Burgund: Frankreichs Genießer-Region von seiner besten Seite | ARD Reisen

Burgund, ideales Reiseziel für Naturliebhaber und Genießer. Es locken Weine von den bekanntesten Lagen der Welt und zum Beispiel die hoch geschätzten Burgundertrüffel. Hier verbinden sich Genuss, Geschichte und “Savoir Vivre” auf einzigartige Weise.

Lust auf mehr? Hier geht es zu weiteren „Wunderschön“-Filmen: https://1.ard.de/reisen-wunderschoen-uebersicht?yt=d

00:00 Intro
03:26 Chablis, eine der berühmtesten Weinbaustädte Frankreichs
14:55 Die Basilika Ste-Marie-Madeleine in Vézelay
17:37 Leckeres Trüffelgericht in Côte de Nuits
23:10 Besuch der berühmten Markthalle in Dijon und kulinarische Highlights
27:13 Spaziergang durch Dijon, Zentrum von Kunst und Kultur im Mittelalter
29:59 Fahrradtour ins Weingebiet
37:59 Naturpark Morvan, die grüne Lunge Burgunds
43:20: Bootsfahrt auf Kanälen und Flüssen
46:45 Ham. de Concoeur
54:28 Das wunderschöne Dorf Châteauneuf.
1:01:07 Malerisches Dorf Flavigny und die berühmten Anis-Bonbons
1:05:32 Hühnerfarm in Frontenard
1:13:00 Ein Geheimtipp in Cluny
1:28:00 Outro

Für Wunderschön macht Judith Rakers eine kulinarische Entdeckungstour inmitten malerischer Landschaft mit charmanten Dörfern und mittelalterlichen Städten. Auf Judith warten die weltbekannten Weinbaugebiete von Côte-d’Or, romantische Städte und Dörfer, ein riesiger Naturpark und zahlreiche kulinarische Highlights.

Das Burgund liegt etwas östlich der Mitte von Frankreich, zirka 200 Kilometer von der deutschen Grenze entfernt. Auch abseits der bekannten Städte wie Dijon oder Auxerre offenbart Burgund seinen entschleunigenden Charme: In kleinen Dörfern und auf dem Land dreht sich das Leben um gutes Essen, feinen Wein und echte Handwerkskunst. Hier trifft Judith auf Menschen, die den burgundischen Lebensstil mit Herz und Seele verkörpern.

Ihre Reise startet mit der Trüffelsuche in den herbstlichen Wäldern Burgunds. Mit dem aus Deutschland stammenden Thomas Kötting lernt Judith einen echten Burgund-Experten kennen, der sie mit wertvollen Geheimtipps abseits der Touristenmassen versorgt. Natur pur erwartet sie im Waldnationalpark Morvan: Beim Waldbaden im goldenen Herbstlicht offenbart der Nationalpark seine unberührte Schönheit. Ein abwechslungsreicher Trip in eine überraschend vielfältige Region.

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Wir empfehlen grundsätzlich allen Reisenden sich vor Antritt der Reise gründlich über die aktuelle Sicherheitslage zu informieren: https://www.auswaertiges-amt.de/de/reiseundsicherheit

“Burgund im Herbst – Auszeit für Genießer” ist ein Film von Andreas Schlosser
Dieser Film wurde 2024 im Auftrag des WDR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.

Burgundy, the ideal travel destination for nature lovers, connoisseurs, and sniffers. (Woman) Search, search, search. Search, search. We’re going on a culinary discovery tour amidst picturesque countryside with charming villages and medieval towns. Search. Good. Fertile soils with some of the world’s most famous vineyards, vibrant tradition. Here, enjoyment, history, and savoir-vivre combine in a unique way. I like this combination of chaos and a sense of achievement. Where is it? Where is it? Did he find something? – Perhaps. The people of Burgundy love and cherish their homeland and are happy to share it with visitors. We’re traveling in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region. Come with us, we’re on vacation in France. Subtitles: WDR mediagroup GmbH on behalf of WDR And here it is. Great. From how far can they smell the truffle? From 100 meters. 100 meters? Unbelievable. What’s the command for the dogs to keep searching? Quite simply, look for the truffle. Cherche la truffe. – Exactly. Looking for the truffles. Looking for the truffles. Looking for the truffles. Truffles are, alongside wine, the region’s most famous specialty. This black, noble mushroom grows in the fertile forest soils and vineyards. It is a treasured gem of French cuisine. The Burgundy truffle season runs from October to February. Ah, here? – He’s got it. Fester. Voilà. Now I’ve shot the truffle. Looking for the truffles. In France, the black diamonds belong to the owner of the property. The temperate climate in Burgundy offers ideal conditions for the precious mushroom. We bought this property and planted small, specially prepared trees. Then it takes five to ten years for the Burgundy truffle to grow. In the next few days, Armelle will show us what delicious things can be conjured up from truffles. We’ve already found truffles. But there are many more delicacies in Burgundy. I’ll continue my search. Burgundy lies just east of central France, about 200 km from the German border. The world-famous wine-growing regions of the Côte d’Or, romantic towns and villages, a vast nature park, and numerous culinary highlights await us. We’ll start in northwest Burgundy, in Chablis. Just under a two-hour drive from Dijon lies one of France’s most famous wine towns. Chablis is known worldwide for its eponymous white wine. Every autumn, a large festival takes place here, popular with wine connoisseurs and visitors from all over the world. We meet Nathalie Oudin. She took over her parents’ winery and is very knowledgeable about the region’s specialties. * Music * You have a lot of mushrooms here. Yes, we’ve had so much rain this year. Far too much for the grapes, but good for the mushrooms. What are they? Oysters? – Yes, oysters. Perfect with a glass of Chablis. They’re a regional specialty. I’ve never seen them before. Like a croissant, but with cheese. They’re also perfect with a glass of white wine, a Chablis. But you don’t start the day with a glass of Chablis and this, do you? – No. What time do we start drinking wine here? We start at 11 a.m. – At 11 a.m.? It’s a small aperitif. Especially on Sundays. But breakfast tends to be sweet for you, right? Yes, usually. But just before noon, we like to treat ourselves to a piece like this and a glass of wine. So you start with a sweet breakfast. – Yes. Then, a few hours later, you eat this and drink wine with it. Yes, an aperitif. Then you have lunch? – Exactly. And then you eat again later. – Yes, in the evening. You eat a lot in France. We love it. Good, right? Delicious. I think it’s great that in this market, where you’re constantly tempted to eat and drink, they also offer beds. So you can stroke your belly now and then. What’s that? Is that a drinking vessel? – Yes, for drinking. You have one too. It’s from a kind of brotherhood. You get it when you’ve done something for the region. If I drink a lot of Chablis, do I get that too? No, you have to do something for the region, not just drink it. I understand. The Chablis Wine Festival takes place every year on the 4th weekend in October. Bonjour. The parade of the traditional wine brotherhoods is a highlight of the festival. But it feels like it only lasts a minute. Oh, already over. That was a very short parade. It stands