After an accident forced me to rethink a month-long bikepacking plan, I found myself needing to rest and improvise. Wanting to stay outside, I decided to drive to Croatia and try riding there instead — slowly, carefully, and differently. What began as a compromise soon turned into a new way of traveling. I traded remote mountains for gentle trails, long days for short rides, and the challenge of endurance for the challenge of restraint. Between quiet bike paths, seaside towns, and evenings spent camping by the water, I learned to enjoy a slower rhythm. For those few weeks, I kept telling myself, “just do what you can” — and that became the essence of this trip, which brought all the joy I needed, and wasn’t expecting to find.
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You can plan as much as you want, but in the end, it’s still just a plan. I had been looking forward to a month of riding with friends in Montenegro, but a week before leaving, I fishured my coxes in a silly fall from a canoe. It took me a few days to accept that the pain wasn’t going away anytime soon. And after a visit to the emergency room, it became clear I had to let go of those plans. Recovery from this kind of injury is slow and tedious. Mostly rest, patience, and painkillers. But I was already far from home, and the idea of returning to spend weeks laying down, waiting out the time I had set aside to be on the bike again, felt impossible to accept. fast or harsh movements were off the table, but I kept wondering where the line really was between what I couldn’t do and what I might still manage safely. Sitting on the saddle with a fissured coxus was definitely not what the doctor prescribed, but I had to test out my limit. With a forward leaning position, an easy pace, and the flat road, I realized I could still ride softly without pain. I was disappointed to let go of Montenegro, having looked forward to it for so long. But instead of giving up completely, I held on to the hope of at least not having to quit entirely. I have a plan. So, take care. Take care. Take care. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Okay. We stay in touch. Yeah, of course. And if possible, we meet in Croatia. Yeah. Yeah. We celebrate the victory in whatever we end up doing. Bye. [Music] Do you want to be an American idiot? [Applause] He is very very What you want to do? Chill out. What you’re yelling for, Mr. Sandman. To fight, to fight, to fight. Don’t stop me. I’m having a good time. I’m having a good time. The plan was to still head east, just not as far. I traded the big bike packing adventure I had in mind for something gentler. I still wanted to visit somewhere new. And Croatia, the closest country I hadn’t explored yet, made me feel curious, but also seems like the safe choice. With the uncertainty of how much my injury would allow, going any further just didn’t make sense. I parked in a small town near the border and unloaded my gear, getting the bike ready for what would become my first tiny trail. A test to measure what I could handle. To my surprise, I found several official bike routes around Croatia. For this first trial, I connected a section of the Parenzana Trail, a historic path that follows a former railway linking Triesta with Poridge with the Eurov 8, a long-d distanceance route that traces the Mediterranean coast from Spain to Greece. The route is a little bit bumpier than what I was expecting, but it’s still okay. I’m just making sure to avoid any big rocks so that I don’t give a little jump. But so far, it’s going fine. So, other than the long day, I think I’m going to be able to cycle pretty easily. These paths are mostly car-free with gentle gradients and an easygoing pace. Nothing like the remote locations I’d normally choose, but the perfect option for my current state. The other thing I wasn’t used to was crossing paths with other cyclists that often. Hi. Hi. The fact that there’s a proven and trusted official bike route gives people the confidence to ride there, too. So I found myself surrounded by fellow riders from the very first minute in the niners. Larissa and Kristoff had met the night before at a campsite and I ran into them at a fountain in a sleepy town. Even though we each had different riding plans in Croatia, the three of us were aiming for the coastline next. I let them ride ahead, thinking I’d slow them down and suggested we meet later to come together. I have to lean forwards cuz it’s kind of getting a little bit too intense. Now, having covered around 25 km that morning, I thought I could do the same in the afternoon, only to realize I was pushing myself a little too much and could no longer sit comfortably on the saddle. Luckily, most of the climbing was already behind me, which meant I could let gravity do most of the work all the way down to the water. It was such a relief to realize I could still do most things as usual and that I didn’t have to fully give up on spending the last weeks of summer outside with my bike. I knew I’d have to make compromises. The trip would be less adventurous and far less exciting, but I could still hold on to that sense of freedom even if the rides were shorter and slower. [Music] [Applause] [Applause] Hello. Hello. [Applause] I just couldn’t resist the water. [Music] Back travel has often meant pushing myself physically and mentally to the limit at times. I’ve always enjoyed that intensity because even though it takes