Échappées belles – Morbihan, la Bretagne dans la peau

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Échappées belles – Morbihan, la Bretagne dans la peau 4 octobre 2025

Niché au sud de la Bretagne, le Morbihan est une terre de contrastes, façonnée par les vents et les marées. Entre son golfe et ses îles sauvages, les landes, les menhirs et les ports animés, ce département offre un concentré de nature et d’histoires humaines vibrantes. Depuis des générations, les habitants entretiennent un lien intime avec leur environnement. Leur passion pour cette terre est si forte qu’elle les a menés à s’installer ici, ou à ne jamais en partir. C’est ici qu’ils créent, qu’ils s’engagent et qu’ils transmettent.

… -We’re walking along the Etel ria. It’s a bit like what we would call an aber or a fjord in other parts of the world, but smaller. It’s the sea that flows inland for about fifteen kilometers. We’re on an ebb tide, so the water slowly returns to the Atlantic Ocean. The place doesn’t empty completely; the channel remains. -It’s truly a natural symbol of Southern Brittany. -Even if the human presence is visible, it’s still a wild place. We’re in the middle of nature. -I like this leisurely pace to start my trip. It’s extraordinary, these houses on the islands. -Sophie, we’re heading towards the emblematic place of the area and we’re going to pass under this bridge and glide with the tide. -It’s magnificent. -Here we are. -It’s very beautiful. -It’s the islet of Nichtarguer. It means “the oyster house” in Breton. -A photo. -A granite house with blue shutters. -I think we’re in Brittany. This is a beautiful setting to start these “Echappées Belles” in Morbihan. I can’t wait to discover an inspiring, exciting, but also creative Morbihan. -Welcome to Brittany and Morbihan. -Thank you. … -It’s beautiful! There, the sails breathe. -In Morbihan… -I live here but I’m rediscovering the gulf. The lights, the landscapes, change all the time. -Beautiful palette. -Sophie Jovillard… -You peel off the salt around it because it accumulates on the sides. -…has Brittany in her skin. -Is it pretty? -And she’s not the only one. -I wanted to leave the city. I started out as an oyster farmer without knowing anything about it. -Bringing products from the other side of the world doesn’t make sense. What I use in my kitchen is produced, picked, or harvested within a 20 km radius. -Fishing must be in harmony with the environment. I fish as little as possible, which is paradoxical for a fisherman. -What you both have in common is that you’ve pursued your dreams. -An escape for those with sea legs… -It’s peaceful, an island. When the last shuttle leaves, we’re alone in the world. -And who have a sense of celebration. Accordion tune. … They speak Breton. -I really like this trip to Morbihan. … Hello, Julie. -Hello. -How beautiful! -Welcome. -Thank you. It’s magnificent. -The weather is with us. -We have beautiful light. So, you promised me a unique experience. -We’re going to board a rig. We’re going to live a great adventure. … -Here, we’re between Quiberon and the Gulf of Morbihan. It’s a dream come true for passing sailors. -It’s 12,000 hectares and there are 42 islands. There’s plenty to explore. It’s a unique place. -You fell in love with this boat. -Yes. I wanted to put a boat in my village. -You were seduced by Brittany. You’re not from here. -No. I spent time not far from the mountains, especially the Alps and the Jura. And then when I encountered the sea, I wanted to spend my life close to the water. I left everything behind. -Pink again? -Yes. -I wanted to talk to you about my passion, which I’ve been teaching for 4 years: “mermaiding,” or the art of swimming like a mermaid. Let me introduce you to today’s students, my mermaids. -You haven’t told me everything. -No. Sophie will do the activity with us. -Wait. I didn’t know. I don’t think I can be a mermaid. -Yes, don’t worry. There are other beginners. -The mermaid costume, here it is. It’s a Lycra that you put on, a bit like a very tight tube skirt. -Like leggings. At the end, you have a monofin. -And you have to have shells and sequins. -Exactly. -Julie, I’m happy to share this moment with you all, but I don’t think I have the physique to be a mermaid at all . -Everyone can do it. -There’s a lot of sisterhood and kindness in the activity. No matter your age, physique, or swimming level. The idea is to have fun. … -How do you feel in your costume? -It’s magic. Normally, you swim with your stomach facing the ground , but I lie on my back and look at myself. It’s magic. -I have a fin! I believe in it! -Emotions come into play. We combine sport and emotion. It makes for some really memorable experiences. -What made you want to be a mermaid and teach others to swim like mermaids? -I was teaching a little girl who was scared to swim. I couldn’t get over her fear. After seeing me at a mermaid show, she came back to class and all her fears were gone. It’s a teaching tool that’s simple and magical. Thanks to it, I take people to explore the sea. I want people to feel good in the water. -These mermaids are getting impatient. A mermaid doesn’t stay on the beach. -They want to swim , so we’re going to go. -I can’t do it. … -Ready to hoist? We’ve got wind. Come on, let’s go. We have three sails of about 100 m2 to move 9 tons. -The “Forban du Bono” is a replica of the old traditional fishing boats used to catch sardines. He unfurls his sails like in the old days, when fishermen depended on the wind to earn