Nouvelle-Calédonie, un camaïeu de bleu – Échappées belles

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Nouvelle-Calédonie, un camaïeu de bleu – Échappées belles 4 janvier 2020

À plus de 17 000 km de Paris, au coeur de l’océan Pacifique, se trouve l’une des destinations les plus paradisiaques : la Nouvelle-Calédonie. Montagne verdoyante et lagon aux eaux turquoise composent le paysage sublime de ce territoire. Pourtant, l’archipel a encore quelques trésors cachés. La nature offre ici des couleurs aussi variées que les racines de ses habitants. Qu’ils soient métropolitains, kanaks, caldoches, mélanésiens, tous s’entendent à dire qu’ils habitent une île de rêve. Tiga débute sa découverte dans la ville de Nouméa.

Au sommaire :
– La passion des sports d’eau
– Les femmes kanak
– La faune du caillou
– Le vagabond du mont Humboldt
– Cowboy tropical
– Maîtres piroguiers

Les bonnes adresses de Nouvelle-Calédonie

📌 Acheter des produits frais locaux au marché de Moselle :
50 rue Georges Clémenceau
98800 Nouméa
Ouvert du mardi au dimanche de 5h à 12h

📌 Déguster du poisson frais du lagon et pratiquer le snorkeling :
Le Ponton – Récif Tamanou
Embarquement à la mise à l’eau de “Côte Blanche” face à l’îlot de Ste-Marie (A 7mn de bateau de Nouméa)
Infos et réservations : 00687 90 38 84
https://leponton.nc/

📌 En savoir plus sur l’histoire et le patrimoine des kanaks :
ADCK – Centre culturel Tjibaou
Rue des Accords-de-Matignon
98800 Nouméa
Tél : 00687 41 45 45
http://www.adck.nc/

📌 Dormir dans un gîte – table d’hôtes sur l’une des plus belles plages de l’île :
« Le Chératof »
Route de Poé, Plage de Poé
Contact : Christophe READO
00687 99 11 33

📌 Survoler le deuxième plus grand lagon au monde :
Air Paradise Poé
Aérodrome de Poé, Plage de Poé
Contact : Olivier PAUL – 00687 50 06 66
http://www.ulm-hydravion-poe.com/fr/

📌 Découvrir l’art de la sculpture kanak à Ouvéa Avec Marjorie TIAOU : Tribu Lékiny – Ouvéa
Renseignements : 00687 45 41 14

📌Aller à la rencontre des requins-citrons avec Antoine OMEÏ :
Weneki – Saint-Joseph – Ouvéa (extrême nord de l’île)
Réservations : 00687 98 72 05 / 00687 97 76 99

📌 Visiter une grotte et l’histoire des kanaks de Lifou :
Justine HNAWIA – Tribu de Qanono – Lifou
Renseignements : – 00687 72 96 82

📌 Pour avoir une chance de rencontrer les cagous, direction le parc provincial de la rivière bleue :
Province Sud

Accueil

📌 Pour s’initier ou se perfectionner à la plongée en apnée :
Apnée en Calédonie
http://www.bluecaledoniafreediving.com

📌 Pour aller en Nouvelle-Calédonie
Aircalin
https://fr.aircalin.com/fr

📌 Visiter les Îles Loyauté :
Destination Îles Loyauté
https://www.iles-loyaute.com/fr/

📌 Office de tourisme :
Nouvelle-Calédonie
https://www.nouvellecaledonie.travel/fr/

Rejoignez-nous sur :
📌 Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/EchappeesBellesF5
📌 Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/echappees_belles/
📌 Pinterest : https://www.pinterest.fr/Echappees_Belles/
📌 france.tv : https://www.france.tv/france-5/echappees-belles/

Sophie Jovillard, Tiga, Ismaël Khelifa et Jérôme Pitorin se relayent le samedi à 20h50 sur france5 pour vous faire découvrir des échappées aussi belles que lointaines.

