Naples & the Amalfi Coast: Tourism, at What Cost?

With its towering cliffs and villages perched high on mountain slopes, like eagles’ nests, the Amalfi coast epitomises the Dolce Vita. It became fashionable in the 1950s, visited by Jackie Kennedy and Sophia Loren, and it has never gone out of style.

The Amalfi coast depends on tourism, which provides 90% of its revenue. But not everyone welcomes the arrival of the tourists. Costanzo finds the crowds insufferable, but he has no intention of leaving the island. He is a devout Christian and is the guardian of a small church high up in the hills of Capri. It is a refuge away from the masses.

Franco has managed to find the perfect balance. He makes his money from the tourists, but doesn’t have to deal with the crowds. His restaurant sits in a secluded cove which is not accessible by road. It’s pure luxury, even if it involves somewhat complex logistics. He travels by boat to buy supplies, he picks up holidaymakers from boats at sea, and offers a boat-taxi service to take his customers back.

Only a happy few have access to these isolated coves. Most of the tourists have to compete to find their own little patch of sand. Private beaches dominate the coastline, but a local collective are fighting to take some of the beach back for public use.

Director: Céline Missoffe
Original title: Naples & the Amalfi Coast: La Dolce Vita ?

A jewel of southern Italy. 30 kilometers of mountainside villages and cliffs jutting out into the sea. The Amalfi coast lies on steep and rugged terrain, and it is difficult to access. People here had to adapt, like 57-year-old Franco. He is a local. And a restaurant owner in a hurry. Today, he has to stock up on groceries. It’s 9am and his kitchen staff are waiting for him to start with lunch service. On top of that, the owner refuses to serve frozen products. The menu is made with simple fresh produce. Tomatoes, lemons, parsley, and some campagna. Go,
go. Thank you. After quickly loading the boat, they head south, to the region’s most exclusive restaurant. For deliveries, it’s only accessible by sea. A ten minute boat trip. On the way, the owner takes the opportunity to promote his business. The old fashioned way. Good morning! See you later, Tonnarella! Later! Michele! Michele! I’ll let you come back later. Because, you know, some clients say, who is that crazy guy? He eats well there. That’s why I shout. He eats well. He tries to attract wealthy holidaymakers who can afford local prices. The Amalfi coast is a popular destination for the wealthy. Franco’s restaurant is unique, renowned for its authenticity. It’s nestled at the foot of a cliff in this little cove. It’s a former home port for coastal tuna fishermen. His establishment is located in this simple pink house. It was built by his grandfather long before the tourist boom and has been run as a family guest house ever since. Salvador is the second. Then there is Mrs Rosetta, who is in charge of the fish cleaning. Then there is the assistant cook, Umberto. This is Jack Lee, who was a slave in 1962. He came to the beach, to the village of Conca, and sometimes came here to have lunch with his wife. The wealthy Italian Dandy and the future head of Fiat. Thanks to the first Lady, the Amalfi coast became a glamorous destination. Emblematic of la dolce Vita, these breathtaking landscapes between Positano and Vietri sul Mare have charmed the greatest film stars. Like Sophia Loren or Gina Lollobrigida. Today, Emily Ratajkowski or Kylie Jenner spend their holidays here, as do over one million tourists who come to discover the beauty of Amalfi, the town that gave its name to the Amalfi Coast, or the town of Ravello, where the cult classic movie Sissy, starring Romy Schneider, was shot. To get to this small, landlocked territory, which is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one must take this narrow and winding road. In summer, there’s heavy traffic. Local authorities try to reduce traffic jams without any success. Off the Amalfi coast lies an even more posh and exclusive island, Capri, the place of the jet-set lifestyle. A breathtaking place with its famous blue grotto, yachts, luxury boutiques and wild nights for VIPs. That’s the glitz and glam. But for less affluent tourists, Capri is much less of a dream. Thousands of people to make manoeuvres to the cars. This is the most difficult thing. For locals like Costanzo, summer is synonymous with overcrowding. So this devout Catholic escapes the crowds to take refuge in his little church. And this is chaos. Chaos and then silence. Around 30 kilometers away is Naples, the capital of the Campania region. It is also on the verge of being overrun by tourists. On the beaches, which are usually private and therefore have an entrance fee, people are protesting. The revolt is in full swing. Some Neapolitans don’t hesitate to force their way into beach resorts and demand to regain access to otherwise free beaches. A lively trip to southern Italy. Back at Franco’s Little Cove restaurant. It’s time for the tourists to come. They all arrive by boat. This wealthy clientele, 80% of them foreigners, are entitled to in-house valet parking. It’s beautiful, I can’t believe it. And you have to get here by boat? It’s really cool. Despite the difficult access, every day in summer, Franco’s restaurant is fully booked. Three,
seven, five. Five. Cinque.
