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Marseille, la vie en bleu – Échappées belles 22 octobre 2016
La cité phocéenne et ses alentours voient la vie en «bleue». Jérôme Pitorin part en escapade à Marseille et profite des charmes de la deuxième ville de France. Elue capitale européenne de la culture en 2013, elle a été propulsée sur le devant de la scène et se retrouve aujourd’hui sacrée l’une des destinations les plus «branchées» du monde. Le journaliste globe-trotteur débute son périple par Marseille intra muros, sa Bonne Mère, son Panier mais aussi ses quartiers rénovés, avant de sillonner la côte Bleue jusqu’à Martigues avant de s’enfoncer dans l’univers de Marcel Pagnol. Au sommaire : Dans les profondeurs de la «Grande Bleue» 24 heures sur le Vieux Port «Tu tires ou tu pointes ?»/ La course de légende Marseille-Cassis L’éternelle Provence de Marcel Pagnol Salon-de-Provence : une histoire de la Patrouille de France.
It’s truly magnificent. Hello. This week, I’m taking you to the Côte Bleue, which lives up to its name. Marseille, the vibrant city of Marseille, and its surroundings will be truly celebrated in my journey through the Bouches-du-Rhône. So, I invite you to discover different facets of this magnificent region through its festivities, its unique features, and also its personalities. You’ll see that those who will accompany me are certainly not lacking in character. So, a dose of sunshine, azure skies, and good cheer—welcome to my beautiful getaways. Jérôme is going to take a deep dive into the Mediterranean today. Great, that’s perfect, Jérôme, well, not sure he’s taking all the risks. What’s it like? Three floors of a building under the Marseille sun, Jérôme sets off in pursuit of Provençal happiness. Here, we’re in the heart of the countryside, there’s no rain, just blue skies, cicadas, there’s… It’s a religion. So, that’s it, it’s when you’re born and they teach you to play boules, you play boules your whole life. There you go. Before imitating them, he can first observe them. We’re off, we’re giving it a super push. Life in blue from the sky to the sea, it’s the big leap. It’s the first time I’m going to do it. You’re crazy. So listen, I’ll put you down at 1:30 PM. If you have any problems, you call me back. Okay. Yes. How many of you are there in total, Josine? Six people and six big faces, that’s right. Come on, with pleasure, don’t worry. I’ll take care of it. Good morning, sir. Hi Jérôme. Pleased to meet you. Didier, how are you, Jérôme? Great. Very happy to be at the good in Marseille. I welcome you, big brother . Good morning. Okay then, guys, we’re in Marseille. We’re in Marseille. We’re in the 8th arrondissement of Marseille. The far south of Marseille. For me, the most beautiful place in Marseille. Most beautiful. Yeah. Yeah. I sense an absolutely insane objectivity from you. Total objectivity. There’s not a hint of chauvinism. Not at all. Not at all. Yeah. How long have you lived here ? Uh, I’m 46. So I’ll be 46 in September. I’ve lived here for 46 years. Oh yeah. My father was born here, my grandfather was born here, my great-grandfather was born here. How long have you been running the business? So here’s the bar and across the street is the restaurant. There’s the bar and the restaurant. So that makes, well, we’re in the 16th year. Be careful with the trays. Oh yeah, yeah. That’s the danger. But they know it anyway, they ‘re used to it. Ah, a lovely room there. Oh, the view! Wow! That’s something that can change. I’ve been seeing this for, uh, 46 years . And of course, I’m not jaded at all, I’m amazed every day. Every day is different. How long ago was that? That’s where the debate comes in because we all discuss it at the bar; it was between ’51 and ’53. So at the time, there weren’t any of the dikes yet, there was just this first dike that was here. But you see, even if this photo is a little over 60 years old, frankly, I think the village is… Oh yes, it really has remained a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Now we’re in the national park’s buffer zone, we’re still well protected by the French heritage authorities. For me, it’s the aesthetic side of Les Goudes that I like the most. It’s beautiful today, but this aesthetic, for me, is the most beautiful. Yeah. We’re in the heart of the village. Ah, this is called Rue du Louvre. These were the fishermen’s huts, or their families’ huts, of course. Yeah. And most of the time, the spinning sheds were in their house. Okay. They lived like shepherds with their sheep. And the fishermen, they lived with their nets. Yeah, exactly. And then, but on the other hand, you still have a life of a hut life. Uh, hello sir. Hello. Where people, well, there you go, in fact, the street is the common terrace for all the huts. Okay. Yes, that’s it. It’s the extension of the house. The laundry extension. These are little huts. There you go. This is really the Goudes hut where now they are, you see, there are houses, they have They’ve been renovated and restored, but these are very narrow streets like this, and now we’re heading towards the port, that works. And Robin Hood came by and forgot his gear, huh? Yeah. You see, this is my childhood playground. Yeah. You were on the boats a lot. A lot on the boats. A lot on the quayside, that’s where my first crushes were. The meeting point was the quayside, the fisherman’s place. In the evenings, we’d sit there, putting the world to rights and planning our future. It was really… there’s a real emotional connection. So, Jérôme, look, I’d like you to meet Gill, fisherman, friend, neighbor. The whole package. Hi Gill. Well, there you go. You’re just in time, you’re the only one left. I saved you two, two nice hats, and, uh, like that, Marseille style, you have to exaggerate a bit. Yes, that’s it. Yes. Two big capons. I can’t wait to see them because it’s a real treat, we’ll see, we’ll see if they live up to expectations. So, like he told you, like that, big chap, like that. I like it, I like it, but not too much. No, no, it’s the crate that’s like that. [ __ ] The more it makes me rich. You see, this is the magnificent fish soup. All this fish is what makes the fish soup good. The fish soup will be good if we have a multitude of different fish and exclusively rockfish. Essentially that. We call it chodi, the small rockfish that gives a fantastic taste to fish soup. Are these the capons? Yeah, they’re the capons. From capon and capon. This is essentially for the stock. Thanks anyway. Thank you very much. We don’t see each other. There, I’m finishing this and have a good day. Bye, have a good day. Thanks, see you later. A little while ago, we just went to Gile. Hello. This is for you. Perfect. For the soup. Great. And this is for me. I’ll keep it. Great. Perfect. There you go. And there. Okay, I’ll leave you this for the soup. Come on, let me show you something else. When you live in Les Goudes, you really feel like a Marseillais. You feel it. You’re Marseillais in your head, you’re a Goudo in your heart. It’s already pretty here. Yeah. And for me, this is where we have the most beautiful view of Les Goudes. Yeah. Here because you have the view of Les Goudes and on the other side of the sea of the islands. Oh yeah, the panoramic view there. Wow! It’s a feast for the eyes, isn’t it? Ah, it’s great. And there’s Marseille in the distance. That’s the good sea we see in the distance. Ah, that’s the good sea. Yeah. Yeah. Okay. I sit down, I enjoy the view. Listen, I’m going to sit down with you because even you don’t take the time to do this. Hundreds of times, I’ve been up here. Yeah. And despite that, I’m always amazed. And you always take the time to do it, all the time. And I always enjoy it so much, especially. Always enjoy it so much because I’m home here. Here, I’m really home, you see. Uh, there’s a touch of nostalgia in my words. Yeah. Because this is where my father was, this is where my family was, this is where my friends were. I’ve lost quite a few friends. But there you have it, this is a playground. It’s the playground of a lifetime. Just a few hundred meters from the Marseille coast, the depths of the Mediterranean offer a fabulous spectacle of underwater reefs, shipwrecks, and shallows teeming with colorful marine life. Every year, thousands of amateur divers come to discover the treasures of the Mediterranean. We’re going to follow a handful of enthusiasts who have decided to feel the heartbeat of the Mediterranean, far from the tourist trails. Here we are on the quays of the Pointe Rouge port in Marseille. That morning, in front of a group of trainee divers, Morgan Bourkis, the world record holder for freediving, is giving a rather unusual lesson. Try it yourself and choose, for example, a little rhythm. Click, click, click. With Morgan, trainees from all over France come to hone their skills, controlling