BEST OF PARIS MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK! Backstage, Front Row, Designers! By Loïc Prigent & Osama Chabbi

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Hold on tight! With Osama Chabbi, we break down every fashion show, meet the top designers, and sneak behind the scenes and into the front rows. AMI! Kenzo! Saint Laurent! Auralee! KOLOR! Louis Vuitton! Hermès! And more! This video is your ultimate guide to understanding the fashion trends that will define next season.

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Directed by Loic Prigent et Osama Chabbi
Filmed with Adrien Privat, Lou Rambert Preiss et Rafaële Nix Secondi
Edited by Suzy Chatellier and Konstantin Maslakov
Sound by Clément Duché
Produced by Natacha Morice and Rafaële Nix Secondi for DERALF (Divertissant Et Révoltant À La Fois)
Post by Julie Lacor
Subtitles by Alix Nonclercq
Contact : deralfproduction@gmail.com
Music: Audionetwork!

Video credit:
(Titre Provisoire)
Dior
Kenzo
Comme des Garçons
Kolor
Junya Watanabe
Patrick Louwerse
Camiel Fortgens
Paolo Pucci
Paul Smith
Tome Eames et Yvonne Zhang
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
The Stimuleye
Dries Van Noten
Baleine sous Cachalot
3.Paradis
Jeanne Friot

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JACQUEMUS IN VERSAILLES!

WILLY CHAVARRIA’S TRIUMPH!

#menswear #report #fashionweek

Hey!
Hey, it’s Osa! I’m a fashion critic. The fashion critic and stylist Osama Chabbi joins me to scan the menswear collections. The trend report, we need a trend report.
All the accessories, all the fabrics, all models. All the details, we open every bag, we scan every fabric, every embroidery. You will know everything.
Everything. We meet with fashion designers. They explain the bags, the shoes, the money makers of this multi-billion business that is luxury menswear. All the trends to inspire you! We talked with Jonathan Anderson from Dior, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Willy Chavarria.
They smell incredible. All the details you didn’t see at Louis Vuitton. TCHOU! TCHOU! The sales are down, so the season is super commercial.
The details are perfected to the max. It’s about satisfying the clients.
Discreet satisfying details. These are cherry charms, all made in Italy. In a world in crisis, this is super comforting fashion to escape it all. It’s summer 2026 on the runway. Scenography. Paris is always the best scenography. Louis Vuitton, an Indian chessboard in front of the Beaubourg Museum, indicating that Pharrel and the studio traveled to three cities in India. A gigantic dice to announce the beginning of the hostilities at LV, Pharrel invites us to play. Hey Beyoncé and Jay-Z, who came to greet Pharrell at Louis Vuitton. Dior by Jonathan Anderson: A replica of a room from Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie, one of the best museum in the world, with just two paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin that had never been united in the same room. Thus articulating Jonathan Anderson’s fascination for the delicacy of the Age of Enlightenment, the 18th century that obsessed Christian Dior. Strawberries, a fresh glass of water. A vase of flowers. Jacquemus: The Orangerie at Versailles. At 3.Paradis, a desert and model slowly walking like broken by a heatwave. And since there was actually a heatwave, it worked. At Issey Miyake, guys lost in the rouleau de tissus. They wander, wander, and paf! Camouflage! Do you see them?
They disappear into fabric! Amiri: a huge, working fountain inside the Carreau du Temple. Camiel Fortgens: The glory of Paris! The Dutch brand invades a simple street, and a Parisian, of course, crashed it with a bike. Move aside fashions! Kenzo: on the Rue Royale and inside the mythical restaurant Maxime’s. Best art deco decoration. Kolor walks inside the courtyard and garden of the Institut National pour les Jeunes Sourds de Paris, a school for deaf kids. Officine Générale is on the rue Jules Chaplain. AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi: Place des Victoires, in a circle. AURALEE under the columns of the Archive National Garden, in the Marais. YSL at the Bourse de Commerce. Wooyoungmi in the garden and the Hôtel Particulier that Karl Lagerfeld rented for 30 years on Rue de l’Université. Rick Owens, a mysterious metallic structure and models diving into the central atrium pool of the Palais de Tokyo. It was a performance! For the first time in recent memory, the Comme des Garçons SHIRT show was late! 13 minutes late! Which is nothing for other brands, but incredibly late for the super punctual Comme des garçons. Complicated hair with the alibi.
And of course, no problems! We noticed the Kartik Research first show in Paris from India. A very Indian cast at Zegna. The Indian inspiration continues at Louis Vuitton, after Pharrel and the Vuitton Menswear Studio did an inspiration trip to India, hence the Maharajesque details. It’s all embroidered in India. It’s actually your hood is your jewelry. The most precious hoodie ever, right?
