Échappées belles – Week-end à Hambourg

Et pour ne rater aucune de vos Échappées belles, abonnez-vous ici : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-HX7z7qJlbuYvhTa3VhGKQ/featured?sub_confirmation=1

Échappées belles – Week-end à Hambourg 25 octobre 2025

Située au nord de l’Allemagne, traversée par l’Elbe et ouverte sur la mer du Nord, Hambourg, le troisième plus grand port d’Europe, incarne depuis le Moyen Age un carrefour d’échanges, de commerce et de cultures. Ici, tout respire la mer et la navigation : des docks aux canaux, des chantiers navals aux marchés aux poissons, l’eau est partout et rythme la vie des habitants. C’est également une métropole verte agréable à vivre, traversée par de nombreux parcs et bordée de lacs. A quelques kilomètres à peine, le décor change : on quitte la ville pour plonger dans les paysages paisibles des landes de Lüneburg, entre bruyère, pâturages et villages préservés. Le temps d’un week-end, à travers ses rencontres et ses découvertes, Sophie Jovillard part à la recherche de ce qui fait battre le coeur de la cité hanséatique et de ses environs.

… -Guten morgen! Hello! There are several ways to say hello for these new “Echappées belles”. How about, for a weekend, going to discover one of the most unique cities in Germany. At the same time one of the largest active ports in Europe and a cosmopolitan cultural capital of the North. Seven times the size of Paris, you might have recognized Hamburg! … Hamburg being a city apart, I chose an unusual accommodation, I will sleep here during my stay. Hello, Marc! -Welcome to La Grue Hôtel! -Thank you. -We’re going to discover your room up there! -Danke schon. Oh dear! But I love it! It’s very nice. I’m going to be comfortable here. Before being a room, is there a story surrounding this crane? -Yes. In the 1950s, it was used to load various goods onto ships, spare parts. In 2009, for practical reasons, this crane was declared fit for scrap. And then in 2017, my boss restored it and transformed it into a hotel. -I see machinery. If I activate this, do I make the crane move? -No! It doesn’t work anymore. We left this for decoration. In the past, this is where the crane operator sat, to turn and maneuver this floating crane. -Talk about a floating crane, you feel like you’re floating, it moves! You have to have sea legs to sleep here. -It’s true. When you fall asleep, it rocks you. It’s very pleasant. -Thank you very much, Marc. Welcome to Hamburg, the gateway to the world! … -Sophie Jovillard is in Hamburg for the weekend. -There’s a tradition at this market before 7 a.m.: the fish sandwich. -The herring is so fresh that it starts moving again. Hold its tail! -A city with amazing architecture. -This warehouse has become a concert hall. -Provocative. And caring. -You can be whoever you want in Hamburg. Hamburg is a good example of how living together is easily possible. -A city that takes the time to breathe. -It’s my favorite avenue. Whenever I want to go out without having to walk or cycle, I take the canoe. Surfing in Hamburg is complicated. We don’t have waves. You can leave your house and go to the Alster in Hamburg to paddleboard. You can even swim there. -And a few kilometers from the city center… -You’re lucky, the heath is still in bloom. In 15 days, the purple will have disappeared and everything will turn green again. -Change of scenery. -Sometimes you have to leave the island and even in those moments, halfway there, you ask yourself: why am I leaving here? It’s just like that, I couldn’t explain it. -Without forgetting tradition. -Oenologists spit out the wine, but for beer, you have to swallow to feel the bitterness. -I’ve never tasted beer like that. The Americans have appropriated the hamburger, but actually, it comes from here, right? -Welcome to Hamburg! … -Hello, Uschi! -Hello! -It’s nice of you to come to me. I’m happy to start this journey with you. I’m sleeping here, it’s unusual anyway, for my weekend. -In this crane? -Hmm hmm. -Can we sleep in it!? -It’s a bit rocky, but it’s going to be great. I’m going to sleep well. I’m happy to start this walk in Hamburg with you. I’m going to discover the city through your eyes, through your love for the Hanseatic city. -Very well, I’m happy. … -When we refer to a Hanseatic city, What are we talking about? -It was an alliance of merchants who traded and made their city very rich. There is the Hanseatic City of Hamburg, the Hanseatic City of Bremen, Lubeck, these are city-states and there are others. -Hamburg has a very strong maritime identity and yet the North Sea is a few kilometers from here. We are not by the sea. -We are very influenced by the sea, and 100 km is not that far! … -Well, there is an imposing monument there, in front of us. -It is the town hall of Hamburg called the Rathaus. It is huge! They say it has more rooms than Buckingham Palace. -Hamburg has a particular way of working, we talk about a city-state. -Indeed. We have our own government. And politically, it is a city that reacts differently compared to other regions of Germany. Here, we have few people who vote for the AFD, the right-wing party, and we are very proud of it. … -From Richard Strauss , who was from here, to the Beatles’ first concert in Hamburg, it’s a city of music. -Yes. In the Beatles’ era, live music was played everywhere, every weekend. All kinds of bands played a lot in clubs and bistros. It must have been fantastic! And today, there’s the Elbphilharmonie. It’s a real musical experience. The sound is excellent. It’s wonderful. -It’s true that it’s beautiful. As a singer, you’re bound to be sensitive to this kind of cultural venue. What inspires you? -What inspires me is the presence of water everywhere. I love this harbor atmosphere. I love sailing. I practice sailing. I’m curious to know what you think of the songs by my band, Hafennacht. But first, let’s continue our stroll. -Great! That’s a nice name for a group. … -Now we’re going through the Elbe Tunnel. It was built 100 years ago! -This tunnel is impressive. -It runs under the river , about 500 meters long and 23 meters deep. -We could have taken the elevator. But no, we took the stairs! -What is your role in the tunnel? -I have three missions. The first is to operate the elevators. Close the doors, check that no one gets stuck in them , and send them on their way. The second is to answer questions. The third is to keep a little order. For example, remind the cyclists not to go through the tunnel like crazy, but to ride respectfully. -Tell me, sir, do you sometimes see daylight or have you been punished and you stay in the tunnel? -Yes. There are three of us per team. One at the bottom, one at the top , and one in reserve. We rotate every 30 minutes. -It’s a unique place to have a tunnel that crosses like this. Do you know of any other tunnels like this in the world? -In Glasgow, yes. There was a tunnel like this with elevators for people and horses. The