🌿 Loin du tumulte des villes, il existe une autre Provence. Celle des villages perchés, des rochers sculptés par le temps et des ruelles fleuries.
Amoureux de la France et du patrimoine, ses trésors n’auront plus de secrets pour vous 👉https://bit.ly/4dnI1h1
De Saignon à Simiane-la-Rotonde, en passant par Viens, les pierres racontent l’histoire d’une terre fière : celle des co-seigneuries médiévales, des gorges oubliées, des châteaux à la silhouette imposante, et des traditions paysannes qui façonnent encore les paysages.
🔍 François pousse les portes du château de Simiane, observe les voûtes de la rotonde, retrouve la maison de son père et assiste aux efforts des habitants pour faire revivre ce patrimoine fragile. Plus loin, c’est un pigeonnier du XVIIe siècle qui renaît en bibliothèque, ou encore une tour médiévale dégagée à force de patience et d’entraide.
L’aventure continue à Gordes, Saumane, Oppède-le-Vieux, Brantes ou encore Banon, entre lavandes, pierres sèches, savoir-faire artisanaux et art de vivre local. Chaque village, chaque visage rencontré témoigne d’un amour profond pour cette terre rude et lumineuse, entre le mont Ventoux et les vallées du Toulourenc.
“Mon village en Provence”
Un documentaire de la collection Des Racines et des Ailes, écrit et réalisé par Florence Troquereau .
© ECLECTIC PRODUCTION – Tous droits réservés – AMP
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“And there is the pretty side of Mont
Ventoux, you see it across. The famous giant of Provence, which is the
most important peak in the area. » François Guyonnet is from Provence and
has always lived in this region. He is a heritage curator and has been
studying the villages of Provence for 30 years. “There we will fly over the village of
Saignon. Saignon is hung on a relief which was occupied by several
castles here, a co-lordship, therefore. » “It is a rock, the rock of
Bellevue, which dominates the valley of Apt. » “We are incredibly lucky to be able to fly
because the lavender is still in bloom!” “It is part of certain bases of
Provençal Mediterranean culture, that is to say the vine, the olive tree, which we hardly see any more in the
area, a little lavender and cereals. » His mission today takes him to the heart of the Luberon. “We can clearly see the village of Viens on the right
, it’s sublime, a very, very beautiful view of the historic village. So the medieval tower
on the right with what remains of the merlons. So the site of the castle under the old regime. There,
near the cemetery, you can clearly see the church, which is a very beautiful Romanesque church, remodeled a
little later. We can therefore see the importance of concentrated housing, housing clustered around the
fortified core. There were hilltop dwellings before the medieval period, but it was really during the Middle Ages
that all these villages were formed. On its way, it will fly over
a spectacular site. “Here we are approaching the Oppedette gorges,
so it is a natural curiosity, it is quite impressive to see
the depth of this gorge with in the background the Calavon which is a river which
flows into the Durance beyond Cavaillon. » « So here we see the village of Oppedette. There
we have the prototype of the village which is clinging to a relief on the edge of the gorges.
So a naturally defended site. A little further on, François is expected in a
village that he has been studying for several years. A gem of architecture and history, a
little away from the most frequented sites. “There, we should see Simiane there… -There, look on the hillside!
-Yes ! Very clearly! With its valley, the forests above. It’s splendid, we can
really see the junction between the plain and the Simiane valley which allowed this village
to live and develop, to prosper. » « I come often because
my father lives in Simiane in the plain, maybe we can
catch a glimpse of his house there? » Before landing, François wants to go
around Simiane to observe the castle. “It is a village very famous for its rotunda,
for its castle. This is truly something exceptional in
medieval architecture. It is truly the cradle, the mother house of this great family
of Agoult de Simiane, which is a family that truly ruled a part of Provence
for a number of centuries. ” It is in this very castle
that he now has an appointment. ” Good morning ! Welcome to the castle.
-Hello Olivia » The heritage curator worked
here about twenty years ago. Today he comes to take stock with
the manager of this exceptional place. “Yes yes yes and there we regularly have
little problems which worry me a lot because depending on the rain, the frost
in winter it moves a lot and we can see lizards, and so we
should stabilize it too. Maintenance…
Yes, well, it’s, yes, like a big house, there’s
always something to do, yes. ” If François is still interested in this
castle, it is because he carried out archaeological excavations there which allowed
the architecture of the place to be rediscovered. “Everyone knew the rotunda, which
is one of the most famous buildings in Romanesque Provence, but we passed by this
rotunda, forgetting that it was the strong element, the central point of a castle that had
completely disappeared. There was a street that ran through the center of the old courtyard,
facing the Rotunda, with its street lamp and which opened onto adjoining gardens. So
the archaeological excavation at the time in 2000 consisted of really finding the configuration
of the castle as we know it today. » It is inside that the architecture
of the rotunda is most surprising. This former defensive keep was transformed
into a state room during the time of the troubadours. “It’s always very moving to find yourself
in this upper room of the Simiane dungeon, because, for the time, it’s still
a vault that’s quite extraordinary! The designers of this rotunda
were influenced by other monuments, perhaps in the Holy Land, which dictated this
completely atypical plan. We have a 12-sided plan, which is extended by a dome which
is structured by these ribs, which converge towards an annular key.
With a design that is more the result of clumsiness on the part of the manufacturers. We must admit that we
are working on a very complicated project for the time and therefore we have difficulty
adapting these ribs to the central key. » Designed to evacuate smoke, the
summit key is decorated with sculptures. We can notably distinguish the
profile of the owners, the Agoult de Simiane family,
as well as their symbol: the wolf. Particular care has been taken in the
decoration of the columns all around the room. “Above this capital we have a sort of
console, a base with decorated figures, grotesque shapes, something
very simple, but at the same time very effective. We see it in particular in this one, a
character who evokes a grimacing monk, we see that his face is really twisted
by a sort of mimic, we see his tonsure, and he is the only character who looks towards
the entrance. There is every reason to believe that it was a privileged place for the spectacle,
for the story, for the songs of gestures, which were current at this time at the turn
of the 12th and 13th centuries; with one of the noble families of Provence, the
most involved in the art of the troubadours. » Jean Bascou often comes to the Rotonde to
perfect the sound of his instruments. He is a harpsichord maker in Simiane. It
is also one of the most famous in France. “We instrument makers have a habit of always
trying out our instruments in identical places
and often with identical parts. We find ourselves on these same notes in these same
places to judge the relevance of doing this or that action on an instrument. These are
a bit like references or touchstones. And it is true that this rotunda, inhabiting
Simiane, is an absolutely extraordinary touchstone for the quality of
the acoustics and the musical interest of the place. ” In the castle courtyard,
residents are mobilizing. Like every month, they embellish
the treasures of their village. “So to make the holes we’re
going to have to dig a little!” » It was Jean-Yves Meignen, a gardener based
in Simiane, who initiated this project 3 years ago. “I started this because obviously,
I care about the flowers, so I say: come on, could
n’t we form a team and get started? And there was
direct enthusiasm! And then we know it’s going to be fun! As they say, it will resonate
in the village! Right away, these are things that are visible and that are very
rewarding, I think for everyone. » For the courtyard’s flowers, Jean-Yves selected plants
linked to the history of the castle. “This garden here is mainly focused on
aromatic plants, thyme, lavender, savory, sage. In this castle, aromatic plants
were also part of these small medieval gardens where there were some vegetables
and many aromatic plants. » « I think it’s really great that the
locals are coming back to decorate the castle courtyard with flowers because the castle is a
common heritage that really belongs to all the people of Simian,
first and foremost. And to see them all today coming to beautify it and make
the garden bloom again, I find that quite touching. The residents continue their
work in the heart of the village.
For the alleys, Jean-Yves chose
very robust Mediterranean plants. “Here you have to resist the heat, the
dryness, but you also have to resist the cold, the winters are very, very
marked here in Haute Provence. » Live Femme and Jean-Yves Meignen,
Gardener of the Abbey of Valsaintes “Jean-Yves, are we cutting the irises already?