Exactly. Did you see Indian details in the fashion? I did, it was very intricate, there were a lot of patterns that felt they were inspired and also the massive trunks. They had a lot of work on it. It was really really interesting. Le point sac à main, handbags report! Obviously we’re at Louis Vuitton, so who says ‘LV’ says ‘great bags’. A lot of great bags!
Trunks as usual and hints of embroideries. I’m sure everyone saw the Starship but we saw a very specific one that I’m sure you didn’t see. The Elephant.
Let’s open it now. This is the Elephant. Hard sided, with inside.. a jewelry case. What’s his name? Oh, Dumbo.
Dumbo? Could be. Animal monograms from Wes Anderson’s film The Darjeeling Limited at Louis Vuitton. We found this heritage damier from the archives. We scanned the old trunk. Then, we screen printed Wes’ animals on top. This style is cool because it’s a little hard case that you can put on top of your suitcase. It looks like a Speedy or the Keepall, but it’s extended on the leading edge. The shape is just… Here, the mascot of the season, the frog. So you’ll see him walking around in the collection. And guess what? What color do we have?
Frog green! Another frog!
Check this out. So, all the marbles surfed around the world, creating that multicolor effect that inside we have. Check mate! We have stripes referencing the malles instead of monogrammed this season. We’re super excited about this. It feels very hand-painted, very artisanal. We have the shopper bag, which you know, but we have a new shape for the takeaway. It’s your takeaway bag. Going for a late night takeaway. See, it’s getting a gold feel. It feels very royal treatment. Is it embroidered?
It’s embroidered. Oh la la. I thought it was glitter on my eye, but no.
No, it’s embroidered. They are upcycled leather, left over from the house. We just arbitrarily chose different colors and put them together for a different configuration. Just a little something simple. At Jacquemus, the big news is the Valérie bag. This is the first bag with my mum’s name on it. It’s called the Valérie bag. It’s a 100% leather-lined bag. It’s the new bag we’re promoting and bringing out this season. And of course, everybody has a theory about the leek clutch. We have our leather workshops, so we can experiment, have fun making a leek and turn it into a leek clutch. I always want to have fun.
The collection is always serious, but I want to have that attitude, with humour on the bags and accessories. There are lots of bags. They’re presented in trompe-l’œil crates. Charms! We’ve made a collection of charms that we’ll be showing later. These are cherry charms, made entirely in Italy. The strawberry charms. The Turismo becomes rosemary, with a rosemary leather thread. We have handmade straw. The crochet Turismo, which I think is sublime. The little Salon clutch bags, which have become an important bag for us. It’s become a berlingo with an orange trompe-l’oeil. These are some of the company’s flagship models, as is the Bambino, which has been transformed with this frame. This is a trompe-l’oeil of ostrich leather, which isn’t ostrich leather at all. This is hammered. I’m a fan of Jean-Michel Frank. So I wanted to make a bag with a gouge. I think it’s really beautiful. A wooden trompe l’oeil. These are unique pieces. Braided. Grained.
Fake crocodile. DDDDior! Jonathan Anderson does his first show, hence his first Dior bags. The Dior Book Tote is revisited. I always thought the Book Tote was a genius bag, because everyone thinks it’s canvas where it’s not. We probably don’t explain it right. It is entirely embroidered by a machine which is kind of phenomenal. I was trying to work out a way to reinvent it because I think it’s a great bag. Dior by Dior is the book that he had done.
I love the cover of it. I was trying to work out how do I start in this brand. I was thinking it’s French, Irish.
How do we merge it? So, I picked French and Irish titles. Which one is the Irish title? Dracula!
Dracula is Irish? Bram Stoker. He was Irish, I didn’t know.
Yeah. Exactly. I didn’t know when I was younger. I never knew until I walked past a building and it says “Bram Stoker lived here”. Okay. Where? In Dublin?