Glasgow tunnel has since been abandoned. Ours still works. Come on up! This way to the exit! Our tunnel is unique in Europe. -You have work to do, we’ll leave you. Thank you very much. … -This place is beautiful! It allows you to cross from one bank to the other. We leave the city center to reach the docks and shipyards. -In the past, to cross, people had to take a boat. The construction of this tunnel was truly sensational. We drilled a little and consolidated, then drilled again. -It’s crazy to try to imagine how they built this tunnel. Whistling. -Aaahh! -It’s my little morning routine: going out onto my balcony and greeting the new day, greeting the Alster, watching the wonderful play of the waves, the sun on the waves, this wonderful play of light and shadow. It’s a great pleasure for me. -From east to west, Hamburg is crossed by the Elbe. To the north, the Alster River also runs through the city before flowing into the river. Rivers, streams, and canals, Hamburg is irrigated by waterways. Some, like Bjorg, make it their personal highway. -It’s my favorite avenue. Whenever I want to go out and I don’t want to cycle or walk, I take the canoe. Go by car! I take the Alster. -The canoes are in the heart of the city, and when you set foot on land, you’re immediately in the urban area. -Hello! Three croissants, please. Great, thank you. See you soon. That’s exactly what I find attractive, this contrast. A minute earlier, we were still in paradise. Everything was green in the middle of the water, surrounded by trees. And two minutes by canoe later, we’re in the heart of the city. Urbanity, buses, traffic, lots of people, shops, everything is there. -This house is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. This boathouse was built in the 1920s, when water sports were developing. As a child, Bjorg frequented this place and was able to acquire it in the 1990s. -It’s an exceptional house. I’m aware of the mission I have. It’s a special life that I have the privilege of leading here. I’m proud to see this house evolve, to be able to keep it alive. My friends say this is my life’s work. It’s truly beautiful. -Canoe owners leave their boats there year-round. Guests rent spaces for 420 euros a year. -Bring everything you want to store upstairs with you. Friends, leave all your belongings in locker 32. There’s the key. Ta daa! -When was it built? -In 1926. The special thing about the house is that almost everything is in its original condition. It’s something special. A journey through time. -I’ve never traveled through time before. -Oh really? You want to paddle? Here we go, let’s go. -Some canoes are authentic collector’s items. Historic boats that can cost several thousand euros. -This is a special canoe. A model from the 1930s. A real Hamburg canoe. We’re going to take it out. Take it up front, please. Come on, let’s go. -A bucolic outing on the canal is precisely what Alex and Julian are about to do. The Alster is divided into many small branches distributing the most beautiful residences in the city. The walks can last for hours. To take a break, you can serve yourself at the drive-thru without leaving your boat, like at the Café Canal. -The good thing is that if you’re going on a long excursion, you can stop here by paddleboard, canoe, or pedal boat. Many customers come from Hamburg. Sometimes the line is very long. It can go all the way behind the bridge. -A means of transport, places for walking, the canals are also places for practicing sports. Yoga, rowing, or even stand-up paddleboarding, activities are developing, clubs are being created. Like Philipp’s, originally a surf instructor. -Surfing in Hamburg is complicated because we don’t have waves! That’s where stand-up paddleboarding came in! We thought, this is the perfect combination. You can do this sport anytime. No matter the weather, rain or shine. You leave your house and go to the Alster to paddle. I love this city for all the water that cradles it and all of this right in the center. It’s clean, you can even swim in it. -This cleanliness can be maintained and certain initiatives contribute greatly to this. -Here is a beautiful telescopic grabber for collecting waste. It works like this. Here is a bucket that we hope to bring back as full as possible. -Lisa and David are coming to visit the city. To rent this kayak, they will pay in collected waste. -I saw this initiative on the Internet. It appealed to me. We can make our own contribution and see a little bit of Hamburg at the same time. -With Greenkayak, they will be able to travel for 1 hour. In exchange, they’ll collect what they can with their nets. -We haven’t found any trash yet, the city is very clean, at least in this area of ​​Hamburg. Daaa! It’s really a great way to discover the city on the water, to adopt a different perspective and to do something good at the same time. -Here, the canoes are living spaces, meeting places. All these initiatives demonstrate the importance of these waterways in the heart of the city. … Hubbub. … … … -What do you want? -I’d like a cappuccino. -And an espresso. -OK! An espresso and a cappuccino! Here we go. -I’ve known him for years, he’s Jessy. He’s at every market in Hamburg. -He’s a character. -Uschi is my number 1 customer . Laughs. I knew your son when he was little. Now he’s a man! We’ve known each other for 16 years! -Yes, 16 years. -It’s been a while! -Thank you. -Hey, Jessy. Not easy to make your way through, huh? Uschi, you asked me to wake up at the crack of dawn this morning. You said it’s for a good reason, explain. -Early mornings at the Hamburg market have a great atmosphere. The people are funny, especially the vendors. There’s a tradition at this market, before 7 a.m., and that’s the fish sandwich. -So, let’s see. Little morning sandwich! There’s plenty to choose from. What shall we choose? -Herring, of course. I always have the pickled herring. -Good morning, sir. What do you have? -We have 20 kinds of fish sandwiches for every taste. Sweet, sour, salty, fried, baked, steamed, smoked. -I’d like a pickled herring and a shrimp sandwich, please. -Little brown shrimp. How long have you been working at this market? What does it represent? -My family has been at this market since 1896. I’ve been at the fish market for 50 years. Shrimp? -Shrimp. -Be careful, the pickled herring is so fresh that it sometimes starts moving again. Hold it by the tail. -I’ll be careful that it doesn’t escape from the bun. -It wakes you up! Danke schon. -Goodbye. -So this market is a meeting place for early risers, tourists, but also partygoers, right? -Yes, you’re right. The night owls come to drink their last beer here, in the old fish market. You don’t find them at the vegetable stands. Rock ‘n’ roll. -This market is beautiful! -Yes, it’s the old fish market. It’s a 19th-century building. We used to hold auctions there. -Today, those who shout are the singers on stage. We have concerts in the