-We cut all the damaged leaves, yes! “The people who are here, who live in
Simiane, are lovers of the village. How should I say, I don’t know
if it’s the people who chose the village or if it’s the village that
chose the people, but there you go, so it’s this love of old stones, I think,
that brings us together and makes the village what it is! There is still a spirit in
the village which makes us very united. François walks the streets to observe what makes Simiane special:
magnificent, richly decorated doors. It was the arrival of master glassmakers during
the 15th century that made the village’s fortune. They came from Italy to exploit the
mineral resources of the Simiane plain. “From the end of the 16th century, the population became
somewhat richer and this is reflected in its architectural achievements. It is very clear
since everyone tries to create an entrance, to magnify their home to also show
… their rank or social status. » “Ah, there’s a superb facade
!” It is very very beautiful because it has not been restored
! so it’s in its own juice. » This door dates from the beginning of the 17th century. Inside, François discovers
unexpected decorations in a village house. “A very beautiful entrance with a coffered vault
! It’s splendid! We know that in the Alpes de Haute Provence there are a certain
number of plasterwork entrances like this in halls and staircases. And then it continues everywhere, there you go,
on every flight. Look: all this plasterwork with these rose windows, the impressive vaults
! A whole series of small ribbed vaults, in fact, in some ways artificial, at
least from a structural point of view, but it is very decorative. Bases with
plants, chiseled ribs, hanging keys. It is invaluable
because here we have all the know-how of the master plasterers, those who worked with
plaster at that time. These are still traces,
tenuous vestiges, we must be careful, we must preserve them. » The heritage curator sets off
through the village streets. He wants to show us a unique facade. “Here we have something interesting because
it is what we call a fishbone device. It is a facade which was
probably originally a dividing wall between two rooms of a house because
that is also the evolution of the urban fabric of the village: there are parts
of houses or complete houses which have been destroyed to make way for
gardens which now give this somewhat airy appearance to this urban fabric which
was once essentially dense. » François now arrives at
the small market hall of Simiane. It dates from the 16th century. and offers a breathtaking view. “Here’s the panorama!” We can clearly see the
Simiane plain, with all the surrounding reliefs. We see that the village has developed beyond
the enclosure. And then a certain number of aristocratic country houses, notably this building
here with its outbuildings and its dovecote. ” This is where François is expected. In the lower part of the village, he joins the new
owner who is restoring this 17th century estate. He comes to assess his dovecote which
has retained its original layout. “Hello, how are you?” » « What is interesting is that the roundness
of the dovecote echoes the roundness of the rotunda, and a little bit the roundness of the village. And
so when people see it from the road, people have that perspective.
-Oh yes, that’s right! -Hop after you!
-THANKS. » Patrick Garo plans to redesign the interior of the dovecote while preserving
the originality of its architecture. “Oh yes… it’s superb there!” “The staircase was positioned on this tree
with an axis which therefore rested on the ground here and which had to be fixed, moreover
which was fixed on this roof beam, this purlin. We see the hole! So it’s an axis, it allowed the ladder to turn in
the dovecote and go towards each cell. » Over 4 m high, nearly 300
cells line the curve of the wall. “It’s impressive, everything is made of plaster
with probably a small wooden structure inside, at least some tablets, in any
case there was a sort of module or template, which allowed these cells to be created, by
pouring plaster which was systematically transposed. We created the cells on the
shelves and then we recreated a shelf above and repeated the same
construction process. It is almost the same traces that appear in each alveolus.
He’s a kind of mechanic, quite simply. » Looking more closely, François discovers
graffiti under the whitewash. “L. Auguste” is great, it really pops.
– It’s also well written, it’s a bit of stylish writing!
-A calligraphy that can already be found in the 18th century. » « That’s what’s interesting: the
discovery of traces that may seem anecdotal, but all of that allows us to go
back in history and understand a little about who built this dovecote, and
who understands and carefully rehabilitates it. » «The idea that appears obvious when we see the
structure is to preserve as much as possible in its original state and therefore to adapt it into a library.
Because using the cells, even if it means arranging them a little to be able to put
books there with a staircase that allows you to go around and get these books! It
seems the most suitable for the structure, it allows us to keep it a little in its original form while still
having a function for us in the house. It is truly a place conducive to reading. So.
And then it would be beautiful, it would be magnificent. » François now leaves Simiane to
go to another remarkable commune. “It’s absolutely amazing to have this
view. What is impressive is that we see that the smallest piece of land that is
cultivable is still being exploited there. » Along the way, he will fly over the most
beautiful hilltop villages of the Luberon. They are clinging to the sides of this
mountain: a natural barrier 60km long. The plane will cross the massif to
follow the southern flank, following the Durance. It will then go back up towards
the village of Saumane-de-Vaucluse. “Here we are in the heart of the Luberon massif,
that is to say between the Petit Luberon and the Grand Luberon! And there we arrive at the Aigue
Brun valley. The Aigue Brun is a small river which flows beyond the Lourmarin valley;
it is this river which created the Lourmarin valley. ” On leaving the Combe, the plane
comes into view of the village of Lourmarin, dominated by the silhouette of its castle. It was built in the 15th century. on the
ruins of the medieval fortress. “The Château de Lourmarin, which is truly
the emblem of Renaissance seigneurial architecture , is administered by
a foundation which is in some ways a small Villa Medici in the area,
since its purpose is to welcome artists who come
very regularly to create. » The aircraft approaches the village of Ansouis,
sheltered from the Mistral by the Luberon. “Seen from a plane, it’s impressive. The facade of the
house built in the 17th century overlooks gardens, terraced gardens,
French gardens which were perhaps inspired by the famous gardener Le Nôtre. » From the ridges of the Luberon massif,
at an altitude of around 1000 metres, there is a bird’s eye view of
the Durance plain to the left of the aircraft. It is the largest river in Provence
: it irrigates the surrounding villages. “We must imagine that these lands
were reclaimed from the Durance from the moment when man was able to tame it, especially
from the 1960s. Before, we cultivated it, but it was still much
more precarious: the river being capricious, many agricultural lands were swept away during floods. Holy shit, it’s beautiful,
huh? So here we are, crossing the western end of the Luberon to be able to start
along the northern flank, the North Luberon! » François now crosses
the plain of Comtat Venaissin. It borders the foothills of the Luberon which
hide the village of Oppède-le-vieux. “So it’s a village that is extremely
famous because it’s more than picturesque, it’s absolutely magnificent, the ruins
of this castle and then the ruins of the old village which have been left as they are
and preserved forever. » «Here is the seat of a papal castle, formerly a castle of the Count of Toulouse
but with the passage of this territory from Toulouse to the Pope, well obviously there was
a natural transfer of power. » “I’m heading for Gordes!” » The plane approaches the golden triangle, bordered
by the most popular villages of the Luberon. Situated on the Monts de Vaucluse, here is
Gordes, the most famous of them. “We can clearly see the position, therefore, a
hilltop village which is the very emblem of the region, of this region of the Luberon. A village
that was the gateway to Provence which has fortunately been preserved
since the 1960s. “A Renaissance castle, a church
dating from the 18th century. and a habitat which is largely grouped and which follows
the contour lines in its layout. » François arrives in Saumane-de-Vaucluse,
his final destination. “Saumane is also a magical place,
in the heart of the Vaucluse mountains with the castle overlooking the old village which
ends with its parish church. ” Below the castle, he
joins Laure, a childhood friend. She is the one who initiated the clearing of
this old medieval tower which had been left abandoned. ” Good morning !
-Here François, can you bring this back please!
-Go, gladly. -It’s good ?
-Perfect ! -THANKS ! This assembly line work, I say! » “It is a medieval tower which must date from the 12th
or perhaps the end of the 12th, beginning of the 13th century. It is a tower that belonged to the local aristocracy,
minor nobility, probably knights, who therefore erected this building to symbolize
power. It is ideally placed on the tip of the promontory: what we see
from here is a rather impressive panorama with over there on the left side we see
all the crests of the Luberon, of the Petit Luberon, we see the plain of the Comtat, with
the hill around Cavaillon, and then we see the Alpilles, the Alpilles which
flow into the Durance valley, with all the crests which go
as far as Arles there it is quite impressive to see this panorama which is
particularly clear today. » Laure Luxton has lived in Saumane for 15 years. And
she is very involved in the life of her village. “It’s also by being there that we realize
the extent of the work that remains to be done, obviously, because there are still many,
many things to simply clean up and then put back in place afterwards because it’s a
shame to let it collapse when it still has an important historical value for
everyone, for the village and for us. » “It’s amazing how much it changes the whole look
once it’s all clean!” You saw! » She gathered about ten
of her neighbors. Among them, Igor, who has just arrived from the Paris region. “I’m new here so it allows me to
meet people, usually I’m more from big cities and that’s been lost a
little bit and here in Saumane it’s true that the friendliness and these enthusiasms are
constant so it’s very pleasant! » “It’s fabulous to see a
local population, inhabitants of a village, taking these heritage issues seriously.