Yeah. That is where that came from. And a Lady Dior by artist Sheila Hicks. We did an amazing bag with Sheila Hicks. I’ve been trying to convince Sheila Hicks to work for me for ages. I said: “Look, this is my first show.” This is an artwork that I’ve always loved. There’s one at MoMA.” She’s never done anything with anyone. So, she took the Lady Dior and made it into little sheep. At Dries Van Noten a huge colorful bowling bag for the weekend. The IT sneaker becomes an IT bag in pink satin, please. EGONlab does the biniou, the bagpipe from Britanny as a designer bag. Large canvas bags at Hed Mayner. A bag for the lemons life gives you at Paul Smith. Or oranges! A paper bag will do it at Martine Rose or a cute chained bag or this ruffly mauve thing. Footwear report! So usually the styling at LV is very flashy. This season, the LV man is a little bit more corporate, chic, and laid back. He’s wearing flip-flops. Quite surprising, but I’m into it. The shoe that Pharrell Williams wore at the Met Gala 2025 is returning as is, or re-embroidered like a Marajas. So we did the LV jazz because he wanted something more elegant for the Met and based on that, because he loved it, he asked us to develop more categories. We have LV jazz loafers. The loafer derby, suede.
We have the Yeti. We have the LV bubble. Same thing for hiking, we wanted something a bit retro, not tech hiking, more like the 90s. And LV tilted, let’s say that it’s one of the first requests from Pharrell. He was really: “I want a sneaker that I would like to wear. I’m really into the skate spirit.” Half stones! How to do India inspiration without stones. Super important. There is a flip-flop overload. The flip-flops, the LV flip, left and right. You don’t know the difference between the right and the left. At 3.Paradis, a collaboration with…
A collaboration with Weston. Weston! And at Willy Chavarria, a collaboration with the mythical French shoemaker, Charles Jourdan. The loafer is a must! And this is the loafer that we just saw. It’s this beautiful dark brown eel skin with the original little Charles Jordan logo. Archive!
I know. They smell incredible. This beautiful shoe.
Wow, the goat. So this has been shot by Guy Bourdin, technically. Technically yes, the original model of this shoe. Thibo Denis from Vuitton and formally Dior collaborates with Birkenstock. This being the mule. Here, we started to think of more dynamic lines and more sporty lines, in the idea of the tooling. For me, the most important was to make sure that it looked like a Birkenstock, to keep the mules with laces. Do I wear it with socks or without socks? I would always wear it with socks, but you can of course wear it without socks because the thread is unlined. Sandals, flip-flops at Officine Générale. Business safari! While ties were an absolute office necessity, flip flops are now joining the ride. Flip flops with tuxedos and 3 piece suits, flips flops for adventurous business affairs. On the rise this season, utilitarian suiting with light footwear for those who see cities as the real jungles. A corporate safari that re-explores cargos and sahariennes with smart dressing and flip flops! The tie is in! Hed Mayner. So in, it’s twisted and tucked inside the shirt at Saint Laurent. What the f*ck, did you see that?
The tie tucked in. Now, I need it all. I haven’t worn a tie in a long time, so it’s nice to be back in one. So in, Dunhill is ready to make one billion euros out of their perfect tie business. All the looks had a tie at their fashion show. Large ugly tie at Vivienne Westwood. Remember the ugly shoe trend? This is the ugly tie trend! Or it’s stuck in the belt and that is all the wrong places. The color palette! Natural dyes at Kartik Research, a first fashion show in Paris. What we do is actually work with natural dyes, taken from trees and plants. If you see brown or deep reds, those are like tree bark and then mixed with iron to get a little bit darker. Like a block print! We have this sample. It’s a great shirt.
From a distance, it looks like a regular check shirt, but the closer you look, it looks really fantastic, top print. The actual production can be 10% darker, 10% lighter, we have no control over it because it’s down to plants. That’s where it took a while for our stores that we worked with, to get used to that. But now, they know what to expect. Even this piece itself, if it’s kept in the sun or just worn regularly for six months, it’s going to look very different six months later than it does right now. At Willy Chavarria, it’s heaven for colors. It’s not blue, it is factory blue. It’s not red. It’s North Korean red. You don’t believe us? Listen to Willy Chavarria himself. With him, colors are political. The first thing I did is: I sat with my team and we talked about the state of the world. Because, it’s always the political state that dictates how we are feeling. I really started to reference the colors of factory workers and thinking about countries that are led by dictators and countries with communism and thinking about that color palette. And the color palette, when we pulled it together, actually started to look like a Guy Bourdin color palette, which was amazing. Guy Bourdin is a cult fashion photographer from the 1970s and 1980s. He actually shot the Charles Jourdan advertising campaigns. As the world has become darker, this was a time to really turn the tables and go hard with the color, really accentuate the personality and to use the color as a form of rebellion. At Jeanne Friot, it’s not colors, it is a flag. We started with the trans flag. We’re only showing trans and non-binary models this season. For me, it was really a tribute to my community. I really needed to give them strength, love and visibility at that moment. I designed a tartan in the colours of the flag. It’s a mix between the original flag and the flag that was superimposed afterwards, with the colour black. It was important for me to have both. I worked with different colours.
