I'm wanting to know what the best back rack would be for this model, and I'm also wondering what size I'd need to convert it to a single front speed and to change the stem and headset to a regular mtb stem and some horned bars. Now I have mostly all the gear and everything is ultralight and packs down small from backpacking so I feel as if I'd have all the space I'd need between the basket, back rack and potential a frame bag one a seat pack if I can fit it. Now before I get crap for my seat like I did for my last post, these photos are almost a year old from when I got the bike, I had only ever rode Dirtjumpers and bmx so I just didn't understand the use of a raised seat. But after my last post trust me I do now, lol.
by sshunned
6 Comments
I got the same exact bike but 18 inch frame… Honestly your size would probably fit better. Rock on.Â
I’d just get Brooks B17, a back swooping handlebar, and rack to put panniers.
Personally, I’d keep the gearing as it is. It would provide you with more range.
I have done multiple long rides on my 93’ gt outpost, it’s a wonderful geometry for bikepacking.
everybody recommends Tubus. They should have a good rack for 26 inch wheels for you. Old Man Mountain is good.
Blackburn I think also has a rear rack that looks pretty good on your bike
which one to get depends on if you want to run panniers and how they attach to the rack or a basket or bags lashed to the sides, waterbottles down low etc.
So, to break it down:
>what the best back rack would be for this model,
There’s very little difference in quality between racks. You can spend as much or as little as you want, and so long as it can be mounted to your bike & is rated for the load you intend to put on it you’ll be OK. You’ve got all the mounts you could ever want on there, so just get anything.
>and I’m also wondering what size I’d need to convert it to a single front speed
You don’t need to do that unless you have a compelling reason to. It would require a complete new drivetrain to do it properly without losing range. In your case I would keep what you have.
> and to change the stem and headset to a regular mtb stem
I assume you mean threadless? A threadless adapter and a threadless stem will work fine. That’s another thing that isn’t strictly necessary, but it will make it far easier to adjust your fit.
>and some horned bars.
You can attach bar ends to what you have. It was a commonly done thing back in the day, they’re very cheap.
>Now I have mostly all the gear
What gear exactly? Panniers for the rack you don’t have? That’s going to be a big one. Think about how many you need, how much waterproofing you require, that sort of thing. Ortlieb is the gold standard for waterproofing but they’re more expensive than other panniers, and you may be OK with only a moderate amount of waterproofing.
>between the basket, back rack and potential a frame bag one a seat pack if I can fit it
People really go wild for the front rack & basket stuff in this sub but there’s a good reason rear loading is the world standard. Only the French ever preferred front loading, and they had to adjust the whole design of the bike’s front end around it to get it to handle properly. If you’re going to use a basket you should use it for bulky and low-density things like a sleeping bag or a jacket and leave denser, heavier things like tents and other supplies for the rear.
Large seat packs are primarily of use to people who choose to go without a rear rack. In your case a racktop bag would offer more space. They’re pretty unfashionable now, so you can get good ones for way cheaper than you can a seat pack.
Second the recommendation of swept-back handlebars, much more comfortable than flat bars. But if by “horned” bars you mean drop bars (like road/gravel style), don’t bother – the shifters and brake levers aren’t compatible and you’ll spend more than it’s worth to do it. I’d also add that keeping the front basket is a good idea, lots of people like them, but I would consider doing one of two things: 1. install a front rack (e.g. Blackburn) and zip-tie the basket to it, or 2. lowering the basket by rotating the bar clamps to vertical (the lowest the basket can go), cutting the struts down, and drilling new mounting holes. I recommend 1 because then your basket is independent of stem height/bar configuration. Then get a cute basket net and have all your lighter-weight stuff on hand in front of you!