And so to be interested in saving from ruin, in any case in clearing these remains, so that we
can then study them and rehabilitate them, so it is a real
citizen involvement in the direction of heritage. » At the top of the village stands one of the
most astonishing castles in the region. For more than 3 centuries, this
fortress belonged to one of the greatest families of Provence: that of the
famous Marquis de Sade, who grew up here. Today, François discovers
the recently completed restorations of this bastion, transformed into a
prestigious estate during the Renaissance. “The characteristic signs of the bastion are
perceptible even in this axis, that is, the salient. We can
clearly see that we have a military-type fortification, but it is positioned in a
location that is not strategic. When you have a bastion, you generally have a place that
is clear. This is not the case at all. So we have a fortification which is a symbol of
power and not a defensive fortification. » The Sade family also had
a very innovative device installed in the entrance postern. “There is a joke of the builders, a
novelty for the time: it is this gunboat on pivot! So you could put the gun
there, aim, fire, and then maybe pull it back. It is a sort of cylinder with a
hole in it, mounted on metal pivots. “On the south side, the castle no longer has anything
to do with a defensive bastion. The ancient medieval fortress is
adorned with sophisticated architecture. “So this facade tells
the story of the castle to the visitor, already because we can read almost
all the periods. The Sades added the attic floor seen here, that is,
above the cornice with motifs that are very traditionally found in
Renaissance architecture. » A style whose refinement can be found
inside the monument. “Here we have domes on pendentives with
this main dome which supports the coat of arms of the Sade family, and we have
this whole decorative series of niches with pediments where all the
Italian influence here develops: we see very clearly that the master builders or
the sponsors were inspired by the great masters of
Italian architecture of the time, Palladio etc. ” As for the staircase, it evokes the Pantheon in Rome. “We see that there is an
extremely complicated barrel vault, with a series of coffers as we find in Renaissance architecture
directly inspired by antiquity. » The staircase contains
another curiosity of the castle. “We see the degrees, that is to say the
steps which are outlined here which do not necessarily all have the same dimension. And
then on the opposite side we have the impression that this staircase remained unfinished or
on the contrary that we wanted to make a ramp but for what reason? You
can’t always explain everything. » At the end of the day, François
returns to his friend Laure Luxton’s house. She thinks that her house may
also be an ancient medieval tower. “So here we are!”
-Come on, follow me, it’s happening upstairs. It’s here.
-Ah, that’s a good start! ” In the living room, it is on the window side that François will find a
first element of an answer. “You can see the thickness of the walls here.
-There’s more than 1.20m there. -Ah yes at least I think so. Well, the window.
-You already have a beautiful window, a nice thickness of wall, a beautiful stonework
! And then it looks like it’s a banner. » It allows you to support a floor.
We saw the same one this morning in the tower, which fully confirms the
contemporary side of the two towers. » On the top floor is
the most telling clue. “Oh yes, it’s superb! What a beautiful vault! -So there you go, now it’s your turn to tell us…
-It’s a broken barrel vault, you see. On the other hand, I wonder if it is really
contemporary with what we saw below or on the street because usually a vault
like this is fitted with dry joints, here we see that there are large joints, certainly which could have been
taken up later but there is still a variation in the position of the stones.
But it’s still a medieval vault I think. That makes a beautiful room!
-Yes, it’s pretty, it’s nice! » «For us, this is the most important thing in the
house. So it’s really the highlight of the show, let’s say! So it’s quite atypical, some
will think that it’s heavy in the literal sense of the term because they are there, they are very present,
but it’s still a warm house, good things come out of it and we
live well there, in fact we live very well there. The art of living in Saumane also means a
certain form of village conviviality. “Hi, how are you?”
-It’s okay, it’s okay !
-Are you coming for a drink? » Laure invites her friend to a very
popular meeting among the locals: the street drink. “In Saumane, my neighbors and I are very
fond of these street pots. We meet regularly in front of the wash house or in
the street to have a drink or a bite to eat. Everyone brings a little of what they have in the fridge,
it’s always improvised, there are young people, there are old people, there are children and
there you go, it creates a bond in the village. ” Despite the mistral, around thirty
villagers responded. “It’s a pleasure because during the
day it’s hot and we’re at home, we’re locked up. Without it we can’t see each other!
We all have houses, they are not fortresses, but they are barricaded against the sun! So !
We are very good! It’s a beautiful village! “We don’t know loneliness
because there are so many things to see, do, etc. and all that, we are good!
-Yes, it’s very practical, we don’t take the bus, the metro, we take 3’, 1’, we’re… There you go!
-That’s very nice! We love it! » In the heart of Provence stands the
highest mountain in the region. Mont Ventoux is visible from 100 km away. With its limestone summit resembling
eternal snow, it rises to an altitude of over 1900m. This Giant has always fascinated and attracted
the inhabitants of the surrounding villages. “That characteristic sound of stones!
-It’s the sound of the end! ” ” We are happy, we are almost at
the summit, we are on the scree. And you can discover both sides of Mont Ventoux.
There we have the south face descending there and the north face which begins to appear, the Alps
and the sun which will soon rise. “It ‘s mid-July, 6 a.m. Nathalie David, a local girl,
completes her ascent of the summit of Ventoux. She is accompanied by two friends who,
like her, are fans of this special moment. “It looks like the beginning of the world, nothing
pollutes the image. It’s… the mountains, the light, and it’s a
moment, a moment of grace. “Everything lights up from behind.
-Yeah. – There we can already see the Vercors taking
shape! I love this moment! -that’s the coldest time!
Look at all these colors, it’s magnificent! -Ah, he’s almost there!
-There are the Baronnies in the foreground, we can clearly see the Lure mountain, it
lights up at the same time as the Ventoux. » “I always feel like
it’s the first time. This is what makes us want to go up,
up, again and again. » All three live at the foot of the mountain. As regulars, they know that they must
quickly look at the other side, where an ephemeral phenomenon is taking shape. “What is spectacular is that
the sun has risen behind us and the summit of Ventoux is projected,
the shadow of the mountain is projected onto the plain of Comtat Venaissin.
Once the sun rises, the shadow will get shorter and we will see it less
and less. So it’s a spectacle of a few minutes from the moment the sun comes
out of the Alps, in the East. » «Yellow, purple» «It’s called the Greenland hairy poppy,
it’s the small flower that’s actually symbolic of Ventoux! Because here we are in Provence but
it is a flower of arctic climates! Moreover, Ventoux has almost all the climates of the
planet, namely the Mediterranean climate on this side. On the other side we really have a
slightly colder climate, we would say a little more continental towards Sault where it is very hot
in summer and very cold in winter and here obviously the weather conditions are very complicated hence very little
vegetation can grow at this altitude. » «Ventoux does not come from the wind, even
if there is wind all the time or very often, it comes from the word vintour which
means “which can be seen from afar”. “As soon as we see the tower, it means that
the end of the climb is near; we will be rewarded, we will see the other side. -It’s Cape Canaveral in Provence
! Destination Moon, here we go! » The three friends pass on
the northern slope of Ventoux. This is a good time to catch a glimpse of the
very discreet inhabitants of these places. “And down there, don’t you think
there’s one down there at the end? -At the edge of the trees!
-We see the little chamois there, we see a whole little herd coming down! It’s
always magical to be able to observe a wild animal like that up close, to watch it,
it’s always marvelous, it’s fast, it’s agile! So it’s a privilege.
-It feels like a family since there are adults and little ones!
-Yes, there are lots of little ones. Look at ! they play!
-Yes, they are ping-pong balls! / It’s superb! » From this promontory, they also have a
breathtaking view of their small village of Brantes. “And the village, you see,
look, it’s just above. -I can clearly see the two hamlets
: the hamlet of La Frache and Les Bernards, and I can clearly see
the shoulder of the village in the extension. -So ! Between the 2 hills he is
leaning on the rock, right there! » “It’s really a place to which I am extremely attached because first of all I
think that Ventoux and I had a real crush and I could never
imagine living anywhere else but there. » “This valley is the one I chose
to come and spend my life, raise my child and ensure that our villages in the
Toulourenc valley are also alive and rich. » Their valley is one of the
most secret in Ventoux. Nestled at the foot of the
north face of the Giant of Provence, it is home to three hamlets of less
than a hundred inhabitants each. Brantes is the only hilltop village in Toulourenc. This is where Nathalie set up her
bookstore about ten years ago. Every day, in the summer, she opens her shop onto the street
and invites passers-by to come and read. “So on these little green squares every
morning I put two favorites, it changes every day and today
I chose the joys of watercolor because it is a village that is painted a
lot. And this is the power of silence because in Brantes, it is silence
apart from the cicadas that we hear today. » Nathalie also created her own
publishing house which deals with her favorite subject. “The last little book I
did was a partnership with a photographer and a storyteller. It’s a
very small book. This is the start of a new collection! My approach is
really to highlight the Ventoux, it is really the promotion of this massif
on a natural level, on a heritage level, on a cultural level, so it can be from all
these angles. In any case, to highlight this mountain which is sometimes considered
a hill but which is a real mountain. » She regularly drops off second-hand books at a monument in Brantes, which has
found a new purpose here. “So, here we are, so we are in the
chapel of the white penitents, this small chapel is the headquarters of the association of
friends of Brantes which aims to renovate, to enhance the village and it is there
that these books will have a second life. Here people can buy them day and night, that’s what
makes the place special and what makes people happy, that is to say, if you have
a little insomnia you can always come here, everything lights up automatically and you go in and
calmly choose your book and leave with it, not forgetting to leave a small coin
in the box which is right behind you. » Nathalie sets off to meet one of the
most endearing figures in Brantes. He is one of the 80 diehards who
have chosen to live in the village. “Here there are no billboards, there
are no shops, you have to cross mountain passes to get here. Then you have to want to walk,
climb the cobblestones to get home. It’s truly a different way of living! Let’s say
it’s a village with people of character. We arrive at the top of the village,
it is Jean-Pierre’s forge. Maybe we’ll hear the hammer,
yes, we’ll hear the hammer! » «I’m making elements for
a ramp and the most difficult thing in my job is doing
the same thing several times! » “He’s our little star!”