the air circulating in their bodies to improve their freediving. If you want to start going a little deeper… And to do things properly, it’s interesting to understand all the mechanisms so you can do them better and truly access the depths you desire. After the words of the wise man, it’s time for practical exercises. Well, welcome aboard. And here we go. We’re heading to the Décalan Park, half an hour from Marseille. An ideal playground for all freedivers. The advantage of freediving is the simplicity of accessing the sea without cumbersome equipment, allowing you to be as natural and free as possible underwater . But it requires a certain condition because it has to be earned. These are the ropes I’m setting up, which will be attached to a fairly heavy weight to ensure they are taut and vertical. You don’t just dive into the blue anywhere, any old way. They will have to follow this line, which is a bit like their lifeline. Morgan has been defying the laws of freediving for 18 years. A world champion in 2013, he recently reached a depth of 110 meters without fins, weighted only by a lead belt. For him, the Mediterranean is a paradise that allows him to push all the limits of freediving. It also offers unique shades of color. I’ve been lucky enough to travel quite a bit with competitions, to go to all corners of the world to dive, and the blue in the Mediterranean is quite something and not the same as elsewhere. It’s quite something, perhaps deeper. It’s, well, it doesn’t necessarily have much to envy in tropical seas when the conditions are very good. While Morgan focuses on his tête-à -tête with the Mediterranean, other enthusiasts crisscross the sea in search of treasures. Serge, Gérard, and Pierre are divers and archaeologists. For years, they have been tracking shipwrecks and cataloging the historical remains that lie at the bottom of the sea off Marseille . Yeah, you know, over there, that’s the Planier lighthouse. So this is a site that ‘s really great for diving because in ancient times, it was n’t marked out. So you’ll find concentrations of shipwrecks all around the island of ancient wrecks. Underwater archaeology was actually born here. It was at the foot of this island that underwater archaeology was born in France. These were the first shipwrecks that were excavated. I think every prospector retains a childlike spirit, a treasure-hunting spirit. I think we’ve remained, in fact, big kids, and I think it’s really cool to have kept that childlike wonder because it’s what keeps you young, in a way. It’s incredibly enjoyable. At a depth of 45 meters, Serge and Pierre enjoy a short dive alongside this Messer Schmid 109, a German aircraft shot down by the Americans in 1944. Legend has it that the pilot managed to escape the cockpit before his plane sank in seconds. Left to the whims of time, the wreck now serves as a refuge for marine life . From antiquity to the Second World War, the vestiges of 2,000 years of history lie on the seabed of Marseille’s harbor. I think that even with 10 divers diving morning and evening, we’d never find everything in the harbor. It’s incredibly rich. It’s simply amazing. Whether explored with scuba gear or freediving, the deep blue sea can offer the most curious divers an infinite number of unexpected treasures. both in shallow waters and at accessible depths. Are you doing well? Are you doing well? Great. You had a beautiful sail there, a beautiful monohull. Thank you. It’s part of what we call your fleet. My large fleet of nine boats. There you go. Welcome to the pogo. So we have everything inside, forward and aft cabins, a toilet, and then a small galley here. Nice. Small fridge, coffee-making facilities. So we have fun and at the same time We’ve got the comfort. Yeah, I like it. I love sailing. You come aboard with the line. And when I tell you to take it up here, to let it run free. There, engine running. Go ahead, let it all run free. There, perfect. And off we go. Ah, I’m glad to see the sails up here. It’s always a gamble, isn’t it? When we go to sea, with a sailboat, we need enough wind to set the sail. Then we have winds that vary quite quickly here. Yeah. But we’re lucky today. It’s the main wind, it’s the mistral. So, you have to go to the other side of the mast. You have a blue line. This one, this line there, it comes out of the mast. You’re going to pull on it, that’ll raise the sail. There. And I ‘ll take it up here as I go. And when you’re ready, you tell me, “I’m OK.” Are you ready? Okay, let’s go. Great, perfect, fantastic. We can turn off the engine. Yes! There we go, let’s enjoy it. And now, we just have the gentle lapping of the waves. So, do you like it? Oh, I love it. I’d go out on a boat if I could. I think one day I’ll buy a boat. I suggest you take the helm. Oh, with pleasure. You sit in my seat. There you go. You try to aim for the lighthouse over there. That’s the Planier lighthouse. So what I find interesting about your company’s concept is that you allow people to rent a boat for the day, a bit like renting a Vélibre or an Autolipe . It’s an alternative to ownership, actually. Since I don’t have a bike, well, I use Vélibres, which are fleet-sharing systems. On motorboats, it’s starting to catch on a little, but, uh, on sailboats, it didn’t exist because it’s quite complex. That’s exactly it. I don’t have a boat, so I’m taking out a subscription. I book my sailboat by clicking on the booking platform, and when I arrive at the dock, I just go. Nothing to do. There you go. How much does it cost for 24 hours for a boat like that? A boat like that costs €360. We’ll sleep in the coves, have breakfast at sunrise, come back to the old port, it cost us €360. Okay. Oh yeah, so it’s relatively affordable. That’s great. We’re tacking. Come on, come on, let’s go. You can take the boat. Yeah, there you go. Pull, pull again on your tiller. Pull again. There we go. Yeah, very good. Jérôme, we’re arriving at Friou, the archipelago of the Friou islands. There are four Friou islands, right? There are four islands. Exactly. There’s the castle, and then Tiiboulin, which is a small island on the other side. There you go. It’s really, really beautiful here. The light really hits the pale rock. It’s very pretty. This is the Calangue des Cambrettes. There are quite a few coves like this one all around the islands of the Friou archipelago. There you go, this is a district of Marseille. Welcome. Welcome to Marseille. That’s right, I’d heard that too. Yeah, you can have some very pleasant swimming moments. Yeah , it’s really, really beautiful, isn’t it? Well, Grégoire, thank you for the gift. It’s my first time entering the old port at the helm of a sailboat. Well, in any case, you’ve done a great job, you’ve done it well. Beautiful gift. Beautiful gift. Thank you. What’s quite unique about Marseille is that when you arrive at the Old Port, you really have all the city’s symbols right there in view. Don le Musem, you were saying Fort Saint-Jean, that’s exactly it, Fort Saint-Jean, which is right there marking the entrance to the port. And there ‘s Notre-Dame de la Garde, the “Good Mother,” at the top of the hill. Yeah. Under the watchful gaze of Notre-Dame de la Garde, the Old Port awakens at 8 a.m. every morning. It’s animated by the unmissable bustle of the fishermen and fishmongers selling their catch of the day to the public. “Come on, a bunch of red snapper there, €9.” Behind this colorful and theatrical postcard scene that sets the rhythm of life in the Old Port are passionate people, lovers of the place who live there, admire it, and constantly rediscover it. Yannick Lon is a skipper and a history buff. He was born and raised here. For him, the Old Port is his little corner of paradise. At the port entrance, he feels like he’s entering a fairytale world. He opens the door and steps into Disneyland. “What’s happening?” he wonders. There’s always something magical about it. And it’s so majestic that the beauty lies simply in watching. Usually, in the late morning, when the Old Port comes alive, he enjoys sharing the rich history of this place with his friends. This heart of the city, a 24-hectare rectangular basin, has witnessed 2,600 years of maritime and commercial history. Marseille has always been a major economic port, its importance fluctuating over time, and it remains a major economic port. Respect, young man. So, this is exactly the kind of boat that was used back then to transport goods, like ferries to the Friou Islands, to the Catalonia Islands, and so on. This is a typical example of a boat that sails very well. Yannick knows everything there is to know about the history of the Old Port. Like the city itself, this port is unique in the Mediterranean because it has always welcomed people from all over the world. The Old Port symbolizes openness, it symbolizes the arrival of many