a lot from you, the reward is usually far greater. But this time, being forced to slow down and rest felt oddly unfamiliar. Not because I wasn’t enjoying it, but because I was so used to surviving on the bike rather than embracing an easygoing holidayike rhythm. The Croatian coastline invites calm, and that atmosphere slowly began to seep in the further it went. I was afraid I might eventually find it boring. Still, the lack of strong stimuli made me find joy in other new smaller things like people watching, eating outdoors, or not having to worry much about how much food or water I need to carry until the next fill up point. And just as I headed out to look for a place to pitch my tent for the night, Larissa texted to say they were nearby and also looking for somewhere to camp. So, I sent her my coordinates. Took 1 minute. So, and there was where you going? And I was like, I’m going to do porridge, porridge and porridge. And I was like, yeah, okay, they’re going in direction, but not their intention or they were not. It was the first time the three of us were wild camping in Croatia. So doing it together felt reassuring. Though we soon realized there was little to worry about as people here seemed quite relaxed about it and sleeping outdoors was fairly common. I really enjoyed sharing that first night with them. It’s always fascinating to meet other bike travelers and hear the stories and reasons that drive them to explore this way. Yeah. I was happy with the tomatoes because it also feels like having something fresh. Yeah. Not just pasta. Yeah. [Music] His water was not even boiling. So I’m curious how long it will take. The magic of the jet water. Tomorrow morning we need to find water. I also bought in a supermarket in the end water because I didn’t find anywhere else. Yeah. Spain. You get it for a few like €1 or something. Right. Like the So in Germany, you know. Yeah. [Music] We’re all having pasta tonight. Think that’s a big trip. No, Christian will come 10 minutes with some beer. No, I guess not. But [Music] Though I really enjoy sleeping in my tent, the car setup was definitely an upgrade, especially since I couldn’t lie on my back because of the pain. After completing the first loop, I started tracing new ones across the country, slowly filling the map with tiny trails. From one to the next, I’d drive and car camp, keeping my time on the bike manageable and the setup light. It was the first time I combined the car and the bike, and it turned out to be a great mix. I still had the freedom to choose where to go and where to stop, but with many more comforts waiting inside the vehicle, giving my coxes a better chance to rest and heal. All of a sudden, cooking felt like an enjoyable gastronomic experience. Having a chair to lean on, a table, and all sorts of spices and foods invited me to take better care of what I ate, and softened my quiet resistance towards cooking while camping. [Music] [Music] I also loved having casual clean clothes waiting for me in the car, a paper book to read from, or making fresh coffee with my doubled espresso mocha. I knew it wouldn’t bring the same excitement I longed for in my bike trips. But it felt like the right way to adapt, an exercise in giving in to the circumstances while still making the most of them. At the same time, this setup offered a benefit I was eager to enjoy fully [Music] [Applause] I could now do many more cultural activities without worrying about my belongings. I’d park the car outside of a city and ride into the center to explore the old town, shops, and museums in casual, non-sporty clothes. In the past, I had often skipped these experiences because a fully loaded bike was usually a hassle to store and my mind was focused on riding rather than properly exploring a place. This time, however, the bike proved to be the perfect way to get around. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Every place tells a different story through its layout, architecture, colors, or people, slowly shaping its own essence over time. [Music] Croatia is full of towns and small cities with different layers of history intertwining through the narrow stone streets where you can spot culinary influences, Roman ruins, the characteristic Venetian facades or tell apart the pastel Austrohungarian town houses from the 19th century. all standing quietly next to another. And beside the sea, another strong force shaping the town’s character. [Music] I was really savoring the feeling of getting a fuller picture of a place this time. And whenever the crowded urban streets started to feel like too much, I could simply pedal back to the car and drive off to the next mountainous spot, ready to spend some quieter time cycling out in nature. [Music] That day I drove off to the island of Kirk and stopped at a small town to freshen up and cook when Uver and Maria approached, inviting me into the new home. They had also been travelers themselves and had actually met on the road some years ago. One of the things I love most about travel is spending time with locals to learn more about their culture and the land they live in. Yeah. And but I ordered a new coffee grinder that will come to Exchanging thoughts and experiences always feels fulfilling and those moments often turn out to be the most treasured memories from any journey. Yeah. And Kirk I like because it’s quite lush um like with greenery and forests and things. It’s something they