Tudor Pelagos FXD Chronograph Alinghi Red Bull Racing 25807KN-0001 Review + Luxury Watch Buyer Guide

Contact Team Mosso for pricing and availability.
Email: tmosso@thewatchbox.com

Contact tmosso@thewatchbox.com for pricing and availability; Either I have it, or I can get it!

Watches featured on this edition of Weekend Watches:
4952545 – Tudor Pelagos FXD Chronograph “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” (25807KN-0001)
4958450 – Breguet Transatlantique Type XXII Flyback Chronograph (3880ST/H2/3XV)
4987475 – Bremont Bamford Aurora Limited Edition Black DLC (S502-DLC-BAMFORD-L-S)
4978581 – Girard-Perregaux Laureato (81010-52-3118-1CM)
4964466 – Armin Strom Manual Water Limited Edition (ST11-MW.05)
4976700 – F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Black Label
4910006 – Ulysse Nardin Freak (026-88)
4959151 – De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Tourbillon “Season 1” Limited Edition (DW5TSB)

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hi this is Tim of the 1916 company welcome and thanks for logging on we are starting our weekend off right with watches and batting lead off I’m using a baseball metaphor to describe a watch dedicated to rata launched in 2023 from tutor this is the pagos fxd chronograph a linky Red Bull Racing so it is a battery of Firsts that represents the alignment of tutor with the linky Red Bull Racing Syndicate that will contest the America’s Cup so what is famous about these firsts well a big one this is tutor’s first use of a carbon composite case another is that because this is part of the fxd series this is tutor’s first use of an integrated bar lug system on a chronograph now the watch is actually Tri material so 43 mm in diameter the hardware for the rounds as well as the bezel is titanium the case is carbon composite and then the case back as well as the movement canister which is the inner structure of the case made of stainless steel you can see the syndicates logo on the back a lingy racing and Red Bull both taking a quick look at the dial you can see it features the same blue color as the syndicate’s gear branded merchandise and boat we have a bezel that looks like it might be a diving bezel at first glance but then you realize that that it is biral and then it’s a mission timer style countdown bezel that starts from 60 and ends at zero it does feature a ceramic insert you’re going to be happy to know that the watch features no shortage of luminescence and you can time two events concurrently using the chronograph as well as that bezel the dial also twin register exhibiting one of the differences between the original brightling b01 and this tutor adaptation of it which is called the mt5813 brightling uses a 30-minute chronograph register tutor modifies it to have a 45 minute register other changes including replacing the mobile stud index with a free sprung balance allat tutor and Rolex replacing brightlings metal hairspring with an antimagnetic silicon hairspring and of course chronometer certified like the brightling vertical clutch and column wheel with particularly appealing column wheel action I’ve always felt the b01 architecture has one of the best column wheel feels in the business on par with longa and Zenith and Rolex in that regard 200 meters water resistant but again it’s not strictly a dive watch since the bezel can move both to and fro there’s a quick set in hacking the straps actually made in France by Julian far in the santen region and on the wrist you can see although it does take some figuring to get one of these things on once it’s there it’s use of velcro means that the fine-tuning adjustment is effectively infinite so you will be able to get this to fit flush and comfortably and being mostly Sapphire titanium and carbon it’s fairly light on the wrist as well a wonderful and offbeat watch from tutor and one that I really enjoy a fun watch to wear and a fun watch to own all right that is our leadoff hitter but we’ve got our cleanup hitter coming now your heaviest hitter in baseball your guy who can hit the ball hardest is always your your fourth place hitter they call it cleanup and this is definitely the heaviest hit H I have on the show today originally shown back in 2010 the breade type 22 didn’t actually hit the market until 2012 because of the challenge of implementing all of its Technologies and features and that’s saying something when brega has Limitless resources from lman and the SWAT group so here you can see we have a 72,000 vibration per hour 10 Hertz escapement very similar to what you’ll find on the classic chronometry that won the gphg idor on the back you could see the oscillator the escapement you can see is primarily made of silicon and almost as thin as a spiderweb the hairspring also silicon and antimagnetic free sprung automatic winding with a 40h hour power reserve and with a 72,000 vibration per hour rate it’s potentially accurate