Welcome to part 2 of the abandoned Aprilia RSV 1000 that fires & runs for the first time in 8 years!

0:00 – Recap & introduction

1:52 – Stripping down the injector housing

12:20 – Fuel tank strip down

17:27 – Exhaust baffle removal

18:37 – Clutch bleed/ repair

20:10 – Rear brake bleed/ repair

BeMoto – Specialist motorcycle insurance

https://www.bemoto.uk

Pirelli Tyres

https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-gb/motorcycle/homepage

Share.

33 Comments

  1. I assume that you know that there is a choke on the left hand handle . Besides that, the Aprilia is sensitive on "drowning" evey time you put the fuel pump at work without running the engine

  2. perhaps it would have been better if you had cleaned it first ,and a top tip never fill up brake or clutch fluid without covering up the clocks ,if you get one drop of that fulid on the clock face it will put loads of little cracks in the face ,,

  3. Brake and clutch fluid is hygroscopic so possibly it’s absorbed enough water and then been evaporated when there’s been hot day?

  4. Just about to do the same with my 2001 SL1000 Falco that’s been off the road for considerably longer, but much better stored. These videos have been a great source of information and encouragement that it might not be too bad a job to get it running and roadworthy. Liked & subscribed!

  5. Be aware that your clutch retaining bolt is loose, it shouldn't rotate when you pull the clutch in. Also, change the clutch slave for an Oberon one, as other recommended. The OEM one tends to wear out and leak constantly. Check the oil level only as stated in the manual, dry sump systems are really great, but the oil level is a bit tricky, it should only be checked with a warm engine, or you'll get a false reading, as when cold it's usual to have the oil under the Min level. Also the reg/rec wires tend to melt at the plug, especially the 3 ones coming from the stator, so check their state before riding it. Also the grounding on the electrical side can cause issues with the charging/starting/electrical so maybe it would be a good idea to check the grounding wires.
    I have mostly the same engine on my '04 Caponord and it's just wonderful

  6. Before you ride it's worth checking dog bone and swingarm bearings if moisture has got in from standing they will need changing to avoid mishaps AP do a upgrade just done mine and its change the whole feel of it GREAT VIDS bud keep them coming 👍

  7. know these well

    Clutch-slave is leaking. Known fault. Back then every one was replacing the slave with after market ones with more seals. In N america it was evo and across the pond Oberon….also the fluid will go black right quick. Not an issue.

    Charging curcuit…you want a robust battery. Failed starts have been known to break the sprag clutch in the starter. Look up battery mod. Also always start with the fast idle…..it's a grumpy motor.

    Ckeck the one way valve on the line from the clutch pack. It makes the vacuum slipper work. They all fail. If you can blow in both directions the slipper will not work.

    The engines are stout in these. Little chance anything is wrong in there.

  8. You should've unbolteded the fuel-pump/filter from the very start!!! At that point,that would've saved You a lot of time draining down your battery and putting excessive wear on your starter motor. As it was clearly shown,when You removed the fuel-pump,the hose to the filter,wasn't even CONNECTED!!! Lol. So when it'd fire for a second or two,all it was doing,was burning up the fuel that got caught in that open fuel-filter hose and was sending fuel to the injectors via "vacuum"!!! Quite a learning experience,eh? : >)

  9. Great job on reviving that classic. I wouldve bombed it with bug killer before washing. I was hoping you would keep original paint and clear coat the tank as reminder of its survivor status.

Leave A Reply