We also have scarves. And there’s also this piece I call the flag. It’s a jacket and a skirt that make up the flag. Everything is the flag! That was the starting point. We took it and I thought, “How can we make flags everywhere?” And these baby blue and baby pink are visible too on other runways like Feng Chen Wang and Kolor by Taro Horiuchi. What is the colour palette? For me, it’s a collection that goes from sand to sun, with browns, mastics, chocolate, greys with touches of mint green and vanilla. We have fun with the names of the colours. Guests dazzled by the colors at Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. The color! I love the colors!
The colors were amazing! The colors are crazy.
The moment of colors, frankly, I was like: “Wow! Mustard, powder pink, prune. It was very Saint Laurent. But Osa, what are the trends? Heatwave yellow!
Temperatures are rising this season, yellow is having yet another scorching moment with a color palette reminiscent of the blazing sun. The thermometer is going up, warm yellow is here.
Heatwave yellow! From mustards, to bright sunflower yellow, mixed with warmer shades of orange, this isn’t your average sunset, this is sun at its absolute peak! Happy yellow nonetheless that smells of optimism. And we saw a literal banana at Doublet and at Charles Jeffrey loverboy! Banana as pendant.
Or keychain. The tiger pattern at Kenzo and full tiger motif at Bluemarble. Deep dive, refreshing colors, the blue at the bottom of the pool. On the opposite spectrum, bright blues were a great refreshment to fight the heat this season. Think the deep blue at the bottom of the pool and cool water, irresistibly fresh and clean. Freshness is clearly the new SPF. Guadeloupean ice creams in cones or cups at C.R.E.O.L.E. New colors. This one is inspired by a water ice cream that we call the Frozen in Guadeloupe. What’s the flavour?
It’s mint and pomegranate. It has the notion of diffusion of the two flavours. This season, we’re starting to crop the fishing nets a bit, because it’s good to have them long, but it’s even better to have them short. Show the back! Matcha, caramel, citronelle at AMI. Did you see the colors? It’s beautiful, isn’t it? Lots of matcha at Bluemarble.
Pronounce, Zegna. How do you call this color?
Tannin, like the wine. At RIER, a new brown, a new pale buttery blonde. This is butter, because we’re still staying at the farm. And this is ‘daim’. Like the animal, the deer. Fog. You have Avio. In Italian, it’s a bit like aviation. It’s kind of a celestial grey. Wine by the pool! Somewhere between a crushed berry and a glass of red wine that has warmed up in the sun. Think hibiscus shades and plums, rising as the new alternative to brown. It’s not burgundy, it’s prune. It’s no cherry, it is wine o’clock from Saint-Laurent to Lemaire. It’s always a good time for Cassis. Green, green, green!
Brown and beige at Auralee, layering colors. Flower power on LSD at Craig Green. The idea is to escape the real! Pink and gray at Dior, the two favorite colors of Christian. We witnessed the rise of BCBG fashion at Dior, knits on shoulders, and lifted collars. Collar rebellion, from maximalist collars on bare skin at Sean Suen to flying collars at EGONlab,but also, collars are unconventional this season. They come in all shapes and forms, and even in the shape of roses at KidSuper. Versailles-like neck braces at Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior. These are collars. There’s reinforcement inside, a horsehair that you can touch, which is covered with a satin on the bias. Why is this? So that there are no seams. There are no seams here. There are no seams here, when you lift. Because the bias sits very well on the shaped materials. Then we have the pleated bow like this, in satin. This is adjusted with small hand-embroidered straps. So there’s a first adjustment and a second adjustment. Is it all done here?
Yes, it’s made here! We were so proud when we got to the end and Jonathan loved it. And super practical if you have a bad habit of scratching your nose. The best way to quit is this outfit by Issey Miyake. And hop!
Impossible to touch your own face anymore. Heritage stripes! This season, stripes are for the traveler, the globetrotter, stripes are for those who dare step out in their PJs, stripes to chill, stripes for hours in the Orient Express, stripes for the lavish dandy. A new stripe style is on the rise, stripes that look lived in, striped head to toe and in little touches like Saint Laurent. But also, colorama stripes at Graig Green and at Dries Van Noten, where they used dead stock of fabrics they had in the cellar. So it’s Antique Jacquard, a strong personality. All day PJs! After the stripes comes the PJ and in recession times everything needs to be repurposed. We found out, while working on this collection, that actually the pyjama comes from India and it was made for day wear.
