Ollie and Alex are back to answer your burning tech/cycling-related questions within the allotted time.
This time on the clinic, questions on indoor trainer and power pedal metrics, cassette change for efficient riding, heart rate, wheel spokes, and tyre sealant are answered!
00:00 Welcome to #askgcntech
00:18 Indoor trainer or power pedals? What is more accurate?
02:56 Do you need to change the cassette for better cycling efficiency?
04:46 Do you have to worry about road salt on the bike?
05:51 Is heart rate higher in warm conditions?
07:24 How to bed in new disc brakes on a bike?
08:41 Straight gauge spokes vs Double butted spokes
11:43 Can tyre sealant get solidified in winter?
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GCN1499
24 Comments
I like to climb but I’m, um, watt limited. I run 43/30 crank and 10-36 cassette. I do spin out on descents (🤷🏻♂️) but man does that setup work when the grade gets steep.
Regarding trainer vs power meter reading differences: Assioma Duo pedals and Elite Suito trainer here. The trainer outputs fine up to 150W but then under reads by an increasing margin as power increases, riding on TrainingPeaks Virtual you can see what the trainer thinks the resistance level is and also see what your output power is with a power meter, in my case a steady 260W on the power meter will often show up as 230W from the trainer. I've used my pedals as the power source on Zwift, Rouvy, and TrainingPeaks Virtual with the controllable set to the trainer; works great. Keep in mind if doing ERG workouts some apps will blindly send resistance to the trainer so a set power level will not translate accurately; I can confirm that both Zwift and TrainingPeaks Virtual will use power meters as reference and adjust the trainer's resistance to stay within the set power based on the feedback from the power meter, the last time I used Rouvy it did not have this feature so I only use it for virtual rides not ERG workouts.
Brake bedding info (Race car mechanic here): typically pads and rotors are pre bedded, but a new wheel on a bike with a brand new brake rotor on used pads isn’t a problem. The first couple hard braking zones will get the pads flattened to the rotor. Pads and rotors on race bikes are changed often enough to not be an issue. On race cars, we actually like to only change one thing at a time, new pads and new rotors can cause a lot of heat and actually overheat in the first session out
#askgcntech I have a commute home of 3miles (5km) it all slight uphill 1-2#ish on a brompton it takes me 17 mins to get home avg speed 11 mph. How much faster would a road bike or tri bike be? Basically how much do I suck? Thank you for all the motivation to keep riding my bike.
For the spokes, sounds like the tension is too low. Butted spokes are far stronger than straight spokes, since they bend easier.
I'm a large rider and solved the spoke problems' by riding on tandem wheels!
Talking about the gearing, I just went through this exercise and as I am in my 60s, realizing that trying to push a bigger ring is not my friend any longer, and like the questioner, I live in a very flat area. I looked at my SRAM app over my last 40 rides for 2 different bikes, a 1X, the other is a 2X. I have used my small ring on the 2x , 2 times for about 3 mins. I am going to convert that bike to a 1X, reduce from the 4835 to a 44 tooth and stick with my 10-33. The gear ratios will be better and I can slide into the 15, 14, 13 more comfortably, and still have 3 more cogs for when I am riding in a group to hang with the group. The 28 and 33 cogs will be my bailout cogs. Will also be changing the current 1X ring from a 46 to a 44 on my gravel as I am planning on some hillier gravel areas in the future and this should work out perfectly as I can run a 10-36 or 10-44 based on where I am at and still have a comfortable cadence.
#askgcntech on the topic of indoor trainers, I am curious to know how often you all would suggest cleaning/relubricating the chain if using an indoor trainer for the winter (3 – 4 times a week for an hour and a half at a time)?
