Frankreichs Atlantikküste – Von Arcachon bis Biarritz | Wunderschön | ARD Reisen

Urlaub an der französischen Silberküste – wo feiner Sandstrand, rauer Atlantik und ruhige Badebuchten aufeinandertreffen. Tamina Kallert startet am Arcachonbecken mit Blick auf die höchste Wanderdüne Europas, reist bis ins südliche Biarritz und entdeckt unterwegs ganz unterschiedliche Küstenwelten. In Cap Ferret passiert sie den rot-weißen Leuchtturm, probiert die fluffige “Dune blanche” und besucht die traditionellen Austernhütten am Wasser. In Arcachon spaziert Tamina Kallert durch das Villenviertel Ville d’Hiver mit seinen eindrucksvollen Bauten der Belle Époque. Danach geht es weiter nach Seignosse und Hossegor, wo Surfer, Designer und Aussteiger den Takt angeben. Weiter südlich führt die Reise ins Baskenland. Tamina Kallert erkundet die heimliche Schokoladenhauptstadt Frankreichs, Bayonne, und besucht einen jungen baskischen Landwirt, der im Hinterland ökologisch wirtschaftet. Ihre Reise endet mit Festivalstimmung in Biarritz.

Und wer spanische Seite des Baskenlandes erkunden möchte, kann das mit Anne Willmes tun! Jetzt in der ARD Mediathek: https://1.ard.de/reisen-baskenland-spanien-?yt=d

00:00:00 Intro
00:01:50 Die Düne von Pilat
00:05:27 Erster Stop in Arcachon
00:07:34 Die Halbinsel Cap Ferret und sein Leuchtturm
00:09:48 Austernzucht
00:11:28 Die Schätze des Meeres welche bei Ebbe sichtbar werden
00:18:29 Süße Spezialität “Dunes Blanches”
00:22:17 Die Strände an der Westseite von Cap Ferret
00:23:43 Fischversteigerung am Fischereihafen von Arcachon
00:27:29 Auf Ski und Schlitten über die Dünen
00:30:09 Der Hafen von La Teste-de-Buch
00:35:15 Der Mauresque-Park von Arcachon
00:40:19 Der Naturpark Landes de Gascogne
00:42:30 Mit Kanu und Kayak durch den Park
00:46:55 Surfer-Hotspot Hossegor
00:57:56 Die Stadt Bayonne, das historische Zentrum des französischen Baskenlandes
01:03:08 Das Dorf Espelette
01:07:31 Mit der Bahn auf den Berg La Rhune von Sare
01:13:14 Pelota, das baskische Ballspiel
01:18:54 Biarritz, Stadt der Kultur und der Genießer
01:25:32 Rocher de la Vierge, der Jungfrauenfelsen
01:27:41 Outro

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“Wunderschön – Von Arcachon bis Biarritz” ist ein Film von Anja Koenzen. Redaktion: Iris Möller-Grätz. Dieser Film wurde 2025 im Auftrag des WDR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.

Yay! Bienvenue, here we go! Come with us on a wonderful journey to the Atlantic coast of southern France. Look forward to the highest shifting dune in Europe, endless sandy beaches, and plenty of swimming fun. Ahead of us lie regions that could hardly be more different. With people who cultivate their own special traditions. Have you ever fished in the mud? It’s a national pastime here. We’ll also visit the French Basque Country and enjoy. Bon appétit. Whether Californian lifestyle or sophisticated chic, there’s much to discover. Come travel with us. Subtitles: WDR mediagroup GmbH on behalf of WDR. Sorry. – Good. No problem. Merci beaucoup. – Merci. C’était très joli. – Great. Ah, landing in the soft dunes. A warm welcome to the French Atlantic coast. We start just 50 km from Bordeaux, in the Bay of Arcachon and the legendary Cap Ferret. Perfect for beach vacationers and connoisseurs. From there it goes via the surfer mecca of Hossegor into the French Basque Country and on to Biarritz. The route starts right at the Dune of Pilat. Wow, that is exhausting. I’m very excited to see what’s over this hill. Oh, now. The sea. Wow. * Music * The Dune of Pilat is over 100 m high and almost 3 km long, a true wonder of nature. Très joli. Beautiful. That really fits here. * Music * Lorraine, I think all the people who come to the dune here have the same feeling, feel special, don’t they? It is a special place, yes. Unique in Europe. When it snows, you can also ski here. – Seriously? Yes. I experienced that once. But that was, I don’t know, 6 years ago. Europe’s highest shifting dune took many thousands of years to form. Due to wind and tidal currents and offshore sandbanks. The Argain sandbank is the reserve for the dune. The sand that’s there comes here with the wind, and it moves. The wind drives the dune inland. And in doing so, it buries everything in its path. * Music * And this pine tree… Or is it a pine tree, right? – Yes, les pins. …can’t survive in the sand. The sand is also salty, which doesn’t help the trees. And what we can’t see, but can guess, is that there are already a lot of pine trees underneath that have been swallowed up in this way. The dune moves about 1 meter per year. It has been a listed monument since the 1990s. From the highest point, you have the best view of Cap Ferret opposite and the Bay of Arcachon. Oyster farming has a long tradition in the bay, beginning in 1849. Around 10,000 tons of oysters mature here every year. The water temperature and salinity are perfect for rearing the animals. The quickest way to reach the many small towns on the bay is by water . With water taxis that can be ordered by phone or online. Or with inexpensive ferries directly from Arcachon. ♪ Balance ton quoi. Même si tu parles mal des filles. Je sais qu’au fond, t’as compris. Balance ton quoi. One day, today, there is a change. Balance ton quoi. Donc laisse-moi te chanter. D’aller te faire en, hmm hmm hmm. Moi, j’passerai pas à la radio. Parce que mes mots sont pas très beaux. Les gens me disent, à demi-mot. “Pour une fille belle, t’es pas si bête.” “For a cute girl, it doesn’t lie.” ♪ This is the symbol of Arcachon. It refers to whaling, and the Basques brought it here back then. Every year, this fluke is redesigned. You can decide which one is the prettiest. We want to take the ferry to Cap Ferret. If you’re traveling by bike, you can bring your bike. The crossing takes 20 minutes. You could also take the car, but that takes