It was worn during the day. When it was brought to the Western world, it became an evening wear. So, it was quite interesting to bring it back to something that we would wear to go out. That’s a classic jacquard stripy fabric. PJs for date night, PJs to take the plane, or PJs go to brunch. But also, PJ’s to travel light, or simply, PJ to the office. This season, PJ are the new must have and they better be a set. Paired with your favorite sneakers at Wales Bonner, it’s a collab with Y3. PJs are worn under light striped coats at Dries and layered under blazers at Saint Laurent. What to wear for the beach in 2026? A matcha bathing suit and a basket for your sandwich at noon at the Cap Ferret. A deep neckline tank top.
A death in Venice bathing suit. Fantastic tanning lines on the front and on the back with this bathing suit at Vivienne Westwood. With Saul Nash cool tan lines that you can adjust. Or a creative mesh tan line at Hermès. Woven and perforated, in fact! It’s really strips of leather that we’ve woven together to give air and to reformulate shirts, T-shirts and strips on trousers. For me, it was a new way of having leather in the summer, leather in the city. I thought it was a new proposition.
I’m very happy with the result. A mini tank top from Niccolo Pasqualetti or a suggestive swimsuit. At 3 Paradis, there’s a collab with Vilebrequin. It’s really a dove taking off into the heavenly sky, into this world that we’ve created together with Vilebrequin. And always, behind it, with the famous collaborative label that I love. We’re swimming in peace here!
Exactly! All over printed flowers at Hed Mayner. All over flowers embroideries at Dries Van Noten. All over flowers on jackets at Junya Watanabe. Junya Watanabe who also prints an Elizabeth Peyton painting. And the touristic places you want to visit. Trippy flashy cool prints at Paul Smith. Hoods to hide, hoods to have your own space, hoods to disappear, hoods to certainly avoid your work colleagues on a night out. Hoods that zip up to the top for the little Demna in you that wants bright light yet secrecy. The hoodie that becomes a very holy halo at EGONlab. Oversized polos at Dior and at Vivienne Westwood and at Celine’s first show by Michael Rider. Accessories! Saw at Officine Générale by Pierre Mahéo, cord as belt. Also a cord as a belt at Auralee. A leather glasses holder. Super glittery glasses at Craig Green. A large scarf as sari. The badge that Julian Klausner, the new artistic director at Dries Van Noten, keeps wearing even when he takes a bow, just in case security doesn’t recognize him yet and jumps on him. At Martine Rose, you just hold a T-shirt. Lemaire puts mysterious necklaces for men back on the map. Even beads or Gua Sha forks for massaging your face and sculpting your jaw. Favorite accessory, the tube of paint as a necklace for the artist. Signaling and diluted creativity. Hats to surprise! While hats are my absolute yearly must have. Fashion wouldn’t be fashion without a little perversion. This season hats come in all shapes and forms, in the most surprising one and almost seem out of cartoon. Hats as real conversation starters, hats as icebreakers, at Sean Suen, hammer hats are in. At KidSuper, they’re flowers in desperate need of water. At EGONlab, they’re layered on top of a crocheted piece for comfort. At Walter Van Beirendonck, they are adorned with artificial flowers because they last longer. The giant baseball caps from Comme des Garçons Homme Plus with their mammoth hair. In Rei Kawakubo’s mind, it’s the hat of the shaman who will save us all from war and greed. The most charming simple basket-like woven hat by Setchu. Staging and politics. GMBH in Berlin starts with 58 seconds of silence in tribute to Gaza before the show. At Comme des garçons SHIRT, non-toxic garçon is written on the back of the redingote by the hand of the artist Dan Perjovschi. World hope, people power. Jeanne Friot writes ‘Trans Lives Matter’ on her militant t-shirt. The Etudes Studios guys tell you alternatives are possible, and they were actually wearing it. “Don’t tag me” says the t-shirt at Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, meaning leave me out of your digital loop. ‘Parasite’ at undercover. ‘Stand by me’, pleads Yohji Yamamoto. Junya Watanabe prints the portrait by Munch of Hans Jaeger, the radical anarchist activist, nihilistic writer and philosopher of free love, who attacked capitalism, religion, morality. Drama of the season!
Lots of blues and lots of beige at Giorgio Armani. So all is good! But no, Mr. Armani did not take a bow this season. Instead, it was a much respected Léo Dell’orco, head of design for the men’s collections. But we hear Giorgio Armani is still micromanaging every button in the company. Believe us! There you go! Voila, this was our report about the menswear season in Paris for summer 2026. We have full videos about the Dior show by Jonathan Anderson, Willy Chavarria, Jeanne Friot, AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi, Balenciaga Haute Couture, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Write: “Now I feel naked” if you got till the end in the comments. And now, cheers!