First Gravel Track On Our BMW R1300 GS Adventure!
Join us as we ride through the heart of the Balkans, from the stunning city of Mostar, Bosnia, to the iconic Dubrovnik, Croatia. But this wasn’t just another scenic ride — we unexpectedly find ourselves navigating an incomplete road with some serious surprises along the way! From rocky detours to the hopes of crossing the border, it’s an adventure that was full of twists, turns, and unforgettable moments.
In this episode of our round-the-world motorcycle tour, we tackle the challenges of an unfinished road, encounter border uncertainties, and ride the BMW R1300 GSA through some of the most picturesque landscapes in the Balkans. Will we make it to Croatia? Find out as we continue our motorcycle adventure around the world, one unexpected ride at a time!
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Good morning from Mosa. I think doesn’t the city look vibrant today? It really does. We’ve uh woke up, we’ve come straight out and we’re going to be heading to breakfast because we’ve got a busy day planned. Yeah, I think it had a bit of a downpour last night, but it’s uh it’s really fresh. So, the water is drying off. I think the roads are getting dry. There is some more rain due for this afternoon. But uh a contrast to last night when we arrived and the place was really really busy. It’s quiet at the moment and it’s I think it’s only what 9:00 I think. It’s just gone 9:00. So, I thought it’d be busier than this. So, I think we’re going to have a little walk through the town. Yeah. Enjoy the uh the peacefulness of it. We get some breakfast and then we’ll decide where we’re going to go later on the day. But the rough plan is to continue down the Croatian coast and just keep going south really and see how far we’re going to get. Just walking to breakfast now as the city starts to wake up. All the shopkeepers are bringing out their um their treasures to sell for the day and ice cream shops are opening. Restaurants are starting to get that smell throughout the streets. But we’re actually going to be heading back to a place that we headed to last night for dinner. It’s the food um bar and restaurant. It’s just around this corner, but they do an amazing breakfast. And if I remember correctly, they also offer a Bosnian coffee, which is the exact thing I am in the mood for. So, let’s head over there now. Coffee has arrived. a traditional Bosnian coffee and the server just came over and made it right in front of me, which is really cool. So, in this pot here, they put the coffee and a little bit of hot water and then they heat this pot over an open flame until it starts to bubble. It creates kind of a foam on the top and they scoop that foam off and into this little cup. And then once they’ve scooped all of the foam off, they pour the hot coffee liquid into here. And now they have to tell us that you have to wait like I don’t know a couple of minutes for the coffee to settle before you can try it. So I’ve waited a couple of minutes. I’m going to give it a try now. Very excited. He did recommend I have it with sugar, but I’m going to try it without. And in this little pot, we also have some Turkish delights. So let’s give it a try. It’s lovely. It’s not as strong as I thought. It’s still quite mild. It’s got a lovely nutty taste to it. M Sean, would you like to try? Thanks. One you have prepared earlier. I actually remember the first time I had this style coffee. Um I think it’s in Montenegro and I hadn’t I didn’t wait for it to settle. I just gulped it and it was like just drinking like a big cup of grounds. But I think it’s quite mild. Yeah, it is. It’s um is nice though, isn’t it? As long as you uh wait for it to settle. So for breakfast, we’ve gone for shashuka eggs. They look and smell fantastic. So let’s tuck in. Must is one of Bosnia’s most beautiful and tragic cities. It’s known for the Star M, the old bridge built by the Ottomans in the 1500s. For centuries, this bridge connected the two sides of the city both physically and culturally. Bosnjikes, Croats, and others lived side by side for generations. But in the early 1900s, Yugoslava broke apart and Bosnia declared independence. What followed was a brutal war between Bosnia’s ethnic groups, especially Bosnjaks, Muslims, and Croats, Catholics in this region. In 1993, Mosa became a frontline city. The beautiful old bridge was deliberately destroyed by Crowat forces. Neighbors became enemies. The city was divided by a river, but more deeply by fear and violence. The war ended in 1995 with the Dayton Peace Agreement. A deal brokered by the US that stopped the fighting and split the country into two parts trying to balance power between the groups. It brought peace but also left behind a complicated political system and still causes tension today. Today, Mster is a place of contrasts. War damaged beside cafes, tourists jumping off the bridge where snipers once stood. A reminder that peace is fragile but possible. Right, it’s time to leave Mosa. We scured back to the hotel after breakfast, quickly packed up the bike, and now we’re ready to go again. I think we’re