Hello everyone, welcome, you have just joined me for a unique trip, we are more than 17,000 km from Paris, it took almost 24 hours by plane to arrive here between Australia and New Zealand, in New Caledonia, this trip I have dreamed of all my life, immersed in postcard landscapes, exploring mountains and tropical forests, visiting paradise islands surrounded by a gigantic lagoon which is listed as a world heritage site, I am taking you on board with me for an unforgettable break, you are all welcome to your beautiful escapes in New Caledonia it’s true in New Caledonia that’s it we are already drowned in the blue there the blue is infinite so there Antoine we are going with you to meet the sharks that you protect that’s it we are arriving the fish but as a little guy you are going to have the pleasure of really seeing a configuration of New Caled let yourself be surprised by the cagou he doesn’t steal it he has wings but he walks discover different cultures often people ask me if it scares me that my son rides in rodeos I like it as much as he rides in rodeos rather than going to the gym cana with cars or going to get adrenaline elsewhere and all that happened naturally here with the infiltration of water and the treasures to protect when we remain in front of nature our humility and our smallness as humans takes on its full meaning I remain me every day like a child thank you very much it’s me who thanks you for your trust on the beach side the magic of my sculptures it’s the island which gives it to me the time it stops at the mountain side before the word fatigue we didn’t really know each other but now we’re starting to get to know each other thanks to the journey can begin hello guys hello Philippe hello guys welcome to New Caledonia thank you very much the trip went well well listen I admit it’s a bit long but what a great reward to be there I’m already completely disoriented so that we are in town in Numéa the capital of New Caledonia completely you said the capital because the particularity of New Caledonia is it is an overseas country so it has its it’s an apple completely and therefore Numea is the largest French-speaking city in Oceania there are almost 200,000 inhabitants it brings together 70% of the population of the Grande Terre and it measures how much this Grande Terre 450 km long okay and so you it’s here in Numéa that you decided to come and settle down exactly I took over a totally atypical restaurant and I would really like to take you there for lunch at noon ah interested well of course I’m following you let’s enter Numéa ah here Tiga welcome to the fish market of Numé de Numé but what is this monster then it’s from the grouper family what we call a small little grouper in the Mediterranean in the Atlantic it’s merloche you can have fish that are triple that hello I’m here philippe it’s going well today well thank you and you there are fish a little bit as usual you have round grouper I saw today who had a beautiful one there yes there there wait I’ll show it to you it’s impressive it’s impressive and I can’t carry it it’s too heavy if you can make me put it on I I’m going to have a saonnaie as well and a salmon salmon which is an essential fish really in the lagoon it’s really very fine it’s the fish in fact which helps me to make people who don’t like fish like fish which means that we’re going to eat well yes we’re at the Place des Cocotiers hm hm it’s very central in the town of Numea and uh it’s a very cultural place where there are concerts there is the Christmas market there are a lot of things that are organized here it’s a rallying point a little bit for young people and then for the less young as well and when you say that it’s a cultural city there are museums there are things like that so you have here the Dibaou cultural center a museum which highlights the Canac cultural heritage and so it’s really something something unavoidable that we arrive at us I think that we can not be bored here exactly here is Tiga the boat which will take us to the point with our captain Ryan hello Ryan delighted delighted that’s it I am baptized by the Pacific Ocean there we arrive at the reef or and the pontoon is positioned in the lee of the reef or it’s a floating restaurant in fact there is a beautiful coral cover so you will see we will visit all that through the underwater tunnel because in addition you have a tunnel Yeah it’s the only tunnel in Caléo and there you go welcome on board frankly it’s very original to have a floating restaurant off the coast of Numea in the Caledonian lagoon in the heart of the Pacific Ocean exactly we are in the lagoon I love it and there you go Seb I’m giving you the fresh fish that we bought with Tiga at the market hello it’s okay I found it yes I’m the delighted chef we hope you’re happy splendid nickel it’s very good all that the beautiful lobsters plus we enter the belly of the pontoon that’s it in the tunnel okay so you see there we have the surgeons who are the young bars there they have small scalpels that come out at the level of the tail and next to you also have rabbit fish we call them here the pimples because when you touch them it sends you venom and it’s quite painful so you know them all all the fish that are around the pontoon there but how do you know all these fish it’s my work also in parallel with the pontoon in fact I work in environmental monitoring in areas which are listed as UNESCO world heritage sites specializing in fish so I do fish counting so I am a fish counter fish counter it’s good you tell great stories with these 24,000 km² the Caledonian lagoon the largest in the world is a dream playground for all water sports enthusiasts whether on or under the surface of the water everyone can practice the discipline that suits them whatever whatever his age, sport is part of everyday life as for Benjamin who combines the professions of physiotherapist you tell me when you cry and professional windsurfer not so bad eh that one yeah my patients know it it still happens to me often to organize my weeks in relation to the weather forecast what my truck is parked there I have all my equipment which is in it so I leave the office I look it is 1:2 a.m. and at 1:07 a.m. I am sure the beach in shorts preparing the equipment for his outing today Benjamin has set his sights on Laara Island, a tropical paradise where he is sure to be calm to test the new fashionable floating machine the Wing Foil is a bit of the latest trend it’s a sort of hybrid between windsurfing and kiting so there I mounted a foil a foil in fact quite simply it’s a small carbon plane which actually allows you to fly the windsurf board it also makes a camping table well here’s the action we arrive at the office okay it should do it oh there the sand it’s hot despite appearances Benjamin is indeed at work after his years of competition he started a career testing equipment for various manufacturers the lagoon is therefore a bit like his design office on which the foil prototypes sent to him are sifted thanks to the conditions we have thanks to the Lisée site which blows almost all year round it’s true that it’s a perfect spot to develop all the activities on the ground of play it is 365 days a year and so it is true that being in shorts all year round and having wind or waves all year round is still quite a luxury if the lagoon is an exceptional playground on the water it is just as much under the surface New Caledonia is in fact a mecca for the practice of freediving throughout the year several hundred practitioners devote themselves to this discipline which is certainly demanding but accessible to everyone the world as long as we are well supervised