different peoples. There were the Pied-Noirs, there were the Indochinese, the 141s, all the ships that left here for the soldiers, all the repatriated people, all the people who left, who were fleeing, and so on. It has always been a welcoming city. We still see that today. Marseille is a city that symbolizes, in my opinion, the union of many peoples. It’s not a single people. The Old Port attracts and fascinates. It appeals to those seeking a gentler, better life. In search of year-round sunshine, Anne Flo and Perceval left her native Champagne region a few years ago. She bought this apartment on the 3rd floor of a building overlooking the old port. The ferry is my grandchildren’s delight. Oh, Christian, I must say! What would you like? A crunchy biscuit or a navette? Between coffees with her friends, often in the early afternoon, Anne loves to enjoy the breathtaking view of the old port, this open-air theater. It’s a window onto… it’s a constant spectacle, isn’t it? Every second is different because it’s life, of course. So, you have both the water and the light. You have all these boats and often the passage of very beautiful sailboats or large yachts. Well, so it vibrates and is constantly alive. For me, Marseille is feminine; it has strength, but also lightness, subtlety, and femininity. I really feel that way. It’s fascinating. With its old port, the city is so captivating that John Pandry loves to spend his afternoons exploring it. But it’s absolutely perfect online. Franco-British, John Pandry has been marveling like a child on the quays of the old port for over 40 years. It’s beautiful. While most people pass by the boats in the old port with indifference, John is glued to the ships and boats moored there. That’s a bar in Marseille. It’s of Italian origin. It was the Italians who came to Marseille who created this style of boat. 3,200 pleasure boats are moored in the old port, and that’s just as many reasons for John to stop and observe them. You have everything from large luxury yachts to tiny dinghies, from prestigious racing sailboats to everyday sailboats. It’s a whole mix of things. When I see a battle like that, it doesn’t interest me that much, but when it’s at sea, then it’s something else entirely. John Pendry isn’t your average boat enthusiast. He belongs to one of the most prestigious brotherhoods in France, the Society of Marine Painters. He’s commissioned by the French Navy to paint ships and travel the world. But his source of inspiration remains Marseille, its Old Port, and its extraordinary light. Leaving the old port, there are all these magnificent sailboats watching. What’s particularly striking is this brilliant, sparkling light— the sky is beautiful, and especially when there’s a certain darkness, it can be absolutely incredible. And the sunset seen from the port, the port is well-positioned. Superb sunsets, unforgettable sunsets. That’s also what Yannick and his friends come looking for at the end of the day. There’s a sunset there, go see it, it’s a shame to miss it. Here, I have landmarks, points of reference, and it’s constantly renewed. It’s always different. I think I’m only at the beginning, actually, I’m only at the beginning of discovering the city. So, a toast to summer. With its contrasts and its strong character, the old port perfectly illustrates the colors of the city of Foix. There, I’m going to resume the arrival maneuver. I’ll set myself up right where you are so I can see you, hand on the throttle at the same time. No problem. And there, we can already see Marie on the dock, she’s with me, she’s going to show me around Marseille. There you go, I’ve learned a few things. OK. Finally, we’re on dry land. Hello Marie. This is Mariepagne. Thank you Jérôme, thank you. I’m glad to be here. It’s great here. He let me take the helm. I felt like a child who’d just entered the old port like that. Great. Really great. Thanks again Grégoire. You’re welcome. And I’m keeping my fingers crossed for the rest of Cy. Thank you. Bye. Have a good trip. Enjoy your visit. Thank you. Here we are in Marseille with the mistral wind blowing. This change of atmosphere is great. Going from the old stone to the ultramodern Museum of Marseille. Here, it looks like metal because it’s concrete mixed with metal fiber. Musem stands for Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations. And Mediterranean. That’s it. That also changed a lot, the fact that Marseille was the European Capital of Culture in 2013, which led to the creation of this museum and many other things. It gave the city a new lease of life. Yeah, completely. We followed the redevelopment of the Old Port, and so it brought in a new population , and indeed, it’s this combination of elements that gives the city its dynamism. There, it’s this way. I’ll let you slide. Oh yeah! Oh yes, there’s a bit of a toboggan feel to it that I like. The Marseille toboggan with wheels. Very good. So, watch your fingers. Yes, I need both my feet too. Titi, this little electric car is nice. What do you use this car for? Mainly to go to the beach. Yeah. And now, I’m taking you to Cours Julien, which is a bit higher up than the Old Port. Okay. Marie, you work for an architecture firm or something? Yes, that’s right. I’m a project manager at an agency in Marseille. So, what kind of projects do you work on? Well, for example, recently the Mustè archives, an art school, a district court. Oh yes, okay. Yes. So, here we are at the Cours Julien market, and for those in the know, we call it Courjus here. There you go, it’s a bit of an electric place, uh, a bit… yeah. It’s one of the liveliest neighborhoods, both day and night. It’s primarily an artistic area. You go out and you want to stumble upon an impromptu concert, you stop. It’s a bit of a public gathering place for all kinds of people. It’s one of the energy sources of Marseille. There you go, it’s part of it. It’s one of the central hubs of Marseille, in any case. Wow, it’s decorated here. There are some nice murals, aren’t there? It’s really well done, anyway. It’s great. An exhibition street practically in a museum. There are even a lot of shopkeepers who actually ask graffiti artists to come. So, Marseille still suffers from a rather harsh image. We often talk about things that… Yeah, unfortunately, not things that aren’t great, and that’s not the case at all. In any case, What we hear isn’t at all the everyday life of someone from Marseille. There you go. This building is truly unique. Yeah, it’s really iconic. And it was Le Corbusier who designed it? Yes. When did he design it? Well, it was the 50s. Ah, the 50s or 60s. Well, thank you, Marie. I’ll walk you back to the car because I’m off now. I’m going to meet the owner of the restaurant, La Boîte à Sardines. I don’t know if you’re familiar with it. Oh yeah, very good. You know it? Yeah, yeah, it’s very good. Okay. OK. Hello. Hello. Hello. I’m looking for Fabien at the fish shop. The owner is here. Oh, I’m very well, and you? Great. Are you feeling good? Ah, very good. I’m happy to discover your place. Well, La Boîte à Sardines. There you go, it’s great. Thank you. The concept is cool. So, what’s the idea? It’s a fish shop, a restaurant, what is it? Basically, I consider myself a fishmonger because I work with the fishermen, you know? So I have my fish shop, and then you supply the restaurant. So you sell retail to customers who don’t come to eat at your place, and at the same time you sell fish, and you can also eat there yourself. Great. Yeah. So what are you preparing now? I’m preparing a John Dory. Okay, I’ll let you finish, I took a quick look. Go ahead. Anyway, you can talk to the team, they’ll show you, and then it’s all good. Enjoy your meal. You’re out of practice. We can say that. We can say that to you? Yeah. What do you come looking for when you come to Fabien’s? Fish. Yes. Only? We only come for the fish. Dad’s humor. Humor. Yeah. Ah, you’re funny. I’ll try. That’s tuna ham. Yeah, okay. So, actually, this is my red color, and downstairs, I have a smoker where I smoke with breadcrumbs. Okay. Here ‘s a little tomato rogail. Céline made that in the back. Oh yeah, Céline, the chef in the kitchen. Yeah. That’s sea spinach. And so this is strathatel. We found a cheesemaker who has Italian cheese from Rockfort la Bédoule and who works with milk from the PA region, making only Italian cheeses. That looks good. Wow, that’s not bad. It makes a little bruschetta. They only use products from local fishing. I’ve always wanted to work with fish. Always. I could have been a fisherman eventually. Yeah. Besides, I like cat. Maybe on a fisherman’s boat, maybe I would have quickly circled the whole boat, I think. So, here, it’s a bit of a turn . So we can talk with people and then you share with me the love of fish. Thanks to Céline, we put it on the plate. Okay, let’s taste