Ardennen: Outdoor-Abenteuer zwischen Belgien, Frankreich & Luxemburg | ARD Reisen

Die Ardennen – so nah und trotzdem vielen als Reiseziel unbekannt. Dabei ist die Grenzregion zwischen Belgien, Frankreich und Luxemburg gleicher-maßen spannend für Outdoorfans, historisch Interessierte und für Kulturfans. Denn in den Ardennen trifft wilde Natur auf viel Geschichte. Für Wunder-schön schnallt sich Reporter Ramon Babazadeh den roten Rucksack auf den Rücken und entdeckt eine Region, in der Menschen leben, deren Heimatver-bundenheit sich in ihrer Liebe zur Natur sowie ihrem Bewusstsein für Tradition und Geschichte widerspiegelt.

Ramons Reise startet mit einem spektakulären Paramotor-Gleitschirmflug über die grüne Hügellandschaft. Danach wartet ein besonderes Micro-Abenteuer im Herzen des Ardenner Waldes auf ihn. Beim Packrafting – einer Kombination aus Wandern und Paddeln erlebt er die Natur entlang der Ourthe hautnah.
Bei einer kulinarischen Genussrunde in Namur lernt Ramon die Spezialitäten der belgischen Region kennen. Entlang der Maas führt ihn eine Radtour in das von steilen Klippen umrahmte Dinant. Und im französischen Teil der Ardennen macht er eine atmosphärischen Zeitreise zu einem Mittelalter-Festival rund um die Burg Sedan, die zu den größten Festungen Europas zählt.

Ein Trip in die nahe Hügellandschaft Belgiens und Frankreichs, der mit eini-gen Überraschungen aufwartet. Spektakuläre Outdoor-Erlebnisse, eine spannende kulturelle Vielfalt und besondere Begegnungen mit Menschen aus der Region.

Weniger bergig, aber nicht weniger abenteuerlich ist es in Friesland in den Niederlanden: https://1.ard.de/wunderschoen-friesland?yt=d

00:00 Intro
02:05 Sonnenuntergang im Paraglider
05:10 Wanderung durch Le Hérou
14:43 Packrafting auf der Ourthes
18:10 Flanieren und Genießen in Namur
31:16 Die Brasserie Caracole in Falmignoul
33:51 Mit dem Rad entlang der Maas
35:50 Pause am Chateau de Dave
40:03 Dinant – Geburtsstadt des Saxophons
47:03 Das Haus der Klangkunst
51:21 Hochseilklettern und Slacklining im Wald
58:57 Durch das Semois-Tal ins Kloster Orval
01:01:15 Trainieren im Chateau Fort de Sedan
01:06:14 Weltkriegs-Gedenken an der Festung Ouvrage la Ferté
01:19:30 Puppentheater in Charleville-Méziéres
01:25:20 Das Mittelalterfest in Sedan
01:28:02 Outro

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► Wunderschön: https://wunderschoen.wdr.de
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“Wunderschön: Die Ardennen – wild und ergreifend” ist ein Film von Christian Schuierer. Die Redaktion haben Margit Höh und Imogen Nabel.
Dieser Film wurde 2025 im Auftrag des WDR & SWR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.

Get ready for a tour of discovery. I’m a little excited. Je suis un peu surexcité, Dominique. Oui, tranquille. – Tranquile, okay. I’m happy. Allez, c’est parti. I’m looking forward to a wonderful adventure in the Ardennes. Let’s go. Bon voyage. * Music * Wow! Woohoo! We fly. – Yes. It’s a feeling of freedom. Incredible. We’re flying over a region that feels like it’s only a stone’s throw away and promises truly exciting travel destinations. In the Ardennes, wild nature meets rich history. The region beckons with outdoor adventures, sometimes pure relaxation and sometimes thrills. Its cities offer extraordinary culinary experiences. (Woman laughs) And cultural highlights of a very special kind. This is so cool, man. The history of the Ardennes invites you on fascinating journeys through time. From the war-torn recent past right through to the Middle Ages. Subtitles: WDR mediagroup GmbH on behalf of WDR * Music * The Ourthe flows down there. There are lots of trees, as you can see. The further south you go in the Ardennes, the denser the forests become. Wow! It’s such a beautiful feeling to be flying over the region with Dominique. It looks pretty much as I imagined. It ‘s green, lots of forest, wild nature, castles and palaces. I think it’s going to be a really beautiful trip. Bienvenue en Ardenne. The Ardennes are a forested mountain range that stretches across three countries: Belgium, Luxembourg and France. An outdoor adventure awaits us in the Ourthe valley. We’ll go deep into the forests and onto the water. We’ll make a culinary stopover in Namur and then follow the Meuse south via Dinant. Around Sedan we go on a historical journey through time. How do you feel when you think of the Ardennes? I feel a great vitality, the hospitality of the people, the beauty of the landscape, the idyllic valleys, the wooded hills, the meadows, the game, the cows. Ah, cows too? Lots of cows, lots of dairy cows, exactly that. And freedom, right? – Yes, lots of freedom. Look, we have the sky all to ourselves. It’s crazy. Look, there’s nothing else here. Just forest, lots of fresh air, and us. Ah, it’s brilliant. * Music * Wonderful. – Wonderful. We’re doing a little special performance. A special performance for Ramon. Mon dieu! * Music * Wow, Dominique. (cheers) Perfect. What an adventure. I don’t think any of my trips has started so beautifully. Now we’ve seen the Ardennes from above at sunset. Now I’m looking forward to exploring the region. The wild nature and the history of this region. Thank you Dominique. Thank you Ramon, thank you very much, thank you very much. Arduinna, the Celtic goddess of the forest, is the namesake of the Ardennes. Her homeland, a mystical forested mountain range steeped in legends. We’ll immerse ourselves in this magical natural setting with Julian, an outdoor guide. It’s going to be a special adventure. What we need is hidden in our backpacks. Julian, where are we going? – A surprise. A surprise? – Yes. One of the most breathtaking viewpoints we have in Belgium. – Okay. That sounds like a highlight right from the start. We’re in an area called Le Hérou. It’s located in a nature reserve along the Ourthe River. * Music * I want to show you that Belgium isn’t just flat land. There are some very impressive cliffs in the Ardennes. They’re rolling hills that you can see here. You have to be athletic here, right? – Exactly. This is a fantastic experience for hiking enthusiasts. Wow, what a great view. – Yes, it’s breathtaking. * Music * That’s the Ourthe River? – Yes. Here you can see the river’s