in stark contrast to the variety of food. Around 40 winemakers from Chablis and the Grands Auxerrois region present their wines and offer tastings. All we have to do is buy a tasting glass. Costs around 5 euros this year. But we have to pay for the wine too, right? No, just for the glass. You can try any wine? – Yes. It’s all-you-can-drink. That’s great. The white wine, by the way, is made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes. Every year the new Chablis vintage is presented at the wine festival. And new members are welcomed into the local wine brotherhood Les Piliers Chablisiens. And a heart like this: “La la, la la, la la la la la lère.” “ Every child here knows this tune. ” “La la, la la, la la la la la lère.” “ La la la, la la, la la la la la la la la la la.” “ What do the colors stand for?” The colors yellow and green represent the colors of the vineyard. These colors can also be found in Chablis wine. Golden yellow and green. Where are you from? – I’m from Chablis. Oh, perfect. And you’re the wine queen of Chablis? – Yes. Is it a dream for the girls here to become wine queen? Not a dream. But it is a great honor to belong to and represent the wine fraternity. I’ve been selected again and this is my fourth year doing it. The town of Chablis without the wine, is that possible? I hadn’t thought about that. Well, no, I don’t think so. Chablis is the pride of the town’s residents and businesspeople. The wine festival lasts a whole weekend. You quickly get to know everyone while toasting. Many other specialties are produced in Burgundy. About 20 minutes from Chablis is Claire Genet’s organic farm. Her particular passion: goats. Visitors can explore the farm and learn more about the production of goat cheese. * Music * They all have names. – It’s called Reflex. How does a young woman come up with the idea of ​​working with goats? I’ve always been fascinated by goats; it was my dream. Even as a small child, I wanted to have goats. So I studied agricultural science in Paris. Afterward, I worked in sales in western France for four years . In 2020, I founded the farm. I managed to turn my dream into reality. The dog is amazing. How long does it take to train a dog for this? Six months to a year. Claire offers walks with her goats. You’re in nature and can build a connection with the animals. Let’s go, let’s go. On y va? – On y va. The almost two-hour excursion is suitable for all ages and especially popular with families. But you still have to be careful. An adult animal weighs 80 to 100 kg. And now we’re off through the thorny undergrowth. I’ve never been overtaken by a goat. Tell me. Hard, Rocky, hard. Rocky, stop. Several goats have already peed on my leg. * Music * What did your friends and family say when you told them I wanted to work with goats? What a crazy project, they said. So much work and not easy. But for me it’s fascinating, fantastic. People have fun, and we’re getting really good feedback. I’m pleased. These walks with the goats that we do here— you also offer them to tourists, right? Yes, during the summer and the holidays we go for a walk every Wednesday and Friday. After the walk, we enjoy our goat cheese and drink wine. Can you imagine life without goats? No, it’s just nice to be with the goats, to spend time with them. I think so too. You grow fond of them very quickly. Why did you choose to live in Burgundy? I was born in this area. Then I lived somewhere else for a while, in Rennes for example. Then I was drawn back to this unique landscape. Here I can realize my dream of living with the goats and processing the milk into goat cheese. We continue our journey. Just south of Chablis we want to visit the pilgrimage site of Vézelay. It is known far beyond France and is one of the starting points of the famous Way of St. James. The Dutchman Arno Cuppen walked the pilgrimage route from Holland towards Spain over 20 years ago. Vézelay fascinated him and practically changed his life. The Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine is considered one of the most important pilgrimage sites of the Middle Ages. A spiritual center and magnet for pilgrims from all over Europe. (Cuppen) I saw the valley of Vézelay below me. The sun came out. * Music * Then I arrived here and saw the basilica. The monks and nuns were singing. It was magical. I decided to stay one longer. Then I had an experience. I don’t know how to explain it. For me, life is a great mystery, as if a veil were hanging over it. We cannot grasp it. But here I felt as if the veil had been lifted a little. Something fundamental had changed for me. Everything negative became positive. Yes, from darkness to light. The heavy entrance gates symbolize the threshold between the outside world and the sacred space of the basilica. (Cuppen) Many visitors, whether religious or not, report a special feeling when they come to Vézelay. Of a change, a transformation. Arno Cuppen has now settled near Vézelay. He runs a small pilgrims’ hostel with his wife. I wish that many people could escape their everyday lives. For a few weeks or months. To experience a completely different life, in all its simplicity. Simply hike, with a backpack, and take such experiences with you. It is something very special to attend one of the daily masses. * Music * It is incredible that people were able to build a basilica like this without the modern means of today. With this play of light, depending on the sun’s position. The church is like a sun temple, similar to Stonehenge. The Sainte-Marie-Madeleine Basilica in Vézelay is open to visitors year-round . We continue on to Dijon, the exciting capital of Burgundy. Before that, we visit the traditional winery of Armelle, our truffle lady, in the Côte de Nuits. * Music * Come in, you’d better put on an apron. I’ve prepared a selection of different truffles to show you the different types of truffles we have. Depending on what we’re planning, I’ll use the smaller ones, the medium ones, or the particularly pretty ones. Are these all truffles the dogs were looking for? It’s always the dogs who find the truffles. We have several plantations and several people who hunt for truffles in different places. Try it. You can already see how many grams a truffle weighs. Maybe this one too? 51 g, not bad. – Perfect. We put everything in there, it’s easy. I know by ear when the truffle has the right texture. Perfect. – A perfect ear for the truffle. And then the butter. I’ve brought it to room temperature. Now we put everything in the bowl. Exactly. And now? Mash it. Exactly, you can also mash it a bit with a spoon. But I can use my hands too. Good? Perfect, that seems just right. Now we should taste it. First, we spread it on a few pieces of baguette. Is it successful? – Mhm. Does it taste good? – Yes, it tastes very good. I can’t resist either. What else do you make with truffles besides truffle butter and Brie? There are, of course, many ways to prepare truffles. The important