Week-end à Istanbul – Échappées belles 4K

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Week-end à Istanbul – Échappées belles 11 janvier 2020

Istanbul est la ville idéale pour passer un week-end placé sous le signe de la diversité. Capitale des empires byzantin et ottoman pendant plus de 1500 ans, ancienne capitale de la Turquie moderne, Istanbul s’est appelée Byzance puis Constantinople. Cette cité aux mille vies possède un patrimoine d’une très grande richesse. Mais plus qu’un musée à ciel ouvert, Istanbul est une ville dynamique qui attire les touristes du monde entier. La découvrir, c’est se perdre dans le Grand Bazar et s’abandonner à ses très nombreuses spécialités. Jérôme Pitorin débute son périple urbain à bord d’un ferry, au milieu du Bosphore.
Au sommaire :
– Le Bosphore, poumon d’Istanbul
– Les animaux des rues les plus chouchoutés du monde
– La mode ottomane
– Les îles des Princes, havre des minorités
– Le rituel du bain turc
– Escapade sur la côte de la mer Noire

Les bonnes adresses d’Istanbul :

📌 Visiter Sainte Sophie :
Adresse : Sultanahmet-Fatih, Ayasofya Meydanı ; Istanbul
Tarifs et renseignements : +90 212 522 17 50 ou +90 212 522 09 89
https://ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr/en

📌 Découvrir les baklavas / réserver un cours :
Chez Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Tél : +90 212 249 96 80
https://www.karakoygulluoglu.com/baklavas

📌 Traverser le Bosphore en ferry :
Compagnie Şehir Hatları
http://en.sehirhatlari.istanbul/en

📌Dormir dans un hôtel avec un toit-terrasse dans la vieille ville :
Angel’s Home Hotel
Adresse : Amiral Tafdil Sk. No: 26, 34122, Sultanahmet – Istanbul
Tél : 0090 212 638 19 96
https://www.angelshomehotel.com/

📌 Prendre un goûter au Pera Palace Hotel pour les fans de littérature !
Pera Palace Hotel
Adresse : Meşrutiyet Caddesi No: 52 34430 Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu Istanbul

Anasayfa

📌 Découvrir la plus petite des îles des Princes et savourer un brunch traditionnel :
Chez Canan Degirmenci – à Kinaliada
Réservation : 0090 533 231 26 26

📌 Tour en bateau sur la Corne d’or avec Mustafa Mutlu :
0 532 772 25 40
Possible tous les jours, l’après-midi ou le soir

📌 Pour faire du canoë sur le Bosphore :
contacter Burak KUYUMKU au +90 534 587 75 24

📌 Découvrir les bains turcs :
Cağaloğlu Hamamı https://www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr/

📌 Çemberlitaş Hamamı https://www.cemberlitashamami.com/cemberlitas-hamami_fr_fr/

📌 Marché aux puces à Istanbul :
Feriköy Antika Pazar, Cumhuriyet, Semt Pazarı No:8, 34380 Şişli/İstanbul Tous les dimanche, à partir de 9h

– Découvrir l’ebru :
Kubilay Eralp Dinçer, artiste et professeur d’ebru (parle anglais) http://www.ebrusitesi.com/en/index.html

📌 Denizhan Sezgin est guide touristique à Cumalikizik et à Bursa : +90 532 214 20 99

📌 Barba Yani Restaurant
Adresse: MURAT KIZILKULA No:b- 8/a, 34975, PTT – Burgazada Şb., 34975 Adalar, Turquie
Tel:+90 532 644 95 84
Web: https://barbayanirestaurant-restaurant.business.site

📌 Istanbul Experiences
Web: https://istanbulexperiences.wixsite.com/website
Mail: istanbulexperiencesofficial@gmail.com
WhatsApp: wa.me/905345877524

📌 Prendre un café avec vue sur la Corne d’Or
« Café Pierre LOTI »
Adresse : Eyüp Merkez Mah, İdris Köşkü Cd., 34050 Eyüp / Istanbul
Tél : +90 212 497 13 13
http://www.pierrelotitepesi.com/index2.asp

📌 Acheter un tapis souvenir dans le Grand Bazar
Chez Florence OGÜTGEN
Magasin TRADITION, KURKÇULER CAD RUBI HAN N.11
QUARTIER DU CUIR GRAND BAZAR
Tél : 0090 532 511 98 89
https://tradition-carpet.com/

📌 Service de la Culture et de l’Information de Turquie
https://turquietourisme.ktb.gov.tr/

📌 Go Turkey
https://www.goturkey.com/

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📌 Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/echappees_belles/
📌 Pinterest : https://www.pinterest.fr/Echappees_Belles/
📌 france.tv : https://www.france.tv/france-5/echappees-belles/

Sophie Jovillard, Tiga, Ismaël Khelifa et Jérôme Pitorin se relayent le samedi à 20h50 sur france5 pour vous faire découvrir des échappées aussi belles que lointaines.