actually going to do a little loop around the city before we head into the countryside and we’ll see a little bit of the countryside, which will be good. And then we drop down into Croatia again. Let’s go. It’s not the best weather today, guys. No threatening threatening to rain again. So yeah, we had a good location with that hotel. It’s just a couple of minutes walk into the city center into the bridge. It’s just down here, isn’t it? Yeah, that’s right. Where that coach is dropping everybody off. This one on our right hasn’t been done up yet. Um I don’t know if it’s got plans to, but the cornises at the top are looking a little bit sketchy. I’d say it’s a shame really cuz it’s quite a beautiful facade. It is, isn’t it? Yeah. So, as we ride through, you’ll probably notice a lot of the the scars of the past on these buildings. Yeah, the ones outside the city center have been left as they were, I think. But what we didn’t realize is last night we uh we carried on walking through and you should get past the old town bit. It goes all the way back with uh more shops and restaurants and hotels. So, it’s uh it’s a lot bigger this city than we first thought it was. Yeah, the old town is is small and sweet, but the town that’s the the town the street that’s parallel to this one that we’re on is uh is again lovely. It is. Yeah, I think um two nights would have been good here. Yeah, like a full a full day. There’s a few um museums about the past here which could be quite insightful as well. There’s the genocide museum. We just passed it um there as well. And there’s a lot of photographs of how the city did look, which makes you appreciate how it looks now. Yeah, it has been restored very well. Um like there’s there’s some parts of it that were completely ruined, but you you wouldn’t know today looking at it. We were reading last night, weren’t we, about Yeah. the the US the US formed that treaty, didn’t they? Which did bring peace to the area. But also, we also read that there’s still a lot of tension in the area um with some parties trying to bring up things again from the past. So, I hope they stay hope they stay in peace. Of course. Of course. So, I think the people and the country have been through enough. Absolutely. And it really wasn’t that long ago. 1995. Yeah. Right. Crossing over the river here. Obviously not one of the main bridges. She’s going for it. She was very thankful. Does she not know how I was talking at the time? Over the river. Can’t quite see the bridge. It’s quite a twi um twiny a twisty and windy uh river that runs through Musta. So, you see that like cornery tower block just up front there on the right? Yeah, that’s quite well known cuz it’s um I think on one of the corners there’s like a hole carved out and that was one of the sniper positions. Right. This one’s um seen better days as well. That one looks like it’s been left as a I don’t know as a reminder or something. That is littered with bullet holes, isn’t it? It is, isn’t it? It’s looks like it’s barely standing. That one. This one’s pretty though. The yellow one. The new one. Yeah, it is, isn’t it? And here are all the trees and the greenery. It’s is a nice city on the whole. It is. The bridge is special. Yeah. And the old town’s beautiful. Really well wellkept. Just had a little downpour, but not too bad. Yeah, it’s not too I think these rally suits give you about I don’t know 5 minutes of light rain protection and then it’ll start seeping through. But on the flip side, they do dry pretty quickly. So, uh yeah, we we took the risk that it wasn’t going to continue. I think it’s paid off. But the most direct route to De Brvnik was that way, which is similar to the way we came. But uh it would be a shame not to see a little bit of the country here. So we’re carrying on. We’ve given in and put the waterproofs on. Had to be done. Now it stopped raining. Yeah. And the sun actually. And there’s blue sky. And I’m overheating now. We’ll at least give it 15 minutes before we take them off. Putting them on. Take them off again. Let’s head back to the coast. We picked the the smallest road we can find to weave our way back to the coast through Bosnia. And I think we’re going to go past the lake in about an hour or so. But we’ve only done about 20 km so far and it’s taken us an hour. Half an hour that was changing some picturesque scenery today. We go past what looks like a bit of a nature reserve and a lake there on the left. It’s beautiful. It’s just coming into view now. It’s blocked by the hedges. Get a brief view. We’re up on the path around the lake now. It’s a cool road this It is. Gives a great view of the lake, too. Couldn’t really It is huge. You couldn’t really see it from down there. And you can tell we’re heading uh more towards the coastline now cuz the the uh the sceneryy’s changed, hasn’t it, from those like lush green to a little bit more barren green with the rocks showing through. Yeah, it’s quite a uh a the road goes all along there. Oh, does it? Some big rocks on the road, though. Didn’t know Bosnia had passes like this. We’ve We’ve only really seen the north of the country. We went