thing is to combine the fresh truffle with fat. Of course, you can also use eggs. An omelet or scrambled eggs, for example, taste fantastic with truffles if you let the eggs sit with the truffles for at least a day. For dessert, you can also make whipped cream with truffles. We can use truffles in many ways, from appetizers to desserts . How often do you eat truffles a day? – Every day. I eat a little truffle every day. Even when I serve baguettes with this butter for customers, for example. So, try it. Lots of calories, right? – No. The more butter you put on it, the better it tastes. But the more calories it contains. But above all, it should taste good. It’s always like that: more is always better. – Always. And finally, the only thing missing is a bottle of wine. You know, we’re here in Vosne-Romanée. And that’s it. We have bread, truffle butter, and truffle brie. Now we need a bottle of wine. Here’s a selection. I already have an idea. Since the truffle is very fruity, I think we should go for Vosne-Romanée 2022. It’s exceptionally fruity and goes well with truffle cheese. That sounds good. I think I’ll choose that one. It says so on your apron, too. Vosne-Romanée, that’s the name of our town. That’s also the wine we should drink. Dame Juliette. – She was my mother-in-law. How great. Let’s go over there. There’s food and drink everywhere. I already love Burgundy. When did you first open a bottle of wine? I think it was here in this cellar, when I was about 18. What’s more important to you, wine or truffles? For me, both things are equally important because they go together. But in a way, the truffles are more difficult than the wine. That’s true. And for the region, what’s more important? In Vosne-Romanée, the wine is the most important thing. The best wines in the world are produced in this region. We’re proud of that. Pour toi. – Merci. Do you like it? It’s very fine and delicate. What do you think? Mh. It’s soft, as it should be. The right consistency is very important. That’s something to remember. * Music * But now, off to Dijon, the capital of Burgundy. Many people think of the famous mustard when they hear the name. But the city has much more to offer. During the Middle Ages, it played a significant role in European history, becoming a center of art, culture, and power. Thomas Kötting from Cologne is a France expert. and designs individual tours to places like Burgundy. The father of the family shows us the market hall, a historical and architectural landmark of the city. Great, isn’t it? – Beautiful. I’m always amazed when I come. For me, it’s an idea of ​​what it might have looked like in Paris. It’s great with all the wood. A masterpiece of metal, wood, and glass, and a paradise for gourmets and lovers of French gastronomy. A huge selection of fresh, regional products. There’s fish, meat, fruit, vegetables, spices, sausages, and cheese. * Music * What Burgundy specialty can you recommend? Époisses really is the best cheese in the world. Napoleon once said it was his favorite cheese; it was the best cheese. And it comes from Burgundy? – From northern Burgundy. Further up near Chablis. Wow, it’s good. – It’s super. Thank you very much. – Thank you very much. A successful success. – Thank you very much. Have you tried anything yet? You don’t even know where to start. The great thing is, you can ask anywhere if you can try it. That’s my observation. They’re happy when you show interest in the products. We’ll see if we can bring some mustard with us. Dijon is the city of mustards. Our keyword: the world-famous Dijon mustard. Mustard with honey bread in it. It’s another discovery. The variety of mustard you see here, right? Here, you go to the supermarket, get a tube of mustard, and use it for your sausage. There’s a blue one and a striped one. Here, it’s a national treasure. We can’t imagine what that means. For example, during the coronavirus pandemic, it became scarce. As a result, they made sure that mustard was only allocated in stores. You were only allowed to buy one jar of mustard per person. We make fun of it… – We have toilet paper. We were stressed about having enough toilet paper. * Music * Now we come to the charcuterie, i.e. meat products. And these are the Burgundy oysters. We have snails in their shells with butter. In the oven for 10 minutes and it’s done. It’s not like a soft shell. Yes, I imagined it to be soft and slimy. About 80% of the French like them. Even the English, who didn’t like them, are now coming to try them. Want to try them? – No, merci. No, merci. It rarely happens when it comes to food. But snails aren’t necessary; they’re enough for me in the vegetable patch. The old town of Dijon has retained its charm over the centuries. With medieval half-timbered houses and narrow streets. The Place de la Libération is the central square in Dijon. Surrounded by the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, who once ruled the region. How old is the building? Do you know? It’s one of the few buildings dating back to the Middle Ages, the 12th century. A wealthy merchant family used to live here. Look. Back then, it all belonged to the Duke’s Palace. It represents the heyday of Burgundy. Today, Burgundy is small and sleepy. It has barely more inhabitants than my hometown of Cologne. It used to be one of the leading powers in Europe. It included almost all of the Benelux countries and northern France. It went through Lorraine to the border of Provence. This was a center of power. – Absolutely. From here you can climb the Philippe le Bon tower. With a fantastic panoramic view of the city. How many steps were there? 316. – 316. Oh yes, but it’s worth it. Even in today’s somewhat foggy autumn weather. This is the Place de la Libération. From there you go up to the Ducal Palace. We are practically part of the Ducal Palace. In my opinion, many people make the mistake of only being in Dijon. Then they drive to Cluny and past the famous vineyards. But you won’t see the real, authentic Burgundy, which is a bit far away. If you’d like, we can take a look. Absolutely. – Then I’ll take you with me. Insider tips. – Mhm. We’ll save Thomas’s insider tips and authentic Burgundy for later. We have a sporting appointment for the next morning. The weather is playing along; it’s forecast to be sunny. Perfect for a short bike ride through the vineyards. South of Dijon stretches the famous Côte d’Or wine-growing region, stretching over 60 km. Côte d’Or literally means Gold Coast. The unusual name is said to refer to the autumn gold on the slopes. Since 2015, this unique landscape has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We’re traveling with Mélissa, the daughter of Armelle, our truffle expert. She is one of three winegrower daughters in the family and loves cycling through the vineyards. It’s a fantastic opportunity for us too, to explore the region in an active and enjoyable way. * Music * That’s such a beautiful cycle path between