make in Croatia. Usually it’s better when it’s fresh. Take a little piece of but you can try. People are so friendly, so open. It’s like this community feeling, family feeling, even if they don’t know you yet. You made this camera. Comes a little ecosystem for some bugs. We’re going to prepare the car. Now it’s a big mess. You can if you want in the car. Yeah. Look, you put the later when it’s organized. Still be here. H. Who? Me? Yeah. I know. I’m going with a bicycle today. But you can try when when it’s ready. You can go in there and you can try. just sleep in the car. So, how do you like it? I like it. I like it. Comfortable? Yes. Okay. Have a safe trip. Yes. Thank you. Enjoy. And uh Yeah. Well, I’ll be on the island one more day. So, see. Yeah. Otherwise, thank you so much. Thank you. You’re welcome. And Hannah, I love her. She went to playground. Hannah. After a week roaming around Croatia, I realized these kind of connections were harder to come by. Perhaps it’s because as a visitor, I’m often seen as a tourist rather than a traveler. And in Europe, people tend to be more private, so moments of connection are usually subtler and briefer. Still, they can feel deeply personal when they happen. And that open invitation from the family felt like a wonderful vitalizing moment. And as if one kind gesture quietly set the stage for the next, I was invited by some locals to try their grapes and wine. Their whole family had come together from different parts of the country for the harvest and had already picked one and a half tons of grapes in just that morning. I loved seeing different generations working side by side in such a relaxed, almost festive atmosphere. The grapes were delightfully sweet, and I kept snacking on them as I rode along the coastline, looking for a place to swim. The island of Kirk is full of rocky coes and little paths that lead straight down to the sea. With the midday heat pressing down, all I could think about was diving into the deep turquoise water. [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] I found my swim spot. [Music] Woo! [Music] [Music] [Music] You see that ruin over there? I think I’m going to try and count her. [Music] [Music] [Music] It’s beautiful. [Music] Whatever. [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] Everyone in the bottle. [Music] [Music] I woke up that morning feeling deeply grateful for life just as it was. The past few weeks had been bumpy, full of things I hadn’t expected. And my mind had been everywhere trying to make sense of it all. And as it naturally does, looking for reasoning and solutions. But that morning, all I felt was a quiet sense of serenity. I was still resting terribly because of the pain. But it turns out that sleeping outdoors with a pretty view all to myself is just the healing I need. I felt my mobility had improved exponentially and with it came the peace of mind to tackle longer climbs and rougher terrain. I was proud of myself for taking the time to build up slowly, staying with what my body could handle. The coastline had been fun, but also easy, mild, and crowded. Not the kind of place I like to ride for days at a time, and just one side of what Croatia has to offer. Feeling stronger and ready for a change of scenery, I shifted eastwards, heading further inland and deeper into the mountains. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Today I’m doing a little loop around Pitza National Park and I’m in this very small road going through the forest. It’s super beautiful. But soon I think I’m going to be hitting main road because if I want to go see the pritita lake, the famous lakes and waterfalls here in Croatia, then I have to go to the main entrance. Anyhow, enjoying the peace and quiet for now. [Applause] [Applause] This road is super busy. There’s also no shoulder, but I have to stay here if I want to go see the Blitzy Lake. Got to be careful. I was so close to Blitzer Lake that I felt I couldn’t just skip it. But as expected, the place was busy and the entry fee was surprisingly high. With it already being late in the day and so little time left to explore, it didn’t make much sense to go in, so I kept riding. Soon after, the trees would occasionally open up, giving me quick glimpses into the park. Small trails branched off from the road, and I followed a couple of them to get a view of the pale blue lakes from above. That’s one of the perks of traveling by bike. You can stop where a car simply can’t. I have to say the area is stunning and being able to get a sense of it from the roadside without officially entering the park felt like a little hack. Inland, the rhythm is entirely different from that of the coastline. I passed through several sleepy towns where everything felt calmed and unhurried. Farming is strongly present and stalls selling local products such as cheese, oil, or honey appear frequently along the way. I’ve recently started paying more attention to the local cuisine when I travel, and I’ve been loving it. In Croatia, dishes are rooted in what’s grown or caught nearby. Cooked simply and traditionally, yet bursting with flavor and quality. After days on the road, it’s such a joy to finally escape the endless bread and pasta cycle and taste something fresh, rich, and local. [Music] With my stomach full, I got back on the bike and continued south into a landscape that shifted rockier, more dramatic, and suddenly quiet. These mountains are