to see the waterfall last time we were here, didn’t we? It’s like Yeah, that was that was spectacular. Yeah, I like the um the rusted barrier. I was actually thinking the same, too. Yeah, like it’s weathered and aged. Been there a long time. It’s got a big hole in it, though. Lots of CCTV cameras around. I think it’s a reservoir. Okay. But I could see. Yeah, it looks like it like a big concrete concrete weather a reservoir storing the water. But had a quite a bit of security around it, didn’t it? It did. That’s something disguised as a reservoir. Um, I bet you’re regretting taking off your waterproof with that cloud. Well, looking at the sky ahead. Yes. Yes, I am. I like this road. It’s a good end. It is. How come he’s just stopped? We’ve got some brand new road surfaces. This actually looks like a completely new road, doesn’t it? They’ve only recently carved this out of the rock. Yeah. Uttery smooth. It is. But uh Oh, I don’t like the look of that cloud. Yeah, the weather’s turning on us. [Music] I think I think you should put your pants on as well, don’t you? Possibly. But then if we look to the left, it’s blue skies and that’s I think where we’re headed in once we get around this corner. Feel like we’re heading in the wrong direction. I I’ve been a bit turned upside down. Yeah, I put the compass on. But doesn’t that look pretty awesome? Those uh those mountains. They do, don’t they? We are heading south. Okay, that’s good. That’s the right way. Yeah. Wow, look at this road. Wow. Bosnia’s best. Very windy, too. Yeah, I guess that’s why the weather systems are moving so fast through here. I’ve no idea where we are in, but it looks like these were old factories of some description. They’ve got lots of ventilation in them. I have no idea what that could have been. So, it’s quite a um rural area we’re in now, which you wouldn’t expect as we’re less than 100 km from De Bronik. Yeah. Got some concrete structures. Again, I have no idea if that’s military related or is it something to do with the quarry? Kind of looks like an outpost. It does a little. It’s quite eerie here. It is quite eerie. I mean, whatever was there has totally been destroyed, hasn’t that was a concrete structure. Are we heading up there, Sean? Um, I think so. Yeah, briefly. Oh, there’s another lake there. Yeah, we are heading up there. And according to that, we pick up a very straight road when we get up there. But I can’t really see it myself. It’s quite a climb this. It is quite steep. So I think it must be a 20% gradient. Oh, that’s a good gradient. Emily according to this, we take a sharp left and then it’s a very straight road. Almost looks like it should be a tunnel, but I think it’s a mistake and we have to carry on over the top, but we’ll soon see. Dead end. Oh no, there is a road. Take this hair pin. There’s now that one’s a dead end, but this one we’re taking. Get a better view of the reservoir. I think that is. It looks man-made. It doesn’t look natural that one. Yeah, for sure. I am [Music] Hey, hey, hey. [Music] Heat. [Music] Heat. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Heat. [Music] [Applause] Heat. Heat. Heat. [Music] [Music] I think um we’re riding on um an old train track. I’ve just clicked really cuz there’s lots of those signs we just went past. It’s got like a train and a bicycle. Like it’s now a bicycle route, but that looked like a little train station we went past just before. Could be. I mean, it’s so narrow that it could be a train track. Would we be? Yeah, it looks the right sort of size. That’s the old way to De Brvnik. Um, we’re not going that way. I think we’re going to we’re going to carry on straight. Okay. Oh, yeah. also it has a cycling route. Oh, okay. Yeah, it would be hilarious if we’re not allowed on here. Yeah, this is just for other bicycles. But um yeah, we’re going this way because I think I think that is the quickest way, but we’d have to either um enter Croatia, leave Croatia, and then enter Croatia again, or we take the new bridge that goes all the way around, or we could just go this way, and we just have one entry, which I think is We’re avoiding an extra two border crossings if we go this way. Yeah, exactly. Because if you look at a map, Bosnia only has a very very small amount of coast and it’s either side of it is Croatia. So I think Croatia have now built a bridge around Bosnia onto the island. Um but yeah, it’s quite strange. Have a look at have a look at it on Google Maps. You won’t believe it. Yeah, it is strange that um Croatia as a country is actually separated. It’s like Yeah, there’s a country in between its two countries. I wonder if that’s quite unique. Um I mean I know New Zealand is two islands but there isn’t like that’s a bit different isn’t it when it’s two the group of islands together. I guess it’s like Kalenrad as well being Russia. Uh yeah I guess so. Yeah that’s a good point. Yeah. Oh why look down there? Oh gosh. or like the old little houses. Yeah. With just maybe one or two walls remaining. Yeah. This was so a train track. Yeah, it was, wasn’t it? Yeah, it’s built like a train track. But yeah, that was really