Échappées belles – Noël à Vienne

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Échappées belles – Noël à Vienne 13 décembre 2025

L’Autriche, véritable joyau niché au coeur de l’Europe, est un mélange sophistiqué de richesse historique et de modernité. Chaque année, des millions de touristes partent sur les traces de Sissi, Mozart ou Schubert, célèbres figures nationales. Le pays prend très au sérieux sa responsabilité en matière de conservation, avec des politiques rigoureuses pour la préservation des sites du patrimoine mondial et des monuments historiques. Vienne et Salzbourg, toutes les deux classées à l’Unesco, en sont de parfaits exemples. L’Autriche ne refuse pas pour autant la modernité ; son architecture évolue et ses grandes villes vibrent au rythme d’une vie nocturne et artistique intense.

… Church bells. "Silent Night," jazz version. … Hot hooves pound the ground. … -Hello. Are you Marc? -Marco. Pleased to meet you and welcome to our beautiful city of Vienna. -I'm truly delighted to be in this magnificent imperial capital. -I have a little surprise for you. This is how we like to welcome our guests in Vienna. I invite you to come aboard and enjoy this VIP ride. -Wow, that's an imperial welcome! Fantastic. It's comfortable, too. -We are the one and only restaurant on wheels in Vienna. All the food comes from one of the oldest establishments in the city. Let's go. -With pleasure. "Jingle Bells," jazz version. … There are some absolutely stunning building facades. There's a very distinctive architecture here. -Most of the buildings we see during the ride date from the 17th to the 19th centuries. -Wow. … You can just hear the horses' hooves on the ground. It really feels like stepping back a few centuries. -In front of us, you can admire the Imperial Palace. -Wow! -It was the Habsburg family's winter palace. The entire palace has 2,600 rooms. -One lifetime isn't enough to change rooms every night. -Tell me, what are your plans during your stay in Vienna? -I really want to experience the atmosphere of Vienna during this festive season, visit exceptional places, and above all, go behind the scenes and explore the secret spots. Here in Vienna, and then in Salzburg as well. -Christmas is the perfect time to discover the city, specially decorated, with all its Christmas markets. -Then let's go to the end-of-year festivities in Vienna! What could possibly happen… ? -In the Austrian capital, Christmas is also called "Krampus." -Krampus punishes naughty children , and Saint Nicholas rewards those who have been good. -And Jérôme Pitorin was very good. -The view is absolutely exceptional. -On the shores of the lake, you can see the turquoise waters. It looks like the Caribbean… -Everything is ready for a getaway… -Of course, they're not reindeer , but they could easily replace them to pull Santa's sleigh. -Very refreshing. -With these artificial waterfalls, we can really recreate high-altitude conditions. -And to regain my strength… -Waiter, I'll have a café crème with a chocolate tart and whipped cream. -I'd love to pop in and say hello to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. -I'll introduce you to him. Or at least, his house. -Oh, oh! -You just have to be a little greedy. -I'd like to buy two Mozart balls. -With pleasure. -Yum. -Hello, miss. -Hello, sir. -Walking into this café is like taking a trip back in time to the era of the monarchy. -If you like, you can blow out a Christmas ornament. -A magical Christmas in Vienna. -WELCOME IN WIEN! -Katia! -Hello, Jerome. Welcome to Vienna. -Thank you. Very happy to meet you, to meet this star, this diva, this singer who is so famous here. -I've prepared lots of things. We'll go to the opera house in a bit, but first, look at the golden statue of Johann Strauss! -Ah yes. -A true Viennese, the king of the waltz, who is celebrating his 200th birthday. Happy birthday, Johann! -He doesn't look it. We agree? -That's right. -He's the one who kind of invented this Viennese waltz style? -Exactly. In Vienna, from high school onwards, between the sophomore and senior years, people learn to waltz. At midnight, on New Year's Eve, on every radio station, every television station, whether you're in a nightclub Or in the town hall square, there's a waltz for 2 minutes. The whole town is waltzing. … -I like these facades, these old shops. 1720! -Yes. This shop is quite famous here. It sells fabrics. Next to it, you see "kuk": these are shops, bakeries, pastry shops that already existed during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The first K is for the Empire, "kaiserlich," the "u" is for "et," and the second K is for the Kingdom of Hungary, "koeniglich." -How did you come to Vienna? What's your life story? -I came to Vienna at 5 years old, with my parents. I grew up here until my university days. I started in Vienna and finished my studies in Graz, in southern Austria. -Studies in music, in singing? -Singing, yes. -Here we are at the famous Schönbrunn Palace . -I'm eager to see this palace, which is part of Austrian history, of course, but also a little bit of history for many generations of French people. -Yes, the famous film "Sissi" with Romy Schneider, it's quite legendary. -We won't be alone visiting it, though. -Officially, the palace opens in 30-40 minutes, so we'll have a little time to ourselves. -Can we visit it beforehand? -We will. -Oh dear, I'm definitely not with just anyone. (Laughs) -Here's the Grand Gallery. -Superb! It's beautiful, these chandeliers, this gilding… -We had two large candelabras with 70 candles each, plus all these. -It was quite a feat to light them, especially. "Emperor Waltz," Johann Strauss. … I imagine that with a parquet floor like this, there must have been thousands of hours of waltzing here. -Do you want to waltz? … -The Viennese waltz is super fast! -It's very fast. -Oh yeah, so you couldn't drink too much at the cocktail party or it would end badly. Wow! My head is spinning. Thank you very much. -Well done. Now, I'm going to show you a super secret place. -Oh… Incredible! -It's a room that was commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa from her favorite artist, Wenzel Bergl. The idea was something very exotic with lots of animals, flowers, fruit… -Clearly! -Many that the artist himself had never seen. -Yes, because this isn't Viennese vegetation. -Not really! The painter had never seen a monkey, for example. -It looks like a devil, it's funny. The dog is from that era because it has a perm like the hairstyles of the time. -This artist notably painted for Maria Theresa's daughter , who had smallpox and was completely disfigured. She could no longer really go out in public. It was to give her the illusion of being outside. It's beautiful. -It's a beautiful intention, in any case. -The first place I was on stage was the Schönbrunn Palace Theatre. If you like, I'll show you. -Of course. -Shall we go? … -They're performing, they're rehearsing. … The conductor is giving directions. … Do you remember when you first wanted to