Whenever people come, he is the one they come to see. It is undeniable,
everyone wants to see how this metal is worked and me, after so many years, every time
I watch I am totally hypnotized. » Of Alsatian origin, Jean-Pierre
arrived in the village 40 years ago. “Well, those were the nice years, the
love peace years, I had long hair, a beard, there you go, back to the land, back to
nature, I didn’t realize it was so difficult! I arrived
here with one hand in front and one hand behind, I bought ruins so I rebuilt everything!
I first made my workshop before I could work. At the time, we didn’t
really need blacksmiths, the forge was a luxury, but people knew that I knew how to build,
so they asked me to redo the roof, open a door, a window! »
“We can recognize all the houses, the barriers, everything he has done, he
really has Jean-Pierre’s touch in the local villages. He works with
passion and it shows in his work. » “It’s starting to get hot now,
so I’m going to turn off my forge and go cut some stones
under the almond tree!” To turn off the forge it’s easy, you remove the coal
so it goes out immediately. » “Did you make this door too?”
-Yes, I knew the standing oak, I felled it, I dried it, 4
years, since 1 cm of drying per year, and I forged… I thought that the best
advertisement I could do for myself was to make a workshop entrance that was pretty
! And the key too, of course, it is forged, finished with a file, it is a piece of metal, there
is no welding, there is no such thing. » In Jean-Pierre’s wake,
new arrivals have come to settle here since the beginning of the 1970s. They have repopulated and rebuilt the village
which had been abandoned a century earlier. Even today, Jean-Pierre
continues the restorations. “Well, let’s say it’s for a friend who
wants roughly the same door that I installed here and I’m cutting the hanger. So here I am making the
hollow. It’s a bit of a pain to do. » « I make templates, which
correspond to my stone and which I transfer onto this. This is
mine but it is a recovery, it is 400 years old. And I put it here to
partition off my little garden underneath. » “I didn’t learn to do anything.
I love my job, I love creating, I love doing. And I continue as long
as I can. Besides, I still need 2-3 lives to continue
everything I have in my head! A new family has
recently moved into the village. It is on this terrace that Rory White created
his new business: a micro-brewery. “That one is very refreshing !” Very fresh!
-A little light. ” He is English and as soon as he arrived in
Brantes, Rory suggested the idea of this craft beer to Pascale, who runs a restaurant here
. “We called our beer “La géante
de Provence” because the Giant is the name given here and
throughout France to Mont Ventoux! “So the beer is called “La Géante de
Provence” and la Géante is the name of lots of people locally and in France give
the name of the Mont Ventoux!” They also took
special care with the design of their label. “We see a geographical map which was made
by a gentleman called Jacques de Chieze, who was the Pope’s cartographer and who
mapped the entire Venaissin county in 1627. So there on this map we see the small
village of Brantes, with the two bell towers, we see the summit of Ventoux with the church of Sainte
Croix, Mont Ventoux…I don’t know, we thought it looked great in fact!
It was a bit vintage and it told a story! That’s what
we liked! It tells a story!3 After 20 years in recruitment in
England, Rory is starting a new life here. “When I left London I wanted to do
something more physical, to create things and simply give pleasure to people.
And I think that’s what I found!” “When I left London I wanted to do something
that was more physical, and something around creating something and giving people pleasure in
a simple way. And I guess that is what this is. » This morning, Pascale and Rory have just
brewed a new variety of beer. “Yeah, we’ll try it anyway to see.” » Tasting allows them to guess what
it will taste like after fermentation in the bottle. “It smells good, smell it.”
-THANKS. Very good, lots of flavor, a taste of honey!
-But I think she’s going to be very good, she’s going to be a very pretty blonde! » It’s noon: the end of
class at the village school. Rory and his French wife,
Vanessa, come to pick up their daughter. “Well, enjoy your meal
everyone! See you later ! » Until now the couple came to Brantes on vacation. Today, they discover
daily village life. “So Louna, who did you play with at school, tell me?
-Vanessa! » “I’ve been
coming to Brantes for a long time, 22 years, I loved it, and then one day I
took Rory who loved it too. “I was very apprehensive about
moving here, quitting my job, selling the house. But actually it’s great!
The weather is beautiful, and look at that view! » “There’s a lot of apprehension about coming here and leaving
my business and selling our house, and but it’s great, isn’t it! The
weather is amazing, the view!” Rory and Vanessa bought a
small house at the top of the village. They chose it for its view: one of the
most beautiful in Brantes on the Ventoux. “First day of school and we eat
outside! It’s great! I always say; you come to Brantes, either you like it, or something’s going on. And in fact
for us in Brantes, something’s going on.” “With all the holidays we’ve spent
here, we’ve really realized the things that matter to us, like being
in contact with nature, with the sun, it’s important, we eat good products
that have grown locally, that’s also very important. In fact, we just want to be
more in contact with our environment!” “So having come here on holidays, we’ve begun
to saw // things that we thought were really important and stuff like being in touch with
nature, the sun, important, eating food that is grown locally and tastes good, is important,
just being more in touch with your surroundings.” “We still have that! And in the morning when we
go out, this morning again I said to myself: ah, I’m going to take a deep breath and all
these good smells of nature, it’s…” This spectacular and
little-known view of Mont Ventoux is what the inhabitants of Brantes
want to promote today. “We’ll have to come back and cut
the path there a bit! We go forward 10m and there we are, we really have everything!” Nathalie and two volunteer friends mark out
a discovery trail on one of the most beautiful natural viewpoints in the valley. “There you go! So there, the view is
really magnificent! That is to say, we discover the whole Toulourenc valley from the
Maulan gorges, from Toulourenc to Savoillans, we see the Grillot there in the background, the
mountain in the middle, it’s called the Grillot, the sentinel in Provençal. And opposite we have the
mass of Ventoux, the north face of Ventoux! “Here is the hidden face of Ventoux, much more mysterious, much
wilder, and much more alpine above all.” Dominique Frank, the
group’s geologist, wants to set up an information station here to
tell the story of the mountain’s birth. “When Ventoux emerged from the water,
because here before it was the sea, the emergence of Ventoux is
about 85 to 90 million years ago, so it’s quite recent, it’s what we call a
young mountain that continues to rise, by the way.” “I try to get people curious about
where they walk, what they see, where they are in general, it enriches us from
the inside and that’s just as important!” “It’s true that it’s particularly good, I think!
-It’s good, eh.” Nathalie and her friends also work to
protect the most fragile sites. “It’s a bit slippery, eh!” This is the case here in the Gorges du Toulourenc. A site of exceptional richness, threatened by the hundreds of visitors who
come to cool off there every day in summer. “Now that’s beautiful…
Look there’s a trout! -Oh yes! Two!
-Oh yes! -Three! They’re right under the rocks!” “At this time of year the water is still clear, there are
n’t too many people and the fish can obviously continue to live, to
develop, or even to spawn a little longer before the season arrives where with its procession
of aquatic hikers, as the term is used here in the tourist offices, and there obviously
the biotope will be completely degraded.” “We can’t stop
people from coming because we’re happy to be able to…
-We don’t want to stop them! -No, on the contrary. We want to share this with
them but with the idea that we must preserve, therefore love by preserving and not leave a
trace of their passage. Just the photos! ” “We have extraordinary plants,
we have trees, the oldest trees in Vaucluse since they are more than
1000 years old. And this water which is there, abundant and fresh and clear, it is truly
a paradise! It is a paradise on earth!” The 3 volunteers approach a section of cliff. In this imposing natural setting, Dominique
rediscovers the very distant history of the valley. “It is the Toulourenc which dug, which made
its passage. The Toulourenc surely already existed before the gorges and when the base rose,
the mountains were formed, rose, the Toulourenc continued to make its way and it
cut into the rock and it passed through. And by walking like that in the Toulourenc the
game It’s about finding pieces of fossils ! Oh yeah, this one, look at that, we should
look at it more closely but it looks like a small fossil. We’re going to put it in water because
water reveals the colors much better and there, these vertical striations could be a
small piece of knife fossil in fact!” Among the discoveries, a vestige interests
Mélanie Bienfait, the group’s historian. “And here we have a flint nodule! The flint
from Ventoux was famous, people came to look for it from far away. Mont Ventoux in the Neolithic period
was the supermarket for flint and people came there, there were already major communication routes
that made it possible to transport it, no doubt for everything that was weapons, of course,
firelighting, etc. All the ancient tools.” Nathalie and her friends are
now returning to Brantes. “From this path we also have a breathtaking view of the village.”