that. Yeah, with pleasure. I’d never put the ” very good” part before. Not bad, huh? Yeah, it’s very good. Every year, in October, a unique and legendary footrace takes place, bringing together 15,000 runners. It connects the city of Marseille to Cassis over 20 km. An unmissable event, it offers the best runners in the world the opportunity to cross the Marseille metropolitan area, to overlook sublime landscapes that overlook the calanques, and to arrive in the heart of the charming little fishing port of Cassis. Bruno, Patrick, and Joseph have all run the Marseille-Cassis race dozens of times. During a training session, we asked these former elite athletes to explain the key stages of this race. The start is here, at the foot of the famous Vélodrome stadium. No one can ignore the existence of Olympique de Marseille, and the Vélodrome stadium is legendary for everyone. It truly represents something in Marseille. So, for us too, it’s symbolic to have the Marseille-Cassi race start at the foot of the Vélodrome stadium. With the Vélodrome stadium behind the runners, they set off along the famous Boulevard Michelet for a long, straight 2km stretch. It looks easy because it’s a long straight, but it ‘s actually a slight uphill, so there’s a bit of a challenge for those who tend to go out a little too fast. Quickly, uh, it could get difficult later on. The next part looks tough. The race heads towards the Col de la Gineste, located at 327 meters altitude. A grueling 5km climb in full sun leads the runners to a view overlooking the city of Marseille. So here we are, halfway up the Col de la Gineste. We’ve done roughly half the climb, but we’re still 2km from the summit. So we’re starting to catch our breath and feel the first challenges of the race. It’s a mix of effort and beautiful scenery. So it gives our hearts a bit of a boost. Seeing this beautiful landscape helps us. It helps us keep going and reach the top. The 330m of elevation gain completes the climb. Now for a long, sublime descent, just a few dozen meters off the slope. The runners never tire of it. The passion for running Marseille-Cassis is still there. It’s something extraordinary. The setting, the race atmosphere, it’s truly something magical. And it’s true that we think that with time the passion will fade, that we’ll get a little tired of doing this race, but no, we’re still motivated, and it’s the big race of the October back-to-school season , and after 20 km, it’s pure liberation. The runners arrive in the port of Kassis. The best finish the race in under an hour, the last in 3 hours. Everyone is aware that they’re entering an exceptional setting. It’s this finish at the port that’s so unique. There aren’t many races in the world where the finish line is like that, in a small port. So, once you arrive there, you realize the beauty of the village, and all you want to do is dive into the deep blue sea. With this finish line, right on the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, it’s no wonder the Marseille-Cassis race has been a phenomenal success for 37 years. Okay, let’s get this show on the road. I hope, I hope we’ll get a close look. You see, Cassis is a little gem of the Mediterranean. So, Cassis is a small town that must multiply in the summer with all the people who come here. That’s it. It’s a tiny village of 6,500 year-round inhabitants that can accommodate 30,000 to 35,000 people in the summer. Yeah. Here we’re in what’s called the Massif Décalant. You won’t find this rock and this geological environment anywhere else. 1 km from here, it doesn’t exist to the right. And 2 km from here, it doesn’t exist either. OK? So, you’re a reference in diving and altitude, do you think that if you hadn’t grown up in Cassi, you would have been interested in this sport? That seems impossible to me. Yeah. Besides, the Calang massif has some of the most beautiful diving spots in the world. I’m not just saying that in Marseille, you know. It’s the truth. Acapouco, which is a world-renowned international reference, they have a spot that’s 22 meters deep, no more. Here, we have our limits. If I had the technique to dive from 50 meters, I’d have everything I need. That’s not the case. But I’ll show you a few things later, I’ll explain everything, don’t worry. Hey Captain, there’s a navigation problem here? We’re passing Pointe Cacao. Oh, Pointe Cacao! Pointe Cacao. That’s why it’s tricky. So here we are at the tip of the Cacao headland. It’s our little Marseilles cape, isn’t it? Indeed, when we pass this shaded area, it starts to get a bit choppy. Yeah, here we’re entering this famous cove, which is the most beautiful cove in the national park. It’s the Calangue d’Enveau. What do you call it? Enveau Enveau. It’s majestic. There are two 100-meter drop-offs on either side. Yeah. There’s what we call the Finger of God, which is a peak that rises to 90 meters. There’s this magical little beach. So, you see there opposite, Jérôme, we have Cap Canaille. It’s one of the highest cliffs in maritime Europe, 400 meters. Wow! Well, all this is beautiful, Jérôme, but me I have a class with some little kids. A class on what? Well, I’m doing a prevention program, I do it regularly. I talk to the kids, I tell them a little bit about the risks they can take when they go diving. How long have you been jumping? Do you dive here? How old were you when you started? Very young, because the rocks at Cassi are the playground for the kids of Cassi, you know. So, since I learned to swim, I’ve been jumping, so I’ve been diving. But really, since I was 10 or 11, I started to get hooked on this sport. So that’s almost 35 years. Do you hold a world record? I read about that. Yes. A 30-meter dive by an athlete, and I’ve done it five times, and now I’m preparing for 35 meters. It’s cute here too, isn’t it? So, Jérôme, we’re entering a cove that’s 1 km deep, where there are 400 or 500 boats moored. It’s all the better. And look, you see this rocky harbor here behind the cliffs? Exactly. That’s the Pormi quarry. That’s where they extracted the Cassie stone. The famous Cassie stone. And it was used for all sorts of very different things, like the Suez Canal, the port of Alexandria, all the sidewalks in Marseille, all the sidewalks in the region, and, surprisingly, the base of the Statue of Liberty in New York. Wow! You’re supporting liberty, that’s a beautiful symbol. Here are your kids. And there you go, you see, we’re on time, we’re right on schedule. Hi guys , it’s great you came. Hi. How’s it going? Let me introduce you to Jérôme. Hi boys. Jérôme, Jango, Thbo, Thbo, Sandro, Sandro, Bryan. Ah, it’s you who doesn’t finish at the top, there’s a problem, isn’t there? So, first, we’re going to use DJo to get into position on the diving board with the table. So, you’re going to get on the table, Jango. There you go. Now, for the jump, if you land with your toes pointed or your heels like this, there’s no flat foot. OK? Beyond 9 meters, that is to say 10 meters, it becomes dangerous. OK? When we jump, we do what we call the one balance. We take off, we give the super push-off and then we can do a trick by swinging our arms. It’s all a system of balance by swinging the feet and at the last moment, we enter the water. OK? And there, you’ll have done something nice and that’s to catch the girls, the guys. There’s nothing better. OK? And what’s more, you’re going to have fun. OK? I have to admit, I’m preparing for a 35-meter dive right now. On the first dive, I might not enjoy it. But when I’m training at 25 meters from 5 meters, you can’t imagine the pleasure I get from seeing myself fly, flying like that, seeing my shadow on the water coming in—it’s just magical. So, don’t rush, we’re taking it easy. Come on, man. There, that’s very good. You can close your arms even tighter than that. Really, feet straight. Okay. Come on, get into position. Come on, close them. There, that’s not bad. Come on, go. Come on, close them. There, that’s not bad. Don’t worry too much about aesthetics. And go whenever you want. Come on, go. That’s it. Great. It’s perfect. It’s perfect. Jerome. Jerome, it’s perfect. Let’s not exaggerate. Let’s not exaggerate. No, no, I promise, you’ll see. It’s perfect. Do you want to try a foot jump? Yeah, I’d like that. Yeah, with your feet. It’s the same thing. Except you have to tell me how you feel at this height. It’s not negligible. We’re at 6 meters. Okay. It’s only 6 meters here. Onession 35. It’s true, only 6. It’s only 6 meters. So, there’s still quite a bit of momentum to give. Ideally, you start from here and give a real push, making a real step. You see? A real step as far as possible. And as soon as you see that you’re going into the water, you really close it properly. Even shout if you want. Ah, the shout engages the core a little at the same time. Go on. Go on, you close it, that’s perfect. You