generally what we do is we make one or two head-up descents which allows us to check the ears and then we’ll go head down and we’ll see a little bit at the technical level where you can improve maria yes fully motivated ah yes great I like it sometimes I wonder why I’m doing this but it’s rediscovering this feeling of magic doing a little bit like the fish and so the program will be good going to 15 m and maximum 20 m I’m a beginner eh 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 top thanks on the advice of Pierre Crubiller freediving instructor and 2016 world vice-champion everyone can explore their limits and little by little surpass them when we find ourselves at the bottom and we have to go back up this is perhaps the most painful part but the whole part before is the sensation of free fall the sensation of well-being it is really the discovery of exploration scuba diving we are we are stuck we look we explore we discover there it is really a search inside of yourself you want the short or the small one the session of the day ends with a surging dive a weight which allows freedivers to descend to greater depths without having to make any effort although it may seem elitist freediving can be practiced at any age in New Caledonia there are already nearly 500 practitioners so there we are Tiga yeah so I’m really happy to go into the water what do I need to know about what should I be wary here we can see lots of things everything is nice everything will come to see you sometimes there is curiosity we will see lots of fish we are really in a nursery area where there are lots of coral folières you will see it’s very nice folière folière here there is they have madness it’s the paradise of fish you have one you will see yes we are coming the fish no it’s uh a clinoid it’s from the starfish family you can take it in your hands if you put your hand flat oh my god oh yes that’s great you see there she’s all blooming there she’s cuddling me wow tiga you’re super aquatic eh super Tigar it’s magnificent so I saw that there when we went into the water you have a great reflex you don’t touch the hard corals they’re the builder corals a little bit of the reef you shouldn’t touch them on the one hand because you risk hurting yourself and in addition to them damage it’s very fragile okay on the other hand the coromou they are beautiful they dance like that exactly you can touch them it’s relatively soft they’re not stinging and it’s not a builder coral it’s really beautiful and and the long fish a little light like that that we saw so that ‘s a salmon loach and you’re going to eat it at noon ah that’s it there we’re going to catch it come on you like it ah yes we can congratulate Seb eh yeah it’s that you’re going to the loyalty islands you’re going to have the pleasure of really seeing another configuration of New Caledonia that’s it it’s this diversity which is which is magnificent and there is all this slightly mythical side in Caledonia and cultural which is which is very strong and which revolves around custom can we say that there is a little bit of magic there is completely magic each island loyalty each place each tribe each person that you meetings here if you are open-minded and you want to hear what we are told you can really take great trips people really have great things to say and to relate to your health go on your trip thank you very much hello good you spent the day there playing there is no school today no there is no school there is not so you enjoy the weekend I like your t-shirt what is on it and the flag there is the Canac flag it is beautiful your t-shirt I hope I’ll find the same one that’s the catch of the day yeah that’s an aiguillette we caught it right there ah no but it’s still moving it’s beautiful this fish and that all that can be eaten yes well well I hope the fishing will be good in any case hello boys thank you have a good day hello hello it’s you Marjorie I’m so happy to have arrived at that I’ll do it for you kiss joella hello Joela little guy here we are at Joel here is the guardian of the coconut plantation yes there I see that it is beautiful this cocoterré yes and what do you do with the coconuts which are there a little bit of everything we use the coconut for food to cook you also have the green coconuts to drink the leaves to cover the huts make the coconut tree we use everything from the foot to the Here they say that the coconut tree is king it’s the first thing they tell us when we are here it’s a sacred tree because precisely it feeds us it covers us it does everything for us you see that’s why we don’t cut it here you don’t see coconut trees which are cut down voluntarily either it’s the wind that made it fall or it got old and it fell on its own you see like this one okay all this wood is recovered there is no voluntary felling you are a wood sculptor that ‘s your job here you have the obier that’s what we call the obier and that’s what we call the obier in all the trees it’s the first skin that envelops the heart okay and the funny zone it’s the heart there and you sculpt between the heart and the obiet that’s it that’s it that’s our duty as canc is to give this quality of life to maintain this nature and to always do things healthily ah it’s the time when the sun tells us good evening that’s it there that’s it it’s the magical moment of the day that’s why I like living here time it stops does it inspire you ah well yes a little bit of that calm well I think that already the magic of my sculptures is the island that gives it to me it’s it it’s the sea it’s the sand it’s the wind there’s my office welcome to my office there you go you’re going to sleep here h we call that the pillar of custom because in the Canac world it is inside that everything is discussed everything is decided you are born in a box you get married you are in a box and when you leave you are also in a box so there you go and with us here we have two rules and there is respect and humility that’s why the doors are low ah because when you bend down to enter it teaches you to remain humble and you must never forget it so you will be able to do well rest enjoy yeah and take some energy for tomorrow what that and so as not to miss my passage to open that’s it let’s see come on get down tig go ahead you can do it even if it is better known for its lagoon New Caledonia is first of all a mountainous island the central chain which crosses it from north to south for 400 km has remained a wild territory virgin of any human presence despite the modest altitude some peaks are very difficult to access this is the case of Montolt, the second highest point in Lille at 1618 m, which remained almost untouched until a strange hiker climbed into his favorite mountain. Alain Woudan is the vagabond of Humbolt, who has been hanging around there for 40 years. At the age of 82, he has climbed it 104 times. This is the cut that my colleagues who accompanied me at least bolt for the 100th. climb offered me and then that’s the bottle of champagne that we uncorked up there for the occasion yet the mountain refused to him for a long time alain and his friends had to try it again four times before reaching the summit the first attempt to climb to the summit of Montbolt was on June 9 and 10, 1979 then 2nd attempt 9 hours of walking but we lack time to go to the summit don’t know where to start the trail and in what The state it was in was there was a lot of vegetation it wasn’t maintained, we got lost several times in fact, as long as we hadn’t reached the top we said to ourselves “Okay, we’re going to make the number of attempts we need, we absolutely have to get up there.” That was the