sing? -According to my mother, I was 3 years old, the first time I said I wanted to be an opera singer. -3 years old? -Yes. We had a VHS tape of the opera film "Carmen," and it fascinated me. It remained my dream. -At what age did you start taking lessons? -I was 6 years old the first time I joined the Schubert Boys' Choir. At 16, I got my baccalaureate and started university. Here. … It's very dramatic, "I started at university"… Papam! -That's a great rhythm. Did your parents realize you had a gift? -I was really lucky. From the very beginning, my parents were incredibly supportive. I really grew up thinking I was the best singer in the world. They'd look at me with wide eyes, "our daughter, the singer." Whenever there were guests, it was always, "Go on, sing something for everyone." -Anyway, it's wonderful to pursue your dreams and never give up. It's also wonderful when your parents and those around you encourage you. -Absolutely. -And then it gives us talents like you. It's fantastic. Happy hubbub. … -We can start with "Let it Snow." … -At the foot of the majestic 30-meter-high Christmas tree, every winter, the town hall square dons its festive attire. The Christmas spirit takes over Vienna. -This is the biggest and most famous Christmas market in the city. There are so many people here to listen to us. Tonight, it's definitely the biggest stage in Vienna. … -Like in a Christmas tale, the brass band was formed 10 years ago at one of these Advent markets. -For us, there's no proper Christmas without music. Whether it's carols or brass bands, it brings joy and pleasure. -Guided by the aroma of mulled wine and the intoxicating scent of gingerbread, the aisles of the capital's oldest market invite you on an enchanting journey where magic sometimes hides in childhood memories. -Even today, I remember the moment my grandmother gave me a snow globe. It's a gift you never forget. To follow the story of this curious globe that has fascinated generations of Viennese since its creation in 1900, you have to step inside the workshop—not of Santa Claus, but of Sabine Perzy, the fourth generation of elves to handcraft snow globes. "I really have to be careful with how I paint its mouth and eyes. Depending on what I draw, its face can completely change. It can look a little angry or very happy. In this way, each snow globe is truly unique." Every year, the factory produces 300,000 snow globes, which are painted, assembled, and then shaken to specifically control the snowfall. " We really strive to make the snow as realistic as possible, so that the flakes fall very slowly and last a long time. Otherwise, it's not like when it snows in real life. How do we achieve this?" That's a family secret passed down from generation to generation , and we're quite proud of it because no one has managed to imitate us. – From snow to ice, it's just a small step that Viennese people master more or less well. But for those who know which way to turn, every Sunday there's a date not to be missed. The first tunes are heard… It's time for the waltz. Overture to "Die Fledermaus," J. Strauss. … – Vienna is like this when the season of balls and waltzes begins . – Kings of the waltz since this dance was popularized in the 19th century, Viennese people practice it everywhere and in all weather. As if for a ball, the figure skaters have donned their finest Sunday best. – For me, it's truly a tradition. I've been dancing on the ice for over 50 years. – The men ask the lady if she would like to dance. Here at the ice rink, there's always a lady who wants to dance. … -Despite the harsh winters in Austria, to warm their hearts at Christmas, Viennese people like Finding yourself outside. Moored in the Danube Canal, in the heart of the capital, at nightfall, the Badeschiff resembles "The Love Boat." A mix of curling and pétanque on the upper decks… And below, Vienna's only ice-water pool. " Inside the pool, the water is 6 degrees Celsius. Outside, it must be 3 or 4 degrees. There's not too much difference, it's perfect. Come on, the first person can join me. It's important to breathe properly, to stay calm. You'll breathe through your nose and with your diaphragm, too." She exhales. " It's very good for strengthening the immune system, but also the heart." "I'm keeping my hat on because most of the body's heat escapes through the head. " "It feels like a thousand pricks all over your skin. It's really freezing." "But afterwards, you feel like a wave of warmth." It's a relief and it feels really good to push yourself. -After reinvigorating themselves and already anticipating their New Year's resolutions, these courageous Viennese are finally ready to dive into the deep end of the Christmas festivities. -We've arrived at the Volksoper. -"Volk" means "people," right? -Yes, so "the people's opera." -I see you're coordinated with your workplace. That's your briefcase. Laughs. -Careful, backstage pass. -Wow! Oh yeah… -Go ahead. -Ah yes, it's a different atmosphere than the Castle Theatre. -It's much simpler. It's kind of the idea that the people's opera is really for the people, for ordinary folks. -Popular in the sense of affordable , but also accessible in terms of what's performed? -Exactly. Many pieces are translated into German because often, people are a little afraid they won't understand opera. Coming to a theater that translates into their language helps. We're going to the rehearsal room, it's this way. -I'll follow you. She hums. -HALLO! -I'm going to put on my rehearsal costume. -You have a performance costume? -Exactly. For Prince Orlofsky, you need a real prince's costume. -The prince… Is that a prince's outfit? -It's his dressing gown. The Volksoper has been performing this production for about 40 years, and in all that time, they've had two costumes. A small version and a large one. So that means all the great voices of the Volksoper have worn this costume. I grew up in the audience, going to see it on December 31st… -And seeing that coat worn? -There you go. -I'm getting chills. It's amazing. -And now… -That must be very moving for you. -Yes, very. … -That's good, thank you. Despite all his money, all the parties the prince throws, nothing can make him laugh. But he wants his guests to have fun instead of him. It would be good if we emphasized that a bit more. … -Bravo! Incredible. I love it. I'm very impressed by your talent. Well, your talents. How would you describe Katia's voice, Elisabeth? -What's interesting about Katia's voice is the color it brings. Whether it's Prince Orlofsky or Carmen, she brings this tension, this depth, this color, this timbre that makes them truly moving, and that enriches the roles incredibly. -Wow… -Oh dear, the compliments… For me, it's a worthwhile fight, trying to pass on this love for this art that I have to as many people as possible. So, it also means fighting against all the problems, whether it's racism in opera, sexism in various institutions… I just wish the world were a little bit more beautiful. Music is the easiest way to do it. -With your