cool. The little houses. It’s sad that they’re all dilapidated. Yeah. I wonder what they were cuz there’s no like um road or anything to them. But there is a full village down there. This looks like a station or something, doesn’t it? It does. Yeah. And it would be so close to the train line. There’s a signpost. Guard house viewpoint. It had a phone. Lineman and railway headman who managed the group of railway workers who were maintaining a certain section of the railway lived there. It had a water tank as well. On the left side opposite the guard house. There was a magazine for workers tools and railway wagons. Local trains stopped here. Below in the field is the voive chapel of St. Anna. Oh wow. It’s called the dark side of the cast. H you see that? The dark side of the car. I don’t know. What was this rail link for then? How interesting. Yeah. Interesting. If it’s called the dark side of the cars. Yeah. Might have to take a picture of that and have a little Google later when we’ve got internet. This is quite cool, isn’t it? It is. I wasn’t expecting to find anything today. Right. Should we keep going then? See what else we can find? Yeah. Well, there’s some more of those abandoned houses, those little ones over there. They could be from anything really. They could be from before the Bosnian war. They were like that. They could be because of the Bosnian war. Yeah. But it’s just funny how they’re all just left like they were left in a hurry. Again, it could have been from the genocide, couldn’t it? Could be halfway. Or they could have been workers for the railway and when the railway stopped they they left. Could have been. Yeah. Seems quite elaborate for a railway worker. You know, if they’re building and moving on, you think there’d be something more temporary. Maybe. That’s quite a view, isn’t it? It’s looking very grumpy that sky. Thought Croatia was sunny all the time. That’s what I thought. I also didn’t realize it was this mountainous. We are still in Bos Bosnia Persavina here. But that must be must be Croatia just over there cuz we’re not far now. But yeah, it’s starting the wind is starting to pick up. I think we’re going to get a little bit of a stormy weather soon. It’s all right. We’ve got our stormun. We’re actually approaching the Red Keep soon. We will be. It makes for um It makes for a cool ride though, isn’t it? When you start adding in the weather, it always adds in like an air. It does. It’s very atmospheric, isn’t it? Yeah. Oh, that looks very slippy. It does, doesn’t it? That looks like oil. It does like it hasn’t dried. Don’t trust it. Same again here. grippy. Why is he on your side of the road? Um I think there’s holes in the speed bumps. Ah, okay then. That’s okay. Understandably. I’ve noticed as well since the last day hundreds of these Volkswagen. Are they golfs or polos? I think it’s a Golf. Don’t know. Sorry. But yeah, I have seen so many of them. It must have been a really good year for them cuz they seem to have lasted forever. They’re a cool shape. Oh, we’re back on your train route. Oh, we go. Yeah. I like that train route. I don’t feel like I’m in Europe right now at all. I think it’s the weather and the mountains and it looks like dark and it’s just different than what we’re used to, isn’t it? The different trees, different lampost, different pavements. Everything’s a bit different. And I think it’s the fact that there’s no one else on these roads. Yeah, that is odd. We haven’t come across many cars this afternoon. Oh, this looks like a main road again. Must have just had a huge downpour here. We’ve like either just missed it. Yeah, I think we have just missed it. I’ve got my sunglasses on. I keep thinking it’s like super dark. It’s not actually that dark, is it? It’s pretty dark. Road just disappeared. It did, didn’t it? Literally. That was quite deep. That the sun patches are. here and they need to get that surface laid. Old houses here. I like the brick works of these. Some of these would make beautiful properties restored like grand designs. Yeah. Get cabin here. A lot of uh a lot of decent roads going in here, isn’t there? To really put in a lot of work into the area. Yeah. Nice to see. Nice to see. Right, we can’t be too far off. I think we need to decide in a bit where we’ll stay tonight and uh I know is so expensive. Yeah, it is, isn’t it? And there’s Well, there’s nowhere to park down the bottom, is there? But we could we could maybe stay outside of it. You might even be able to get a taxi in. Or you could always ride the bike in and park it up for the day. But the weather is looking pretty miserable for the next few days. It’s the next week, isn’t it? Yeah. The whole week in this area. But in um Turkey and I think Cotor looked quite good as well, didn’t it? Yeah. Cotor and then the Nike as well, Greece. Yeah. It seemed more south we were, the better the weather is. But then it’s Yeah, it’s getting hot. Yeah. I don’t really know what to do about Drovnik. I mean, what time are we on? It’s only 2:00. Oh, okay. So, we will be there probably within the hour. Um, let’s play it by here for now and we’ll have a look in an hour. I