see, it’s still fast. Well done. Come on Jérôme, you jumped from 6 meters! I should have worn shoes like you guys. You guys can get back up faster. than me. This is your playground. How often do you come here? Every two days. Every other day. What do you like most about this activity? Well, jumping is good because it’s a nice change. There’s definitely a feeling. And what is it? It’s the feeling of fear that you overcome. I was happy because I said, “Yeah, I jumped and everything.” And now, are you going to jump the 9 meters or not? I don’t know. If I’m scared, I don’t know. You don’t know how cute you are. And there you go, Jérôme, you jumped from 6 meters. That’s already pretty good. Wait, that’s huge. Yeah. There, there, that’s a little higher. There are three more. What does a joint do? It’s like three stories of a building. Yeah, it’s three stories. Yeah, three floors, that’s no small feat, huh? Imagine it’s on the balcony, there’s a pool. There we are, it’s right there. Yeah, it’s tempting at the same time, isn’t it? I’m not really decided if one of you two can give me a little inspiration. You’re absolutely right. Is there one of you who just wants to jump so I can visualize all that? Come on, go ahead. So, you don’t follow the instructions and you give me a nice plank at the end. OK. Yeah. Come on, let’s close it up. Yeah, we can win more than that. Yeah, well done. Great. That’s good, mate. There you go. Very good. Yes. Close it up. Ah, that’s perfect. Well done to you who do this all day, hats off to you. You have courage. Great. I’m very proud of you. Well coached especially, huh? Al, it’s good because we are the students, they are already practicing. I’m a novice, but I’d love to see the master in action. You told me you’d kind of imagined a spot. You could do a little jump, maybe from 20 meters. No. Well, it’s a place I don’t know, we’re going to discover it together. I know it’s between 20 and 25 meters. You’ve never jumped there? I’ve never jumped there. Oh dear. And it’s not in the national park because there’s a strict ban on jumping in the national park. So we’re outside, and so, uh, we’re going to discover it together, and I’m very excited too. So this is the place where you’re going to dive. Where’s the wall you’re going to jump from? It’s this wall over there. There’s a little marker up there. We’re at 25 meters. I’m going to do my warm-up up there. Okay. Simple as that. Yeah. Okay, let’s go. Are you ready, Gérô? Especially since you don’t know this spot, right? It’s the first time I’m going to do it. Wow! Exclusive for you. Awesome, awesome. Come on, a little bit of climbing, Jérôme , and you’ll have a pretty good view. Yeah, you’ll see. I’m going to put you in the front row. So, you get in the front row. There, you’ll be good there. I’m going to head over there to grab the plane. Be careful, or don’t worry, don’t worry. Go on, have a great time! And have a great time too. And I’ll enjoy it. Get some good sensations. Woo! Well done! You’re crazy! To follow other exploits, sometimes all you have to do is look up at the sky. Every day in the skies of Provence, you can admire the aerial maneuvers of the Patrouille de France. It is here on this former military airfield in Provence that the French Air Force aerobatic team has been stationed and training since 1964. Smoke cut, top. The Patrouille de France is a team of nine close-knit pilots who rehearse their aerial maneuvers for hundreds of hours each year. Curiously, each flight begins with a choreography that the pilots call “the music.” Smoke cut, top, arrow, top. It’s a mental visualization for the entire flight. So we mentally rehearse everything we’re going to do in the air. The idea is to avoid any surprises. We visualize, with our eyes closed, the axis, the reference points around it, and we mentally rehearse our movements. That is to say, when I raise my hand like this, well, I’m simply making a loop. Each position is like a different musical instrument. Actually. And to get the overall score, well, each pilot will play their own part differently. Rehearsals finished. Time for the flight for the patrol under the watchful eye of its leader, Christophe Dubois, who joined the Air Force 14 years ago. It’s going to be amazing. A Mirage 2000 pilot, he decided to volunteer two years ago to rejoin the French Air Force squadron. It’s a technical and human challenge, and that’s very important. We’re not here to deliver weapons like on a fighter jet, a warplane. We’re here to demonstrate a technical skill. We’re here to show how, with appropriate training and experienced, all-volunteer pilots, we can accomplish the mission entrusted to us. We are the very showcase of the Air Force. We are demonstrating the Air Force’s expertise. We’re flying 3 meters apart. The biggest danger is overconfidence. In fact, humility is essential for air safety. Every day, every time I go flying, I have a little apprehension. Will I do it right? What do I need to do? What do I need to correct? And that ‘s very, very important. Absolute perfection, the showcase of the French Air Force. The Patrouille de France is one of the best aerobatic teams in the world. It performs about fifty times a year in all corners of the globe. It all started in 1931 with a handful of flight instructors who decided to conduct aerobatic demonstrations in the skies above the world. Alongside these combat missions, the culture of aerobatics gradually developed within the Air Force. In 1963, the team became indispensable. It was officially named the Patrouille de France. General Marc Ambert took command of the aerobatic team in 1978. In his 36-year military career, during which he flew all over the world, he spent only two years with the Patrouille de France. But those two years at the controls of the Fuga Magistere would remain forever etched in his memory. It’s a dream come true. It’s a dream, isn’t it? You see those blue, white, and red planes, you see the smoke, you see the bursts, you see the formation, and you want to be there. And that’s what you want to do, to be with them, in their place , just like you see them flying up there. It must be wonderful to be up there. And it was wonderful. It was wonderful, I can say that. I was there the first year; I was there, I was the solo leader. Solo leader, that’s the one who gets to have some fun from time to time, right? And after my second year, I was there as the leader in 1978 for the 25th anniversary of the Patrouille de France. I’m not nostalgic; I’ve done other things, we do a lot of things. But, uh, it’s something that really touches your heart and soul, if you know what I mean, even if you’ve done different, interesting things in your career. Yes, it is, and I still get that little lump in my throat when I come here. Always. If the Patrouille de France is so fascinating, it’s because it symbolizes a certain idea of excellence in the air. A demand for quality and perfection that a large number of the pilots acquired here in front of the hangar of the French Air Force squadron at Salon-de-Provence, at the Air Force Academy. An elite school that trains 500 aviators every year. The best become fighter pilots or combat navigators. We have a tension line that will interrupt the run at minute 140 and will intersect our axis again during the recovery. Aboard Cyrus aircraft, students, under the watchful eyes of their instructors, have been training in the skies of Provence since 1933. On average, each student completes between three and four missions per week. Daily, they inevitably have tasks to accomplish, whether it’s flying, simulator work, or ground school. The training is very intensive, and it requires a high level of motivation from the student because, indeed, they will be flying every day. Every day he’ll be doing simulator missions, every day he’ll be attending ground school, doing sports, studying English, and so it really is a very demanding schedule for them. Thomas has to finish his combat navigator training in three years. He knows he’s living his childhood dream here every moment. When I was little, I lived near an airbase, so seeing planes fly by every day near my house, and my father was in the military. So, living a bit in that world and seeing the planes, that’s what attracted me. My desire to fly comes from seeing our instructors who want to fly Mirage 2000s or Rafales. It reminds us that it’s our goal and it makes us want to keep going, to push ourselves even further. Whether or not they join the Patrouille de France during their careers, each of these pilots will carry within them, throughout their lives, strong values acquired so preciously here, somewhere in the heart of the Provençal sky. Hello. Hello, Mr. Julie. Oh, hello, Jérô. How are you? I’m not bothering you at all. I was expecting you. It’s very charming here. Ah, this is Provence. It’s lovely. All