their living. -You can cut the engine. How beautiful it is! There, the sails breathe. -Benoît Piquemal has been skipper on the “Forban du Bono” for 17 years . He takes visitors on board to explore the gulf. Sailing between the islands requires real expertise. -The Gulf of Morbihan is a real playground when you’re sailing. Ease the foresail. You have to play with the pebbles, with the currents. You can’t do anything, be too ambitious. And then it works. There you go, great. That’s good. -It’s nice to learn how these old sailing ships worked. I’m with my daughter. She wanted to see what I’ve been telling her about for years. -The landscapes are very gentle. It’s a great adventure to be able to share this with the crew. -The “Forban du Bono” is approaching its destination for the day. Ilur Island, located in the heart of the Gulf. -Is it wet? -No shuttle will take you there because there is no landing stage. You have to get your feet wet. The group is greeted by the only inhabitant. -Are you okay, Benoît? -And you? -I’m okay, yes. -Xavier Le Gallo, the island’s caretaker, maintains and monitors this protected site. -Ilur Island is the 4th largest island in the Gulf. More than 3/4 of the Gulf’s islands are privately owned. You can disembark on the foreshore but not on the land. Here, the Conservatoire du Littoral has chosen to open the island to the public. That’s why you can set foot on the island. We arrive in the hamlet of Ilur. On the Napoleonic land registry, we realize that the houses were already there. -Until the 1950s, farmers still lived here. They practiced livestock breeding and cultivated vines. A small chapel bears witness to this past life. -This chapel from 1881 is a tribute to Our Lady of Lourdes. It is called Our Lady of Ilur. -Ilur has been a place of worship since the 11th century and still hosts religious festivals. It is time to leave the island before the rising tide makes the crossing impossible. For those who are not familiar with sailing, a simpler activity allows you to discover the treasures of the gulf at water level. -I’m Jules, your instructor. If you ever turn over, you get out of the kayak. You’ll float thanks to the life jacket. I’ll come and empty the boat and you get back in. How’s it going? Come on. -Located on the south shore of the gulf, Kerners Point is the ideal starting point for a kayak tour. -I’ve been kayaking for 27 years. In a kayak, there’s no noise. There’s just the sound of the paddle in the water. We arrive quite quietly everywhere and we have time. I often compare it to hiking. If you look ahead, we start to be attracted by the current of the Jument. The gulf is emptying, it’s the falling tide. It will create small accelerations. Let’s go. The current of the Jument is the second strongest in Europe. At the peak of the tide, it will reach 9 knots, so almost 15 km/h. We try to brake before hitting a megalith. There are about thirty of these standing stones on the islet and about forty in the water. They were erected 8,000 years ago. There was no sea. There are a few birds. Gulls, which we know. We also see a cormorant, all black. My colleagues and I explain to people to be careful, not to trample the vegetation, not to disembark anywhere. We can achieve more responsible tourism. -The Gulf of Morbihan is a little paradise to be preserved. Every time I sail in the gulf, I rediscover it. The lights and landscapes change all the time. -Whether kayaking or sailing, the Gulf of Morbihan is a great playground for sea activities. -I’m taking you to an emblematic site: the Ménec alignments in Carnac. On Le Ménec, there must be about 3,000 of them over 4 km. They are well aligned. It remains a great mystery. -Could they be aligned because they follow a magnetic field? Could it be a burial site? There are several hypotheses. -It has fueled fantasies for generations. There is also talk of a Roman army that was frozen in stone. This site was there long before the pyramids. It dates from around 3,000 to 6,000 BC. So it goes back a long way. -And of the fifty or so sites in France classified by UNESCO, this is the first listed site, here in Brittany. It’s truly deserved. There, it’s the site of the Kermario alignments. -There, you have menhirs. And there are dolmens. They are menhirs that support another stone horizontally. The ones we just passed, I had the chance to take pictures as a mermaid on them. It’s a site closed to the public. I was super proud. -The sea is never far away. Here, we’re leaving Carnac. We’re in La Trinité-sur-Mer. We’re back in your element. -Yes. I like swimming here. -It’s beautiful. -Yes, magnificent. At high tide, it makes an island. There, we’re going to see Damien. -OK. -He supported me when I started the school. He participated in my fundraising campaign. He’s a salt worker and he’s restored the surrounding marshes. -It looks like an artist’s palette. It’s pretty. -There are beautiful colors. -It’s due to the salinity of the water. -Sophie. -Damien. -Hi. -Hi. -It’s beautiful, with these birds. -There’s life. I also wanted to bring back an ecological activity. The cycle began in 1789 according to the archives. In 1960, salt in Morbihan collapsed. With the arrival of the Frigidaire, we stopped salting fish, the price of salt plummeted , and everything was abandoned. -Tell us how it works. -I have 28 crystallizers. Around them, we have a heating circuit. The water becomes loaded with salt as it progresses through the labyrinth. You need 1 to 2 cm of water per basin. My job