the vineyards. Fantastic. I was really lucky to be born on the Champs-Élysées in Burgundy. Vosne-Romanée, Vougeot and then Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin are the most beautiful places for cycling. La Champs-Élysées. Exactly, that’s where we have our vineyards. It’s all been passed down from generation to generation. Foreign investors are rare here. We are proud to run the wineries ourselves. Why do such special grapes for wine grow here in Burgundy ? All over the world, people say it’s the winegrowers who make the difference. But here in Burgundy it really depends on the piece of land. The soil in the vineyard is of great importance. The winemaker certainly plays a role, but, as you can see on the label, the product’s origin is crucial. The composition of the clay-limestone soil in this area, the varying texture and depth of the soil from plot to plot, has a very significant influence on the flavor of the grapes. Due to inheritance law, the region has been divided into many small plots over the centuries. A total of 82 winemakers grow wine here. Mélissa’s family owns five rows on this slope, each approximately 400 meters long. In total, they cultivate 7 hectares of vineyards, spread across several slopes. In Burgundy, the wines bear the name of the plot or vineyard. This allows the origin of the grapes to be traced back to a small area. Ours, in large letters on the label, says Clos de Vougeot. This is the name of the plot, the soil, which is also called Climats de Bourgogne. Then comes the name of the winemaker, which is also important and makes the small difference . But this is written in smaller letters. * Music * Now you have to explain it to me. We have the Village here, 40 euros a bottle. Roughly. And here is Premier Cru, 60 euros a bottle. There’s a road in between. What’s the difference, the same grapes, the grapes here from the grapes there, that justifies the price difference? The Village side, as you can see, is rather flat. The Premier Cru, on the other hand, grows more on slopes. Then there’s the composition of the soil. There are small differences depending on which side of the road you go. Up on the slope, for example, there are a lot more small stones in the soil, but not at the bottom. All of this leads to the differences. These are the grapes. From here. There are more stones in the soil here, on this side. Exactly, there are more stones here. Is that a Premier Cru? Exactly, that’s Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru. Much sweeter, significantly sweeter. It depends on each grape and each location. But in general, we try to focus more on Premier Cru wines. Especially since we still have old vines. That really makes a difference. Allez. – On y va. Right next door is the small Romanée-Conti vineyard. One of the world’s most sought-after wines grows here. Cultivated by a neighboring traditional winemaker. The plowing is done by horses. While this is more time-consuming, it is gentler on the soil. Visitors come from all over the world to admire this spectacle. The wine is one of the most expensive in the world. Bottle prices start at a few thousand euros and can exceed an incredible 100,000 euros for older vintages. So, it’s more of an investment than a luxury item. The Rion family lives comparatively modestly, even though the vineyards are almost adjacent to each other. We are proud of our three daughters, who took over the winery with us. They could have emigrated. But they wanted to stay in Burgundy and ensure that our vines, which have been growing here for five generations, thrive. I’ve visited many countries and sent my children there so they could understand things better. But their heart remained here in Vosne-Romanée. We are fortunate to have a very old vineyard in Chambolle-Musigny. It’s been there since 1395. Sister Nelly takes care of the office. These are all Pinot Noir wines. The conditions are perfect for this variety. Monks started growing wine here back then. They saw that the area in the Clos de Vougeot was much more suitable and that this was the best area for Pinot Noir. The Rion family has been growing wine since 1896. They rely on traditional farming methods passed down through generations. They use only natural fertilizers such as grass cuttings or grape residues to maintain the soil structure. Bernard took over the winery in the 1970s. A life without wine is not a real life. Every hand is needed for the grape harvest in autumn. Even the youngest generation pitches in. We are in the 5th generation. I hope the 6th will be just as good and that the whole Rion family will be there. But it’s getting harder and harder. Who wants to drive the tractor? Do you want to? Look, that’s good. * Music * ? La la, la la. ? There it is again, the well-known song that is a must in Burgundy when it comes to wine. ? La la, la la, la la la la la la lère. La la la, la la la, la la la la la la la la la. ? About 2 hours from Dijon, in the center of the Burgundy region lies the Morvan Nature Park. With 290,000 hectares, it covers just under 6% of Burgundy’s area. Morvan, also known as the Green Lung of Burgundy, is an ideal place for hikers and anyone seeking peace and relaxation in an almost untouched landscape. If you want to experience this enchanted charm, it’s best to set off early in the morning. We, too, have arranged to go on a hike through this almost fairytale-like region. We want to immerse ourselves in this wonderful natural landscape and experience first-hand why so many people love to wander through this forest and seek relaxation here. * Music * Suzanne Thiery has been a forester in the Morvan for three years and is responsible for protecting this special landscape by profession. But it is also a matter close to her heart to preserve these forests with their numerous lakes and streams for future generations. What is special here is that we are in the foothills of the Massif Central, a small granite mountain range in the middle of Burgundy. We have small, diverse mixed forests here with species that are not found anywhere else in Burgundy. With a climate that is unique. In Burgundy it is colder and wetter because we are at a higher altitude and there is so much forest here. In the 1950s, large-scale monocultures of conifers were planted. These displaced many plant and animal species. What is the condition of the forest here? The Morvan is doing well at the moment. Fortunately, it’s been raining a lot. Since we lie on a granite massif, the water stays on the surface longer. It’s important now to convert as many areas as possible from conifers to mixed forests. The region has a long history of agriculture and forestry. Many plots have been inherited and divided over generations. About 80% of the forests in the Morvan are privately owned. How can a tourist tell which forests are open to the public and which are private and closed? If it’s forbidden, there’s always a sign saying “Private Property,” “No