So have you not been to Waterford? Why? This is simply one of the most gorgeous cities that you could visit in Ireland.
A lot of work goes into these videos as you can well see! You can now buy me a pint as a means of appreciation for my work on Naked Ireland, no obligation, obviously – only if you can afford it… I appreciate it. Cheers.
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Waterford City is at the head of Waterford harbour, in the county town of County Waterford. This port has been one of Ireland’s most important ports for over 1000 years.
The Vikings settled in Waterford in 853, but were sent packing again by the Irish by 902 only to return in 914 when they established Ireland’s first city.
But, the ownership was to change again in 1170 when the deposed king of Leinster Dairmait MacMurrough teamed up with the Norman, Richard de Clare (otherwise known as Strongbow) and after severe resistance, eventually took the city. King Henry II of England was to arrive soon after declaring the city (along with Dublin) a royal city.
An old stone building tucked away down Conduit Lane was a real surprise. This was a Dominican Friary founded in 1236 known as Blackfriars Abbey, owned by Waterford City Council and earmarked for renovation. The plan is to turn this into a functioning civic space and to further enhance this medieval part of the city. Geoffrey of Waterford was a French translater. While he obviously lived here on and off, he based himself mostly in Paris, such was the international profile of clerical scolars in Ireland at the time. He translated latin texts into French.
We visit a boardwalk area called William Vincent Wallace Plaza, after a locally born opera composer, the the bandstand here is a fitting tribute, and find an impressive sculpture, depicting ships sails in an albeit more abstract form. The work is by the artist Liam Lavery.This area of Custom House Quay was developed in 2000 as part of the citys millenium celebrations. A thousand years is a nobel birthday for any city.
The next building we view is called Reginald’s Tower, named after one of the city’s Viking rulers. Having said that it was built by the Anglo-Normans, although replacing an earlier Viking fortification. It’s therefore not quite 1000 years old, but was probably constructed between 1253 and 1280, after Prince John of England landed here in 1185 and started a grand rebuilding programme. However, this is the oldest civic building in Ireland and one of Ireland’s first fortifications to use mortar in its construction. It now houses museum, but in the past it has functioned as a mint, a prison and a military storehouse. And for the more romantic people out there, the tower, was also the location of the wedding of the Knight Strongbow (Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembrook) and Aoife (the daughter of Dermot MacMurrough, King of Leinster) – an example of the alliances that were struck by the native Irish and Anglo Normans. In many cases the anglo-normans settled into life in Ireland and are reputed to have become ‘more Irish than the Irish’ and we have many French sounding surnames in Ireland today that have their origin in the Anglo-Norman invasion.
Next we visit a replica of an actual 40 ft Viking longboat. Amazingly this boat was built by a group of enthusiasts from Waterford, a cabinet maker, joiner, carpenter, plumber, architect, welder, electrician, even a coast guard. There’s a large red sail, but it’s obviously lowered today due to the weather.
Its name as you can see is vadrafjordr, the Viking name for Waterford.
It’s apparently modelled on a famous Viking Longboat found in Denmark. It’s a remarkable piece of craftsmanship, but an amazing social project too, I think you’ll agree.
We’ve already found a Dominican Friary on our walk, we now encounter a Franciscan Friary. This place was founded in 1240 by Sir Hugh Purcell who had connections with the guy I’ve just been talking about, the Knight Strongbow. The establishment of this friary was again, obviously during the city’s Anglo-Norman period. We’re right in the heart of Waterford’s Anglo- Norse triangle here, so the ground on which this place is sited would have been prominent real estate in its day, leading us to believe that this friarly was possibly founded on behalf of King Henry III. By 1616 this place had become an asylum for the poor and was active as a hospital until the 19th Century.
This city remained catholic after the reformation as part of the confederation of Kilkenney, until our old friend Oliver Cromwell brought the entire country under English rule, with Waterford finally succumbing after 2 seiges in 1650. Subsequently in 1690, after the battle of the Boyne, a Jacobite army in the city was forced to surrender. The 18th Century was then a period of prosperity, hence the cities beautiful Georgian architecture.
6 Comments
Now that's a beautiful City! The Viking Long Ship replica was a work of art! How striking it is with all the presentations you bring of Irish urban life, the neatness and pride stands out. The mural projects of Ireland are incredible! My Darling Wife's uncle, her Mum's twin brother, is featured in a large wall mural in Dundalk! Paul Kavanagh, the renowned Irish photographer. How History is played out always amazes me! It was French King's, ruling England, who's Viking ancestors were the Norman's of Irish fame!! For a great read that's outstanding in its field, the book " Children of Ash and Elm". A History of the Vikings. Cheers Greg!! I absolutely love Irish Georgian architecture!!!
I imagine Waterford is much better now its bypassed. Last time I was there it hadn’t been built. My vivid memory of Waterford was a street performer who was quite scary, not just to me either, he was freaking kids out who he saw 🤨. To be honest I didn’t care for Waterford, maybe its too big for me, Wexford more my size. Perhaps today I would like it more. I still have a film I shot of the place somewhere driving through it back in the traffic days, too rough for YouTube (maybe). Did you go on a Sunday? We did, parking was nice and easy too, a car park on the quay.
Seeing Dunnes Store I do miss them, I was definitely a Dunnes Store shopper 100% when I lived in Ireland 😁. I remember Reginald’s tower, though didn’t know its name until you told me. Good video as always Greg. I’m still waiting for your one on Kenmare.
Great film👍
Nice 👍
March 2024 we had the privilege of visiting Waterford. There is a pub right behind Reginalds tower called The Reg. A super friendly bar man and great fish n chips. The murals were amazing.
In the 1990s I stayed at a friend’s family home/farm near Bunmahon. We chose Dungarvan over Waterford for a day’s meander before heading to the Aran Islands for the next leg of the trip. Looks like a lovely city to explore. I do cherish my Waterford crystal.