Bikepacking The Silk Road | Crossing The Roof Of The World

Are you ready for the ride of a lifetime? We’re tackling the legendary Pamir Highway, the second-highest international road on Earth. This is not your average bike trip – it’s brutal, breathtaking,
an utterly unforgettable adventure through the heart of Central Asia.
Conor and Max are pushing the limits on what’s known as the “Heroin Highway” – a route infamous for its smuggling past and unforgiving conditions. We’re talking military encounters, roads swallowed by rivers, crippling altitude sickness, and headwinds so fierce they can bring even the strongest riders to a standstill.
But this is also a journey about wonder: landscapes carved as though from another planet, the warmth and generosity of the Kyrgyz and Tajik people, and the quiet triumph of overcoming struggle in one of the harshest environments on Earth. It’s a test of body and spirit – a place where every kilometre must be earned and where the rewards are immeasurable.

The Silk Road changes everyone who rides it. Ride with Conor and Max, feel the struggle, and carry the story wherever your road leads.

In association with @RideShimano and @wahoofitness

00:00 The Heroin Highway
01:38 The Ultimate Challenge
03:05 Arrival at the Edge of the World (Sary-Tash, Kyrgyzstan)
03:53 Pamir Highway: Route & Risks
05:46 Meet Max: My French Riding Partner
07:32 Canyon Grizl + Shimano GRX
09:04 Navigation on the Edge: Wahoo Elemnt ACE
10:03 Day 1: Sary-Tash ➝ Qarokul
12:39 Echoes of the Silk Road
14:19 Explosions 500m away & Crossing into Tajikistan
17:28 Tajikistan Beckons: Enjoying the ride
21:40 The Road Is Gone in Sajikistan
25:35 Altitude Sickness Strikes
27:50 Day 2: Qarokul ➝ Murghob
34:06 Respite at a ‘Fast Food’ Yurt
36:42 Reaching the Summit, Humbled by Nature
39:29 Brutal Headwinds into Murghob
41:31 Planning for the Harshest Stage
43:25 Day 3: Murghob ➝ Hot Springs
46:21 Headwinds & Mental Battles
50:50 Why GRX Was My Choice for Ultracycling
52:23 Breaking Point: Forced to Reroute
59:26 Day 4: Riding Towards Afghanistan
1:06:18 We Made It!

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🎵 Music – licensed by Epidemic Sound 🎵
3 AM – Lennon Hutton
A Moment of Truth – DEX 1200
Buried Time – Rand Aldo
Danger Awaits – Bill Ferngren
Falling Slowly (Instrumental Version) – Anna Landstrom
Fallout – Lennon Hutton
Gaze of the Cobra – Arc De Soleil
Intimacy (Instrumental Version) – Alex Kehm
Malhana – DEX 1200
Never Before – Fabien Tell
One Step Away – Dian Shuai
Pardesiya – Tripti Sharma
Rise of the Sun God – Dream Cave
Shifting Ground – Luba Hilman
The Atom – Christoffer Moe Ditlevsen
Errands – Fabien Tell
Liberate – Peter Sandberg
Can’t Stop – Ryan James Carr

#pamirhighway #gcn #bikepacking #ultracycling #adventure #tajikistan #kyrgyzstan #afghanistan
#cycling #gravel #bikelife

📸 Photos – © Velo Collection (TDW) / Getty Images & © Sirotti Images

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[Music] This is the heroine highway. More opium is smuggled along it than any other road in the world. It’s like being on another planet, something out of Mars. It crosses the rugged Pameir mountains, one of the most inhospitable places on the planet. From Afghanistan to Kyrgyzstan. Oh my gosh. Nature just always has a way of humbling you, bring you back down to earth. And we’re going to try to ride it. Apparently, this road went straight through here last week and uh now the river has just totally washed it away. [Music] This region is politically volatile. After years of conflict and tension, the route has only just reopened. [Music] However, riding through here, we’ll meet the most welcoming people who make this place their home. I’m so happy to to be into the yacht. and discover a landscape that’s as beautiful as it is brutal. It’s one of those climbs you can see from a distance. It just looks like a wall. [Music] I’ve ridden my bike in many places, but nothing has truly prepared me for this. I’m taking on the highest 540 km section of the highway in 4 days. leaving Kyrgyzstan, crossing Tajikistan, and eventually reaching the border with Afghanistan. And that’s if I can make it. This is the Pameir Highway. This is a ride I’ve always dreamed of taking on. And thanks to Wahoo and Shimano, I’ve got the chance to do just that. This is an adventure like no other. [Music] The one you love. [Music] [Music] The one you love. The one you wanted to see destroyed. [Music] [Music] We’ve arrived. This is Sar Tash, the start town of our ride. It’s on the southern Kyrgyzstan border. It’s been a real long journey actually to get here. A bumpy road trip from the airport south and I’m just so excited to finally get here. You feel like you’re at this like crossroads of the world. It’s like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. The landscape is just mindblowing. If you head that way, you go to China. If you go that way on Premier Highway, you go through Tajjikistan and eventually Afghanistan. And that is where we’re going in a few days time. First though, we’re getting our bearings. We’re checking this town out. We’re kind of resupplying a bit, getting our kit sorted, and it’s time to hit the road. The Premier Highway is pretty much the only route that you can take to cross the Pame Mountains. So, if you look at it on a map, it’s at this kind of knuckle just north of the Himalayas. the Tian Shan, the Karacaram, the Hindu Kush and they all kind of meet in this region of the world. There’s gigantic mountains everywhere. And if you want to cross the Pierre Mountains, you pretty much have to take the Pameir Highway to head south from here from Kyrgyzstan into Tajjikistan and eventually Afghanistan. Technically, it’s a road. It’s paved in places, but it’s heavily damaged by landslides, erosion, and also sheer neglect. So, the terrain and the surface of what we’ll be traveling on is going to be really tough. They are so high. [Music] They just rise up out of nowhere as well. Just everywhere. People have been passing through