Bikepacking across the Greek Mountains

This is my second solo trip to Greece. Riding up and down the Greek mountains like a yo-yo offered me new sights away from overtourism, while the elevation profile looked like a serious challenge. Maybe too much, but worth a try. And to satisfy my appetite for history, I made sure to include Dodona, Meteora and ancient Messene.
Enjoy!
Kurt

Music by Epidemic sound

Three weeks and the promise of early summer was all it took to convince me. Avoiding over tourism areas while facing a very ambitious elevation profile were my challenges. They also have to suffice as the hooks required for a good video and good morning. So I got myself a ferry ticket for 9:30. It leaves me like half an hour or so for a coffee. So, here’s the plan. [Music] [Music] Made it onto the ferry. plenty of time to spare despite the fact that I had to go back to the accommodation because I forgot my water pocket. Guess that’s age. [Music] Landscape looks promising. [Music] There a few days cycling from Meteora, but there is already some church or hermitage up on the rock. So after a Greek salad and the chipsy Mimalay and two lemonades, I have a downhill. A journey is always educational. For example, yesterday I learned that it’s called Yuanina and not Yuanina as I always presumed [Applause] [Music] to find the coffee here. Just 20ks outside town ledona, Greece’s oldest oracle. Just imagine some 5,000 years ago, priests sat here under the holy oak translating the rustling of its leaves to answer all the questions of the visitors. Only the eclipsed it, and that perhaps because it was easier to reach. I have to say I like this uranina even though it still has a lot of potential. [Music] And now the climb has started in earnest. I still have about 900 altitude meters for the day. [Music] [Music] You know, I was hoping for a restaurant in that last village. Well, now I still have a lollipop that survived in my handlebar pack for a long, long time. I got to go. [Music] Oh, I got the highest point from now. It’s quite a bit downhill again to that village. [Music] I’ve landed. Sorry for the cable. Wasn’t my idea of fun. My host. I saved Vikos Gorge for the morning light and fresh legs. Carved deep into the Pindos Mountains, it’s the world’s deepest gorge relative to its width. A natural wander embroidered with spring flowers. [Music] I have my halfhour hike out to the viewpoint of the Nikos Gorge and I have to say it was one of the more impressive sites that I’ve ever seen. [Music] Just another nice stone bridge. [Music] No need for an official bicycle lane here. That wasn’t planned, but it does remind me of the Dominican Republic. [Music] Is this the place? [Music] She such a decent car. Oh, it’s still one car per hour. I’m on the road for two. I’m seeing two cars and that’s it. [Music] The pass was a bit of a let down. There’s a house without the name or a kiosk or anything. No view, no sign. But yeah, I’m going down there somewhere. Mountains alive here. [Music] [Music] What a setting. From afar. It looks like an assembly of monoliths, but once you’re among them, you realize it’s a 300 m thick layer of compressed riverbed, beautifully carved by erosion. Every hermit’s dream. Well, the original hermits couldn’t dream of bus loads of tourists showing up for a gawk and a selfie. It’s lovely to be in the plains. It feels big enough for a tractor. Well, a little sentence to over tourism doesn’t happen here. I get waves all along the way. Feels good. It’s a bit early, but it’s a great place for a top up. Thank you. So, Kumut came up with that. Seemingly, it’s workable. I learned in the last village. Might have to push a bit, but it’s shorter than taking the road that goes a long way around. So hey, let’s go. Now it is more river pad, but hey, bit of pushing is fine, too. [Music] [Music] The end of the shortcut. I have to say I’m glad was a hard slug. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Music] When I lock my bicycle beside the hotel, I noticed the scooter next to it. Key still in the ignition. Trust, it seems, still lives in these hills. [Music] What I find most amazing is the emptiness of this mountain area. I mean in Switzerland you’d have 15 villages up where there is forest here. Okay, now I can spot one there. Cool. Spectacular. [Music] Stunning. Even just thanks for building a road here. Wow, that’s better. [Music] something else. There’s more. [Music] That’s looking back. Somewhere through there was a road or is a road. Takes some believing. So I’m down at the bridge, the one that survived. And the only way out of here is at least 1,000 altitude m climbing cuz the gorge here is obviously not fit for a road. I mean, I had a beautiful one from up there, but yeah, work starts now. Oh, the uphill looks cool, too. It’s just a bit harder. [Music] It’s a hard slo. But conclusion, I pushed my bike up the hill on myself to the limit. idiot. Why am I doing this? [Music] So I got lucky. I got a room with lake view. [Music] Not half bad, eh? Even a swimming pool. But I think I’m happy with a nice shower and a cold beer. [Applause] [Music] No, this isn’t Kamut’s fault. This is a short touch a shortcut that I came up with. [Music] Now this is a common shortcut. [Music] [Music] It’s the best bridge for miles around. [Music] [Music] You know, you could walk across, maybe even cycle, but if I have a chance for a ferry, I’ll take it. [Music] Feel like a kid in the toy shop. Got the ferry again. [Music] This is going to be a bit of an adventure. There’s a lack of bridges, so can’t just go around. Pretty [Music] impressive. [Music] Now, I’m sure the train ride would be cool, too. [Music] But the woman at the count told me no bikes tough. I’m sure it will be [Music] It looks like the hiking path will be on the tracks. Not too sure if I want to do that. So, I might go zigzagging up the mountain there. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] I made it at least to a bigger road. [Music] There we have a happy skier. I guess the skis have seen better days, but [Music] [Applause] [Music] One thing I noticed on this trip, every time I’m up somewhere in the mountains, the hotels are full with hikers. Never heard much about it, but in the circles that go for this things, the word must be out. I have to say it’s not only for hikers. That was a reverse might be mine, but not yet. [Music] That’s the path down to the gorge. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Heat. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Heat. [Music] [Applause] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] Yeah, that was the lovely place. There’s a lot of hikes to offer as well. Finally, a downhill has started. Long made it last. [Music] [Music] Poor boats. [Music] So, here we are at the ancient city of Msini, and I’m all armed with maps and things to do the loop and take it all in. It’s beautiful setting actually like it. We’re approaching the racecourse. I would have loved to do a fast lap on my bicycle, but I wasn’t allowed in with it. [Music] More pieces of wall. [Applause] That could have been a gate. [Music] Well, if you wanted to attack from this side, you were tire by the time you reach the gate. Now I have a downhill. Yippee. [Music] You know, so far it’s all been very clean, beautiful. But now the last few kilometers of this agricultural roads are all just rubbish. Looks like I’ve arrived somewhere. [Music] Time to say goodbye to Greece. Conclusion. Great landscape that made me feel like a yo-yo. Friendly folks that made me feel welcome. Beautiful remains of former powers made me feel insignificant and sweat pouring out while beer was pouring in made me feel alive and very grateful too. [Music]