Entry,” etc. If there’s no sign, you can go in. Many private forests are open for hiking, biking, or kayaking. Would you be allowed to go mushroom picking in this forest in the fall? There’s only me in this forest. – Non. But seriously. This is forbidden in private forests. Because everything in the forest belongs to the forest owners. * Music * Yes, without getting your feet wet. What is that? We can see that the forests of the Morvan were used to produce firewood for Paris from the 16th to the 19th century. For Paris? – Yes, for Paris. In fact, people cleared large areas of forest back then. All this wood, which was transported via streams, caused a change in the ecosystem. That was the case back then. You were doing something completely different professionally before. Why did you suddenly decide that you wanted to go into forestry? Today I can say it was the wrong path. I worked in event technology, spent a lot of time in the city, and it was cramped. Now I can take care of nature. Wow, the view. Fantastic. I’m always happier after a visit to the forest than before. * Music * From the forest we head to the water. Burgundy is known for its extensive network of canals and rivers. Annalisa Cavagna is a boat captain. The Italian has ended up in Burgundy, where she rents out houseboats to tourists. In autumn, the season slowly comes to an end. There’s hardly anything going on. You have nature almost to yourself. On the right, you can see the first lock of the Burgundy Canal. On this side, you can head towards Dijon. The tour starts in Saint-Jean-de-Losne on the Saône River. There’s a good selection of different boat sizes for 2 to 12 people. At least two adults are required on board. You don’t need a license. You’ll be taught everything you need to know. You’ll be given an introduction on the first day. We’ll teach you all the little tricks you need. After that, it’s just an adventure. Who hasn’t wanted to be the captain of their own boat? It’s also super relaxing. Bicycles can be taken on board. Here on the right, we have the EuroVelo 6, one of the longest cycle routes in Europe. It starts in Romania on the Black Sea and ends in Brittany. We can follow a section of the Saône or the Rhône-Rhine Canal and thus cross Europe by bike. Bonjour. This one leads to Alsace. It’s the Rhône-Rhine Canal. This way, you can even reach the Rhine in Germany. The locks here are all automated. There’s also a guard at this one who will explain how to operate all the other locks. The boat tours lead past beautiful castles and palaces, through picturesque towns , and along the diverse landscape of Burgundy. * Music * On land, you always feel a bit more clumsy, because you’re more concerned with everyday things, tasks, and obligations. On the water, however, I’m just amazed and love the beauty of this region. Burgundy is wonderful in any weather. * Music * We’re about to try famous candies in Flavigny and visit the sleepy village of Châteauneuf. First, however, we’re off to Ham. de Concoeur, a town about half an hour south of Dijon. Cassis, the black currant, is harvested here in the spring. This small, dark purple berry is cultivated in France, particularly in Burgundy, and is often referred to as black gold. Sylvain Olivier specializes in processing the berry. We’ve heard that he treats his fruits to the sounds of Mozart. Sounds crazy. Bonjour. Hello, how are you? Ca va bien, merci. – Perfect. You’re the man who treats his plants to music. Why? The fact is that music is energy in life, and we need that. The black currant is the queen of fruits here. That’s why we treat it to music. Indeed, music allows the berries to develop. With music, we achieve very delicate aromas. All our infusions are accompanied by music because it achieves a harmonious balance that we wouldn’t otherwise be able to achieve. Will you show me? – Yes, I’ll take you. This is the place. This is where the fruit meets the music. Sylvain uses only works by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Jams, liqueurs, fruit compotes, ketchup, and juices are made from black currants . Today we’re making black currant jam. How do we start? First, we place the fruit in a large bowl to thaw. To keep our berries as fresh as when they were picked, we froze them immediately. To be able to process them, we thaw them in small batches. This way, we end up with very fresh produce to sell. Would you like to help me? We put the bowl on the scales. You take the currants. How much should go in? – 10 kg. So we need 6 kg of fruit. When did you harvest them? On July 13th, we harvested the fruit for the jam, in the early afternoon. Does it matter when you harvest them? Yes, I usually harvest my fruit after 1 p.m. That way, the sun is already past its zenith, and the berries have had all morning to warm up. But the sun hasn’t yet overheated them. In a very dry year, however, we harvest the fruit very early in the morning to benefit from the humidity and the morning dew. Perfect. Excellent. That was the first step. Great. I think the pots could be even bigger, because then I could lie down in them. No, no, this is the ideal size for working with. In fact, the size of the container is adapted to the power of the fire. After heating, it is blended to achieve a smooth, liquid consistency. Then comes the sugar. Is that cane sugar? – Yes, not refined sugar. 5 kg. Everything? – Everything. How it smells. It smells so good. You stir for the sake of stirring, you do figure eights. * Music * What does the blackcurrant mean to Burgundy? Blackcurrants in Burgundy are part of our roots. The Cistercian monks who settled throughout Burgundy brought the blackcurrant with them as a medicinal plant in the 13th century, during the Middle Ages . It was only about two centuries ago that we began using blackcurrant fruit to make jams and liqueurs, and to eat them. For wine, the soil is crucial to the quality of the fruit. Is that the case with blackcurrants too? – Yes. It’s exactly the same. Do you eat blackcurrants every day? – Blackcurrants flow through these veins. * Music * Now, the pedal, you press it once and then lift your foot again. Now I’m curious. Wow. This is the best jam, preserves I’ve ever eaten. Because you made it. No, no, no. – Yes, yes, that’s why. Blackcurrants play an important role in French cuisine. They are apparently especially delicious when the berries are sprinkled with Mozart music. * Music * In the Côte d’Or department lies Beaune, one of the most famous towns in Burgundy. Small but beautiful, the town attracts many tourists every year who want to experience the historical flair or simply stroll around. * Music * It can get particularly crowded in the summer. Now, in autumn as well as in spring, is the best time to visit this pretty town with its medieval charm and many shops. Every Saturday morning from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. there is a market on the Place de la Halle, right in the center of Beaune. It’s