De Côme à Garde : Voyage au cœur des lacs italiens | Trésors du Patrimoine

Entre montagnes et reflets, les lacs italiens dévoilent leur splendeur éternelle.
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00:00 Introduction – Les joyaux du Nord de l’Italie
05:00 Le lac Majeur et les îles Borromées
15:00 Le lac de Côme, refuge des poètes et des princes
25:00 Le lac de Garde, entre légendes et élégance
35:00 Villégiatures et villas d’exception
45:00 Beautés naturelles et héritage culturel

Des montagnes alpines aux rives enchanteresses, cet épisode de “La splendeur des lacs italiens” nous plonge dans les paysages mythiques du Nord de l’Italie : le lac de Côme, le lac Majeur et le lac de Garde.
À travers ces lieux d’exception où l’art rencontre la nature, l’histoire défile dans le miroir des eaux. Entre légendes, villas somptueuses et lumière méditerranéenne, le voyage devient une célébration de l’élégance italienne et du temps suspendu.

Titre : La splendeur des lacs italiens
Réalisateur : Mario Introia
© Tous droits réservés – AMP

#Italie #LacsItaliens #LacDeCome #LacMajeur #LacDeGarde #Voyage #Documentaire #Patrimoine #Culture #Paysages
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In the Alps,
at the height of the last ice age, 20,000 years ago,
the valleys were occupied by gigantic glaciers
hundreds of meters thick. Only
the high mountain peaks emerged like phantom islands. 11,000 years ago,
under the effect of a sudden warming, the climate shifted from one year
to the next, sometimes registering temperature differences of more than 10 degrees. It was as if a divine hand had
suddenly pressed a button. The large glaciers of the subalpine valleys
will gradually retreat to make way for vast bodies of water
nestled between the mountains. Lake Major will be the first
lake on our route. It stretches for 66 kilometers
between Italy and Switzerland, straddling Piedmont and Lombardy. More than 80 percent are located
in Italy, offering breathtaking panoramas.
Stresa is the most famous of the towns on Lake Major, strategically oriented towards the Borromean Gulf. In Switzerland,
the opening in 1906 of the Saint-Plon railway tunnel allowed Stresa station
to accommodate trains on the famous London, Paris, Milan line. The European elite, aristocrats,
writers and captains of industry, will take turns celebrating
the wonders of Streza and the gentleness of Lake Major. From the beginning of the 19th century,
when the most majestic palaces were built on the shores of the lake, Streza became
a very fashionable holiday destination. The Grand Hotel des Îles Borromé,
founded in 1861, is the most famous of the long list
of luxurious lakeside palaces, where a magical atmosphere reigns, reinforced
by the ghosts of those who have stayed there. Kings, heads of state,
great writers, great opera composers,
all have left an indelible mark of their passage. Thus, the imagery
of the Palace evokes luxury. The captains of industry,
the stars and the celebrities who still frequent them
perpetuate the myth of these exceptional hotels which abound in marble
and precious woods, gilding and works of art in an infinite number of details
where the extreme quality of the materials is combined with ancestral know-how. Ernest Hemingway, another regular at the Grand Hotel Borromeo, has given his name to one
of the most beautiful suites where works of art, paintings and antique furniture
adorn each of the rooms, contributing to giving a
romantic atmosphere and an old-fashioned charm to this place steeped in history. Between the rigor of the Swiss peaks
and the gentleness of Italy, the heights of Streza offer the most
beautiful panorama of the Bourromé Islands archipelago. Fisherman’s Island was the first
of the three inhabited islands. From the 1950s onwards, the island became
a successful tourist attraction. Consequently, the fishermen
eventually abandoned their nets to become shrewd traders. Where once the day’s catch was sold
by auction, hotels and restaurants now cluster on the quays. The most fascinating of the three islands is
undoubtedly Isola Bella and its 17th-century Baroque palace,
built under Charles Borromeo, the third of that name, still
occupied by his descendants. The palace is complemented by a
baroque garden in the purest Italian tradition. Topped with a rearing unicorn,
the Massimot theatre, built on three levels of
superimposed arcades, itself crowned with statues of cherubs,
is a pure baroque folly. By some unknown magic,
the mere name of Borome invites reverie. It is that of a Milanese family that
prospered in banking before being ennobled by the Visconti family,
the lords of the Lombard city. To consolidate their power a little more,
the Borome family bought La Rocca from the Visconti in 1441 , an 11th-century fortress