temperament, you don't hesitate, if I may use that expression, to speak your mind, do you? … Laughter. Birds singing. -We're at Robert Comploj's workshop. -He's a glass artist. -Yes. -Wow, what he does is original. -It looks like sculpted metal. -Yes. Is he the one working? -Yes. Hi, Robert. -Hello, Katia. You can take your clothes off. -It's nice and warm at your place. -Put them over there. -This place is lovely . -It's really beautiful. -What's that, Robert? -I'm making a Christmas ornament. I'm using tiny pieces of colored glass. It's going to be a mauve ornament. I'm going to use a very old mold that comes from Murano in Venice. It's over 500 years old. -It's amazing… To bring an object to life like that. It's beautiful, isn't it? -Magnificent! -What's fascinating is that you manage to make it a truly perfect sphere. -Just by blowing, yes. It's difficult. Like singing! Laughter. It's like honey. -Wow! -The magic of Christmas. -BRAVO! -Robert, what's your background? How did you get into glassblowing? -I was a carpenter, I worked with wood , and 20 years ago, I learned the craft of glassblowing. It's an amazing material! That's how it started. I traveled around the world for 10 years, and now I have my own workshop. If you'd like, you can blow a Christmas ornament! -Really? -An opera singer will undoubtedly do something XXL with the breath she has. -It's like blowing up a balloon. Blow. A little more. Almost. Careful, stop. Look. -I feel like I've given it my all and there's just a tiny little ball. -Now, you blow gently, very gently. Good, good. Stop. Very pretty. Look! -It's beautiful. -How much does a ball like that cost commercially? How much are you selling it for? -Since Katia blew it, 500,000 euros. … Truly unique! -We're in Vienna's largest park , called the Prater, the lungs of Vienna. -There are no cars here, it's reserved for cyclists, walkers, joggers… -Yes. This is where I learned to ride a bike. -And have you fallen "prater," from time to time or not? Katia bursts out laughing. No, never? You mustn't get hurt, either. "That's the Ferris wheel in Prater. It's funny because it was built in the exact same year as the Volksoper opera house. It was for Franz Joseph's 50th year in power. You see, since 1897!" "Oh, is it just us? You're privatizing everything, then? … Wow, wow, wow. Even just the wheel is spectacular. It's a good idea, letting me see your city from so high up, too. " "What are your dreams, Katia?" "My biggest dream, of course, is to go back to France, to sing in France and, above all, one day, to sing in Guadeloupe. That would be…" "Is that where you're from? " "Yes. That would truly be a big dream for me." "Yeah? Your eyes are sparkling!" Katia laughs heartily. -Thank you for sharing your city, your favorite places, your job, and your world with me. It was very interesting. So thank you. Hugs and kisses. -It's my pleasure! -And I wish you all the best. -Thank you very much. Tinkerbell. Welcome, ladies and gentlemen, to Schönbrunn Palace. Together , we'll be making the famous apple strudel, which is over 300 years old. In the kitchens of Austria's most famous palace, pastry-making takes center stage. Four times a day, Michael juggles ingredients to reveal the secrets of this Viennese classic. Every grandmother, every mother used to make strudels at home. It reminds us of those aromas of raisins and cinnamon. They're sweet, comforting flavors. And now, the whole world enjoys them. Waltz. To savor this sweet waltz, in Vienna, cafés sometimes resemble grand ballrooms. Located in a palace, Café Gerstner likes to pull out all the stops. In 1873, 26 years after its founding, the confectioner became the official supplier to the Austrian Imperial Court. "These are candied violets, Empress Sissi's favorite sweets. Stepping into this café is like taking a trip back in time to the era of the monarchy. " Conversations intertwine. " Here, for example, is one of Emperor Franz Joseph's favorite cakes. On top, there are biscuits with a jelly layer covering a base of buttercream and chocolate. The cake really has to be beautiful, almost geometric, and this one is very well done. Bravo. " "Whether it's laden with gold or more intimate, in Vienna, the café is a gastronomic institution. And with 2,400 counters, there's something for everyone. On the Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard that encircles the historic center, Café Schwarzenberg is the oldest. Since 1861, sitting down at a café has been a ritual with its own set of rules." Conversations intertwine. "Waiter?" "Yes, sir?" "I'll have a café crème with a chocolate tart and whipped cream. " "Noted. " … "It's the most popular drink in Viennese cafés. After 1 p.m., you can treat yourself to a pastry with it." Comfortably settled, the coffee break stretches on. This is how, from the 19th century onwards, cafés became second homes for the cream of the crop of artists and intellectuals of the time. On these banquettes, Josef Hoffmann, the Viennese architect, might have crossed paths with Freud, Strauss, or even the painter Gustav Klimt. "There's a saying that goes, 'The customer sleeps at home but lives at the café.' Back then, apartments were rarely heated. There wasn't the quality of tap water we have today. Even the postman knew it was easier to deliver the mail to the café!" -With its timeless atmosphere, even today, in a Viennese café, customers can stay seated for hours ordering just one coffee. -I have my newspapers next to me, I can work comfortably. I come here every two days. It's a bit like home. -An extension of the living room where you still have to coexist with the ballet of waiters, known for their exacting standards but also their somewhat grumpy nature. -Make sure the cakes are presented properly. Here, the milk must always stay warm. Hey, you, take this to the kitchen! -At Café Diglas, another Viennese institution, Anton has been serving coffee for 25 years. Today, he's in charge of training the younger generation, teaching them the menu of about fifteen different coffees and passing on this rather understated charm. -It's a bit of a cliché that's stuck to us. I don't know if we're complainers, but sometimes we can be very direct and outspoken, which you don't find in the United States or Asia. We expect them to be a little grumpy! It sounds strange, but that's also what we like about the café! The customer bursts out laughing. "More than just a drink or a pastry, the cafés offer a slice of Viennese life, a delicious, sweet moment that tastes like happiness." Cheerful atmosphere. Beep. Train conductor's announcement. … "Jerome! Finally! " "How are you?" "Hi. It's a pleasure." "Nice to meet you. I've seen lots of photos of you doing your job as a puppeteer, which I'm eager for you to show me. " "Well, the city, of course, and especially this very special profession, and then the theater, which is one of a kind." "I'd like to stop by and say hello to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It would be a shame not to." "Of course, I'll introduce