the products you sell are made by you. So yes, this is truly the Marus Fab craftsmanship shop, with, of course, Marseille soap as the star attraction. That interests me. I invite you to follow me and discover all this. Okay. I’ll put down my bag, I’ll leave it here. Let’s go. Thank you. It smells good in here. There are aromas. We’re at the heart of the production process. What’s the dominant scent here? I can’t quite place it. What is it? It’s the oils, mainly olive oil. Okay. Hello. Good morning. How are you? Hello Jérôme. We’re Jean-Pierre, our master soap maker. Master soap maker, so what does that involve? Well, it’s making real Marseille soap, in a cauldron. Okay. You’re like the cook behind the pot, making sure the cooking is going well. There you go, you could say that. What are the dangers? What are the things you have to be careful about? It can boil over very quickly. Yes. Yes. Like milk boiling over. So, the temperature, well, it goes up to 120°, it can boil over very quickly. It’s almost like a volcano. Yeah, that’s exactly it. Because what’s the soap recipe? The oils are vegetable oil plus lye. It’s a chemical reaction. Yes, it’s a chemical reaction that, in the Marseilles trial, is called “empattage” (mixing). It means exactly what it says. That is to say, the transformation of vegetable oils into soap paste. And it will take almost 15 days, Jean-Pierre. Yes, indeed. A good few weeks. Yes, a good few weeks. Do you ever pass a bar of soap to some of your colleagues or not? No, it happens often. Yeah, I imagine. Yeah. Ah, okay. The process is this: it dries. There you go, it dries for two days. And this is what we call the rising stage. That is to say, we have cut blocks of about 30 kg of soap and we will then put them on a pallet and then we will do the cutting. The marking. I didn’t think it dried in such large vats. Sorry. Good luck. These posters are magnificent. Ah yes, it really is the golden age of Marseille soap, that is to say, the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Okay. That’s what brought economic prosperity to the entire Marseille region. And it was used for everything in the house, for washing all the laundry. Yeah. So, since there weren’t any washing machines. And back then, during that golden age, how many soap makers were there here? Good. In Marseille, there were up to 100 soap factories before the First World War. Today, there are three of us in Marseille and two in Salon. Yeah, okay. And you also get groups coming to visit? Yes. Yes. More and more people are keen to discover their heritage, and many French people, A lot of foreigners because we realize that Marseille soap has long been renowned in France, but also beyond its borders. Yeah, we went to get these bars of soap from Tranquille in the drying room and then we cut them in this flash-return cutter. And then, we mark the soap on several sides with our historical stamps. So the first one, as you can see here, is our name. That’s Louis X, which is required of all soap makers to prevent abuse and fraud. And the second stamp is the characteristic of Marseille soap, which is an extra- pure soap. Yeah. Made with 72% vegetable oil. Oh yes, very good. Magnificent. And this is excellent for the skin. You can just bite into it. For dry skin, it’s very good. It’s super cute, in any case. Thank you very much. Great. Very good for the whole family, right? For all skin types, okay? Including the most sensitive. Even the pots of soap, the pots of soap, like that. So, 28, 59. There you go, that stays between us. Thank you, have a good day. Goodbye. Slow down . Hello. I’ve stocked up on soap. Oh, great! I’m glad you found what you were looking for. Yes, it’s not difficult, is it? Well then, let’s go. Let’s continue. You see, Jérôme, here we are in the heart of a provincial town. Okay. What’s this door? Well, there you have the clock tower. Clock tower. It’s also the town hall. That’s it. And in front of you, you have the Mossy Fountain, which is a fountain that has naturally become covered in moss. Naturally. We used to play there as kids. Yes. Yes. Naturally. Okay. Yeah. I would have taken my swimsuit, I would have gone swimming. You see, you brought your soap? I always have soap in my bag. But I don’t know if it’s allowed, although it’s a clean bar of soap, right? We wouldn’t tell you anything. In a living room, you can’t say anything about the living room. We were talking about Nostradamus earlier. Did he live here for a long time, or was he just born here? I think he was born in Saint-Ri in Provence. He died here, he’s buried here, and he made quite a few of his prophecies here in Salon. Ah, that’s excellent. It’s the car, the soap factory. And yes, the Marius Fabre car, the one in the Alpilles. Ah, great. In a Citroën 2CV. I can push it. Ah, that’s not bad. I like that sound. It reminds me of lots of things. It’s nice. Ah, yes, I like it. It’s the Madeleine de F. You’ll see the Alpilles. Ah yes, it’s all in Salon. It’s at the foot of the Alpilles. What’s great here is that you don’t have to slow down on the hills. Yeah, that’s really great. And then, you’re going to see your osteopath, how many suspension seats does he have? Yeah, yes, I know. And there you go, look. Great. You can leave it open, right Jérôme? Yeah. Yeah. I wanted to take you to the heart of the olive groves because olive oil is, after all, the main raw material for Marseille soap. Yeah. So, are we in the Alpilles Regional Natural Park here? Yes, we’re in the heart of the Alpilles Regional Natural Park. Okay. Okay. It’s right near Salon-de-Provence. And I worked here for 10 years. I worked here for 10 years on the creation of the Alpilles Regional Natural Park before joining the family soap factory. There’s fennel here. Excuse me, but it’s kind of like my Madeleine when I was a child. I love those smells. I love fennel. I love it. That’s really wild fennel like that. Grilled fish on vacation. H I love it. If there’s one central figure who perfectly captured Marseille, its hinterland, and the soul of its people, it’s Marcel Pagnol. Wandering through certain villages of Provence, you come across enthusiasts who know the writer’s life and work inside and out . Edmond Maton, 84, loves to stroll in La Treille. It was here, under a blazing sun , that Pagnol first arrived in 1904 with his parents to spend his summer vacation. When they arrived, they would stop in the shade and quench their thirst. And there, Pagnon describes the fountain to us, saying that in the square, the fountain spoke all by itself. “Speaking” was a shell of living stone, attached like a sledgehammer to a square stele from which the copper pipe emerged. That’s the one, right? He wasn’t mistaken. There you have it. I find that sentence magnificent. This fountain attracted him, and then he returned in ’52 to film “Les Sources” with this same fountain. Edmond is inexhaustible on the subject of the writer’s life and the places of his childhood. For him, the most emblematic spot is a little further up, at the edge of the village of La Treille on the road to the hills. So here we are at La Bastie de Neuve. It’s the famous holiday retreat where the Pagnol family spent their holidays, with the help of Uncle Jules and Aunt Rose. Come and spend your holidays here. Here, we are in the heart of Provence. There’s no doubt about it: the blue sky, the signals, the wind, the mistral. His future aspirations stem from there, from the bastide itself. Behind the bastide, just a few steps away, little Marcel discovers the immensity and beauty of the hills. Typical landscapes of the Provençal hinterland that will later adorn part of his work. That’s his playground. He was 10 or 11 years old and he would run around there. He would set traps. He would catch cicadas. He did all sorts of things that 10-year-olds do, you know. But it was an adventure, and that brings back my whole childhood too. And that’s perhaps why I love it so much, because it’s my whole childhood. On the hills of Provence, the car’s footprint remains indelible. She’s just as captivated by it in Auagne. It’s here that he was born in 1895 and spent the first years of his life. Behind the doors of an old house lies what’s known as Marcel Pagnol’s little world, a universe where all the characters from his films and books cross paths. If you listen closely, really listen, and they’ll speak to you. They’ll tell you all sorts of wonderful things with a lovely accent. For example, during that game of boules, they’re arguing . He’s looking at the point, but no, the point is mine. No, no, it’s mine. Look. Well, there you go. And he says, ‘Oh, hurry up, I’m going to shoot.’ You see, it’s all like not hearing. Car characters. Daniel Scaturau could talk about them for hours. For 30 years he’s been having fun engraving them on Provençal plaques. Le Spoun, Fanny, the Well-Digger’s Daughter, Jean de Florette, Marseille, Marius, the Baker’s Wife. Pagnol wrote dozens of plays, novels, and directed legendary films. For Daniel Scaturau, Pagnol succeeded like no other in sketching the daily lives of the region’s characters. It’s life as it is, which can be both funny and cruel. That’s it, that’s what Pagnol always did. It was this warmth, this love, and then this sadness from time to time. There’s always some drama unfolding somewhere. Pagnol is someone who speaks and writes naturally. It’s easy to understand. You don’t have to rack your brains to figure out what he said. You understand immediately. That’s it. It’s with the simplicity of his work that Pagnol touched his audience. From the road worker to the actor who performs his plays every year on the heights of Abagne. 43 years after his death, Marcel Pagnol remains an inexhaustible source of inspiration for many artists in the region. Jérôme has now mastered several techniques for seeing life through rose-colored glasses. Ah, that’s perfect. J, I suggest you take the helm. Ah, with pleasure. He still has a long way to go to learn the customs and traditions of the town of Focé. I think that even with 10 divers diving morning and evening, we would never manage to find everything in the harbor. Hey Captain, is there a problem with the navigation here? Ah, well, this is the relaxation time after work. You see, we leave work, we come here, we play a game of pétanque, we have an aperitif, we go home, He’s not the same man anymore. But after those exploits in the Mediterranean, nothing can stop him. For me, Marseille is feminine. So he meets up with Fabien to perfect his training and finally master his subject. This city is pretty clear, isn’t it ? Which neighborhood are we in? Here, we’ll be able to train him more. This is where I come from. I wouldn’t say regularly, but I come from time to time anyway. Ben, have you seen everything in the restaurant? Yeah. Well, the decor. Yeah. Well, there’s some, I’ve found quite a bit here. Okay. Come on, €1 for the meal vouchers. Come on, it’s a steal, really, everything I see. We’re going to turn right. So you arrive here. What do you like about old objects? What do they tell you? I don’t necessarily like old objects. I like giving old objects a new lease on life. That’s not huge. Do you remember that when you went to the municipal swimming pool? Please leave your things to watch Chapébelle, that would be nice. Wait, I’ll put it on channel 5 then, because what channel was it on? Well, it was on channel 2. It’s not working. I’ve been in Marseille for 40 years. I’ve had this establishment for 10 years. Yeah, and I think it’s evolving enormously. Marseille 2013 did us a lot, a lot . Yeah. Yeah. It did us a lot of good. European Capital of Culture. I think we had a bad reputation, and then with Marseille 2013, people didn’t hesitate to come, and I think that since then, well, the city is evolving more and more. Oh, that workbench is incredible. Magnificent. It’s twice as big. That’s… That’s impressive. You see, you’re talking about the guy in white in the mirror. Yeah, that one. No, that one. Ah, the seashell chest, that’s huge. You can imagine, to find something bigger, we’d really have to search high and low, huh? Well, I already have the vase at the restaurant, from the same family. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Oh yeah, there’s a C-shaped fish there. Did you see it? Yeah. Collared head. You… Yeah, but maybe it’s even been emptied. I don’t know. It might be the first time you’ve left here empty-handed. If you haven’t been here long, it’s normal. Yeah, we have some work to do here, but I think I know where you’re taking me. There you go. Yeah. Do you know the basket or not? Yeah, I’ve already had the chance to cross this neighborhood. There we go, we’re getting there, let’s see how it’s evolving , that’s what interests me. Yeah, it’s changed quite a bit. So there you go. Yeah, it’s changed a lot. Yeah, it’s the old Hôtel-Dieu hospital, which was run by nuns and is now the Intercontinental. So what is it? It’s a 5-star hotel, or maybe a 5- star one, and the building is dark. You know, I think it’s really worth spending a night there. Yeah, honestly, yeah, you wake up and you don’t feel like you’re in Marseille. It’s not bad at all. Yeah, and the view of Notre-Dame de la Garde. Yeah, what I like most is that there are lots of little shops opening up here and there. A neighborhood that’s alive. So this is the Church of the Acoules. Oh, look, this wall is for you. Look. Yeah, it’s mine. Look at the sardine. It ‘s there. Excellent. Absolutely. The people of Le Panier are the people of Le Panier. My mom, who took over a shop in Le Panier, at first it was very difficult to be accepted because we ‘re not from Le Panier. I’m telling you, it’s a bit of a “good principality,” it’s a bit of an exaggeration, you know. But it’s to give you the idea, really. People from Le Panier work with people from Le Panier. Yeah. What’s rather amusing, in a way, is seeing that the most beautiful hotel in the city, and maybe even in the region, that we saw earlier, is actually right on the edge of the neighborhood that was the most notorious in the ’60s and ’70s. Because I like it, you know, when I see the strawberry, that black and white, those are the colors. We’ve left behind the spirit of the graffiti from the ’80s, which is no longer very representative of anything, and I think it’s done a bit more respectfully, you know. From a more artistic standpoint, you see, rather than a protest-oriented one, it’s well-deserved, like Notre Dame de la Garde, right? That’s it. I don’t know if anyone’s counted the steps, but what’s the altitude here, by the way, compared to the old site? Almost 200 meters. I think maybe it’s at 200 meters. Okay. There’s a fortification section. That’s it, I think. That’s it. It was built on top of a fort. What was it? First a chapel. Yeah. Early 13th century. From the viewpoint you have, you see, you can see if you have enemies, you can see everyone coming. Yeah, that’s it. We agree. Initially, it was a chapel, and the fort was bigger. Okay. And slowly, slowly, the church took over the fort. And in fact, today, there’s nothing left of the fort. Okay. The basilica was tense within its walls, you know. This city is bright, isn’t it? When you look at it from here, the light, but also the stone. Yeah, it’s really super bright. Look at this whole area, and just the rooftops adding a bit more warmth and color. But, oh, 2600 years old. Yeah. The city. Yeah. There you go. So, there are monuments, that’s for sure. We hear that, right? That Marseille is the oldest city in France. The people of Marseille are proud of that. We’ve endured. It’s proof of longevity. You’re right. Okay, let’s go up and see the inside. It’s magnificent. Yeah, the Virgin and Child, the good mother herself in gold leaf like that. It’s a little flame that shines, you know, like the little siege over the city. Speaking of sieges, I’m going to put one up for OM. Maybe even two? Yeah. Oh, you want me to put one in? Oh yeah, one for OM. Oh yeah. Oh yeah. A PSG supporter. A new PSG supporter who’s going to support OM. Oh yeah. You see, that’s what brotherhood is all about. You have to set an example. Drinks on the house. A round on the house. This is one of the little tunes that punctuates the lives of Marseillais. Pétanque balls relax people here, especially in the late afternoon. Ah well, this is a bit of a relaxation time after work. You see, we leave work, we come here, we play a game of pétanque, we have a drink, we go home, we’re not the same anymore. I feel sorry for those who can’t do it, I’m telling you. Yve Ours assures us, he was born with a pétanque ball in each hand. He’s been playing pétanque since he was a child and comes here every day to his club in the Saint-Julien neighborhood . It’s a religion. That’s it, it’s when you’re born and they teach you to play boules, you play boules your whole life. That’s just how it is. So pétanque is a religion, with the pointers trying to get close to the jack and the shooters lying in wait to stop them. A religion with its rules and rituals. It’s a tic, it’s automatic. I don’t do it. Or maybe I do, you see. Look, we often make it jump like that too. There you go. There you go. We prepare. We stretch our wrists before going to play. In Marseille, pétanque is essential and popular. There are at least 550 boules clubs here and thousands of players. Peaceful and timeless places. Moments like these, warm moments like these, they go with pétanque. There you go, we play and then after a good shot. There you go, it’s normal. You don’t have to drink alcohol, though . You can see other things, you know. We’ve been playing boules in Marseille for centuries. It was the Romans in antiquity who introduced boules games to the region. In the 19th century, the Provençal game developed. Players have to run and throw their boule. In 1910 in Laaiota, an injured player who could no longer run “tacked” his foot in a circle before throwing. “Tacked foot” became a pétanque expression. In the 20th century, this popular game spread very quickly in the south of France. The pétanque craze then spread to the north of the country. The great history of pétanque is known by heart behind the walls of the blue boule. In this small factory, We’ve been making custom competition boules for about a hundred years. Hervé, like his great-grandfather, casts an expert eye over each pétanque boule that leaves the factory. “Here, I’m checking that it’s the right diameter. 