> After bleeding, there was enough space to spin without rubbing (<0.5mm). After pumping the lever, brakes rub all the way around (pictured).
> (uncropped photo). These are IIIPRO brakes with the Sensah HRD groupset. I’ve tried pushing the pistons back in, letting some oil out, rebleeding. No dice.
What can I do to get more space between the pads and the disc when I release the lever? I can make the space, but it always disappears after I squeeze the lever once or twice.
Both my front and rear brake are like this, so I figure it’s not a defective part–it’s a defective user.
stranger_trails on
If it was Sram I was going to suggest a calliper rebuild but no idea with this.
Maybe open the bleed port when pushing the pistons back out to reset the pads – would solve the issue if there’s too much oil in the system. If that doesn’t do it then I have no idea having never heard of this brake let alone worked on it before.
MariachiArchery on
Are you using bleed blocks? When you bleed the brakes, are you pumping the lever with the pistons fully seated into the caliper with the pads removed?
Generally, bleed the brakes with blocks in place. Then, insert the pads, and place a pad spacer between the brake pads. Then, ‘set’ the spacing with that pad spacer. Remove pad spacer, insert wheel, pull brakes.
Is this the procedure you are following?
Edit: To my eye, your caliper is not sitting square on your frame. It is not perpendicular to your axel. That will tend to cause your pads to rub on your rotor. Your caliper might be working as intended, but if the rotor is sitting crooked in the caliper, rubbing is usually a symptom.
Automatic_Regular523 on
If this were an older setup I would say to push the pistons partway out, clean them,use the brake fluid to oil them, then push them all the way back flush.
It may be because you have a brand new rotor and brand new pads that your spacing is so minimal. I do see a little room on one side. Try to even it out manually with the caliper and bed everything in. Go for a ride and see if it fixed itself.
ImASadPandaz on
My bike did this and the brake hose was kinked.
Fit-Bookkeeper9775 on
Sound’s like there is still Air in the System. Would remove tha Caliper from the Frame while bleeding on Shimano you get the best results if the hose points up vertical
6 Comments
Duplicating the captions here:
> After bleeding, there was enough space to spin without rubbing (<0.5mm). After pumping the lever, brakes rub all the way around (pictured).
> (uncropped photo). These are IIIPRO brakes with the Sensah HRD groupset. I’ve tried pushing the pistons back in, letting some oil out, rebleeding. No dice.
What can I do to get more space between the pads and the disc when I release the lever? I can make the space, but it always disappears after I squeeze the lever once or twice.
Both my front and rear brake are like this, so I figure it’s not a defective part–it’s a defective user.
If it was Sram I was going to suggest a calliper rebuild but no idea with this.
Maybe open the bleed port when pushing the pistons back out to reset the pads – would solve the issue if there’s too much oil in the system. If that doesn’t do it then I have no idea having never heard of this brake let alone worked on it before.
Are you using bleed blocks? When you bleed the brakes, are you pumping the lever with the pistons fully seated into the caliper with the pads removed?
Generally, bleed the brakes with blocks in place. Then, insert the pads, and place a pad spacer between the brake pads. Then, ‘set’ the spacing with that pad spacer. Remove pad spacer, insert wheel, pull brakes.
Is this the procedure you are following?
Edit: To my eye, your caliper is not sitting square on your frame. It is not perpendicular to your axel. That will tend to cause your pads to rub on your rotor. Your caliper might be working as intended, but if the rotor is sitting crooked in the caliper, rubbing is usually a symptom.
If this were an older setup I would say to push the pistons partway out, clean them,use the brake fluid to oil them, then push them all the way back flush.
It may be because you have a brand new rotor and brand new pads that your spacing is so minimal. I do see a little room on one side. Try to even it out manually with the caliper and bed everything in. Go for a ride and see if it fixed itself.
My bike did this and the brake hose was kinked.
Sound’s like there is still Air in the System. Would remove tha Caliper from the Frame while bleeding on Shimano you get the best results if the hose points up vertical