you to him, or at least his house! " "Sounds good." "Come on, let's go! It's this way. The winter period before the holidays is very popular, very sought-after." People come here… -Do you think the enthusiasm for Christmas, for Advent, is as strong as in Vienna? -Just as strong, if not stronger, I'd say. -Oh really? -Yes, people are really looking for something authentic in the setting… You see the view… The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are so many churches in Salzburg. It's not for nothing that the city is called the Rome of the North, the Rome of the Alps. Between the two banks, there are at least twenty churches of all sizes. -What are we crossing here? -The Salzach. -The word "salt" is in the river's name. -"Salz." -That's it. Because upstream, there are large salt mines, so the city derived its wealth from them. Here, it was a kind of tollbooth: they collected the salt from the boats. -Very good. The city takes its name from the river, I imagine. -I think so too. -Do you dance the "Salzach" a little? -Three hours a week! (Laughter) -Well, I'm looking forward to visiting the old town. Excuse me, ma'am. -Let's go! -This street is charming, isn't it? -We're arriving at Getreidegasse. -It's very typical! -It's a bit like our Salzburg Champs-Élysées… -Without cars! -Yes, that's great. Of course, you have the big luxury brands and then, next to them, clothing shops that are still traditional: leather trousers, Lederhosen, Dirndls for women… People wear this traditional costume regularly. But above all, you have to notice the signs on either side of Getreidegasse . -Wrought iron, I see, yes. That's very beautiful. "It also dates back to medieval times, when most people were illiterate. So, quite simply, above the tailor's shop, there was a pair of scissors…" "A symbol." " To signify who does what here. We're in the very heart of the place. What are you reading there? " Jérôme is trying hard to pronounce what he's reading. "I took German as my first language, as you can hear, of course!" "Almost! Mozart's Birthplace… Mozart was born here." "Is this his house? " "Yes." "Okay. I'd like to make a very personal observation. Under Mozart's house, there's a convenience store, not an operetta, which is rather unsettling! " "It's a convenience store, but at least it's made of gold." "Yes, the sign is gold, if you like… It could be a sacred place, you see?" It's, I imagine, one of the most visited in the city. Anyway, moving on. "Eine kleine Nachtmusik," Mozart. -You can't come to Salzburg without trying Mozartkugeln. -Really? It would be sacrilege not to try them? -Absolutely! I'd like to buy two Mozart balls. -Gladly. -And my friend would like to try one. -Here they are. They're pistachio marzipan surrounded by nougat and coated in chocolate. -Thank you. -This feels like an old house. -It's a real Salzburg institution. This famous Mozart ball was created a few years after, I think, 1890… -Okay. The marketing back then was already quite clever. Let's try this. -Shall we try it? I'll pay. -Thank you! -It's on me. -So, in the end, we're leaving with a pair of Mozart balls. It's a bit of a strange concept, but oh well… -Ciao, ciao! The holy grail! -The holy grail? Come on, let's stick with food. -Cheers. -Oh yes… -Yum! It leaves you speechless! -It leaves me speechless, yes, exactly. It's magnificent. Thank you for the discovery. -You're welcome, it's my pleasure. What's interesting is that you see Santa Clauses everywhere in Austria. Santa Claus isn't that popular. He's not a very well-known figure. -He's not necessarily associated with Christmas like in France? -He is, but it's a different character who brings the presents. -Okay. -This character is called the Christkind. If you translate that literally, it's the Christ Child. He's a kind of angel. -He's a bit like a young, childlike Santa Claus, you know. -Yes. -Without a beard, but with wings! -Exactly! -The important thing is that he brings presents. -We're just passing by the dome, the cathedral. -I don't want to say anything silly, but I think I saw Santa Claus, but we're not saying anything… It's not December 24th yet. -He lives at the North Pole… -Yes, but well, maybe he starts his rounds in Austria, we don't know. So there, the view overlooking the city… And then there, the fortifications… Which princes lived here? -Many prince-archbishops have succeeded one another. Each one truly contributed to its development. The fortress has been besieged many times but never conquered. -Ah yes! -A bit like the roof of Salzburg. -Exactly, yes. -And we look at it, it's a bit like a barometer. When I leave for work every morning, I turn around and think: "Ah! It's shrouded in fog." Or: "It's already sunny!" It's a bit like our guiding light. -How long have you lived here? -Twelve or thirteen years. -Okay. How did it come about? Was it an absolute goal to work in this theater? -Absolutely. I saw the Salzburg Puppets when I was fourteen or fifteen, in Paris, when they were on tour, and I immediately thought: "That's where it's happening, nowhere else. I want to be there." -Are you in your element here? -I feel good, I feel like I've found my place. That's beautiful, it brings a lot of peace to life. -Yes. Birds singing. "The Blue Danube," Johann Strauss. … -The Mariandl leaves the Krems dock to head up the valley. It's not the fastest boat , but it's comfortable! -In Austria, a legend says that J. Strauss found the inspiration for his "Blue Danube" during a cruise on the river. … This myth could have been set in the Wachau Valley, an hour from Vienna, where the Danube is even more enchanting. -Since my childhood spent in the region, I've always had this connection with the water. My biggest dream was to become a captain , and for 20 years, I've been living my dream! On the water, I feel like I have the best view of the valley. -As you travel up the Danube, along the 33 km of the valley, the landscape unfolds in an atmosphere of medieval villages and ruined castles. At 312 m high, Martin winds its way through the meanders From the winter forest, in search of the most beautiful views. -There are hundreds of kilometers of hiking trails, so it requires some effort, but it's really worth it. -After a 30-minute climb, Durnstein Castle, built in the mid-12th century, comes into view, or rather, what remains of it. These ruins, against the gray winter sky, evoke a melancholic atmosphere. Enough to give rise to legends. The most famous takes place within these stone walls in 1192. -The story goes that Richard the Lionheart, the King of England, returning from the Crusades, was imprisoned here in Durnstein Castle. To find him, his childhood friend, also a troubadour, set out to find him along the Danube, singing. Upon arriving at the foot of the castle, Richard the Lionheart recognized the voice of his faithful friend. That is how he was freed. A source of romantic legends and heartbreak, the Wachau Valley has always had a very real love affair with wine. On its 1,300 hectares of terraced vineyards, shaped