windings. We hike down to check the water level. It fluctuates depending on the season. We have to see if we can switch to the packraft here. Do we have boats in here? Exactly, small enough to fit in the backpack. It’s not particularly heavy. Perfect for outdoor enthusiasts to reach remote areas via rivers and lakes. Alright. I’m very excited. – Great. Wow. Wow, man, it’s rough. Exactly, breathtaking. – Yes. * Music * Julian keeps saying, it’s breathtaking, and he’s right, it’s a breathtaking setting here. With the rugged rocks, the beautiful landscape. You just have to not be afraid to hike here. You have to be athletic. * Music * Man, this is real climbing here. – Yes. You have to earn the beautiful view. You have to climb. – Yes. Wow. * Music * I like to get up early and come here at 5 a.m. with a cup of coffee. You can then watch the mist drift over the trees. A legendary landscape with dense forests, the river, the cliffs, the rocks. Everything is pure here. One of the most iconic places in Belgium. That’s why the Ardennes are truly impressive. It’s the place where I find peace and recharge my batteries. It has such a mystical touch. Yes, exactly, when you see the fog, you can imagine that the country has fascinated many cultures. Nature has inspired legends. It is often said here that a legend lies hidden beneath every stone. I want to share that with people. Thank you so much. – My pleasure. * Music * Be careful, it gets rocky. Julian, what are you doing to me? – A real adventure. Yes, it is a real adventure. – Exactly. Experiencing nature like this is impressive. You constantly have to switch between grabbing the rope and using the spider technique. * Music * In Germany we say, not for the faint of heart. So, now we are at the Ourthe. – Thank you, that is refreshing. The Ourthe valley is truly an enchanting area. – Wow. Vegetation as far as the eye can see. But look, I don’t think so. The water level fluctuates with the seasons. It’s too low for packrafting. Because we’d get stuck in the boat? – Exactly. That’s a shame, because the Ourthe is actually one of the most water-rich rivers in the Ardennes. But there’s a plan B. We’ll hike further upstream. Our destination is a reservoir. The water level there should be high enough for packrafting. Wow. – Yeah. In Germany we call that… – Gorse. Yes. You know that? – Yes. In French we say genêt. Okay. Nice. – Yeah. That looks impressive. – That’s the lake. Is it a lake or a river? – It’s many things at once. Perhaps it’s a place where the eastern and western Ourthe flow together. A silent, powerful place, and somehow magical. It inspired two artists to create a sculpture. It is intended to express the special significance of this place. The Avolare sculpture marks the confluence of the Ourthe’s two source rivers. It also represents the bow of a ship, symbolizing the strength and energy of this place. We’ll paddle in that direction in our packraft. Looks promising. But first, let’s take a little break. Ah, over there? – Yeah. Bon appétit. – Thank you. You speak a little German. – A little. I learned German at school. And part of my family comes from Germany… – Ah, yes. Near Saarbrücken. – Okay. My grandmother… My mother’s mother lives here. I’m not that fluent in German. It’s better to speak English. We can speak in English. But that’s interesting. Have you been to Germany yet? I’ve been to Germany many times. Two of my favorite destinations are the Allgäu and the Black Forest. Places I often visited with my parents as a child. I have the feeling that a few decades ago it would n’t have been so natural for Germans to come to the Ardennes. Do you think there are still any reservations? I don’t think so. We all share the same values ​​on the same continent. The landscapes simply transcend borders. And it’s time to come together and have an intercultural dialogue. That’s the best thing we can do. Nice words. Here’s to the future. To the future. * Music * Are you ready to go on the lake with a packraft? – Of course. First we have to get the boats ready. The question is, how? Try to catch some air. Then close it quickly and force the air into the packraft. Try again. – Yeah, thank you. That’s a very cool tactic. How long does it take? A few minutes. It depends on who’s doing it. If you want to go faster, we can use the electric pump. Of course, you have an electric one. You carry that with you all the time, right? But you let me catch the air. Let’s see who’s faster. Now I want to do it like this. * Music * Off we go onto the Ourthe. Sit now. Great. I’m going to join you. – Okay, thank you very much. It just about worked. Yeah, perfect. Nice. It’s very sensitive. It reacts immediately. It’s impossible to go overboard and capsize. Impossible? Is it that stable? If you go overboard, it’s only because you try to. * Music * Actually, I’m glad we’re on the lake and not on the river because it’s so peaceful and quiet here. That’s why I like this landscape so much. The green hills and the flowers in spring, like a beautiful painting. And we’re in the middle of nowhere. Just to enjoy. – Yeah, absolutely. * Music * Do you know what else you can do on the lake? Have a beer. – Have a beer? On the boat? – On the boat. Cheers. Thank you for this great start. Prost. Santé. – Santé. * Music * After so much nature, we throw ourselves into city life. We’re off to the northern edge of the Ardennes, to Namur. And it’s all about food. The capital of the Belgian region of Wallonia has around 110,000 inhabitants and lies at the confluence of the Meuse and Sambre rivers. It’s considered a center of pleasure. We have a rendezvous with a woman who wants to introduce us to these pleasures, and we’ve arranged to meet at the citadel. By the golden turtle, a symbol of Namur. The artist called his work “The Search for Utopia.” Sounds like a good meeting place. Bonjour Valérie. – Bonjour Ramon. It’s a pleasure to meet you. Bienvenue. In Belgium, that’s just a kiss. – A kiss? Oh. For the holidays, we do three. But only for the holidays. For a new year, birthdays. But every day, that’s just a kiss. – 1. Lesson learned. Are you from Namur? I’m French, but I’m in love with Namur. I married a Belgian. I stayed in Namur and never returned to France. Then I’m looking forward to exploring your city with you. Exactly, it’s a culinary city. We have a lot to discover. We’re walking through the impressive citadel. Our path leads along the fortress walls across the centuries. We’re here in the medieval part of the citadel. We’re going to the Renaissance part. The citadel is 2,000 years of history. 