Rick Steves Poland

Rick Steves’ Europe Travel Guide © 2025 | This one-hour “best of Poland” special begins in Kraków, with a stunning square, historic castle, and nearby, communist-era Nowa Huta and Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp memorial. Then we head to bustling Warsaw for skyscrapers and Chopin, sample gingerbread in Toruń, and ogle red-brick Malbork Castle. We finish in Gdańsk with handsome Hanseatic townhouses and stirring Solidarity history.

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00:00 Introduction to Poland
02:27 Kraków
10:59 Vodka and Traditional Cuisine
15:40 Wawel Hill and Its Heritage
19:38 Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial
24:24 Nowa Huta and Communist History
27:45 Food Market and Making Pierogi
29:49 Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz
30:48 Warsaw
35:00 Chopin in the Park
36:02 Jewish History and Uprising
39:07 Warsaw Today
40:43 Toruń
41:35 Gingerbread Museum
42:45 Malbork Castle
44:24 Gdańsk
50:54 The Rise of Solidarity
53:25 Gdańsk Today

#ricksteves #ricksteveseurope #poland

Hey, I’m Rick Steves
and we’re in Poland. This is a land of soul and pride
with a hard history that created an epic story
and a strong culture. In this special,
we’ll see why this is such a rewarding place to visit. Thanks for joining us. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ In this hour, we’ll see Poland’s highlights: Kraków’s crowd-pleasing
square, its medieval glory, and tasty cuisine. -Wow. Potato pancakes. Grandma’s food
is always the best food. -We’ll remember the horror
of the Holocaust and take a nostalgic
communist-era joy ride. We’ll cook like a local —
or at least try… and cap our visit
with a twilight stroll. Warsaw, Poland’s
cosmopolitan capital, is gilded with a grand palace
and a trendy urbanity. We’ll learn about its
turbulent 20th century and enjoy some Chopin
in the park. Then we visit
a gingerbread medieval town, taste its sweet claim to fame, and storm a massive
Teutonic fortress. Finally, we’ll discover
the port of Gdańsk and how it helped bring
down communism in Europe. Poland — about the
size of Arizona — sits in the north
of central Europe. Medieval Poland was prominent on
Europe’s map, but in the late
1700s it disappeared, partitioned by its
powerful neighbors. It reappeared
after WWI. Then, after WWII,
it was part of communist
Eastern Europe. And today, with the Iron Curtain long gone, Poland is a
leading country in Central Europe. We’re following
the Vistula River — from Poland’s
historic and cultural
capital Kraków, to its modern
capital Warsaw, further north, past Toruń and
Malbork Castle, and finishing at
Gdańsk on the
Baltic Sea. ♪ Poland’s political capital may have moved to Warsaw
centuries ago, but Kraków
remains the historic, cultural, and intellectual capital… a proud symbol
of the Polish national identity. Kraków —
or, as locals like to say, “Crock-oof” —
was a trading center, a crossroads that boomed
back in the 11th century. Today, it’s a sprawling city
of a million with a delightful Old Town. And everything converges
on the majestic and massive Main Market Square. It’s hard not to be drawn
to this square. It bustles with life — enticing cafes… families out for a stroll… fairy-tale carriages… ♪ a youthful energy, and, it seems,
half the tourists in Poland. ♪ St. Mary’s Church
stands tall over it all. Its spire doubles
as the town watchtower. ♪ [ Bell tolling ] At the top of each
hour — literally 24/7 — a fireman with a trumpet
comes to the window and plays a tune…
[ Trumpet playing ] to announce “all is well”… a tune that suddenly dies — recalling a legend
in which a watchman’s throat was pierced by an enemy arrow. [ Trumpet stops playing
abruptly ] [ Applause ] Inside St. Mary’s each midday
is a medieval moment: a nun swings open the doors’
much-adored altarpiece. ♪ This exquisite Gothic triptych
with hinged panels was carved in the late 1400s
by Veit Stoss. One of the most impressive
medieval woodcarvings in Europe, it depicts the Virgin Mary’s
ascent to heaven with emotion rare in Gothic art. ♪ The square’s centerpiece
is the Cloth Hall. Once a marketplace
for cloth merchants, today it’s home
to souvenir stalls. Vendors sell gifty crafts
from all over Poland. Like painted wooden plates
from the mountain forests… colorful embroidery
delicately hand-stitched… hand-painted pottery
from Silesia… and amber jewelry
from the Baltic Coast, for your favorite
travel partner. Kraków’s Old Town is compact
and easy to navigate. The vibe is relaxed as modern
and medieval mix it up. In the 13th century,
after their city was destroyed by invaders from the east, Krakówians rebuilt it
with a near-perfect grid plan. Today, it’s pedestrian-friendly
and thriving. They also encircled their city
with a wall featuring classic ramparts