to better than 1 second a day the chronograph can register 12 of a second so it has very high resolution and it makes 30 second circuits the dial like old lman calibers including the one on which this movement is distantly based it has a central 60-minute register it is also a flyback so you can reset and restart without first stopping and unlike a lot of those Lanas which feature a 24-hour hand that’s mechanically geared to the 12-hour hand this is an actual independent second time zone we also have something else that a lot of those old lman 1340 and 1315 calibers don’t have which is true stop seconds and then the watch is 100 met water resistant something rarely seen on Pilot’s watches with a bidirectional bezel that can be used for timing as you also time a separate interval with the chronograph no shortage of luminescence including on the bezel index and some of the sub registers the watch is Big there’s no getting around that it’s too big for me it’s about 18 mm thick and on my wrist you could see that it it has a huge wingspan it’s a pilot’s watch but it’s for big Pilots not a big Pilot’s watch but a big Pilot’s watch you could see the thickness of it you could see the breadth of it I think your wrist should probably be 17 maybe 18 cm circumference before wearing this but if you can wear it what a do it all Mega watch I mean frankly something reard M would charge real estate prices to own had something like this been created by reard meal now let’s say you want a big big bold watch but you’re on a budget well that’s okay big bold bremont and Bamford they’re right up your alleys so 224 launch DLC coded steel 500 piece limited edition the bremont Bamford Aurora it’s based on the supermarine S500 GMT and so it’s part of the supermarine family which means it’s 500 M water resistant and then you can see it’s got a helium Escape valve on the side and what appears at first glance like it might be a GMT bezel it’s actually unidirectional like a dive bezel so provided you just mentally keep track of the fact that you’re not looking at minutes you’re looking at intervals of 5 minutes with a 24-hour scale you can use this as a dive bezel and I’ll show you just how well this Aurora Borealis inspired watch glows the full bezel is luminescent it is sapphire capped which gives it both durability and a lustrous luxurious aesthetic and if you just remember that those intervals on the bezel are five minute intervals you’re going to be just fine using this as a dive timer and of course we’ve got the sandwich dial which is California style allaha 1930s panai with the Roman numerals on the top Arabic numerals on the bottom and then a stencil over a solid disc of loom now it’s a no date so you can see it’s clean balanced dial London yes it is a British built watch and it is timed to ISO 3159 chronometer standards inside of Britain so if you want to support British watchmaking great way to do it the tryptic case design off-centered crown for ambidextrous use a really superb 120 click action it’s both precise and crisp on the back supermarine best known for the World War II Spitfire fighter was actually known in its earlier eras as a manufacturer of high performance float planes including record Setters so that’s what you’ve got on the back remember I said it’s chronometer adjusted not CC but the iso 3159 that underpins the Coos CU remember this all done in England then we can also see anti-shock the movement spacers inside the case are actually rubber so this is a very shock resistant watch that’s difficult to damage even under abusive conditions anti-magnetic it has a faraday soft iron cage around the movement to make it highly resistant to magnetic flux we have a new Buck straps to a wonderful sanded lower grain leather the top layer removed by sanding to remove pores scars and Imperfections in the hide you could see this Aurora Borealis inspired watch as a stra match DLC Black pin buckle and inside we have a celita SW 330 in chronometer grade with a 50 hour automatic winding power reserve and the independent 24 and 12h hour formats throw it on the wrist big watch but not overpowering I could wear this and I actually like the look of it it’s designed to be St it’s designed to be a standout it’s not designed to be a watch for a shy man I do love the green and the black I think that’s effective combo and if any of you guys have seen my recent social media posts about my newest bicycle it’s actually that combo it’s black and green maybe I need to accessorize guys let me know in the description but as you can see incredibly it does fit underneath the cuff at least this cuff in the world of sports watches there’s only a couple of Original Gangster integrated bracelet models everyone wishes they had been in on the ACT during the 70s including companies like Christopher Ward that didn’t even exist back then but the Gerard perago laurato is the real deal launched in 1975 initially as