by the Celts and then the Romans, the valley produces some of the world's finest dry white wines. "What wines do you have right now?" " This one's still empty. The cask sounds hollow. And over there, the sound is different. It's full. It's full and dull. This cellar is almost 1,800 years old. It was an important Roman cellar because, at the time, each Roman soldier was entitled to 2 liters of wine per day. To supply the entire battalion, the Romans began cultivating vines throughout the valley." In Austria's oldest winery, wines can mature for 25 years in these enormous wooden casks, given as a gift at the birth of each child. "On this barrel, my first name, Nikolaus, my birthdate, and my astrological sign are carved . I'm a Pisces, and up there is my family name: Saahs. As a child, I often came here to clean it. It's a source of pride!" Along the Danube, the Wachau Valley reveals itself as a land of plenty. When the orchards are dormant in winter, Katharina always keeps a few precious apricots in the freezer, another regional specialty. " I simply coat the apricot. I give it a nice shape. There are over 1,000 varieties of apricots in the world, and the ones we produce here are the best. We eat them every day, whether in jams, juices, or even sparkling wines. On top, I add a little sauce, always apricot." -In his café entirely dedicated to apricots, tasting Marillenknoedels, these sweet dumplings, is an opportunity to bring the family together, all generations included. -Enjoy your meal. Apricots are the rhythm of our family life. They allow us to sit together and savor these moments. -Initially, the men worked in the orchards and the women stayed home to cook and take care of guests. But with the war, the women had to do everything themselves. That's how apricots became a women's business. It's been going on for six generations. -The Wachau Valley, the fruit of a harmonious relationship between water, nature, and its history, is a territory passed down to the calm rhythm of the Danube's waters. -Thank you. -Welcome to the Salzburg Puppet Theatre! -Superb. Right from the entrance, you immediately set the mood, the atmosphere of the theatre with the puppets and all the old posters. That's really great! -We celebrated our 111th anniversary this year. Wow! This must be one of the oldest puppet theaters in the world? Yes. The company is really very old. It was founded by Anton Aicher, who was a sculptor. He offered his family and friends a string puppet show, and the theater grew. This is what it is today. Wow, it's huge! I didn't imagine a performance hall this vast. This used to be a hotel. This is the old ballroom. The famous Austrian ballrooms. They used to dance the waltz here. Now, the audience sits here. Jerome, let me introduce you to our costume workshop. Hello. Jerome. Pleased to meet you. Hello, Marion. What are you working on? We're restoring these puppets. This is a historical puppet from the play "The Tales of Hoffmann." It's Olympia, the main character. The fabrics deteriorate over time , so we simply restore them. We chose one that looks very similar. It's much too light, so we'll have to give it a patina. -Yes, we'll give it a patina, even dye it a little. Very light things like that, we dye them in black tea. -I was also looking at the embroidery work; it's incredible. It's haute couture. -Yes. It's handmade. Everything is redone down to the smallest detail. It's like for a human. -In this troupe, we're not just puppeteers; we also work in the workshops. Marion and I are puppeteers. I have a degree in costume design. There are sculptors, painters, lighting designers. We create the show ourselves from start to finish. -So we can't say Edward Scissorhands, but rather Edward Scissorhands, then? -Indeed, because Edward Scissorhands cuts the strings. -It's best not to! Welcome to the theater's vault. -It's incredible. It's a puppet shop. -There's "The Sound of Music," "The Nutcracker," "The Magic Flute," "Carnival of the Animals," "Snow White," "The Tales of Hoffmann," "A Midsummer Night's Dream"… -With the donkeys, yes. -"Alice in Wonderland"… -It's exceptional. I love it. -A puppet has a minimum of 11 strings. There's one on the back of the T, that's the back. To the left and right of the T, there are the thighs. -Oh, absolutely! -And in front, there's the left hand, the right hand, and a third one to bring the hands together when you need to grab objects. You're going to put your index finger under the T. I'll take another one to do it alongside. This is Juliette. -Very well. Hello, miss. My compliments. -Hello, sir. -Careful, I'm tying knots. -We'll continue. The most important thing is the walking. Don't worry, it's normal; it takes about seven years for a puppeteer to become independent. -Seven years! I have a lot of admiration and respect for your dexterity. Bravo, I applaud you wholeheartedly. Please, my name is Juliette. -Pleased to meet you. -But my heart already belongs to someone else. -Apparently. Opera. … -You, make the gesture of pouting. Turn around. … -It's a ballet between you, your movements… -To convey emotions, it starts from the head, goes to the arms, the hands. You bring all of that down to the puppet. It's not about pulling strings , but about interpreting things. -The characters are an extension of your emotions. It's very beautiful. -Exactly. … … We arrived at the small village of St. Wolfgang, a holiday resort for the emperor and the entire court. The region has also benefited from this tourism boom. We're going up the Schafberg mountain. We're going to take a cogwheel train, the Schafbergbahn, the only one of its kind in the region. He scans his ticket. All aboard, Simone! Well, Jérôme. -You can call me Simone, but I might not always answer because it's not my first name. There's a steep incline. It's really steep. -They built this railway in a year. -When, in the 19th century? -Around 1890. Back then, the whole court would come up to breathe the fresh air. The men walked and the women rode in sedan chairs. -There's an icy wind! Great, look. We have the valley area, green, and the village, the lake. -Stunning. On the shores of the lake, you can see the difference in color. The water is turquoise. It looks like the Caribbean. -Yes… It's a shame the mountains spoil it, isn't that what you're saying? -What's really extraordinary is that it's not far from Salzburg. -Apart from "wow," there's not much more to say. As I got off the train, I saw there was a stationary carriage. Apparently, you can get a hot drink there. I'd be happy to invite you for something hot. If we make it that far! We'll just go for it. -Enjoy! -I love it. It really has the aromas of Christmas. -In Salzburg, when the first Christmas markets open, we always wonder if we'll manage to get the first mulled wine after a show, if we postpone it until the next day… The opening of the Christmas markets is always very important for the city in general, and it's become so for me. -A big thank you for showing me around your adopted city and for introducing