strategically positioned on the lake. The
perfectly preserved medieval fortress has housed the Doll Museum since 1988,
one of the most important in the world, not only for the number of models but especially for the
rarity of the models it contains. Princess Bonna Borrome’s priceless collection
, displayed in 12 rooms of the castle, is enriched each year with
dolls from all corners of the world. What better place for her than this
fairytale castle perched on a rocky outcrop. Upstream from the fortress, suspended on a cliff, the monastery of Santa Caterina del Saso
seems to defy the laws of gravity. The monastery houses frescoes of
great artistic and spiritual value that cover a period
essentially from the 13th to the 16th century. The monastery’s origins date back
to the late 12th century. Alberto Bessozi, a
gentleman and merchant by trade, was a victim of bad weather on the lake. Saved from drowning,
he had the monastery built by the Dominican monks where he
withdrew as a hermit until the last moment of his life. Since 1535,
the mummified body of Blessed Alberto has been displayed in the chapel he
had built. From then on, Santa Caterina del Saso
became a major pilgrimage site. The Valais Alps,
weighed down by their eternal snow, act on Lake Major
as a true climatic barrier. They shelter it from the North winds to
offer it the mildness of a Mediterranean climate where lush gardens abound
, with an intoxicating fragrance. They are as much romantic
and wonderful walks as they are places designed for the pleasure of all the senses. The Great Lakes region
holds many hidden treasures. Although less well-known than its neighbour, Lake Major
, located about twenty kilometres further west,
Lake Orta is one of those enchanting places that leave
an indelible mark on the memory of travellers. Nestled in the Piedmont mountains,
like a pearl in a green setting, Lake Orta resembles a
watercolor landscape where the pearly blue of the waters blends with the infinite green of the wooded mountains. At the center, as a final touch to the picture,
emerges a single, tiny island entirely covered with
medieval buildings, clustered around a Romanesque basilica. Although the basilica contains frescoes
of great interest by Carlo Borsetti, such as the Holy Trinity,
the major work of art is the Romanesque chapel, made of serpentine marble from the 12th century.
A pure marvel. On
the walls and columns of the side aisles, 13th-
century frescoes illustrate the life of San Giulio. In the small town of Orta San Giulio, there
reigns a delightfully old-fashioned atmosphere. From the central square,
the eye is irresistibly drawn to a noble building covered
in frescoes, perched on granite columns. This is the Town Hall,
built in 1582, where justice was administered on market days
, under its arcades. Orta San Giulio boasts a labyrinth
of charming alleyways, such as the beautiful, flower-lined ascent of Mauta Street. It holds some very nice surprises
for architecture enthusiasts, such as the bourgeois houses of the 15th
and 17th centuries, covered with slate. On
the heights of San Giulio, the stunning Villa Crespi
overlooks the blue waters of the lake. It’s a waking dream, an authentic
oriental palace worthy of a fairy tale. It was in 1879, 19,
that the dream took shape, upon the return of Benino Crespi
from his many business trips to the Orient, during which he
succumbed to the enchanting charm of Baghdad. Back at his beloved lake,
he decides to bring to life what has ignited his imagination. Of all the great lakes,
Lake Caume has always enjoyed the greatest prestige, being the
starting or finishing point of the Grand Tour. This famous grand journey,
undertaken across 18th- century Europe by young men of
European nobility to complete their education, followed by the sharpshooters
of the Romantics in whom the mountains exalt the sense of the grandiose. Between earth and sky,
the alpine pastures of Lake Como offer us one of the most beautiful balconies in Italy,
with a spectacular 360- degree panorama, straddling
Switzerland and Italy. Welcome to Giovanna and Nino’s,
the undisputed ones of Lake Como. Here, during the summer grazing season, from June to September,
Nino and Giovanna, the indomitable ones, perpetuate the pastoral soul
of the mountain farms. An endangered species,
since most of their neighboring farmers succumbed to the
silver sirens of the jet set. The spectacular location of these farms,
perched at nearly 1,000 meters altitude, overlooking the lake,
makes them highly sought after. Wealthy hotel owners,
princes, artists and captains of industry
are all vying to outbid each other to acquire these eagle’s nests. The origin of the alpine pastures on the highlands of Lake Como is closely linked to the monks. These are presented as having,