here for thousands of years. So this was once part of the Silk Road network, which is this kind of ancient historic trading network between Asia and Europe. And passing through here has always been a challenge. It’s always been hard going. And I think that’s the same today, especially by bike on two wheels. So I’m a little apprehensive if I’m honest. But also, I feel by taking this highway on the rewards are just going to be immense in terms of what we’re going to experience. Oh, I love a purrack. I love it. I love a purak. The amount of gubbins I’m going to get on this. Oh, yes. There’s nothing that excites me more. Ready for adventure. To take this on, I’ve enlisted the help of an experienced ultra cyclist, a wonderfully French person, but also someone who’s up for anything I know will have no complaints in terms of what I might throw at him. It’s Max Pria from GCN on Fron. You got a bit of a mullet going, Max. I like it. I like it. You’ve also got a massive bit of yak poo on you. my bump. It’s good luck. It’s good luck. It’s a very good luck. This is one of the main reasons I brought Max cuz I knew even if he gets pooed on by a yak, he’ll still be happy. Yeah, of course I’m happy. It’s a very good luck. I’m Maxim Preer, the French presenter of the channel in YouTube, Chr. and I ride ultra cycling race since 7 years now and I’m very happy for that. The story of Conor invite me is pretty fun. I was on the train. He sent me a text messages. He say, “Oh, hey Max. How are you? Are you available uh two weeks in August?” I say, “Why?” “Oh, we we are going to Tajikistan.” I I just asked Max if he wanted to come and to be honest I I feel bad but it’s almost like I didn’t know if I needed to ask him because I knew he’d say yes straight away. So and see really it’s amazing and that’s why I’m here now. I’m glad to have Max because such good morale and I feel like we’re both going to be absolutely battered at various points on this ride and morale is everything. So, I think hopefully we’ll both get each other through. This is the setup that I’ll be using across the Pameir Highway. A little bit more packing to do, but you can see it’s starting to take shape. So, this is Canyon’s latest adventure gravel bike, the Grizzle, and it has evolved to be even more suited to mad travel on two wheels. There’s a ton of carry capacity on this really large frame triangle, so you can fit quite a lot in there with a frame bag. Also, eight different mounting points for all your gear, which I’m making the most of, apart from a rear pa rack. And there’s clearance for 54 mil tires. I’ve gone for 50s, which I think is quite important cuz we’re going it’s going to be pretty rough. And I tell you what, I am loving the color on this. It is popping on this landscape. Nice blue purple. Now this is speced with Shimano GRX 12speed mechanical. Now you have really wide gear spacing for this group set and the options to go for a 51 at the back. I’ve actually gone a little less than that. I’ve gone for a 45 because whilst I think the climbs are going to be tough, I don’t think they’re going to be super steep and I hope I don’t regret that choice. But it’s nice to know you have the option if your riding does take you somewhere steep. JX is specifically designed for gravel riding. is designed to take a beating on the rough stuff and still perform. And that’s what I want from this bike because where we’re going, there are no easy fixes. So, I want all the kit I’m using to be robust, to be reliable, and still do what I wanted to. Another important bit of kit that I’ve chosen is my head unit. Navigation obviously really key where we’re going. I haven’t got a clue what we’re about to take on. So, I need to know that I can stay on track. I’ve opted for Wahoo’s largest bike computer, the Element Ace. It’s got the largest screen size, so I can really clearly see where we’re going. It’s important, too, because we’ve been warned about the risk of landmines if you stray too far off the Pame Highway. So, definitely want to stay on track here. Uh, it’s got the largest battery life, too, up to 30 hours, which is going to mean that I don’t have to worry about that when we’re riding and potentially losing my maps, which are all pre-downloaded. And if it does get low, I can also use the dynamo hub to give it a little top up. So, this should last for the entire adventure without even having to take it off the handlebars. All that’s left to do now, though, is to put the remainder of my kit on here. Figure out where I’m going to put the rest of my goubbins and what kit might have to be left behind. It’s time to hit the road. [Music] Stuff keeps going on my bike. Thought I’d pack this quite lightly, but I’m I’m cho block. Look at those beauties. Like proper proper mules loaded up. I was boasting about um my bike being lighter than usual, but keeping quiet today. Right then, the weight’s over. I’m so excited. We’re all ready. We’re all packed. It’s time to set off, mate. Yeah. First day. We’re going to cross the border. Climb to 4,200. Straight into it. No, no messing. You see where we’re going behind us? You can see the mountains. No, I saw a wall. Yeah, a wall of mountains, which kind of paints the picture for the whole of this trip. But I’m excited to get going. Let’s do it, mate. Do you have took a banana on your shot? It’s weird backpacker have banana. I thought you take baguettes. I have one for you. Oh, you keep it. Yeah. I mean, I was expecting the baguette and the the nice cam bear, but I’ll take a banana. Come on then, Max. Yeah, I’ll follow your wheel. Yeah. [Music] [Applause] The road awaits. Yeeha. [Music] So, we’ve left Sar Tash behind. The ride’s underway. Leaving town, our last kind of civilization really until the end of day two’s ride. So, a long way out in remote country. Feels good to be going, though. Yeah, bike is heavy. You can see town disappearing behind us. We’re on this kind of flat valley between the two mountain ranges now. And our first major pass and the border