early hours! -Yes, it’s playing. … Here, we can party if we want. There are certainly people from last night. -There’s a contrast between those who are starting the day and those who are ending their night. … … -Now, I want to show you something special, which I find magnificent. It’s the Madonna of Navigation. It’s a woman looking towards the sea, over there, and waiting. It’s actually a Hamburg tradition: waiting for the ship that will eventually return. I find it very moving. She hopes that what she’s waiting for will return. -It moves you a lot. -Yes, I’m touched, really. And on the other side, there’s an inscription. “To the imperishable sea, to the ships that are no more , and to the simple men whose days will not return,” by Joseph Conrad. -Is this a memorial for those lost at sea? -Yes, it’s a memorial for ships that have sunk. Once a year, former sailors, mostly men, gather here to pay tribute to those who remained at sea, who will never return. This is where I was inspired for my song “Fisch mart.” Song in German. … There you go! Laughter. … -You can really see that Hamburg’s maritime port identity is multifaceted. We have the container ships behind us, historic ships here, the ferries passing by, restaurants on boats, it’s many faces. -Here in Hamburg, it makes us feel a little special, because we’re almost by the sea. It’s inspiring to make music, to have your home here. In fact, all our songs are about water in the broadest sense. They all have something to do with water. Through our compositions, we tell the story of life, often through metaphors about water, the sea, the ocean. And especially, about the harbor. That’s why our band is called Hafennacht, “harbor night.” … I’m going to introduce you to the other members of my band, and we’re going to play tonight on this boat! -Great! I’m finally going to hear you sing live. Let’s get on board! Laughter. Nice to meet you! Nice to meet you! Hello! Hello. Nice to meet you, nice to meet you. I know it’s your moment now, the audience is arriving, I’m going to sit down. I’ll see you at the break. Hubbub. … -I’m Sophie. -I’m Christian. -Hi, Christian. You speak French. -A little. -A little. I’m discovering Hamburg. I’m happy because I’m going to a friend’s concert. -I’m a fan! -Why? -It’s A well-known band here. They mix traditional and modern songs . -Is it a mix of all that? -Yes. -Good concert. The band starts playing. … -Welcome everyone. Glad you’re here. Thank you very much, and let’s go. … … -Uschi, it’s original, the audience that comes to drink with you. You’re really close to your audience there. People sing along with you, that’s what you like. -There are people who discover us at the concerts. And others we’ve known for over 15 years. They love us and we love them too. -It’s a beautiful moment of sharing. Thank you for all these moments we’ve shared together. I’m still enjoying you and your songs a little more. -It was a real pleasure! -A few musical notes escape from this jewel of modern architecture: the Elbphilhamornie. Inaugurated in 2017, it has become an essential symbol of the city and its constantly changing architecture. -It is an architectural feat, but also a monument anchored in the tradition and history of the city. Because it is located in the district of the old port of Hamburg, the port is the beating heart of the port city. This former warehouse has been redeveloped into a concert hall. A choice that makes perfect sense. The alliance between the industrial past and the future is essential in the service of creativity, art and I would say curiosity. -The construction lasted 10 years and suffered from numerous delays. 20,500 square meters of glass surface made up of 1,100 glass plates where the sky and the sea are reflected and in which many see waves or a ship. Inside, a hall with a capacity of more than 2,000 people, spread across balconies designed like vineyard terraces. -It’s an architectural masterpiece that gives free rein to the imagination. A spaceship or perhaps a vestige of history, that’s what those who enter feel, whether they are technicians or musicians. As soon as they arrive on stage, the first reaction is the same: “Wow! What an extraordinary place!” -Tonight, the musicians will play for the opening of the season in front of 2,000 people. The Paris Orchestra will have this honor. Elsa and Alexandre, her partner, have been playing there for more than 10 years for the orchestra. They have played here many times. -The balconies have truly spectacular shapes . It’s almost organic with these chosen materials. -I love the hall, the lights. It’s very bright, and above all, the acoustics are… -Very bright too. -Very bright. It’s pleasant, you can hear everything. -Transparent. -Transparent like the walls of the building offering this exceptional view, even in the artists’ dressing rooms. -A concert hall is often a place… It’s rarely a place by the sea. It’s often a closed place, especially backstage. It’s not very often the place architects pay the most attention to. Having the view above the docks, we never tire of it. -The view is insane. -In just a few years, the building has become the emblem of Hamburg. Its free terrace attracts crowds for the view and you can even spend the night there. A 5-star hotel has more than 240 rooms, starting at 250 euros. And a presidential suite from 2,000 euros. -Sounds good to me like that, Jasmine. -That’s good. -OK. Thanks for your help. -With pleasure. -The Elbphilhamornie overlooks the Speicherstadt, a UNESCO -listed 19th-century brick warehouse district, the largest of its kind in the world. -Around 1900, Hamburg was overflowing with goods arriving at the port from all over the world. There was no more room to store them. A solution was needed, and the solution was the Speicherstadt. Here, it was nothing but swamp and mud, the Elbe area. 30,000 oak piles had to be driven in to build the Speicherstadt on top of it. It survived the Second World War. Half of Hamburg was destroyed. The Speicherstadt, however, survived almost entirely. -These buildings now house offices, shops, and the Speicherstadt. This is not Gulliver’s world, but Miniatur Wunderland, created by Gerrit and his twin brother. The whole world and some monuments recreated in miniature, down to the smallest detail. -It was obvious to us. We wanted to have the Speicherstadt here. The different stone colors, these decorations, this architectural play with patterns and everything else, for me, it is an incomparable beauty. -Opened in 2001, Miniatur Wunderland invites visitors from all continents. Scenes from life and famous people to patiently search for. Day and night, at sea or even in the air. When the planes take off, more than 1,200 trains run on the 16 km of miniature tracks. The vehicles are autonomous and supervised from this control room that looks like a space center. -Our model makers joke that deciding how to build a scene is a bit like playing