goal, eh, that was the goal in 40 years Alain will have guided hundreds of hikers on this trail that he himself traced and maintained year after year a work of Titan of which he is particularly proud so 400 is not the altitude it is the number of steps that I have cut since the start so here we are at the trail or which I baptized with my name since I believe I have worked enough and spent hundreds of hours on this path to improve it to put it in good condition for hikers well we continue the ascent of the montolt requires days for an experienced hiker the first stage must lead the group to the refuge after 6 hours of a sustained walk or heaviness but for Alain the ascent now stops well before at the first of the two refuges built on the route well well that’s the first step for us we’re going to stay here so you’re going to continue you’re going to take the ridge line we’ll see you tomorrow I hope you’ll have good weather to go to the summit I’m good to accompany them again but hey I’m afraid it’s beyond my strength yes yes yes too bad the soup of the rounder the soup of the evening in the refuge notebook Alain consults the testimonies of the rare hikers who have come here since his last visit not a cloud slight breeze yes okay difficult waking up ah well it’s back it will be melted savoarde well there it is good that these testimonies are the image of the low attendance of the Caledonian mountain outside the GR of the south which is well marked which has shelters for hikers well elsewhere there is not much except here well so when we summarize the possibilities of hiking across the island there are not many there are not many yet there is there is significant potential it’s a shame the next day Alain watches for the return of the Humbolt climbers all will return safe and sound but with varying fortunes that’s it they arrive there final straight ah well they will remember their their climb or a bowl he survived the a bowl ah you almost found one one day our I didn’t expect it to be so difficult for my abilities before the word fatigue didn’t really know but now I’m starting to know thanks to the bolt well done I think I for Alain and his companions it’s time to reach the valley the Vulcin cabin goodbye see you soon goodbye it’s not a goodbye that the mountain is certain as long as his legs will carry him the wanderer of Humbolt will come back to watch over his mountain little guy up it’s time hello I’m coming straight away well slept well and you yes great it’s your children yes well there you have my big Sanjana and then my little Jean so there you see I invite you to my table here’s an ouv1 breakfast so here it’s papaille from UVa it’s super good for the morning green coconut the essential yeah it’s so good this coconut it’s super sweet it’s sweet eh you grew up here I grew up all over the world except here I came back when I was 18 and to facilitate the integration here well I came by the sculpture by Acanac there you go and by doing this work well it’s a way of making people understand the history of OVA but also the importance of the heart of our island the importance of the desire to protect these places why it’s always so nature painting there are no buildings there are no big hotels that’s a choice that for me my grandmother she always told me something she always said to me “My daughter never forgets that ovavea well it’s white gold white gold it’s up to you to find it but it’s before your eyes look carefully and that’s what will serve you all your life already like that I find it magnificent eh already the turtle here there you see you have it there then my mission is to do his beard and he when it is finished what is his mission well in fact the guardian is the one who protects the house he is the one we put in front of the hut on each side and you only make guardians I sculpts that the objects which serve to protect the being the residences the taboo places uh what is it that it’s a taboo place a taboo place it’s an important place in our eyes when you go into the invisible world you want that in the world of the living it is kept the invisible world it’s when we pass to the other side there we are in the world of the living yes with us there are the two worlds we our ancestor it’s not that he disappears he is with us except that they are there all the time with us that’s what do you think of my beard well I think it’s great well there you see there he’s almost finished wow that’s how he’ll keep you I’m going to call him Jean after your son ah that touches me yes because he’s really adorable your son he’s super sweet super nice h you make me cry So there what’s left it’s finished well there’s more than the thought so I’ll have it for a little while so what I’m offering you is in the meantime you can go for a walk and then I finish it and it works so I leave you Jean thank you Marjorie thank you to you it was a magical moment thank you very much see you later welcome to all of you the program from here today we go to the opposite the nursery and to the shark pass from here to there there are 3 km there are about 40 45 minutes of walking so there Antoine we are going with you to meet the sharks that you preserve that you protect this this place it’s a very special place the place really where we must respect this animal we arrive in peace and with a lot of respect here you have a particular love for sharks yes I have a particular love because it is above the end of the chain so of the animal chain we are there to protect it we are there so as not to harm it you have a little lemon shark there which passes here there but where that there it goes up the current in front of there it’s a little shark no I’m not very calm because I know that the shark really represents something for you Antoine you grew up with it but you see I was traumatized for example certain films certain reports a bit of the news how do you manage to not be afraid you well you have to believe that’s all if you ever hurt a shark you don’t respect it yes it’s normal that one day it won’t respect you so here we call it it’s the entrance to the nursery it ‘s called reserve places babies also grow inside the nursery, that is to say, this is the place where they are protected for 1 year and then they know when to come out of the barrier, that’s why since this morning we’ve been seeing little sharks here and there because there it is, it’s approaching to learn how to get out, you’ve seen the water rise here, you’ve seen the dunes disappear, what does it do to you personally , well, we’re very touched by this little gem that I see here who is going to disappear we don’t know if it will disappear completely or little by little we won’t be here anymore it touches our hearts that one day it will disappear it’s really magical this love suddenly that you have for your environment for the animals for the nature that you respect it’s something that you learned or it’s innate like that among the Canaques we learned but it’s innate also it’s in the blood that is to say that we were born with that the wind is elements that speak every day he talks to us but sometimes we have to stop and try to listen carefully what is the message that sends us it’s the eyes that look and it’s the ear that listens it’s great in the souvenir shops of Numea it’s everywhere on the t-shirts the mugs the pareu and even on the bank notes the Cagou is the emblem of New Caledonia this endemic bird of Lille even gave its name to the Caledonian athletes you are there are you there for good measure against the war dances practiced in other Oceanic countries the XVEM imagined the Chapkagu a sort of local ha that all Caledonian athletes must now perform