is to estimate the day’s evaporation. First, you loosen the salt around it because it accumulates on the sides. You push it to the middle. Then, you bring it back towards you. -Okay. -I don’t have any mechanization. That’s why I do this. It’s man and nature. There’s nothing at all. There’s just the sun, the wind, and man. In the salt worker’s job, there’s a kind of purity. Are you okay? -You’ve worked well. And now, what are you doing? -It’s sorted by an ESAT in Crach. They remove the impurities, let it dry, and it’s sold like that. -What you have in common is that you’ve followed your dreams to the end. -That brought us quite close. Beyond that, our approach to the land too. We respect it deeply. -What also unites us is our passion for the sea. Julie, when she swims… I’ve never done it, but… -Keep going. When she swims… -In terms of sensation, it’s slippery. And for me, salt is slippery. -We thought there was a lack of boys, and here comes Damien! … This is just the beginning of my journey. It started in an original way. It was a first for me to be a mermaid. Do you want to continue? -Yes, continue on this path, find other methods to help people feel good in the water. -First of all, we have the Lyon region in common. Ah! And a shared passion for seafood. -Hello. -What do we have here? -So, we’re aquaculturists. We have shellfish and we work with local fishermen for crustaceans. -“We” is your family? -Yes. My grandfather made clams and my dad added oysters. And with my sisters, we continue. -Jaouen, is that the family name? -Absolutely. It means “happy” in Breton. -It’s wonderful because we are happy. -Enjoy your meal. -This platter is magnificent. I like this trip to Morbihan. -In Morbihan, Breton culture is also embodied in the dances, rites, and costumes that help bring generations together. Claire, 22, dances at the Celtic circle of Pluneret and perpetuates this heritage. -I looked at the albums. I found some with grannies, grannies in costume, dressed in black, with big dresses and headdresses. There, that’s my grandmother. She’s wearing the party costume. When she was little, you wore that costume. -I feel like I’m following in the family’s footsteps. -You were cute. -I haven’t stopped dancing since . I started when I was that tall. -Traditional costumes live on through the dancers of the Celtic circles. It’s for another occasion that Claire is going to wear one. -Here, I’m letting my hair down to my ears. -You’re starting from the top. -I don’t know how we did it back then. -We’re going to do a photoshoot with Gilles. I’ve always done Breton dance and no other dances. I also tell myself that if we’re not the ones wearing the costume, no one else will. -It’s disappearing. -It’s only part of my identity, but it’s important. It doesn’t stop me from going dancing in a nightclub. It’s not bad. -Yes, not bad. -Hello. -Hello, Claire. -Welcome. -Thank you. My ancestors worked here a long time ago as servants for the Countess of Ségur. -Great! A historical context that suits the project, the shoot we’re going to do. Make yourself comfortable. -I’m wearing a costume from the Pays de Retz loaned by my circle. It’s characteristic of the Pays de Retz. You can recognize it by the yoke of the dress at the back and especially by the headdress with its three corners, which dates from 1910. It was a ceremonial costume worn for pardons, weddings… It wasn’t an everyday costume. It’s made to fit a woman’s body throughout her life because it’s expensive. Ultimately, wearing it is like stepping back into history and bringing the past back to life. I’m ready. -Magnificent. -Thank you. -You’re magnificent. -Thank you. -We’re going to take a shot for the frame. Magnificent. The goal of the project is to introduce the general public to the variety and richness of Breton costumes and to show that they’re alive. Behind each of the characters wearing these clothes, there’s someone alive, someone passionate. Claire is attached to tradition but she’s also someone very modern. Magnificent. -Claire is going to Brech for the Kenleur Tour, which has been making Brittany dance for the past four years. Her studies have prevented her from dancing with her circle , but she never misses an opportunity to admire their steps and revise her classics. -Let’s go. Accordion. Arms up. … -It’s truly intergenerational. People need to unwind. The circle brings synergy around a dance. We come together without necessarily looking alike. -Come on! I’ve been dancing since I was 12, so over 50 years. We have a rich heritage that I was lucky enough to inherit. Today, my vocation is to pass it on. Breton dance is the strength of the circle, “nerzh ar gerlenn.” It’s a community holding hands and forming a united circle. -Are you ready? -Yes. -When I saw Louise at her first show, I wanted to dance. -A family affair. Traditional music. … Cheers. -THE RIGHT WAY, THE RIGHT PATH, THE RIGHT WAY, THE RIGHT PATH. He asked me, “Beautiful, do you fish?” Let’s dance to the sound of the violin. -I love these events. Being there, sharing with so many generations. I hope I’ll dance all my life. It’s beautiful to see so many generations gathered around a culture and keeping it alive. Traditional music. Applause and cheers. … Ferry siren. … Bagpipes. … Applause. -Hi, Olivier. -Hi. -Are you okay? Hello. -Shall we not kiss? -Yes, go ahead. -This is Jean-Louis Charrier. -The secretary of the Tartan de Groix. -What an atmosphere in Groix! -It’s always like this. -Groix is ​​a special island. You