-The bell tower, the church, the castle and the houses grouped all
around, a medieval village, a hilltop village.” They mark the future
historical circuit which will pass by the small chapel below the village. “So here we are on the path which descends
from the village to the cemetery, facing the north Ventoux. It is a path which is called a mule path, we see the
way in which it was positioned in the rock, it is the pace of the mule which is rhythmic. Brantes
is too modest to own horses, so we use the mule to do everything:
transport the harvests from the bottom to the top, transport what we need to the
plains. And eventually of course the deceased who come down from the village to
be buried there in this small cemetery.” This cemetery houses the pearl of the
chapels of the Toulourenc valley. “It is really the typical model of the small
Provençal Romanesque chapels with the apse in the shape of an oven, the
very very simple stone facings. And openings which are only on the south side so ready to fight
against all the mistral winds and everything that can happen in these small
churches that are on the hillside. ” “It has my favor because already it is very
harmonious it is in an enchanting setting and then it is a little far from the main
circuits and it is very little signposted on the paths so we will try to
highlight it, people must dare to approach, we do not necessarily want to enter
a cemetery but this one, there it is, it will be our little star
in relation to our path. ” ” We see immediately that here we are no longer
on a small chapel of pilgrimage and simple passage but really the church which
was the parish church of Brantes and which was therefore built with
much more advanced materials and techniques. We see it in particular in the quality of the proportions,
the height of the vault, and with arcatures, and a chapel which had to be reinforced by,
all the same, fairly massive pilasters, because we are still half buried
so it all has to hold! In terms of acoustics it is also very pleasant we
hear it, so we can imagine religious people who performed their services in the periods when
it was still used for worship. Shall we sing something?!
Come on, a little “salve”. ” We leave Brantes to go back up
towards one of the northernmost territories of Provence: the Baronnies. This land contains a natural treasure which has made the
reputation and wealth of the hamlets of the region. On these reliefs grow
aromatic and medicinal plants of a rare quality. It is therefore quite naturally in
Rosans that Jean-François Roussot came to settle to practice his profession. “I would tend to define myself as a
peasant herbalist with a somewhat particular practice since we work with
simples, that is to say plants aromatic and medicinal. We have the impression that the
spaces are a little poor in resources, you see it is quite arid, but where
in reality, there is still a great richness and a great diversity that we must
also know how to look at and also protect. ” It is a tree in particular
that has made the reputation of this corner of Provence: the lime tree of the Baronnies. “The lime tree is an old story, eh!
From 1860, we planted lime trees to replace mulberry trees to hold the
roads, in relation to the problem of landslides, because they have taproots
in fact. And so we inherit all these lime tree plantations which are
also the history of the Baronnies!” For a century and a half, the lime tree
was the green gold of the inhabitants of the region. It was in Buis-les-Baronnies that
the largest lime tree fair in the country. The flower, transported in these
large bundles of burlap, called bourras, was
then sent all over France. But this picking was abandoned in the
70s because of foreign competition. Until enthusiasts
revived this practice. Jean-François arrives in his village, Rosans. Here, each inhabitant has a lime tree in their garden.
“In Rosans, the lime trees have all frozen so now we are going to see in the valley
next door if there are any lime trees that are suitable for picking.” Jean-François has an appointment in a neighboring village
where he hopes to find mature lime trees. “Hello, here are the lime trees!” This is the first time that Jean-François
has discovered Maurice Unal’s trees. “I have a friend who told me: I know
someone who is looking to pick some linden trees. I told him: great, I have
some linden trees to pick, it’s a very good deal. I’ll never manage it on my own
! And I’m glad it’s useful because afterwards there’s a lot of waste, all that stuff stays
on the tree, then it falls off, which is a shame.” “Cut the branches you
want to the height you want, the linden trees are yours!
-Well, thank you!” The pickers only have one day to
harvest this linden tree before the flower fades. “That one’s quite full! There it’s
just ripe in fact… It’s almost ideal, that is to say all the flowers
are in bloom, we have a maximum of flowers, we have a few buds, so we consider it
good! So we can start.” ” So here we’re going to put a wooden pole
across it. The old people used to do it like that a lot! That is to say, a
few years ago we could still see trees where they had left
their poles in the lime trees, right through them. It was much more practical
for simply putting up ladders!” Jean-François enjoys
sharing and passing on these ancient harvesting techniques. Samuel Genas, a newcomer to the village, is
harvesting lime trees for the first time. “You have to put your hand between the leaves and
the flowers to try to grab a handful like that. And then you pull them out and move on
to the next one. When you have a handful, you put it in the bag and that’s it! I
feel like I’m participating again like that, rediscovering some of the local knowledge
and trying to keep it alive!” “I’m really interested in seeing young people
continue to do this and do it in good conditions. If you look around
us, the heritage is there! So the Heritage is not meant to be just something
frozen like that, it is something living that evolves with us etc. so it is this story
that I find beautiful to continue in fact. There are places where it is really pleasant.
There are kinds of big bunches like that! ” For Jean-François, this linden tree
is a free raw material. “Well the rest is difficult to access.” So, he prunes the trees carefully. “It is also the exchange that we make with the
owners of the linden trees, that is to say that if we pick the linden tree, we agree to
prune it properly. We do not just come and take like that what interests us, it has to be
fair for everyone.” “We settle in the shade We sort
a little, for example, this one is not pretty, this one I will leave, even
if the flower is very pretty! ” Traditionally, families would
gather under the linden tree; it was a form of social bond through action,
through activity, through work. We can’t imagine all that was said under the linden trees
! It is said that it is also the tree of reconciliation, it is a tree that brings a
certain harmony. Besides, you look at it, just observe a linden tree: it is
round, everything in the linden tree is soft! ” The linden trees grow in an area
punctuated by small gray mountains. It is one of
Jean-François’s favorite areas for wild picking. “You see opposite, you just have the marls
which are very present throughout the area, it is a remnant of the seabed!
It is true that here it is still a landscape which is really very specific
and characteristic of the Baronnies in fact.” It is in this spectacular setting
that Jean-François comes picking juniper: a plant already known to the Greeks
and Romans for its medicinal properties. “So, we’re going to dress up as pickers!
That’s the same, we’re not inventing anything, it’s also the few old people we saw at the start
when they saw me picking they said: OK, I’ll show you! And so they show us
how they used to put what we call ” saquettes” on! That allows us to pick and
have a pocket there behind! There are ripe berries! A beautiful juniper is a juniper
that is ripe, that is to say where the berries are very black. On a juniper like that I’m going to
harvest pieces of branches about 20 cm long. So I try to be careful
not to take too much because I want to come back next year!
And Next year, for example, the ones that are not ripe will ripen in a year
because juniper trees have a 2-year cycle.” Jean-François will distill these branches
to make essential oil. “Juniper is very good for
digestive problems, rheumatic problems. It’s a good tree for the
kidneys and for the eyes. And you can eat it, excellent! The connection between the territory
and the profession is really for me what makes the essence and the meaning of what we do. For
example, I couldn’t be a counter herbalist. I really feel like a sort
of intermediary between man and the plant.” Back to Rosans: a hilltop village
whose shape evokes the medieval past. Jean-François will be able to start
distilling the lime tree. “Here we go. So now we’re going to put it
to dry and then it will stay dry for about a week. The little bud when
you press you should hear a little noise, it should click! To be
sure that everything is dry! ” Most of the linden will be shipped
to herbalists all over France. But Jean-François always keeps a
stock to transform it into floral water. “Let’s go! We’re going to make steam,
in fact, to be able to distill!” “It’s a very old still, it’s a
1930 still that will soon be a century old. I like tools that carry
a little memory of what was done too. Copper preserves the aromas very, very well.” “Here we go” Less than an hour after starting it,
the still releases the precious floral water. “I remember long moments like that with
my father where just the drop flowed, we didn’t say anything, it was snowing outside,
inside it was hot, it was also an old still in copper. And maybe it’s these simple little joys
that we want to relive and recreate or try to recreate in our lives, to
find again. Maybe that’s simply it!” Like many other villages, Rosans is
mobilizing to attract new residents. The town hall is offering its
available land to young farmers. “Hello, hello!
-Hello -Here! I’ll bring you a little bit of work!” Jean-François joins Anne and
Samuel. They left the town 2 years ago to start farming. They are the first to benefit from the
Rosans support program. “So!
-Oh great -There’s some sage there! And there
are some rose geranium cuttings. If you can make some for me, that’s great!
– Yeah, that’s the goal! -And then you keep the rest.
-Okay.” For the 3rd season, the couple of young graduates experiences life
as a farmer in real life. “You see, these are the
tomatoes from the coulis, exactly – Oh yes, oh damn!