and towers. The big, round free-standing
fort is a barbican, which provided extra protection
at the main gate. Later, the wall
was mostly torn down leaving just a few
evocative remnants. ♪ The moat was filled in, and a fine park was created
in its place. This circular green belt,
called the Planty, is popular with
today’s Krakówians. And if you need a break
from all the tourists, you can bike or hike
around the Planty and along the riverbank. It’s a charming local scene — fun-loving boaters… lazy picnics… but beware the dragon! ♪ Oh, and if you think
you’re good at chess, challenge one of these guys. ♪ The riverside path
is inviting… and so is the playful rigging on its delightful
pedestrian bridge. ♪ Cultured Kraków
comes with fine museums. ♪ The Czartoryski Museum shows off
the eclectic collection of a local aristocrat. Its galleries span
the centuries… and it’s worth a visit for
one painting in particular — Leonardo da Vinci’s
“Lady with an Ermine.” ♪ Leonardo painted
this lifelike portrait before his more famous
“Mona Lisa,” but he used the same
enigmatic smile. The subject was likely
the 16-year-old mistress of the powerful Duke of Milan. She was famous
for her beauty and charm. ♪ Her white ermine was a symbol
of loyalty and purity… ♪ …but it was also the nickname
of her lover. I guess it’s up to the viewer to
decide what’s really goin’ on. Kraków has been called
“Little Rome.” That’s because of
its many churches. There are 23
in the Old Town alone. [ Choir singing ] The country is
devoutly Catholic. ♪ Almost 2/3 of Poles
attend weekly Mass, so churches here aren’t just
tourist attractions — they’re alive with worshipers. Catholicism is central
to Polish identity. ♪ [ Singing ends ] Squeezed for centuries
between Protestant Germans and Orthodox Russia,
Poles were united and strengthened
by their Catholic faith. And after WWII, when Poland was ruled
by anti-Church communists, going to Mass
was more than worship — it was a political statement… a chance to express both dissent
and a desire for freedom. It was during
these challenging times that a charismatic Kraków priest
named Karol Wojtyła led his flock in defiance
of communist authorities. Throughout
the 1950s, ’60s, and ’70s, he fought for
the right to worship inside the communist state. The Church hierarchy
was impressed, and in 1978,
that humble Polish priest was elected Pope John Paul II. The first non-Italian pope
in centuries was made a saint in 2014. Although he’s
a controversial figure to some, many locals consider him
“the greatest Pole.” Kraków’s Franciscan Church
was special to John Paul. He’d come here all alone
to pray. ♪ This was his favorite pew,
way in the back. To people across
the Eastern Bloc, and to Catholics worldwide,
Pope John Paul II embodied the resistance
fighting Soviet rule, and he inspired
the Polish people with his soothing refrain,
“Have no fear.” The church is also
a fine introduction to Art Nouveau Polish style. ♪ With its stained glass
weaving together images of the favorite
Franciscan saints, it employs the movement’s
characteristic organic swoops and floral motifs. Another window shows God
in the Act of Creation, turning natural light
into spiritual energy. ♪ The Art Nouveau style flourished
across Europe in the early 20th century. While Klimt was painting
in Vienna, and Mucha was busy in Prague, Poland’s Art Nouveau movement
was led by Stanisław Wyspiański. ♪ At the museum
dedicated to the artist, you see how the movement
was playful, lyrical, and inspired by folklore. ♪ Wyspiański
and his fellow artists mixed gloom and mysticism into beauty
that came with a message — the spirit of Poland
will live on. ♪ To learn more about Polish
culture, I’m joined by my friend and fellow tour guide,
Tomasz Klimek. Every time I travel in Poland, it seems vodka is
quite important. What does vodka mean to Poland? -Vodka is definitely
our national drink. We take it very seriously.
We’re very proud of it. Polish vodka is a brand that
is renowned all over the world, and we do take our vodka
very seriously. So Polish vodka, does
that mean Polish ingredients? Polish vodka has to be
not only made in Poland but made from Polish
local ingredients. And those could be
either potatoes, so we have potato vodka,
or grain. -So is this potatoes or grain?
-This one is grain vodka. -Which do you like better?
-I like grain better. That’s my favorite. -So is there a ritual for
drinking it in a pub or a bar? -Yes, there is.
When we celebrate, we drink it with our friends,
and we do mainly the shots. And we don’t sip it like this.
We just do the bottoms up. -Is that right? No sipping?
-No sipping. -What if I sip?
What do people think? -Well, if you want to be
really local, you better do the bottoms up. -Okay, so really,
just throw it right down. -Exactly.
-And how do you say “toast?” -“Na zdrowie.”