a wonderful place to stroll, browse, and shop. There is a wide selection of regional specialties, flowers, and much more. Not far from Beaune , the village of Châteauneuf stands high above a stunning landscape . It is an eye-catcher even from afar. Its center is a magnificent medieval fortress. It is one of the last remaining examples of Burgundian military architecture from the 14th century. For centuries, the village was an economic hub where grain, meat, and wine from Beaune were traded. The feudal residences of noble and wealthy Burgundian merchants, built between the 14th and 16th centuries, tell of this era. Bonjour. – Enchanté. Je suis Judith. – Jean-Paul. Le marie. – The mayor. Le maire, that’s right. Marie is a wife, or something. Lost in translation. * Music * We are a small village with 84 inhabitants and 150,000 tourists a year. That’s quite a big deal compared to the small number of inhabitants . We also have the special feature that we are visited by many people from all over Europe. There are also many people from abroad living here: Germans, Belgians, Luxembourgers, Italians. We have many different nationalities. As mayor, were you born and raised here? Yes, I grew up here. My grandfather was mayor here for 30 years. My predecessor was also mayor for 30 years. I really wanted to take over the management of the town hall because my village is close to my heart. Mayor Jean-Paul is proud of his village and of the many creative people who have settled here over the years. * Music * Bonjour. – Good day. His name is Filou. – Filou. Hello Filou. He is my model because I am an animal sculptor and work with bronze. * Music * He looks really delicate. These are truly extraordinary pieces here. What role does art play in Châteauneuf? Châteauneuf is a medieval village that, traditionally and for historical reasons, already possessed certain art forms. And these forms are not being lost. Over time, more and more creative people have settled here. This means that art will continue to be a part of our town’s history. That cannot be taken away from us. Why did you choose to live here in Châteauneuf? At first, it was a coincidence. I had a business in Dijon and came here for medieval markets. I found the place very beautiful; it has a certain charm. And because I got along very well with a few people, I stayed. Sometimes it happens that you see something, feel good, and stay. It’s impossible to get lost here. There’s a short main street and a few side streets. Merci. Bonjour. – Bonjour. – Bonjour. This is art with wood. * Music * Are these all sculptures from the neighboring forest? Yes, it’s mostly oak. And that’s sequoia, the largest tree. I like it here. The forest right next to the village; it’s quiet here. There are lots of tourists. For me, that’s very good. The castle of Châteauneuf was built in the 12th century to watch over the surrounding plain and the road to Dijon. The medieval fortress is still well preserved. In the chapel, colorful wall paintings from the 15th century can be seen. The tour of the living quarters gives an impression of the life of the lords of the castle in the Middle Ages. * Music * How much does a house like this cost? Around 350,000 euros. – 350,000. Everything here is a listed building. Châteauneuf is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. Sophie Herbert-Fort has also settled here. The French-American jewelry designer offers handmade pieces. I’m half and half. My mother was born here, in the north of Burgundy, and my father is American. Is this place like a big family, with about 80 inhabitants? Yes, you could say it’s a big family. Everything moves a little slower here, not like in a city. People don’t rush around; they take their time. Many people from Châteauneuf often come by to talk. Sometimes they just stop for a cup of coffee. It’s really special here. Everyone seems so relaxed. And you can eat a lot and well here in Burgundy. Food here isn’t just food. You take your time to choose your ingredients, where they come from, whether it’s regional produce, the fruit, the cheese, or the wine. And the meat. – Even the meat. Cooking here is a kind of art; you can express yourself creatively. Cooking is also an art. It’s impressive that villages like Châteauneuf have been preserved in their original form, without modern buildings around them. This, too, is Burgundy. On to the next picturesque village. Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is world-famous for its traditional aniseed sweets. This sweet has a long history and is closely linked to the village and its culture. The former Abbey of Saint-Pierre is the focal point. Catherine Troubat inherited the small candy empire from her father. These are very old pillars dating back to the Carolingian period, up to the time of Charlemagne. We are here in the Flavigny candy factory. Back then, the monks built this abbey, the Flavigny Abbey. They abandoned this place at the time of the French Revolution . After that, the local residents took over the abbey and continued producing the drops and candies. Today, the production and sales rooms are located right next to the historic abbey . Troubat converted the shop and the adjoining rooms into a small museum. * Music * Production still takes place upstairs. The candies are made from an aniseed coated in several layers of sugar syrup. It takes 15 days to slowly build up these layers to form the typical candy. Visitors can tour the production facility by appointment. We are here in my little secret workshop. If we want to create a flavor that we like and that typically tastes like the ones we like here in Flavigny, I ask the producers of natural flavors to send me small samples, such as blackcurrant or lemon. I then blend them to find the flavor I like. It can’t be too strict. Then I know right away whether it’s a good fit or not. The candies are sold in oval, metal tins. The nostalgic and artistic illustrations tell romantic stories. Monsieur Galimard was my grandfather’s predecessor. He sold the candies in small kiosks at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. That was during the World Exhibition. It made aniseed candy famous all over the world. And Gustave Eiffel came from Dijon. He lived only an hour away from Flavigny. He was the one who suggested to the anise manufacturer at the time, ” Stand next to me so everyone can see your candies.” That was a very good idea. Today, the candies are sold all over Europe, North America, and Asia. Here you can see the first vending machines at train and metro stations with our candies. Here’s a picture of a train station, but that was a long time ago. That’s how all the French and everyone who visited France got to know our candies. It looks like a cigar machine, but our candies were in the cigars. * Music * With my little friends, life is a love story. * Music * We drive south. Thomas has some insider tips for us near Cluny. Before that, we visit a chicken farm