
So, back in November/December I rode the Shimanami Kaido, twice, as the start and end of my ride around Shikoku. Which was all super amazing btw, but instead of just adding to the pile of usual Shimanami ride report posts that make it probably the most well-documented bike tour on this subreddit, I thought I would instead cover what was the hardest-to-plan part of my trip that I couldn't easily find many answers for.
How does one get to the Shimanami Kaido if you bring your bike from overseas?
It's very easy if you are renting: Just get to Onomichi or Imabari. It's bicycle tourism central here! But if you are bringing your bike from home, you have to think logistics. How do you fly a bike to Japan? How to you get your bike from the airport to your starting point? What even is the starting point? Never fear, for I suffered through these conundrums and I have answers to pass on!
Logistics Step 1: Bike on a plane
The nearest airport to the Shimanami Kaido is either Hiroshima or Matsuyama. Neither airport is good, logistically; Hiroshima's airport might as well be Montana, it's not connected to ANYTHING, not even a train. So since connecting flights seemed pointless, I opted for non-stop to Tokyo. I flew Seattle to Haneda on ANA, packing my bike in a Bike Box Alan. It cost ZERO additional dollars to check this as luggage! And I lucked out because my case plus bike was more than the 50 lbs that US airlines usually start to charge for, but was under the 23kg limit that Japanese airlines set. Thank you, metric system!
Logistics Step 2: Bike on a train
Okay so I'm in Tokyo, how do I get closer to Onomichi? The obvious answer is the same as if I was renting: Take the Shinkansen. So I take the Keikyu Airport line to Shinagawa station. Can you take a bike case on the Keikyu Line? Yes. It costs zero additional dollars to bring a bike. 20 minute train ride.
Logistics Step 3: Bike on another train
At Shinagawa, transfer from the Keikyu to the Shinkansen. Can you take a bike on the Shinkansen? Yes! Here's mine in the Green Car! I had no less than three station attendants measure my box at the ticket gate and confirm it was Shinkansen-approved. You have to get one of the four seats at the rear of each car that have a designated oversized luggage area behind them, so book in advance! It costs zero additional dollars to bring a bike onboard like this, and in fact buying my seat in advance thru the app was much cheaper than buying it at the station.
Now, we're going to Onomichi like all the bike renter people do, right? No! Shin-Onomichi is 2 miles from where all the renters are getting their bikes and starting, and there is NOTHING near the station to use as a base to store your stuff. But one station before that, Fukuyama? Now we're talking! Hotels surround this station (and yes, they'll gladly hold onto a big bike box and suitcase for 2 weeks while I ride), and it gets Nozomi service from Shinagawa so there's no transfers required. 3 hour 20 minute ride from Shinagawa. The area around Fukuyama station is also very pretty.
Logistics Step 4: Bike the Shiomachi Kaido to the Shimanami Kaido
Yes, I'm sorry, as nice as Fukuyama is, unfortunately it has left me about 10-15 miles from the start of the Shimanami Kaido. So how do I get there? Check it out, there's a whole 'nother Kaido that goes to the Kaido: The Shiomachi Kaido! There is perplexingly little info online about this route but it is almost as well marked as the Shiomachi. The logistical convenience of it's start can't be beat, there's even a bike reassembly area for Shinkansen riders! And here's a handy pdf map showing how to get to the Shimanami Kaido. It is very scenic, with the highlight being the 1000-year-old fishing village of Tomonoura and it's stone lighthouse. And at the end, there's a small ferry you summon with a push of a dockside button (unless it's already there, like it was in my case unfortunately)
NOTE: There is a uniquely Japanese option to bypass all this "hassle" and start in Onomichi like the normal bike renters do: get luggage service from your airport of choice to your Onomichi/Imabari hotel of choice. I think this is almost mandatory now if you fly into Narita, actually. But this costs money to transport your stuff, whereas the additional cost to transport my bike with me for the whole round trip was $0. And your bike may not arrive at the same time you do.
Hope this helps any future Shimanami Kaido riders who want to bring their own bikes!
by AgaveGato