-“Na zdrowie.” -And bottoms up. [ Exhales sharply ]
-[ Chuckles ] Ha! -Yes! -With or without vodka,
Poles know how to have fun. On this warm September evening, people are out and about
enjoying the moment — whether at cafes with a view,
in the back streets, or in characteristic
cellar bars. It’s time for
a traditional Polish dinner, and Tomasz is eager
to give us an education in his favorite cuisine. I get a feeling that in Poland the cuisine is a
very proud part of the culture. -Yes, and getting to know
the culture through its food is always the best way, and tonight we’re trying
all the classics. They always start
with the soup. Soup is an integral part
of our meal, so we have around 200 different
soups for different occasions, and today we’re having
the most traditional ones. So what you’re having
is called “zurek.” -“Zurek.”
-“Zurek,” perfect. Fermented rye flour forms
a base for the soup. -I can taste that — that rye.
There’s that sourness. Fermented rye.
And what’s yours? -And I am having borscht.
-Borscht? -Yes, just beetroot soup
with the pieces of beetroot, with potatoes,
and with dill as a final touch. -This is a good start
to the meal. How do we say “bon appétit?”
-In Poland, we say :smacznego.” -“Smacznego.”
-“Smacznego,” perfect. -Alright.
-“Smacznego.” Enjoy your meal. ♪ -Oh.
-Wow. Potato pancakes… Thank you. Always one of Polish classics,
potato pancakes. Crispy on the outside,
soft inside, which is a secret
of every grandma. So, there are many different
ways of having potato pancakes. One is with sour cream. The other traditional way is
having them with goulash. -I bet there’s a lot of
childhood memories on that plate.
-Oh, yes, because, you know, grandma’s
food is always the best food. This is the one
that you remember, so, yes. -This restaurant specializes
in grandma’s cooking. Krakówians come for
both the great food and to feel nostalgic. So now our education
in Polish cuisine continues. -Yes, we continue
with three other classics. We have Polish sausage,
kielbasa. This is something you must try
while you’re in Poland and we’re having
the grilled version right now served with onions fried
on butter together with mustard. -Sausage and beers.
-Always. -Life is good.
-Always together. -What’s next?
-So, the next is “bigos.” “Bigos” sometimes being translated
as a hunter’s stew. Basically, fermented cabbage,
meat, sausage, mushroom, and a lot of spices
boiled for many days. -And there’s another plate.
-And there’s another plate, another Polish classic, “gołąbki.” -So “gołąbki,” cabbage rolls that
are stuffed with rice and meat. And we serve them
with tomato sauce. ♪ No matter how much you eat,
there’s always room for dessert, so we are having a “racuchy.” “Racuchy” is a…you would call
it like apple fritter. It comes not only
with the powdered sugar, but also with vanilla and berry
sauce that you put on top of it. ♪ -This is great. And, you know,
food tastes even better when you know a little bit
about what you’re eating. -It’s true. -From Kraków’s Old Town, a ramp leads up to
the most hallowed ground in all of Poland. Wawel Hill is sacred
to the Polish people — a castle and royal residence
since the 11th century. The park-like scene entices
Poles to drop by and celebrate their nation’s
epic story. Everything is layered
in history, including the venerable
Wawel Cathedral. Architecturally,
it’s a hodgepodge — a riot of towers and chapels. This national church,
with its many tombs, is a who’s who of the nation’s
most beloved figures — from saints, to generals,
to kings and queens. And if you’re going to remember
only one name, make it Kazimierz the Great. He ruled Poland from Kraków
in the 14th century. The larger-than-life
Kazimierz was a great warrior, diplomat, and patron
of the arts. His scribes bragged that “Kazimierz found
Poland made of wood, and left it made of stone
and brick.” In fact, he even made it
onto the 50-złoty note. Kazimierz provided refuge for
Jews expelled from other lands, and he established the tradition that Poland would provide
safe refuge for Europe’s Jews. In fact, for centuries, an estimated 1/3
of the world’s Jews lived right here in a land
known as “the Jewish paradise.” While they still faced
some persecution, Jews carved out a relatively
vital niche in Polish society, as Poland became home to an estimated
1/3 of the world’s Jews. Kraków’s historic Jewish
district is named for Kazimierz. Until the 20th century, Jews made up a quarter
of Kraków’s population. Of the neighborhood’s
many historic synagogues, some are still places
of worship. ♪ But today the economy is
mostly tourism. And touristy restaurants
feature klezmer, a Jewish traditional folk music that stokes a nostalgia
for their poignant story. ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ [ Cheers and applause ] ♪ The Old Cemetery of Kazimierz
also honors the Jewish past. This grave remembers
a beloved 16th century-rabbi. Prayers are lovingly tucked
into the cracks and crevices of his tombstone, and rocks
stacked atop tombs — also representing prayers — recall the ancient
Jewish tradition of covering sandy graves
with stones to prevent them
from being disturbed. Jewish cemeteries,
like the community of Kazimierz itself,
were nearly destroyed after Nazi Germany invaded
Poland in 1939. ♪ Gravestones, crushed
under Nazi tank treads, were later assembled
into memorial mosaic walls. ♪ During the Holocaust, the vast majority
of Kraków’s Jews ended up in concentration camps, and fewer than 1 in 10
survived World War II. About an hour away is perhaps the most powerful Holocaust
memorial in all of Europe — the concentration camp
at Auschwitz-Birkenau. This was the biggest
and most notorious concentration camp
in the vast Nazi system. After invading
and occupying Poland in 1939, Nazi Germany built
many such camps here, far from
mainstream German society. Ultimately, they murdered an
estimated six million people — mostly Jews, and about half of those
came from Poland. The Nazis turned this army base
into a death camp. Over a million people,
the vast majority of them Jews, were systematically exterminated
here at Auschwitz. The notorious gate welcomed
inmates with a cruel lie: “Arbeit Macht Frei.” “Work will set you free.” The former cell blocks
now display powerful museum exhibits
that, while difficult to see, must, out of respect
to its victims, be seen. ♪ People were told
they’d be starting new lives and to bring luggage — clearly
labeled with their names. After they were killed, everything of value
was seized and sorted. Crutches and prosthetic limbs
remind us that the first people
exterminated were the mentally
and physically ill. Piles of glasses… a seemingly endless mountain
of shoes… it’s hard to comprehend
the numbers. Even children.