a quartz watch it’s had a powerful comeback the last few years at newly independent Gerard perago as a mechanical watch and that’s exactly what we have right here this is the GP laurri a rose gold and Onyx so you’ve got a combination of rose gold or pink gold as they describe it with a black onyx dial you’ve got the little logo that is the image of the toron with three golden Bridges and then you can see that the edge of the bridges actually match the design of the hands the feted bezel of the laurato one of the two design icons of Gerard perago one is the triple golden bridge toron and then this bezel is the other which is why it’s echoed in the fasting of the crown a thin watch it’s under 11 mm thick it’s 50 mm or 50 m I should say water resistant with a screw down Crown so 50 m with a screw down is safe for surface swimming so you can wear this over over the summer you have the larger caliber 1800 here rather than the earlier 3300 the 3300 I believe was about 26 and change whereas this is about 30 mm on the nose so it better fills the case back of a large watch it also has more power Reserve at 54 versus the old movements 46 nicely decorated the bevels and the stripes the peage and the polished screws are particularly attractive but really what I like most is this beautiful symmetrical bridge for the solarized mainspring barrel and you can see how broad and gleaming and bright and rounded those bevels are really nicely done a watch that looks and feels the part of a super Premium Time piece in the hand it’s incredibly Hefty and throwing it on the wrist I appreciate that it is a very thin watch and that the ends of the case Arc down to make it more compatible with a small wrist you may be able to wear this watch on a wrist as small as 14 cm c conference once more mine is 16 and I find that it’s a great match a lovely watch and an agreeable companion if you want something just a little bit more luxurious maybe a bit more special and rare than a standard laurato this is the way to go here’s a watch that seems neither fish nor fowl in fact it’s named after one of the four traditional elements of folklore so Earth W earth air fire and water and of course this is the Armen Strom manual water launched in 2010 it’s a 100 piece piece limited edition in steel that has some sports watch qualities such as for example its robust balance architecture luminescence and a steel case but it also has a lot of dress watch elements that we’ll go over in a moment the watch is only about 12.5 mm thick so it’s thinner than you think but 43.5 mm in diameter makes it fairly large it has the arm androm chin which is intended as a platform for customization think a small Crest or initials the profile is distinctive with stepped out lugs and vertical satin rather than longitudinal the dial is one and the same as the caliber aw11 made in-house and exquisitely so note the presence of circular coat to genev we have beveling on the edge of the bridges we have an intermediate wheel we have the minute wheel with minute wheel pinion we have the hour wheel next to that and then below all of that the Canon pinion turns the minute wheel now the watch has a barrel that’s visible below all of this and on the reverse side you can see it’s a large movement designed to fill the case 5day power Reserve 18,000 vibration per hour beat rate note the presence of a full balance Bridge with a free sprung balance for precise setting and shock resistance and then there is an overcoil hairspring note the adjustment in five positions like a chronometer the over coil allows it to keep consistent time in different positions solarized Crown wheel solarized ratchet wheel circular coev freehand engraving on on this bridge surrounding the escapement and balance you can see it’s the upper mounting point or upper pivot point for the center wheel it’s effectively a very narrow and long train bridge and the watch does have that 5day manual wine power reserve on the wrist take a look Hornback alligator strap it is an arm androm Factory strap very robust and luxurious it’s the kind of thing you expect to see on a Royal Oak offshore the watch is Broad at about 54 mm to cross the wrist so I think it’s probably a little bit too large for me but you be the judge if you think this fits well and your wrist is my size game on also take note although it does look thick it’s really quite slim and it will slide underneath a dress cuff a winner on every front this is a rare watch from a Cool brand run by two really cool people Serge Michelle and Claude griesler they’re enthusiasts they’re Engineers they are watch entrepreneurs and they’ve been at it now since the late 2000s when they took over from Brand founder Armen Strom and converted the company from its previous focus on ornate engraved and skeletonized ETA movements towards a new era in which Armen strm has become a manufacturer of great esteem in the independent watchmaking space