mean, yeah, it would be nice to go back to Davnik and spend the evening there. It’s a cool place. It is, isn’t it? I wonder if it’s um not that busy this time of year as well, which would be good cuz it was heaving the last time we were there. It was. Yeah. I think it’s one of those places though that everyone wants to see. So, it’s always going to be busy. I think we’re going to be on Whoa. I hope that’s even open. I think it’s open. Are we about to get turned around? I don’t know. Surely not. It wasn’t a close sign back there, was it? I don’t I didn’t see a close sign. I feel like I feel like they’d be waving at us at the moment. This is pretty chunky gravel. It is. He’s just grading it at the moment. It’s quite deep. That bit was very deep. Well, maybe. Yeah. And they’ve just done this, haven’t they? Aren’t they lovely? Very smiley and happy and wavy. This bit’s lovely. Yeah. It’s reminding me of India. Yeah. They had some patches like this, didn’t they? Yeah. I see over there. I see brand new tarmac. Oh, yeah. There isn’t. What a what a road this one’s going to be then. This is finished. I know. This might be one of the uh European must rides. Like look at that as well. Like all of the greenery, the the untouched nature of that. It’s really pretty, isn’t it? It’s really pretty. I mean, what tires are we running at the moment, Sean? They’re the 8020s, something like that. They’re the Anaki Adventures, which I think they do pretty well. I hope we haven’t put any grooves in this ready for the tarmac. This This must be ready for tarmac laying, mustn’t it? Yeah, we might be the first people to ride on this. It might be. Yeah, there’s I don’t see any tire marks. Might be some anarchy adventure tread in it. Is it even dry yet? We’re not putting a big groove in it. I hope. No, that would have been funny though. I think you can go a bit faster than that now the road to yourself. So really don’t feel like we should have been riding on this. I take home now actually. I really don’t think this was open. They must have been thinking those crazy English people have come down a closed road. But they weren’t. They didn’t wave at us if to say don’t go down there, did they? No, they were like happy waving, I think. Unless I misinterpreted it. But we actually haven’t seen another car, which is slightly concerning. No. Uh, looks like the road stops again down there. We have to wait and see. Shouldn’t find out. There’s two now. There’s two, dog. Yeah, he’s letting us past, I think. Oh, cool. Is that like a thank you beep or a don’t go any further beep or? I have no idea. I don’t know what’s happening. This is not the day I planned. Okay, the dogs have stopped chasing us now. The road bonus, it I hope we don’t cross into Croatia without having a passport stamp. That could be a problem. No, there’s no way. There’s no way. We’re going to There’s going to This is going to come into a real road any minute now. You really would have thought someone would have stopped us. I’d have thought so, too. Uh, I mean, I don’t have internet to be able to check another route or anything. So, everyone we pass is like smiling, happy, weaving. There’s no way there was a stop sign or anything that we we missed. No, there has been no other cars, no other bikes, nothing on this road. And we both don’t have internet access because we were only going to be in Bosnia for 24 hours. We were like, we won’t bother with an ESM or anything cuz we’re just going to go to the hotel and then come back to Croatia. But it looks like this road could potentially go on for another 8 km like this. Yeah, it’s not it’s not on the GPS, but Cali Moto has it on its um on its app, which is very strange. Who knows? It’s all an adventure. On the road again. We’re not on the road again. Little um sun umbrella there for the workers. That’s nice. I really thought we were just going to like mosey into Croatia. I did too. Yeah. Pop into Debra Nick. So the Cali map says we have like 5 km until we make a turn. So, I’m hoping that that to turn onto a main road. You would imagine so. At least it’s not raining yet. Yeah. Oh, there you go. There’s the Croatian border. And there’s a green light. There’s a green light, which means it is in operation. No way. This is crazy. I cannot believe this is how we’re crossing back into Croatia. It’s unbelievable. I don’t think they’ll be expecting us either. Probably have a easy time at this crossing. And here we are at the Croatian border. I hope they let us through. Yeah, that took a little bit more effort than uh I thought so. Right, camera’s off him. Uhoh. Cannot believe we entered Croatia like that. I don’t know. I wasn’t expecting that. 10 10 km of gravel we did there. It but it was when the um we pulled up to the border and the barrier didn’t open. I thought, “Oh, we have to turn around here now.” I did as well. And what was like a couple of hour ride to De Brvnik has might have turned into like a six-hour detour. Well, here we are back in lovely Croatia. Welcome back to Croatia. Oh, we might have some piggies then. They’re war tugs. That was, wasn’t it? Like um Well, the wild pigs. The