[Music] Hello everyone. Thank you for being loyal to our escapades. This week, I invite you to join me in Istanbul for a 3-day weekend. Oh, watch out, it’s dead. Yeah, great. Bravo, eh. Istanbul, formerly called Byzantium, then Constantinople when it became the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, is today a megalopolis of nearly 15 million inhabitants, three times the population of the capital Ankara. So, during my weekend, I’m going to show you its unique features, its architectural treasures testifying to its rich history, but also what makes it the symbol of modern Turkey, without forgetting, of course, to savor its delicious gastronomy and stroll through the markets and other grand bazaars. So, welcome to Istanbul, the city of 3,000 mosques. Welcome to my escapades [Applause] for Jérôme Pitorin, a rich and exciting weekend in Istanbul. Like all peoples of the world, we are proud of our history. I think it’s important to preserve this heritage. Discovery weekend. What makes the difference is that our island is less touristy than the others. Most of the inhabitants were born and raised here. It’s one of the best places in the world for canoeing because of the magnificent view. Here, as surprising as it may seem, wishes do come true. Shopping weekend. And here we are in front of one of the 18 gates of the Grand Bazaar. There are 2000 m² in the Grand Bazaar. Oh yeah. Here we are in the largest flea market in Turkey, which opens every Sunday and welcomes a lot of people. Oh well, gastronomic weekend. If there is no discipline, there can be no success. Good work, friends. So are you planning on cooking fish? Yes. And then we’re going to get some abass. Also. Okay. It works. It works. There’s a real love for gastronomy in this country. Weekend cookout. The Turkish hamam is a place of tradition, so ancestral techniques must be kept alive. It’s the very first luxury hotel in Istanbul. Many distinguished travelers came here for their stay. Agatha Christi, and of course the father of Turkey, Mustapha Kemalatural 3 days. Welcome to Istanbul between Europe and Asia. [Music] [Applause] Victor, hello my rabats. Rabats like here in Istanbul. HG from Nice. Jérôme, how are you? Hel from Nice, what does that mean? Welcome. Ah, well, that’s good. And you answer H BL. H bouc which means I’m welcome. I’m happy to be here. Ah, I proclaim myself welcome. Exactly. It’s not bad. That’s how everyone is happy. It’s great. I could hear you talking. You speak Turkish very well. It’s been 11 years, so I’m starting. Yeah, you’re off to a better start than that. I swallow my simite, but with a piece of simite in my mouth, we talk about tur better. Okay. So that’s a little morning specialty of the day. Here, I’ll share with you. Thanks. Okay, how many days are you here? I’m here for a 3-day weekend. We’re going to run a little because 3 days isn’t long. There, that’s it. Do you have your sneakers? I put on sneakers. Everything ‘s fine, don’t worry. So here we are on the Asian side. Asian, yeah. In Kadike. Okay. Every day, there are thousands of people crossing the bossfort like this by boat. Okay. And here we are, going to the European side. And here we go. We’re going to Europe. We’re going from Asia to Europe. Are you ready? Come on, it’s great. Let’s go. [Music] [Applause] [Music] There are people singing, it’s funny. Always on the boats, a bit like in France in the metro. What’s the song about? It’s a love song with their tough air . Turkish men are very romantic and there are many love songs. Bravo! [Applause] Which side do you live on? For 10 years, I lived on the European side and recently, I’ve been living on the Asian side. Often, Turks live on the Asian side and work on the European side. And there, to understand, the Bosfort is a bit like a canal that is between two seas. The Sea of Marmara which is to the south and the Black Sea which is the Black Sea the Carnis. This canal is 40 km long and it is very important for the Turks this Bos h because we live in a city of 17 million inhabitants and often to have a moment of calm it is good to cross the boscore. It allows you to be quiet. We breathe, we get some fresh air before returning to the tumult of the city where it is teeming with That’s it. activity of people. We are quiet here. So you came for work, why did you come? And I came for love. Ah, it’s love that brought you here. Great! Exactly. I was studying in Bordeaux. I met my wife there and she said to me “Come to Istanbul, it’s magnificent.” She didn’t lie. [Music] Welcome to Europe. Here we go. [Music] [Applause] I’d need to buy a Victor transport card, you know, to be able to take the metro, the tram and all that. So, these are the machines. How much does it cost for the weekend? So, a card costs 6 L. 6, what’s that? 1 € 6, that’s 1 €. So, while you have your bills in hand, I’ll show you something about your Turk, the father of modern Turkey. Turkish. Yeah. So, what’s funny about these bills is that the bigger the bill, the more attack doesn’t even come. Ah, he’s smiling at us. He’s smiling at us. Exactly. [Applause]
[Music] So, Jérôme, this is the Egyptian market. You ‘re going to find lots of good things, Lukou. I’m getting strangely closer, I don’t know why I have a kind of natural attraction. I can taste it, it’s good. Coconut no with little mosses. Thank you, sir. Thank you, sir. [Music] Watch out, ch in front. I like it, it’s lively, it’s teeming with people, the activities. There’s a bit of everything. Yes, it has a bit of everything. You can’t say that. We go from fruits and vegetables to t-shirts and shirts. So, t-shirts, they bring back good memories for me because I was a shirt salesman when I arrived in Turkey. No. Yes. Yes. So, how was it? Was it a good school for learning the language for you? Ah, that’s great. There’s nothing better. There’s nothing better when it comes to contact with people, it’s the best school. [Music] So, Jérôme, we’re in the Sultan Lamette neighborhood. Yeah. And here’s your hotel that we booked for you. Ah, it’s cool. Yeah, the decor’s fun anyway. Promise. It’s not bad here. You’ll see, there’s a little terrace that I have to show you. OK. After you. I booked, they even reserved a room for me in the name of pitorin. Please, here is your key. Thank you very much. Hello Jérôme, I’ll let you settle in, I’m going to the terrace. OK, I’ll join you right away in 3 minutes. See you right away. [Music] So Jérôme, are you settled in? Great, impeccable. A small neighborhood hotel like that, that suits me. And look at that. Ouch ouch ouch. That’s the Blue Mosque. That ‘s the Blue Mosque. Yeah, it’s great. Exactly. Extraordinary, which is under construction, by the way. There’s a minar under construction and then Hagia Sophia there. Oh yes! Wow! There are terraces everywhere everywhere. Ah Ilstan boule, that’s like that! There are terraces on all the roofs and all around us the Bossfort, the Sea of Marmara. Ah what a view! Wonderful! Thank you! Great idea! But you’re welcome, with pleasure. [Music] In the heart of Istanbul, flows the Bosfort. One of the rivers that doesn’t divide the city, it’s rather its link between the European and Asian shores. For centuries, it has punctuated the lives of the inhabitants of Istanbul. In the early morning, fishermen are the first to set up camp on the edge of this stretch of sea. Amateur or professional, all enjoy the tranquility of the Bosfort. Since he retired , Yilmas has cast his line here every day to supplement his income. It’s so pleasant here that whether there are fish or not doesn’t really matter. The fish come from the north of the Black Sea and migrate south across the sea. of Marmara then the Mediterranean and passes through the Bosfort. For now, the waters of the Black Sea are too warm. They’d better not move. But as soon as the water cools down there, the fish will start to migrate and that’s where we’ll be able to catch them. While he waits by the Boss Fort, Junette hurries to take up his duties. He’s captain on the steamers. They’re fer that shuttle between the two sides of the city. In the morning, we mustn’t waste any time. Firstly, to avoid making passengers wait, and then there’s security. We have to retrieve the previous team’s documents on the condition of the boat to ensure there’s no danger during the crossing. Millions of Istanbulites take his boats every day between Asia and Europe, like Abdouah, who lives on the Asian side. Right now, I’m in training, so I often have to go to the other side. We forget our worries and it’s a wonderful way to start the day. An enchanting interlude for the travelers. But the captain remains focused despite his 20 years of experience. When you sail a boat like this on the Bosfort, you have to take several factors into account. First , you have to look at the traffic density, all the boats and their route. We also have to pay attention to geographical aspects, the weather, the currents, the bad weather, always keeping in mind that we’re transporting people and not goods. This gives us a special responsibility. There aren’t only Turkish boats here. There are boats from all over the world. All nationalities have the right to pass through the Bosfort. More than 50,000 ships pass through the Bosfort each year: leisure boats, container ships, oil tankers. It’s the busiest D3 in the world, ahead of the Panama Canal or the Swedish Canal. On this boat highway, some would cautiously make their way to enjoy the Bosfor as close to the