The Nazis spared no one. ♪ Halls are lined with photographs
of victims — men… ♪ and women… each marked with the date of
arrival and the date of death. Inmates rarely survived
more than a couple months. The gas chamber and crematorium
is marked by its chimney. Up to 700 people at a time
could be gassed, but it required two days to burn
that many bodies. The Nazis wanted an
even higher death toll, so they built a
far bigger camp nearby. That camp, called Birkenau, was an efficient factory
for the mass production of death designed to implement the Nazis’
Final Solution — genocide… the murder of all Jews. It could hold about 100,000
prisoners at a time. People from all over Europe
were loaded like animals into train cars like this. They’d pass
under the infamous gatehouse, into the camp,
and to the dividing platform. ♪ A Nazi doctor stood here
and evaluated each prisoner as they stepped off the train. If he pointed one way,
that prisoner marched, unknowingly,
directly to the gas chamber. If he pointed the other, the person was judged
fit to work and would live a little longer. It was here that countless
families from across Europe were torn apart forever. Barracks were packed with up to
1,000 prisoners — each person with an ID number
rather than a name. Two chimneys connected
by a brick duct provided a little heat. The bricks are worn smooth
by countless inmates who sat here
to catch a little warmth in the middle
of a bitter Polish winter. I can’t imagine
how cold they must have been, hungry, wet,
and dressed in rags… and terrified. As the Allies advanced
and Germany retreated, the Nazis bombed the evidence
of their crimes. The gas chambers,
where the mass killing was done, were disguised as showers. People were given hooks
to hang their clothes on, conned into thinking
they’d be coming back. The Nazis didn’t want a panic. Then the inmates piled
into the “shower room.” At Birkenau,
the Nazis gassed and cremated thousands of people per day. The camp monument
represents gravestones and the chimney
of a crematorium. Plaques,
in each of the languages spoken by camp victims, explain the mission
of this memorial. ♪ Back in Kraków,
tourists can learn about the next chapter
of Poland’s story — becoming a Soviet satellite
after World War II. One entertaining
yet informative way to get a peek at that is by looking
through the windows of tiny communist-era cars.
-Hop in. -And we’ll do the same,
visiting the communist-planned workers’ town of Nowa Huta. Oh, I love this little car. -Don’t get too comfortable.
[ Laughter ] -And our guide is Cornelia. This is such a treat.
Tell me about this little car. -So we are driving a famous
Trabant from East Germany, a very popular family car
in Poland. Also one of few to choose from, so people had no choice and they
were happy with what they got. -Was it easy to get the car? -Not so easy. Like,
you had to wait quite a lot. 10, 15 years.
Record in Poland is 20 years. ♪ -So tell me about
this neighborhood. What is this?
-We are in Nowa Huta district. It’s a communist model city
from the ’50s. The only place like that
in Poland, actually. So, it’s supposed
to be a showcase, kind of proving
that communism works — people get jobs, apartments,
and they’re happy. -Nowa Huta was designed around
a new enormous steel mill, the largest in Poland. Called the Lenin Steelworks, it employed
nearly 40,000 workers who worked in 3 shifts,
24 hours a day. It was intended
as a high-production factory to show off the Soviet Bloc’s
industrial might. How many people lived
in Nowa Huta? -The design was
for 100,000 people, but it was like
a worker’s paradise. So most men had a job
in one factory over here, steelworks, and families, women,
you had jobs like services, hospitals,
so it was self-sufficient town. -So why did Stalin want to give
that plan to Kraków? -Well, one of the main reasons
for sure were to punish
the Intelligentsia, to kind of counterbalance
this society in Kraków with a lot of churches,
universities, with workers
which before were farmers and had quite simple lives. -So punish Kraków for having
culture, education, and churches? -Yeah.
