EASTERN SPAIN – Solo Bikepacking the World #13

From May 2022 until June 2024, I went on a 41,500km solo bicycle journey around the world, that took me through 26 countries.

This is the third episode from Europe, as I travel through Eastern Spain, through the autonomous communities of Murcia, Valencia, and Catalonia.

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Route Map:
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/52446233

Gear List:

0:00 Intro
0:49 Quiet coastal roads
2:41 Night pass
3:35 Sierra de las Moreras
4:47 Across the plain to Murcia
6:46 Segura river
7:45 Camino del Cid
8:44 Bike problems in Elche
9:54 Peaceful riding on the camino
12:08 Via verde Xixarra night ride
13:08 Bocairente through the countryside
15:23 Albufera natural park
16:30 Into Valencia
18:30 Via verde Xurra
20:35 Via verde del Mar
23:12 Ebro delta
24:22 Tarragona
25:23 Sunny day into Barcelona
27:11 Barcelona
28:11 Drizzly day
29:55 Costa Brava
31:39 Over a fantastic pass
32:25 Girona
33:01 Watchtower
33:56 Foothills

I’ll never get tired of waking up in places like 
this. The hushed soundof gentle waves, a warm breeze from the sea, the sun cresting over the 
horizon, washing the landscape in golden light. After a wonderful night beneath the full moon 
at this magical beach temple near Carboneras,   I was off to ride North 
along Spain’s Eastern coast. An empty switchback road brought me winding high 
into otherwise untouched hills. From the top at  the Mirador de la Granatilla, I waved a last 
goodbye to my camp fading into the distance. Following the coastal road 
on the eurovelo 8 route,   I drifted through quiet beach towns, coastal 
farmland, and cliffs overlooking the ocean, officially making the entrance into 
the autonomous community of Murcia. As the light began to turn golden, I passed the 
cliffs of Cabo Cope and the town of Calabardina, before entering a long plain of farmland, 
and towards the final pass of the day. Just after sunset. And, I gotta go over these mountains. From the summit of the pass at about 
400m, dusk settled over the coast. The rising moon shone in the distance, reflecting 
on a sea of greenhouses in the plain below. Although it would have been spectacular wild 
camping at the top, I didn’t have enough water   to stay the night, so I peacefully freewheeled 
back down to the beautiful coast for the night. An incredible sunrise brought light onto the 
Sierra de las Moreras.   On peaceful gravel road, through scrubland and palms, I made my way through the park. Arriving in the town of Bolnuevo, the landscape 
became punctuated by eroded sandstone cliffs and hoodoos with the most striking formation known 
as the Ciudad Encantada, the enchanted city. The eurovelo route left the coast behind, and 
after crossing a small pass, I diverted from   the route, to shortcut North towards Murcia, 
propelled along the plain by perfect tailwinds. The afternoon slipped by on quiet roads beneath 
greying skies, a stretch of total serenity. Climbing gently out of the plain, I rejoined with 
the eurovelo, crossing a small pass at the Puerto del Garruchal and descended down a spectacular 
canyon into the dusk, to the city of Murcia. I arrived in the city as the last pinks of sunset faded from the sky,   then settled in for two nights of rest at a hostel. Murcia was a beautiful city, full of wonderful nature and architecture, but with the sun shining above, the road called once more, and it was time to head out again, along the banks of the Segura river. So I’ve just left Murcia, had a mid day today, after two nights of rest there. Now I’ve got this bike path for about 50km today, alongside the river. Yeah! This is the good life today. That’s for sure. After 20km along the river, I made a last minute change at the town of Orihuela.   Leaving the Eurovelo behind, I began to follow the Camino del Cid. This route traverses more than 2000km across Spain, following the account of the legendary 11th century medieval knight El Cid, as written in the Poem of El Cid. The route is well marked and mapped, and has options for traveling by foot, bike, or vehicle. All while exploring incredible landscapes and historical towns. In the town of Elche, I passed through part of the Palmeral,   a vast collection of date palm groves around the city, originally planted in the Roman era, now a Unesco world heritage site. In the Elche area alone, there are more than 200,000 palms. Heading out of the city at sunset, I rode into the Vinalopo river valley.   Leaving the paved roads behind, a big bike mechanical began to show. My drive train was infrequently skipping, and causing an uncomfortable grating noise. Hoping to diagnose the problem at camp, 
I carried on carefully to my planned camp spot. A beautiful overlook above the valley, on a 
flat gravel platform at the site of an old quarry. This spot was a real treasure. Remarkably 