water as possible. We’ll stick to our canals and head straight along the Asian shore. Bourak has been offering this activity on the Bosfor for a few months. For me, it’s one of the best places in the world to canoe because it offers magnificent views. There’s always a slight current. You have to be careful, but it’s interesting because you always have to fight the current a little. For this American couple, this trip is a unique way to experience the city. Canoeing is a beautiful sport. Being on the water in the middle of Istanbul really gives you the feeling of being part of the community. Seeing the fishermen, being able to greet them, meeting the locals on their small boats. You really feel like you’re part of the city. Many Istanbulites make their living thanks to the Bosfor. Mustapha is one of the local figures. Welcome, welcome. Come on, let’s go, son. Wait a second, I need to move the boat a little closer. For 28 years, he’s been taking tourists around aboard his little boat. [Music] Mustapha couldn’t imagine doing any other job because for him, Bossfor rhymes with freedom. [Applause] When I ‘m here, I feel very happy. I’m in my element. Anyway, if it weren’t for this breath of fresh air, this bossfor, I couldn’t stay in Istanbul. It would be impossible for me. Come on, welcome. It was a pleasure to meet you. [Music] These customers of the day live in Istanbul. For the first time, his three friends are taking the boat just for fun. A way to rediscover their city. There’s so much to see around us that it’s hard to argue. You say, “Wait, look at that over there.” And then the Blue Mosque over there. The Golden Horn, it’s magnificent. This is a place where you find serenity. Several civilizations have succeeded one another here. Everyone wanted this bossfort. It is so imposing, so beautiful, and so strategic. I feel lucky to have been born here and to be able to enjoy this place. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Hi, how are you? Oh, hi my friend, it’s nice to see you. Hello, this is Jérôme. So here, he’s playing Tavla. It’s a game that ‘s played a lot by Turks all over the street. And what’s the difference compared to Bacamon? It’s the same thing. It’s the same as Baggamon. And everything is handcrafted here. It’s made of bes wood, all that. Handcrafted of course. There are beads in some, there are some tables that go up to 1000 1500. That can be very expensive. Oh yeah, so that’s more than 200 €. There you go. Oh yeah, he’s formidable apparently. He’s a little bit ahead of his opponent there. And tell me, quick question, how long has Tavla been played in Turkist? I would say it started in 1800 among the Persians. Now everyone plays it. It’s very entertaining. Winning or losing isn’t really important. It’s more about having fun provoking your opponent and creating discussions. That’s the important thing. In any case, it’s the beautiful objects. Yeah, but it’s very funny how I We’re going to wish you good luck. Have a good game, as they say. We’re going to practice before coming to face you. Bye bye. [Applause] Okay, Jerome, are you feeling a little peckish? Feeling a little peckish? Al, what are you thinking? I don’t know if I should tell you a Turkish specialty, there are plenty. It could be, I don’t know, kebab, baclava, kebab. We’ll have a little kebab if you want. Kebab. Come on, for lunch here. Go over there. So, show me a little. Or there there. But there, the menu is already almost on the wall. Oh yeah, there are lots of things, eh. In France, we mean by kebab, it’s a kind of sandwich with a bun that you open in which you put meat and raw vegetables. But that’s not all there is to kebab. No, in fact what we call kebab in France here, they call it don kebab and it’s actually meat on skewers. That’s it, that’s kebab. In fact, it’s a style of cooking over fire. Kebab means cooked over fire. Cooked over fire. Yeah, that’s it. OK, fine. I’ve never seen that actually. That’s a big first for me. Never seen it. No, I’m discovering. Oh, I learn something new every day. It’s spectacular. Yeah, it has its little effect. Yeah. What is it? It’s the testi kebab, sir. It’s chicken that we cook in the oven for 10 minutes. The chicken cooks with the vegetables. And that’s how we serve it, sir. Oh, okay. Thank you. To our dishes, as we say, bon appétit. Faton Flon. Oh, I already forgot that phrase, it’s not a problem. [Applause] Yeah, it’s good. I noted what’s needed. It’s very good. Perfect. No, it’s not too spicy. Bravo. This is Friday prayer. This is Friday prayer. Yeah. The call to prayer throughout the city resonates. It was complicated the first nights because they sing at 5 a.m. and it woke me up, it scared me a little. But now when I go to France, you see, I feel like I’m missing something, you see. I feel like my days are more punctuated like a lover. Oh yeah, that’s great. [Music] So, Jérôme, we’re going to meet my friend Fati here. I don’t know where he is, but he must be over there in front of the benches, he told me. Ah, he’s over there. Hello, how are you? Are you well? Hello. Jérôme. Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you. So, Fati, he’s a friend of mine, a friend of a friend who has two jobs. He’s a tour guide. Guide. Yes. And at the same time, I farm. So, farmer, what do you grow? Tomatoes. Ah, tomatoes. OK. So, tell us a little bit about this neighborhood. It’s these two monuments. Here, we’re in the center, in the heart of the old town. The truth is, it’s really the heart. On one side, it’s the Blue Mosque right across there, the basilica, it’s a Sophie. Okay. And the Blue Mosque, is it currently under construction? Yes, They’re restoring it. It’s been a year, it’s Friday prayer time, it’s closed. Anyway, we’ll go see the Hagia Sophia if you want. Let’s do that. So, what’s quite surprising is to see these two monuments on the surface and I don’t have the impression that it’s really a coincidence. You’re right. When they built the Blue Mosque under 1 m, they wanted to exceed the dimensions of the Hagia Sophia because after all, it was the Christians who built that building. They didn’t succeed, the truth is. We see the minaret that was thrown back by the Muslims. Okay. On the sides. OK. There you go. Then we also see the tombs of the princes are right in front. There you go. Okay. OK. There is the law of fridit, which is that you must kill all your brothers when you pass to the throne, your brothers, your nephews, the wives of your father, your brothers, and so on so that the kingdom does not divide in two. It is a terrible cruelty. [Music] The couples there are immense. It is gigantic and impressive. It was a model for all the mosques too. They were inspired by this architecture. We see there truly Christian paintings, eh, which mix with the Arabic scriptures. It is superb. I love it. And it is still crazy to think that it became a mosque when it was a place of Christian worship. Yeah. Yeah. So on May 29, 1453, even in the evening, finally at tm when he conquered the city, he transformed this church into a mosque. He put down his carpet, he said that this was a mosque. Okay. He decreed that it would become a mosque. We have a mosque and then it became a mosque. [Music]
[Music] The access is funny. It’s reminiscent of the accesses to the Roman arenas. [Music] Ah, we have a plunging life there. So what impresses me the most is the size of these calligraphy panels. Yes. Well, they are medallions that measure about 7.50 m in diameter. Calligraphy is very important for Muslims. It’s the only art they have because they’re not allowed to make mosaics, paintings, and so on. What do they do? Okay. So at that time, there was only writing. Yeah. Only writing could do it. [Music] Oh, here, we have a very beautiful mosaic from the 13th century. When the Ottomans were small Starb, they covered all these mosaics with a show and when they removed the chrouvé its mosaics. It’s crazy the size of each little mosaic tile. It’s a work of finesse. When the Thomas came to Istanbul, the artists who made these mosaics, they had to leave the city. So the Byzantines went where? To Rome. Oh okay. And in Rome, they made the Renaissance. It’s not bad. Ah it’s crazy. They were talented anyway. It’s cool, huh. [Music] It was a very nice visit. First day and go by quickly for me. Thank you very much. It’s a great pleasure to learn all these things thanks to you. Thank you. Thank you. Goodbye. Thank you my dear Fati. You too, it was very interesting. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Istanbul has 15 million inhabitants and hundreds of thousands of cats considered full-fledged residents. In the former capital of the sultans, cats are pachats. These street felines belong to no one, but everyone takes care of them. They are not really alley cats. They are so spoiled that they don’t even like the taste of fish anymore. You have to give them shrimp. In the morning, as soon as I come to open my shop, he is there waiting for me and he comes back at closing time. He is a very well-behaved animal. He understands very well that I am taking care of him. Ran is one of those Istanbulites who loves cats. On her Cats of Istanbul account, followed by nearly 20,000 people, she shares photos of her favorite animals, omnipresent in the city for centuries. The first cats arrived in Istanbul from the Middle East and Egypt 10,000 years ago. They arrived aboard warships and merchant ships. At that time, there were only wooden houses here and people didn’t have the possibility of keeping their food safe from rodents and these rodents carried epidemics. So, having cats was a way of protecting themselves against the plague and diseases. Today, many Istanbul residents are still concerned about the fate of small felines. Kassim is a vegetable wholesaler. Nearly twenty cats have taken up residence in his warehouse. There are some, they’re quite a few, aren’t they? Hey, my dear? In the morning, I take care of them first and then the people under my responsibility. And even sometimes when I’m not working on weekends or during the holidays, I don’t feel well and I end up coming to see them. [Music] These little ones have just been born. Their mother is over there. We’re lucky she doesn’t attack us. They must be about 1 to 3 weeks old. Hello. Kassim shares this love of cats with his daughter Irem, who has even become a veterinarian. Father and daughter collaborate to care for them and neuter the males to better control births. They have spotted the tomcat they want to have neutered. Turn it over. OK. [Music] So he’s a male, a healthy male. So, he mates with all the females in the area and we end up with babies everywhere. Irem will take care of the cat for free in his own veterinary clinic. He starts by examining him to make sure he can be operated on. [Music] We have a problem. He has a toothache. The young male has a tooth infection. Ir must first treat him before neutering him. He will stay with Irem for at least a week. There are many animals who live in wealthy homes. Their owners bring them to us, pay us a fortune, and leave. But street cats aren’t so lucky. So we thought we should help them, and I have many veterinary colleagues who do the same thing. In addition to regular clients, IRE always keeps space to welcome one or two cats per week. All of them are street cats that we treat, sterilize, and then release. We love them very much. I hope they love us too. Istanbul City Hall also takes great care of its cats. For the past two years, a municipal veterinary bus has been traveling through Istanbul’s various neighborhoods. A mobile veterinary clinic entirely dedicated to street cats. The city hall can count on the cooperation of residents. In one hour, about fifty cats are examined. In the Ranig area where we are located, there are many people who are mobilized for animals. This explains why there are so many here. The neighborhood is conducive to their development. Since there are several parks and small gardens, they can flourish. In the clinic, we treat parasites and treat common illnesses. Néchez, the veterinarian also takes the opportunity to implant microchips in the animals. She’ll tell me again, please. Then we’ll enter it into the system with a kind of cat ID number, and that way we’ll be able to know which cat it is, what its health problems are, what operations it’s had, and so on. All of this is funded by the municipality. Since we share the same environment, we must protect the health of the animals we live with. In this way, we also protect our own health because they can spread parasites and diseases. This work is beneficial for everyone. Once treated, the residents take them home, or rather, to their territory. I’m going to release you near the garden wall there. [Music] Neither wild nor completely domesticated, Istanbul’s cats have become one of the city’s symbols. [Music] I have my card, the card. I don’t have one. I have my card, I invite you. We’re going to keep warm. We’re going to cross the Galata Bridge and you’re going to discover a big bazaar. exceptional. So there are only these stations I think before the Grand Bazaar. It works. The Grand Bazaar is still the largest covered market in the world. It could be that. Yeah. Yeah , that’s its reputation. [Music] Lütfen öncelikle inenlere müsaade ediniz. Sirkeciden gelenci. [ Music] So Jéromici, we’re already at the Grand Bazaar in fact. There, the outside part, we’re inside the Grand Bazaar. So we’re not in the closed Grand Bazaar but we’re there, 200,000 m² in the Grand Bazaar. Oh yeah, yeah, it’s still a big area. And here we are in front of one of the 18 gates of the Grand Bazaar. So the Nuru Osmanier gate. That’s the inside part, you see, it looks a lot like a shopping mall. Yeah, vintage. Yes. And even more typical. Less asceptic. [Music] So the Grand Bazaar is organized by district, for example, jewelers, leather, furniture, lighting. Exactly. The Grand Bazaar was built just after the Ottomans took Constantinople. It dates back to the 15th century to be exact. And since its construction by Fati Sultan Memet, it has been organized like this: the jewelers’ district, the leather district. So you’ll find the lou in the same place, the leather in the same place. Okay. And, uh, there’s plenty to choose from because it’s very big. Okay, Jerome, there are 58 streets here. I’m looking for Ral. He knows the Grand Bazaar very well, but I have to ask for directions first because otherwise we’ll never get there. Excuse me. Where can we find Mr. Ral? He’s in the leather business. He has a shop. Do you see who Ral is? Do you see who Ral is? Mr. Ral’s shop is the owner of the shop . Okay. Thank you very much. This is the Coach store. That must be Ral Bale. Hello, are you Mr. Ral? Hello, I’m Victor. Mr. Kemal sent me. Yes, hello. Welcome. I was told you knew the Grand Bazaar well. Yes, I know the Grand Bazaar. Mr. Kemal told me you were coming. This is Jerome. Jerome. Jerome. Jerome. Where are you from? French. Oh, you’re French? Do you speak French? I speak French. Speak French. A little bit. I speak French. I’m great. Let’s go for a little tour. So tour. It’s not come and show me a nice place. It’s right here in the Grand Bazaar. The r’s are important because before the merchants, when they came to sleep, they needed places. That means a hotel. So that was the equivalent of the hotel of the time. The H is the equivalent of the Serraille caravan. It’s the place where the merchants left the animals downstairs. Unloaded the goods and slept upstairs. He slept and because of the warmth of the animals too, that was good because in winter it was nice because of the warmth of the animals, he could sleep without heating. Okay. It’s quite extraordinary to imagine that here there are merchants who came from all over Asia or all over Europe who met here to trade. It was a center for the Middle East, for the Orient, to move to Europe from Europe which moves to the Orient. That was of course a very important center. It’s a beautiful place, isn’t it? It’s it’s ex. Have you ever been here? Never? No, it’s true. I came to the Grand Bazaar but these places are new to me. Behind the scenes at the Grand Bazaar. Thank you very much, R. Have you seen the number of phones? Everyone calls him, he has a line for each customer, and he comes to deliver coffee everywhere. Great. How much tea do we drink a day in the… Oh, a lot here. They love tea here. That ‘s a few hundred thousand cups of tea. Oh, well, the man gives us some more. Serving is a real tradition, eh? Turkey, we can’t escape it. Do you know how much tea you make a day, sir? 500, 600, 1000? Yes. In Turkey, there’s not a day without tea. It’s impossible. I know that my wife, if there’s no tea… Uh, it’s a problem, and Turkey, health, it’s the same. Goodbye. Thank you very much. [Music] Grand Bazaar, it’s huge. There are more than 2,600 stores. About 30,000 people work here. 30,000 people. And every day, we have at least 150,000 to 250,000 people who pass through Grand Bazaar. Thank you very much, Ral, for giving us your time, for giving us more than 30 minutes, and for showing us places we would never have been able to see without you. So thank you. Goodbye. It’s the place of temptation for people who like to bring back souvenirs. There, there’s something there. There’s a little bit of everything. I’d love to come back, you know, the little coffee machine thing there to make coffee. Yeah, that’s it. Turkish coffee, is that it? Yeah, that’s nice. This is a Turkish coffee pot. For one person, you put the coffee, some water, it boils and then you pour it like this and you serve. And then I drink it. That’s it, uh, how much do you sell your little coffee pot for? 100 L 100 L What’s that? That ‘s €15 a little more. 30 30 l well if you have to start low. Otherwise the lowest I can do is 70 L €11. Ah that’s already better. 