– All that is for the ketchups. – Behind it is where you had plowed and there it
gives 2 – 3 times more than what we had planned!” “Last year we didn’t
want to listen too much to the elders, we had read that plowing turned
the soil over and that it was therefore not good. And the 2nd year we said to ourselves, well, we’ll
try anyway, on the advice… of the elders! And there’s no question, it works better with plowing
! So there you go, we should have listened to them.” “They are completely autonomous, I don’t
worry about them! They will improve things, we did things in a certain way,
they will do them better. It’s the movement of the world! So it’s important that there is
this, I think, that we manage to maintain this link.” From now on, the rhythm of these former
city dwellers follows that of the seasons. “What I appreciate here is
the calm setting, of life, that! I love the sound of the bells and I really like
hearing them when I work (and it’s a good thing they’re ringing there!) and then the landscape,
there you go, I think that’s quite telling!” “And there you go! – It’s
so beautiful! – I’m not going to add to it
– No, it’s already heavy enough! Great, come on!” “I really felt the need to
be more in the city and to be in the countryside. And so the question arose: how do
I live in the countryside? And agriculture came quite easily because I
’m a foodie and I like to eat good things. And so knowing that
I can produce them now, there you go…” Their production is 100% organic. They therefore chose varieties adapted to
the terrain and climate of Rosans. “So here we are in Haute-Provence,
so it’s very hot during the day but the temperatures drop a lot at night
because we’re at altitude. And everything that is chili peppers – peppers, it’s the same species, it
needs a lot of heat to grow. And we tried with Anne, we must have tried about
ten different varieties of chili peppers – peppers, and there’s no comparison, it’s
the only one that really works well here.” The next morning, we find Samuel
behind his stall at the Rosans market. “You give me these zucchini
– Do you want everything?” Every Sunday, it’s the meeting place for some local producers and
inhabitants of the surrounding villages. “We arrived, we didn’t know anyone,
and very quickly we were very well integrated into the village, I think also because we
were motivated to do this market. The idea yes was to try to continue to
bring life back to the village.” This morning, Samuel is offering something new
: homemade organic ketchup, prepared with his tomatoes and Basque peppers. “We’re seeing more and more peasant bakers
, peasant brewers, peasant soap makers, peasant
herbalists. And since we produce spices and condiments, we’ve chosen
to call ourselves peasant grocers.” “I’ve heard about your ketchup! We’re going to try one!
-We make 3 different kinds of ketchup, with Basque pepper and coriander, with herbes
de Provence, if you want to smell it. Or we have some with lavender flowers, which are these ones.
-Pretty neutral! Herbs de Provence! Yeah.” Marcel and Coralie have a
guesthouse in the heart of the village. “Lemon, don’t forget the
lemon for breakfast!” For this couple Franco-Dutch, the
weekly menus are imagined here. “We do it according to the stalls.
Here I think we’re going to make a little ratatouille with tomatoes, zucchini, we
pretend you’re having friends over! » There is a specialty that Marcel and Coralie
buy every week at the neighboring stall “Hello!
-How are you Marcel?
-How are you doing ?” Small doughnuts typical
of the Hautes-Alpes, tourtons. “Potatoes, mashed potatoes, leek whites, onions.
Goat: goat cheese. » “In the south-east of France, it’s a
product that you find a lot of, eh! » “And since the best tourtons
from the Hautes-Alpes come here, we make salads with them,
people love them!” » Marcel and Coralie’s guesthouse
directly overlooks the village square. This large residence was remodeled in the 16th
century. which is called here the castle of Rosans. Having arrived from the Netherlands
15 years ago, Marcel fell in love with this former property of
François de Bonne, a close friend of Henri IV. “This is the most beautiful part of this building,
this portal!” It dates from 1611 and at the top we see the family crest of François de
Bonne! After a tour of France from all sides, I came across the building here in Rosans, completely
abandoned and empty, ready to do something. And finally a building that has been abandoned for 10 years
: even a Dutchman who settles there, people are happy! »
On the upper floors, 4 guest rooms are available. “This is the first room that we restored
about fifteen years ago: it was the easiest room to finish in order to
open the guest room project as quickly as possible. And I prefer to keep the old spirit. If we make it too luxurious, we ruin the charm of the
building, the spirit of the old village. ” In the staircase, a detail bears witness to
the history of Rosans and a neighboring village. “Someone said that this pillar
could come from the priory of St André de Rosans. The priory of St André is a priory which
dates from the Cluny period and Cluny is the 10th century. It’s very likely they took it
down there to make the castle look nice. » “Be careful, it’s hot, go on!” » Meanwhile, in the kitchen, Coralie and
her daughter are making their own jam. ” Perfect ! » They make it with blackcurrants
picked from a neighbor’s garden. “The jam jars!” » “I think it will give about 8-9 pots!”
With today’s harvest we will be able to last a whole year giving good jam
to our customers! We can put it in pots! “Not bad huh, perfect!”
-Very good! » We find Jean-François in
a street, just behind the castle. He joins other villagers in a
green space that he had the idea to create a year ago. “Here we go to a garden which is in
fact a collective garden. And then it’s also a space for expression for children and adults too! It’s really
a friendly place! » Installed on an old orchard
below the village, the garden takes shape week after week. “Are they well spaced out there?”
-If that’s not bad! The goal is to protect the dangerous place.
-Yes, that’s it! » With Philippe, a neighbor, they are
today installing a ramp to secure the staircase they have just
finished. “It’s a way of getting back to reality
, of having simple joys, simple pleasures in fact. Maybe this is
what we didn’t have time to do when we were kids and what we do now
! I think it’s something like that. »
In turn, Sophie, another resident of
the village, makes her contribution. “It’s really a place for sharing, it’s a place where you meet people
that you wouldn’t necessarily have the opportunity to meet in the village every day.
Well, that’s real emulation! » In another part of the garden, these
wicker-lined terraces are being developed. Samuel, the young farmer, is
creating a new one. He helps Thierry: a former teacher
who has developed a passion for basket weaving. “So I’m carrying some willow that I planted for
this one from local willow that people used for their baskets. It was used
for medieval gardens and it is made with fresh wicker which takes root, which takes root
so after all the root system of the wicker will go into the earth and stabilize the soil. »
“Are we leaving from there?” -We start with a big yes and then we alternate.
-But now I’m changing sides, eh! » For Samuel, learning
this braiding technique is another way to
connect with the people of Rosans. “Last time Thierry was doing
the first one, and I came to help out and was looking for something to do. We
ended up doing it all day together and it was great! It’s
a great skill and…I like it! » “It’s nice to do things together,
to pass on the little we know, and also to change their perspective
on how things are done! » “There you go, welcome!” » “What I like is being able to
have spaces where we take the time to do things that are
both beautiful and pleasant and that also have meaning. Because
there is also meaning behind it. » “So, shall we have a bite to eat? » For the Rosannais, conviviality
is the driving force behind all their projects. And the arrival of new residents
often allows the birth of original ideas to revitalize the village. In the evening, all the inhabitants meet
at the foot of the square tower of Rosans. It was Anne, the farmer, who came up with the
evening’s programme: an open-air film club. “I also wanted to be able to
bring a little more culture which is often unfortunately a
bit of a weak point when you arrive here! And here in the countryside, if I
want something, I have to create it. All you need is a little
movement and things will move forward! » “It has become our monthly
local cinema meeting, it’s really nice, it’s life, it’s the youth
that pushes us forward!” ” The idea of a shared dinner spontaneously arose from the cinema session, which is another charm of these evenings. “It allows us to see
people we never see and new faces too!” There are some
that we don’t know after all! » “It’s really nice
because we get together beforehand, we talk, we chat, we think about something else, we have a drink and it’s nice. It’s as
important as the projection that follows! » It is 8:30 p.m.: the sun has just set. “Hello everyone, welcome to
Ciné Rosans! And here we resume with a screening of The Grocer’s Son, a
film I think everyone knows, which was shot in Rosans. I
wish you a good screening! THANKS ! » About sixty km further south
is the Plateau d’Albion. This is where a family lives, settled in the
lavender capital: the village of Ferrassières. This unique landscape was designed by
generations of farmers. Since the 19th century, they have been growing the flower that
made Provence famous here. In this vast area, there are
only 7 municipalities. Small villages where the inhabitants have become accustomed to supporting each other. At the exit of the village, here is the emblem of Ferrassières: the medieval castle of
Gabelle and its agricultural estate. Today, the villagers are
invited to an important event. Margherite Blanc, owner of the premises for
over 50 years, is reviving the old bread oven. “Mmh my mouth is watering
just smelling and looking at it!” » For this first batch, she
called on her friend Emmanuel, a baker in a neighboring village. “So this is your signature?”
-There, that’s the cut, that’s what will allow the bread to develop well. » « The first day I arrived at the Château de la
Gabelle, when I saw this oven it was love at first sight and I said to myself one day
I want to see it working I would like not to leave this place without having seen this oven
working. It’s a very, very important day! ” ” Wow ! He is handsome! It sings well! » “It’s super important to immortalize
this! I think that it will please my grandmother to have a souvenir and then even
for all of us it is still very moving, well I am very moved to see the bread come out
like that! And then one day I will show my children I will tell them look, the first time we
made bread in the oven, there you go! » “We’re sending the bread!” » To avoid burning their hands, the guests
pass the bread around as quickly as possible. “Come on now, let’s taste it!” For a first attempt it’s superb!
-It’s still hot, it crushes the crumb! » “It’s perfect, it’s the best
bread I’ve ever tasted!” -You are lenient!
-No, because it has a very particular taste. » “It’s been a long time since we’ve
eaten bread like this!” » “I’m from Ferrassières and I would like to
come here to get my bread. If it worked, I would come here of course!” » It’s time for the last batch. “Emmanuel, can I try the last one?”
-If you want! -Do you allow it?
-So you go right underneath and then a little sharp blow!