2,000 years old. – Exactly. Once a military stronghold, the citadel is now primarily a park for the Namurois, the inhabitants of Namur. And of course, an attraction for tourists. With a great panorama and a sprawling labyrinth of underground passages. But we want to go down into the city and take the cable car. The cable car connects the citadel with Namur’s old town. It’s a beautiful view. Valérie works at the city’s tourist office and tells me that only about 6% of visitors come from Germany. But why so few, when I look at the pretty streets here? Is it Namur or Namür? – In French, Namür. But for the Germans, I like to say Namur, because amour means love. That sounds good. And you have a love for the city too. – Exactly. I’m crazy about Namur and for me it’s the most beautiful city in the world. In the middle of the most beautiful city in the world lies the Place Marché aux Légumes, the former vegetable market. We are here in the oldest square in Namur. This is where the people of Namur come for a drink. We don’t go to the rivers, we come to the city to enjoy ourselves with friends. You don’t sit by the water, you’re always in the city. Exactly, that’s a secret. What is also a secret, by the way, is Valérie’s first culinary destination. This is my favorite shop here. – Aha. Bonjour. – Bonjour. It smells very good. – It smells very good, yes. There is plenty to eat and enjoy, all from the Ardennes. For example, Ardennes ham is my favorite. Le Jambon des Ardennes, c’est du bon. So, can we try some? – Of course. Would you like to try some ham? – With pleasure. And cheese too? – Of course. Oh, look, it’s fumé, did you say? That means it’s smoked. – Yes. Thank you. – Thank you, nice. And for you? It’s magnificent. – Yes. Tastes great. Strong, smoky flavor. – Yes. Not so salty. Very delicious, very good. We also have Trappist cheese. It’s very famous in the region. It’s not just beer, but also cheese. Thank you, beaucoup. – Thank you. Is that Trappist cheese? – Yes, from the Orval Abbey. Man, you guys live in paradise here. – Yes, exactly. And that’s why I feel so good in Namur. You really are a connoisseur. – Yes. Those were a few delicious amuse-bouches. I’m looking forward to more. A few steps further on, we meet two Namur originals: D’Joseph and Francwès, the deaf teacher. He hears with his ear? – Yes, he is deaf. And here, this is Francwès. He’s cheerful and also a connoisseur. – Yes, he likes to eat. And you see, that’s the snail. And Francwès asks D’Joseph, why did you put your snail in a cage? You idiot, do as I did. Put it on the leash, and then you’ll pull, pulled. Slowness, that’s typical of Namur. The snail is the symbol of the city. And that’s a way of life, taking your time and enjoying it. You can also touch the antennae. Of the snail? – Yes, that brings luck. That brings luck? – Yes. Finding happiness in Namur. Snail, that’s not just a symbol, it’s also a delicacy in our region. Would you like to try it? – I don’t know. Is it good? Yes, it tastes quite good. – Really? – Yes. Then let’s try it, gladly. If they don’t run away from us first. Valérie takes us to a specialty restaurant where they’re supposed to serve the little creatures. Bonjour. – Bonjour. Oh, it’s so chic here. It’s lovely. – Please. Do they have the specials here? – Exactly. That’s the snail, first for appetizer. And then there’s another surprise. Maybe you can do what you see. – There’s a pig hanging up there. And what do you see on the pig in the first one? The snout. – Yes. How? – A specialty from here, the pig’s snout. Really? – Yes. You eat pig’s snout here? Yes, Dominique is famous for preparing this platter. People come from far and wide to eat here and try pig’s snout. Okay, crazy. And it tastes pretty good. Will you eat with me too? – We share. We share our snails and our pig’s snout. * Music * Thank you. It’s pain and beer. Now for the beer. Caracol means snail in Walloon. We speak French, but there is a dialect. And that is Walloon. Oh, here we go. – Thank you. Namurese-style snails. – Oh wow. It smells very good. Really. Wow. You champagne. Like champagne. – Ah, yes, yes, voilà. What’s the point? It’s gone. Bon appétit et à votre santé. – Thank you. You have your strong beer. Now we can try it. Santé. – Cheers. Wow, strong. – Quite sweet. Sweet, but also strong. – For me it’s sweet. For you it’s sweet and normal. Quite strong. You really have to be careful. Luckily we’re in Namur and we’re drinking nice and slowly. Like escargots, like snails. Hey, bon appétit. – Bon appétit. They’re snails, those are snails. – Exactly. I’m very excited. Mmm, it’s great. Very fine. I always thought it tasted a bit like fish or the sea. Great. A good specialty. Your passport is French, but your heart is Belgian. Walloon and also from Namur. I fell in love with Namur. The city is humane. The buildings are not too tall. Everything is built humanely and very smart and chic. And the people of Namur. – The people here. We are tolerant, and we say, compromis à la belge. We live side by side with different cultures. And here’s the famous pig’s snout. Voilà. That’s not true. As a joke, we garnished the nose with a French fry. It’s all edible. Enjoy your meal. – Thank you. That’s a bit of a challenge, I think. That’s a challenge. You don’t eat that every day in Namur. – No? It’s really a specialty. Wow. I don’t usually like offal and such. But I’ll give it a try. – But it tastes good. Snout with sauce. Yes. Yes. It’s soft. – Soft. Very fatty. – Exactly. It has a very strong flavor. Not every day in Namur, but as an exception, as a specialty. It’s definitely a special culinary experience. But hey, that’s why we’re here. I have a plan tomorrow. I want to cycle from here to Dinant. – Good idea. You’ll cycle along Wépion. You absolutely have to stop. There are small houses for strawberries to buy. The