know the crossing from Lorient. -By heart. -You’re from Lorient. -Yes. This is my adopted home. I created the restaurant La Marine in Groix. -I’d be curious to taste your cuisine a little later. But first, Jean-Louis, tell the story of this tartan. Is this the fabric? -It’s the fabric used to make kilts. On Groix, it’s recent. This tartan uses colors from the island. -What’s this purple? -They call this island “Garnet Island.” So we find it again. The green is “argoat.” -What’s it? -The land. The blue is the sea. The yellow is broom. The whole image of the island is in this tartan. We find it beautiful. -The church here has a particularity, though. Explain it to me. -At the beginning of the 20th century, Groix was the leading Breton tuna port. So they replaced the weather vane with a tuna. -I can still hear the bagpipes. Are we going to see the last dance? -Yes. … -Oh dear! Thank you! Bravo! -We’re going to collect sea urchins. -It’s the morning’s harvest that determines your menu. -I use nature to create my cuisine. -Your pantry is there. -There, it’s magnificent. We discover the coves with the tides. -Over there, that’s the Pointe des Chats, is that it? -Yes. -Why this name? -The sailors approaching thought they saw cats. -The island of Groix is ​​also called “the island of witches.” Why? -During a war, only the women remained on the island. A priest disguised them by putting seaweed on their heads. The sailors approaching the coast took them for witches. -Seaweed, that’s it. -Yes. -It was for defense. They put it on like that to scare the invader. -There. -It must suit me well, it must be pretty. -Magnificent. -We continue our treasure hunt. We’re getting equipped. You’ve found a spot with sea urchins. -There. Look… A Breton treasure. -Isn’t it too small? -Yes. We have a size requirement of 9 cm. That’s the right size. -OK. -We’re about 10 cm in diameter. -We can keep it. -Yes. There’s its mouth. -You can see it’s moving. -Magnificent. They have different colors depending on the biotope where they live. You open it with the mouth. You go all the way around the spines. Inside, there are five tongues. It’s the sea urchin’s reproductive system. You detach these tongues with a small spoon. You take a sample. -And you taste it. -Exactly. Yec’hed mat. -Cheers. It’s a little caviar. -You can feel that very pronounced salty taste . And then, a slight sweet taste. -That’s true. How do you use it? -Either raw to enhance a scallop carpaccio, to bring the power of iodine, or blended in a sauce to bring iodine. -I see cultivated fields , bales of hay. Is that for livestock? -There are livestock farms. Sheep. -There, we have sheep. -Cows, poultry. We make beer, gin. -You respect the agricultural world. -I grew up on a farm and I have a deep love for good products. I respect what nature offers us. I want to show you a place that is close to my heart, the Pen-Men lighthouse. It is the most powerful lighthouse in Morbihan: 54 km range. 27 m high. And it is a landmark for sailors returning to the port of Lorient. -The landscape is magnificent. These geological formations are the identity of the island. -There is the presence of very specific minerals, in this case garnets. The island was born more than 360 million years ago. -It broke away from the continent. When you’re an islander, do you sometimes go around in circles? -No. We like the very peaceful side of an island. You feel alone in the world. -The island belongs to you. -Exactly. -Pleased to meet you. -Pleased to meet you. -Welcome. -We’re in Morbihan, between the Auray River and the gulf. The goal is to learn to sail. -I’m distributing life jackets to everyone. -Here. -Perfect. Let’s go. -Leave Baden, Jeanne and Loïc open the sail to everyone. They take on board a crew, some of whom have come for the first time to taste the sea spray, the wind, and adventure as a group. -This is Loïc. We’re underway. Tell us your top. *Radio signal. -The right end? -Yes. And you’re aiming for the island opposite. -Count 3 seconds, take off your towers, and let go. The crew is boiling hot. *Radio message. -Three, two, one, go! -Go on. Can you shock? Great! We can encourage her. -Bravo! -Come on, go! -Today, we only have women on board. Sometimes, it’s mixed. We give the keys to sailing, to take the helm of a boat. Whatever your strength, you can take the helm. Everything is possible, whether you’re a woman or a man. -Ready to tack? -Ready. -Let’s go. -Great. -On the water, we have a different view. The gulf is very beautiful at sea. We’re rediscovering the place. -I’m happy to be back on a boat. The environment is exceptional. On the trampoline, I’m not reassured, but here, it’s still possible. -The sun has even come back for us. -Here, the sea transmits its strength to the women who tell its story. In Kerroch, in this small port, the memory of Louis Le Hirez, known as “kanour noz,” still resonates. A life shaped by the sea, continued by his daughter Monique and his great-niece, a singer, who dedicated a show to him. – “Kanour noz,” Louis’s nickname, means “night singer.” The villagers called him that because he sang all night long. – At night, he fished for shrimp , and people passing by the coast could hear him singing. – I’m happy to come here, to retrace Louis’s steps , and to imagine the lives of fishermen at the time. I was happy to rediscover traditional songs that were sung by Louis. I find it moving. It inspired my creation. I’m going to sing a song that your father sang. … – It makes me cry with