Noob here. My problems are the following:

  1. the instructions say to regulate them so that the pads are ~1-2 mm from the rims.

But this is factually impossible: they self center on their own in such a way that basically only one of the two pads moves. It is impossible, or I don't understand how, to properly regulate their distance from the rim.

2) the front brakes don't have enough "bite".

I changed the pads less than 1 month ago suspecting I might've contaminated the brakes while working on my bike (i'm my own mechanic, and I _might've_ made a mess while refilling the oil 🙁 but at least I can say with absolute certainty that the brakes are 100% filled with good quality oil )

my wheels aren't perfectly new either but they aren't trash either, they just wobble very very slightly left to right when I pedal. So I have to use the t25 adjustment screw at the levers in order to make it so that the closest brake of the two doesn't rub against the rim, but that makes it so that when I brake I have to bottom out the levers, and I'm losing out on a lot of brake "bite".

If I take the brake boosters off I can access a t25 screw that unlinks the pads + the hydraulic hoses from the structure that holds the brake to the bike frame. But I can't find a sweetspot where I can get the wheel to rotste freely and also have enough brake "bite", and stopping power is definitely lower than new, even if I can see that the "pushing force" against my thumbs is definitely high enough to stop.

This is my everything bike. I enjoy learning. It has brought me across continents. I've definitely surpassed 60km/h on this bike. I've crashed and survived. I've done mountain descents. But I still don't truly understand these breaks.

Help me understand Magura Rim Brakes (hs11)
byu/TheHooligan95 inbikewrench



by TheHooligan95

7 Comments

  1. Boiiiiiiiiiiiiil on

    I am no hydraulic brakes expert but I dont think you are supposed to press the levers if there is no wheel / rotor present

  2. vorne3hinten2 on

    One piston is fucked.
    And they rae not self centering when setup properly.

  3. bikefidelity on

    If this is your ‘1-2mm’-setup, you have to mount the whole caliper narrower to the rims.With new pads the pistons should stay fully retracted. The screws on your lever should be fully retracted too. They should just compensate upcoming wear (like barrel adjusters on mechanical brakes).

  4. The left piston use a lubrication spray or something and brake and push it back in keep repeating this and it will come lose ,but begin with the basics and bleed your brake if this is done properly,the pistons wil go back much easier.when you apply the brake a little bit the pistons have to move directly,then the system is bled perfectly.

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