in medieval times, shaped most of the high-altitude pastures. They are also seen
as the inventors of animal husbandry and cheesemaking techniques. A technique which they would have
generously donated to the peasants. Life in the Alpine pastures has a certain power of attraction on those who aspire
to a different life less subject to the stress of city life. Here, the daily life of these two
irrepressible people, in constant contact with nature without ever defying it,
gives me the impression of a preserved island of life. Certainly, during the summer grazing season, from 5:00
am to 8:00 pm, the activity is intense. Giovana and Nino don’t have
time to flirt. In addition to their 25 dairy cows,
they own 45 goats that need to be looked after day after day. “ Our animals,” Giovanna told me, “
are an integral part of our daily lives.” They are an integral part of our lives,
just like any other member of the family. It’s the other one, you. In this land of plenty,
which smells of tranquility, freedom and the passion of the
mountain terroir, Giovanna and Nino perpetuate, according to Lombard tradition,
the making of some of the most famous cheeses in Italy. Giovanna also produces a delicious barade butter
, from the old chestnut wood barade
inherited from her parents. ” In the past,” she told me, ”
the barade had a crank that operated paddles
to thoroughly agitate the cream.” It was a tedious job
that required a certain amount of physical endurance and could take
from one to three hours depending on the ambient temperature. Nino cleverly electrified it
without taking away its soul. And the barn still produces that
delicious butter with a beautiful yellow color that reminds me of the
wonderful taste of my childhood. No, no, no. We bid farewell to our friends who,
during our stay in their eagle’s nest, opened their hearts to us
and gave us their trust. The town of Caume is the capital
of the lake to which it gave its name. Its strategic importance in the Middle Ages
had allowed it to rival Milan. Its 14th-century marble cathedral
, particularly ornate, stands out for its elegance and its
dominance over the city’s architecture. It is a perfect example of the
harmonious combination of Gothic and Renaissance elements that were the hallmark of the great cathedral builders,
the master builders like those at Cigny, who spread
the Lombard style throughout Europe. Adjoining the cathedral, as if to demonstrate the close ties between civil and religious authorities,
is the Broletto, the old town hall which reflects the
medieval splendor of the city. From Piazza Cavour,
like the elegant ones, with its colorful building facades,
these terraces where one remakes the world while enjoying a ristretto. As celebrated by those illustrious citizens who
have made its reputation throughout the world. The most honored is Alessandro Volta, to
whom the city has built a veritable temple. Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio
Volta, a physicist by profession, was born in Como on February 18, 1745. While he has several notable inventions
to his credit, this Italian physicist left his mark on science by inventing
the first electric battery in 1800. The
city of Como and its surroundings have seen the cream of European aristocracy pass through
over the last 250 years, later joined by the
biggest Hollywood stars. Thus, over time, sumptuous residences were built, scattered along the lake. In some of them,
famous operas were born, but also great love affairs. The composer Bellini,
who was a great courtier, composed
La somnambule and La norma in one of them. For the singer Tudita, his mistress,
alas, married and settled on the opposite bank. It is written in his memoirs
that when he saw a flag tied to his sweetheart’s window,
he would rush to join her by boat. It was a sign that her husband had
left and that the coast was clear. Lake Como was also the scene
of events that have marked the history of Italy. Among these events,
the death of Benito Mussolini, around which
an organized opacity still persists today, deserves to be recounted to you. Indeed, on April 27, 1945, at 3:30 p.m., while attempting to flee Italy with a treasure estimated at several hundred
billion lire stolen from the Italian state,
Mussolini and his mistress were arrested near the town of Dongo, in this tunnel
by partisans of the Garibaldi brigade. On the same day, Mussolini and his partner
were transferred to the small village of Mezzegra, 35 km from Dongo. On the very day of their transfer,
they were shot down here, in front of the gate
of the Villa Belmonte, in the utmost secrecy
and in a confusion that has become historic and which, even today, remains a mystery. A mystery undoubtedly fueled by those