As a heavier rider, I had problems with spokes breaking on my rear wheel only with my road bike, having not had this issue with a cheaper mountain bike, when I was heavier (130kg, now down to 110kg) – my local bike mechanic (during the time COVID made bike parts harder to get) ended up getting me on a larger wheel with more spokes (more like a gravel style wheel) and the problem has been solved. However, it just serves as a reminder that the recommended maximum weights for bikes should always be taken as being the total weight for the rider plus bottles, plus anything else they are carrying. it is not unusual to add 5-10kgs extra in weight with lights, bottles, water, food, camera, spares, pump,, tools, etc when going for longer rides
#askgcntech
Speaking of indoor training. Can you guys share how you set up multiple indoor trainers, with multiple sensors in the same room without having any connectivity issues.
That’s my biggest complaint with my wahoo kicker core (2years almost). I have disconnection issues like 1/3 of the time.
If you're concerned with accuracy, Nipple right heart sensor might be for you.
Strange gauge vs double butted spokes for the (cycling) “heavy” rider.
2 wheels were deep section expensive carbon wheels (factory made) with double butted DT Swiss spokes. 28 spokes on each and never out of true. The track/fixed wheel was hand made with 32 double butted DT Swiss spokes, box rim, and also never out of true. All failed about 2 inches from the bend. I also ride a relatively cheap Halo Aerorage track type wheel with “cheap” single butted (no brand) 32 spoke wheel; never failed, never out of true and more mileage on it than the 3 other wheels combined. I strongly suspect an inherent weakness in double butted spokes where their thickness is changed. I also appreciate that spoke tension/wheel build quality etc is very important.
I think tahs USA at the end 😅😅😅😅😅😅 classic
I'm a 90 kg rider myself and have destroyed loads of wheels. What fixed it for me is building my own wheels so I could tailor them for my weight and abuse. Going to straight gauge spokes moves the weak point to the rims, which means you need heavier rims as well. You will end up with a stronger wheel but at the cost of weight. Its weird that your non drive side spokes break, these spokes bear the least of the load. That would point to the spokes being not tension-ed enough. But breaking spokes at the thin part indicates the spokes being overloaded. And its quite a feat to have 3 wheel sets with an incorrect tension. I would take the wheels to a bike shop or wheel builder to get the tension checked.
Smaller chainrings, go for it. I've been using 48/32 for a few years now and would not swap back to bigger. I couldn't get that with the ultegra groupset so got a very nice FSA carbon chain set. With Ultegra 11/28 mechanical, perfect!😁👍
Great vid. Tested my trainer (Tacx Flux 2) VS my Favero pedals last year. Ran them simultaneously and metered as I rode. Got generally within +/-2% of each other, which probably is within margin of error for both devices. So in general I think you can take readings for what they are. Good idea to recalibrate occasionally.
#askgcntech been having a rear derailleur bolt that has become loose in recent months. Never has this before. What could be causing this? (Photo attached)
#askgcntech Hi Guys! Beeswax Boy is back! 😀🐝What if the rider loses 2kg of weight (not muscle mass) instead of lightening the bike? Will he/she feel the same effect on effort during regular rides, sprints, climbs, and other scenarios? Thanks in advance!
Loved the question about big chain rings. I have a friend that has been cycling for many years. She calls them knee wreckers as she has had knee surgeries couple times and downsized to smaller.
I'm 95 kg and also break rear wheels, I ride 6-7 hours per week.
Offset rims have worked better for me. My current set has 3mm offset which increases non-drive spoke tension by almost 30% on my build! This lived until I clobbered a pothole on a fast bunch ride–dinged the rim but no broken spokes. These have 32, 14/17 Guage Sapim spokes so they are still relatively light.
I used to (back when I was strong) build rear wheels with straight gauge spokes and fronts with butted (often aero). The rears were also usually 4 cross and fronts 1x or radial.
#AskGCNTech I always give my road bikes a basic wipe down after each ride. I've been using a soft cloth dampened with denatured alcohol to wipe off my brake rotors before moving on to wipe-clean my chain (Silca Synergetic). But it occurs to me I may be damaging or wiping off the bedding material on my brake rotors … what say you??
Regarding power meter discrepency with the trainer. It's very easy to figure out what power meter is the more accurate. It's the one that's measuring the higher number.
Some guy: I’m a heavy rider at 96 kilos.
Me: •laughs in 140 kilos• Are you tho?