longer: 1 hour. The ferries run at both low and high tide. Today, a few people on board are having a really good time. What are you celebrating? Your wedding. – Wedding? Ah, that’s what we call a bachelorette party in German. Say goodbye to… To your old life. – Bye-bye to your previous life, exactly. We went swimming, ate oysters, and rode our bikes. I want to do all of that too. * Music * We’re mooring on the east side of the peninsula, on the side with the sheltered bay. Later, we want to head to the west side, to the open Atlantic. Cap Ferret. Cap Ferret is one of the most popular peninsulas in all of France. It’s also called the Saint-Tropez of the Atlantic. In the past, only fishermen lived here, then the tourists came. And yet the cape has managed to retain its charm. There are no large hotel complexes or luxury hotels to be found anywhere. The peninsula is best explored by bike. You can rent them everywhere here. We want to go to the lighthouse. It was built in the 19th century, destroyed in the Second World War , and then rebuilt exactly as it was. Bonjour. Good day. Is this the way up? Merci. C’est ca pour aller en haut? Yes, here, your ticket. It starts here on your left. Then it goes up 258 steps. And on the way down… Two hundred fifty-eight steps – Exactly. Escaliers, marche? – Right. 258 steps, okay. Now we’re above the treetops. Almost halfway. There you can see it, the whole bay. The huge, amazing dune. Then it goes out to sea. The ebb and flow shape the landscape and the working lives of the oyster farmers. * Music * On Cap Ferret, as in the entire Bay of Arcachon, oyster farming is the main source of income, alongside tourism. In the oyster farmers’ huts you can try the oysters, with your feet in the sea, so to speak, as they say here. We want that too. * Music * Good day. – Good day. Here’s a glass of wine, some small shrimp. – Ah, shrimp too. And the oysters. Size 4, please. And how do you eat them? I prick them open and put them in my mouth. If you’d like a bit of lemon… – Yes. Perfect. – And then I prick them? Then you prick them open, put them in your mouth and chew. Enjoy. – Thank you. – You’re welcome. Mmm. It’s really tender and mild, not as wild as I thought. It’s really something. And it’s even affordable here. * Music * The sea has a lot to offer humans as a habitat. At low tide, when the water recedes, it reveals its treasures. Time and again you see people harvesting salt plants for cooking. But there’s a lot more to find. Lots of different things here. Yes, we have two tools: the digging fork and the net for the shrimp. What we’re about to do is what the French call “pêche à pied,” which can best be translated as “floating fishing” or “tidal fishing. ” Alexandre is introducing tourists to the art of this tradition. Today, it’s me and his intern, Matteo. So, here. – These are the aquatic plants. Yes, aquatic plants, very typical here. Are they edible? – Yes, very, very good. What are they called? They’re called obione in French. You can also call them hare’s ear. Hare’s ear. – It’s the same thing. They’re good in salads. Very salty. Tastes like seawater. A little crispy, just like chips. Are they healthy? They are healthy, but you should eat them in moderation. – Okay. * Music * Ah, it’s a different… – This is… If you don’t want to get hurt by the crab, you have to hold the crab still, like this. Then you put your fingers on either side. Then it can’t pinch. – Yes, it can’t. Look, there are two wonderful places here. One on each side where you can put your fingers. So I have to hold it like this, with my fingers here, then it can’t bite me? Perfect. Can you hold it like this too? That’s interesting because it’s really soft. Shall we take it with us? I’ll take it with us because it’s really tasty and I’m a fisherman. * Music * Is this a freshwater river or seawater? It is seawater, but it flows very fast. And that’s very important because when the water flows fast, there is no mud. That’s why we have sand here. And we can walk really far on it and it’s comfortable to walk on. So now it’s time to go fishing. It’s really slippery. Oh my God. * Music * Let’s see if there’s anything hidden in that rock. Whoops. I’ve got it. Oh, there’s an eel. A small eel that was hiding in that rock. Yes, a small eel. It can grow to be another 1 m longer. A kind of small baby or a very small adult. It’s a protected species in Europe because it’s great to eat, but we eat too many. We’re allowed to catch 10 of them a year. So we put this eel back in the water? Yes, it’s happy. Bring it back. We just wanted to take a look at this beautiful fish. Beautiful. You can go. Crab and a shrimp. It’s the sea unicorn. Look, all shrimp with this kind of arrow on their head are called “pink shrimp” in French. Bring them back in the water. Yes, go back. * Music * Now we’re supposed to look for ring-shaped patterns in the mud. There’s supposed to be a delicacy hidden there. Beneath these circles in the mud you’ll find a very tasty and beautiful mussel. It’s not very well known, but it’s very good. To catch it, you have to dig. And you have to dig right here in the middle of the circle in the mud. And there the mussel is, right in your hand. It’s a bit magical. – Wow. This mussel is called a carpet mussel in France. Beautiful. Can I try it too? You take your hand and you use the longest finger. It has to go to the center of the ring-shaped pattern. Straight down? And then… – You only have sand? Then a little deeper. Oh, he’s got it. Ah, professional. So right here, in the middle… Like this? Just like that, straight down. Dig a little deeper, with the longest finger on your hand. Do you touch the mussel? Ah. Even deeper. Yes. – Great, now. Look, here. If you’ve managed to do it yourself, after several failed attempts, then you’re especially lucky. There are a few rules to follow