crossing awaits us in about 25 km. And this road we’re on now is crazy. It’s just so open. It disappears off into the horizon. Mind-blowing place. I’m very happy to start. Yeah. Yeah. As we start our ride, we’re reminded of the vast reach of the Silk Road for which the Pameir Highway was once part of. Once a network of roots linking Asia, East Africa, and Europe, it carried things like silk, gold, and wine for over 2,000 years. Today, trade continues, but in a darker way. Opium now flows along these paths. An estimated 20% of Afghanistan’s heroin, around 90 tons a year, moves through Tajjikistan via the Pameir Highway, earning its other name, Heroine Highway. And the trade is thought to equal a third of the nation’s GDP. Whatever the cargo, though, the challenges of crossing this landscape remain. And despite your reasons for traveling here, there are still very real tensions in the region to navigate, which 35 km into our ride, we encountered headon. [Music] Okay, so there’s explosions going off next to the road, which isn’t doing my nerves any sort of favors. Seeing as I am riding to Afghanistan. Not just explosions, I’ve seen like some missiles getting fired. It’s like literally not firing. It’s only 500 m from the road. You heard the explosion? Yeah. Yeah. Do you see it? Saw it. Me, too. That was heavy bomb. Yeah, it was missiles. Our good start, however, didn’t last for long as a little further up the road, we encountered live military drills close to the border. The border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan has only just reopened after 5 years. previously impassible because of political tensions in the area that even spilled over into arms conflict, leaving many dead and thousands fleeing. The root of this is thought to date back to the early 1900s when national borders were redrawn by Soviet diplomats dividing ethnic groups and leading to friction ever since, particularly after the fall of the Soviet Union that saw the emergence of new central Asian republics. The final spark though was access to water. And looking around us, it’s not hard to see why. The relationship between Tajikistan and Kyrgystan has thawed in recent years. However, from what we’re experiencing on the ground, tensions were still there. Obviously, this part of the world geopolitical situation is very different from where we’re from. We were very aware of the history of this region and the potential risks and what’s happened in the past here. We had a lot of respect for that. We knew it was safe to take this route on. There’s been a steady trickle of travelers as well who’ve been taking this route on, but the border has only just opened. We knew that it had been closed for like 4 years. But I don’t think I expected to see them kind of straight away and that military presence. You can see where it’s landing is a long way. hell is a long way. They’re firing that thing like 4K. Literally firing 4K. The route was still open to traffic, but it was a sobering experience. And soon the presence of our cameras attracted suspicion that would call into question the possibility of continuing our film. Okay. Okay. Eventually, we were allowed to continue riding, but under the condition that our cameras were turned off until we’d crossed the first border checkpoint, which were escorted to. Our worries continued, though. It was as unclear if our cameras would be confiscated upon arrival. There are now three key border checkpoints to pass through into Tajjikistan, including a demilitarized zone. It seemed at this point that filming our ride and creating this film might potentially end before it had truly begun. I heard one of the border kind of officers say, “You’re crazy. Like it’s not safe.” And I think the fact we’re going by bike and they’re probably only just starting to see more and more travelers moving through by bike. It’s another kind of like voice in the back of your mind being like, “Okay.” Thankfully though, after reaching an agreement with officials, we were again allowed to continue. Tajikistan beckoned and we could once more enjoy the ride. It’s like a Kyrgyzstan pirmax. This is one of the most mental roads I’ve ever done in my life. So, we’ve crossed the first Kyrgyzstan border and we’re now into like a 20 km stretch until the next border and then we go through the Tajikistan border. So, we passed our kind of first checkpoint and we’re in this like valley now where there really is absolutely nothing. So dramatic. We’re following the river up the pass because pass tops at the final checkpoint. So hard to describe cuz it is Oh, it really is like nothing I’ve ever done on a bike. Just incredible. [Music] We’re up to like 3,800 m now. And the effort’s really costing. Kind of just plotting along really. And just talking for a bit, you really feel it. It’s hard going, but it’s absolutely beautiful. I I feel like I’m going to say that a lot. This is the premier highway that I read about. Unexpected, but I didn’t expect it just to be on this scale. And we’ve got some of the hardest stations to come. I think the worst part can be the finale claim today. Tomorrow we’re going to have a very high point, a 4,600 m with low temperature. I like to ride on the sun when it’s difficult. Honestly, that’s make me happy. You haven’t even had your bananas yet? Yeah. You want a banana? I’m okay. Yeah, I have to genuinely I think I’d have to stop to eat it though actually. And judging from the profile on my wahoo, it’s about to get a lot steeper. [Music] That was some climb at the bottom. I wasn’t sure where the road would go, how you get over this mountain range. Just stunning. At the top, I was struggling. I just not struggling. I just had to take it easy as you feel the altitude. Yeah, but the end was so steep like the bus country. Really steep. Hey, really steep. I tell you what though, I’m running one by 12 speed on the Shani TRX. Said at the start I went for a 45 and you were laughing cuz you’re using a 51. Yeah. And you get such a wide spacing on this group