Sete le mettiamo. Sette qua. Cinque qua. His recipe for success is simple. One hundred percent local and authentic dining. Plastic chairs and a good natured owner who likes to season the holiday maker’s dishes, table side. Okay.
You have five. The kitchen cooks unpretentious dishes for around 30 euros. Swordfish in olive oil, sea bream, spaghetti with clams or gnocchi, and, above all, the house bestseller, the famous Jackie Kennedy Pasta. I taught my uncle how to make this, my uncle, my grandfather, and then… It’s a family dish and we go… I can’t remember the exact number. How many times do you think you’ll make this dish in a station? It’s a bit impossible to give you a precise number, but…
Surely more than 4,000 dishes. Table 2. Is because he and his family have six months to make their sales for the year. It’s smooth and like it has a bunch of different flavors all in one, so it tastes really good all together. From April to October, the tourist season is exhausting, particularly since the end of service. Always comes with a catch. This time, to get home, the owner has to take a hidden, challenging route. It’s a 100-metre climb to reach the road at the very top of his establishment. 687 degrees, but the heat, but I like it, see all this that you see in me? Every evening I go up and then also a little viagra. Ten minutes of exercise. At least it keeps the body in shape. Arrived. Just five more minutes on scooter and Franco is finally home. On the Amalfi coast, nature has been protected. No high-rise buildings, however, plenty of hotels, often high-end ones, built on incredible locations. Like this one, a dizzyingly beautiful establishment. At the beginning of April, the hotel is preparing to reopen its doors after winter. Inside, a charming old-fashioned decor with traditional southern Italian maiolica, and just over a hundred beautiful rooms, all with sea views. From 600 to over 2,000 euros a night. Outside are endless flights of stairs. Making the employees work up a sweat. A James Bond style setting on more than ten floors. These American tourists from Ohio venture into the depths of the hotel using an elevator carved into the rock. 100 meters below, Bruce, a retired engineer, and his sister, Chris, enter a labyrinth. This tunnel at sea level is over 100 meters long, alternating between open passages and going under the rock. I want to climb on the rocks, cutting through all of this rock to do this. A maze carved out of limestone, it’s very solid and ideal for construction. Well, maybe not so much. No. So American. At the end of the tunnel, Bruce and Chris arrive at the hotel’s beach club. The best view of the Rocky Spurs. Look at the mountaintops up here. I can’t believe somebody built… I decided to build here. It’s amazing. For swimming, there’s the pool, which will open soon. But Bruce is more in the mood for a dip in the sea, even if it means risking being swept away. By the rough Mediterranean Sea. Woo! The Amalfi coast remains a steep, landlocked territory. To get there, there’s just one road, the famous Statale 163, also known as the Amalfi Drive. Its hairpin turns and sinuous curbs on the mountainside are the playground of Giorgio, King of Honking. For the past 15 years, he’s been transporting locals and tourists on his bus, which operates between Amalfi and Sorrento. He doesn’t really like sharing the road with careless drivers, especially when the road gets narrow. It’s not an unexpected thing, because they know with the right windows, the air conditioning, the windows are right, They don’t hear anything, they don’t hear anything, you know?