-Attention ! Watch out behind. » « I always thought about that
moment, that moment has arrived, it is for me at the same time the signal
of my retirement and the handing over to my children and grandchildren
of this building, this castle. » Margherite, who has always lived in Ferrassières, devoted 30 years of her life to
restoring the Château de la Gabelle. In the weapons rooms, at the back of
the courtyard and in the old dovecote, she has set up bedrooms and a guest table. The lord’s apartments
still need to be rebuilt. “For me it was impossible to let
this building disappear because it was ready to disappear at that moment. I told myself
that it was not only a family heritage but a heritage that belongs to
everyone. And so I set about restoring it body and soul . This building is my guts, that’s
it, I’m part of this building…” At the end of the day, Margherite leaves with her family to
hand-pick bouquets of lavender. This is the other activity of the Château
de la Gabelle: 50 hectares of land covered with the blue flower of Provence. “Lavender is a plant that grows
spontaneously here and you can hardly grow anything else. So this is
really the vital production of the plateau! ” Margherite’s sons
manage this estate. “We’ll start there!” You
each take a row, those that are too short
you do not cut. Come on ! » Inès is one of Margherite’s granddaughters. This is the first time she has cut
the lavender with a sickle. “Show me how you cut?” Yeah, there
you go. What you need to do: you need to push: you take your handle, or like this
or like that, and you push behind! And there, once your hand is behind, you definitely won’t
be able to cut yourself. Hop! And you give a circular blow lying down with your right hand and your
left hand, like this! Dry ! And it comes by itself. » “It was my mother who taught me how to cut with a
sickle, I started when I was 10-12 years old! And then yes, I pass it on to my niece,
to my nephews, I teach them what my mother taught me! So. It’s the transmission
of knowledge from generation to generation! » “Catch him!” That’s good, you’re skillful, that’s fine
! Whoever cuts the most gets an aperitif! » “We are a family, we get together, we chat,
we tease each other, we joke, so it’s a whole family dynamic! » At 25, Inès finished her business studies. She takes over from her grandmother at
La Gabelle, her holiday castle. “It’s both a transmission of a
family heritage, of family know-how, but it’s also continuing this family project! Even, whether it
is in the lavender fields, whether it is at the castle, finally, for me it is the history of my
family and it is important for me to put my stone to the building and I hope that
it will continue to be passed on later. » “We’re going to count!” There are 300 bouquets! Well,
that’s not bad for tonight! » The next day, Margherite takes her
granddaughter across the Albion plateau. She wants to introduce him to her favorite artisans and producers for the
castle’s table d’hôtes. “We are on a plateau that is a bit deserted
and it is very important to work in a network! It is very important to maintain a rural fabric
by making each other work! » “So there you see, we have just left the Drôme
and we are entering the Alpes de Haute-Provence! » Margherite and Inès cross
the village of Revest-du-Bion. “I love this street in Revest!
-She’s pretty, isn’t she? This little street with the hollyhocks, you know the
hollyhocks that are at the Gabelle? -Yes yes !
-I came here to get the seeds!
-Ah OK ! » “You’ll see, we’re going up
to Contadour up there!” » The Contadour is a vast plateau which
peaks at more than 1,300 meters above sea level. “Here we are in the heart of Giono’s country!” He
wrote many novels about the region. » “Ah, you see Giono’s mill there on the left! -Oh yeah, okay, yes, yes.
-Did you see? » This mill belonged to the writer
Jean Giono at the beginning of the 20th century. Inès shares her love of the country
with her grandmother. Before deciding to settle on this
plateau, she studied in London and Madrid. “For me there is nothing incongruous in saying to oneself
: at 25 I am going to settle in a village, in fact it is a question of choice.
We see more and more young people who, in fact, after their studies leave the cities and
come back to settle down to do crafts, to relaunch small activities
in villages and which are gradually being repopulated and, there you go, I
am happy to have made this choice! » The two women arrive in Sault,
the first village on their tour. Perched at an altitude of 700 m, it is
the largest on the Albion plateau. “From a distance, it looks like you’re arriving at
a medieval fortress! Because we can clearly see that it was a fortified village! » « From the road we have a rather impressive view
of this rock on which Sault was built! » Margherite and Inès enter the heart of the village which has retained many
vestiges of its medieval past. “There we’re going to go under a little soustet! It is
a passage that allowed communication from one street to another where horses could pass.
Here we can clearly see what a soustet is! -Plus you can see the
beams clearly, and it’s pretty too. » They go to the place of their first meeting
: at the most famous nougat maker on the plateau. “I wanted to show you this
beautiful and delicious pastry there! » Margherite has known Maison
Boyer forever. Calissons de Sault, Provençal nougat: here, you will find specialties
made exclusively with local ingredients. “Oh, come on! Look at the macarons!
-They’re all hot. -Good morning ! we don’t touch, we watch then!
-There you go » Today, Inès is going to discover the secrets of making
the Provençal macaron “We push we cut, we push we cut. » Pascal Lomprez, the pastry chef, is the custodian of this
original recipe created in 1887. “It’s the recipe for
old-fashioned macarons, let’s say, which has nothing to do with the famous macarons that we
know in Paris where we have a filling. These are really macarons for
the pleasure of tasting almonds! » “It’s my childhood that comes back, it’s my mom, my dad especially who did a lot of
cooking and baking, it’s emotion! » « I think of those people who tried to
find a recipe that could please already because well before, the small village pastry chef
, we made our neighbors happy, and to be able to make people enjoy but on a
larger scale today and always with the same traditional side, it’s a source of pride! »
After 10 minutes in the oven, Pascal checks the cooking of his macaroons. “When you look, if I put my
finger in, you see it’s still quite soft, but it’s mainly the coloring that
allows me to tell that they’re cooked because if I leave them too long
afterwards they’ll be too dry. » “It’s best to eat them
while they’re still hot! So ! -THANKS !
-Oh that smell! -Already the smell, we can really smell the bitter almond!
Plus they’re still warm! So be careful, you might even get burned. But we have
the advantage of having this crust around and this softness inside which is really
pleasant and particular to this macaron! » “It’s delicious, excellent! » “Could we make macaroons
in the bread oven, Grandma? -Oh, okay! You come and make us
macaroons in the bread oven! Come on ! We’ll make an appointment and then
we’ll do our best! » Margherite and Inès leave the
Sault plain to meet the almond supplier for the Boyer pastry shop. “You’ll see there, I love it!” Look,
you have Mont Ventoux, so beautiful! -The Ventoux from here is impressive!
-Did you see? » The two women arrive at the edge of Drôme. This is where Hervé Lauzier
grows his Provençal almonds. A passion shared by Margherite who knows the cultivation of this
traditional fruit of the region well. “ Oh Margherite!
-Hey hello -how are you?
-Have you come to see how things are going?
-Well yes, the little girl and I came to see. So, have you started harvesting?
-Yes, this year we are a little early. ” ” Oh ! Impressive ! Amazing !
-I’ll show you, we’re going to go around the orchard! The few varieties
! We’ll start with the mandalas that are here! As they are small and
very round, it is mainly for nougat and biscuits! We’re going to taste it because the good
Lord did things well: he said since the shells are hard there must be
stones to make the almond trees grow! » 11.44.06 « This variety is incredible!
-It’s really good! -It’s fruity, it has a tiny
hint of acidity at the end of the mouth and it ‘s not bad, it’s very crunchy!
– does it go well with nougat and honey? -So ! I’ve been growing them for 30 years, and
I’ve been eating them for 30 years! » “Historically, every family
had a small almond orchard because it was the
family’s protein reserve. » Hervé has reconnected with this culture, which
disappeared in the middle of the 20th century. He converted his 25 hectares of
land to plant almond trees. “We have a philosophy: we put 250 to 300
trees per hectare, we give them space, we give them daylight. The advantage
is that we also have the Mistral, which prevents mushrooms from developing, and it ventilates everything. So
! Before there was corn and now there are almond trees and when they are in bloom
in spring I am happy! Plus I let the dandelions grow, they’re yellow and white,
they’re beautiful and I’m happy! » A little further on, Hervé
shows them the laurannes: it is one of the almonds used in
the making of macaroons. “This one is almost my favorite!”
She has a sweetness that’s surprising! -This one is sweeter!
-I find the taste of almonds that we had in our old orchard,
very fragrant, very good! Hmmm… » Margherite grew almonds when she
arrived in Gabelle in the early 1960s. Today’s visit brings back
memories of her youth. “I’m delighted, I’m… I don’t know
how to tell you how I feel. That’s very strong! Finding myself
in the almond trees is wonderful. » « What moves me is to see my grandmother so
happy, so moved, so happy, that’s it! For me it’s a beautiful moment that I just
shared with my grandmother so I’m delighted. » « Shall we continue the tour then?!
-We continue the tour!