set on the 12-speed option. But still I personally for me with the bike loaded felt smooth. I was okay. Anyway, that is the Kyrgystan border. Yeah. 1 km that way is the Tajikistan border and we’ll be spending the rest of this this ride. Look at what awaits. You can see the snow if you look really closely on the mountains. First hard bit of the day done. That was some start. So happy. Good job, mate. Make it. Did you ever tell? Yeah. [Music] So, we’ve completed all our border checkpoints, which is a big relief. And actually didn’t take us as long as we thought we’d have to stop for. And now we’ve made it into Sajikistan. [Music] So, when I said the Premier Highway was always heavily damaged, here’s your prime example. Apparently, this road went straight through here last week and uh now the river has just totally washed it away. So, as you can see, there’s a few bits of heavy flow there. I think me and Max will be all right. We could probably just get through there. The problem is our filmmakers have to try and find a way to drive across this. No, here it should be. All right. It’s not very Yeah. deep. I’m going to give it a go. [Music] It’s quite This is quite far to get across. That bit is quite heavy actually. I think you need to go further. We don’t have to think, just go fast. And I think we can win with that. I’m going to cross the river. He’s [Music] going for it. [Music] Might walk it. [Applause] [Music] Oh, it’s cold. I love it. I love it. It’s what it’s all about. [Music] [Music] We soon would learn we were going to encounter on each day. There’s just such an element of unknown and the road can change from day to day and there’s really no way of knowing. There’s no signal. You have to try and like mime with locals to understand if there’s any differences on the route. And I think that was that first kind of wake up of this is a pretty remote road with a lot of unknowns to it. [Music] So disaster averted. We’ve made it across the wash out bridge, but it’s just a kind of taste of what’s to come. I I feel it’s just we are at the mercy of nature and what might happen on this route. And if the road is washed out, it’s going to make things tough. [Music] We found a room thankfully and there’s no mosquitoes attacking us. I’d have loved to have stayed on the lake. It was so beautiful. But I’ve been attacked by mosquitoes in that way before and it didn’t end well. Full infection all the like a swarm of them. So, I think we need to accept defeat. Set up a bed. It’s not too bad to sleep here. Yeah, it’s a bit small for me. My My son’s bed’s a bit bigger than that. I might sleep on the floor, but it’s a welcome sign. Tomorrow we have a very big day. Yeah, we got a huge day tomorrow. Huge day over the biggest pass. Oh, let’s rest our weary heads. Good job, Max. Good job, little mountain goat. I’m so happy. I’ll beat you on the downhill, though. As we settled in for the night, I noticed I wasn’t quite feeling 100%. I had a growing headache, stomach pains, and nausea. Unfortunately, I began to feel worse. And at this point, thoughts of riding the following day began to fade. Instead, replaced by worries over whether I’d be able to continue on this adventure at all. So Connor is sleeping me not. He have a little bit headache. So he put some oxygen in the noise maybe to feel better because we are um uh 300 3,900 m of elevation. So it’s pretty high. Or maybe it’s only the sun or the vegetation, but he’s sleeping. We’re going to check the sunset on the lake. Going to be awesome. [Music] Connor spent the night vomitting. We did all we could to help him, but he felt so bad for him. Thankfully, as the night continued, it didn’t get much worse, and we all hope that it would improve. But it was impossible to make the plan until the morning came. [Music] So, Ka, you feel better today? Yeah, a little bit better. I felt um really rough last night. Yeah. Like it hit me really quickly. I was fine the whole time on the ride and then like as soon as we stopped and just sorted our stuff out and got on our beds even when we were looking at the camp spot there I was fine. Soon as I stopped I felt my headache come on. Started to feel nauseous. Um, and I thought if I drank and ate I’d feel a bit better and just got worse and then like Yeah. threw up everything. Yeah. Which was not fun. You look very bad yesterday. Oh man, I was in a bad way and I was like kind of worrying if it would get worse. I was starting to kind of Yeah. worry. But actually after I did the first like vomit, then I like calmed down a bit and I felt okay and I was able to sleep. So I slept through the night. Um I real I don’t know what it was. When you’re in a place like this though, you you realize how isolated you are. Does humble you a bit. you made yesterday look easy and actually it was quite a tough day with the two climbs at altitude. It’s it’s because I have the biggest chain cassette. Thanks, Shimano. I’m very happy to see you much better today. Yeah, I think it was just going through my head yesterday night. I was like, “Oh, yeah. I don’t know if I’m fit enough for this anymore. After all the preparation and the planning, I was like, “Oh man, I actually don’t know if I’m strong enough to do this.” You’re still a little bit white, but I think it’s because you’re Irish. It’s fine. It’s fine. Thanks, Max. Your coffee is not too bad to be fair to you. I think I use the wrong water. Me is pretty bad. I have too much sugar inside. It’s not the greatest coffee to start the day, but we don’t have a lot of option. [Music] Kitted up. Yeah, we’re packed up again. It’s a good sign. I’m so happy to be to see you in shape. Thanks, mate. Thanks. I’m looking forward to getting going again. I’m apprehensive because it’s going to be it’s going to be a tough day. There’s no two ways about it, but I’m looking forward to getting going. And it’s nice to be like feeling myself again and be able to appreciate where we are cuz it’s just such a unique place in the world. It’s just like nothing else. But