They are the idiots of Sunday, you see?
Look at the situation. Look at the situation. It’s a job, but I don’t want to. In the back, passengers have to hold on tight, especially when the weather’s nice, since Giorgio’s bus is packed full with people. So,
I had a bad luck today. It’s also a bit dangerous with you, this time. Very dangerous, yes.
Go to hell! Giorgio’s in his element. He’s even putting on a show. Hello,
hello! How do you invest this year? Well,
I’m going to buy some clothes. I’m going to the office, tell them… .it’s. Too late. While Giorgio gets through the traffic with a round of applause, the problem remains that during high season, the Statale 163 is taken by storm. Over 15,000 cars a day. La dolce vita takes a beating. Welcome to the Amalfi Ring Road. What do you think about all this traffic? I think it’s too much. It’s hard. It’s hard, yeah. Especially, the spaces are very narrow. And like in Texas, everything’s big. After waiting in traffic jams, they still have to park. And spaces are hard to come by. The parking lots fill up quickly. There’s one more surprise on this tricky road. Holidaymakers can also cross paths with municipal policemen Stefano and Giuseppe. Sunglasses, open shirt and shiny gold chain. And 17 years of service on Statale 163 around Amalfi. Stop on the right side there. Ah, this is yours. Yeah, 87 euro, yeah, if you pay in five days, there is a discount of 30 percent. Yeah, okay, you pay 60 euro and 90 cents. Allowed to drive again, and you can drive for today, yeah. The policeman has to enforce a new regulation, which is turning into a real headache, to reduce traffic jams during busy periods on even numbered days. Only tourists with odd numbered license plates can use the road, and vice versa. However, the information didn’t reach many drivers. The fines are raining down. The people must be warned. If you walk in Amalfi, you will be fined. Let’s go. Is it the sign? Yes,
I saw it. I saw it. Yes, I saw it. Large signs have indeed been installed. However, they aren’t at the entrances and exits to the Amalfi Coast, but only around the town of Amalfi, something even Giuseppe complains about. In short, you guide me, and you guide me better than me. We are lucky because we work, and we have the sea for a minute. So after a little bit of a lot, now you come to relax? Yes,
yes, after so much blasphemy! Despite the insults, the Amalfi coast still feels like paradise. 60 kilometers away is Naples, another lively must-see destination of southern Italy. 4 million visitors come every year to this capital of the Campania region to taste, as people say, the best pizzas on the peninsula, to discover the architectural wonders of the so-called city of 500 domes, to soak in the city’s unique atmosphere. Where Patron Saint San Gennaro and Neapolitan Soccer God Diego Maradona are equally revered. And, of course, in summer, to sunbathe in the Mediterranean in this unique bay overlooking Mount Vesuvius. However, the dozen or so beaches in Naples are mostly private if there are parasols and sun beds on the beach. It’s a private resort and therefore has an entrance fee. These Neapolitans are outraged. They refuse to pay their money. The leader of the revolt is 52-year-old Mario, manager of a bicycle store. With his Mare Libero collective, he decided to reclaim the beaches. It all kicks off in front of Naples Town Hall, wearing swimsuits and playing a game of beach volleyball on asphalt, as a symbol of a confiscated coastline. Mario has no intention of stopping there. In a few days time, he’ll be reclaiming one of Naples’ most popular private beaches. In the beautiful Pozzilipo district is the Bagnos Serena, over 100 meters long, with 150 sunbeds and parasols, priced at 30 euros for two people. A money-making machine managed for almost a century by Maria’s family. You have two choices. You can stay here on the private beach and you pay 30 euros for two sunbeds and one umbrella. Or, if you want, you can go on the free side and you can go there for free. OK.