-What was it like to actually live here in the ’50s?
-So after the war, this was a very attractive place
for people to come. So they had jobs,
they had apartments for free, and shops were even better
than the center. They wanted to show people
in Kraków that it’s working. So after the war,
that was a good place to live. -So what is the story of
Nowa Huta after communism fell? -After communism fell,
it was not the best place to be, especially that you had a job
in the factory, which you probably lost
in the ’90s. But now within 30 years’ time, this is a pretty nice place
to live in. People are happy, people have
beautiful space to live in, and they definitely prefer it more than being
in the busy center. Probably one of the best
districts to live in Kraków. -And the central plaza, reflecting the transition
from communism to democracy and capitalism, is called Ronald Reagan Square. ♪ Back in the heart of Kraków, we’re meeting up
with Tomasz again to do some shopping
at the market. It’s a festival
of fresh and local produce — berries… mushrooms… eggs right off the farm… fresh baked bread… mountain cheeses… sausages,
and other rustic village food. Some of these humble family
businesses go back generations. In a market like this,
the community comes together shopping daily,
taking full advantage of the fertility of this land. And as Tomasz will attempt
to teach me how to cook a classic
Polish dish, we’re buying
the necessary ingredients. -Alright.
-Okay. -[ Indistinct ]
-Thank you. -Flip it over
onto the dough board. -In Tomasz’s kitchen, I’m
learning how to make pierogi. First, you knead
the potato dough to just the right texture.
-It’s very relaxing. It’s like going to a spa
for your body and soul. -Is Grandma looking down?
-I hope she is. -[ Chuckles ] Then you roll it out,
flat as a Polish crepe… -You want it
as thin as possible, because our dough
is generally flavorless. What gives flavor to our dish
is the filling and topping. -…and cut out small discs. -Beautiful. Mm-hmm.
-Circle. Making cute little pockets, you tuck in the cheese,
onion, and meat filling, then seal it water-tight
around the edges. -[ Indistinct ]
-There we go. -Your first pierogi.
Congratulations! And we just wait
for them to float. -After a short boiling bath,
they’re ready to eat. In true family style, we enjoy a little sunshine
in the backyard and a classic Polish meal just like grandma,
or “babcia,” used to make. “Dziękuję, babcia.”
-“Dziękuję, babcia,” yes. I hope she’s proud. -Alright. Let’s work off
some of that pierogi with an evening walk
and one last slice of Kraków. The Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, has transformed
into a thriving night spot with trendy pubs and restaurants
and an inviting energy. The round market hall
is now a food circus popular with families
and locals out on a cheap date, many munching “zapiekanka,”
the local pizza. ♪ And back at
the Main Market Square, locals and visitors alike
make the scene. Cafes are full… the horse carriages
add to the genteel atmosphere… and it’s all about
another great travel tip — savoring the moment. As the sun sets
and the lights come on, Kraków takes on a timeless
and romantic aura. ♪ About 150 miles north
down the Vistula River lies the capital city, Warsaw — the heartbeat of
contemporary Poland. Warsaw
is an energetic metropolis offering a fascinating foray
into urban Poland. It comes with both a hard-fought
history and a modern vibrancy. Today, Warsaw —
pronounced “var-SHA-va” here — is Poland’s biggest city with
close to two million people. It’s muscular and sprawling, broad boulevards
and imposing buildings, and glittering
glass office towers. Today’s Warsaw is a thriving
European center of business, banking, and politics
with a cosmopolitan energy. Warsaw’s glory days peaked
between the World Wars, when it was one of Europe’s
most genteel capitals. That spirit survives along
its rebuilt sweeping main drag, the sweeping Royal Way, with its elegant facades and its
popularity with local strollers. Just being out and about, you feel the youthful confidence
of this society. Stately hotels
and government buildings — this is
the president’s residence — add to the Royal Way’s grandeur. The Blikle bakery is every
Pole’s favorite for “paczki” — jelly donuts. ♪ When locals here
“go out for doughnuts,” they go out for “paczki.” My favorite is the classic. It’s filled with wild rose jam. Mmm! But it’s not
all jelly doughnuts. Vast squares with memorials
remind all of Poland’s hard-fought history. Here, the eternal flame
honors war dead with numbers
almost incomprehensible. As the city
was totally destroyed by Nazis in World War II, nearly everything
you’ll see — palaces, churches,
and fountains — was painstakingly rebuilt
from the rubble of 1945. I keep having to remind myself
that, in this city, hardly a building standing is
over 80 years old. Consequently, Warsaw is
an architectural jumble, rebuilt both old and new. ♪ Warsaw’s meticulously rebuilt
Old Town is dominated by its meticulously rebuilt
Royal Castle. The castle,
a symbol of Polish sovereignty now for over 400 years, boasts some of this country’s
most lavish halls, gilded and glittering
with chandeliers. The palace reflects