emotion because Dad sang this song. Every time I hear it, I cry. -A few kilometers away, the sea shaped the destiny of Marine Chesnais. A freediver and underwater dancer, she creates shows that border between art and science. Her dances raise public awareness of the fragility of life. -There, it’s the preparation we call “breathe up.” So, preparatory breathing, already to ventilate well, to prepare for this encounter with the sea. I was lucky enough to grow up here, in a small village, and to grow up in a family of sailors. Despite my background as a dancer, it’s always remained present. And when I discovered freediving, I decided to try to link my two passions, the sea and dance. The specificity we have in Brittany is all these forests of seaweed. I don’t have much to do, actually. I just have to observe their movements and I let myself be guided and caught up in their dance. I mix dance and freediving to try to find tools to regain my rightful place. of the living among the living. … -Cast off. -That’s good. -OK. We left Port Tudy to go fishing with Albert. -A sea trip like we do regularly. He’s a friend. We’re going to catch some great things. -The skipper on board is Albert. -He’s the boss, that’s worth respecting. -Are you okay, Albert? -Yes. -The skipper on board is you. -Yes. -What’s your boat called? -“Malea”. -It’s breaking over there. -Yes. -We’re coming. -You’ve got the technique. I’ll watch you do it. -We’re at the bottom there. There. We’re going to see the traps. -OK. -It’s working. -We’ve set… -A longline. If there’s a fish, great. If not, too bad. -That’s how it is. -One day, Olivier wanted to fish with you? -I said: “With pleasure.” And since then, our friendship has grown. -Being with Albert, does it change your daily routine as a chef? -It’s a break from life. It’s a wonderful bond, lovely moments. I love it. -So… -Magnificent shrimp. For one person, it’ll be fine. -You do my work. It sharpens his fingers. -He’s exercising. Get to work, Olivier. -Go on, come back up. -Not much. -I’ll clean up. -We’ll adapt. -On the menu, you can offer a little or nothing. -Yes. -Either for one person. -There. -Well! It’ll be for me. Laughter. -It’s not much. This year, the ocean is empty. When I was a professional, I could catch 80 to 100 kg of sea bass on my longlines. Now, we won’t have any. -Seaweed but no fish. We have shrimp. -You’ll have to make him some dumplings. Laughter. -Ah! An old one. A spider. -You can tell I’m not very skillful. Back from fishing. What do we have? -Three old ones, some pouts. -It’s for Albert. -For his personal consumption. A female spider. -It’s for Albert. -Yes. -And our shrimp. -The famous prawn bouquets. -You’re going to cook them. -Right now, I’m chopping the seaweed to prepare the broth for poaching the shrimp. Bringing products from the other side of the world doesn’t make sense. Everything I use in the kitchen is produced, picked, or harvested within 20 km. -20 km! You’re not going far. -I go inland to get my buckwheat flour. -In the kitchen, we need quality control. I have to taste the shrimp to be sure. -So, the shrimp from Groix? -I confirm. We have to peel our shrimp. -The shrimp we caught. We poached them in a kombu broth. Boiling is enough to poach them. -Did we use all the ingredients we caught, that we harvested? The shrimp, OK. -The royal kombu, OK. Our sea urchins. -For your sauce? Exactly. I boiled some cream, I salted and peppered it. I added “kari gosse,” Breton chili. To give it texture, I made a buckwheat risotto. -Where did your vocation come from? -The desire to eat well. That was the trigger. Eating healthy, eating homemade food, is very important. I attended a traditional hotel school in Langres. Afterwards, I toured France to see the great Michelin-starred establishments. -Which great establishments are you most proud of? -Marc Meneau in Burgundy, Pierre Gagnaire, Lasserre. Great houses. -Nice. Then, all that’s left is to dress our plate. -The presentation. -Like this? -Yes. -A small mat. -You pack it down. On this risotto mat, we’re going to arrange our shrimp. -I’m under pressure. -The finale will be up to par. -Do you have the stars here? -No. -It doesn’t matter. -They’re elsewhere. They’re with my family, in the eyes of the customers. It’s important. They’re in Albert’s eyes . -Stars are no longer an end in themselves. You had them in another life. You can be a talented chef and decide that the stars on a guidebook don’t matter. -I’ll put this in the center. -It’s pretty. -We’ll spread the sea urchin tongue cream all around. We’ll pour it in slowly. I’ll let you unmold it. -Imagine everything collapsing. I’m under pressure. I’ll go. -Here we go. Bravo. -A little thought for Albert. -He deserves it. -Thank you, Albert! Mmmm… It’s very subtle. -Magnificent. All in finesse. -Yes. The shrimp is perfect. -Do you smell that slightly sweet taste of the shrimp? -Yes. -It reminds me of sea urchin. -The sweetness of the sea urchin. -And we have the power of buckwheat. Here, we bite into Brittany. -We have a concentrate. I’ll pour myself another. -Belle-Ile-en-Mer is still asleep and Florence Ledoux is already busy in her grocery store. -The baker is coming. Hello. -Like every morning, summer and winter. -I have 4 children and a big baby. I have 4 children aged 24 to 10 and the big baby is the store. It was opened by my mother and my grandmother in 1968. When I was little, I was behind the cash register with Grandma, I would come after school. I have the store in my