I’ll accompany you. Despite the price, these two French tourists didn’t hesitate for long. We prepared here because there are a lot less people. There are a lot of people in a very small space. Clearly, that’s not enough. Maria has to put up with her neighbors and their garbage. Because the only access to this public beach, located right in the heart of town, is through her establishment. More specifically, by this little wooden path that she built. She also put up these signs. But even so, she still has to remind people herself. Gentlemen, you have to stand here. You’re lucky. Follow the path. Come on, guys. The beach isn’t quite full yet. Tomorrow is Saturday, June 2. It will be the worst. For tomorrow, we’ll take… Maria’s cousin Raimondo isn’t chasing customers, it’s because their business model beats all competition. They pay 4,000 euros a year in rent to run this stretch of coastline. They earn this figure from renting out sunbeds in less than two weeks. I think it should be appropriate to our times, because it’s a figure that goes back to many years ago. And we would also be willing to pay more. This stretch of the beach was granted to their family in 1892. At that time, the coastline was not yet attracting crowds. The Italian government was encouraging the development of seaside leisure activities. Since then, their license has been constantly renewed at a derisory price. However, this may soon be the end of the goose that lays the golden eggs. A European directive requires this sector to be opened up to free competition. Resorts will have to be put out to tender. Maria finds this unacceptable. Are you afraid of having to go to the public bath? I’m more afraid of having to leave something that has been managed by the family. I’ve been here for millions of years and you want to take everything away from me? Maybe you should do it in a regular manner. Don’t look at me. In the meantime, it’s 5.30pm, end of the day in the resort. Maria closes the beach. At the same time, her employees are throwing out beachgoers away from the public beach. In the evening, it’s impossible to get there. Maria is in charge of closing the access to both beaches. It won’t reopen until the following morning. They have the luck to be able to breathe when they find someone here who is about to close. Come on, go. They set off for Bagno Sirena, with the aim of disturbing the calm of this warm June afternoon. Equipped with a megaphone, Mario wants to convince the Neapolitans to join the fight. The activist cries out. But is met with the public’s indifference. We demand the opening of other public beaches. If the private ones give up their pieces of the beach, they can decide whether to let them in or not. After the initial surprise, his arguments get the point across. The guys seem very sensitive, as you have seen. We just hope they dare to kiss. The only solution would be to make everything public. I want to be free. His arguments fall on deaf ears. However, it isn’t enough to discourage Mario. Next stop, the Fortress of Banio Elena, right next door. The objective is to cross the private beach with rows of sunbeds and to reach the tiny public beach. But things are going to get complicated. This time, the entrance to the resort is padlocked. The owner of the Elena bathroom is bound to keep this gate open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in the summer. As you can see, the gate is closed. We are knocking and no one opens it. It’s a bit of a megaphone, sorry. We give you the immediate opening of this gate, in an abusive and illegitimately closed manner. No response. So the group decides to take a tougher approach. Since the gate is closed, the access gate to the beach, let’s go and try to give it a finger. At least you’re bothering him, you know? No,
we can put ourselves in front of the gate, that… We break the box for people who normally have to enter, so we give them a little trouble. A little further up, the activists come across a closed gate again. They decide to force their way in. They invade the beach, to the amazement of the customers. We are not here to disturb the bathers who paid! The private ones! But not to take over the beach, which is a resource for everyone! They’re winning the public over in this location, too. Yes,
it’s an abuse for our citizens. It’s not good, it’s anti-constitutional, it’s contrary to our regulations. We killed him! The battle is over! On their little patch of public beach, going for a swim has a taste of freedom and victory. However, it will take a lot more for things in Naples to actually change. Between Bagno Elena and Bagno Sirena stands Palazzo Donana, an original seaside palace dating back to the 17th century. Today, it’s a rather unique condominium, envied for its unbeatable location. On the upper floors, the finest apartments are owned by the Very rich. Like Lia Ruma, a wealthy 74-year-old art dealer. Every morning, when she’s not on a trip to New York or Milan, Lia enjoys her coffee, served on a silver tray, in the company of her faithful assistant Isabella. I was left breathless, obviously. I would like to live in a castle, but I am forced to put, I don’t say a few things, but to make a choice every time, because, no matter how big the house is, it is not easy. With only 300 square meters, Lear could indeed only fit out a modest double living room, a chilling atmosphere, with this giant flower pot, four cozy bedrooms, feng shui decor for better sleep, and this small dining room just waiting to be used as a private dining area. As you can see, this house has no pretenses. It’s a very simple house, it’s intact, a bit like I was, I only did small things. With a slight egocentric touch. In total, around 60 people live in the palace. The lower floors are home to more modest Neapolitans. Like Roberto, who knows all the ins and outs, this retired architect is something of a guardian of the palazzo’s history. In fact, there’s life beneath the palace’s founding pillars. A kayak club, back from a sea trip. Or artists who reside here. Oh, show me your door. Yeah. Wow.