speaking of independent watch makers of great esteem FP jorn and here we’ve got something super special this is a black label krier the OCTA calandrier discontinued after 2015 was an annual calendar based on the 5-day power Reserve OCTA automatic movement and you can see on the reverse of the watch this is an exceptionally rare one because it has the older french-maid Eleanor case but it is Black Label a series that only launched in 2008 so there was really only one year when these cases and this series overlapped and while it’s not impossible for an Eleanor case to show up a few months or even a year or two down the line rest assured there are probably few enough Eleanor cased 40 mm OCTA kantri black labels in the world to count on two hands so 40 millim in diameter Black Label is this exclusive combination of a platinum case and a black and gold dial for this series which can only be bought at Jor stores and then only by those who have a prior purchase history with jeor and Scuttle butt on the street is that you now have to spend $400,000 with jorn to be qualified for Black Label now it’s a retrograding annual calendar so retrograde date annual calendar one adjustment per year during the jump from February to March OCTA automatic you can see we have a black and gold dial a platinum case and then a movement which is solid gold rose gold 18 karat for the bridges and plates 22 karat for the rotor well it’s rated for 5 days of chronometric power reserve the fact is it’ll run for about 7 days before it stops the absolute loot power Reserve is about 160 hours this one has a rare feature it was ordered with a factory full deployant clasp something that’s generally a significant upcharge item costing well into four figures throw it on the wrist and you can see the 40 mm case is traditionally beautiful and versatile it’s a thin watch and it’s also a fairly narrow watch across the wrist at 48 mm my wrist wears it well I think this is viable on a wrist as small as 14 cm circumference again 40 mm is the case size this is on a really nice strap which is actually rubberized leather with a trone we’ll call it a quad tone black white red and blue really nice and one of the most compelling combinations of jorn model series size and strap I’ve ever encountered all right this is arguably the most horological significant watch you’re going to see today the freak 2 effectively the second generation freak launched in 2005 the freak 28,800 vibrations per hour made some changes to the original model here we have the Dual uliss replacing the original Dual direct movement and you can see it has those symmetrical toothed Escape wheel teeth that’s how you know the difference between a true freak one and a freak 1.5 and a freak 2 you’ll have those little teeth on every single wheel rather than irregularly shaped Wheels you can also see that the Dual UL is made of silicon which through its catech subsidiary uliss Norden would eventually bring in house it features the same bezel setting mechanism baguette movement and Carousel torban of the original freak and you’ll even note that the balance is designed with a free sprung architecture for precise setting so a carousel designed by the Dane bonab bonx in the 1890s was designed to be effectively the same mechanism as a torion rotating the escapement with respect to gravity but in a more durable form so you have a separate drivetrain that rotates the carriage and then another one to drive the escapement so I’m able to do this this is another feature of the freak to there’s a little Lift Lock when you lift it you unlock the bezel that is used for setting on the original freak it was too easy to brush the bezel and change the time here you could see I’m using the bezel to set the time the baguette movement which includes the Train the escapement and the balance this is the minute hand that below it is is the hour hand push this little lock back down now it’s fixed lots to love on the dial side you can see that the index for the minute the index for the hour they’re actually satinated on their top and finished on their sides there’s beveling on the edges of the bridge which features stripes across its top and we have fire blued screws there is a sapphire hour ring with Metalized numerals and you can see uliss norden’s corporate blue evocative of their Marine chronometers of the 19th and early 20th century and along those lines we have a individual number plate on the side by the way the watch only 12 millimeters thick so you have that individual number plate held by fired screws we have lugs that are stepped out from the caseband with a little bit of a teardrop under tuck and a fluted Edge we have a full deploying clasp again the anchor logo reminding of Le norden’s nautical Heritage so Carol freser cappi later of Cartier later of tag Hoyer created an idea in the 90s for a watch that had a rotating baguette movement at center with a main spring