in Frontenard, about an hour south of Dijon. Chickens, I’m not going to miss that. Bresse chickens, also known as Poulet de Bresse. They enjoy the reputation of being the best poultry in the world, which certainly has something to do with how they are kept and bred. Delphine and Joseph Cuvillier have been raising the birds since 2009. It’s nice to also get to know French chickens on my trip. Yes, Bresse chickens are very typical of our region. A symbolic poultry. They’re all white, the chickens. Is that typical of Bresse chickens? Yes, but they wear our national colors. If you look closely, their legs are blue, their bodies are white, and the tops are red. Blue, white, red. – They really do have blue legs. That’s very characteristic. That’s how we recognize them, with their blue legs. That’s unique to this breed. * Music * Our family. You’re a sweet rooster. He’s impressed. What’s special about this breed? The origins of this breed of chicken go way back, to the 13th century. That was a long time ago. Even back then, the lords, the kings, came because they wanted these chickens. And to this day, this breed hasn’t changed. Breeding is subject to strict criteria. The animals are kept on large pastures and fed only natural ingredients. The chicks stay in the coop for about 5 weeks. They’re nice and warm, 3 days old. 3 days? Oh, cute. All the chicks are yellow, but there are a few that are brown. Those are partridges. They tend to warn their colleagues. Just like the others, they then seek shelter under a tree to prevent the birds of prey from eating them. And that works? It works relatively well. Sometimes it doesn’t. Wow. Oh, cute. Can you taste the meat that it’s a special variety? Of course, you definitely can. Even with your eyes closed, you can detect that particular, delicious flavor. It tastes completely different from the packaged, mass-produced stuff. And there’s a reason for that, of course. A lot of work goes into our breeding methods, special feed. Outside, we always have fresh grass and earthworms. And all of this on large areas. * Music * We continue south on our culinary journey through Burgundy. In Charolles, a small town in the Saône-et-Loire department, we’re meeting with Michelin-starred chef Frédéric Doucet. For him, the Bresse chickens from the Cuvillier family farm are a product of the highest quality. They say you can taste the humane husbandry. Doucet wants to show us how he prepares a Bresse chicken in his star-rated kitchen. Burgundy is one of the regions with the highest concentration of Michelin stars in France. Frédéric Doucet received his star in 2012 and has kept it ever since. Here, for you. – Merci beaucoup. On y va. – On y va. The challenge: to make the chicken tender, juicy, and crispy at the same time. Is everything nicely fried on the fatty skin? The idea is, we want something like a roast chicken with very crispy skin, the kind you eat at home with the family on Sundays. To ensure that the salt attracts the water, we season the skin with a little sugar at the last moment. Personally, I think that using the entire animal has a lot to do with respect for the animal . Exactly. Here I have melted poultry fat. This way, we don’t throw anything away or waste anything. We’ll sear it nicely. And then, I’ve preheated an oven to 240°C (475°F), we’ll cook the poultry for 7 minutes. 7 minutes? Mhm. This way, the poultry cooks quickly. The meat inside, however, remains very tender. This is how you prepare a one-star-quality chicken. Definitely a great inspiration for meat eaters. Allez hop. – Allez hop. Let’s go. Bresse chickens play a significant role in French cuisine. Where does your passion for cooking come from? I was born here. My parents came from the restaurant industry. My mother wasn’t a cook, she was a server. It’s my home. Since I was little, I knew I would be a chef. Allez, let’s go. Oh yes. Oh, that looks good. When you got the star, how did that feel? I went to my mother and said, wow, I did it. Just wow, I did it? – I did it. We did it, for the team, for the family, and for the region. That makes you proud and satisfied. And all of this with regional products, paired with our expertise. It’s a great joy. Let’s keep it up. The competition among chefs and restaurants is fierce, which makes the awarding of a star particularly prestigious. Although the focus is on taste, the quality of the ingredients, and the finesse of the cook , the appearance is also a decisive factor in the overall experience. With tweezers. C’est chirurgical. Bon appétit. I’m curious to see how it tastes. You have to eat with us. I don’t dare destroy the work of art. We make it like we do at home. Perfectly natural. The meat is cooked to perfection. Not at all tough, completely firm, yet tender. It can… do both. And incredibly well seasoned. Great. * Music * After this culinary highlight, we meet Thomas Kötting again. He has promised us a few more insider tips. We are near Cluny. Welcome to the real Burgundy. This is one of the insider tips I wanted to show you. Wow. Great. Fantastic. * Music * Unlike those big castles that are open to the public, which are either museums or luxury hotels with golf courses and spas, this one has been owned by the family for 250 years. It looks like a sleepy Sleeping Beauty castle. They offer guest rooms. You’re part of the family when you go in. You think it’s a lost place. Then you realize there’s life here after all. Can we go in? – If you want. The bell is on the rope, please. – Really? – Mhm. Parties. – I can throw parties. Good day and welcome. – Bonjour. Salut Thomas. * Music * It’s getting warmer in here, here’s the fireplace. I don’t know where to look first. Oh. It’s lovely, cozy. It’s good on a cold, foggy autumn morning like this, lovely. Do you live in this château all year round? Yes, we are here all year round and work in the vineyards in the winter. In the summer it’s all about welcoming guests and showing them the rooms. Probably not all of the rooms in this château are occupied, are they? Have you chosen a few? Yes, there is one floor with guest rooms. We have our apartment on the side in the tower. Then there are a few rooms where we receive our friends. The remaining rooms are still as they were in the 19th century, without electricity. Did you or your husband grow up here? My husband grew up here. When we got married, I moved from Paris to live here. It wasn’t always easy at the beginning. What did you think when you found out that the man you met lived in a castle? I don’t want to say I was scared, but I was still worried. Because my apartment in Paris was only 40 square meters. When I was young, I lived on a farm. And now in a castle, where I don’t go into every room every day. There are 50 rooms here. But I’ve reduced myself to 15, and that’s quite a lot. Do you sometimes miss life in the city? No, not at all. * Music * These are probably little witnesses to our time here too. Absolutely, they are witnesses