strawberries from Wépion are the best. Are they the best? – Yes. With these delicious views, our culinary foray into Namur comes to an end. And by the way, the beer we’ll be drinking with our snout and sauce is brewed in Falmignoul, near Dinant. François Tonglet took over the small brewery in 1994 with a friend. François is self-taught. To become a brewer, you have to fall into a glass of beer and never get out. I’ve always been very interested in the wide variety of Belgian beers. They brew their beer the traditional way, in old copper kettles over a wood fire. When we found this brewery, we said, ‘Here, it’s still the same as it was 100 years ago. It would be a shame to tamper with it and put tiles, stainless steel, and machines everywhere. And then there’s a certain nostalgia. They opted for true craftsmanship . instead of industrial mass production. While some people prefer motorboats, we are real sailors. Belgian brewing is impressively diverse, with over 1,600 different types of beer. If we had to characterize Belgians based on their eating habits , we would talk about fries and beer. And maybe finish with a piece of chocolate. Beer is a major symbol of Belgian culture. And is even part of UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage. * Music * The next day we hop on our bikes. We follow the Meuse Cycle Route upstream. It stretches over 1,000 km from its source in France to its mouth in the Netherlands. A short stretch is enough for us today. The route from Namur to Dinant is about 30 km along the Meuse. And I think this will be a really beautiful bike ride through the Meuse Valley. Wonderful. Our tour takes us through picturesque towns like Wépion and Profondeville. Past the water gardens of Annevoie to Dinant, where musical discoveries await us. * Music * Now I’m in Wépion and I can already see the first strawberry stands that Valérie told me about. Here’s one. There’s another one up ahead. I’ll go straight for those. Bonjour madame. I heard they have the best strawberries in the world here. Absolutely. – Really? Yes, really. – And why is that? The soil in Wépion is made for strawberries. Okay. Merci beaucoup. Wow. Trés bon. They taste really good. Nice and sweet, with a strong flavor. They’re nice and cold, which is just the thing in this heat on a bike ride. Merci madame. Six euros. Merci. * Music * Bonjour. Bonjour. Bonjour. Just saw, it’s still 22 km to Dinant. I’ve got those great strawberries in my bag here. I’ll take a quick break opposite the little castle and treat myself to another one. It looks like we’re not alone here. Bonjour monsieur. Do you speak English? – Yeah. Nice to meet you. My name is Ramon. My name is Clivio. I’m from Rome, but I live in Belgium. You’re from Rome? – Yes, indeed. (speaks Italian) No, rather not. My Italian isn’t good. I’m not sure if I speak your language. Where are you from? – I’m from Germany. This is my first time in the Ardennes , and I bought some strawberries here in Wépion. We can share if you like. – No, thank you, I’m fine. But a good choice. And you’re very well known, aren’t you? Not just here; people know you all over Belgium. I come from a sunny country, and I can say that you really are very tidy. Help yourself. – Thank you very much. So you came here from Rome? Yes, I moved with my family in 2014. Clivio moved to Belgium for his job as an aeronautical engineer. He often comes to the Meuse Valley to relax and cycle. He knows our route very well. Even if the paths are flat, it’s not that easy. It’s 40 km there and back. A nice challenge. Unless you have an e-bike. No, I have a regular one. I prefer a more sporty approach. I cheat a bit. I do have an e-bike, but I only use the assistance a little. Because of my age. If you’re from Rome, you’re used to beautiful landscapes, right? Exactly, but I really love Belgium. The people here are also very friendly. Exactly, very friendly and open. As if they have a southern temperament. It doesn’t feel like you’re in the north of Europe here. We’re further north than Paris. I’ll give you the strawberries. Maybe you can take them home. and bring your wife a few. Yes, yes. It’s a pleasure for me. Have a nice day. See you next time. Enjoy. – Enjoy. * Music * Salut. Bonjour. There they are again, these typically characteristic rugged cliffs here in the Ardennes. It looks a bit like the beginning of our journey along the Ourthe. But we are on the Meuse. And up ahead is the pretty little town of Profondeville. It’s really wonderful here. For anyone who wants to explore the Meuse Valley on foot, it’s worth starting in Profondeville. Like we did, you could just cycle along the river. But the ridge path above the Meuse loop is particularly attractive. With magnificent views. 30 km is not easy. I’m about two-thirds of the way there now. There are about 10 km left to Dinant. And just before that it gets really beautiful again. The water gardens of Annevoie are very close to our route. We take a short detour to catch our breath. * Music * The gardens were laid out in the mid-18th century and are perfect for a stroll. Beautiful and unique in all of Belgium. After a few more kilometers, the destination of our tour lies before us. We reach Dinant. Wow, awesome. It looks incredibly impressive. Almost like a fairytale setting. I’m really looking forward to exploring Dinant, because it’s supposed to be a particularly musical city. * Music * Musicality characterizes the cityscape. Saxophones everywhere. No wonder; the inventor of the instrument, Adolphe Sax, was born here. We meet someone who is a true saxophone expert. Bonjour Alain. – Good day. It’s an honor for me to meet you. C’est un honneur de vous rencontrer. Because I heard you’re the best saxophonist in Belgium. No, no, no. No, I’m the oldest saxophonist in Belgium. I’m a very happy saxophonist in Belgium. And that I live in Dinant. It’s a dream for a saxophonist, to live in the city of Sax. Is he Adolphe Sax, right? – Yes, that’s our Adolphe Sax. He’s something of a symbol of this city. – Absolutely. Alain shows me why he became a symbol in the Adolphe Sax House. Sax was born in 1814, the son of a wind instrument maker. He was a tinkerer and inventor, driven by an idea. He wanted