that sat around the edge uliss Norden ultimately purchased the rights modified it and that became the freak you could see that fully encompassing mainspring on the back now here we actually wind it using the case back and little windows allow us to see the coiling of the main spring which when fully energized gives us seven days of power Reserve you can also see that the case back has a beautiful Blue Wave Motif the UN anchor solarization at the center over the bearing with blued screws and that little Windows allowing you to see into the main spring they’re beveled on their edges and satinated or snailed I should say across their tops turning back to the dial side the freak also got larger in its second generation again the original freak 2001 this freak 2005 so the original freak was 42.5 this is 44.5 but still very very thin and the watch has a unique feature that’s easy to miss at first glance there’s a reason freaks were moisture and dust resistant only not truly water resistant until the freak Cruiser of 2013 tell me when you see it notice that the upper pivot of the torban actually protrudes through the sapphire so having a hole in the sapphire the watch is only moisture and water resistant so that that is the trick that thins out the watch Tak a quick look at it on the wrist it’s difficult for me to wear cuz it’s on a strap that’s not broken in and is fully integrated but I could absolutely wear this watch freak one freak two it does fit and again the thinness is a big part of the appeal if your wrist is my size or larger you’re going to find it fits down the barrel you could see here just that the lugs are not over the edge of my wrist it’s a graceful elegant and historically important watch on so many levels I cannot give it an in-depth treatment just think of this I’ve described the freak as the a watch of our entire post 2000 era and I stand by that that said the most mindblowing watch that you’re going to see today is the one I’m about to bring on screen made in only 10 pieces for 2021 this is the debaton dream watch 5 toron season 1 a 10piece limited edition in fired grade five TI titanium and Sapphire this seash shell-like watch was conceived with the American recording artist cim Dean or swiss beats and he has a remarkably refined taste in watches a Young Rich recording artist you could probably forgive him being a little bit exuberant with the design but he went with the purists choice favoring a relatively understated combination of materials in titanium and Sapphire no gems no frills visible movement and mechanism at the expense of other elements here you could see that the entire disc array for the jumping hour is completely visible and it is an incredibly revealing mechanism that brings the movement to the four in effect the engineering is the essence of this watch it is the source of its style you also have though it’s easy to miss a spherical moon phase that is 1/ half blued steel 1/ half white Palladium and has an adjustment interval of once every 122 years now I got to open up the strap on this so you can see the case back but rest assured it’ll be worth the wait on the reverse side once again we have transparency twin main spring barrels and a visible Barrel Bridge everything finished the highest standard possible four days of power Reserve in spite of the jump hour the moon phase and the energy intensive toron the toron by the way a 30 second toron spinning at twice the speed of a conventional toron regulator it also oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour and as you can see uses Deaton’s own design for a silicon Escape wheel to reduce the total mass the wheel is made of white gold and Blu titanium and the entire assembly has a mass of18 g 18 hundredths of a gram it is the lightest torban currently in production and at debaton toron Regulators are supposed to have chronometric purpose which means they need to make the watch a better timekeeper not just more spectacular and at debaton timing tolerance is quoted for their torbal generally between 13 and 1 second gained per day don’t be afraid of the stated size of 58 millimet it’s 58 down the wrist but it is not 58 across the wrist it’s only 47 across the wrist so you can see how much clearance I have on each side even a small wrist possibly even a lady’s wrist can pull this off and they did things right putting the time telling end closer to the hand rather than where it might disappear underneath the cuff if you have any reservations about a blue case like what happens if it gets scratched rest assured because it is a fired titanium and not a PVD or a cvd when the watch goes back for service debaton obviously removes the movement and The Sapphires it refires the case to restore the blue oxidation this is truly the stuff of Dreams hence the name dream watch 5 tbon if you love this or any watch you saw on today’s episode reach out to us at team alsoo the 1916 company.com