guts. Mr. Michaud, tell me everything. -5 croissants and 2 traditional. -5 croissants and 2 traditional ones. -This grocery store is the last food store in Sauzon. For the locals, it’s much more than a store. -Is that curly cheese? It looks like oak leaf. -When I was sick, Florence brought me my groceries. The store is the soul of the village. We lost the bakery. If she hadn’t taken the bread, we wouldn’t have any more bread. -It’s not just a store. There’s more. There’s the social side, the connection side. We know each other, we catch up. There’s something more. See you tomorrow. -See you tomorrow, my dear. Goodbye everyone. -Is it okay? -Yes. -Inhabited by a close-knit community, the largest island in Brittany retains its wild character. This is what Romain Vergé came to Belle-Ile in search of a new life. -My business is essentially based on a sense of observation and understanding the environment. -Romain is a marine biologist by training. He settled as a fisherman on Belle-Ile. He fishes exclusively with a line and only catches the amount of fish he needs to live. -The idea is to have a fishing style that is in line with the environment in which I live. I practice gentle fishing. I try to fish as little as possible, which is quite paradoxical for a fisherman. -Today, Romain fishes for sea bass. He sells his catch directly at the market or to restaurants on Belle-Ile. -I am attached to Belle-Ile because I spent my holidays there since I was a kid. It’s here that I discovered the marine environment, knowing that I was born in the center of France. It’s the only place where I feel at home. Short day. I caught about twenty kilos of sea bass. -Do you have your diary? -Florence rarely leaves the grocery store. Today, she makes an exception. -You’re going to see your friends again. -It’s back to school. -Hello. Hello, friends. -The small school in Sauzon welcomes 55 students in three multi-level classes. Here, the children have known each other since kindergarten. -The start of the school year marks a time of change. It’s a marker between the frenzy of summer and the calmer side where the island will belong a little more to us. Are you in good shape? -YES. -Very fit? -YES. -Averagely fit? This year, we’ll leave the classroom either to go to the playground, or we’ll leave the school, if you’re good, and we’ll go to the beach at Port Puce or to the woods nearby. -Are you okay? -Yes, and you? -This year, the start of the school year is a little more festive than usual. The parents rolled up their sleeves. For two weeks, they voluntarily repainted the facade of the school. -Good evening, everyone. This summer, you put your energy and time into the service of the school. You showed that solidarity can improve the environment in which our children grow up. A big thank you. -We have a very close-knit island side. We maintain a solidarity on Belle-Ile that is very important. -It will revitalize. There are still plenty of things to do. I think this is only the beginning. … -THE WIND IN THE SAILS, THE GREAT ADVENTURE. BRAVE THE STORM ALWAYS STRAIGHT AHEAD LIKE A HEAD-ON-HEAD WITH THE OCEAN, WITH THE OCEAN. … -Shall we race to see who arrives first at the end of the row? -We can race when people are sharp, but we mustn’t forget anything. -The most important thing is the grapes. -Now, we’re harvesting everything we can. Plus, we’re having a great vintage. No leaves in the baskets. -Oh dear! I didn’t check. -The press doesn’t like it. -Of course. You won’t tell him I had any. -OK, that’s fine. -Marie, what grape are we picking today? -Chardonnay to make a sparkling wine. -We have another grape called Chenin. It’s a grape from the Loire Valley. It produces a dry white that is very popular. -Guillaume has 15 years of experience in Champagne. We wanted to try a traditional method with Chardonnay here. -You were inspired by Champagne methods and the different vineyards in France to create your vineyard here. -We wanted to see what was best and what could be implemented here. -We took grape varieties that could pair well with local products. We work with producers. I’ll introduce you to someone who works with cheeses and local products. -Have there historically been vines here? -Before, there were 2,000 hectares of vines on the peninsula. For comparison, we’re down to 5 hectares in production here. With 2,000 hectares from Vannes to Arzon, we can call it a wine-growing region. -That’s what made you leave Champagne. -This project, yes. But it’s also the environment, the coastal side , and then Brittany, which we loved from the start. -We’re done. I’ll leave you. I’m going to top up the barrels. -Top up? What’s that? -I’m going to fill the barrels to prevent oxidation. It has to be done once a week. -Shall we go for a walk? -Okay. -We only walked 1 km from your house to this castle. -The Château de Suscinio is an emblem of the peninsula. In the 13th century, it was a priory surrounded by farmland. It represents a third of the peninsula. The Dukes of Brittany stayed here. – Anne of Brittany came here? – She came. She only stayed for three weeks, but that’s the story of the castle. Then she married “Henry” VIII , and their marriage reunited France and Brittany. The castle had its ups and downs. The French Revolution marked a turning point. The castle fell into disuse and became a quarry. -It was looted. The inhabitants came to collect stones to build their houses in the surrounding villages. We’re at the very top, we can see the sea all over there. It’s this view