to invent an instrument that would sound as powerful as a wind instrument and yet as warm and smooth as a string instrument. And he succeeded. With the saxophone named after him. A new sound and a revolution. The saxophone is conquering the world, especially through jazz. Au revoir, Adolphe. – Au revoir. Next, Alain wants to show us a landmark of the city: the Collégiale Notre Dame. It was built in the 13th century in the Meuse Gothic style. The basilica impresses not only architecturally, but also with its sacred art. Beautiful. Just around the corner awaits the most impressive work of art in the Collégiale. One of the largest church windows in Europe. That’s fantastic. – Very special. It was created by the Belgian glass artist Gustave Ladon and depicts scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary. Like almost everything in Dinant, even this church has a connection to the saxophone. The finals of the International Adolphe Sax Competition take place here . An event that brings the crème de la crème of classical saxophonists to Dinant every four years. Alain is one of the judges. I think the acoustics here are very good. – Yes, the acoustics are very good. We can hear everything. That’s very good for the jury. That’s not good for the candidates, but for the jury, yes. Wow. That was beautiful. Do you want to try playing the saxophone? I’ve wanted to play the saxophone my whole life. I’ve never done it before. I’d like to try. – We can try it now. We don’t have to start with the whole saxophone, we have to start with the mouthpiece. The lips, a little bit in. – Mhm. And… On the teeth. – Mhm. And… Okay, I’ll take that in my hand. – Yes. A little more. Yes, a little more. And… Bravo! First time. It sounds a bit like a car horn. Yes, but that’s normal. We’re going to try it out with the saxophone. Now I’m excited. It worked reasonably well with the mouthpiece, but getting a sound out of a large saxophone, we’ll see. It’s such a great instrument. Everything is so delicate. Which doesn’t necessarily make it easier. Right away, you’ll need a delicate touch. Okay. Lips like this? – Yes. Close. *off-key notes* Okay, you blow. And I play. – Okay. With Alain’s help, it’ll work out quite well. There. Very good. Yes, very good, student for me. Yes, then I’ll come to you in Dinant. Welcome. – Thank you very much, Alain. Merci. * Music * Dinant really is a picture-perfect town and has a lot to offer beyond the saxophone. You could stroll along the Croisette or take a boat trip on the Meuse. We’ll continue our musical journey of discovery. To the House of Pataphonie, to immerse yourself in unusual worlds of sound. * Flute music * Wow, bonjour Michel. – Welcome. Enchanté. Thank you very much. This place, the House of Pataphonie. What is Pataphonie? Pataphonie is a land of the imagination where I make music with all sorts of things. By all sorts of things, Michel means everyday objects that are transformed into unusual instruments. The House of Pataphonie is full of them. Michel has been looking after the collection for over 20 years. He invites his visitors to embark on a journey with him into the world of sounds. Wow. Let’s try something out. I’ll play a beat and you make the melody. – Yes. Yep. Hey man, crazy. It’s like a big playground for musicians and sound enthusiasts. Yes, absolutely. But you don’t have to be a musician to come to the House of Pataphonie. Anyone can come. – Absolutely. If you’d like to come, you should register in advance. * Music * * slow tone * * faster tones * Let’s try. How do you tune? Also by the strength of… Yeah, the longer… – Ah, the longer. * faster tones * Do it. * fast tones * Yep. This is so cool, man. I’m trying to play Bach. You do it better than me. I’m going to lose my job because of you. It’s so crazy that the flowerpots and the bottles just sound like that. And we can play Bach on a piano, but we can’t play it on the piano. Thank you, Michel. If you’re looking for a thrill, you’ll find it right near Dinant. A climbing park in an old quarry. We’re at dizzying heights with Daphné. Looking down is crazy. The steps get longer and longer. Chez nous, on dit que quand c’est trop facile, c’est pas rigolo. She says if it’s too easy, it’s no fun. That’s why they left out the wooden slats. But the view is very beautiful. Yes, incredible, beautiful. That’s the Meuse over there, isn’t it? – Exactly. Perhaps we can take a short break here. Perhaps we’ll have an aperitif. – Yes, exactly. A wine, a beer. A good beer. Jambon, cheese. (laughs) (laughs hysterically) Oh dear. Daphné, Daphné, are you wrong. Combien de meters? – Here it is, 60 m. 60 m. It goes down 60 meters, kids. I’m sweating profusely under my blue shirt. My dear singing club. But it’s cool. On arrival. Awesome feeling. Awesome feeling. Thank you, Daphné. It was very cool. – It was super. You did it. I’m sweating a lot too. I’m definitely sweating from fear. Wow, that was pretty crazy. It goes down pretty deep too. That was just the beginning, the easiest part. The easiest part? – Now comes the death ride. What’s the name? Death ride? – Death ride. Death ride? Is it possible to survive that? – Normally, yes. (trembling) Ah. Adrenaline in the Ardennes. Are you ready, Ramon? – Not. Whenever you want. Just go. Just go down into the abyss. Let’s go. Bye. (screams) Oh God. Oh God. Now… Now everything is shaking. It was fun. * Music * Wow. Next time you’ll do it like that too. Super cool. But that’s still not all. The final boss is still waiting. And we’re on our way there. You’re very attached to your hometown, Daphné, aren’t you? Yes, I really like this area. My heart beats for it. Why is that? – I love nature. I like the beautiful views, the beautiful rocks with the rivers, the water. I can’t get enough of it. Really? – Yes, really. So you’re staying here? – Yes, I’m staying. For the rest of your life? – For life. You seem to me like someone looking for adrenaline. Yes, I really like it when I feel my heart beating. Nature and adrenaline. – Yes, and adrenaline. And why do you love thrills so much? Personally, when I do something crazy, I sometimes tell myself it’s madness. And then I tell myself, I love it, I love it. And they are lasting memories. Then