me to your incredible work with your company, your troupe. You manage to bring incredible things to life. -This ice wall is 30 meters high. "It's tricky terrain. You really have to stay focused and watch your step." With the snow falling in Tyrol, the climb becomes more perilous. On the tightrope, these cold-weather climbers cling to their goal: in a month, they will take their final exam to become high-mountain guides. "Follow me. Faster!" With these artificial waterfalls, we can really recreate high-altitude conditions, like on a glacier. In a single area, we have all possible configurations: steep paths, flatter ones… It's perfect for training because there's no real risk. There are no avalanches. Conquering the peaks, the cradle of mountaineering in Austria boasts more than a hundred mountains over 3,000 meters high. In the middle of these valleys formed during the Ice Age, the Hohe Tauern National Park has become a haven for wildlife. A world of silence, barely broken by the sound of the park rangers' footsteps in the snow. "We're always watching, our eyes turned skyward , searching for movement. We know the animals see us and watch us as we move." After a few minutes of fruitless approaches, Caroline and Andreas's intuition is correct. In the distance, the mountain seems to be emerging from its hibernation. " Between the trees over there, I saw something move. There are chamois up there on the ridge." " This part of the park is very often swept by the wind. It washes away the snow, so the animals can find food in winter. We still have a lot to learn about what happens in nature, and we can only do that in areas that are still wild and far from humans. Here, we have the opportunity to create real awareness." -While some species prefer to remain hidden during these long, harsh winters, further down the valley, an exotic animal allows itself to be approached for a romantic encounter under a thick blanket of snow. -Llamas don't really like being petted. They're ticklish on their bellies and feet, but they accept it on the neck. -Just a few meters from the still-closed ski lifts, Martin has been raising about twenty llamas for the past five years, training them to be faithful hiking companions adapted to the Tyrolean winter climate. -Llamas originate from Peru. There, they live between 4,000 and 6,000 meters in altitude. It's therefore much colder than here at 1,000 meters. Let's go! -Relieved of the weight of the backpack, the walk through the ski area becomes more peaceful, at the llamas' pace. -This is an animal that loves being outdoors and hiking. It's an ideal walking partner. Llamas can climb very high in the mountains; they have sure footing, just like the chamois or ibex of the region. Appreciated for their gentleness and kindness, llamas have become popular animals over the years . In Austria, there are estimated to be between 7,000 and 8,000 of them. Perhaps this could inspire them to take on another role just a few days before Christmas. Of course, they're not reindeer , but they could easily replace them to pull Santa's sleigh. … Ouch! Jerome laughs. Hello! Hi, Jerome. This is Jacob, whom I train in ranggeln. You told me, "Come join me, I'm doing my sport." I didn't expect to see you practicing this activity. What is this sport? Judo? Ranggeln is a traditional combat sport practiced in the Alpine regions, in Salzburg, Tyrol, South Tyrol, and Bavaria. The Celts created this sport in the Middle Ages , and we practice it outdoors here in Bramberg. -Who wins? How is the winner determined? -You can win a match like in judo, when you throw your opponent with both shoulders on the ground at the same time. It's like an ippon in judo. -So, shoulders on the ground and the match is over. Okay. Whoa… That's a bit of a jolt! -He's a formidable opponent. I've been wrestling since I was 5 or 6 years old. Over the years, I've built up a nice little collection of trophies. I won this one at a European competition in Tenerife in 2008. We were up against the best Celtic wrestling teams. I came in 3rd; it's one of my greatest achievements. -A bronze medal at the European Championships is a great medal, a good ranking. Would you be willing to defend that medal? "It's difficult to fight outside today because normally it takes place on the grass , but there's too much snow." "Actually, you're afraid of me." (Laughs) " Let's get some fresh air. " "Let's get in." "Great. Here we go!" I didn't know this was a ski resort. There are quite a few ski lifts." "This is a large ski resort with beautiful slopes. The forest is my world. I cut down trees, I replant others. It's an environment I love and a way of life that respects our traditions." "Have you ever imagined leaving your mountains to live somewhere else?" "My grandfather and my father were forest rangers here. There's no way I'm leaving all this. " "It makes you want to ski. You have an extraordinary mountain range in Austria, especially in this region, with Tyrol next door." (Sigh of exertion) I'm going to get the softest one. I wanted to ski, but I'm skiing without even realizing it. It feels good. You were right when you said we were going to get some fresh air. I understand why you don't want to leave here. The view is exceptional. You can see for miles, the view is completely clear. -There's Witch Mountain. There's Domestic Mountain, and here are peaks 11 and 12. Behind them, there's another peak. -Are those their real names? 11 and 12! Did you have a problem with your imagination in the village? -It's possible. In the village opposite, they also have a 12. 13 km from here, there's a third mountain called 12. -I'm just teasing you. -Now, I have a surprise for you. There's nothing more traditional than the Krampus parade. That's what we're going to see tonight. -I love it. Oh dear! This isn't a very appealing evening. -Krampu festivals are a tradition in our family. -Are Krampus masked people? -Yes. -When did this tradition begin? -It dates back to the Middle Ages. The Krampus punishes naughty children , and Saint Nicholas rewards those who have been good. -Is that Saint Nicholas? -Saint Nicholas gives children sweets and presents. The Krampus hit unruly children with a switch. -Really? They really hit them? -Yes. -With branches, okay! -At four years old, I was scared, but then my fear disappeared. -Is it because you practiced ranggeln that you weren't afraid of the Krampus? -Yes, to send them flying. -The Krampus Festival takes place once a year , and it's in your village? -No. It lasts 15 days , and each town has its own Krampus association. Starting December 1st, it moves from village to village. -I think we've been spotted. You haven't been good! -I've been a naughty boy. -Oh yeah. Now, this is more serious. It's more impressive. … Jérôme coughs. Smoking isn't good for your health. The costume, the mask… it's really impressive. -Every year, they reinvent themselves. They create new costumes, change the masks, the gloves. The whole outfit can cost between 3,000 and 4,000 euros. A cry of