close to the city, yet so serene, it felt like a hidden secret world I couldn’t  solve the mechanical issues with my bike,   but under the night sky, in such a spectacular place, I didn’t mind. In the morning I had two options for bike shops. 5km back to Elche,   or 5km forward to the smaller town of Aspe. At 
least in Spain, bike mechanics are never far away. I chose the direct route forward, pushing the 
bike over a short hiking and mountain bike trail,   before freewheeling down into Aspe to visit the mechanic. The issue is that the drive ring inside the rear hub is worn in the centre. And, welp. The rear hub needs to be replaced. So I either need to get a wheel rebuilt, or a new rear wheel entirely. So. I can at least pedal right now without grinding it out. And I’n gonna try to make it to Valencia. Where hopefully I can find a better proliferation of bike shops and/or wheel builders. Fortunately he was able to provide a temporary 
fix with some pawl changes for the free hub,   but recommended a full hub change as soon as possible. At least I was able to continue on the Camino del Cid, rolling into the evening on quiet roads. From the town of Villena at dusk, I rode 
onto the fantastic Via Verde Xixarra. I always treasure these opportunities to ride 
peaceful paths into the night. Cycling with only the quiet rhythm of the bike, and vast dark expanses of land all around under a starry sky. I was also cycling on the route of the castles 
of Vinalopo. Here in the upper reaches of the river valley several stone fortresses still stand proudly on their hilltops.   Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, to fortify 
the boundaries between different kingdoms, these include the castles of Biar, Villena, and Banyeres. From the town of Bocairent, my morning began with a long descent the road curling gracefully between the walls of a steep gorge following the path of the Clariano river. As the canyon walls opened up near the town of Ontinyent,   the blue waters of the famous Pou Clar swimming holes were revealed. The camino del Cid carried me 
onward through farms and groves,   before passing alongside the Albaida 
river out of the town of Bellus. Here the cliffs hide the Cova Negra, a large 
cave where archaeological remnants of   Neanderthal settlement dating back over 
250,000 years ago, can still be found. In the town of Manuel, a short section of old 
rail line has been reborn as multi use path.   The limestone walls of the previous gorges had 
been replaced with the brick facades of houses, rising above the trail. This is the first 
built section of the Via verde Ribera Costera, with future development in the works to 
link more towns across the countryside. As dusk deepened, I entered into the 
Albufera natural park.   At its heart lies the freshwater lagoon of Valencia, a vital local wetland for fisherman and birds alike. Around the lagoon, vast areas have been converted into rice fields and it was on roads in between these flooded fields that I rode back towards the coast under the stars. A fiery sunrise painted the sky, the skyline 
of Valencia visible on the horizon nearby, and heading out on peaceful path through 
the park, I rode towards the city. Crossing the Turia river, I entered into the city 
of Valencia. This river has been diverted from its original course through the city, following a catastrophic flood in 1957. The original empty riverbed being reborn as the largest urban park in Spain, the Turia garden. stretching over 9km, alive and thriving with cycle and walking paths, 
arts, culture, and recreation facilities. As I waited for a new wheel to be delivered, I 
spent a few days resting and exploring the city.
  I was wowed by the spectacular 
architecture of the Valencia cathedral, construction of which began in the 13th century. 
Marvelling at the religious artifacts inside, including what is purported to be the holy grail. And from the top of the famous El Micalet bell tower I watched the city glow under a spectacular sunset. The City of Arts and Sciences was 
another Valencian wonder.    Bold, futuristic, and unmistakable, the 
complex arises out of the old riverbed, and serves as both a cultural 
landmark and a symbol of Valencia. At last, with a new wheel shipped in, 
it was time to continue the journey. The Via Verde Xurra led me North out 
of the city. Despite the strong winds,   it was a lively ride with blue skies, 
and turning onto country roads as the wind still howled, I pedaled onwards 
through farms and fruit tree groves. Arriving in the beach resort town of 
Benicassim, I spent the night by the coast,   finding peace listening to waves gently crash 
against the rocky shore, as stars shone above. Along this coast stand several 16th century 
watchtowers, built to guard against pirate invasions; Starting my day in the perfect way 