yeah, we’ve got a tough day ahead. We’re going over the highest point the whole Premier Highway over 4,600 touching 47 I think. Um, and it’s basically 60 km uphill slowly and then steep at the end and with a strong sun today. And it’s hot. It’s hot. There’s no cloud cover today. So, it’s another another part. But in my head, I’m thinking just make it to the top nice and easy. And if we can make it there, we can make it to the finish. So, that’s the that’s the goal. Yeah, we can do it, Max. We can do it. Well, I hope I can do it. I know you can. I will help you if you need. Yeah, you can count on me. Thanks, mate. You’ve given me some bananas. So, yeah. You want the banana? Should we do it then? Yeah. See how we go? Let’s go. Let’s go, Max. [Music] We’re leaving Caracle and we’re pedaling, which is something that honestly last night I didn’t think was going to happen. So, this feels really good. Really good. It’s super still here today. No wind as of yet. And we’re just taking it really easily. enjoying the views of the lake which are mindboggling. It’s like being on another planet. [Music] I think as I started riding through day two, I managed to feel better and better. Like I was eating a bit as I was riding. I was managing to drink. Everything was staying down. It’s feeling okay. So it was like right step by step. Super easy. Take it easy. It’s almost sometimes easier to break down when you have a big climb because you you know that summit’s a bit of a finish line. You know you’re going to get some rest at the end. 35 km done of the day. And we estimate the top of the climb is 60k in. So still another 25k of climbing. Yeah. And the road deteriorates more from here. And like we were almost at the top at this point of the pass from yesterday. So, it’s hard hard going. So, I’ve been riding 45k, mostly uphill. I’m putting near like 15k to go to the summit of the major climb, the highest on the route, the Aka South Pass. I’ve just spotted it lower slopes as it kind of meanders away from this valley. A very sharp gradient. It’s one of those climbs you can see from a distance. It just looks like a wall. I’m struggling on this bit already. We’re so high. This washboard gravel is just shakes you about. So there’s no easy riding. And obviously things are about to get a lot tougher. So we saw a yurt, aptly named fast food yurt. And it was nice just to get in out of the sun, recover a little bit, just like brace yourself for the final effort up to the top of the climb, which is like the last final push where the gradients ramp up. I’m so happy to to be into the yacht. Please. Thank you. Hamat. Uh, yeah. Oh, man. I really want to try the yak butter. Conor, I have to say something to you. What’s that? I don’t like the black tea. No, but more caffeine. I I can’t speak with the people here, so I drink the black tea. But I don’t like it. I like it. It’s nice. You are Irish. Of course you like tea. Do you want to try the yak butter? I really want to, but after last night I’m scared. Try it. I don’t want I’m really scared after last night. It’s like clotted cream. Wow. [Music] And it’s almost like when you are on the Premier Highway, there’s really such little resupply options that when you do see something, it’s like you should stop. Um, but it was a lovely, lovely place. It’s so hospitable. We had a bit of tea, get something to eat. Just that just that shade got us ready for for the final push. [Music] [Applause] [Music] 4 and a half th000 m high. Oh my gosh, this climb. It is cruel. So, so cruel. We just managed to get ourselves over the steeper sections. [Music] Keeping it rolling. I’m actually not feeling too bad in the legs. Just pushing. I’m just pushing. Got about 2 and 1 halfk to the top. [Music] Oh my gosh. Nature just always has a way of humbling you, bring you back down to earth. [Music] I’m trying to kind of stay positive and banish banish thoughts I’ve been off to much more than I can [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] We did it. Good job. Good job, mate. Good job. you finally. Now we are only downhill. 4,650 kilo high. Yeah. Oh man, it’s crazy. If you want, we go down a little bit and I will make a French coffee for you. I I’d take a French coffee at this stage. I’ I I’d do that. Thanks, Max. Oh, man. But seriously, that climb was incredible. So hard. Just like we managed our effort well, actually, because last night I did not think we’d be up here. Yeah. No way. So, I’m proud. Proud of us. Thanks for getting me through it, mate. Yeah, these mountains like a lot of relief getting to the top of the climb. I was worried I’d kind of get halfway there and then be so weak or like not be able to make it and we’d have to go back. Like that was always in the back of my mind. So a big sense of relief to get to the top because it meant I would be able to recover. We could descend. We’d get to like the next night stop and move, keep moving. I think that was what was important. So yeah, big sense of relief. Um and the adventure was continuing. [Music] After crossing the highest point on our route, we had 70 km to descend all the way to Marcap, one of only a few towns spread across the Premier Highway. A guest house awaited, but so too did our first taste of headwinds. [Music] Oh, we’ve made it to MGAB. What a day. Well done, mate. Good job bringing it in. 8 hours of riding later. One of the biggest headwinds ever. Feel like I’ve had a haird dry blowing me all day at the end there. And we’ve arrived in some form of civilization, which is a welcome sight. You know something today we not turn. We not crossing other road. No the same road the whole way. Yeah. Oh, it’s mental. Oh, the wind at the end. It was broken. It was insane. Why? You see why pass us? Yeah, it was brutal. Oh my god. It got worse and worse. Even worse in town. Oh my gosh. We were suffering. Yeah. Good job. [Music] That was Someday, Max. Someday. Thanks for getting me through it because I actually didn’t think I was going to when we got up this morning. Um, yeah, I