God. For us, it’s the same. We decide whether a train arrives on time or not, whether there will be an accident or not. It’s like exerting a great influence from above. -In the district of Saint Pauli, a relic of the Second World War stands proudly . A former Nazi anti-aircraft defense bunker . -These trees are up to 25 years old. They are not young trees , and yet they have taken root in this substrate, which contains expanded clay balls. They have grown there. -It’s wonderful. -For some time now, the bunker has found new life thanks to this green extension at its summit. Barbara and her association maintain this urban garden and the memory of a tragic history. -Magnificent! Very beautiful view! At least, today. -This tool of war, a refuge during bombings, is today a peaceful place where everyone comes to walk. -For more than 10 years, we have met witnesses of the time during organized meetings. They recount their memories of the past, buried stories that are not spoken of. By coming to the bunker and seeing that we are bringing this history to life, the memories resurface. It’s good; it helps to tame them. -Hitler wanted to transform this bunker into a palace. A post-war homeless shelter , a concert hall in the 1980s, and today a hotel and restaurant, this building has had many different uses. -Many wanted this vestige to remain as it was, as a memorial. I think this new building is a wonderful breath of fresh air, for us and for the world. It shows that it is possible to approach such a painful memory differently. -This bunker is a reflection of Hamburg’s architecture. Projects that serve collective memory, while reinventing urban daily life. … -Hello! -Sophie! -Nice to meet you, Sebastian. -Nice to have you here. -I came to your restaurant because you serve popular dishes and because this place is unusual. It could be called the leaning house here. -Yes, we call it the little crooked house. It’s not just us who say that, but also our customers. It’s leaning even more than the Tower of Pisa. -Why is it leaning? -We have a lever in the cellar and every morning we pull it to tilt the building. No, I’m joking! In fact, on the river side, the house rests on very solid foundations. Whereas here, at the front, it’s much less stable. The house has been leaning little by little. We wouldn’t straighten it for the world. It’s part of the Oberhafen-Kantine’s identity . Let’s go inside! Most visitors say, “Wow! Your lamps are falling crooked!” In fact, only they and the counter are level. Everything else is leaning. -It’s a funny feeling, you can really feel that the house is leaning. You really wanted to leave the house as it was. This place is a true historical monument. -It’s a place where tradition endures, where we enjoy conviviality and good food. That’s the magic of the house. I’m going to show you a craft brewery to find the beer to serve with the dish. -We’ll cook after. … -Hello, Axel. Meet Sophie. We’ve come to taste your beers. -Nice to meet you. -Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. -Sit down. … -Thank you! -This is a wheat beer, brewed with wheat. The most traditional beer in Hamburg. This is a “Pils” and a “Pale Ale,” an English-style beer. -Is everything made on site? -We’re in a microbrewery. The beer is brewed and served there. I’m going to show you how to taste a beer like a sommelier. I’ll first observe the color. It’s cloudy because it’s unfiltered. The foam is thick. The most important aspect of tasting is the nose. It’s the nose that captures the most aromas. There’s a fruity side here. These are red fruits, light exotic fruits. Then comes the first sip. Oenologists spit out the wine, but with beer, you have to swallow to feel the bitterness. The bitterness of beer plays an important role. -This is the first time I’ve been taught how to taste beer. -Here, the history of beer goes back 1,000 years. In the Middle Ages, Hamburg was the brewery of the Hanseatic League. The most important city in the entire league. There were more than 500 breweries here. The raw materials were grown in Hamburg. The entire city, its waterways, were designed so that drinking water was always available for its 500 breweries. -Is that what interests you above all, the flavor of beer, beyond the alcohol? -Of course. We pay attention to what’s happening on the market. What are the new trends. Here, I always find what we need. Sophie, it’s time to return to the restaurant. In this building, we have our second kitchen and also the Oberhafen gallery. You’ll discover the history of the restaurant there. We’re celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. I’ve been managing the restaurant for 15 years. Before me, it was Anita. She’s the founder. She’s the soul and spirit of this house. … She was honest, cooked simply and authentically. She was just there for the people of the neighborhood. -You really wanted to stay in the spirit of Anita’s cuisine . -For me, it was obvious. When I knew the Kantine was for sale, my heart told me to take it over. I’m very proud of it. Now we’re going to cook a house specialty: the white Hamburg sausage. It’s a recipe that dates back to the 14th century. We take veal, pork fat , and fish, which we mix together to make the sausage. We need 50g of “maatjes” and 100g of Bismarck herring. Can you make me some crushed ice? It’s so the mixture doesn’t get hot while we knead it and the proteins bind well together. -Who gave you a taste for cooking and good food? -It was my grandmother and my mother. When I was 2 years old, I was standing on a stool in the kitchen, mixing sauces and tasting them. … So Sophie, here’s the original hamburger. -OK. -And the sausage we made together. -I still want to know if we did a good job. I’ll help myself. -You have to taste it with the homemade mustard. -It ‘s good. I want your opinion anyway. -It’s excellent. Great! -When we prepared this meat and fish mix, I said to myself… It works very well! -It’s true. -Behind this dish, it’s the story of a sandwich that has traveled a lot. The Americans have appropriated the hamburger, but does it actually come from here? -The Hamburg “ruschtuckvan” was created around 1900, by an innkeeper on the Reeperbahn. Late at night, customers were asking for food. The only thing left in his refrigerator was a piece of roast pork, a little brown sauce , and an old roll. People loved it. After the First World War, a family of butchers emigrated to the United States. And there, the dish spread during popular festivals. Then an American had the idea of ​​replacing the roast with a ground beef. That’s the story of the hamburger as we know it today. -Thank you for teaching me this recipe and thank you for letting me taste the famous hamburger. -Thank you, Sophie. -What would you like, ladies? -A “fisch roll.” -OK. Anything else? -No, thank you. -On the docks, a star sandwich has been delighting gourmets for decades: the “fischbrotchen.” These small rolls