I’m just… On the second floor, Roberto runs a foundation dedicated to architecture, in this room, once used as a theatre. In the 17th century, Naples was one of Europe’s great cities, a place of arts and music. The palazzo was nicknamed the Palace of Pleasures. The palazzo has been a symbol of Naples ever since. It’s about to undergo a big change, a complete facelift costing over 6 million euros, financed largely by public subsidies. At 35, Eduardo is in charge of this vast renovation site. Together with Elena, a young restorer, they are returning color back to this mural. Above all, the entire facade needs to be consolidated. Like all of Naples, the palace was built on a volcanic sedimentary rock, particularly sensitive to erosion, called tuff. Between a conch and another. Our job in this case is, where it is necessary, to restore the conches of the tuff to create a flat surface. In six months, the palace should be free of its scaffolding and restored to its former splendour. A short distance from the palazzo, just 45 minutes by boat from Naples, is Capri, Pearl of the Mediterranean. An island of rugged natural beauty renowned for millennia. Already in ancient times, it was a haven for Roman emperors, today it’s the island of the jet-set lifestyle. With yachts and famous brands boutiques, it’s an epicenter of extreme luxury. Here, one can find the biggest brand names in couture and jewelry on the planet. However, for ordinary people, arrival in Capri is less glamorous. They arrive by ferry as a crowd. Up to 20,000 tourists come here every day. That’s more than double the island’s population. Barely off the boat, they have to queue for a taxi. The port of Marina Grande quickly resembles a fair or a hen house. Luckily, Antonio is there to keep things in order. This traffic controller has special equipment. Plastic toys and alarm sounds. He has to make himself. Enough to be understood by all nationalities. Return home with the voice. Paid 1,250 euros a month by the taxi company, Antonio’s job is, above all, to keep tourists happy while waiting under the heat. The line has hardly moved since we’ve been in line. It’s been horrible. Attention! Antonio gives it his all. It’s enough to brighten some people’s day. She’s so sweet, such a good energy. After waiting, sometimes even more than an hour, the vacation begins in one of Capri’s unique taxis. Convertible in funky colors, it’s enough to immerse visitors into another world. Definitely gives like the Capri vibe to tourists especially, but I really like it. Dolce Vita Spirit is a real hit. A world where everything is beautiful and cool, but also expensive. 20 euros for a five-minute ride to the center of Capri. At this viewpoint, tourists take selfies or come to have a drink on the famous Piazzetta Umberto, Capri’s tiny main square. Gianluigi grew up here. In Capri, we are very few. We grew up here, we are few, we know each other a little bit. And then we have this particularity that even if we see each other a hundred times, we greet each other a hundred times. The edible part, the part that you eat, is that white one. There is no this one, you don’t eat it. So,
good day. Then he heads off to the fishmongers. Ah,
nice. I want to buy a nice fish. So,
from the shop, these are the fish. Ok, ok.