surprise. … -Ouch, ouch, ouch! … Whoops! -So, Jérôme, how was the Krampus Festival? -It was a real eye-opener for me. Honestly, I'm an adult, I put things into perspective, but when you see two or three of them suddenly appear with those masks, you're not exactly feeling confident! I'm so glad I shared this with you, that I discovered this tradition. Classical music … -No matter where you are in the school, there's always music playing. -As Christmas approaches, the Vienna Academy of Music is like an Advent calendar where behind each door hides a gift for the ears. … Today, this quartet of virtuosos is recording a concert that will be broadcast in hospitals. -You'll surely find these students on the world's greatest stages, and probably in the same ensemble. Even though they're still students, they already perform many concerts. … -Since its founding in 1817, the prestigious university has played its symphony flawlessly. Recognized as one of the world's best academies for training the classical musicians of tomorrow, MDW selects 3,000 of the most promising talents to develop into artists . that transform music into emotions. … Operatic singing. … -This is when the tension needs to appear. At the beginning, it's very good, but this part still needs work. … -Having arrived from the United States, Zacharias is one of those rough diamonds destined to shine. Already the winner of three international prizes, the baritone has mastered the repertoires of Beethoven, Schubert, and Gustav Mahler, who also attended the University of Vienna. -It's a place steeped in history, a profoundly inspiring place where you can feel the energy of the great composers who studied within these walls. Studying here is a dream. … -In a short time, he has learned an enormous amount. You have to imagine that just three years ago, he didn't have all of this mastered, but because he puts so much passion into his singing, it makes him a very special artist. … -In Vienna, the quintessential city of music, since 1993, a workshop has been giving a second life to pianos damaged by time. -When I press the piano pedal, the action shifts slightly to the left, so I have to tighten the cable to stop the movement. -At just 16 years old, Sophie began her apprenticeship a month and a half ago in the delicate and subtle art of repairing and tuning pianos. -We'll be using 48 and 52 gram weights. -As a child, I always wanted to play the piano, but lessons were too expensive, so I did something else. But I always found this instrument magnificent, and I kept that dream in the back of my mind. In Vienna, it's an instrument with a rich history. -For this meticulous three-and-a-half-year training program, places are scarce. Throughout Austria, Sophie is one of five apprentices selected to breathe new life into exceptional pianos. " My role is to pass on this expertise, but it's one thing to know all the secrets of the craft and quite another to put them into practice and have the right techniques. Very few people are capable of it." (Plucking a string.) Vibrant and creative, Vienna's youth perpetuates the capital's artistic history. Far removed from the world of music, Tanja and Taro met at design school. Twenty years later, they continue their journey together , shaking up local fashion. "I'm convinced that with a little color, a few bold accessories, we can bring more joy to people's wardrobes." To this end, the two designers have created around twenty bags, distinguished by the biggest fashion magazines. Bags that blend modern design with Viennese tradition. -Here we have one of the first bags we designed. In the center, we added a piece of Viennese caning. It's the same kind you find on the chairs in our famous cafes. It's become one of the city's trademarks. In Vienna, it's easier to create your own fashion world. It's not like other fashion capitals like London or Paris, where everything is expensive. Here, you can start a project with a more modest budget and give yourself time to grow. -Having seen some of the greatest artistic geniuses of the last few centuries, Vienna still fascinates young prodigies who are writing their own story. -Welcome to the SO/ Vienna hotel. -Hello. I have an appointment with Annette, the pastry chef. Where can I find her? -On the 18th floor. You'll need to take the elevator here, please. -Sounds good, thank you very much. Elevator bell. Hello! Ah, you're here, Annette! -Ah, Jérôme! Welcome. Are you here to help me? -Well, yes! I'll wash my hands first. With these ingredients, what recipe does the pastry chef, let's say the best in Vienna, plan to prepare? -Today we're going to prepare a honey dessert that I offer on the restaurant menu. It's with currants. Together, we'll make the cake part. You'll mix all the ingredients. -Go ahead! Jérôme laughs. What's this? -A kind of meringue with lemon and vanilla. -It has a lovely texture. -You have to stir more gently now, with a delicate touch, because we don't want to remove the air from the mixture. -Like chocolate mousse, nice and airy. Was it a clear, obvious path for you to choose the path of pastry chef? -My mother was an artist and my grandfather a pastry chef. I remember sitting next to my grandparents to help them make desserts. -Really? That's funny. -I started with cooking, but I realized that pastry-making gave me more freedom. You can work with all sorts of different textures and create objects, sculptures, paintings. With pastry-making, you can reinvent yourself all the time; it's very creative. You can taste it now. It's finished. -It's very beautiful. Very harmonious. Wow! What a view! -Yes, the view is incredible, and the taste will only be better with the city all around you. -Wow, how lucky! -Enjoy your dessert. -We have the moistness of the cake, the freshness of the ice cream, the crunch… It's delicious. I'll let you in on a secret: I'm not usually much of a dessert person, but I could eat something like this every day. -That's very kind, thank you! A friend of mine makes cheese in the mountains and brings it here for fermentation. It's unique to Vienna. He's the first to do this. He found a perfect cellar with all the necessary conditions. We've arrived. We're going to meet him. -I only see ready-to-wear clothing… Are you sure this is the place? -To be honest, very few people are allowed to come here. It's a private club where we come to taste wine paired with my friend's cheeses. That's how it all started. Elevator bell rings. -It's very big in here, actually. Wow! -We're here! Look, he's inside. -Hello! -Hello! My hands are full of cheese! -It'll be fine, it'll be fine! Do you only do the aging here? -Yes. The place where I make the cheese is 700 km west of here. This is the region where I grew up. My parents were farmers. They had an alpine pasture where they made cheese. When I was a child, I loved helping them. What's important to me is that I work with wooden containers that provide the milk with natural bacteria for fermentation. I don't need starter cultures from laboratories or anything like that. -What makes