during international competitions ah u ah thank you it’s a very intense war dance and you see as I am I’m really out of breath the Kagou he doesn’t fly he has wings but he walks we have to make him fly towards the international world so today this Kagou walker becomes a medal runner the Kagou lives in the remote areas of Grande Terre and to have a chance to observe him in his natural environment the safest way is still to accompany the one who knows him best Jean-Marc Merioot is ornitologist and regularly at dusk he joins an isolated refuge in the forest in order to be hard at work early the next day to census the cagou in the region here we are at the refuge of the ornitologists the refuge Yve Tocar who is my predecessor and therefore who worked his entire career studying the cagou from 1984 to approximately 2006 when he retired the census is a method that he developed from the start eh so she is based on listening to the cagou in the morning so it was he who taught me this method and it is this method that we have been implementing every 5 years since 1984 the night will be short the alarm is set for 3:30 in the morning because Jean-Marc must have reached his post before dawn quickly have a little coffee to go out into the field and then we will go and wait for the cagou field at daybreak the Cagou is more than discreet and the only way to to locate in the immensity of the forest is to be present at the only moment when it manifests itself there I go to my listening point slightly in height to be able to position the different families of Kagou 5h mo hope that it sings within a quarter of an hour normally it should it should start a few minutes later the first cagou are heard first by small distant cries that only this experienced ornitologist manages to precisely locate a first cagou which sang there badly jean-marc is the man with the golden ears, hundreds of hours of listening have developed in him a unique ability to identify not only the number and location of the cagou but also their sex there I have a family which is made up of three individuals so I have two males and a female so it requires a little concentration from me to distinguish clearly to be sure the field of evil is made up of 12 syllables and the field of the female is only made up of 5 to 7 syllables there you go I have about twenty cagou who sang and there at the time it is now they are all going to go in search of food which they do all day long in fact in certain sectors of the natural park of the Blue River the families of Kagou are so used to the presence of Jean-Marcellent approaching without difficulty this not very shy behavior nevertheless almost caused their loss it is a bird which lives on the ground originally it has no predator eh all the predators it has today are introduced animals eh whether it is dogs cats uh a single dog uh here in the forest during the day it can decimate uh 10 15gou if only for play what a bit like a dog which would enter a henhouse what in fact at the beginning of the 80s the species is on the verge of extinction there are only 60 individuals left an ambitious plan is then implemented to save the soldier KAGO destruction of its predators and protection of its biotope today the Kagou seems to be doing well since the last census reported 800 individuals, i.e. a population multiplied by 15 in 30 years hello Sophie hi guy you are well I can give you a kiss like that I surprised you by coming to pick you up with my magnificent horse it is beautiful what is its name avlings avlings I will take you to the git Cheratop yes to Poé where you are going to spend the night we are going there yes come on ah I imagined myself running next to you I said to myself why not would have made me do sport all the same well so today there is a little bit of wind yes but on the other hand tomorrow it’s going to be great for your flight yes it’s with Olivier it’s your husband it’s with Olivier my companion yes it’s great what really I’ve said to myself this lagoon since I’ve been here it makes me dream as much to see it from the sky what is it that’s it so it’s really extraordinary yeah so here’s the git I was really not far you’re really not far you see so there they have reserved the verdine for you for this night I think you’re doing well you’re going to have a good time night you will have the view of the lagoon you will see it’s very beautiful there it’s cute eh yeah yes not in the house not in the house no I think yes new Mario it smells good eh I can’t wait to taste I think I’ve never tasted yeah the New Caledonian cer there are a lot of serfs here in New Caledonia I think they considered that there were two serfes per inhabitant practically ok. we are therefore in a population of 500,000 DEER roughly and which causes which causes a lot of damage yes in the area there everyone hunts practically yes on the west coast so Tiga are you ready for your flight tomorrow ah yes I am more than ready I came to Poé just for that really or is it true listen here it is the swimming pool of Caledonia you will see we will fly over an extraordinary site of turquoise blue it is a moment unique that we are going to share together yes really really thank you Olivier it’s a pleasure I can’t wait I can’t wait Captain Olivier and his co-pilot Tiga are happy to welcome you aboard their Air Paradise seaplane the outside temperature is 25°G Celus the conditions are ideal Captain Olivier you would like to add something ok we’re going to get closer to the paradise here we go we’re already drowning in the blue there yeah the coral reef we can see it there it’s delimited by the waves that’s it exactly yeah it’s a place in Caledonia where it’s closest to the beach so there you have the big blue Pacific you have a first step at 25 m and then after it goes down to 200 m we call it the tomb it’s very impressive to see how the colors can change yeah this sky blue and all of a sudden it becomes dark blue do you see the dots there yes you focus on them yes there are ra uh sharks dolphins everything you can actually see in the beautiful postcards well we they are here look there you have a look you see the ar there gray there look with the tail there you see it there just below there gray blue her magnificent you see this îo there look at the shape it has yes it has the shape of a heart yeah it’s a heart a little bit stretched but it’s our heart and there you can swim to the Coral Reef without fear eh not alone okay ok yeah there are still some big bad guys there are 4m tigers so if you’re with several people yeah it’s okay no problem ah there are tiger sharks there which enter which enter the lagoon yeah yeah look at the turtle there wow yes I see it so listen we arrive in a place which is rare where there is a very large concentration of gong call it sea cows it’s a species which sends disappearance it’s what site there what we are flying over in fact it is a site where they feel good and therefore they reproduce when we remain in front of nature our humility and our smallness as humans takes on its full meaning I remain myself every day like a child and you see me I flew and I saw inside the lagoon dolphins giving birth yeah and then you take a hit in the face because you really see nature the dolphins are there at 15 m you see a tiger shark who is there to eat or what in case you really see and it’s not cheating what you see you can’t you can’t cheat thank you Olivier you’re leaving there I’m for nothing the white triangular sails undulating gently on the turquoise waters of the lagoon on the island of Épins the Balancier canoes have been part of the decor for ages, however on the mainland the culture of the canoe had been lost over time today some enthusiasts are still trying to rediscover the lost art of the pirogier masters agora on the coast Christian Vama still remembers this day in 1993 when on the occasion of a race between the island of Despins and Grande Terre dozens of canoes docked on its beach what marked me was the all the pongants at the uni had at least thirty pons it was then that stayed in my head must that one day I have to know how to do the pilogue when Christian decides to embark on the construction of a large canoe all those who in the tribe still knew this ancestral art had already left this land carrying with them their knowledge Christian had to relearn everything by himself we would know it a little more but we took more time than normally there we did almost 3 years for a first yeah it’s not that but it’s it’s good the main thing is that it floats from the island of bread Ailé ​​Tikouré grew up in this tradition of pirogers he comes today to admire the work of Christian who after years of effort managed to build his canoe in Balancier the first that Grande Terre has seen for decades a little repair it’s small small leaks blocked before before the end of the sea it made me happy to see that well the brothers here they were they were eager to rebuild to reappropriate the knowledge because there has a part of us which is inside it has a part of our history of our names which are linked to these things which are part of the fundamentals like the hut the canoe the field is part of the founding elements we are going to say about the culture the tradition in Cana knowing how to build is good but knowing how to sail is even better k I don’t know how to show the images of the crossing to us from New Zealand is thus at the heart of a very ambitious project consisting of offering Caledonians the opportunity to relearn navigation techniques ancestral those which allowed the people of the Pacific to conquer these territories from the island of Passover to Australia 1 year ago I was trained in the technique of high seas navigation so navigation is with the help of the clouds of the swell of the wind of the color of the sunsets of the stars which guide us at night there I had the chance to put it into practice there during a crossing between Haut and Ivanou so there it was 9 days 9 days of sea where with a captain Fidin who taught us we will tell the basics he hopes that one day his work will benefit young Canaques often torn between the modern world and their traditional society after having crossed all the oceans by sail a few years ago Philippe Naudin threw ink in the port of Numéa he embarked on the project of restoring a drua a canoe originating from the Tonga islands designed for the open sea I come from the world of offshore racing so we had never the fact that we copy the canoes by making catamarans our racing boats for me it’s a symbol of sustainable development they managed to make boats with natural products they made stones like that of 50 m just in wood with the link with ropes which made with nature uh there I think we have a lot of things to take from all that look lower your head and look from below look at the line here let go of it I’m holding it we the idea is that we are really going to leave it like that after that we are going to set up this project Philippe wanted it to be educational so he installed his canoe in a center dedicated to the reintegration of minors entrusted to the justice system there for the young people it’s interesting because it’s a lot manual in fact there are a lot of wood chisels drab of preparation it’s long it’s not easy and you have to be quite precise but it’s interesting what in any case the young people they seem very interested which is always nice what return to the tribe of Goro for Christian today is a big day friends have all come to lend a hand to help him put his pogal chop Christian finally sees his dream come true his canoe is ready to take to the sea even if he will first have to learn to master it and to sail but now Paris is won hope can be reborn throughout the country it’s our whole culture it’s what allows us to remember that our our ancestors were travelers it allows us to say that it’s possible if Christian succeeds it means it’s possible also for the youngest it will already give hope throughout the country and there we go again there it’s that’s what the I’m moved yanne there we are about 3 hours drive from Numéa we are in the center of the country there so rather north-west of New Acadeonia actually at the place called goyeta and where are you taking me so here I’m taking you to my farm I do Beauovin breeding there in hyper extensive breeding given the large surface area of exploitation and so a lot of work and as it’s my passion I don’t take it as a chore it’s it’s really my passion you were born here so I was born uh here I therefore come from the 4th generation uh in New Caedonia your ancestors how did they arrive here then that’s the origin of Bne there you go and they atoned and so uh when they were freed the concessions were granted to them okay what do we call you that maybe the caldoches so some don’t like this term who think it is pejorative, I completely accept this term of caldoche I have the impression that we were expected no then waited by my two boys and a friend who are going to accompany us this day so boys I present to you Tiga who is traveling hello Thomas hello Thomas Jérôme hello Jérôme very happy to meet you right away I suggest you go and gather the cattle so Tiga in the company of Jérôme in the buggy and I take the quad ok great yeah yeah yeah your father looks very happy there he is in his element yeah come come come do you share the same passion yes well he brought me since I was little so I have jrig that’s good I don’t think I would be able to go and live in Numéa from one day to the next what I can’t this is where I want to continue living what do you like most about me it’s well the horses well the horse he is part of breeding yeah so well that’s that’s it you’re racing too well I’m in it now I’m in you’re out you’re out yeah I ah yeah you really pushed the passion to the limit what well yes me I’m the only local what this year you’re the only one in the area you can say especially from Caledonia I’m the only Caléonian I can’t wait to see you on horseback you’re going to see me it’s not really that this one is going to be my horse yes to accompany you yes he’s beautiful eh what’s his name hello Youan my name is Tiga and I’m not really used to riding ah ah well so we’re going to have to get into the rhythm straight away in the bath since well there’s a certain position to hold on the herd we each have our usual places and the herd is relatively used to it so everything should go well okay come on Youlan come on here oh there I feel good there guys al it’s not the big expeditions of the West because we’re not going far it’s all the time we gained by gathering them with the quad this morning with the quad yeah come on come on hey hey hey hey hey ah it’s going well yes so now the herd is going to go to an assembly point before we redirect them towards the square we ‘re going to take them back then go okay go go go go go go go on the road road hey hey hey hey hey hey hey hey go he e go go go he e slowly go let go let go take the two there there are several breeds of cows there no here it’s all brouisines what are brouisines well it’s a Limousin bull which was crossed with brahmans verau bra with cows vach limousine the brahmans it comes from India that’s it no that’s it we’re going to the beach it looks like the first day of the sales there everyone is rushing you manage to make a living