50 OK OK OK. Magnificent. Magnificent. Jérôme, well done eh. Ah that’s a big negotiation. He didn’t seem very hard at business. Thank you. Thank you. Enjoy. That’s very kind. From Istanbul, a 2-hour drive is enough to travel back in time. Duokez is known as the oldest village in the Ottoman Empire. The glorious ancestor of Turkey. From the cobblestone streets to the architecture of the houses. Everything is like it was in the 14th century. The way the houses are built is typically Ottoman. It’s Ottoman civil engineering. They used only stones, wood, and mud to build these houses. Usually three-story houses. Denissan has been a tour guide in the area for 30 years. He knows this small Ottoman village inside and out. In the Ottoman era, when people came from this street, they saw nothing in front of them, just an empty square. But in fact, there’s a narrow road here, and you could escape through this alley. If you’re a foreigner, you might not find your way. But if you live here, you know where to go. It’s like a labyrinth. In the early 1980s, the Turkish authorities renovated these dwellings. Jumelozek is the best-preserved Ottoman village in the country, which earned it a UNESCO World Heritage Site status and attracted many tourists. People, including visitors from all over the world, are interested in Ottoman culture, and that’s why they come here. More and more people want to see how it began, how people lived back then. The Ottoman Empire lasted for 6 centuries. Today, life has changed a lot in the village. But the locals remain very attached to their heritage and their territory. Like all peoples around the world, we are proud of our history. I think it’s important to preserve and pass on this heritage. We must be able to show new generations what remains of this great Ottoman Empire that reigned for centuries. At its height in the 16th century, the sultans ruled an empire six times larger than present-day Turkey, stretching from the Balkans to North Africa. A prestigious past that the authorities are now seeking to promote. Ottoman culture is fashionable. It fascinates foreigners and Turks alike. Every week in the Orzan family, it’s a ritual. Parents and children gather to watch their favorite series. Like millions of viewers, they follow the adventures of the father of the founder of the Ottoman dynasty. A big hunting party awaits us to decapitate the opposing army. Come on, let’s go, my brave ones. This hit series helped popularize the Ottoman era among a wide audience. Before, I mostly watched cowboy movies on Sunday night. But now, there’s this series that allows us to relive Ottoman history. with the action scenes, the battles, all that. I love this series because it’s extremely gripping. This is the first time that the founding of the Ottoman period has been filmed in such detail. Of course, we used to read a lot and study our history, but it’s not the same as watching it on TV. The Ottoman period is also a period of cultural influence. Fine and sophisticated arts developed, such as brou, a type of painting on water. Passionate about this technique, Kuby has been teaching it for 15 years. Brou is the creation of patterns on this liquid. This liquid must be a little thick and sticky. Natural pigments are used to do this work. The artist then transfers this pattern onto a simple sheet of paper by absorption. This art of marbled paper emerged in Central Asia before taking off in Istanbul in the 15th century. During the Ottoman era, brou was used to decorate paper used as a support for calligraphy or to bind precious books. Marbled paper also prevented illegal reproductions due to its complex patterns. It was a way to secure trade and the aesthetic aspect took a back seat. Today, the marbles are displayed on walls, and more and more Istanbul residents are learning the subtleties of this art, which require patience and harmony. To make it easier, from the start, we’ll place three drops here, here, and there. Will the patterns join together? No, they won’t, and the spaces between them will make it more beautiful. I don’t like it. I love the sounds because it soothes me when I place a few drops on the water and it spreads. I love it. And when I transfer it to the paper, it’s truly magical. Lesbou isn’t a fixed artist. The artist can also give free rein to his creativity. By perpetuating these gestures, his enthusiasts keep the tradition alive. An Ottoman tradition and culture that remains an integral part of modern Turkish identity. [Music] [Music] The price of nuts is crazy. We round up to the nearest kilo. Yes, okay. Oh, hi. How are you? Are you okay? Are you okay. Yeah. Are you starting your market? Oh yeah, it’s the right season for all fruits. I love nuts. Nice to meet you. How’s it going? Super good. Are you eating well? I’m eating well. I’ve been seeing some really beautiful things since the beginning of the weekend. I’m having a great time. Do you want me to teach you something? Come on, enjoy! The restaurant has been here for 7 years and I always buy my fish here. They’re always very, very expensive. I’ll get you some bonito. Very good. That’s the one that’s 8 €, right? Yes, that’s right. How much do you need for a year? When I was little, when we were at school, we used to come here and he’s the one who made us taste oysters for the first time. They’re Bosfort oysters. Yes, that’s true. Yes, the wild ones like in France anyway. They have a certain appearance. They’re good. We’ll share, I’ll have the biggest piece. There’s texture, there’s a chewiness, as they say. Well, what’s surprising is that it’s almost not yolk-infused. You don’t taste that salty taste, that taste of, or it’s funny. It’s not bad. You’re not bad. Yeah, really. You’re not bad. Thanks. So, are you planning on cooking fish? Yes. And then we’ll have some abas at the Okay. That works. That works. You ‘re giving me a dream, but let’s go. Have a good day. So, you’re having the restaurant delivered. So there you go. There’s a neighborhood spirit, a little bit of a village spirit, I think, because it’s only small, independent businesses. Yes, almost. If I understand correctly, this is the neighborhood where you grew up. I can even say that we spent the same amount of time here. Oh really? Yeah. We used to escape, we used to come here to eat sometimes? Yes. Maybe have a little beer on the sly. A beer on the sly at school. Oh my goodness. We feel alive. The energy we find here, I love it. In the morning, we can have a little soup. In the afternoon, We have people who cook offal, intestines. Do you eat offal after school? We eat it all the time. We would have imagined that you could eat baclavas or sweet hair. I mean, we had pastries. You already know about Turkish fermented vegetables. So we drank the water from these fermented vegetables after traditional pastries or there, so it’s a mixture, it’s improbable, so beer, a sandwich with traditional pastries with a little pickle juice, so to speak, ex, I can’t pronounce the name of this neighborhood, how do you say it, you go, I’ll try, I’ll remember it [Applause] [Music] Hello, how are you? I’m fine. Pleased to meet you, sir. I’ve been buying my offal there since I was a child because I’ve always loved offal. They’re all good to eat. What was my idea, asking you to let me taste Turkish gastronomy ? Why did I have this idea? Is it the eyes? Yes. And that makes my mouth water . OK. There. It’s juicy. So I’m going to eat the brain I already know. It’s okay. The cheek. Give a kiss on the cheek. Always here I give a kiss on the cheek. And that’s the eye. Okay, yes. What’s important for me is always to remember that the animal has a head, has feet, has offal, and it’s not just the fillet. For you, respecting the animal from the moment you’re a carnivore, let’s say, or you’re on fish, is to eat as much as possible from this animal to respect the fact that you killed it. Eg. Exactly. Okay. Beautiful building in that neighborhood. Yes, it was the old courthouse. OK. So there, that’s our hotel. Ah, that’s there. Okay. At the time, it belonged to Sister Francisca. Okay. You’re welcome. You’re welcome. Thank you. It’s really pretty here. And with the view over there on the Boss Fort. Wow! Little secluded. Yeah, how lucky are you. How long have you been here? Since 2013. Okay. So, you have a star, do you have a ranking here? Oh no, there’s no Michelin guide. They don’t come to Michelin in Turkey. Okay. OK. Um, but there’s the list. Ah, the list is the ranking that Allain Ducass initiated, I think. That’s it. What’s your ranking? We ‘re one of six Turkish restaurants ranked. Okay. Ranked. Yes, we’re the first. Oh, that’s right. Great. Yes, thank you. And so that means what rating do you have? 94.5 out of 100. Oh yeah, that’s great. Bravo. Thank you. I’m happy. Bravo team. Yeah, bravo to the team obviously. It’s a team effort. It’s great. My chef listens who is already working on the fillets so what does the recipe consist of? Explain to me. We have some fillets, we take the fillets, we’re going to put it with salt, a little fennel to give that little spicy touch. We have to make the axis a little serious. There you go. Okay. OK. So simple. Well listen to this, Yes, well it’s always simple for a chef but that’s it. It’s OK, we have to cut. Okay. Ah it’s there from the fin. There you go I have to follow this line there. Yeah, we cut a little bit. You, you worked in France in the kitchen? Yes, I studied cooking in France in Paris. Cordon bleu and then still I had the chance to know great chefs Alain Sander at the time Oh yes yes yes yes. Another chantin like that and we’re done. Okay. And are you sure you want to do the evening service? Because if it’s me who does it, it’s not a given. [Music] Oh how beautiful it is, isn’t it? And we’re going to taste. So there is our bonito, small green tomatoes, small herbs. There is the Turkish caviar. Oh yes, it’s local. If it’s not local, we don’t use it, eh. Yes, [Music] it’s super good. It’s these little chips on top give a little crunch there. Also freshness with the tomato there. Bravo. Wow! I love it and I’m going back. He a weekend in Istanbul wouldn’t be complete without indulging in one of these essential rituals, The Turkish bath. Tonight, Fleur and Sandrine, French women living in Istanbul, are treating themselves to a moment of relaxation in one of the city’s most beautiful amams, which are 300 years old. We’ll take you to the locker room where you can change, and our staff will take care of you. If you ‘re ready, follow me. It’s this way. [Music] Fleur and Sandrine have grown