part of the northern stretch of the diner Alps, running from Slovenia all the way to Albania. In Croatia, they form the Bellibit Range, where the land begins to rise while the coastline slowly fades into the distance. The region is full of canyons, gorgeous, rivers, and dense forests with plenty of marked trails crossing through the nature parks. It felt vast and mostly untouched, but the most noticeable change was the stillness and how it felt like the whole place was mine to ride through. It’s pretty nice cuz it’s been 12 days since I’m cycling in Croatia and I can really really tell that my mobility has improved. I still cannot sit properly neither on my saddle. I cannot lay on my back, sneeze and coughing also hurts, but it’s so much better already and less painful. And now I’m wondering if I can go down to the lake and go for a swim cuz it’s so hot. That would be so lovely. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Music] I rode seven short trails in two weeks. Nothing remarkable by most standards, but for me it felt like an achievement knowing the easiest choice would have been to give up and go home. I’ve always felt that my body heals better when I keep moving gently and without pushing too hard rather than lying still, mind numb, waiting for recovery to just happen. I loved how varied the trails were and how each one challenged me a little more than the previous one, saving the wildest and most demanding for the very end. So, I pushed myself up the very last climb. That was it. I had done it. [Applause] [Music] [Applause] I couldn’t ignore the big smile on my face. I still had time to ride more in Croatia if I wanted, but this summit felt like the cherry on the top. With the weather expected to change in a couple of days, it felt right to start descending back to the coast and to close out this wildly unexpected summer on a high notes. I had gotten to know a new country in a way that was completely new to me without losing the thrill and freedom that the bike provides. More than anything, I had proven to myself that the word recovery can take many forms depending on what instinctively feels right and on your physical limits at the time. I’ve come to believe that keeping the mind nourished and staying responsibly active physically helps me heal, even if it doesn’t feel like the intuitive response when I was first told to rest. And this time I was right. I often ask myself, what is it about spending time outdoors that I enjoy so much? And why does it feel so necessary and fulfilling? There are, I think, countless reasons. The sense of connecting more deeply with my surroundings, the feeling of being fully present in the moment, the change of routine and scenery, or the simple thrill of seeing new things that keeps a spark of excitement alive. But above all, spending time outside makes me feel grateful for the small things and for this life. A feeling that’s nourishing, healthy, and makes me want to chase it and enjoy it whenever I can. I packed my bike and gear into the car, ready for the long drive back home. But first, I wanted to make a quick pit stop in the city of Sador. I like to start and end the trip with a bit of comfort. By comfort, I mean a good shower, clean clothes, reliable internet, tasty food, and a safe place to pack up my bike and gear for the journey. I booked an accommodation just outside of town, creating a comfortable base from which I could take care of it all, a little home outside of home. I was happy with how things had gone. For those few weeks, I kept telling myself, just do what you can, and that became the essence of the trip. Usually, my mind races ahead of my body, always wanting to push further that I’m physically able. But this time, my determination and a touch of stubbornness worked in my favor. Since I was a kid, I’ve refused to let a health issue or a tight schedule and budget dictate what I can and can’t do. Instead, I’ve learned to read my limits, adapt with intention, and still chase what feels right. It doesn’t mean I’ll always get it perfect, but at least I have the peace of mind knowing that I tried. If I can share a piece of advice, it’s this. Trust your instincts and don’t be afraid to do something that might seem reckless, dangerous, or unreasonable from the outside as long as it feels right to you. Respects the law and follows your own sense of safety. And that’s usually the path that will bring most relief and happiness, even if it doesn’t turn out exactly as you imagined. For my last day, I wanted to do something different and a little special. I put on my only dress, a bit of makeup, and headed into the old town, wanting to feel like I truly blended in with the place. I spent the afternoon wandering through sunbaked streets and small stone squares, slipping in and out of shops and cafes. Sadar felt like a quiet summary of everything I’d loved about the creation towns I’d seen. Full of history, character, and a relaxed rhythm of life. I like places that still feel lived in by locals, not completely overtaken by businesses catering only to tourists. For my last wish, I screamed by the sea. In front of me were two long days of driving back home. But that no longer felt intimidating. After everything I’d navigated over the past weeks, I knew I could handle it. And like I do after every trip, I found myself replaying the highlights while inevitably already imagining the next adventure. [Music] See that?