from it Yann from that yeah well I have a double function but we can we can make a living from it that is to say you have another job so I’m a school director ah it doesn’t look like ah yeah well no I wouldn’t have said so that’s 34 years that I have been in teaching and 12 years as a school principal so really breeding Beauin is your passion a secondary activity and a passion at the same time and well I didn’t expect to meet cowboys in New Caledonia but it’s nice cowboy it’s a very big word eh we have another another style of life but we are quite close what your name is so we can say the Calé de Boy there is a song in the territory which says that what does that look like then I wouldn’t know how to sing it to you the boys of the children of the stone and we were born in point bou that’s it he tampered a little bit with the hordes of wild horses galloping freely in the mountains in New Caledonia we could sometimes believe we are more in the American West rather than under the Trades of the Pacific since the arrival of the first settlers the horse is an intimate part of the Edonian culture and along the Embéa river it is not rare to attend this show a man and his horse taking a bath together steve Guouassem is an amateur racehorse trainer go one more time come on and today he is taking care of Spear Chris Light a thoroughbred that he bought some time ago well he has a bit of his character eh it took me a while to have contact with him and then well that’s it he started to forget his first owner a little and then connect a link with me at the Gouasems the horse is a passion shared by all marie-hélène the mother and Logan the son are also excited for the ipic race and don’t count their time to look after and train the horses in the family stable ah my son you do two laps too many and then three laps of quint there my daughter there it’s good my baby it’s good but now the new hobby of the family is the rodeo it’s good logan therefore changes mount to train for the big meeting to come that’s an idea of ​​the Australians when they came to do training in Caledonia and they gave us a diagram and that we made and then young people train on it what because it goes so quickly on the animals that we are better able to regulate our actions on the FU step by step despite his young age Logan is already very experienced for 3 years he has been practicing this demanding and dangerous discipline this year he is even at the head of the Caleonian championship I have an advantage is that I am not I am never stressed can don’t mix fear and the rod if fear really takes over you shouldn’t do it because that’s when you risk hurting yourself or you are you are you have less reflex than when you are 100% of you direction Paita at the gates of Numea logan must participate in the last rodeo of the season organized on the occasion of the traditional beef festival an event bringing together all enthusiasts of bush culture last obligation before entering scene the blood alcohol test it must be negative in case things go wrong and a participant has to undergo a surgical operation marie-hélène Logan’s mother is also at the party she actively participates in the smooth running of the rodeo in general in the Guissem family we do things as a family often I am asked if it scares me that my son rides in a rodeo or not I like it as much as he rides a roueo that he is at the top of his form and his level rather than going to ride can gym with cars or go get adrenaline elsewhere it’s Logan’s turn to enter the arena he must last at least 8 seconds on the raging bull to hope to win the competition and the championship at the same time logan only lasted 4 seconds, a disappointment for those who hoped to end the season in apotheosis, I didn’t do the least I hoped to do, but as I said there, I’m going out with everyone and I’m whole, so it’s good, victory or defeat, it doesn’t matter for the Guassems, daily life will continue to be rhythmic to the pace of the horses hello hello Tiga, hello Justine, I’m also super happy, frankly, I arrived from the airport, it’s so beautiful it’s the largest island of the loyalty islands here and you asked me to bring you tobacco so I brought you some you’re a smoker so why did you ask me for tobacco it’s for the custom what is the custom it’s a ritual to be accepted in my culture okay so it consists of offering tobacco here is a cloth and a currency and to whom we are going to give these gifts so uh the great chieftaincy so there she is a friend of yours who neck of the dresses which is here Louise her name is Louise hello little guy how are you Louise hi Louise welcome to Wad de couture Justine will make me meet the chef here is the big chef of the chief to try to be integrated accepted in your home do you have a fabric ah yeah I actually have one left ah it’s beautiful with hibiscus is it going to please the Yes that’s already it let’s see a little bit what’s here she has the choice there yeah eh but she has beautiful dresses in addition all the dresses there it’s you who made them yes they are traditional Canaoc dresses yes they have a name these dresses at the beginning it was the remission now it’s the ropinée popinée here’s how much I owe you Louise for all that please then that will make you 10000 please 10000 10000 peaceful francs that’s it thank you thank you Louise hello Louise hello then we arrive again in a sacred place where you will be able to do your custom okay it’s the great chiefdom it’s the great chiefdom you have the great chief h of the district of Gaicha okay so the entrance door tigar tell me Justine how it’s going to happen what I must not do or say or I don’t want to be clumsy well first of all you arrive in front of the door like a door when we have just entered you always lower yourself through humility and respect and you present your custom I must speak to him yes open your heart to him he is there for you he is waiting for you do not be afraid so give up yes before and bozou hello hello my name is Tiga I have come to introduce myself to you I am traveling in New Caledonia that I am really seduced by your archipelago by its nature by your cultural wealth and I have come to ask you with this custom for permission to discover your life in society to discover your crazy island with a lot of humility I hope to be able to be part of your family at the milkman first of all welcome here to the great chfferie of the Gaicha this is a key the custom it is a key so it is with this this gesture that we are going to open the door you are at home do what you are going to do the door is open that’s it thank you very much it’s me who thanks you for your trust ole do we have everything we’re going to take the breakdowns h okay because we need breakdown to be able to float well with the wetsuits also in fresh water lamps especially lamps because inside it is dark and total darkness justine you really need to tell me where are we going exactly we are going to my beautiful cave which belongs to the family it is on our terreses but also to the tribe now you have been accepted into the family so now I am going to show you another world from my home great are we ready oh but I think we is ready we have everything do we have a lot of steps we have a quarter of an hour beef tongues what it looks like beef tongues watch out for the feet how beautiful it is Justine well for me this is my place of meditation also the calm it’s grandiose what feels so small there wait you go barefoot you yes I’m used to it wow it looks clear the water yeah it’s fresh water it’s so beautiful so you see the same we were talking about coral that which was already formed millions of years ago under the ocean