-Come on ! » Margherite and Inès are now
expected in this village, located on the foothills of the Albion plateau. “Now we arrive at Banon! It is
a very pretty little hilltop village, you can see the church which dominates
old Banon. » « The village is famous
for its goat cheese, which is folded into small
chestnut leaves, but today that’s not what I’m going to
introduce to Inès, it’s something else. » They have an appointment with one
of the best craftsmen in Banon. On the way, they pass
a village institution. “I’m going to show you a very original bookstore,
all our guests come to Bleuet!” Oh yes I send them to Bleuet because it is very beautiful!
-For summer reading?
-So ! » Le Bleuet is the
most famous bookstore in Provence. And it’s located right across from Melchio’s house. “So I’m going to take you to someone
I like. I especially like what he does! ” At the Melchio’s, we are
artisan charcutiers from father to son. “Stop, it’s here!”
-The twig Melchio?
-Yes ! come on, go home! ” ” Good morning ! This is my granddaughter Inès!
-Delighted ! -So he makes it himself, you see,
that’s what I like, it’s homemade, everything is homemade, he has several
varieties of small twigs. » « So these little sausages
were started by my parents about 30 years ago. Actually my parents were
drying chipolatas and forgot about them completely. And a customer they knew
well said: give me the sausages hanging behind. And he came back a few days
later and said, great, it was really good! » “So it’s a happy mistake then? -Quite
! Like many things! X2 It’s pure pork in
natural lamb casing, I should point out, it’s semi-dry, and you eat it in small
pieces as an aperitif or to nibble on like that. » What makes these sausages unique are the
Provençal flavors of the herbs that perfume them. “I would like to taste some savory.
-Of course. I took the small tray. Go ahead Thanks!
-So you will see it is very fragrant, savory is
one of the most fragrant twigs! -Besides, in Provençal we call it
donkey pepper! Excellent, I love it! It’s true that we can really feel the
little peppery side behind it. And the little hint of garlic is so
good! It’s a success, hmm! » « Savory, for me, is a bit like
a Proust madeleine because my grandmother makes her goat cheese, she puts it
fresh in savory, so the taste of savory brings back a lot of things
: is it my childhood, is it summer? So, it’s summer at my grandmother’s! That’s it
! For me it’s here, savory is here! » « Thanks, it’s a pleasure!
-Have a good end of season! Bye ! » To end their tour, Margherite and
Inès head towards a final village, at the gateway to the Albion plateau. “Here we arrive at Montbrun-les-Bains now,
very recognizable by its castle, which is in ruins, up there, at the top of the village. It was
destroyed in 1560 and in the same year there was the castle of Gabelle which was destroyed
by a fire and the lord of Montbrun, as he no longer had the right to rebuild
this castle, came to rebuild the castle of Gabelle in Ferrassières to
shelter his armed men there. » From the road, the view of the village and its
unique architecture is impressive. “The houses were used as ramparts at the time
! So these are all the houses that are built on the rock! ” At the top of the village, they reach
a remarkable monument of Montbrun. “This small street leads to the Belfry Square, which is also called Clock Square because there is
a clock at the top of the belfry, and this gate is one of the last 4
gates of the remaining fortifications. » A little further on, it is at the market that
Margherite and Inès will meet the last producer of their tour: a farmer
from Montbrun, specializing in tomatoes. ” Good morning ! Hello, hello! Cédrik Belle offers around ten
different varieties of tomatoes. “Yes, we’ll find out!” There ! » For years he has been part
of Margherite’s network. “So here we have coustouloute di genovese.
-Yes ! -It’s a tomato that we like because
it’s also good and in presentation we make slices like this
-There you go and it makes a flower on the plate, it’s magnificent!
-So ! This is a Russian tomato called Grushovska which is of no interest to
the industry at all because it has very thin skin and it doesn’t transport well,
but that’s not our criteria ! Above all, it must be good.
-And there you go, yes yes! I like this one. » «I like to choose my producers
based on their cultivation method, so before buying I ask them questions,
and above all they have to be either organic or sustainable! Otherwise, here it is…
These are my 2 selection criteria! » « I love going to the markets
just for the pleasure of tasting, of meeting people… it’s okay, my dear!! nothing
but the pleasure of meeting people, of tasting what they do, of appreciating,
when they work well, of appreciating what they do. That’s why I have
my little favorite stands! » “Ah, but I want to taste the bread!”
-There are 4 seeds, walnut, almond, pumpkin seed, sunflower and
turmeric which gives it this color. -Okay, I’ve cracked, I’ll
have a morning loaf! -Which ?
-The biggest, oh yes, we are greedy
! Thank you, have a nice day! » At the end of the market, Inès and Margherite
stop at the Café des Tilleuls. It is the meeting place for
all the local residents. “It was really nice to actually meet
all these people who also help us to keep this castle alive! Because if they were
n’t there, we wouldn’t necessarily have the same products to offer. So in a way they
also help us to keep this heritage alive! “So girls!
-A little help there? Are you overwhelmed? » Dominique de Bortoli is a
key figure in Montbrun. “Are you doing well ?
-Yes, and how are you?
-And you, my dear, are you well? » His café is considered the
second tourist office in the village. “I’ve lived here for 35 years, so I know
a bit of everyone and a lot of things, and it’s true that I’m asked for a lot of
information, and since I’m able to provide it,
I think it should be said. » A great connoisseur of the surrounding area,
Dominique offers Inès a discovery of the treasures of his region on a motorcycle. “So we leave Montbrun behind
us and head towards the Château d’Aulan, which is 7km from here, where
we will cross the Aulan gorges! You ‘ll enjoy yourself, you’ll see.
-Okay great, let’s go! » “There you go, you’ve just covered 2000
years of history, my dear! » Dominique and Inès take the road, classified as
remarkable, which crosses the Gorges d’Aulan. It was developed at the end of the
19th century. on the site of old roads linking the Plateau d’Albion to the Baronnies. “So you see the crease in the
rocks? It’s huge! It’s huge! -It’s beautiful !
-It’s abstract, I say they are real living paintings
! It feels like you’re in a canyon, you know, deep in Nevada!
-It’s true ! » “About 185 million years ago
there was an ocean: here we are under the ocean of that time! » “I’m coming closer so you can
look down at the Toulourenc!” -We can see that it’s summer anyway,
because usually there’s more water! » A little further on, the silhouette
of the architectural jewel of the gorges emerges. “Look at the castle!” We can
see it clearly there, it’s beautiful! » At the foot of the castle lies the tiny village
of Aulan, made up of just a few houses. ” Here I present to you one of the smallest communes
in Drôme with 11 inhabitants in the summer, 5 in the winter ! A town hall, look at “town hall” for me, it’s
not very pretty. I swear on election days, it’s done in 5 minutes! And all the rest of the
time they can have a bite to eat, you know! » « Aulan Castle is located at the exit
of the gorges, on the rocky peak and it of course watched over the entrance to the gorges,
it was a strategic point to control the comings and goings of everyone and
of course potential invaders! » This castle, founded in the 12th century, has belonged
to the same family for almost 400 years. “Ah, it’s open!” Come on, let’s be
curious, come on! With any luck… » « Ah look. As long as you have the flag, like that at the end of the mast, it shows
the owner is present on the premises! » “This is the first time I’ve set foot
in the castle courtyard! It’s beautiful. From the outside, in fact, you can see that it has been
well restored, but it’s true that I didn’t expect it to be so beautiful
! This is a very beautiful residential castle here! » « Look at this! That’s beautiful!
-Provence dons its blue summer coat! It smells good.
-Yes, it smells good. And we see that clearly when we go for a
motorcycle ride, you see, our eyes, all our senses are awakened!
-It’s true that we don’t have that in the car! » They now cross another town,
in a straight line: the village of Séderon.
“ Here is Séderon, you see these narrow little streets.
-Ah yes, it’s narrow! -That’s the charm of this village! I say hello
to my baker friend! That’s my friend! » Dominique and Inès begin
the final ascent of their route. They reach the summit
of the Bergiès mountain, in the Baronnies massif with
its exceptional 360° panorama. “That’s what I wanted to show you!”
Look at this landscape! The view is absolutely breathtaking, starting with
the Alps on this northern side and from there we have our giant of Provence, Ventoux! ”
-That’s very impressive! Plus there is a beautiful light there, it makes
a blue, it’s magnificent! -Here on this side you have the
whole view of the Baronnies and at the very back over there you have the Nyonsais.
-In fact, we always have things to discover, even at home! Even in very remote corners where
you have the impression that there is no one left, in fact there are lots of beautiful things to see and
above all I realize that we have a very rich history and heritage in the area! And that’s
a little pride! We could spend the day there! »
3 Comments
Marguerite est une femme formidable ! Tout comme toutes les autres personnes présentées dans ce magnifique documentaire ! Tant d'amour et d'authenticité. Cela me donne envie de tout plaquer pour aller cueillir des fleurs de tilleul, cultiver des légumes, restaurer une vieille bâtisse et accueillir des hôtes.
si plutot qu'une musique américaine vous aviez choisi une vraie musique du midi !
A few years ago I bought a Birkin bag and take it with me everywhere I go. I worry about it getting stolen or damaged, so I'm worried when I go out. I was tired of this mental burden, so I bought the kisluxs bag.