who would have everything to lose if one day the truth were to come out in what
could become the biggest scandal in the Italian Republic. I want to talk about
Mussolini’s vanished treasure, stolen from the Italian state. Who benefits from it today? The golden age of this much-loved lake reached its
peak in the 18th century, during which the most
beautiful homes on the lake were built, the pride of yesterday’s aristocrats
and today’s stars. I suggest we pause for a few
moments to consider some of them. Starting with the Villa Balbianello,
in Renaissance style, built in 1787 on the ruins of a Franciscan convent. Beloved by Hollywood,
it has served as the setting for several major film productions, including,
among others, several episodes of the famous
James Bond series, several episodes of Star Wars,
and so many other famous films. The very popular Villa Carlotta,
built at the end of the 17th century, is the star of this part of the lake. It has had several owners,
including Princess Marianne of Holland, who gifted it to her daughter,
Princess Charlotte of Prussia, in 1850. Inside, on two floors,
one can admire an impressive collection of works of art,
including sculptures by Canova in white Carat marble. After crossing the threshold,
one enters the entrance hall, dominated by the remarkable statue
representing Mars and Venus. Here in the love room,
is a very beautiful sculpture of Psyche, revived by Cupid’s kiss. There, Madeleine the Repentant,
symbol of the sacrament of penance. Finally, the most accomplished work is
Palmaide, a Greek prince who took part in the Trojan War. The picture room houses
Jean-Baptiste Vicard’s masterpiece, depicting his life as the
sister of Emperor Augustus, fainting while listening to
Virgil’s verses evoking the death of her son, Marcillus. From the citrus arbor, one can access the park gardens
where trees and plants from all over the world follow one another around the villa to
offer us a walk full of freshness and summer scent. Lake Como loved the great masters
of opera, and the souls of opera composers were particularly
sensitive to its charm. Addressing a close friend,
Giuseppe Everdi wrote: The infinite sweetness of Lake Como is a trap. Without seeming to, this landscape has the ability to
instantly create a sense of serenity and peace. We obviously agree to it with
delight and are amazed by it. It’s the city of the city. How, indeed,
can a place so effectively protect the soul from its torments and
feelings from their excesses? To compose his famous traviata,
Giuseppe Everdi, whose life was not a long, tranquil river,
came to seek calm and inspiration in this pretty villa,
owned by his wife Margarita. Very close to Villa Verdi,
Villa Maria still welcomes famous people for holidays. In a small village in the hills near
the lake, a carnival tradition persists which draws its origin
from the history common to so many villages in the region where men left their
country and their family for ten months of the year and sometimes several
years in search of work. Thus, the carnival decreed the departure
of these men and the ensuing solitude of the women , who concealed their
sadness behind wooden masks. Baptiste is one of the last wood mask sculptors attached to this tradition. Like his grandfather and father before
him, he continues to make the masks, so characteristic of this masquerade,
which features two masked characters, the brutto and the bello,
the milk, and the beautiful. The milk wears a wrinkled and deformed mask,
characteristic of its social condition. He is a poor and thin man who has
no other choice but to resign himself to leaving the country to feed his family. Beauty, on the other hand, is opulent,
wears an arrogant mask, often with a mustache, mocking and vain. He embodies the old-fashioned, wealthy petit bourgeois
who has no need to leave his country to feed his family. The importance of these wooden masks,
worn during the carnival, remains fundamental. For the inhabitants of Chiniano,
maintaining the tradition means remembering a not-
so-distant past when these highlands knew poverty
and the sadness of the inhabitants who saw their loved ones
leave one after another. Some of these masks,
among the oldest, are highly sought after
by collectors and can reach and exceed 3,000 euros. The few families who own them
jealously preserve them for their sentimental value, but for some
time now also as heritage value. The splendid nature of Lake Como has
never suffered irreversible desecration. Man has always jealously guarded its
preservation in respect of the environment by giving life
to a large number of small villages of character perched between shores