that I like. Shrill whistling. -Come on, let’s go. Shrill whistling. Come on, let’s go, girls. It’s nice. -The beautiful cows! -Hello, ladies. Are you lost? -Not at all. Hi, Gurvan. -Hi, Sophie. -The scenery with the castle just behind is postcard-perfect. -Yes. Go on. -Don’t be afraid. -There. -Is it milking time? -It’s time. -You work with family. -There. That’s my daughter. She partly looks after the herd. Tonight, she’s milking. -How long have you been working here? -It’s been 4 years. -Do you have a passion for the black and white magpie? -Yes. They’re small cows, they’re nice. -What’s so special about this breed? -The black and white magpie Breton is small. It’s already striking to the eye. It’s 1.15 or 20 meters at the withers. Its milk is rich in fat and is cheese-like. -You can see why it’s called “black udder.” -Why? -You can see its udders. Isn’t that it? -No, it’s the coat. Like the two-tone Indian horses. Here, the dominant color is black, so it’s black and white. It’s adapted to its territory. Milk, butter, and cream have their own scent. At first, we said to ourselves: the vacationers who come feed themselves with products from elsewhere while there are farmers here. We wanted to feed the people who came here. -And we can visit your farm. -That’s the goal. -I’ve never seen such a clean barn. -We go to a lot of trouble. It all starts there. From milking to the cheese dairy, everything has to be clean. -There’s a real curiosity from the public about milking. -People are interested, they ask questions. -For example? -We’re often asked if you need a calf to get milk. Some are surprised that they have horns. “Aren’t they bulls?” -Why do they have horns? -We don’t cut our cows’ horns. We interact with the children. It’s funny. -Tome de Rhuys is the one you produce. -With Guérande salt, basic. There’s the Roscoff onion tome. More classic, the cumin tome and the wild garlic tome. The young tome is fatty. It’s a slightly salty cheese. You already have the acidity in your mouth. Sometimes, the wine aromas come close to the cheese aromas. -For the pairing, we chose the “barrique.” It’s light and there’s a balance between the two. -The cheese doesn’t stop in your mouth like wine. There’s a continuity, you can still feel it. -Gurvan, you welcomed them very willingly as neighbors. -Yes. We were making cheese and there was no wine. And they offer wine. Well! Welcome. -It’s a good time to toast. We also toast to the Breton welcome. We know how to welcome people here. -Breton is festive. -YEC’HED MAT! -Cheers. -We have 3 rows of beets. This is the Egyptian plate, very beautiful, very dark. Great. That’s pretty. A sweet white which can be eaten raw. -In Ploemeur, Grégoire grows his vegetables not far from the beach. By growing by the sea, this market gardener is reviving an ancient practice that had gradually disappeared. -The seaside is favorable thanks to the sandy soil. And what’s fabulous is that the seaweed provides fertilizer. And we have this energy from the sea, the sea spray that adds a little fragrance. -Grégoire covers his soil with straw. -We protect the soil with the mulch that will decompose and nourish the plants. -He mulches his garden with grass from the neighboring meadow. A way of maintaining this once fallow heathland. -It brings back species that were disappearing, like the asphodel. There, the seeds have fallen and we’ll have a little more next year. In spring, it’s sublime. -Asphodel is also the name of the restaurant on which Grégoire’s garden depends . Lucas, the chef, comes here to pick up the ingredients for his recipes. -Here, it’s cabbage leaves and “mizuna,” a Japanese salad. The herbs don’t have the same taste. Everything really has flavor. The vegetables are affected by the sun and the wind. That’s what makes the terroir magnificent. A horse mackerel to share and a chicken drumstick for two. -Smoked “Gwel,” barbecued sardines, radishes, and sorrel. -Enjoy your meal. -Thank you. -Like Grégoire, who advocates for sustainable agriculture, Emmanuelle Dalapa got into oyster farming with convictions. -I try to reduce my impact on the environment. I do it with a wheelbarrow, using my own strength. I turn on the boat’s engine as little as possible. -She quit her job in communications to change her life. -I wanted to leave the city. I decided to become an oyster farmer without knowing anything about it , and I went for it. When my husband is here, people talk to him even though he doesn’t even have a boat license. It’s not reserved for men , but it still remains, in people’s minds, a masculine profession. -Emmanuelle raises oysters that are bred at sea rather than born in a hatchery. -We are on my half-hectare farm in Locmariaquer . -This is where the oysters reach maturity. On average, it takes them 3 to 4 years to reach the right size. -They’ve grown well. They’re already a nice size. In Brittany, they’re more salty. I like them a little sweeter. The stem is fleshy. It’s good. -To taste Emmanuelle’s oysters, you have to go to Locmariaquer and discover the terrace of her oyster farm around a corner . -That’s a gift. It’s clams with chorizo. -Cheers. -On vacation. -Looking forward to being together. -Love the end. -Hi, Fred. -Hello, Sophie. Welcome aboard. -Thank you. I just crossed this pretty bridge. -The Saint-Goustan bridge is the only bridge in the whole area on the Auray River. Give me your hand so I don’t fall. -Aboard the “Indomptable”. That’s a pretty name. -I would never have dared to give that