this is the perfect place for you, isn’t it? Exactly. And then it comes, the final boss. The jump into the abyss. You will survive. I need to keep my job. Of course, he has to keep his job. Okay, ready? – I don’t know. I’ll just say a quick goodbye to Daphné. It was a pleasure to meet you. Thank you for coming along and for your good mood. And I’m sure you’ll manage everything. Thank you, see you soon. So I hope so. I believe in it. Oh. And now you can lean forward all the way. Okay, perfect, and you stay like that for ten minutes. This goes so far against my instinct to look down here. My whole life I’ve always thought I absolutely wanted to go bungee jumping. And now I’m standing here and it feels totally wrong. My heart is pumping incredibly hard. So, right hand on the ropes. – Oh, man. Trust me, Ramon, trust me. Okay, I will try to trust you. – Yes. I will count down from three to one, and on one you jump. Maybe you can see it. I’m scared to death right now. That was all child’s play before. This is the real deal. Three, two, one, jump. Oh my God! (cheers) Oh, that’s crazy. Holy cow. What kind of feeling is that? (laughs) Now I’m going. The swinging, that’s fine. But that first moment when I fall down… Oh, oh, oh. I’ve never felt anything like that before. It’s completely crazy. I don’t know if I would recommend it to everyone. At first I thought that was it. Oh, oh, oh. What an adventure. An adventure in the Ardennes, really. Oh God. * Music * The next morning we leave Dinant and head south. Now we’re off to the French Ardennes. I’m particularly looking forward to that because I think a very special journey through time awaits me there. Our route takes us from Dinant through the Semois Valley. A detour to Orval Abbey is also worthwhile. Our destination is Sedan in the French Ardennes department. After just under an hour, we reach the Semois River. It flows through the border region between Belgium and France. Its valley was declared a national park in 2022. An impressive river landscape with breathtaking viewpoints. Like the view of the small village of Frahan. * Music * A few kilometers further upstream is the legendary Giant’s Grave. A gigantic Celtic warrior is said to be buried here. On the edge of the Semois National Park, in the middle of an idyllic valley, lies the Trappist monastery of Orval. The abbey looks back on a 900-year history. Seven monks still live in this religious community. Orval is one of the most popular destinations in the Ardennes. But many come not only for the impressive ruins, but also to try a special beer, the famous Trappist beer. It is brewed within the monastery walls and is a tradition kept alive by the monks. * Music * I’m in Sedan now. It’s a small town but with a big history, and the city is especially famous for its fortress. The Chateau Fort Sedan is one of the largest fortifications in Europe. Built in 1424, it was continually expanded over the centuries. Sedan’s strategic location on the edge of the Ardennes aroused desire , and not only in the Middle Ages. The city plays a particularly important role in Franco-German history . The French voted the château their favorite monument in 2023. This is certainly also due to the large medieval festival that takes place here every year. We have an appointment with Gauthier, an acrobat who will be performing at the festival with his troupe. Bonjour les deux. – Hey. C’est Ramon. – Eveline. – Enchanté. Gauthier. – Enchanté. You’re very tall. – And you’re very short. You’re preparing for the medieval festival here. – That’s right. Aha, and that’s why the stilts? Stilts are circus equipment and were used even before the Middle Ages. Ah, for the children? – For big children too. Can I try them too? – Yes, let’s try it. Then let’s try stilt walking. Okay. We’ll put your pants on you. – Okay. It’s one adventure after another in the Ardennes. I’ll stabilize you. – Okay. Wow, okay. – Voilà. Lift your feet. – Okay. Voilà. Should I spin around you? – Yes, maybe. You just have to look relaxed. Okay. Super cool. Bravo. That’s a sign of trust. Thank you, my friends. Thank you. Bravo to you. Gauthier, why are you fascinated by the Middle Ages? Simply because I come from the Ardennes. I was born right next to the castle in Sedan. And we always went to the medieval festival. That’s where I saw artists putting on shows for the first time. And that inspired me to try it myself. A little anecdote. When we were very small, we crawled into the castle’s underground passages and explored them. But don’t tell anyone, they’re actually locked. So, of course, the Middle Ages and the castle of Sedan came to me. Aha, so normally that’s not allowed. No, but there’s a statute of limitations; it was a long time ago. I’m really looking forward to the festival. I need an assistant for my show. To do what? – Nothing with stilts. No stilts? – No. – Good. I have a little surprise. I won’t tell you. But there might be a bit of a fire. Fire? Okay, we’re curious. There’s a fire this weekend. We’ll talk about a topic that accompanies us on this trip. It’s the relationship with us Germans, in light of a past marked by war. What image do you have of us Germans? I think the past is something that isn’t erased from our memories, but from our minds. Generations have moved on; we no longer hold grudges. Have you ever been to La Ferté? Yes, La Ferté-sur-Chiers. The historical events have left their mark on the landscape. With the Maginot Line still standing and the many forts throughout the department. I’d like to go there. What do you think awaits me there? You’ll see those buildings rising out of the hills. There’s a pretty special atmosphere when you know what happened back then. * Music * Throughout history, Sedan has repeatedly been the scene of bloody battles. The two World Wars in particular left their mark. Anyone who travels to the Ardennes is inevitably confronted with Germany’s past. Throughout the region, many museums and memorials commemorate this historical heritage. One of these places is the Ouvrage La Ferté near Sedan. We meet Roger Schmidt, a German. He has lived in the region for 15 years and has studied La Ferté intensively. To me, it seems like a peaceful landscape, but