Pezzogna, a nice, pezzogna. Ok.
Ah, nice. And then,
the spigo. Then there are some bluefish, a nice redfish, and a nice redfish. Ok, it’s very fresh. You know what? We are used to it. When I was a child, my dad would go fishing directly. Fish.
We really ate fish as soon as we caught them. So when we come here, we have the same standards. I come back a bit as a child. A whole whiting. Bye. Thank you. With this, Gianluigi has enough to recharge his energy before the long night ahead. At 9pm, the Party King gets ready to hit the dance floor. In his club, he manages around 20 employees, and tonight, the guest list is particularly full. 150 people have already booked a table, with the first expense being a bottle of champagne priced at 400 euros. For that price, the party has to be absolutely top notch. At the age of 75, Costanzo was there. In the days of Guido, Gianluigi’s father, a one-of-a-kind musician who created this temple of celebration, known far beyond the borders of Capri. Outside, the crowds are already pouring in. The entry is exclusive. Rudolf, the Franco-Italian bouncer, has seen the biggest stars come and go. Here we have Caprae Doc, the biggest VIP of this world. An example on the photos, there is Beyonce, there is Tyson, there is Arthman, the biggest of this world. All this attracts more customers and keeps the story of the place going. Like Matilde and her friends, they came from the north of Italy for the thrill of an exclusive night out. They paid 60 euros per person, a substantial expense for these Italians. At this price, Gianluigi guarantees a unique show. In his club, there’s no DJ, but a live band. Gianluigi is responsible for both the singing and the atmosphere. For five hours without stopping, he will be playing great classics of Neapolitan and Italian music. A lively, retro and easygoing atmosphere that will win over foreigners and Italians alike, like Matilda and her girlfriends. The
highlight of the show is not a young go-go dancer, but shirtless Costanzo. An amusing tease with his sense of humor. And the audience is asking for more. Tomorrow, Gianluigi and Costanzo will be back on stage for another lively show. They do this six days a week during the six-month-long tourist season. A world away from Saturday night fever. In mid-may, Capri celebrates its Patron saint, San Costanzo. His statue, weighing almost a ton, is carried through the streets of the town by hand. Following tradition, it is covered with broom petals. Costanzo is the island’s most popular first name. In the crowd is this 38-year-old devout Catholic who has also inherited it. Today, Costanzo and his wife, Lorenza, fear that their island is losing its spirit to mass tourism. They live in this pretty white house in the hills above Capri. A qualified accountant and a sales assistant, they are a middle-class couple with two children. The reason they have managed to live here comfortably is simple. Lorenza’s grandparents left them this property. OK, Lorema, but objectively, today, who could afford such a situation? In the end, the Fitts are at the stars. The B&Bs that proliferate everywhere, there are families on the street. Giorgio, bring your dad, come here. In addition to the property crisis, what particularly irritates Costanzo is that half the year, even going outside, is complicated. The streets are overwhelmingly crowded in some places. The reason Costanzo is still putting up with this situation and refuses to move is because he has his own way of escaping the chaos, one that connects him forever to his island. Every week, he takes this astonishing chairlift that is over a century old, a simple wooden chair that helps him to escape the crowds. By taking him to the highest point on the island, Monte Solaro, almost 600 meters above sea level. After a 20-minute walk, there’s a small 16th century church. As an altar boy, Costanzo went on Pilgrimage here. From then on, he never left his church. He became its sacristan. He is responsible for its upkeep, opening it to visitors and helping to organize masses. I am the help of the guards. It’s been 20 years since I’ve been here. See?
We were there before. And this is Capri. The chaos and then the silence. Isn’t all this wonderful? It is a place where contemplation of this beauty and contemplation of the Created unites us with God. So this is a unique place. Far from the hustle and bustle, Costanzo is a contented man. Despite the tourist rush, Capri will always be a magical place.