and mountains, without ever denying the natural setting of the lake. Among these small villages is Varenna,
an ancient little fishing port flooded with light whose origins
date back to the 10th century. This little corner of paradise has inspired
many literary chronicles that have traveled the world. Regarding Varennes, Alfred de Musset, the
famous 19th-century poet and playwright , wrote: “There is no
land more manifestly blessed by heaven.” What’s the point of searching for happiness,
since it’s right here, before my eyes? The area around Lake Como is very
popular with cyclists, whether amateur or professional. The vertiginous peaks surrounding
the lake feature spectacular elevation changes and attract
Italy’s biggest cycling races, including the Giro d’Italia. The Ghiszaio pass is the most famous. Famous for the difficulty
of the climb, but also famous for the presence
at the summit of the sanctuary of the Madonna del Ghiszaio, proclaimed by Pope Pius XII in 1948, universal patron saint of cyclists. Since the papal bull,
the interior of the small chapel, built in 1623, has begun to fill with
objects left by the runners as signs of devotion. From then on, the custom of making offerings
to the shrine of Ghisza aïaut spread among world cycling champions. Some will offer their prized
bicycle, others their distinctive jersey, all of which have
won major competitions. Since 1948, the offerings have become so numerous and happy over the years that an ultra-modern cycling museum had to
be built, not far from the chapel, to house them. For those who, devoted to the tradition of traveling to Lake Como,
and particularly to Bellagio, the pearl of the lake, inevitably seek
to follow in the footsteps of the illustrious travelers who preceded them. But here, more than anywhere else,
the mere mention of Bellagio has the immediate effect of bringing up
the memory of Stendhal, the undisputed master of the place,
the one whose soul continues to tenderly watch over the waters of the lake. This lieutenant in General
Bonaparte’s army was only 17 years old when he first set foot
on its banks. This encounter will never leave a mark on him. Even when his youth was behind him,
the young officer had become the famous and successful writer, author
of The Charterhouse of Parma. A major work,
a must-read of 19th century romantic literature, of which Lake Como,
and the tip of Belladio, is the anchor point. The sublime Belladio headland is
at the crossroads of the two branches of the lake where the most beautiful balcony
in Italy unfolds, with the snow-capped peaks of the Valtellina as a backdrop. Just opposite Villa Carlotta,
which protected the love of a queen with her coachman, is Villa Melzi,
known for the adulterous love affair of Franz Liszt and Countess Marie d’Ago. This early 19th century villa,
built by Duke Francesco Melzi, experienced many passions. Here, on the shores of Lake Como,
Cupid, the dreamer, contemplates the love of Dante and Beatrice,
the most famous lovers of Italian literature who exalt
the romanticism of the place. From lush gardens to
sumptuous 18th-century villas, from grandeur to majesty,
from poetic romanticism to financial follies, everything here is reflected
in the clear waters of this lake whose shores are among
the most enchanting in the world. Located 40 kilometers north of Cremona,
Lake Garda is a dazzling lesson in beauty, a perfection in harmony. Since Goethe recounted his journey there
in 1786, it has been accepted that this part of Italy is the garden of Europe. Today, the charm remains intact,
just as one might have imagined it at the end of the 18th century. From Roman times until the decline
of the Republic of Venice, the town of Garda,
which gave its name to the lake, was an ancient customs post
for the control of tributas, the tax collected, as
port and passage fees. From the 19th century onwards,
due to its southern location on the lake, it became a charming and
renowned seaside resort with an exceptionally mild climate,
similar to that found on the shores of the Mediterranean. Wandering through the narrow streets of Garda
is like taking a gourmet journey through the best wines of the region
and the essential repertoire of Italian cuisine. If you ever pass through this
charming little town, go and taste the best pizza
on the lake, at my friend Sandro’s place. You will then understand why this symbol
of Italian gastronomy is the most served dish in the world,
recently added to the heritage of humanity. According to Planetoscope,
30 billion pieces are consumed each year, which represents approximately 450,000 tons
of pizza consumed annually worldwide. Further south,
where the Mincio, a tributary of the Pau, escapes from the lake, the town of Pesquera del
Garde reminds us that it was, from the Middle Ages onwards,