this was a scene of bloody battles, right? Today, it all looks peaceful. But over the past few centuries, there have been constant battles and wars between Germans and French, between Protestants and Catholics. This area has been contested for 500 years. And that’s why history is an important part of the Ardennes’ identity. After the First World War, France built a defense system along its eastern border, from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. The “Maginot Line” consisted of numerous bunkers and forts like the Ouvrage La Ferté. These were intended to repel attacks from neighboring countries, especially Germany. Then the Second World War broke out. In the spring of 1940, the German western offensive began. In May, the Wehrmacht crossed the Meuse near Sedan. On the morning of May 15, the first Germans arrived in front of the village of Villy. That’s the village you see down in the valley. The Germans decide to attack the factory. You can still see the traces on the armored domes. Are those bullet holes up ahead? – Exactly. During the attack, the Germans fire artillery directly at the observation dome. They get a lucky hit. A shell ricochets off the concrete and hits the notch. And it does so right here. That kills the three soldiers on the crew of this dome. It’s an important point in the history of the factory’s fall: the block is blinded during the attack because the observation dome is disabled. During our visits, you can follow the traces of the attack to understand what happened here in 1940. The facility consists of two blocks, more than 200 meters apart. We change perspective and follow the traces inside. To your right is the block commander’s office. We come to the anteroom of the armored dome we just saw. Those are probably the beds. – Exactly. The crew works in three shifts. They take turns in the beds. It’s a very cool atmosphere, a bit humid in the air. Yes, we have at least 2.5 meters of concrete above us. Of course, the climate in here was very humid, very cold. We’re now coming to the observation dome we saw from outside. Exactly, it was right here. Go in and take a look. You’re under the dome. In the opening on the right is where the direct hit, the artillery hit, was. That killed the two soldiers on the platform. The platform is destroyed, falling on the third. These are the first three soldiers to die during the attack on the factory. During the attack, the Germans threw explosives, hand grenades, and smoke bombs inside. They exploded at the bottom of the bell, igniting ammunition stored beneath the bells in 1940. They set the mattresses on the beds ablaze, and everything burned. The crew retreated to the connecting tunnel. Two hours later, exactly the same thing happened in Block 1. Both upper floors of the blocks were burning. And the soldiers were in the underground connecting tunnel , suffocating because no more air was getting in. We’re now going under the factory’s main weapon. A rotary-retractable turret for two combination weapons: anti-tank guns and machine guns. Wow, crazy. Wow. Is everything still original? – It’s all original. We’re on the middle level of the turret. You’re near the turret commander’s position. He stood on this small platform, and the entire turret above the lever could rotate. And the tower commander would turn along with his platform. Why do you know so much? I’ve been giving tours here for 15 years and have read a lot of knowledge. A friend and I wrote a comprehensive book about La Ferté. That means you really have to study the subject matter. But I think it’s exciting that you, as a German, are offering tours here. I think the idea that history has anything to do with nationality is wrong. What happened here is a human tragedy. And it doesn’t matter whether it was French or German. It was a tragedy. And that’s my view of history. We also have a lot of visitors who are following in the footsteps of their grandfathers. They go to the military cemetery in Sedan, for example , and then come here to us. And that is part of our role, to explain what happened here. So that it is not forgotten. Because history may have happened, but it always has an impact on reality. Climb up. Take the handle on the combination weapon, and then you can pull yourself up. By the weapon? – Exactly. – Wow. Okay. You have to imagine, the weapons were installed here under the roof. The gunner sits under the weapon, has his sight, can aim and fire the weapons. During the attack, the Germans blow up the right opening of the turret. They plant a 6-kilo explosive charge. The explosion tears the weapon out of its mount, tears off the weapon mount. And this is the weapon that was blown up, the one you see here. And the turret is neutralized. * Music * There’s something fascinating about it , and at the same time, something incredibly gruesome about it. Of course, the story is that 105 people died here. But when you visit the factory, you can sense what happened here. And that gives a completely different feeling than when you go to a military museum, for example , and see hundreds of rifles. This is actually about soldiers. This is actually about the fact that people died here. That’s the interesting thing you discover in La Ferté, something you see in very few places in France , or even worldwide. To go down, you have to bend your knees, search for the ladder, hold on to your combination weapon, for as long as possible, and as late as possible. ” Hold on to your combination weapon” —that’s a phrase I’ve never heard before. And during the attack on the factory on the evening of May 18, the upper level is ablaze. The crew leaves the block in panic and seeks shelter in the connecting tunnel. We are now in the gallery towards Block 1. It’s 275 meters long. We are at least 25 meters underground. It’s noticeably colder down here. – Yes. Let’s take a look in here. This is where the telephone cables enter. The upper floors of the blocks are burning. The entire crew has sought shelter in the connecting tunnel. And the last message from the factory is from here. On May 19, at 5:39 a.m., the Le Chesnois factory, the neighboring artillery factory, calls here to get an update on the factory’s status. Adjutant