to our time. 1897. – 1897, yes. Look at what the newspapers used to look like. And women’s fashion. France has always had a heart for the fine arts. Music, fashion. Little treasures everywhere. Yes, I like looking for treasures. * Music * (Kötting) What I find great is that it all comes from the family. It’s not set up like a museum. It’s still historic if they’ve lived here for a few hundred years. How lovely, look. That’s lovely, a princess’s room. May I? – Yes. Oh, great. Fantastic. This is the Pope’s room. Because the Pope once stayed here. – No, which one? There’s a picture on the wall over there. The Pope stayed here in ’45. That’s great, the Pope. Yes, it was Monseigneur Roncalli. When he stayed here, he wasn’t yet Pope, but a little later he was elected John XXIII. I think he was here for four days. Did he sleep in this bed? Yes, but I changed the sheets. And the sheets were changed too. – Exactly. Otherwise, what I find great, unlike in such large hotels, is that you don’t see a flat screen on the wall here. Instead, there’s something else. This is our television. Up on the old dovecote. Old dovecote? – Yes, indeed. It’s so romantic here. Yes, it is very romantic. What kind of people vacation here? They visit the churches, castles, and abbeys in the area. But mostly they just relax on the chairs down there with a good glass of wine from the castle. * Music * Burgundy is simply a region to be enjoyed. Another special breed of animal has its origins nearby: the Charolais cattle. This famous breed comes from the Charolles region of Burgundy. The cattle are traditionally kept on pastures. A natural, stress-free approach. We’ve arranged to meet Michelin-starred chef Frédéric Doucet again. That’s a very sustainable seat cushion, I like it. I immediately feel at home. We are allowed to go out to the pasture with Frédéric and farmer Didier. * Music * We live here in a region that specializes in meat production , with lots of people who love good meat and like to come and try it. You can then experience the animals in the meadows and see how they graze and how cool and calm they are. We understand that many guests today eat more consciously and we also adapt to different religions or if someone has allergies. Of course, we also respect if someone wants to eat vegan. (Didier) The animals are out on pasture permanently for 8 months of the year. This pasture is exceptional due to the density of the plants and the variety of grasses. We adapt the herd to the seasons. This means that in spring, when there is a lot more grass, we can graze a lot more animals per hectare. In summer or during dry periods, we reduce the number of animals. The quality of the pasture influences the quality of the meat. Here in Burgundy we have nutrient-rich soil and lush green vegetation. Charolais cattle are easily recognizable by their pure white coats and powerful build. They are tall and muscular. They are generally considered calm animals. However, caution is still advised. Come on, girls, come on. It’s a bit like a safari in Namibia or South Africa. You’re not allowed to leave the car. I’m not afraid of cows. The Charolais breed is more of a rustic breed. The cows have a pretty strong character. That means you shouldn’t bother them too much when they give birth . Then they can sometimes become aggressive. What is special about this breed of cattle? Can you describe it to us? The special feature of a good Charolais cattle is that their back must be very straight and muscular. What can increase their value even further is their buttocks. The buttocks should be full and very broad. Because that’s where the best cuts of meat are found. Charolais cattle represent the region. Although it’s a breed that can adapt anywhere, we prefer seeing it here in Charolles. * Music * Now we want to get to know the most famous dish in Burgundy, Boeuf Bourguignon. Thomas Kötting knows a good address. I have one more tip for you. We’re now at an address that’s very special to me. You may have seen that there are professional wine tastings at the big châteaux and famous wineries. Busloads of people drive up there. We wanted to have one that would make us feel at home. Be surprised. Another door opens for us. Hello. – Hello. Judith, I’m very happy. It’s so beautiful here, the fireplace is on. (Man) It was an old barn, because this was a stagecoach stop. And here, in the boutique room, the Cuverie, that was where the horses were changed. How lovely. And here is where the barn was, with hay. The big secret is always that your wife makes such a fantastic Boeuf Bourguignon. And we can try that today. – Even though we’re not a restaurant. Everyone comes for a chance to eat my wife’s beef bourguignon. It’s an old family recipe. First, onions, carrots, garlic , and herbs like thyme and bay leaves are sautéed. Then a little vinaigrette is added. Stir? – Voilà. A little blackcurrant pepper. It comes from Burgundy. If you want more, please. – So. *Music* Oh, that smells so good. And now the wine from Burgundy. The wine is the most important thing, isn’t it? – Yes. It’s very good when it’s the same wine in the marinade and the same wine we drink. It’s better. In Germany, people always cook with cheap wine and drink the good one. Is that wrong? – That’s wrong. That’s the first mistake already. This is the marinade; we need to reduce it. Then we pour it over the prepared beef. The whole thing should sit and rest in the fridge for at least two days. Two days? In Burgundy, the meat, preferably Charolais beef, is rolled in flour and seared. Comme ca? – Yes, it’s perfect. Bacon? In there too? – Voilà. Now we let it simmer for at least two hours in a casserole dish, which is very good for this because it cooks very gently and slowly. We call it mijoter, very slow cooking. Marie-Odille prepared the Boeuf Bourguignon for this evening two days ago. Here we are in Burgundy and in France. That means we have to have one man, one woman, one man, one woman. It’s always like that. Here you go. We ‘re happy to do that, of course. Oh, that smells good. (Kötting) That is the most French of all dishes. If you ask the French, there are always surveys about the most French dish, and beef bourguignon is always by far the number one choice. You have been to our place so often, so you know everything. If you say goulash, is that an insult? Goulash is Hungarian. Right? It isn’t Burgundy. I would say that you enrich the lives of tourists. Do tourists enrich your lives too? I think so. Yes, very much. I think so. That is… But… We exchange so much. The questions are different, but there is always something interesting. In any case, it can be quite delicate. Sensational. C’est magnifique. – Merci beaucoup. I would like to thank you very much for this wonderful experience with you. Allez. – Allez. (alle) Santé. * Music * Good food and drink in France. There could not be a better end to our tour. Burgundy in autumn, perfect for connoisseurs. Copyright WDR 2025