so fond of this ritual that they go there every three months. In the women’s section, the two French women will be pampered by the staff for 90 minutes. [Applause] It’s a bit of an attraction for expats to go to the Amam. So either with their friends, or with their daughters when they come. It’s a must for visits from children and even with their husbands, since there are mixed amams. The Turkish bath embodies the Eastern tradition of caring for the body and mind. The heat source is located under the central marble slab. Under the effect of the steam, the pores dilate. The skin is then ready for the scrub. The scrub allows for renewed skin. Dead skin is removed, and my client will look younger in a moment. The most characteristic treatment of the Turkish hammam is the foam soaping. The masseuse soaks a towel in a basin of soapy water, then inflates it with air , releasing a large quantity of foam. This is Sandrine and Fleurs’ favorite moment. It’s the best monsoon bath there is. What I particularly appreciate about the Turkish hammam is that it remains extremely simple in the use of the products because, in the end, that’s all there is, this soap foam. It’s very healthy, and when you come out, you smell just perfectly good, and you really feel like you’re much cleaner than if you had used 3 tons of shower gel at home. The Turkish Hamam is a place of tradition. So we have to keep ancestral techniques alive. We do our best to perpetuate this practice and ensure that it continues in the future. Most of these establishments, so popular with tourists, date back to the Ottoman Empire. At the time, each neighborhood had its amam, just like its mosque and its souk. All social classes used to meet there. Manolia works in one of its historic baths. The Chamberlitas dates back to the 16th century. In the past, there was not running hot water in all Istanbul homes. The Amam were often near the mosques because people went to the Amam to clean themselves, to perform their ritual ablutions in order to be clean before going to pray. It’s not just about washing; it’s also a place for social interaction. It’s said that back in the day, old ladies would go to the Hamam to spot young women who might marry their sons. These days, Istanbulites go to the Hamam less often. But the old people still go there, like Yachar, who came to treat his backache. I think it will do me good to lie down on this warm stone. These days, we go to the Hamam mainly when we’re not feeling well, when we’ve caught a cold to perk up. We mustn’t desert these places inherited from our ancestors. We must keep coming. The problem is the lack of time. But whenever we can, we come here. Centuries old, the hamam ritual is still going strong. Today, around sixty establishments are still active in Istanbul. [Music] How are you? Hello Jerome, welcome to Kinaliada Island. How are you? Very well. Thank you. Nice to meet you and to be on your island. So, it’s quite disturbing because what do we do? 40 minutes by boat and we’re completely disconnected. Yes. Even though it’s the municipality of Istanbul, it’s as if you’re going somewhere else. That’s what the Prince’s Islands are. So, why are they called the Prince’s Islands? Actually, It dates back to the Byzantine era. The Byzantine princes initially had mansions built on these islands. Then they built monasteries. You should know, Jerome, that motor vehicles are prohibited on these islands. OK. There are only bicycles and electric vehicles. Would you like to go for a bike ride with me? Come on, let’s go. Here we go. Jeanan, it’s super impressive to see the extent of Istanbul there in front of us. It’s a city that never stops. Yes, it’s true that from here, it looks really very dense. There are the magnificent properties there, I say. Yes, these are the famous houses I was telling you about that wealthy people had built to spend their summers swimming in. Wow, that’s a steep climb there. Can you take me to the top? Yes, unfortunately, there are hills everywhere on the island. And that’s why it’s really hard to ride a bike here. Come on, never mind, we’ll finish the walk. It doesn’t matter. [Music] Well, you even saw the tree, it doesn’t want to go up the hill, it went the other way. [Music] Jerome, look, there’s a very beautiful pomegranate tree here. We drink a lot of pomegranate juice here in Turkey, right? Yes, it’s true that we eat a lot of pomegranates, but this fruit has other meanings for us. They say it brings luck. We put pomegranate decorations in our houses. For example, at New Year’s, throwing a pomegranate in front of your door brings luck. OK. Maybe eating one brings luck too, right. We’ll try. We have a choice. This one is a beautiful fruit. However, I’m not sure the one we chose is much better. There you go. [Music] That’s good. Jérôme, if you want, we can come to my place. We’ll take a break with a tea or a coffee. Great, perfect. Come on, hop on. [Music] Wow, that’s great. Welcome. We really have a beautiful view of IO. You can see all of Istanbul. Wow! Now that’s a panoramic view. It’s really nice here, isn’t it? [Music] Ah, super magnificent. Ah, you made me a little tea. Great. Do you prefer coffee? Yes, I’ll have a coffee. Cheers. You know, coffee has an important place in Turkish culture. And when a young woman and a young man want to get married, the young man’s family comes to ask the parents for the girl’s hand in marriage . During this visit, we offer coffee, of course. But among the coffees, there is one that we have salted. We obviously make sure to serve this salted coffee to the future husband. The young man must drink this cup of coffee to the end, otherwise he is refused the girl’s hand. Oh, that’s a salty story, huh? Are you from the island? Were you born here? No, I wasn’t born on this island. I’ve lived here for 3 years. Today, my main activity is to offer a unique experience to people visiting Istanbul by showing them something different on the Prince’s Islands. Of course, I take excursions to discover the island, but I can also introduce them through gastronomy. Turkish cuisine is really very rich and deeply rooted in our culture. Yes. So ultimately, you don’t just have the role of a guide, I want to say. You also like the idea of interacting with people. Yes, and I’m very happy about that. [Music] Jérôme, I’d like to show you a nice little place just down there. OK, that works. Oh yeah, it’s even more than nice. Wow! And you know, it’s very weird because I’m on a weekend here, so I’ve been in the city, in the hustle and bustle and all that, and all of a sudden, I feel like I’ve been teleported hundreds of kilometers away. Yes, it’s true that when you look like that, you’d think you were in Marmaris or Baum. While you’re only half an hour from Istanbul. The water is crystal clear. It’s pretty. It’s still a little paradise. How would you describe your island compared to the other three inhabited islands? What makes the difference, It’s that our island is less touristy than the others. It’s more of an island of locals. Most of the inhabitants were born and raised here. It’s a nice surprise for me. Thank you for introducing me to this little pebble. Can I kiss you? I’m the one who thanks you for coming to visit our island. Thank you, Jérôme. [Music] [Music] Set back from bustling Istanbul, the Prince’s Islands offer a multicultural face. [Music] Church, synagogue, and mosque recall the presence of the different communities that have settled here. Kassim belongs to the Alvi community, an unrecognized Muslim minority in Turkey. He has always lived on the island of Bourgazada. I live there all year round, summer and winter. The people here know each other well, are close to each other, and we’re in the middle of nature. City life doesn’t really appeal to us. Especially since we have the privilege and pleasure of living in harmony with one another. The Alivies interpret the Quran with great freedom. They do not go to the mosque but practice their religion in jemv, meeting houses where men and women gather for prayers and celebrations. Hello. Hello. Welcome, Kassim. The 3,500 Avis of the archipelago are gathered in an association of which Zeky, another resident of the island, is the president. So here is a fairly classic jemée. You will, of course, find portraits of the 12 imams in whom we believe, and there is a particularly important place given to the Prophet’s Alindre. The Alivies come to see us for the things of life, unions, burials, or the preparation and sharing of ritual food. On the Prince’s Islands, this religious minority has found a framework of tolerance to flourish. When there is a mass at the church, we, the Alivies, come to attend. And when there’s a funeral, we’re there. And other communities also come to our funerals. Here, there’s no discrimination. We live in brotherhood. Today, taken over by tourists, the Princes’ Islands have become a fashionable resort since the 19th century. At that time, the first steamboats connected Istanbul to the archipelago. Prominent Greek, Armenian, and Jewish merchants, as well as wealthy Ottomans, built sumptuous summer residences there. On Buyukada, the largest of the four inhabited islands, you hear all languages spoken. Hello, man. Oh, thank you when it’s nice. There, it’s not yet Mousa and Lydia are among the 15,000 Jews in Turkey. We’re going to give a little jam to the sap of the steps. He made a point of speaking French to tell us about their island where Moussa’s