balls. Are they wild? Straight onto a little pass. This uh this can’t be that commonly used this uh crossing. They can’t be a very busy uh customs station. No, but the fact that that road was so big and new in Bosnia and then but this is what’s coming from Croatia. It’s not like It’s a good point that M. Yeah. You know, it’s not like it’s connecting up to another mega highway. A mega highway. That was my point. Yeah. Yeah. Is that the sea or is that just some hazy um clouds? No, that’s the sea. That is the sea then. Is it? Yeah. Oh, yeah. We’re literally dropping down onto the coast again. Oh, lovely. Oh, hair pin. Oh, concentration. We made it. Nice lack of barriers there, isn’t there? That is so cool. I enjoyed that though. Solid on gravel. It is. And um then the next set of tires that are going on him are TCK80s from Continental. Nice. Which are 50/50s. I’m so much more comfortable sitting and standing on this than I was on the 1250. When it comes to the off-road, it’s so much easier to stand up. Oh, that’s good. We’re in Slano. It’s another little coastal village. Almost a port town, actually. It’s uh there’s a few people here. I think they’ve just got off that boat, haven’t they? It looks like Yeah, cuz they looked a little bit confused as to what they should do. a little bit like us at the moment. So, I think that’s the end of it. Seems like it. Do you want to stop here for a little bit and have a think about what we’re going to do? No, I want to keep going. Okay. Okay. Because that is an acy cloud and that’s a nasty cloud. Yeah, it’s wild out here today. It is. It’s getting choppy on that sea as well. Oh, there’s some droplets. Rain. I might look for a bit of shelter. Those islands look so cool. So, we’re just arriving in De Bronik in the area. Just over the brow of that hill is the old town, but we’re going to cross over the bridge now. Guessing this might be a windy bridge. Why? It could be windy, couldn’t it? Pick it up. So that cruise ship is mega. What? That cruise ship there is mega. It is, isn’t it? It’s huge. It even makes that other big one look small. It does. That must have Oh, wow. That’s windy. Must have thousands and thousands of people on it, I’d say. Gosh, the celebrity accent. Ooh, it’s that orange thing like a lift that puts the restaurant in the water. Yeah, looks like Looks like it, doesn’t it? Yeah, it does. Yeah. Quite cool. Unbelievably windy today. It was really windy last time we were here as well. It sure is strange people just leaving their bikes there. Yeah, they just parked them in the tunnel. It’s just started to rain, so we got here just in time. We still don’t have a hotel booked or anything, but I think we’ll just see if we can find a petrol station or ideally a coffee shop or restaurant or something and pull in and have a little look around. But last time we were here, the hotel that we stayed at, um it was a nightmare. It was a nightmare park. Yeah, it really was, wasn’t it? I’m going to pop down here then, I guess. Yep. So, we were going to turn down into the main city area. Well, the traffic here is hell. Okay. Um, so we pulled into a fuel station and have booked the cheapest hostel with a um a private room that we could uh which is about another kilometer away from here. Um, which means we’re probably around three kilometers away from Dravnik old town, but anything close. One, it hasn’t got parking to keep the bike safe, and two, it’s coming out at like€300 to €200 a night. Yeah, it’s a no-brainer, isn’t it? Little half an hour walk into town later, maybe. Yeah. And I stumbled across this place, and it does say that it has garage parking. Now, if it does, that will be by some sort of miracle again. I think distance-wise it’s not far. It’s just that it’s so gridlocked through here that it’s taking a bit of time to get through. Oh, yeah. Hostel soul entrance hostel soul. Don’t think you were supposed to come up here with the bike before there was entrance. Oh, maybe not. We’re here at Hostel Soul and there’s bike parking underground. So, Storm is safely away. We actually got a kitchen there that we can use. And the rooms are here. And the rooms here are absolutely spectacular. Bathroom. There’s an Emily getting settled in. How lovely is it? I know. This is this is classed as a host, isn’t it? They call themselves a hostel, but it’s beautiful. And we have a sea view out onto what I think is the Drovnik Marina or the Drovnik port. And actually, they leave uh the fairies leave from here to over to the island. So, you can like go straight over a good little base for that, is it too? Yeah. But we’ve got the cruise ships down there, which we saw when we first arrived. But what a find at this hotel. It is a more premium price, but comparatively with Dravnik, it is a good price. Um, so overall, I’m very happy. We’re going to stay here for one night. We were going to stay in De Bronik for two nights. It’s an amazing city to explore for a day. Um, but with the price of it and the fact that the weather is really poor here, uh, I think we’re going to move on towards Cotor. But tonight, I think we might take a wander down to Drovnik. I