Cutting the steerer tube on your bike is a relatively simple job, but one where there is no room for error. Why might you need to do this? After adjusting the position and height of your handlebars, you might notice a stack of spacers above your stem. This happens because new bikes typically come with extra-long steerer tubes and plenty of spacers to allow for easy adjustments without buying additional components.
However, once you have your position right, you could end up with something that only looks cool but’s potentially dangerous in the event of a crash. The solution? Cut it off!
Hit play and learn how to do it right! 🚴♂️
00:00 How do you cut a steerer tube?
00:39 The tools you need for cutting a steerer tube
01:23 Marking where to cut the steerer tube
02:09 Removing the handlebars and fork
02:57 Where to cut a steerer tube?
03:48 What type of hacksaw or blade do you need to use?
04:08 Adjusting the compression plug or star nut
04:43 How to put the bicycle on the bike stand—hack 😎
05:59 Smoothing the edges & reinstalling the compression plug
06:32 Reassembling the bike
07:16 Final bike safety checks 👀
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Have you ever trimmed a bike’s steerer tube? How did it go? 🚴♂️
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25 Comments
Have you ever trimmed a bike’s steerer tube? How did it go? 🚴♂️
This is a bike shop one for me. $35. Done.
Alex, you are excellent at your job and such a cool person. The world is so much better for you in it. Happy new year to you and yours.
It should be pointed out that this procedure is valid only for Canyon 1 1/4"steerers fitted with that small bung (not a traditional compression plug). In this case the bike does not have a reinforcement for the steerer where the stem clamps, as the bung sits below and it's designed for the top cap to compress the bearings only. Other Canyon models would also have a reinforcement ring to support the stem clamping force. All other bikes with 1 1/8" steerers will have a traditional compression plug to both support the stem clamping force and bolt the top cap. In this case when you measure the fork you need to also account for the 2mm lip of the compression plug that overlaps the steerer tube.
Good luck selling that bike now, with short length steer tube you now have a higher chance of not re selling that bike , comfort is everything , we are passed the times of slam your stem ..👀🤦🤷
Where’s the final retro restored steel Italian bike video 👀
Check with the manufacturer first. Some require that you use 3-5mm spacer above the stem.
Another thing to be aware of, is what type of compression plug/top cap arrangement one has. I just did this job a few days ago. Took 3mm off below where stem sits. But my compression plug arrangement has a 2 to 2.5mm lip which sits on top of the steerer tube to stop compression plug falling into the frame. So now thats reduced the gap from 3mm to less than 1mm. So I should have cut 5mm off instead of 3mm to account for this. Still seems to tighten down alright, but only just!
A steerer tube cutting guide is an unnecessary luxury. All I do is mark where to cut, then make a shallow hacksaw cut all the way around the tube, then keep repeating until I've cut right through.
Dangerous in case you fall….how?
My favourite trick with doing this is to put an extra spacer under my stem before I mark it, only a small one, then use the stem to mark to line as per the video. This means that when I come to cut the tube with my small margin of error in there, it's a flat line, rather than having to add a few mm to the line from the stem as per the vid. I just find it easier to get it nice & neat this way.
#askgcntech Hello. I am replacing the bottom bracket on my Mongoose Envoy cargo bike. The information is CH52-73, 131.5L, BC 1.37 x 24T. I have not found an exact replacement online yet. Is a little variation possible such as getting a bottom bracket that is 127.5L or 140L? How much variation is OK?
#askgntech — I was checking my chain for wear today and wondered the following. If we made an assumption that a WT pro uses the same equipment and same maintenance as I do, would the WT pro wear out a chain in less kilometres ridden, on average? Full discloser: I am an average cyclist with above average equipment.
Better be pretty damn sure your bike position is correct.
Please take your bike to your local shop to let their professional team take care if this for you! Its too easy to mess this up. A lot of helpful tips weren't said in this video that is only gained with a lot of experience. Pay the $50-100 in labor instead of the $500 for a new fork. Support your local bike shop.
Slamming stems and cutting the steerer below flush with the top of the stem clamp is always a bad idea. As you age, you can't do the head down, bum up attitude any more, and need a bit of verticality at the front end. Good forks are £250 and up (£500 and up for suspension forks) so if you get this wrong, you will be calling yourself an idiot for a long time. Or be called an idiot by the bike's owner.
Where's Manon these days? Is she off on maternity for a coupe of years?
yeah, this is an LBS thing for me. no thank you.
Always leave extra steerer. Ride for 6 months and slowly lower as you get in better shape.
Or just go to a good traditional bike shop. Emsworth Cycles (Hants) is mine!
This blows me away that someone (GCN) can’t give a clearer explanation on this. 🤦♂️
I never deal with hack saws.
Carbon steerer: Cheap tile wet saw cuts easily and avoids dust issues. The cuts are also clean everytime.
Aluminum and Steel: Tubing cutter that spins round and round makes a very clean cut, and a little filing to soften the outside and debur the inside.
And if you had to remove spacers from below the stem, oh boy, with headset cable routing, it would be more involving.
Awesome background music!!
I would never cut even or below the top of the clamping force of the stem. The forces between the stem flexing and clamping of the stem are a lot. Having a little bit of space buys a lot of safety. This does depend on the design of the stem and fork. I have always kept a 5mm spacer on top for safety.