when fishing on the mudflats, Alexandre explains to me. The mussels have to be a minimum size so that the young can develop and reproduce. There are size charts for this. You take the smallest mussel you’ve collected. If it fits, all the others will fit too. Me? – If you want, otherwise I’ll take it. You go first. And? – It’s very good. Very good. A little crispy and a little sandy, but very good. So, our first try. – First try. For the first time. It’s good. Oh, it crunches. – It’s good. It’s creamy and soft and tastes just like the sea. – Yes. Phew, time for something sweet. Apparently, a specialty was invented here in this bakery on Cap Ferret that the region is proud of. Bonjour. Everything looks delicious. But which one is the specialty? Do you have the… Dunes Blanches? – The specialty. Ah, good. Here we have the Dunes Blanches, the classic. And here we have them in different flavors. I’ll have one. – Just one? – Yes. You have to try these Dunes Blanches. Here you go, for you. Try it. Like this? For me? – Just like that. It’s best to turn it over before you eat it. Turn it over when you taste it. And inside there’s… It’s like a cream puff. Perfect. And now the rest. – The rest, yes. Parfait. Thank you very much. – Goodbye. It’s hard to imagine, but almost the entire Cap Ferret belonged to a single man in the 19th century. Léon Lesca had this chapel built here. The architectural style is influenced by Léon Lesca’s biography. He lived in Algeria for a long time and, when he returned, incorporated North African and Ottoman elements into the architecture. * Music * The chapel was consecrated in 1885 and for many years was the only place of worship on the cape. As a result, many people came from far and wide on foot or by boat to attend mass here. * Music * On the Cap Ferret peninsula, there are mainly holiday homes to rent and a few small hotels. The many campsites offer affordable accommodation. Those who cycle the 1,200 km long Vélodyssée cycle route also like to stay here . There are campsites of all categories, from luxurious to very basic. Here we are on a bike tour. We cycle to the southern Atlantic coast on the Spanish border. We cycle to Hendaye. We left Bordeaux; today is our first day. We’ve arrived here and have several stops ahead of us. * Music * The Atlantic coastline around Cap Ferret is known in France as the “Silver Coast.” In the evenings, the sand is said to shine like silver dust. The open Atlantic here is wild and rough. The yellow and red flags mark the supervised bathing areas where you can swim safely. * Music * * Music * Shortly before 6:00 a.m., the tour begins at the Arcachon fishing port. Okay, listen. We’re lucky enough to be attending a nice auction today. Around 15 tons of fish are being auctioned, which is a good catch. 1,200 tons of fish are sold annually at the Arcachon fish market . The last boats have just come in. We want to watch a fish auction. The fishing port can only be visited as part of such a tour. This is the catch of three fishing boats that returned from their trip during the night. The different types of fish are weighed and labeled. It is also important whether they were caught with a net or a line. The goods are entered into the computer and then displayed on a monitor at the auction. This is the barcode that accompanies the entire process. A turbot can grow up to 1 m long. (Man) Cheese. The bigger the fish, the tastier its aroma, they say here. In the Middle Ages, turbot was called the king of Lent. Whiting, sole. And lots and lots of monkfish this morning. Come on. The fish auction awaits, welcome to the 21st century. The minimum bid for monkfish this morning is just under 6 euros per kilo. One click, and the fish in the box is bought. Everyone hopes to make a good catch. * Music * At this point, the buyers see the goods for the first time. All the information entered at the beginning during registration now appears on the display board. Monkfish is selling today for around 12 euros per kilo, at resale price, of course. Come, follow me. Here, a beautiful meagre weighing 22 kg. Meagre can grow up to 1 m long and weigh 100 kg. Red lobster, pike, cod, sole. They are very beautiful, yes. The fish are chilled with ice for transport, then they set off on their journey. We’ll see them again in restaurants, on plates, or in the supermarket. 9:30 a.m., now let’s have a coffee. Today’s program includes a boat trip and a visit to a particularly beautiful district of Arcachon. First, however, we’ll make a detour to a small dune where a very special local tradition is maintained. It has something to do with pine needles, we were told. * Music * It really does smell quite… …nice. * Music * Skis and a sled are equipment for the adventure that Dominique Maitrot and I are planning now. Okay. You have to do a bit of gymnastics. Autre fois. I think it will be very fast. She is very chilled out. On y va. Est-ce que je peux aider? – Non. * Music * Let’s go. C’est joli. I have to brake, otherwise it will be much too fast. That’s something. Wow. ♪ I have to celebrate you, baby. I have to praise you like I should. ♪ The idea is, you whizz down here, and when you go back up – there’s no lift – you repair the piste a bit at the same time. This fun has a long tradition. People have been dune skiing here since 1938. There have even been proper competitions in three disciplines. Real professionals have taken part, too. Olympic champions. Olympic champions here on the dune? – No, Olympic champions in the snow. But they came here to train. Really? – Yes, real Olympic champions. Who are they? – My father. Really? But it’s a bit crazy, isn’t it? Yes, a little. A little too much. The people here are proud of their traditions and want to preserve them. * Music * In the port of La Teste du Buche, Virgilio and his neighbors have founded an association