how Poland was independent and strong for centuries,
starting in the Middle Ages. When the home-grown dynasty
died out, Poland’s nobility elected
foreign kings at gatherings like this. Many of those imported rulers
squandered Poland’s resources on their own selfish agendas. They weakened the country until it actually ceased
to exist in 1795. For over 100 years, Poland
disappeared from the map, partitioned by three empires — Prussia, Austria, and Russia. But the Poles succeeded
in preserving their culture until their country was reborn
in 1918 after WWI. Today, back out on the streets, the atmospheric Old Town
entertains tourists. Here the 21st century seems
to rule these cobbled lanes. The Market Square is another painstakingly reconstructed part
of the old town. It’s a great place
to get something to eat or just relax and people watch. The mermaid —
a symbol of Warsaw — serenades the townspeople, still welcoming friends
while keeping out foes. To me, this fountain, always
energetic with kids playing, feels like a celebration
of life… Polish life. ♪ And Polish life comes
with music, especially the genius
of favorite son, Frédéric Chopin. On summer Sundays,
Chopin concerts pack the park. It’s an expression of this
city’s pride in its culture and in an enduring appetite
for community. ♪ Poland’s great Romantic composer
sits under a willow tree. Though he lived and worked
mostly in Paris, locals cherish the thought
that Chopin’s inspiration came from memories of the breeze
blowing through the willow trees of his native land, Poland. ♪ ♪ Warsaw museums work hard to
explain its complicated history, and much of Poland’s story
is a Jewish story. The Museum of the History
of Polish Jews celebrates a thousand years
of Jews living in Poland. A winding route traces
their experience. ♪ With the relative tolerance
of medieval kings, Jews became established
in Polish society. But because they still suffered
through pogroms and other persecution,
few actual artifacts survive. Many Jews lived
in market towns called “shtetls,” with richly decorated
wooden synagogues. Above the traditional
elevated prayer platform is a colorful ceiling, a humble canopy rich
with symbolism. When Poland regained its
independence after World War I, Jewish culture blossomed, especially in the 1920s
when, for the first time, Jews had full citizenship
and voting rights. And Warsaw was the biggest
Jewish city in Europe. [ Explosions ] Tragically, this flourishing
of Jewish culture was crushed when Fascist Germany
invaded in 1939. Jews were then corralled
into a miserable ghetto… subjected
to unlivable conditions before being shipped off
to Nazi death camps and killed. ♪ A monument captures
the desperation of the ghetto’s last days. Realizing they were
all doomed anyway, the haggard and hungry
who remained staged a desperate uprising. Nearly all were killed. This was just one city’s
experience in a Europe-wide Holocaust. In this attempted genocide, Hitler tried to rid the world
of Jewish people. Of the six million he killed,
half died here in Poland. ♪ With its Jewish population
decimated, Warsaw’s next chapter was a second
valiant but doomed uprising — this time by the non-Jewish
Poles who remained. Under Nazi occupation,
Poles had formed the biggest underground resistance army
in history. Late in the war,
as the Nazis began to falter and the Soviets advanced, Poland’s Home Army mobilized
to liberate the country. ♪ But the Nazis regrouped and brutally put down
the Warsaw Uprising. Hitler then ordered that Warsaw be “destroyed
to its foundations.” ♪ The Soviet Army sat here,
across the river, and watched and waited. Finally,
when the Germans were gone, the Russians marched in
to claim the wasteland that was once Warsaw, kicking off over four decades
of communist rule. Like a phoenix, this city
has risen from the ashes. And today, Warsaw is filled with a happy
and youthful populace that has no living memory
of those hard times. ♪ Today’s Warsaw’s
is hip and trendy. Hulking old buildings — no
longer fascist or communist — are filled with a rainbow
of global food choices. ♪ “Post-industrial” architecture
is all the rage. Old red-brick factories
and power plants have been transformed
into convivial hubs for dining, drinking, and shopping. ♪ I’m joined by my friend and fellow guidebook author,
Cameron Hewitt and the show’s producer,
Simon Griffith, at Bibenda for a taste
of Warsaw’s urbane foodie scene. This trendy restaurant
specializes in craft cocktails and Polish fusion cuisine. The menu takes fresh
local ingredients like heirloom tomatoes
and beets and gives them
an international spin — padrón peppers… falafel… pumpkin dumplings… all washed down
with a good Spanish wine. Whether Polish or international, you can see that we thought
everything was delicious. It’s a reminder of
how cosmopolitan Warsaw respects Polish tradition while
also embracing a global future. I can’t think of a better way to
enjoy our last night in Warsaw. ♪ Heading north from Warsaw
through the rolling farmland of the Polish countryside,
we reach a small-town break from our big city itinerary,
Toruń. Toruń feels affluent. In the Middle Ages, it was part
of the Hanseatic League, a trade union of northern
European merchant cities. Like much of northern Poland, many of its buildings