grandfather had a house built in 1932. What a beautiful day, the weather is nice today. Spending our childhood in Buadas was a dream. We spent four months here. We have leisure activities, sea bathing, walks, cycling, there is a beautiful view. We had Greek friends, Armenian friends, Jewish friends and also Turkish friends, let’s say, uh, to be more precise, Muslim Turks. We made very close friends. Nowadays, the Greek Orthodox continue to celebrate their religious holidays on the Prince’s Islands. The Saint George Monastery located at the top of Buyokada is their gathering point. Today is the second major feast of the Saint George Monastery. We celebrate two feasts at the same time. They are the Holy Techle and the feast of Saint Mary, Mother of God. Orthodox believers from the islands and Istanbul attend the mass. [Music] It’s important for the community that this church is open, that the other churches on the island are open as well, that religious services are sometimes held there. And for me, St. George’s Church belongs to all religions. On this day, it’s a rather special pilgrimage that brings together people beyond the Orthodox community. Muslims also participate. They walk alongside Christians to the monastery of St. George to ask for his favors. Among them, some engage in a curious ritual. They unwind spools of thread along the path. Reaching the summit without breaking this thread would increase the chances of seeing her wish come true. Zenep is Muslim and comes here every year. I hang your wishes in the presence of Saint George. Allah, I believe in you. Please grant me what I wish for. Here, as surprising as it may seem, wishes do come true. Pilgrims come from all over Turkey and even from all over the world. It’s a matter of faith. As long as you believe, there’s nothing wrong with that. God is the same for everyone. The Greek Orthodox who have been living in Turkey for generations are called Rom. There are only about a hundred of them left living on the Prince’s Islands. This is the case for Yorgo, who chose to settle there in 2003 to take over one of the last Greek restaurants. In his own way, he continues to keep the Room culture alive. When people come here, they feel like they’re in another world, like they’re in a Room village. The mezes, the seafood, all that comes from the kitchen room. I’m going to put on some Greek music. [Music] His customers mostly belong to Istanbul’s bourgeoisie. For one evening, he enjoys a cosmopolitan atmosphere here. [Applause] I’ll be frank with you. For the rooms, here, it’s still as if it were Greek. I regularly see Greeks who come back here and who are still in love with this island. They can’t hold back their tears, it reminds them of their childhood. The minorities still present on the Prince’s Islands are committed to preserving their way of life. For a long time, the coexistence of different cultures has contributed to the archipelago’s unique charm. [Music] [Music] Hi Jérôme. Are you okay? Yeah, I’m fine, I’m fine. And you? Well, great. We’re in Taxim, you told me it’s here. We’re in Taxim Square. Exactly. Well, it’s very lively here, huh. What does this square represent here? It’s a fairly symbolic square, I think. It’s quite symbolic, uh, because it’s changed a lot in recent years. People often meet here. It’s a bit like your Place de la République. That’s it. And so this statue, what does it tell? Well, look there in front, it’s Atat who liberated Turkey. Okay. And he’s the founder of the Turkish Republic. So yeah, it evokes his struggles, his fight for Turkey, for secularism. This statue is very important to the Turks. They come to take pictures in front of it, you see. Yeah, I see that. They have a real cult for Atat, who has no equal in France. In fact, [Music] that’s the entrance to the cycle path. The population is crazy, there’s an incredible crowd. It’s super dense. Oh, there are a lot of people there. Yeah. What is it? Is it the Champs-Élysées? Yeah, it’s the equivalent of the Champs-Élysées over 1 km. So here it’s very commercial. Yeah. You have all the big brands and then in the adjacent streets, in fact, you have a lot of bars and restaurants and it’s party 24/7. There’s a great atmosphere. Okay. There you go. The taxis next to the taxi stand, that’s quite logical. That said. Well, yes, it’s fine. It goes without saying. Yeah. I have the impression that you’re doing your best. Do you still go back to France from time to time? Of course, I go back to France every year to see my family. I miss France a little. Yeah. What do you miss? Well, cheese, everything. Um, I miss my family and I miss the French regions. France is magnificent. Yeah, but no, I probably won’t go back to France because, no, there’s an energy here. There’s something that makes us move in Istanbul. You see, you like it when things are moving in Istanbul. Very nice play on words, Jérôme. And, uh, I started my own business, I have my little family. Yes. I have a status here that means I’ll probably stay here, I think. Well, there’s no reason, actually, if you succeed, except that you move around, eh. It’s beautiful. It’s pretty. Yeah. So, you see, there are often children hanging on to the back of the train. There you go, look, he’s running after the tram, he’s hanging on. It’s reminiscent of the trams in Lisbon. Do you want an ice cream? No, that’ll do. Thanks. He takes people out like that. The kids, they’re having a blast. She’s she’s brave, huh. Because poor [Music] I, who love ice cream, wouldn’t be patient enough. [Music] Meraba. I made an appointment to visit the suite at Tatque. Of course, wait here. My colleague will arrive. [Music] Hello? Hello and welcome. Nice to meet you, Jérôme, nice to meet you. I am very happy to discover this legendary hotel, which has a reputation that has spread beyond your borders. How long has this hotel existed exactly? The history of the Pé à Palace begins at the end of the 19th century in 1895. Exactly. Why is this hotel so famous? It was the very first luxury hotel in Istanbul. As a result, many distinguished travelers came here for their stay. Like who, like who, uh, Agatha Christi, well, Emperor Franz Joseph, and of course, the father of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, and then princes, princesses, many celebrities. So, I heard that the hotel was created in connection with the Orient Express. Yes, the whole story began with the Westernization of the Ottoman Empire. In the 19th century, many people took the Orient Express and they stayed in Istanbul more and more often. As a result, the Orient Express company bought the hotel. So, the train travelers continued to stay in this hotel. It’s like a time machine when you arrive here. Guests today can feel the atmosphere. Belle époque. Yeah, that’s it. Belle époque. [Music] Here, we kept a sedan chair. Some guests would ask to be picked up at the station and brought to the hotel in this chair. It’s a little claustrophobic for me. Yeah, definitely. It’s a portable phone booth. [Music] We’re on the second floor. Thank you very much. It’s beautiful up there too, huh. Ah, you can see the domes from there. Ah, and this is what it looks like from above. This is room 411. Agy 411. [Music] A lot of important people have stayed in this hotel, but I think in people’s eyes, the most famous is Agatha Christi. Yeah, I think so too. Yeah. Did she write some of her novels here? As far as we know, she wrote part of Murder on the Orient Express here. And as a nod, we left a replica of her famous Underwood typewriter. Okay. It’s really very pretty, huh. There’s a really very special atmosphere in this hotel. [Music] We arrive at Atatur’s museum room. [Music] This room was opened in 1981 to celebrate his 100th birthday. Most of the objects were used by him during his stays at the hotel. Others were generously donated by donors. I’ve seen many representations of Atatur, including this hat. In Istanbul, you see Atatur everywhere. I’ve seen him in markets on phone cases, on necklaces, backpacks. For Turks, he represents so many things. He is not only a leader, but also the founder of modern Turkey. He symbolizes change, freedom, and so many other things. We can’t forget him. This is the room. Yes, that’s it. Or yeah. I imagine that the Turks who come to visit this room must be extremely moved to be in a place where he was physically, to see his objects. Every day, many people visit his room. It’s unthinkable that a Turkish person would n’t be impressed or moved when they enter here. Thank you very much. I find that something happens when you visit this place, and you speak very well of it. So thank you very much. It was a pleasure for me. Thank you, and I’m glad to learn more about Ataturk. [Music] A crossroads of cultures, a thousand-year-old capital, Istanbul is brimming with treasures. For lovers of antiques, it’s an ideal hunting ground. Sometimes you just have to push open a door to discover an Ali Baba’s cave. Hercal, the owner of the place, is an almost compulsive antiquary and collector. His shop is housed in a four-story house where kilims, woven Turkish rugs, occupy a rather special place. These are my treasures: kilims. They come from all regions of the country, and each region has its own specific colors and patterns. [Music] The rarest ones sell for several thousand euros. Ergal collects them with love, just like pottery, porcelain, and typically Turkish objects. We find fewer and fewer antique objects, but when I manage to