filled with marinated herring, onions, and remoulade sauce symbolize the city’s culinary identity. -Let’s look at the fried fish. -This classic is now being revisited by some chefs. Out with the marinated herring, in with homemade breading, prawns , and other original sauces. -This is our bread, which we work with a bakery. You won’t find this brioche bun in any other fischbrotchen restaurant. It seemed obvious to modernize the fischbrotchen. Firstly because it’s a symbol of Hamburg. Working on it and taking it to another level, in the 2 years I’ve been working here, has opened my eyes to what this sandwich really represents. It’s cool to see that old things remain. They’re just reworked and don’t stay stuck in the past. Christine! Mauri! The meal is ready. A “Black Tiger Roll” for you. A fisch roll for you. -This fischbrotchen, born for sailors and people passing through the city, is the ancestor of Hamburg’s street food. -It’s a very beautiful reinterpretation. It’s like a lobster roll, a lobster sandwich. It’s delicious! -For Christine, the local gastronomy has no secrets. -As a port city, it’s quite logical that the first steps of street food in Hamburg are the fischbrotchen. We have fresh fish, good bakers , and it’s a simple dish that can be found all over the city, especially here at the port, on the embarkation docks. -For a few years now, Christine has been shaking up the city’s gastronomy thanks to this place, the “foodlab.” A talent incubator that offers support for new projects. Here, chefs without equipment can rent professional kitchens . -I cook here for my own business. I have a pastry truck that I use to sell at the weekly markets. I chose foodlab because they helped me get started and develop my brand. It’s an ideal place to cook, produce cakes, and even eat in general. -At the foodlab, there’s a culinary buzz. When Juhmanah makes her pastries, other chefs work in the neighboring kitchens. -The foodlab is a place where you inspire each other. You meet different people, ideas are born, you exchange influences. You learn a lot from each other. -Very different people come here, who are also at different stages of their careers. Some come with an idea and want to try something new. They take advantage of our structure to test their projects. There are also people who have entire careers in cooking. -Over time, Hamburg has seen a constantly evolving street food appear at its markets . Like every week, at the Goldbekuffer, Christine and Mauri meet Juhmanah’s truck. -It’s nice to see you. -Hello. What can I get you? -What did you make? -They’re all sold out. They were cinnamon rolls . -Oh no! -The advantage of a market stall is that you work in a big family. We all know each other. We start together early in the morning. The customers are locals who come back again and again. Yes, it’s part of the market, a special and intimate place. Maybe even more intimate than a café in a big city. -With foodlab, the two foodies have already helped many projects. From one food truck to another, they are received like royalty. Here, at Dario’s, empanadas and Argentine specialties. -The port of Hamburg still plays a major role. There have always been ships and a wide variety of people who ended up here to realize their dreams. -Dario fulfilled his first dream. He was a classical dancer. -When I stopped ballet, I decided to do something else. Argentine gastronomy didn’t exist much here in Hamburg. I thought, why not make empanadas? It’s something I love and do with passion. It’s like a stage. I perform a show that brings people together. And the foodlab is like a rehearsal studio, the place where I train and prepare. And here’s my big theater. -Precisely, the culinary scene is developing everywhere. In traditional markets, but also during trendy events. In just a few years, Hamburg’s gastronomy has taken a leap forward. The city has 18 Michelin-starred chefs , and 11 of them are gathered at the foodlab to share their inspirations. -Hamburg is the city that received the most stars this year. It was like a little shower of stars for us. This can be a good example for other cities in Germany. Hamburg’s cuisine is really making great strides. -Street food in Hamburg today reflects its maritime identity, its working-class past , and its urban creativity. Whether you’re at a Sunday market or under the trendy halls, it offers rich and varied flavors. -Hi, guys. Today, I have something for vintage lovers. I’m at Hot Dogs. A friend from France is coming, *it’s Sophie, we’re going to have fun together. … What do you think of this jacket? Hi, Sophie! -How are you? -Yes, and you? -Are you recording? -I’m fine. -For social media. *Hi! *-Hi! -I have something for you. -Okay. I found out about you thanks to this website where you make videos, where you give advice. It’s called: “geheimtipphamburg”, the good tips, the secret spots of Hamburg, right? -Exactly. I recommend places, events, things to eat, for the locals and tourists of Hamburg. -Hi! -Hi, people! Perfect. Nice video! That jacket suits you well. This one’s my favorite. What made you choose Hamburg? -So, after high school, when I finished school in Hanover, I wondered what I was going to do. First, I went to Paris. I wanted to see something different. To gain my own experience. Then I said to myself, “Now it’s time to do something serious.” I studied event management in Hamburg. I’ve been here for two years. I’m happy. It’s a great mix. We have a big city and plenty of places where we can settle down and relax. … I’d like to introduce you to a friend, Paul. He’s right here. -Hi, you. -Hi, Paul. -Hi, Paul. -Hi! -Hi. -Nice to meet you. -Is this vehicle yours? -Yes, it’s a T3 van. -Yeah. -It’s from 1987. This guy is older than me, but he’s in great shape. -You know I’m a huge fan. Look at my T-shirt. -I see! -I have a van on my T-shirt. I have something else to show you. Let me find a picture you might like. There! That’s my van! It’s my favorite. -Super nice. -It’s beautiful, isn’t it? -It’s a nice color. -Yeah. So, what’s the idea? -Eric wants to show you a place and I’ll drive you there. It’s out of the city, in nature. -Great. Let’s do that. -Okay? -Let’s do that, so nice. … I’m curious how you guys met? -Paul was my first roommate in Hamburg. He was the first to show me the cool places and everything I could do. We became friends. Now we’re in his van living our best lives with you. -That’s really cool. Volkswagen vans, old ones like yours, really have a strong appeal. The first ones were built in the 1950s, right? -The story of the first van, the “Bulli,” began in Wolfsburg, near Hanover. These vehicles are popular in Germany. These old cars are very different from the new ones. There are no screens, no touch functions. Sometimes you have to use force to close the doors. -It’s interesting because there’s a real contrast between making videos for social media, which is very modern , and loving what’s old