was weak, but you pulled me around and we did it. So, fair play. We are a team. And what a place what a place to ride a bike through. I’m not sure I’ll ever experience anything like that again. That was just unbelievable. But tomorrow, unfortunately, isn’t any easier and I’ve been thinking about it. Yeah. Is it’s going to be potentially our hardest day if we’re going to do it and get to the finish like we said on the Afghanistan border. We’ve got 2 days left to ride. Yeah. So, it’s 160 km tomorrow, then 120k the day after. But the 160k tomorrow, we’re told, is the roughest part of the Premier Highway and the longest. And the longest, we also climb back up to a plateau above 4,000 m. So, we have the altitude again to kind of contend with. The problem is we have to make the finish in that time, otherwise we’re not going to make our flight home. So, and also we have to think about the crew here. The drivers who are driving the crew don’t want to drive at night. Yeah. On the highway. So, we’re limited in the hours we can ride. So, basically after speaking with the drivers, speaking with the crew, we have a checkpoint tomorrow. Yeah. We go for the we go for broke. We try and make it as we planned, but if we don’t make it to the halfway point tomorrow by 12:00, yeah, that’s kind of like we’re not gonna we have to accept we’re not going to make it and we’ll we’ll get to that bridge when we get there. But that is our checkpoint and we have to make it to stick to our goal and tomorrow should be headwind and headwind which we got a taste of today. And we’re also told that tomorrow is always a headwind. Okay. Yeah, it’s not good situation. The odds aren’t in our favor. Max, up early. Yeah, big breakfast and go broke. You got it, mate. Bonui. Bonui. [Music] [Music] Maybe I’m being too nervous. Feeling good though. I slept well. Didn’t stay down, which is the main thing. It’s just when you’re up this high, I know what my body can do at sea level. But up here, I don’t. So, it’s quite scary to push yourself past your limits. You don’t really want to. So, that’s where my nerves are coming from. [Music] We got to get to lunch. So, there’s town before 12 if we’re going to make it. Lost a little bit of time from my flapping this morning, but so far not too bad. We leave it quart 7 in the morning. You know the the name of the restaurant? Green Dragon. The golden fish. Golden fish. That’s it. Golden fish. I can’t wait. Let’s go. Right then, Max. Let’s give it our best. Yeah. [Music] [Applause] Start to day three. Merab in the background there. We’re off to an early start. Yesterday was so tough and we’re both really proud of getting through it. It was an amazing day, but also any kind of feelings of triumph were dampened by the fact that we had the worst headwind of our lives. It’s this dry, dusty wind at the end and we were just so scared that we’d have that all day today. It all went well. It was like the wind was in our favor. It’s relatively still and it was like maybe we’ve got away with this. But I tell you what, we’ve got up early. It’s absolutely beautiful. The wind’s so still. And if anything, we’ve got a bit of a tailwind. It’s looking good. Because I so naive about what we’re about to take on. Normally, I get a sense of where difficult bits are going to be on a route. It’s looking good, everyone. We’re making progress. So now we just need to kind of get our heads down and make hay while the sun shines. That’s the expression, isn’t it? And honestly, I have no idea how hard this next bit was going to be. Wish us luck. What a spot though to leave in the morning. Look at that. What a morning to be on the bike. Yeah. 20 25k in the wind turned hit us and that was when I was like yeah we are in big trouble [Music] [Music] what started as a tailwind wind quickly changed to a headwind. We’re now about 4,000 m altitude. I’m really really struggling. Got to admit it. I’m just like you’re you’re working into the headwind and also working just to breathe still after all these days. It’s like it is just tough. 40k done. We think it’s actually 60k now to where we need to have lunch. We think it’s it was 105k from where we started and 15 to the top the bus. This climb is actually a proper climb. Yeah, we are riding around 50 kilome right now. Not because it’s steep, just because the wind it’s like that. [Music] [Music] The wind’s been really picking up the last little while. It’s getting stronger and stronger. Block headwind. It’s meant we’ve been making really slow progress. I’ve been looking down at my Wahoo and because of the wind sensor, I can see how strong the winds actually are. And I’ve been consistently seeing it 50 to 70 km an hour. So surrounding. That’s kite surfing weather. Oh my gosh. And we’re just getting absolutely battered by it. Those just all the ingredients of such a challenging bike ride. We’re plugging away though. Plugging away. [Music] Honestly, this part of the Premier Highway for me I found so hard. I found it really, really tough. We’re 5 hours in. Still battling this headband. only coming 63 kilometers. Doing the maths, we’re looking at a 13-hour day to get to where we need to be on the bike. It’s starting to prove a little bit futile. It’s It’s bleak. It’s really bleak up there. It’s the harshest part of the route. You’re battling all the elements. There’s no shelter whatsoever. It’s so dry. totally like virtually devoid of life. You don’t see much water. I really struggled with it. Really, really struggled with that day. I have so much respect for people who who take on this route by whatever means. And for me, it was like a real mental battle actually getting through there. It was like I don’t want to say wasteland but it was like just desert really. It’s just harsh. [Music] Oh, I’ve just stopped for another little break to get out the wind a bit and have a snack. Covered maybe another 20k since our last break, but it’s been tough going. It’s been some of the roughest sections of the Premier Highway so far. Just the