73. Perfect. Uh, the boules need to be as close as possible to the stated diameter for the sphicity too. A little quality control check of the boules’ balance.” 45,000 pétanque boules leave Hervé’s factory every year. “How’s it going, Laurent? The oven temperature is good.” It all starts with a metal disc shaped into a ball, which is then sanded and baked before being immersed in a hardening bath. For Hervé, making pétanque boules is like crafting lucky charms that players will keep for a lifetime. For pétanque players, boules are more than just sports equipment. It’s a tool, a working tool, but also, since the boules are always custom-made, they take on incredible sentimental value. The pétanque players are crazy about them. So crazy, in fact, that the Marseillaise, the world’s largest pétanque competition, has been held in the town of Foix every summer for the past 55 years. Can we start? Yeah. Okay, let’s do the coin. For Yve Ours, the event is a must. He comes here every year to challenge the most talented pétanque players of the moment. That’s right. Go ahead. There are 3,904 teams in total. So we multiply by 3. You just have to understand. Almost 12,000 players. It’s enormous. Plus, it’s in our town. So there you have it, people come to play from all over the world. Last year, there were players from China, there were Australians, there were Dutch. It’s a magnificent competition. The Marseilles competition lasts a week and takes over the city’s parks and gardens. From world-class players to amateurs, everyone sets their own goals. Well, the aim is to make it to this evening at least so we can have a nice day. There you have it. Playing pétanque isn’t just a cliché in Fos-sur-Mer. It makes the hearts of Marseillais beat faster; they rely on the little metal ball to challenge each other, forge friendships, and let time drift by peacefully. Excellent. I love the truck. The sardine can. Exactly. You hadn’t seen it? How are you? I’m good, Fabien. And you? And you? Good. How are you? I had a great time. Well, I’m going to try to keep you having a great time. Yeah. Yeah. We’ll try to make a quick stop at Fabio’s. So, the cheesemonger, the mozzarella you tasted. Okay. OK. There you go. We’re going to his place. We’re going to see the mozzarella. Mozzarella. You’ll see. There you go. Goodbye, hello, how are you? Mino, this little cork, hello Fabio, big guy, can I come in? Wait, wait, wait, wait. Put on your Charlotte. Yeah, he’s got boots. Come on, ready to go face the Mozzarella. Hello. Oh [ __ ] I’m fine, and you? Yeah. Hello Jérôme. Jérôme. Fabio. Fabio sang. There you are, Mr. Mozzarella. That’s what I understood. So, I have a little question, Fabio. Yeah. At first glance, the Bouches du Rhône isn’t necessarily a region where you’d imagine people making mozzarella. How come you’re doing it here? Well, it’s true, it was a bit of an adventure when I started. Uh, there weren’t many people doing it already. Excuse me. Careful, it’s boiling hot, you know. And so, well, I figured there’s definitely a demand because there’s a large Italian community here. When I arrived, I thought, if I can find milk that’s locally sourced and that’s the quality I want, then okay, let’s go for it. Otherwise, I won’t do anything. In the end, we don’t have much in the way of milk in the local area, but we do have exceptional milk because this one is truly exceptional. If you’re talking about Boularta, it’s basically a product of the poor. The laboratory is this mozzarella, which is much softer in the center. But basically, it’s a A product of the poor. That is to say, it was recycled dough from a very noble Moza cheese that had, therefore, reached the end of its life. Once it was no longer good enough for the sales displays, it was torn up and then mixed with this cream that I salvaged. Especially since you wouldn’t imagine it was made like that. For now, it’s the best I’ve found. I never would have imagined it was made like that. I find it so beautiful, though. The guy starts with milk, after all. Look what he manages to make . It’s so good. It’s beautiful. It’s delicious. You’re going to taste this. It’s amazing. Eat it. Thank you. Not bad, right? Very, very good. Bye. Well, that’s fine. Thank you anyway. A big thank you, Fabio. Well, thank you and congratulations. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Well, one day we’ll see each other in Paris, perhaps with great pleasure. Okay, are you hungry? Uh, yeah, always a little room, it depends why? Well, we’re going to have a sardine barbecue, right? That’s sardines. That’s it. We’re grilling the sardines. Excellent. We just passed Carry. You’re right in the middle of it. There you go, you’re on the Côte Bleue. Okay. There you go, that’s what we call the Côte Bleue. Look there, if you look closely at the back there. Yeah, you should be able to see it in theory. There you go, since we can see the beautiful sea from everywhere. Indeed, we can see Marseille from here. You’re right. Can you see it well? Can you see it there behind? Yes. Okay, very good. Yeah. There you go. I used to come here regularly when I was little. What did you come for? Fishing. Did you go swimming? Swimming, fishing? Well, I don’t think I can swim without fishing. So, oh yeah, I go among the rocks. I’m trying to catch some crabs with a rod. I’m always trying to… What are crabs? What are crabs? Crabs? They’re little green crabs. Oh yeah, okay. It’s the little crab, it’s the local crab. Oh yeah. So you fish on foot among the rocks. Yeah. OK. Oh, there are a lot of people here. Oh yeah, it’s nice. Wait, I’ll go over there. It’s a kind of small fair. Yeah. Well, it’s the principle of the sardine festival. Hello, how are you? I’m fine. And you? Are you feeling well? I’m fine, I’m fine. Jérôme. Yeah, I’m fine. Hi, and you? Are you all well? Is everything alright? You didn’t know about the sardine festival? It brings a lot of people together here. It’s where we have about 400 seats and we’re practically full every night. Great. How did this sardine festival start? What’s the idea? Well, sardine festivals in Martigues started in 1985. Actually, last year we celebrated the 30th anniversary, and basically, it was the surplus sardine catch that was distributed to the people in exchange for a glass of wine for €1. There you go. Okay. Saint-Julien wine, Martigues wine, which is also very good. Great. Thank you. See you later. Thanks. See you later. Sardine festival. Okay. Do you know how to eat them or not? I’ll show you how to eat them so you can… Yeah. Okay, let’s pretend you’re a local . Okay. Okay. Yeah. You’re giving the fale. Okay. Stay central, it stays that way, it’ll all work out. Okay. It works. All by itself. If you want, you can add a little something extra, like that. Well, it really had a bit of a holiday feel with the sardines. That was a real pleasure for me. So I wanted to thank you sincerely. I, as they say, had a wonderful time, and not just eating the specialties, because I also had a wonderful time with everyone who was with me, and I really like the Marseilles spirit, this spirit you have here, there’s a lot of generosity, so I’m thinking in particular of Didier, and the bar at Les Goues over there, and all his friends, and a special hello especially to Lionel, who is quite an impressive character. There you go, I was blown away by the diving acrobat. I thought it was really great , and the setting was magnificent. So there you have it, I hope you shared this moment and Enjoyed this moment as much as I did. See you very soon for more wonderful getaways to other faraway lands. Looking forward to seeing you again (in moderation) at La Boîte à Sardine and La Côte Bleue in Marseille. Yeah. Well then, wonderful getaway. Wonderful getaway. Cheers. Cheers. He he he he he Yeah.
5 Comments
Merci pour le reportage 👍
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Nous avons visités Marseille pour la premiere fois cet été et nous avons adorés. Le vieux port est magnifique. Et les calanques aux alentours sont sublimes!
Your video was very beautiful and spectacular.❤❤
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