name, but I kept it. -You don’t rename a boat. -No. Even if when I got it, it didn’t look very good. Now it floats. -Yes, I trust you. Tell me about the route we’re going to take on your magnificent boat. -We’re going to go all the way down the Auray River and let ourselves be swept away by the current of the Jument, do a drift , and come home. -You haven’t introduced me to the helmswoman. -That’s my daughter, Victoria. I have four children and Victoria was available to steer today. -You’re going to teach me things. -She’s a student. -You like to share your little joys with those lucky enough to come aboard. -On this boat, you can’t sail alone. You need people. And Victoria, little by little, without me forcing her… -Victoria, was it your father who wanted you to learn to sail on this kind of boat? -At first, I was a little… How can I put this? A little scared of the sea. It’s an element you can’t control. And little by little, I began to enjoy steer, spending time with Dad, Yves, Claude, and other people. -You said it, you can’t be alone on a boat like this. -We’re going to hoist the mainsail. It’s a yardarm. Your hand above it high. One, two, three. One, two, three. One, two, three. -Okay, stop. -You hold that with your muscles. One more little tug. One, two, three. Are you turning, Claude? -It’s turned. -We can let go. -We’re still putting the ropes away. You have 45 m of rope to coil. -Thanks for the gift. I’m getting hauled. -Yes. He took off like a jackal. -I understand. -Now, we take out the staysail before hoisting it just after the turn. -The staysail, that’s it. -There. We check that there’s no twist. There’s no twist. Put the snap hook in. One, two, three. One, two, three. OK. -He looks good when he’s under full sail. -We’re ready to go. -You’ve got sea water in your veins. -Partly. Dad was a merchant sailor. When he came back from sea, we set off with him. -Were you taken for a dreamer when you wanted to restore this boat? -That’s an understatement, but yes. I remember a journalist who told me I had a whim. I said, “Very well.” But that didn’t stop me from doing it. -When you go out to sea with this boat, you always have friends who want to come. -Yes. Going out on this boat is a privilege. -I’m measuring it… -Just a moment. We’re going to tack. You pass it there, you pick it up , and you position yourself here to have a clear view. There you go. Now, on the staysail, there’s a black dot with a piece of wool. It must be placed and horizontal. Pull your tiller and look at the wool. Pull again. You’re good. Aim for the point and then the red buoy. -I’m taking the water temperature . -Are you checking the temperature? -We’ll take it at a depth of 1 m. 19 degrees. -You’re not checking this for swimming . -No, not at all. It’s less hot than in the Mediterranean. -Who are you taking these readings for? -For the RIEM in Vannes. The eco-explorers of the sea. -You are environmental sentinels . -Yes. We help them take readings. -Temperature is important. What is that? -It allows you to see the transparency of the water. -You have reference points. One meter between two knots. -Yes. There, we’re at 4.50 m. -I can still see it. Ah! That’s it. -We’re at 5 meters there. -Yes. What can we learn from this observation? -The water can be cloudy in the gulf. They wonder why. It could be because of the rain. If the water is cloudy without precipitation, it’s worrying. -But today, it’s fine. -Yes. -We’re going to pass the red buoy. It’s pretty. You’re doing well, Sophie. -We can touch the buoy. -It’s exceptional! -Don’t overdo it. -Any closer, we’d leave a piece of hull there. You steered well. My wife runs a bar in Brech. -Very well. -We’re going to have a drink and debrief. -I can’t leave here without a “kenavo.” -Kenavo, an distro. … -We’ll end this lovely moment in a bar. It’s a meeting place, a bar, in Brittany. -They’re places where we can meet, chat, put the world to rights, talk about a good trip at sea or what we’re going to do tomorrow, come see a concert. -Hi, Magalie. -Hello. -I’d like to take this opportunity to ask you to tell me the story of this place. -I can tell it through what’s on the walls: the photos, the opening certificate. In this photo, that’s my great-grandmother. This is generation number 1. The little girl is my grandmother. I’m the 4th generation. -Did you have another life before working here? -For 25 years, I was a flight attendant. I did 25 years of long-haul flights but always lived here. -It’s a place conducive to creating connections. -A village bistro still has a place in life. They say that bistros are gradually disappearing. I am convinced that we have a place in the life of a village. And in a rural environment, it’s an ideal place to create connections. Traditional Breton music. -In any case, I’ve met some wonderful people. Thanks to you and the wind for pushing me here. -Naturally, the Auray River flows right below the house. We practically have a view of the sea. -I wanted to make my “kenavo”. -Ar wech all. -Kenavo. -Ar wech all. -Last souvenir photos on this wild coast, in the bay of Quiberon, with this arch which, according to legend, would be a secret passage for sailors wanting to shelter from storms. For us, no storm. We shared many good times. I wanted to experience an inspiring and authentic trip, and that’s what I did. I’m happy to have shared it with you. I kiss those who welcomed me in Morbihan. To relive this show, go to france.tv I kiss you hard. And have beautiful trips. france.tv access