and vintage. -I’m like an old soul locked in a young body. I love the vintage lifestyle, vintage clothes, vintage vans. -Friends like me! Ha, ha! -Oh no, no. You’re still 20. Laughs. … -Thanks, driver. -You’re welcome. … -Now we’re in Visselhovede, a village in the Lüneburg Heath. Here, they try to keep the whole environment, the dwellings, the animals, as they were hundreds of years ago, even a thousand years ago. -That’s it. It’s as if time has stood still, but it’s still a living place, a vibrant place, almost an eco-museum. There are visitors here. -Yes. The goal is to keep the history of this place alive, like with these thatched roofs, for example. The heather they use for the windows and for the top comes from the heaths in the region. … -We arrive at Thomas ‘s farm. -Hello, hello. -Sophie. -Hello, my name is Tom. -Herman, come here. -Hi, you. What a beautiful dog! The boys were saying to me, when we arrived here, that we had landscapes typical of northern Germany. What we have here is quite unique. -Indeed, these open moors are unique. It is the sheep who have shaped this landscape as they went along. They graze the young trees, otherwise everything would be invaded by bushes and young trunks. In 10 years, it would be a young forest. We want the moor to be preserved as much as possible. The sheep and goats see to that. … You are very lucky, the moor is still in bloom. In two weeks, the purple will have disappeared and everything will turn green again. The heather grows and stays there all year round. Right now, acorns are falling from the trees. It’s a treat for the sheep. So they run from oak to oak. -They know where to find their sweets! -Is this a very specific breed? -Yes. They are gray Heindschnucke. They are a hardy breed born in the moor. They are adapted to these poor pasture conditions. They feed on heather and young tree shoots. -Have you told me about other animals that live here, like the wolf? -Yes. -Yes? -Unfortunately. We have two packs established in the region. It’s easier for the wolf to take a lamb here rather than run for hours after a deer. -It’s crazy to think that there are wolves an hour from Hamburg. -It’s a problem. I don’t want to eradicate the wolf. Yet, a wolf once took a lamb from me while I was grazing the flock. It’s not a simple subject. Really not simple. -Now, in theory, you could drive on the sandbar in front of the island, it’s nice. We’d like to go sand yachting there. -And many other things. … -Torsten and Hanke take a couple of tourists to their island of Neuwerk. Located in the heart of the Elbe estuary, it has belonged to Hamburg since the 14th century. -Twice a day, the sea ebbs and flows back, so much so that sometimes you’re not quite sure: are you on dry land or in the open sea? You follow a marked path, the landmarks, the bushes planted in the sand. The landscape changes constantly from one year to the next, sometimes from one month to the next. New sandbars appear and there, others disappear. -The island is isolated. Tractors bring back food and parcels. Some visitors cross on foot, on horseback. And in high season, around fifty horse-drawn carriages make the 9 km journey across the mudflats every day. -It can be dangerous if the current is too strong and the water gets too deep. There can be storms. -This is the 4th time we’ve been to Neuwerk. And we always stay at least 3 days. We like it so much because when you arrive, you immediately feel like you ‘re on vacation. The only important decision of the day is whether you go around the island to the left or the right, that’s all. -Unlike the day visitors, Torsten and Anke are among the 20 people who live on the island year-round. -There have always been work horses on the island. Today, the island lives off tourism. Before, it was agriculture. The horses are mainly used for carriages to cross. -On Neuwerk, there are more horses than humans. Some come to the island for retreats or for therapeutic stays. -Neuwerk lives thanks to horses, whether they are working or boarding. You get there by horse-drawn carriage. They are everywhere. This island, without horses, it would be impossible. They are inseparable from the image of the island. -On the island, some families have been present for 6 generations. The first inhabitants were tasked with monitoring the mouth of the river, thanks to this fortress lighthouse erected in 1314. It is the oldest building in Hamburg. Torsten is a bit of a guardian of the place. Like most islanders, he makes a living from tourism. He offers excursions to get closer to his favorite companions: wild animals. -Of course, in winter, it becomes lonely and you sometimes have to leave the island, but even in those moments, halfway there, you ask yourself: “Why am I leaving here?” That’s how it is, I couldn’t explain it. I wouldn’t give up life on this island for anything in the world. I will always come back here. We have a multitude of bird species and thousands of migratory birds that pass through here in spring and autumn. And there is this landscape that is constantly changing. The light is constantly changing, and before you lies this endless horizon. -In the heart of the Wadden Sea, the island has had national park status since 1990. Here, no kites, kitesurfing, or even off-leash dogs. Geese, roseate terns, oystercatchers— the birds are protected and monitored by park staff. -Spring and autumn are important times for birds, as it’s the season of their migration from their breeding grounds to their wintering grounds. Here, they find the peace and quiet they need to feed. Some even nest here. -To carry out their missions, the park rangers must communicate with the mainland. For this, they must rely on one key person, the postwoman: Silvia. -Hello! -Hello, Silvia. -Hello. -I have a water sample kit. I’m going to entrust it to you. That way, I’m sure it will arrive safely by mail. -Silvia lives on the mainland, but is part of local life. She goes far beyond her role. -I do errands for the islanders. I go to the pharmacy to pick up medicine and bring it back. I pick up prescriptions from the doctor. All this for the islanders; they can’t go to the mainland every day. … When I arrive on the island, it’s always with a very good feeling. The people are warm and friendly. There’s always a good atmosphere here. -The postwoman goes around the island to deliver here, the old school converted into a shop. And a little further on, Torsten waiting for his mail. -A package! … -Actually, without the internet, it would be even more crucial. Before, we relied heavily on the mail. Especially in winter, it was complicated. The post office only came once or twice a week with the cart, and if the weather permitted! -The community of Neuwerk is aging. One day we’ll have to attract new generations ready to live self-sufficiently and maintain the fragile balance of this unique ecosystem. … -Hello, Heike! -Hey! Sophie! -Are you okay? You’re