road is blown out everywhere. There’s holes. You’re weaving through it all and the wind is just battering you. It’s been tough tough going. But while I stopped, I thought it’d be a good time actually to tell you a bit more about some of the kit I’ve been using on this trip. As I mentioned before, I’m using Shimano GRX specs on my bike. Now, you can actually get GRX in a 10, 11, and 12 speed option with 11 and 12 being an electronic and mechanical, and all the rest being in mechanical, too. I’m using a mechanical group set, which to be honest, my experience with electronic group sets, they’re so bomb-proof now, but I think if you’re doing such a long trip like this, having mechanical, you know, if you’re in some of these remote places, if you do have an issue, potentially got a slightly better chance of fixing it. So, that’s been quite nice to know because out here really like you are on your own. And it’s quite humbling to think actually about what might happen if you do get caught out. So the rear derailer on this as well actually takes clutch technology from some of Shimano’s mountain bike group sets. So as we’ve been battering over here, that’s helped a lot to keep the chain where it needs to be. Also, if you are looking to kind of mix and match components, it’s also good to know that GRX is actually compatible with all of Shimano’s road group sets, too, as long as you keep within the same 10, 11, or 12 speed family. I tell you what, as you can see, I’ve put it through its paces on this trip, and so far, it’s standing up to the test. Still a good bit to go, though. Time to keep getting those snacks on board. Soon, back out into the wind. Yeah, we’ve ridden 6 and a4 hours, done 84 km. Let’s go. Yeah, we’re buckled. It’s the first time I’ve been able to hear anything then like Yeah. a fan in my ear for 7 and 1 half hours or something. 14 kilome average, which is great. I’m so buckled. So buckled. [Music] Oh, I I genuinely have no idea how we’ve made it here. I genuinely do not know how we made it here. We just pedal. Yeah. I literally was like kilometer by kilometer. I feel like I’ve said that a lot on this point, haven’t we? It’s unbelievable. [Music] We made it to Aliu, the midpoint village, and our own designated checkpoint, but the wind has severely dented our progress, and we’re massively off schedule timewise. At this point, figuring out what we do next is the main challenge, and morale is at rock bottom. After a muchneeded meal, we weighed our options. Our film crews drivers refused to drive the highway at night, and none of us wanted to split up. But staying the night here meant missing the Tajjikistan border the following day. After speaking to the Golden Fish Cafe owners, it emerged a local could drive us bikes the final 80 km. It felt like defeat, but to keep our journey moving, it was really our only option. So, we swallowed our pride. Grateful yet bittersweet, the adventure continued, though the highway had definitely won this round. Okay, we thankfully found a lift. The adventure is still on by slightly different means. This is going to keep us moving. [Music] So, we’re back on the road. Admittedly, by slightly different means, but unfortunately, our chances of making it by bike today pretty hopeless in that headwind. And this is our best bet. if we want to make up some ground. Very kindly, even who lives in Alitude, the the town we just stopped in, has offered to drive us on to our our destination for tonight, which is the hot springs. And now we’re we’re holding on for dear life, cuz this is the bumpiest section of a beer highway, and we’re going for it. We’ve made it then to the end of day three. Thought we’re a bit snookered up there, but thankfully our friend Ibrahim stepped in. What a legend. I’ve never seen someone drive a 4×4 like that. And actually driving that section, we’d have needed a whole extra day to do it. So, kind of just shows we’ve tried our best to figure out timings on the highway and it’s so hard and obviously we got it wrong. I think if we’d have had a tailwind, we’d have made obviously a lot better more progress. Yeah, but we we can’t believe we can have a tailwind, you know. So, it was still like 7 and 1 half hours. I think that was very good map for a race. Yeah. Not for I enjoyed. But the main thing is the road. We have made it. We’re within touching distance at the southern border of Tajjikistan. A dog is now eating my pumpkin pastries. So they’re gone. I think he’s mine. So at least I carried them here for him. He’s having a nice snack. You work away, mate. You do. You go for it. Enjoy. We’ve made it. I’m still I’m still It was always going to be an adventure. Hopefully tomorrow we have no win. No advantage. No disadvantage. I don’t know the name. Come on, mate. Let’s get ourselves sorted. Yeah. [Music] How do you feel about how everything went? Yeah, I’m a little bit frustrated, but if I understand, if I look what we did today, we can’t do better because if we still on the bike, we arrive maybe around midnight. So that was the best option of course and the W was really strong. I feel I feel bad to think you could have done it on your own. I I if I’m honest I couldn’t have done it. It was when I saw what we still had to do. That is a whole another day. So for me I’m like actually very relieved we made it really happy. Um, it’s an adventure and yeah, definitely you never quite know what’s going to happen and we only have a certain amount of time and we’re still moving. We’re still on the highway. We still have one day to go and tomorrow I think the day will be amazing. Yeah. To the finish at the Afghan border. Yeah. And where we found ourselves in the hot springs literally the absolute bay about 120 km tomorrow and the valley it’s like a valley road just narrows and narrows downhill all the way down and then we made it to the border. Yeah, definitely. Oh, so hot, Max. Our final day of riding to the finish to the Afghanistan border. We’re going all the way down, down, down, down. And we’ve