and are restoring old fishing boats. This is our history, our memory, the tradition. It’s a boat that can be used to navigate in very shallow waters. It can still sail in water as deep as 35 cm. That’s wonderful for the Bay of Arcachon. Not everyone can afford their own boat, so why not share a boat with others? This is the fishing port of La Teste. It’s a port just for oyster farmers. In 2006/2007, 35 boats were on the waiting list for a mooring here in the port. Due to the high demand, our district representatives wanted to build a modern marina. But today’s mass tourism has its limits. A new, modern marina would not have respected our local culture. The marina was not rebuilt; instead, the old harbor was preserved. To ensure that many people could enjoy boat trips here, the Virgilio Association was founded. Anyone can become a member for a small fee and take part in inexpensive boat trips. Take a look. Incidentally, the old fishing boats have been modernized in terms of propulsion. They run on environmentally friendly electricity instead of diesel. There’s no noise; it’s very, very quiet. The boat is called “The Tranquility.” * Music * And you sail routes like this here? Yes, we sail far out into the basin. When we go out, we have to leave early in the morning and come back in the afternoon. They also sail for sunset, and then there’s an aperitif in the fisherman’s hut. We’ll do that right away, too. * Music * * Music * Here? – Yes. Oh, prepared something. – Yes. An extra cutting board for the aperitif. Wow. Great. It’s really very nice and uncomplicated. You come in here, everyone helps out. Bread, delicious things, I think there are even oysters back there. A really nice, French togetherness here. * Music * So with the oyster, what you should eat most is the foot. You cut it out. You take your oyster and cut out the foot. It’s the best part. The foot is the best part? Yes, it contains all the flavor of the oyster. So I’ll take the oyster… Eat your oyster, then cut out the foot with your knife or fork. Extraordinary. – Extraordinary. In the 19th century, Arcachon became a luxury seaside resort. People came here for spa treatments and stayed in villas with illustrious names. The Parc Mauresque, created at that time, is still popular today for recreation and relaxation. It is located in the center of the Belle Époque district, the “Winter City.” When it’s hot and hectic down below, it’s cool and pleasant up here. Absolutely, the district truly deserves its name, Winter City. It’s much quieter, more relaxed; you can even have a picnic on the lawn here, which is quite nice. That was the idea, to have a little bit of the Garden of the World here. There used to be a casino in the park, built in the elaborate Moorish style. Today, a model commemorates it. The idea was simple: spectacular buildings to promote the city of Arcachon. So that the whole world would talk about Arcachon. Each villa tells its own story. In the 19th century, people loved to decorate buildings. Like the Villa Toledo here, a blend of Swiss chalet and Moorish style. It could almost have come from Thomas Mann’s “Magic Mountain.” They all have a name here. – Yes, definitely. Originally a riding hall. And it’s indeed quite remarkable for its staircase, carved from wood. Carved. – Exactly. So it’s reminiscent of embroidery. People played sports there, then went to the casino. And otherwise they just breathed the air? Absolutely, that was the cure. This was the house where they picked up the keys to their rental accommodation. Many celebrities of the time did so. The artist Toulouse-Lautrec also liked to live here and often. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, painter and draftsman, became famous primarily for his posters and paintings of the dancers of the Moulin Rouge. Noble by birth, but also physically handicapped and deformed, Toulouse-Lautrec was considered eccentric. He loved to dress up. And here in Arcachon, too, to undress. The enfant terrible of the art world not only took a cure here, but also worked here. And that’s how these pictures came about. Some of the paths are very enchanted. Yes, that’s part of the concept. You had to entertain the people who were here for weeks, months. And here, this is quite amusing, here you have the choice. For the adventurous, simply over the stones. Or the more comfortable option, on the right. We’re the adventurous ones, aren’t we? It would be rather difficult in high heels. Yes, you have to avoid that here. Until the 20th century, the aim of the cures was also to offer diversion. To leave everyday life behind and get some variety. A little Eiffel Tower. – A little Eiffel Tower. It’s rightly called that because Gustave Eiffel worked on it here. Even before the more famous Eiffel Tower in Paris. They say he was basically… What’s it called? …an intern in an architecture firm, and this was his first student project. Shall we go up? – Yes. * Music * Arcachon at your feet. From up here you have the best view of the “summer town”, the district that lies directly on the sea. We want to spend the evening here. There’s less of a spa in Arcachon these days; the town is now popular as a seaside resort with a lively atmosphere. ♪ Why you fake games. Why you keep playing. Why it’s not beautiful. Why you still play. Why you fake games. Why you keep playing. Why it’s not beautiful in the transistor. Encore le same, encore le same son. The same theme, the same song. Chut, arrête. ♪ Today we’re heading south. Near Biganos we’re exploring a special river landscape by canoe. Then we’ll visit an organic farmer and drive to the surfing hotspot of Hossegor. * Music * This nature park is just a 25-minute drive from Arcachon. The River Leyre flows through it and later flows into the Arcachon Basin, always carrying sand with it for the great Dune of Pilat. It’s