your cheese exceptional? -Here, we usually eat the cheese of the year , and when the new season arrives, all the cheese has been eaten, whereas for me, it was just starting to get good. I was tired of only eating young cheese, so I rented this cellar in Vienne , and now I can age my cheeses. Would you like to taste it? -Ah! -Ah! What a beautiful cheese platter! -Oh! This place is really lovely. Exceptional. Oh my… Ah yes, it's very old. -We're going to taste a 3-year-old cheese. -Yeah! You can really taste the milk, I think, and then the hint of salt comes through. It's very good, Anton, well done. -This one's my favorite. It's perfect with the crystallization and the maturation, it's fantastic. -The French have some competition! Thank you very much. -Ciao, have a good day. … -This is the Karlsplatz market. It's more of a craft market. Artists sell their creations here. It's been around for 300 years in Vienna. -Despite the weather, which isn't very inviting, you can see that there are a lot of people at this Christmas market. I really get the impression that it's an integral part of the lives of Austrians and Viennese. -Yes, we all have childhood memories. I, for example, remember having fun on a carousel like this. It's really specific to this market. -Oh yeah, I hadn't noticed! -It was fun being on the bikes. -No electricity, we pedal to make the carousel go! Excellent idea. I'm not sure she'll manage to catch him! -No, she'll never catch him, but that's what makes the game exciting, isn't it? -What do these Christmas markets bring to mind for you when you were a child? -I remember that when I was little, I could choose a present, an object to decorate the Christmas tree. I was only allowed one, and then, traditionally, we ate a hash brown with cream on top. I remember it very well. -Is that right? It's not Proust's madeleine but Proust's potato, for you. -I hope this day has made you love Vienna more. -Absolutely. It was a pleasure for me. A pleasure shared. Have a wonderful holiday! -Thank you, you too. … -In Vienna, the days are really short in winter. So you have to start exploring the city very early to make the most of it because here, the sun sets at 4 p.m. -If the early bird catches the worm, for her guided tours, Siri, a history enthusiast, prefers to delve into Vienna's glorious past. -Welcome to the Naschmarkt. My name is Siri. It probably reminds you of your phone's virtual assistant ! It works the same way. If you have a question, you can call me by my first name. This market has existed for about 250 years. At the time, practically all of Central Europe belonged to the Habsburg Empire, so today you can still find culinary specialties from all over that region. -Delightfully cosmopolitan, the capital's main food market travels between the East and the Balkans. Amidst the colorful stalls and spices, even the Viennese's favorite drink is a legacy of the 17th-century Ottomans. Cheers! Drinking coffee in the morning is part of the Viennese way of life. We take our time, there's no rush, and that way, we enjoy every moment more. Born in Thailand, Siri considers herself a Viennese by adoption. So, to nurture her connection with her beloved city, every Wednesday evening, the young woman meets up with her friends for another local tradition: singing together. "I think we're people who love art in general. So, playing music, singing, for me, is the best way to feel at home. Music connects us all. " With its timeless art of living and serenity, the Austrian capital has ranked first among the most livable cities in the world for over 10 years . A simple pleasure that can be found at lunchtime in one of the city's 300 sausage stands. Owners of the oldest location, established in the same spot since 1928, Patrick and his mother Vera have made it their go-to spot. "We'll get a large platter to share for those with a hearty appetite." Lightly smoked and topped with cheese, this local favorite is best enjoyed standing at the counter, allowing for a better view of Viennese society. "Great, thanks. Viennese people from all walks of life come here to eat. It could be the former president, workers , or tourists from the other side of the world. Since you're standing side-by-side, it's easier to chat with strangers. It's not like a restaurant, where everyone sits at their own table. You're served in just a few minutes, and it's really inexpensive. This is our first fast-food restaurant, and it's been around for almost 100 years." In Vienna, the imprint of the past is everywhere. From its Baroque facades to its imposing architecture, the former imperial capital can seem frozen in time. And yet, northeast of the city center, Vienna continues to build its history at breakneck speed. On the site of a former airport, for the past 15 years, Vienna has been undertaking one of Europe's largest construction projects, building a new district around an artificial lake. Four years ago, when his daughter was born, Bernd moved from the old town to this eco-district. "Marlene, come on, walk, my girl! It's lovely living in the middle of a huge pedestrian zone. I don't have to worry about cars. There are hardly any here. It's perfect for cycling or playing: all the spaces, the sidewalks are much wider. Before, cities were built around the church or the town hall. Here, the lake and nature serve as the city center." Emerging from the ground on a vast blank canvas, in Seestadt, it's now up to the residents to imagine the city of tomorrow. -Welcome! Go ahead, sit down at the table. -Would you like to cut some gingerbread? -In the heart of the neighborhood, a space is always open for neighbors to meet. A few days before the holidays, young and old bake Christmas cookies together. -A unicorn! -It really gives you a sense of belonging to this neighborhood. You feel at home. Getting together like this at Christmas is the best time of year to be together. -Getting to know your neighbors better, for us, can help create a kind of resilience, a sense of solidarity. I would even say that a neighborhood where life is good is a neighborhood that makes people happy. -With these smiles, Vienna is reinventing its art of living. A certain idea of ​​shared happiness. Christmas music. … -I might take a little train ride to end my trip on a high note, but I'm a bit nervous about the thrills. … Ah, thank you! What a unique atmosphere here in Vienna, the Austrian imperial capital, with these illuminations… Here, history, music, performance, and traditions intertwine to create incredibly warm moments of sharing. -OH! -Austrians love getting together. All generations, all social classes come together to share these moments, and I find it quite beautiful. It was incredibly moving for me to experience these moments. I hope you enjoyed my journey. See you soon for more wonderful escapes to other faraway lands. You can watch and rewatch this program on replay on france.tv or follow behind-the-scenes content on our programs on social media. Take care, see you soon! Auf Wiedersehen! france.tv access