completed that high crossing of the Premier Highway. Mostly by bike. But I can’t wait. I’m I feel a bit more refreshed this morning. I feel ready for it again. I just cannot wait. It’s got absolutely nothing to do with the fact that it’s all downhill today and there’s a tailwind. Me, I’m very bad to today. Yeah, I think I pushed too much yesterday. Yeah, I could see it was it was taxing yesterday. It was taxing. So, yeah, hopefully I take your hair wheels and do nothing. But it’s a beautiful spot where we’re starting here. It’s absolutely stunning. Absolutely stunning. And you feel like it’s it’s changed again along the highway. And I feel like we’re going to get that today quite a lot as we descend down. There’s only one thing left to do. Let’s get back on those bikes one last time. Let’s go. Nice. [Music] We’re moving. Final day. We’re riding to Afghanistan. It’s a beautiful morning. Absolutely glorious. We’re cruising down slowly dropping altitude. About 120k to do today. And I just want to enjoy it. Just enjoy it on my bike with an absolutely mad French man who’s been the best company across this whole trip. Honestly, Max, couldn’t have done it without you, mate. [Music] [Music] Less than 100 km to go and so far it’s been been wonderful. I’ll tell you one thing, it’s been nice to just see life again. It feels like we’re kind of coming into civilization once more after yesterday where really there was almost no sign of life. Seeing trees, seeing little farms and villages, everyone’s waving, being really welcoming. It’s such a great way to finish this trip off. Still a little while to go. It’s been good. Oh, [Music] [Applause] one thing I have noticed is just how fast you descend it, especially when you’re higher up at alsho. On days one and two, we were absolutely flying and actually it was it was a task just to maintain a a comfortable speed. The brakes were getting put through their paces and also the body because you’re in that position for so long. [Music] We’re doing it. The headwind has kicked off again, but the end is in sight. This has been solid experience. [Music] We’re down to 2 and a half thousand m and we’re picking up kind of more and more villages. They’re slowly turning into towns. It’s getting busier and busier. You can sense we’re coming into civilization. And it’s crazy. We’ve been descending for like,00 m from where we started. I feel so much better. I’ve suddenly I’ve got energy again. I wouldn’t go as far as saying I feel like Superman, but but I do feel I’m I’m going that way. No, no, no. Don’t push too much, please. But it’s mad because 2 and a half thousand m that’s higher than most like altitude training camps. Yeah. Back in Europe. It’s Is it higher than Sierra Nevada, I think? Is it? Yeah. There you go. The top of the last climb on the finish line to our Premier Highway. Woo! Zog down there. This road has been spectacular today. The valley has been narrowing. We’ve been following the river and you can see how narrow it is here. Just sheer size coming down. You can see the road we’re about to take to Kog, the Afghanistan mountains in the distance. Max, what an adventure. Put it there. What an adventure. Now though, all that’s left to do is descend down. Yeah. [Music] As we descend down to the Pang River, separating Tajikistan from Afghanistan, we’re following the final section of the modern-day Premier Highway. Built towards the end of the 19th century as a military road designed to quickly move Russian troops south in case of invasion northwards by the British Empire. At the time, both British and Russian empires were trying to expand their influence around the world in a rivalry that became known as the Great Game. With the British in southern Asia and the Russians to the north, the modern-day Afghanistan border was somewhat of a frontier post at the time, and the Premier Highway became a key route to reach it. As we’ve discovered, the road is wild and remote. But back then, it must have been on another scale, and seeing the greenery return to the valley would have been a welcome sight, as any journey through the premiieres neared completion. I feel like it sobered me quite a lot. I feel like I’ve been really humbled actually by taking it on and riding across because I found it so hard. I really did. I found it really hard and yet people are doing this all the time. and making it look a lot easier than I do. So, I feel like yeah, like the Premier Highway kind of beat me. I feel so and I’ve got a lot of respect for it. A lot of respect for it. [Music] [Music] Good job, buddy. Job. We made it. Wow. He’s here. Incredible. What a journey. What an adventure. Flip the neck. Oh my gosh. Behind me, the river meets the Patz River and behind that those mountains is Afghanistan. We made it all the way here across Tajjikistan. Yeah, it’s crazy. And to think of like it’s such a big city here in amongst the mountains. And to think back on how the Premier Highway has been used as a trading route, past and present, and following in its tracks on our bikes, but it’s been so hard. Yeah, every day was so hard. It’s like you said, no kilometer is easy. We’ve had to earn every single one. Apart from maybe the massive tailwind on day one, but let’s No, it’s not only the kilometer. It’s an event max. Put it there. Thank you for sharing with me. It has been it’s been an absolute pleasure. [Music] And so our journey on the Premier Highway came to an end. It was always going to be an adventure, but in all honesty, it threw more at us than I expected and definitely beat us at times. It’s fair to say though that the Premier Highway truly humbled me. I’ve never ridden through a place quite like it. A unique, tough corner of the world, and as far as bike rides go, about as bonkers as it ever gets. What? What’s next for me? Nor normally I’d like to be I’d say what’s next, but I think I think you’ll have to ask me that question in a few weeks. Yeah. I don’t know. I want a hot bath. I want a cattle. I’ll put that in the edit. [Music]