incredibly beautiful here. The small harbor was mainly used for agriculture until the 18th century. Today it’s a hub for leisure boaters and, with its pretty huts, a popular destination. Some of the huts are used as boatsheds, others use them for short breaks. * Music * Do you have a stick? Yes, give it here. Hello. Do you live here? – No. This is just for fun. We live 30 km away. Is it for vacation? – My husband built it when we were young. The houses belong to the municipality of Biganos; the land doesn’t belong to us. We can sell it, but we can’t rent it out. – Why? I don’t know if you’ve been to Cap Ferret? – Yes. There are houses there that suddenly cost so much to rent. That’s why they’ve kept the ban on renting to tourists. And you think it’s a good idea? – Absolutely. Thank you very much. – Goodbye. In Biganos, this is how they’ve protected themselves from the negative developments of tourism. The harbor and river are protected and part of a regional nature reserve. Many visitors come here to experience nature by hiking, cycling, or from the river. Sandra Bâcle has been offering canoe and kayak tours for 15 years. Salt water also comes in here at high tide. When the sea pushes into the river. Is this the canoe we’re taking now? – Yes. Okay? – Yes. Let’s go. – Yes, here we go. It looks like a mangrove forest. Yes, that’s right. It’s like Little Amazonia. Little Amazonia. That’s the river’s nickname. – Very beautiful. * Music * Ah. The weather is so nice. – Yes. I’m looking because sometimes there are turtles here. – Here? Yes, on the bank. European pond turtles. Why is it so brown here? Firstly, because we’re in a muddy area, not far from the Bassin d’Arcachon. But mainly because there were thunderstorms in the Landes department yesterday. Therefore, the water picked up a lot of mud on its way. That’s quite natural, but it’s true, the color is very dark today. The Leyre is 100 km long and widely branched with many tributaries. To prevent paddlers from getting lost, there are signs, so that you can find your way back to the harbor even without a guide. Comme ca? Perfect. Was it good? It was really very pleasant, great. On the way south we drive through one of the largest contiguous forest areas in Western Europe. This used to be heathland. Until a good 150 years ago, Napoleon III ordered the planting of these conifers. On an area of 1 million hectares. Both the wood and the resin of the trees were used. Maritime pines in particular grow here because they are so undemanding that they thrive in the poor sandy soil. But there are also people who don’t want to continue with this monoculture and have found other ways of using the land. Near Mimizan, Nicolas Marchal grows organic vegetables in the sandy soil, and with success. It’s actually not that easy because the soil is poor. So we have to nourish it carefully, keep it alive. This is the technique we use to harvest good, healthy vegetables: nourishing the soil so that it nourishes the crops and we can harvest fruit that nourishes us. Our agricultural philosophy is to put plenty of organic matter into the soil so that it gives us good produce in return. Nicolas wants to share his philosophy with other people who can work on the farm in return for room and board. You can get a taste of the dropout lifestyle and stay in special accommodations. Two school buses have been converted into a kind of tiny house, with a shower on the roof. * Music * And now we’re approaching the Basque Country. On the Hossegor beach promenade, everything is painted in the Basque colors of white, red, and green. Even though it’s still 30 km to the Basque Country. This area belongs to the Landes department and has long been considered a region that attracts dropouts. The sea here is particularly reliable and provides beautiful waves for water sports enthusiasts, especially surfers. * Music * Hello. I need an ice cream. We have a caramel here that’s quite intense. Oh, very pretty, thank you very much. A small gift. Have a nice day. Merci. Isn’t that nice? A caramel ice cream with a little gift on top. Ice cream, sunshine. What more could you want? * Music * BMX riding is a sport that’s very popular in France and produces the best riders in the world. Even the youngest are competing here. * Music * Bravo. Rafael Chiquet is a BMX freestyler and became world champion in the “Flatland Contest” in Cologne in 2009. * Music * In flatland, the acrobatics on the bike take place on flat ground without a skate park or ramps. That’s crazy. Rafael, I’m Tamina. Nice to meet you. It’s… …great cinema. It’s here. Very sporty. – Yes, quite. You’ve been doing it since? My children have been doing it since they were 3 or 4 years old. Her mother and I do a lot of competitions, shows, etc. So her mother too? – The whole family. And this is where you train? When I came here, we didn’t have a school. So I started my own school, and now I show the kids BMX tricks. And the kids in the area can come to you? Yes, they ask me via Instagram or Facebook, and then it works. How does it work? How do you start? You raise your hand, grab this, click, one move. Now I want to know. Okay. Yeah! – Yes. Basically, basically. That’s the reason I came here. We love sports, yoga, good food, a cool lifestyle. And you even made a song about this place. Yes, the place inspired me to write a song. I made a video with friends from here, more than 100 people. It’s called “Sacré Hossegor.” I can sing it if you want. – Yes. (hums) – Good… Good start. ♪ By the sea, in a célibataire. Until death, sacred Hossegor. French toast in country land. Dune aperitif, love under the moon. Cosmic candy, psychedelic journey. If you’re in the mood, you’re at Rock Food. If you’re malignant, you’re at Coolin. The whole world here doesn’t talk about that. ♪ Hossegor is the surfing hotspot in France. When surfing was