and with the movements of the tectonic plates you see you have the pillars which are moved in fact the limestone has formed stalactites that’s it and before with erosion you love what you do ah I love why because I never tire of nature eh so it’s a pleasure for me to discover my heritage and at the same time to raise awareness among people from outside and also already above all the people on my island about the environment because we fight a lot about the environment and pollution and there you are going to share with me your treasure yes the water is fresh the water is fresh it’s okay it’s going to be okay we’re going to leave the light yeah be careful you put the p’s okay and the legs so what impression does this d I have the impression that we are surrounded by vanilla ice cream yes that’s it you see nice we are in a in a pastry shop in a vienoiserie so Tiga yes look you have these beautiful raps and all that happened naturally there and it was created how with the infiltration of the water which comes up here okay so you see it’s clean it’s white h so it’s also due to the purity of what’s above otherwise it could be black black that’s yeah okay so that’s a good indicator that’s the environment is healthy agree above it has to continue hence my awareness and preservation and I do it all the time yes at most as vast as Martinique l’fou is 30 times less populated with only 10,000 inhabitants it’s here that Michel Molet and Isar Wala live two young modern artists open on the world but firmly attached to their island and their culture Canac Michel Molet grew up near the bay of Château Brillant the beach of his childhood inspired some of his compositions like this song called Oéan which speaks of this party beyond the horizon it spoke of the departure of one of my friends in fact it is his departure in fact which inspired me this song and it is above all the image in fact of the sea and the ocean often it is what separates us in fact from suddenly it’s my cradle it’s where I grew up I spent all my holidays here with my grandparents v I bathed in the sea with my brothers and sisters everything it’s my point of reference it’s where it all began and where I think I’ll end it all even if her unique voice has long since crossed the limits of the island michel decided to stay and live in Lifou out of love for her island every day she goes to the village pharmacy where she learns the profession of preparer hello how are you yes and you are fine after some notable performances on the Caledonian stages and televisions Michel’s colleagues and the customers of the pharmacy are all fans of the young singer and predict a great artistic career for her when she came to the pharmacy the first time I said to her “But you are Michel Molet the singer and it’s true that I am a fan the customers when she is there in front he says to us “Oh she’s our little star.” She has something that the others don’t have that’s what’s important michel lives at her grandmother’s house day after day she learns traditional knowledge and the foundations of customary culture here look it’s lovers that we say lovers because if we miss it it sticks so I said amoule you tell me how that for me it’s a dictionary herself I had a little titt she showed me the fern in the juice is used in fact to put it in the ear it was effective for once and so that’s well it’s part of our riches what Michel and his grandmother receive a visit from Issa who has come to share the traditional dish and that’s someone who does a lot of things she is she writes she directs films short films she dances she also sings she is multitalented I would say Isarla is a recognized writer in New Caledonia and although she studied in France traveled to India in Canada and in many countries of the Pacific Isa has always felt the call of Lifou here I feed on lots of things but what is strange is that I have to go far away to be able to write it because when I’m here I live it voluntarily I’m going to Noméa because I know I’m going to be bored and so I’m going to write it quickly too with her grandmother she speaks to her André the most spoken of the 28 languages ​​canc it’s in this language that as a child she listened to bedtime stories she always tells us these Jenny there it’s Cinderella except that instead of marrying a prince he marries she’s a chef and I remember that once when she told me about it I said to her “But néné, did you steal from Walt Disney?” And then she said to me, “Well no, it was my mother who told me about it and her mother my grandmother.” And yes, so here it is uh the fact that I am a writer uh I get a bit of this taste for words and travel from her Isa tries to pass it on to the children of her tribe Samir received the bike is it said where he has been dreaming for a long time or dreams every week after helping them with their homework she invites them to express themselves through the theater we improvise in improvisation take sides to put yourself around ah you are live there go ahead make your faces oh so lucky yesterday he ate fried steak with salad you can send for us who eat sardines every day lol yes dad don’t worry I’m doing my homework oh no but why I’m friends with my father played in front of the whole tribe the recipe for the show will allow the little troop to go off to discover the great land so close and at the same time so far from where bonou bozou good that hello little guy how are you are you concentrated I’m chasing away the flies that are circling it’s your mom yes hello hello then I’m Tiga singing you how will mother Ra be and there you arrive for the preparation of the bouard the bouard that’s what we’re going to eat it’s a traditional Melanesian dish okay and all that is prepared in a banana leaf there are some for how many people there I made a big bouard for four or c people four or five people okay that’s it it’s finished all that’s left to do is put it in the bath tue that’s it Marie I go slowly there you go little guy slowly there you go slowly it’s going to be good this bou and that’s it then Tiga while the bou is in the middle of cooking I’m taking you to a school to show you the traditional dances Canac and crazy oh great pane ce na pane pique But you’re so beautiful all there boy this surprise pleased you yes great I made lots of friends so now we’re going to go see the bougac as it was in the middle of cooking I think it’s going to be cooked we’re going to go and enjoy now ok that’s good great come on let’s go hello ah but no we haven’t made enough bouia for you all but next time hello watch out it’s hot the good it’s hot is it not too heavy oh the magnificent decor amen there you go and well congratulations mom even the chicken there it’s perfect it’s okay you’ll have fun in any case these beautiful escapes in New Caledonia end around a bonbonia prepared by you mom Will be thank you very much as this trip progresses we have discovered an exceptional diversity of landscapes and a unique natural park what makes this country beautiful are the Caledonians themselves, people like you who have intelligently protected their natural and cultural heritage with a lot of love and with a lot of courage also for that I congratulate you and I thank you because I sincerely think that there are very few places left like that preserved on earth and I have to go home my heart is heavy with you leave I thank you for accepting me in your life in your daily life on your earthly paradise thank you I will always be welcome here in any case thank you very much Justine and to know the good addresses for this trip find me on the social networks I say see you soon for new trips and new adventures aunt that’s it ooh that’s it