kind. -It’s for you. -Thank you very much. You said I’d recognize you because you’d have a flower for me. Thanks for the welcome. I crossed the Elbe to join you, on the other side of the river to discover your world , and we’re going to talk about apples. -Come on, I’ll show you. -Let’s go. It’ll be better to talk about it in the orchards than on a quay. Shall we stay in the Elbe Valley? -Yes. The Elbe Valley is the largest fruit-growing region in Europe. There are nearly 800 of us orchardists. We grow apples, pears, plums, and also very tasty red fruits. -I see this tractor, crates of apples, are we in the middle of harvest time? -Yes. We are in the prime harvest period, with the well-known varieties: Elstar, Holsteiner, Cox, Santana. All these lands were made cultivable by the Dutch in the 16th century. They drained the Elbe Valley to grow cereals and livestock , and the soils became very fertile. It was in the 19th century that it became rich fruit-producing land . And if you put a little love into it, it’s even better. So, Sophie, we’re coming to the farm. -Very good. Oh, my, it’s lovely at your place! -So, welcome! I suggest we go to the orchards. Let’s go. … -I hear some noise over there. -Yes, we use machines. It greatly lightens the workload of the pickers. They no longer need to lift very heavy crates . They just have to place the apples on the conveyor belt. For us, it’s important to keep picking apples by hand. -This one is very good. It’s not sour at all. It’s sweet, I like it. -I’m going to taste it too. -Give me your opinion. -Mmm! Juicy, tangy , and crunchy. Very good. -We approve. How large is your farm? -We farm about 80 hectares of organic production. We have a little over 20 different varieties of apples. I suggest we go and prepare a delicious dessert for a chef friend, typical of the Altes Land. -Great, I’m going to try a local specialty! … -Christian! -Oh, hello! -I’d like you to meet a friend from France, Sophie. -Hello, Christian. How are you? Nice to meet you. Laughs. -I hope you enjoy our apple pancakes. -They’re really easy. I used the same recipe as my grandmother, with flour, sugar, milk, and eggs. It gives a perfect balance between sweetness and tartness. These apples are the best. -OK. Shall I help you peel them? Is that okay? I see you have a little secret. What’s the secret? -It’s sparkling mineral water. It makes the batter fluffier. -Is that good? -Now I’ll add a little butter. -Buttered apples. -Hey! -Hello! -Look what Sophie and Christian made in the kitchen. Apple pancakes. -Okay. -Glad we’re together. -Hello, nice to meet you. -I think you’re the best people to enjoy this apple pancake. They’re your apples inside. Tell me what you think. -Of course. -It was important that we were all together because you said it’s a family business. It must make you happy to see your daughter taking over. -I grew up in the middle of the farm. I always liked helping my parents after school. For me, it quickly became obvious. It’s what I wanted to do. -Who finished the plate? -Mom! -No! Laughter. No! … … I enjoyed sharing this moment with you. I wanted to thank you because I know that during this season, you have a lot of work on the farm. Thank you for taking the time. -Danke. -Thank you very much. -In the Middle Ages, everyone had a wooden spoon on his belt. Why? Because we cooked outside. People liked soups in a pot. To eat, you needed a spoon, otherwise, you wouldn’t eat. Let’s go. -In the small town of Lüneburg, the Middle Ages are on display. A charming medieval city that built its wealth on local salt in the 12th century. This city no longer holds any secrets for François. This Parisian became an official guide after living in the region for 35 years. -Lüneburg is known in Germany for its salt. They became rich with salt. In German, there’s a word, when you want to say that someone is very rich, you say: “stein reich”. It means “rich with stones”. Here we are at the port of Lüneburg. There are the two boats with which they transported salt at the time. They pulled it with ropes, all the way to the Elbe. It took them 3 to 4 weeks at the time . This is the old Lüneburg crane. That’s what they used to use to load the boats. It’s the symbol of the city. -A symbol to which François has the key. -There. We’re going home. It works with two wheels. Two squirrel wheels , that’s what we would say in French. At the time, there were four of them. So two per wheel. We hold onto these metal bars and walk. The chief crane operator at the time was sitting there . He gave the orders. “Up” or “down.” So either we turn one way. Or we turn around and walk the other way. This makes the chain or the ropes go up or down. That’s what I like, knowing that everything is original, that we can show it to people and that it still works. -Under the ground of Lüneburg, reserves of extremely pure, highly saline water . At the salt museum, François reveals the conditions under which these brines were exploited with Rudiger Beche, the city’s water manager. -Come on, Rudiger, let’s go see over there. It’s dark, be careful, we can’t see anything. -Should we wear a helmet? -Ja! -The water was brought up by wells and the salt was then obtained by evaporation after cooking. -So this is the source. This is what it looked like back then. This is where they drew the brine. They were dressed in linen outfits. They were naked, they shouldn’t have stolen salt. At the beach and you get a cut, it burns! Imagine, there, you’re naked and you work 10 hours in these conditions, with the salt, it’s worse than slavery. They didn’t live long. The salt was very pure. They cooked it. We know coarse salt, it’s gray. Because it was pure and white, it was called white gold. Real Lüneburg salt costs 6 euros per 100g. That’s 60 euros per kilo. -The extraction of salt was then mechanized. Too expensive, its exploitation ceased in 1980. Other installations sought to recover the salt by increasing its content in the water. Like this “gradierwerk”, a green wall made of blackthorn branches. -The water that arrives here is carried to the drawing point and into the gutter where the overflows are located , which then flow onto the branches, onto the blackthorn wood. -The salt that evaporates goes into the air and creates a vapor that goes outside. We create an oceanic climate, a sea climate, artificial. -A sort of giant inhaler. The use of the gradierwerk is gradually moving towards well-being. This wall dates from 1907 and has just been renovated. -It’s good for the lungs and the respiratory tract. When the first Gardierwerk was built here, it was for people suffering from respiratory illnesses. There are still people sitting there, looking at it, and just enjoying the peace and quiet that reigns in these places and in the air. -Do you come here often? Do you like it? -Very much. I really enjoy it. I’m hopeful that the Gardierwerk will be widely visited again after a year of renovation. It’s