are finely crafted of red brick. The city has
an easygoing ambiance that comes with
the heavenly scent of… gingerbread. Every Pole knows Toruń
for two reasons — Copernicus and gingerbread. ♪ This was the birthplace
of the astronomer Copernicus, who, 500 years ago, established that the Earth revolves
around the Sun. ♪ But today,
here in Toruń anyway, a lot revolves around this —
gingerbread. This recreated old bakery is
a favorite for field trips. Costumed guides teach
young students how, in the Middle Ages, Toruń’s trading connections
gave local bakers access to exotic spices — spices like ginger,
cinnamon, and clove — and how the honey in the dough
was a natural preservative, allowing it to be traded
far and wide. ♪ Then the children get to
actually roll the dough… ♪ press it into
traditional molds… and pop their little
creations into the oven. Local gingerbread shops
let you mix-and-match a variety of tasty treats, with any combination of
jams, glazes, and chocolate. For locals,
the word is actually a verb — if you’ve eaten too much,
you have “gingerbreaded.” ♪ I think this will get me
to our next stop. Further north
is the Malbork Castle, another red-brick masterpiece. Called the biggest brick castle
in the world, this was the 14th century
headquarters of the Teutonic Knights. These Germanic
Crusaders-turned-mercenaries were hired here
by a Christian duke to convert the local pagans. Job done, the Teutonic Knights
decided they liked it here. So they stuck around,
built this castle, and dominated northern Poland
for over a century. Malbork Castle was essentially
a fortified monastery — home to monks, knights, and
their leader, the Grand Master. Malbork’s fortifications
are formidable indeed. The complex was surrounded
by an imposing moat and a mighty brick wall. The heavy portcullis stopped
anyone who breached the moat. Then, from slits up above,
archers could rain down arrows. And the inner drawbridge made
the core of the castle an impenetrable last refuge. While knights lived
in the outer castle, monks lived in the inner castle. The Grand Master’s lavish
and well-fortified quarters with their fan-vaulted
assembly rooms and expansive dining halls were the capital
of those Teutonic Knights, from where they administered
their domain. The main attractions
of Poland — Kraków and most of what
we’re seeing in this program — are connected
by the Vistula River… the commercial
and cultural thread that has
tied this nation together since its earliest days. And we’re just an hour’s
drive from our last stop. Gdańsk, historically
Poland’s leading port, sits near where the Vistula
meets the Baltic Sea. For a thousand years,
a cultural crossroads with a rich maritime history,
architecturally it feels more Scandinavian or Dutch
than Polish. During its medieval golden age, Gdańsk prospered as a key member
of the Hanseatic League. The Hanseatic League
was an association of over 100 cities and ports
across Northern Europe. Its mission —
to protect and promote trade. Busy hunting down pirates,
building light houses, and boycotting ports
that didn’t join the club, it dominated the economy
and politics in the region through the late Middle Ages. In a way, the Hanseatic League
was a precursor to the European Union. Its motto,
“All power to the merchants.” Along the embankment
is a structure those merchants
put to good use — a hulking 15th-century crane. Back then, this entire river
could be filled, bank to bank, with trading vessels. Maritime trade
from distant lands made Gdańsk both prosperous and tolerant. It attracted merchants
from all over Europe who brought with them
elements of their home cultures. These were then woven
into the tapestry of the city, reflected in
its eclectic architecture. [ Bells chiming ] Overhead, the Town Hall tower
holds a carillon that marks each hour
with a cheerful tune. ♪ To better understand Gdańsk,
we’re joined by my friend and fellow tour guide
Agnieszka Syroka. Our first stop is the Town Hall. ♪ -So, the city was governed
from this exact room here. -And the art is —
There’s a lot of art here. -Yeah, that’s amazing, isn’t it? In the middle of the vaulting, have a look at this
magnificent painting from 1608. ♪ The Vistula River starts
over there in the mountains. Look at these barges
filled with the grain from all over
the Kingdom of Poland. So all the goods were shipped
from Gdańsk down the Vistula River
to the Baltic Sea. They are taking that grain, and that grain goes
all over Western Europe. And look, deals, businesses made here
in front of the Artus Court. -These would be traders
from all over Northern Europe, part of the Hanseatic League here making a deal,
shaking hands. -Indeed, like 1600 stock market. -And God’s hand. So, He’s holding not the church,
but the Town Hall. -Exactly. Because Gdańsk was
so multicultural and multi-religious
throughout centuries, it really never mattered
what religion you are, but how much money you can bring
to the city doing your business. -The Guildhall is next door. This is a magnificent room. -It’s a beautiful guild house, a great example
of a great social space where guilds,
medieval merchant groups, met. -Okay, so this is
like a networking. -Exactly, exactly.