on bike path, I set off along the aptly named   Via Verde del Mar, the greenway of the sea, following rail trail along the coast, between high rock cut walls, past bays with sweeping views of the sea, and through long tunnels. In the Sierra d’Irta natural park, a scenic 
gravel road carried me through quiet forests, and along the coast next to serene pebble beaches, where gentle waves broke against the shore. Back on pavement, I rolled into the fortified city of Peñíscola, crowned by its iconic castle dating 
back to the early 14th century. Strong winds continued to howl into the night,   and in the morning I set off on gravel 
paths across the Ebro river delta. Of rivers on the Iberian peninsula, the Ebro 
ranks second in both length and discharge volume, and I made my crossing of it on 
the Amposta suspension bridge,   which at the time of opening in 1921 
was the largest of its kind in Spain. A network of canals spans the 
delta, and much of the land has   been transformed into agricultural areas 
for fruit, vegetable, and rice production. The rest of the afternoon was spent on 
quiet roads and seaside cycle paths,   enjoying the silence during the 
siesta, under the gentle January sun. On the outskirts of Tarragona, the landscape 
shifted dramatically. Warehouses, factories, and industrial plants stretched on endlessly, 
forcing me onto the highway. But eventually, bike path reappeared, guiding 
me safely into the city. Tarragona is built on the ancient city of Tarraco,   the first and largest Roman settlement 
on the Iberian peninsula. Today, roman ruins remain scattered throughout, 
most notably the 2nd century amphitheatre. By morning, the winds had eased, and 
it was time to take advantage of the incredible weather. cycling along the coast on beachside promenades, between sparkling ocean and 
bustling morning markets. Soon cliffs rose steeply from the shoreline 
once more, the cycle paths disappeared, and I found myself riding the Garraf coastal road. Despite stretches of heavy traffic, the respectful and courteous behaviour of Spanish motorists made the ride quite pleasant. At last, on the outskirts of Barcelona, bike paths resumed. And I followed safe and straightforward routes into Catalonia’s capital and largest city. I spent several days here, simply enjoying the 
city of Barcelona. This city exceeded all my expectations. With its culture, architecture, and well designed and ever expanding cycling network. Of course, I visited the world famous 
Gaudi designed Sagrada Familia,   in its 141st year of construction. This architectural wonder is truly a masterpiece. 
The basilica is like nothing else in the world, and its magical wonder deserves to 
be seen by anyone visiting Barcelona. My evenings were spent exploring viewpoints 
above the city by bicycle, returning to a   welcoming hostel each night, grateful for 
the chance to pause and take it all in. Under drizzly grey skies, 
I rolled out of Barcelona,   following peaceful paths and 
promenades, along the waters edge. Rounding a rocky point under pastel sunset skies,   I passed the Calella lighthouse, 
and into its namesake city. Pushing on for another hour into dusk, along 
palm lined paths whipped by wind,    I found a campsite for the night in the Tordera delta, 
and settled in close to the crashing ocean waves. The geography of the coast began to 
substantially change as I entered the Costa Brava: the “wild coast” stretching all the way to the French border. Long sandy  beaches gave way to dramatic hills, 
forests, and rugged rocky shoreline. In the town of Tossa de Mar, a perfectly preserved   medieval walled city overlooked a golden 
sandy beach framed by rocky headlands. Leaving town on the coastal road, the only 
other traffic seemed to be small groups of   road cyclists out for morning rides, 
and their respective support vehicles. At the small town of Salionc, I left 
the coast of Spain for the last time,   and turned northwards to climb 
up the GIP-6821 road. Switchbacking its way up slowly to nearly 500m. Descending the far side, a breathtaking 
panorama opened up before me: my first glimpse of the distant 
snow-capped Pyrenees mountains. Quiet country roads and paths led me 
onwards through the plain. As the sun set,  I entered the outskirts of the city of GIrona, and on fantastic cycle route, rode into the city. After passing through Girona, I rode another 
30km into the night, to cowboy camp on top   of an old optical telegraph tower. These 
towers were built in the 1850s, and used to transmit information with light signals. Their 
practical use lasted barely a decade, as by 1862, they were all replaced by wired telegraphs. This 
restored tower is still a nice off the beaten path destination, with incredible 360º views of the 
surrounding countryside and Pyrenees mountains. My final morning in Spain was spent on 
quiet rural roads, through small towns,   and on gravel tracks as I rode into the 
foothills of the mountains. And in the quiet town of La Perthus, I departed 
Catalonia, and entered into France.