really changed. The roof is new. I’ve always come here regularly. -Do you also come for your respiratory tract? -Yes, as a preventative measure. -Preventatively, yes! Laughter. -I hope it will be useful to me. Even at my age. -Of course. -For their well-being, Germans have a widespread custom: going to baths regularly. A practice even more justified in the salty waters of Lüneburg. -Hello! Is the water pleasant today? -Yes, thank you. -Have you ever floated lying on the surface? -Yes. -Even more than inhalation, swimming in iodized water has proven its benefits. -It’s good for my body. That’s why I come here to relax. Yes, to do myself good. And it also helps with acne and other skin problems. It softens the skin. It improves blood circulation. -It also helps with physical recovery. Simply do nothing, move in saline water and no longer feel the weight of your body. Enjoy a feeling of weightlessness that triggers great relaxation, which is definitely beneficial for your health. -Once a vital resource, today an ally of well-being and health, white gold continues to be the pride and joy of Lüneburg. … -I’m continuing my discovery of Hamburg with you, Heïko, in a particular part of the city, I would even say with a somewhat shady reputation, it’s Sankt Paoli. -Yes. Sankt Paoli was this area where there weren’t really any rules, or different rules. This street is called “Grosse Freiheit,” “the great freedom.” When the sailors arrived, there were prostitutes in the streets. -It’s a little bit of a reference to Paris, like the Pigalle district. -Yes. Because it’s also a melting pot. There’s the red light district with strip clubs, but it’s also been an entertainment district from the beginning. The famous Hamburg zoo was here. They had sea lions , and the first cinema was here. Everything that emerged was here first. -So, we see some really recognizable silhouettes in front of us . These are the Beatles. We might ask ourselves, the Beatles, what’s their connection with Hamburg? For them, this is where it all began. -In the early 60s, clubs would bring bands from Great Britain to play. That’s how the Beatles came here. It was down the street, at the Indra, that they started. The club still exists. Chuck Berry and Little Richard played here. It had an influence on the Beatles’ music, because they rubbed shoulders on stage. They had to play until 8 or 10 a.m. a night. I think John Lennon said, “We were born and raised in Liverpool, but we came of age in Hamburg.” -OK? You’re an actor, lyricist, writer, and you’re behind one of the most popular German-language comedies, which is performed in this theater, The Tivoli. You have to tell me more about it. -It’s called: “Heisse Ecke” It could be translated as “hot corner”. It tells the story of 24 hours on this street by showing 5 to 10 minutes of each hour. So we see all night, then in the morning, drunks, prostitutes, people die and a baby is born. So it’s about life in general in a turn of the clock. -The very story of the creation of this show is crazy. -There was a two-month gap in the theater’s calendar. They said to me, “Can you write a show “quickly?” We were crazy, we wrote the play in 6 weeks knowing it was only supposed to last two months. 20 years later, it’s still running. -You’re too humble to say, but millions of spectators have seen the show. How many? -3 million. -You wrote this show, but you’re also acting in it. -I’m acting tonight, it’s been a while since I’ve done it. It’s exciting. -Great! … -Aaaah! These are my friends. -Hi, I’m Christian. Nice to meet you. -Me too. -Hi. -Hi, I’m Alex. -Hi, Alex. -Christian is the drag tour guide. Alex is a magician. -Your friends, according to you, really represent the spirit of the neighborhood. -Yes, at any time of the day or night. There are mornings with a hangover and long nights of partying. -You’re not the same in the morning and in the evening. -You can be whoever you want in Hamburg. And especially in Sankt Paoli. If you want to become a drag queen, for example, it’s not possible in the village where I come from. That’s why I live in Hamburg. -I’ve always been a rather strange person in terms of looks and that kind of thing. In Hamburg, sometimes I don’t even stand out. Laughs. Hamburg is a good example of how living together is possible. The result is happy residents, I guess. -I love this state of mind. Thank you for introducing me to your friends. -I’d like to invite you to Heiko’s show, but dressed differently. I have to get ready. -OK. -Would you like to? -With pleasure. With great pleasure, yes. To the show! OK, thank you. This hall is beautiful! -It dates from 1895 or 98. It used to be a hall dance. This isn’t a real theater. No one here! -And this is your dressing room. -This is where I get ready. -What characters do you play in the show? -I’m a garbage collector. I’m a punter. I’m one of three guys at a stag party. There are over 50 roles and there are only 9 of us. We’re constantly backstage changing characters. -Well, I’m going to meet Christian. -Or Fanny Fantastic. -OK. Fanny Fantastic. … -Hi! Oh my! You look amazing! -Do you remember me? -Uh… Yes! Laughter. You look amazing! When was Fanny Fantastic born? Shall we sit down? -Sure. Actually, it’s a bit because of or thanks to Heiko that Fanny was born because he wrote a play for the Schmitt Theater, next to the Tivoli. A queer play and Heiko asked me if I could play a role. I had never done it. That was the starting point for Fanny Fantastic. It’s the best thing that ever happened to me. You just have to put on makeup and you can express other personalities that you have inside you. When I take off my makeup, no one can recognize Fanny. It’s a perfect life. Perfect life. -I’m delighted to have met Christian and Fanny. Applause. -Beauty, your right leg is as beautiful as Christmas and your left, as beautiful as New Year’s. I can visit you between the holidays. Laughter. -Don’t touch me and fuck off, you idiot. Song in German. … … -Hey, cowboy. Shall I take you home? -Never mind, he’s got no money. -I’ve got no money. She sings off key. -Between yesterday and tomorrow. -Most likely tomorrow. Laughter . … Foghorn. … -Uschi? -Yes. -I didn’t know if I’d find you in this crowd. I was supposed to end this weekend with you. What a crowd tonight! -Yes, that’s really what I love about Hamburg. It always surprises me. I love this party atmosphere and I hope you’ll take it with you and come back to see me. -Now that I know you, I’d gladly come back to Hamburg. I will come back to discover again this beautiful city which has many faces, many facets. Whether it is this gateway to the world, this port city, this rather unique and singular cultural capital . Hamburg is many things at once. I invite you to discover for yourselves this Hanseatic city as it is called. I send you a big kiss. Have a wonderful trip. We have a fireworks display to end this weekend. See you soon! – Bye! … france.tv access