still virtually unknown in Europe, the first competitions were held here in 1960. (Commentator) “Morning is the preferred training time. Training here essentially means balance training. The surfer tries to become as confident on his narrow board as other people are on skis. That simply means surfing, surfing, and more surfing. Again and again, climbing up to the crest of the wave and trying to hold his own against the power of the water for as long as possible. Using his skill to control the waves. The participants begin in a preliminary round in front of a jury. Then follow the quarterfinals and semifinals, and finally the final.” She, too, came here to surf as a child. Luckily, you’re right here. Hello. This is a place. Most of the people here are surfers. Yes, it’s mainly surfers. Is that what drew you here, the sea? Yes, it’s a great place. I always say, an island in France. You’ll find an incredible number of Australians, Scandinavians, English people, all nationalities here, all dropouts. A bit of Landifornia, as they say. – Absolutely. A mix of California and Byron Bay. And you’re right in the middle of it all. Your studio is nearby? Yes, come with me. Can I take a look? – Sure. You can always surf. Julia studied fashion in Germany and has lived in France for over 20 years. She moved to the coast to surf and specializes in the history of swimwear. A really beautiful, exotic garden. – A bit of Hawaii. With palm trees and bananas. – A bit of Africa. A studio under palm trees. You don’t know where to look first. There’s so much to look at. Everything is designed by herself and some of it is even sewn by herself. That’s, look, an immediately different attitude to life. Julia’s clientele is international. That would be more of an extravagant beach style. I think French women, I would say… French women love or have the credo: less is more. French women don’t wear as much makeup. They also have perhaps more understated looks on the beach; they don’t want to attract too much attention. That’s the opposite of American women. This one, for example, is a typical French bikini. Because it’s not too bare, a little covered. It’s in the fifties style. It goes down to here. – Then you have a bandeau. And in between there’s a bit of skin? – Exactly. Is that fifties style coming back now? Yes, it is… I’ve always been a fan of the fifties. Because that’s also the time when bikinis started. Right, that’s the birthplace. That’s why it’s such an important topic in bikini fashion. Whether Marilyn Monroe or many other film stars… …including Brigitte Bardot, they all wore the two-piece, which, by the way, was invented in France. One of the most famous bikinis in film history is certainly Ursula Andress’s, with which she enchanted not only James Bond. What happened next? Well, it’s a bit more covered up. Exactly, and then it got less and less. That was the sexual revolution, too. In the seventies, women wore increasingly skimpy bikinis. Only triangles here, right? You always think you need big pants to hide something. That’s not true at all. Skimpier is sometimes much better for the bottom, to accentuate the bottom. * Music * And Julia gave us another tip. You should definitely try the cult drink of surfers on the beach. Isn’t it a fantastic color? L’eau de menthe, that’s mint syrup, ice, water, that’s it. You have to treat yourself to it right here, in this very place… … it tastes like liquid peppermint candy, fantastic. We drive on, always along the sea towards the south. After a good half hour by car, we reach the region of the French Basque Country. We want to go to the historic city of Bayonne and into the countryside to Espelette, where the famous hot chili grows. Bayonne is the commercial capital of the French Basque Country and famous for its ham, but also for chocolate. Some say it’s the chocolate capital of France. In the 19th century, there were 34 chocolate factories here. Even today, the city celebrates this sweet treat for three days every November. Praliné, chocolat. Chocolate, the theme here. Oh, now. Mm. * Music * It all looks delicious, but one specialty in particular is celebrated here: drinking chocolate. Because it all started with liquid chocolate. Oh, is that for me? That’s for you. – Wow. C’est… Here we have the chocolate pot. And inside is a frother. You can use that to mix the chocolate and froth it up. And what a surprise, they even thought of mustaches. Mustaches have been very fashionable in recent centuries. The chocolate is a bit thick. You can see, despite the foamer, it’s very compact. Is that chocolate and milk? Yes, chocolate and cream. C’est ca? – C’est tout. In a small museum nearby, you can delve even deeper into the history of chocolate. * Music * Oh, very hot. They should have blown on it again. Bayonne is the historical center of the French-speaking Basque Country. The Basques are proud of their cultural identity and language. * Music * Félix? – Yes. – Perfect. Egun on. Welcome to Bayonne and the Basque Country. “Egun on” is Basque? – Yes, it’s bonjour. That’s a very different kind of bonjour. Basque is a very special language. This language is one of the oldest languages in Europe. Here, you can see the Basque flag in some of the windows. The flag is green, red, and white. Félix is Basque and grew up here and is proud of his origins. We have berets that are made here in Bayonne. Originally, the beret was the headgear of shepherds and fishermen. Then it became a political symbol and later a fashion accessory. You put it on. – Comme ca. You can pull it down a bit. Oh God. So, welcome to the Basque Country. * Music * Félix tells me that he studied in Bayonne for a while and that the many students keep the city young and lively. Here in the old town, there’s a lot going on in the summer, even in the evenings. The shops here are very pretty. Yes, that’s