find some, I try to acquire them, especially when they are Turkish or Ottoman. And this is true even when I am abroad at exhibitions and so on. There’s a real market for it here. Hercal was one of the first to set up in Chukourkuma, the antiques district, 25 years ago. Today, there are more than fifty of them. In some of these stores, you can find everything, like at Ousen, half antique, half second-hand dealer. There’s everything here, even things that children throw away when their parents die because they consider them worthless. I’ve been doing this job for almost 40 years, and I do it my way. For me, all objects have an intrinsic beauty, a particularity, a lived experience. Hussein is currently recovering the furniture he recently bought from a private individual. We have six chairs in total. Most of the items he sells come from owners who want to get rid of certain things. They are quite valuable pieces of furniture . It dates from around 1945 and was made of walnut wood by Greek craftsmen. [Music] Barely unloaded, the table and chairs are already spotted and the negotiations begin immediately. Can you make it for us for €230? For this Istanbul resident who is looking to decorate her apartment, it’s a challenge. It’s like a treasure hunt because you never really know what you’ll find or when you’ll find it. Every time I come to this neighborhood, even if I don’t need anything, I stop and look at what they have. It’s when I least expect it that I find beautiful things. Today is a good day. We took a table and chairs that had just arrived. For amateurs, the treasure hunt continues every Sunday at the market with up to 200 stalls offering vintage or second-hand collectibles. Some are professionals, others come to supplement their income. A former trader specializing in antique toys, he never misses this event. Here we are at Turkey’s largest flea market, which opens every Sunday and welcomes a large number of people. I notice that each week the number of visitors and the number of stalls continue to increase, which is a good thing. The more stalls there are, the more diversity there is for all tastes and budgets. So, we rummage, we examine, we compare, and Nour comes every week, always looking for a good deal. Come on, 50. Come on, be nice to me. You’re new here. This is the first time I’ve seen you. Okay, come on, 50 is fine. Okay. Come on, it’s fine. It’s a ritual. It’s part of the merchandising game. And Nour wanders around aimlessly, but she never leaves empty-handed. This is a special napkin called pêche kir, which used to be used in palaces or amames. I like this one because it has hand-embroidered designs on it. But to get the best deals, enthusiasts go to auctions. Dear friends, we’re starting the auctions. Auctions are an old tradition. Stambouyotte. It’s been traced back to at least the early 1900s. It started with sales of books, manuscripts, old photographs, oil paintings, and so on. Currently in Istanbul, there are about fifteen places that practice auctions. karışmasın arkadaşlar. Dear am uneveuse pipe of origin rus in very good condition var auctions are not reserved for a few initiates they are increasingly popular in Istanbul 25 people else? Adugé sold congratulations we come as much for the atmosphere as for the good deals. Sometimes we are surprised. For example, you will buy an item for a few euros and resell it in an UP district for 100 € some time later. We sometimes find good deals like that. The auctions can last 6 or 7 hours while the auctioneer presents each item. From the most ordinary to the most precious, they will all find buyers that day. [Music] [Music] Hello sir. I come from ine. Ah he is Ah yes of course. He told me you must go see the king of baclava. Ah, so that’s you, apparently. Ah, Ahine is a good friend and also a client. I’m already the 5th generation, I’ve been a chef for 48 years and the owner of my own business. I’d already noticed your success because I saw you making small personalized packages according to nationality. You’re known worldwide. That’s why I receive a lot of foreign customers. They see that and they buy our products to take back to their countries. And those are also baclavas over there. They’re handcrafted baclavas . There’s Atatur and here’s Sultan Mette. If you want, we can go to the manufacturing site to see how the baclavas are made. Oh yeah, I’d love that. [Music] Come on, attention. You do it like this. No one can raise their head until we do it. In our country, it’s impossible to teach the trade to someone who doesn’t respect their chef, their homeland, or their flag. It’s a 600-year-old tradition, a divine salvation that has been practiced here in Caraco since time immemorial. There is no discipline, there can be no success. Let’s get to work, friends. Nadir, you have to understand that baclava is a stacking process. We put different layers of philo dough. Yes, we stack 10 to 40 layers of philo dough. Here, we flatten the dough. [Music] And here, we stack them one by one. Then we add the pistachios. [Music] The basic ingredients for baclava are pistachio, walnut, and butter. [Music] Touch, it’s silk. It’s quite a weapon. I’m going to throw the coin, and if it pierces the dough, it’s because it’s been worked enough. It’s an old practice that dates back to the time of the sultans for 600 years. So, I throw it away. [Applause] It made a hole. Good job. [Music] So now listen to the sound. You can hear the crunch and the syrup doesn’t run. The syrup has been well absorbed. What is this? This is cream. Special cream with pistachio. Oh my, as if there wasn’t enough. You have to drink water. Your mouth. It’s a real ritual. Of course. This is an art. We worked 4 hours to make it. So you have to eat it properly. So here, take it and crunch. [Music] And now 1 2 3 4 5 breathe. And while you breathe, you smell the aroma of pistachio, butter, flaky pastry, philo with the crunch. Ah, it’s great to say thank you and bravo. And now I know why they call it the king of baclava. And that’s also why I’m going to finish it because it’s a treat. Thank you. See you soon. [Music]
[Music] Jérôme, come on, come on. [Music] Wow, it’s a real competitive picnic. Did you bring us anything? Ah, I brought some little sweets, some little baclavas. I hope you’re greedy. Ah, we didn’t have any dessert. There’s a little reserve he rabar. Nice to meet you. So, my mother-in-law Feridé. Feridé. And that’s the little one. The little one. My hello little cork. Hello. Hello Jérôme, nice to meet you. Méica yes Mica. I won’t be able to pronounce with the H. Jérôme, we know each other. How are you, Victor? I’m fine. Thank you for convicting me. It’s great. So I was wondering because it took me about fifteen minutes to get here by taxi. Are we still in Istanbul? Yeah, we’re still in Istanbul. So are we still on the banks of the Bos Fort? Oh no, we’re not on the Boss Fort anymore, we’re in the Sea of Marmara. So, yeah, that’s what precedes the Bossfort. The Bossfor is a little further over there, you see. OK. So, do you often come here as a family to get some fresh air? Yes, from time to time for a change of scenery for the kids, and we go cycling. Victor, he fishes. Oh yeah, from time to time. I saw that you brought your rods afterward. Of course, we’re going fishing afterward. Yeah, cool. So, you brought back a lot of things. There’s dried meat. It’s a bit like the equivalent of sausage, all that, in Turkey. What’s that? That’s cheese. It’s a kind of cheese. Oh yeah, braided. Yeah, it’s funny. There’s really a love for gastronomy in this country and you can see it in the little Turkish bode. The Turks call it the balcony and they say that a man without a balcony is not a man. Okay. Is the balcony in Turkish they say it or is it the correct French? They use the word balcony. Oh, that’s funny. And Victor, how was his integration here? Were the beginnings complicated? At first he had some difficulties but then he integrated well. He learned our culture, our cuisine and also our customs. Well, I have time to eat what. It’s very tempting. [Music] It’s spicy. I like it. I approve. [Music] How nice we are here. Look at the sunset. It’s extraordinary. Well, I think we’re both, look, in the same boat, eh. We’re stuck deep in the rocks. And I don’t blame you. Thank you. I thank you , Victire, it was great. We’ll stop by the fishmonger. We won’t say anything to the girl. [Music] Well, there you go, my intense Istanbul weekend is already over. So, uh, indeed, 3 days is short, huh, to be able to enjoy what this city with its rich past, this bustling city, has to offer. But at the same time, 3 days is more than enough to have a few favorites. So my first favorite is the Hagia Sophia, this marvel that is more than 15 centuries old and is both impressive and surprising. My second favorite is the Baleek Pazaru district, uh, dear to chef Ailine. And then my third favorite is the Prince’s Islands with the island of Kinaliada. Uh, dear also to Janan, this little authentic paradise. A big thank you to those who accompanied me, uh, and especially to my accomplice Victor and his family. Thank you for being by my side, for sharing this weekend with me, and then I ‘ll see you very soon for new beautiful escapes to other faraway lands. You can watch this program again in replay or follow us on social networks. I’ll see you very soon. Take care. Goul goul as we say here. Gulz goulé. Goodbye. [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause]