Use a QR skewer or other long bolt through the tool and the hub to make sure the tool cannot wiggle out while you’re cranking on it. The idea is to have the skewer just slightly loose so it doesn’t prevent unscrewing the lockring, but not so loose that the tool can come out.
bikeguru76 on
I’ve seen this a few times. Ditch the park tool and get either an Abbey socket crombie or a Rockshox top cap/cassette tool. I have both. Both have seen shop use and used with impacts. FWIW, I also ditched the chain whip in favor of a Pedro’s Vice Whip years ago. I’ll never go back. I have version 2 now.
crazmexican2 on
Guys. Its a sram cassette, you can just lift it off he wheel. You don’t need a tool
Tvr-Bar2n9 on
Ugh, I feel the pain. Definitely better tools as others have said, but at the same time I have seen those cassettes shred on the cassette side. Best case scenarios were the customer had to get a new cassette and free hub body.
Lube your threads and remove your cassettes regularly people!!
daeatenone on
The tool probably worked it’s way sideways while you were applying force. That tool sucks, it’s difficult to keep it fully inserted into the lock ring while applying any amount of force. I switched to a 3/8” drive socket style tool with a breaker bar which makes assembling and disassembling the cassette so much easier.
BavardR on
I have this same tool and snapped it trying to get a casette off a friend’s bike that a bike shop guy way over tightened. I repaired the casette whip with a push through pin for a chain and also bought some casette pliers from feedback sports which seem to get better grip. Also park tools will probably warranty it if you don’t want to bother fixing it yourself
firebox40dash5 on
Happens… I have one of the Wolf Tooth “pack tool” ones I use, cuz it has the hex drive & larger ID that allows it to work on more thru-axle endcaps (on both cassette & centerlock sides)
I think I’m on at least my 3rd one of them, that helpful larger ID also means a thinner tool wall.
*If* you can pull your endcap with the cassette (or rotor, for centerlock) attached, you can use one of the older QR style tools, which IME are close to bulletproof. But that doesn’t help if the endcap can’t be removed & the tool won’t fit over it. Well, OK, i guess it does help the tool longevity, hard to break it when you can’t use it. 😂
rv1n on
I splurged and got the tool with the handle attached, more of a shop tool but I’ve not had a problem loosening or tightening lockrings since
9 Comments
That can happen.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/form/warranty
Ask politely for a free replacement.
Use a QR skewer or other long bolt through the tool and the hub to make sure the tool cannot wiggle out while you’re cranking on it. The idea is to have the skewer just slightly loose so it doesn’t prevent unscrewing the lockring, but not so loose that the tool can come out.
I’ve seen this a few times. Ditch the park tool and get either an Abbey socket crombie or a Rockshox top cap/cassette tool. I have both. Both have seen shop use and used with impacts. FWIW, I also ditched the chain whip in favor of a Pedro’s Vice Whip years ago. I’ll never go back. I have version 2 now.
Guys. Its a sram cassette, you can just lift it off he wheel. You don’t need a tool
Ugh, I feel the pain. Definitely better tools as others have said, but at the same time I have seen those cassettes shred on the cassette side. Best case scenarios were the customer had to get a new cassette and free hub body.
Lube your threads and remove your cassettes regularly people!!
The tool probably worked it’s way sideways while you were applying force. That tool sucks, it’s difficult to keep it fully inserted into the lock ring while applying any amount of force. I switched to a 3/8” drive socket style tool with a breaker bar which makes assembling and disassembling the cassette so much easier.
I have this same tool and snapped it trying to get a casette off a friend’s bike that a bike shop guy way over tightened. I repaired the casette whip with a push through pin for a chain and also bought some casette pliers from feedback sports which seem to get better grip. Also park tools will probably warranty it if you don’t want to bother fixing it yourself
Happens… I have one of the Wolf Tooth “pack tool” ones I use, cuz it has the hex drive & larger ID that allows it to work on more thru-axle endcaps (on both cassette & centerlock sides)
I think I’m on at least my 3rd one of them, that helpful larger ID also means a thinner tool wall.
*If* you can pull your endcap with the cassette (or rotor, for centerlock) attached, you can use one of the older QR style tools, which IME are close to bulletproof. But that doesn’t help if the endcap can’t be removed & the tool won’t fit over it. Well, OK, i guess it does help the tool longevity, hard to break it when you can’t use it. 😂
I splurged and got the tool with the handle attached, more of a shop tool but I’ve not had a problem loosening or tightening lockrings since