think it’s about 3 km away. Um, and then wander back. So, it’ll be nice to stretch our legs and have a walk. But I’m dying for a shower and then I think we’ll head on out to Dravnik. Right, we’re taking a 3 km walk to the old town of Dravnik. Uh it was actually quite a nice walk where it stopped raining. Yeah. Got to see the coast as we walked around. So it was quite nice. Yeah, it’s a really nice coastline. But now we’re going to enter the old town city gates. It is as impressive as I remember it. He’s really smart. Although it’s also a little bit more busy than I remember. It is packed in here. I I can’t imagine it peak summer. I I I don’t want to imagine how busy it is. And it’s like 6:00 now, isn’t it? Where most people are leaving, I think. Yeah. I think that’s why it was a bit busier outside the gates cuz I think that’s when the coaches come. I do remember from last time we were here, we said that the best time that we were here was like 9 till midnight cuz you have the place and then 5:00 a.m. in the morning. But then when we came early last time, they were like washing the streets and collecting all the rubbish. But it was still good. It was still nice for photography, but here we are now. Wow. Mission one in Dravnik complete. I’m happy with this one. This one is a great one. It’s a good one. This one €350, which is average price. Patch price that one. I’m very happy with this one. I still need a flag of Croatia though, so I’m still technically on the lookout. But we’ve wandered straight down the main street and we’re heading towards the sea now. Can kind of see a little bit up here. That one’s being restored there. We got the clock tower at the end and I think we’re going to head in that direction next. Anywhere you want to go specifically here. Not really. Just to the water, I think is um the nice bit. We did walk around the walls last time, but I think I think it’s like 15 or 20 now. 40 to walk on the walls. I think it’s like 40 and you get to go into a museum and thing like it’s like a package deal now, but when we were here it was 25 because I remember us having the conversation of we can we afford to do this 25 each €50 it’s a lot of money so um yeah €40 each but I think that is the devnik path so maybe you get more things with it just through here should be the outer wall I think you can walk around there to the other side along the water. Okay, let’s do it. For the record, I don’t think this is a good idea. Fast. Ah, there’s a reason that nobody’s on this bit. There’s people. [Laughter] So, we are right down by the water and the waves are crashing like crazy. It’s such rough sea out there today. But Sean is absolutely in his element here. It is everything that he loves in a place. It is culture. It’s history. It’s war. It’s cinematography and photography and Game of Thrones. It’s honestly just Sean’s place hands down. He loves it. Loves it here. So, he’s taking a lot of photos and we’re going to have another wander around now back through to uh the other side of town. Let’s go. [Music] Heat. [Music] Heat. [Applause] [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] So what’s the verdict on deproven? I think it’s somewhere of course you should come and see. It’s um it’s pretty stunning place. It is packed of course because of that. Well, I reckon if you came in the winter though, like really offse a lot of places be closed, but you might just be able to have the city almost to yourself. But, uh, yeah, a bit too many people for our liking. Yeah. But the city you love, right? Well, yeah, the city, the the fort. Yeah, it’s fantastic. It’s actually um this place also got caught up in the conflict as well. There is evidence of bullet holes on all the walls inside. I think it took quite a heavy assault. Um, it was assaulted from the sea, from the air, and also from land as well. So, I think the the siege of JBnik was pretty bad. But, um, they’ve done a great job of restoring the city and bringing it back to its former glory for the watch. Right, we’re leaving the city walls of Jonik now. It was really great to come back here again. Yeah, I’m really happy that we got to spend a few hours here. Also a bit sad that we didn’t get to spend tomorrow here, but it makes sense for us to move on cuz tomorrow we’ve got another cool day. We’re actually heading towards Montenegro. Yeah, that’s another really special country and I like that. And the special place that I hoped we’re going to get to is Cotor, which yeah, it’s becoming more and more well known is Cotor. It’s no secret, but it is a it is a great place to visit. Uh, and there is a road at Cotor that we missed last time called the Serpentine Road, which is loads of switchbacks heading up the mountain. So, we’re going to head that way, see if we can get to the Bay of Cotor, ride around there. And that is our plan for tomorrow. As for tonight, we’ve got a 3 and 1 half km walk back to the hotel. It’s all right. No, it’s going to be nice. If the weather holds off, it should be a nice stroll back. So, we’ll see you all in the next episode as we continue our round the world trip and head to Montenegro.