right. Basically, everything in the Basque Country is beautiful. Really? That’s very objective, of course. – Yes. We’re leaving Bayonne and driving into the countryside. This is the heart of the Basque Country, says Félix. There are many small villages here, and the people live primarily from agriculture. But tourism is also playing an increasingly large role. For Félix, a village visit is practically a must. One of the most famous is this one. Some of you may recognize it from the spice rack. In the village of Espelette, people worship a spicy fruit: chili. It hangs on the houses to dry. Around 170 producers grow it, and almost everything here is seasoned with it. You can buy chili on its own or as a seasoning for vinegar, oil , or even Bayonne ham. Félix also draws my attention to the upside-down signs you see here. That’s not a mistake, but a protest by the farmers against the agricultural policy in Paris. Ah, bonjour. Huhu. * Music * Yes, look. Very curious. How beautiful and quiet they are. Félix runs an organic farm with sustainable agriculture and is proud of his soil. Especially of the many living creatures that live there. This only works if you move the cows to fresh pasture every few days , he explains. Why is the soil so rich and so good? Because we give the grass time to grow back and always move the cows to a different pasture. Grass has many roots that bind a lot of sugar and carbon dioxide in the soil. For the future. For the future, we must develop agricultural systems that create healthy soils. For his cows and the idea of regenerative agriculture, Félix gave up his medical studies in his mid-20s and has never regretted it. Oh, beautiful. A giant grasshopper, or what is that? Bonjour. Beautiful. It even has wings. Sauterelle. – C’est ca. I have a new friend, I think she’s staying here now. Now she’s flying. I’d like to offer you the Basque cider and the ham from the farm. There’s a picnic going on here among the cows, I love that kind of thing. May I pour you a drink? – Thank you. Is that how it’s done in the Basque Country? Yes, that’s the Basque way. I guess it’s supposed to release the aroma more. Lots of pieces of ham. Osasuna, cheers. – Osasuna. Et en allemand? – Cheers or cheers. Cheers. – Cheers, Osasuna. * Music * We’re staying a little longer in the French Basque Country and driving into the mountainous landscape of the Pyrenees, close to the French-Spanish border. We’re going to the little town of Sare, where you can take a train up a mystical mountain. After that we want to continue via Bidart to Biarritz. At first you drive up through such a lonely landscape, but now you can see that lots of people want to come here. People are parking here, the first hikers are here, it looks full. Let’s see where we can park our car so that this can still turn into something. Okay, it’s pretty crowded here, and you’re glad you somehow got a ticket in advance. And now I know, car 1, door 10, seat 10, something like that. I’ll see if I can find my way around here. It’s best to book tickets online in advance. Bonjour. – Bonjour. The cog railway that runs from Sare up La Rhune mountain opened in 1924. You ride in the original cars from back then. * Music * It’s wonderful, everything is so open. Here they say, “Ne pas se pencher en dehors,” so please don’t lean out. But a little bit, yes. * Music * The ride takes around 35 minutes. which, by the way, is only offered in the summer months. * Music * A good 800 meters of elevation gain must be overcome here. It’s getting really chilly up here now. You drive up, stay for 1.5 hours and then you can drive back down. Or you can walk, which is also possible, of course. That takes 2 hours though. So. Which way do we go? I think to there. * Music * It’s quite an uplifting feeling, being here at the highest point. And a truly 360° view. And beyond are the snow-covered peaks of the Pyrenees. * Music * Here we are. And here is the French-Spanish border. A little snack and enjoyment is also possible. * Music * Pottoks are robust and are said to have been used in the past to smuggle tobacco, coffee and alcohol between France and Spain. Yes, is it really beautiful? These ones live semi-wild in the western Pyrenees. * Music * From Mount La Rhune it is about a 30-minute drive until we get back to the coast. * Music * Today we are going to be sporty. It’s a ball sport that holds a high status in Basque public life. And one that’s also celebrated here at the roundabout, in the form of a basket shovel. Pilota. Every child in the Basque Country learns to play Pilota. To put it simply, two players or two teams of two take turns hitting a ball against a wall, the “frontón.” The winner is the first to reach a certain number of points. There are 10 ways to play it. The easiest is with the bare hands. In the municipality of Bidart, even visitors can learn this ball sport. We want that too. Good day. – Good day. This is the world of Pilota. This is the world of the Basque Pilota. You are welcome to look around. * Music * And this is the Pilota? The ball is called a Pilota. And this is the Chistera. – Chistera. Making a Chistera like this takes about 30 hours , and for a professional, its lifespan is about 3 months. Patxi Tambourindéguy taught himself. He was a professional player for a long time in the USA, where Basque pilota is extremely popular. The sport is now also played in the Philippines, Latin America, and even Italy. The chistera is made entirely from natural materials. The wickerwork is made of willow, with a chestnut frame inside. We’ll start now, if you want. Let’s see if your hand fits. Okay? Done. Let’s go and try out the Basque pilota. Oh my God. As you can see here, in Bidart there is the frontón,… …the town hall, the church. It’s very typical of the villages in the Basque Country. * Music * I would have liked to play with the little boy too, but we’re going to the professional court. Patxi has something planned. Bang, put your hand in. There’s a specific place for each finger. A place for each finger. You’re ready. Here we go. It fits, it wobbles, and there’s room, my dad would say now. You’re wrapped up very tightly, it’s pretty hard. But of course you’re still flexible here. It’s a very special feeling, this extended thing. 