Exclusive social club. Merchants from all over Europe were coming here
to do their business. Each arch belonged to one guild. Imagine in front of each arch
there was goldsmith guild, beer guild, amber guild. They were very competitive. They were coming here
to do their business. -So that the traders from Lübeck would meet the traders
from Amsterdam and from Riga coming together. -And then buying grain,
timber, coal, and exporting that
all over Europe. -The city is ornamented
with fine red-brick buildings. That’s because here
in the marshy north of Poland, stone is scarce. Grand buildings
like this old mill elevate bricklaying
to an art form. The old Market Hall has long
provided an impressive place for farmers to sell
their produce. The train station gives visitors
a red-brick welcome, and even
the modern shopping malls carry on this love of brick. And rising high above everything
is St. Mary’s Church, one of the biggest
brick churches anywhere. To be both tall and stable
without the strength of stone, it was fortified
with beefy brick buttresses. Stepping inside, you’re struck
by the stark, austere, and very white interior. This is a remarkable church. -Mary’s Church was built
before Reformation. Look at the beautiful
triptych altar, coronation of St. Virgin Mary. -So the altar piece is
from before the Reformation. -Exactly. And then the city
converted to Protestant. And what was really important
was the pulpit, because of the Word of God, and music coming from
magnificent organ. -Look at that pipe organ. This is like a pavement
of tombstones. -Exactly. 500 gravestones of the
wealthiest merchants of Gdansk who wanted to be buried here
in their parish church. And if not buried in a tomb, you could commemorate
your family on the wall with an epitaph. ♪ -In the shadow of the church, atmospheric Mariacka Street is
lined with traditional porches, clever gargoyles, and
vendors selling the prized amber that the Baltic Coast is
so famous for. ♪ For amber as high art, the striking Amber Museum
fills an old mill with precious deposits
of this fossilized tree sap. Much of the world’s amber
comes from Poland. Amber, which can be
tens of millions of years old, comes in shades of white,
yellow, and brown. It’s a favorite medium
of local artisans who create exquisite items from an organically
sculptured candelabra, to a chessboard that
would mesmerize a grand master. There’s an exquisite
miniature storage chest, and even furniture such
as this gorgeous writing desk. ♪ Gdańsk lived its most dramatic
moments in the 20th century. World War II began right here
in 1939, when Hitler invaded. And those cranes mark
the shipyard where, 40 years later in 1980, the Soviet Bloc
finally began to crack. During communist times, Gdańsk was home
to the massive Lenin Shipyard. In 1980, after decades
of frustrations and struggles, shipyard workers went on strike. They created a trade union
called Solidarity. Locking themselves
inside the shipyard, they refused to work and scrawled their list
of 21 demands on plywood. A fired shipyard electrician,
Lech Wałęsa, heard news of the strike. He came here and
literally climbed over the wall to get inside
and join his comrades. The strike had its leader. The European Solidarity Center, with its industrial-strength
architecture and inspiring exhibits, tells the story
both vividly and proudly. For 18 days, 17,000 workers — welders, machinists,
and steel-workers — stood strong. Their only connection
to the outside world was to come to the gate. There they’d pass messages
to family members and receive food, supplies,
and encouragement. ♪ The strikers were hungry,
tired, and scared, but they were both inspired
and emboldened by the new Polish pope,
John Paul II. Finally, the communist
authorities gave in and legalized the union. Half of the nation’s workforce
joined Solidarity, and change was in the air. But then,
after 16 hopeful months, Polish authorities,
fearful of Soviet intervention, declared martial law. Tanks rumbled through
the snowy streets of Poland, and the riot police
cracked down on dissidents. Solidarity went underground,
yet gained momentum. In 1989, the Round Table Talks
brought about elections. The result? Solidarity,
now a political party, won every available seat. ♪ These first cracks in
the Eastern Bloc spread quickly. Within a few months,
the Berlin Wall fell, borders opened up, communist regimes voted
themselves out of existence, and Lech Wałęsa was elected the first post-communist
president of Poland. Today, Gdańsk,
mindful of its history, is a forward-looking community. Facing the skyline
of old Gdańsk across the river is a modern development. Only recently rebuilt
from WWII bombings, it echoes
the historic roof lines. With its 21st century affluence,
Gdańsk provides its people a stylish boardwalk
for good living. Strolling here,
you feel the promise of a bright Polish future. ♪ The resilience
of Poland’s culture and the warmth of its people
inspire me. And learning from
this country’s hard history, I’m reminded that freedom,
peace, and prosperity are hard-earned and that we have lots
to be thankful for. I hope you’ve enjoyed our look at perhaps Europe’s
most underrated and surprising country. I’m Rick Steves. Until next time,
keep on travelin’! -It’s filled with
wild rose jam. ♪ -[ Chuckles ]
-Whoa! It’s a colorful,
historic port city with a dramatic
20th century story. [ Chuckles ] This is a — This —
[ Both chuckle ] -Go. -Oh. Ohh!
[ Laughter ] Like painted
wooden plates from mountain
forests. [ Laughs ] ♪