Sailly answers the phone, coughing, gasping for air, says, “We can’t breathe anymore, we’re trying to get out. ” This is the last message from the La Ferté factory, May 19, at 5:39 a.m., sent from here. When you tell it like that, it really touches me, I must say. What was going through your mind when you first heard about this radio message, and then you were at this place? Every visit I make here—and I’ve been making visits for 15 years—is an emotional experience. And I try to share that with my visitors. The atmosphere here is so immediately tangible. Yes, and I’ll show you another photo that illustrates this. We’re going in here on the left, into the dressing room. And here on the side you can see a German photo taken by the Germans when they descended into the gallery. You can see the bodies here. The photo you just saw was taken in this place. * Music * And what do we learn from this? War means death. What do you hope visitors take away from their visit? An understanding of what happens in wars. In our society. We have lived in peace for many decades, and we have forgotten what it is to experience war. La Ferté is capable of doing just that. With traces that lead far into the past and yet evoke the horror of war, making it uncannily present. The brutality is still palpable. A truly impressive journey through time. We jump back to the present, to Charleville-Mézières. The town is considered the world capital of puppetry. It was founded in 1606 by Duke Charles I and laid out according to a strictly symmetrical plan. At its center lies the magnificent Place Ducale. What time are they coming? – I don’t know. Are they coming from this way? This direction? Or from this direction? Bonjour Narguess. – Bonjour. Are you the Germans? – Yes. I am Le Beau. – Le Beau. I’m Ramon. Sorry, he always pushes in front. (Le Beau) Don’t mind if you say something. I’m Narguess. Unfortunately I can’t shake your hand. I’m very happy to be here. But who am I looking at? Am I looking at you or at you? I am Le Beau, which means The Handsome One. So go ahead and look at me, and every now and then you can look at her too. I will try to talk to you. Charleville holds a magical attraction for puppeteers like Narguess . One of the reasons, perhaps the most important, is the largest puppet theatre festival in the world. The Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes takes place every two years, always in September. For a week, the whole of Charleville is transformed into a giant stage for puppeteers from all over the world. Over 150,000 visitors flock to the town to see the more than 400 performances. Hey, and when the festival is on, your brothers and sisters come. My cousins, my friends, the whole family, all the puppets and puppeteers. Le Beau has a personal request. He wants to show us his birthplace: the National School of Marionette Arts. Here we go. Hello, open. Bonjour tout le monde. Voilà. Puppets are made here. Now we’re going to see something interesting. And their players are trained. The students spend three years learning how to breathe life into a wide variety of puppets. What seems so playful and poetic here, we can now try out for ourselves. Hello. – Hello. I call Ramon. – I call Prunille. Hello Prunille. How are you? – How are you? How are you very good. Have you ever animated a puppet? I would love to try it sometime. You have to put the legs in there. – Okay. With your left hand. Here? Four fingers up, all the way through. Done. Hello ladies and gentlemen. We are not allowed to see you. Hello in the Ardennes, ladies and gentlemen, welcome to. Beautiful. This is a very special puppet. – Very special? Why is it very special? Because it is one of the few puppets where the player’s body is used. Normally, as a player, you disappear completely. Here you are partly part of the play yourself. A bit like acting. Exactly, but not with your whole body, just with one part. The upper part? – Exactly. It must take a long time to learn, right? Yes, because you have to divide your body. You have to understand that the upper part doesn’t exist, only the lower part. The world of puppets, fascinating and diverse. Just like the techniques used to play them. * Music * So for me, it’s like Elvis. It looks like Elvis. ? One for the money, two for the show… Don’t you step on my blue suede shoes. ? Oh, there’s a camera. I thought I’d disappeared. It’s quite exhausting. Especially giving the character a personality and thinking about what the character’s personality is. It takes a long time to get used to. 3 years of training, that makes sense. So, au revoir. We return to Sedan, to the medieval festival. A lively celebration awaits us with lots of music and strange costumes. This year’s motto: “Creatures and Legends.” We also meet an old acquaintance. Wow. Est-ce que ca va? – Hey. Gauthier, ca va? Ca va très bien? – Ca va, ca va. I’m excited because you said there’s going to be a fire today. Yes, that’s true. Gauthier needs an assistant for something involving fire. But there’s no sign of that yet. And then it’s time. So, my friend, Ramon, please let it rip. Come on. Bonjour, bonjour. We’re doing a rehearsal. A little test throw. A round of applause for Ramon. The dress rehearsal went really well. Merci beaucoup. Now it’s getting serious. We’ll only throw one. And if I can catch it, I’ll take all three. You’re sure, right? – Yes, very sure. Okay, Ramon, the first one. Two. Three. Excuse me, one more time? Go ahead, one more time. Three. * Applause * I thought for a moment, he’s starting to catch fire. Let’s watch his show instead. He’s better at it than I am. * Music * It’s time to say goodbye. To Gauthier, to the festival, and also to the Ardennes. I am incredibly impressed by this region and by the wonderful people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting here. At first, I wasn’t sure how I would be received here as a German tourist, especially because of the history. But I have the feeling we’re very welcome to explore nature, to experience wild adventures, to enjoy ourselves, and also to take a trip back in time like this one. Thank you, the Ardennes and soon. Sure, it’s just a stone’s throw away from us, right? Copyright WDR 2025