26 Comments
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Exelent. Welcome to my cauntry Bosnia and Herzegovina
The scene where your getting chased by the dogs ,brought back memories for me of riding my motorbike in the late 70s early 80s and being chased by a 3 legged dog in Cornwall on a regular basis….Long before dogs had to be kept on leads lol…
Being in Mostar and not stopping by the world spiritual center Medjugorje, which is visited by millions of people from all over the world, is a big mistake, maybe next time…🛵🌍↩⤵
Mostar is not in Bosnia , Mostar is in Hercegovina !
👍👍👍 🏍️
Your videos are great, but they are too long. You would get a lot more traction and more views if you made each video shorter than 30 mins. Not even Ewan McGregors latest adventures are as long as yours. Check out Itchy Boots and Marc Travels, they get far more traction and their videos are much shorter than yours.
Enjoyed the walking part, too 👌
Awesome place. Enjoyed travelling with you.
Awesome video! Sean – my compliments on your riding skills on the dirt and gravel. I have spent seat time on mountain trails in Colorado (my home) and deserts in southeastern Utah – you make it look easy especially on that big bike . . . the quality of the route just keeps getting better for exploring off the beaten path. Also appreciate the comments and reflections on the Bosnia conflict – it is important that we remember these events. many thanks and travel safe . . . .
Hey Sean & Emily,
Sorry, I've been away (out of country), hence my disappearance for a bit anyway, from your videos. Back now, and slowly catching up wroth all your videos. Have to say, I've not been to Bosnia & Herzegovina, but looks beautiful & laid back from your videos. Lots of forest/greenery, which I love too. That was indeed a "lesser known" route to get to the border with Croatia!! Looks almost deserted, in fact.
The fort was lovely. We have plenty of forts here in India too, esp Maharashtra & Rajasthan. Until the next video, then.
Ride safe & tc. ❤
Hey I saw a sign that said closed to all traffic!!! LOL That looked like a lot of fun. Great Episode guys!!!
Great video👍🇧🇪
Month1 aniversary coffees!
I enjoy the snippets of history behind the places you visit. I get so excited when you surprise us with each episode.
great video again! Nice gravel handling with all that lugage. Drive safe!
Nice! 👍 "Motorcycle Touring Around The World 🌎"
I've just got back from the balkans and stopped in mostar and then headed north through Bosnia following a lovely river road route toward Lake Plitvice. Enjoy your travels. Back in Liverpool now though and missing it already. Ps I also did the secret road into Slovenia and loved it
Beautiful duo🌹🌹
Great video, Guys! And well done on the gravel, I'm sure that wasn't planned but makes for a good story and additional adventure, as Emily said. And thanks for the little history lesson at the beginning as well. I, too, hope the peace that is so fragile, holds.
Another non stressful day for you, wonderful countryside and next to no traffic – amazing.
Something to remember definitely that unpaved road into Croatia, cool! Talking about ear plugs, I was wondering what are you guys using. I’ve been trying many different solutions but nothing seems to be great in the end. Would love to ear your experiences with that. Cheers guys!
Any plans riding in California? Frm LA
We love your advenure and follow it closely. One small question how do you ride and still use a drone? Good luck😀
Menudo viaje os estáis pegando !
Me podríais decir qué carretera es la que estaba en obras , vamos en menos de 1 mes y quería descartarla .
Muchas gracias y disfrutar