1, 2, 3. You catch it. Oh, oh, oh. Even catching it is difficult, you have to catch the ball up here so that it rolls in there. We’re going to practice catching now. I’ll help you. * Music * It’s mine. Ah, now me. He’s jumped out again. * Music * Now things are getting serious. Patxi is going to play properly from now on, no more easy going for me. Over there. Yeah, nice. Oh no. Oh my God. – You lost. Great. I’m out. Patxi shows how it’s done like a pro. The ball is accelerated up to 200 km. I’d need a few more training sessions before I could do that. Thank you for showing me. That is a very special experience. – You’re welcome. * Music * Little Biarritz has a lot to offer and attracts people from all over the world. * Music * We were recommended the Biarritz market hall. It’s open every day in summer and is a paradise for anyone who likes good food. * Music * It’s only a short walk from the market hall to this magnificent building. The fact that a small fishing village here on the coast has become a city with a big name is said to have something to do with this building, the Grand Palais, and the French Emperor Napoleon III. Hello Tamina. – Katja, hello, I’m glad. I think it’s all even bigger than I imagined. Amazing, isn’t it? Grand Palais. – Like a little castle. It was designed by Napoleon III. for his wife Eugénie de Montijo, a Spaniard, and put Biarritz on the map. Aristocrats from all over Europe wanted to be as chic as the Emperor of France and came to Biarritz to spend their summers. Everyone was there , from the Romanovs to the English royal family. Emperor Napoleon III and his wife Eugénie, Tsar Alexander II with his wife Marie of Hesse and Rhine and Queen Victoria. That’s how it all came together. Then a few large buildings were added. Exactly, here is the Orthodox church for the Russian Tsarist family, the Romanovs, which is currently being renovated. Ah, freshened up again. In the 1950s, Hollywood discovered the charm of Biarritz and left its mark, Katja explains. Cary Grant is said to have designed this outline, this floor plan of the pool, which is organic. Frank Sinatra came to the inauguration; they really organized something here. Hollywood stars Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra were best buddies and contributed to Biarritz’s glamour. And someone else: screenwriter Peter Viertel, husband of actress Deborah Kerr. He came here in 1955 for a filming opportunity and brought surfing from the Californian coast. From here, surfing began its triumphant march throughout Europe. Even today, Biarritz remains a meeting place for international audiences. There are cultural events year-round. Festivals like the motorcycle and surfing event “Wheels and Waves” take place every year. * Music * What power, huh? – Here we finally have cliffs. They start particularly well here on the coast and continue all the way to the Spanish Basque Country. But here we finally have cliffs, really big rocks. And the beach is especially suitable for beginner surfers. In Biarritz, you can choose between five different sandy beaches. How enchanting here. – Yes, so beautiful. The hydrangeas, huge bushes, grow here. We want to go to the Old Port. * Music * Boat trips for tourists are also offered from here . You delve into the city’s past. It originated as a whaling town, which you can see here in the coat of arms. Here stands someone with a harpoon, who had to spear the whale from the boat. Then everything from the whale was used. This brought a certain wealth to the coastal towns. On many coats of arms in the towns of Biarritz, Guéthary, for example, The whale is on it. The Basques were the first commercial whalers in Europe in the 7th century . The small huts were built under Napoleon III and are called crampottes. A crampotte is a small room in the Gascon language. The sailors rested there and stored their equipment. There are still 65 crampottes here today. To rent them you have to be a resident of the city and have patience. The waiting list is long. Again and again you see the Lauburu, the four-headed symbol, this sun wheel above the door. Symbolizes the sun and thus scares away evil spirits. These symbols are often found on the doors and everywhere so that the evil spirits don’t get in at all or are scared out. It’s okay to take a look, isn’t it? * Music * This symbol of the city also has something to do with the whalers here. The fishermen were out at sea and caught whales and came back. A storm surprised them just off the coast. They couldn’t find the entrance to the harbor and were already desperate and preparing for death. Suddenly a white light appeared up ahead on the rock. Then, luckily, they made it into the harbor with their boats and were safe. A little later, Emperor Napoleon III had this bridge built by Gustave Eiffel. * Music * We are now at Plage Port-Vieux, the beach at the Old Harbor. * Music * A cool rosé by the Atlantic, that’s really great. Enchantée. – Enchantée. Chin-chin. * Music * Now, as we say goodbye, we want to go back to the main beach. A meeting place for many, to end the evening. Or to jump into the sea again. * Music * And again and again, l’océan, the Atlantic. What a coast. And what a journey from this wonderful, largest shifting dune in Europe, across the wide beaches to here in this diverse Basque Country. All I can say is, à la prochaine, see you next time. Or as the Basques say, agur, bye. Copyright WDR 2025