an important stronghold, as evidenced by these
fortifications still surrounded by water. From Pesquera del Garde,
a narrow strip of land juts out into the lake, like the prow
of a boat heading towards Sirmione. Beloved by artists and poets since
antiquity, but also by the great Maria Callas, who came to
recharge her batteries between tours. Sirmione is dominated by the imposing
13th-century castle, the Rocascaligera. This medieval castle is one of the most
complete and best preserved in Italy, as well as one of the rare examples
of lakeside fortifications. Even today, the 13th- century drawbridge is an obligatory passage to access the historic center, considered
the prettiest village on Lake Garda. To the west of Sirmione, the capital of the lake,
Dechenzano del Garda, was, during the time of the Republic of Venice,
an important and very active crossroads in the trade of grain and citrus fruits
between Verona and Brechia. While
grain and citrus fruits were the source of Dechenzano’s wealth until the 19th century, it is
tourism that contributes to its prosperity today. The old 11th-century port,
enlarged under the Republic of Venice to increase its commercial power,
still retains a strong Venetian imprint,
as demonstrated by the architecture of some of its buildings
along its quays. Italy’s largest lake
is not afraid of paradoxes. The variety of these picturesque
high mountain landscapes contrasts with these exotic shores, populated with olive trees,
dotted with cypresses, palm trees, bougainvillea, and
even more surprisingly, lemon trees. Few people know this,
but until the 17th century, the area around Lake Garda was
the northernmost place in the world where lemons were grown
to ensure the prosperity of the Limones region. But in the last century, profitability was
no longer guaranteed. The areas dedicated to
lemon tree cultivation have almost disappeared. However, a small group of enthusiasts
is fighting to preserve this endangered heritage. Giuseppe is one of those enthusiasts
who keep the tradition alive. “ Here,” Giuseppe tells us, “
we are in one of the last 15th-century lemonades
still in operation.” Currently,
as you can see, it is in its summer period,
without its wood and glass covering which we put up from
mid-November until March. Indeed, on the lake,
periodically during the winter, temperatures can sometimes
drop to less than three degrees. Without this protection,
lemon trees could suffer irreversible damage. Giuseppe’s lemonade produces
such a sweet, unique lemon that it can be enjoyed
as if it were an orange. This unique characteristic produces one
of the best limoncello in northern Italy, reserved
for certain Michelin-starred restaurants. Hopin a racolto questi limoni I have just picked these lemons to reveal to you the
ancestral recipe of our limoncello. Here we are in our kitchen to share with you the recipe for limoncello,
passed down by my great-grandparents who were already growing lemons. So, to make a good limoncello, you need to get lemons that are not too ripe, still a little green. The quantity is as follows:
12 lemons for half a liter of alcohol. From here,
I will peel the lemons and continue with the recipe step by step. The limons will need to be cut with
a potato-like wire, using very light strokes, in order to create a very thin skin. Do
you see? So. These skins must
be placed in alcohol to macerate. Listen, let’s prepare,
as I said before, the dose for 12 lemons, and let’s macerate the peels. It’s true. Sometimes they say to
leave it for 15, 20 days. It’s good. In just one day, in 24 hours, the alcohol manages to extract all the oleolytics from the skin of the alcohol. After 12 hours, add more water, 800 g of aqua. Mettiamo acquired it on the fire and
facciamo bollire. When the water is boiling, we add the sugar,
we say: 600 grams, with 800 grams of water. Do
you realize? Then, we mix it. At this point, we take the alcohol with the log already macerated in alcohol. And there, the limoncello,
in this way, is already macerated. And the unique one, at this moment,
is already ready. You’ll see that questo limoncello
is truly exquisite. Non est, certo,
paragonable à quello que si acquista, nei centres commerciaux,
au supermarché, et non est nemmeno quello que lui ofrono, à un restaurant,
parce que, est toute une autre chose. It’s ready, and we can try it.
Here is the fruit. From Malsci-Cyne,
the lake reveals its most beautiful landscapes and offers us magnificent perspectives
that combine the gentleness and tranquility of these enchanted shores. Here, the names of the places are
only matched by the beauty of the landscapes. Cyrennes Bay,
Dream Cove and Love Island are made famous
in the romantic chronicles of George Sand, whose real name was Aurore Dupin.