EN interpretation
This conference is co-organized by the Musée de la vie wallonne and the House of European History as part of the European partnership on the history of waste “Throwaway – the history of a modern crisis”.
Hello to you all welcome to this music for this first conference that we are organizing among two big exhibitions here waste sorting out and upcycling so this is the first conference that will look at issues linked to waste so the first one today we’ll talk about slow fashion and
Secondhand Market is it a good solution and for that we invited Sandrine kunson and you will have the pleasure to meet her in a few minutes the next conferences we’ll talk about programmed obsolescence on the 20th of October on the 26th of October zero waste and future of negro waste on night
Of December and on the 2nd of March next year we will talk about the future of Industrial Waste in walonia so those themes are very Broad but we are all touched by them and affected by them and this first conference is happening with a partnership with the house of European
History and we are being filmed and recorded today and we are being uh streamed live and we have a lot of listeners who are joining us today and without further Ado I will give the word to abasavador from the European house and she will talk a little bit about the
Partnership thank you very much William hello to you all on the on the behalf of the European history House of European history in Brussels I would like to thank the music of the Walloon live for organizing this partnership it started two years ago together with 10 European Museum in various cities and
In Belgium we have our Museum in Brussels and yours here in liege and this partnership works on the history of waste and it is called throw away project and in this landscape this conference is being Webb Street on the um House of European history website in French but also with a conference
Interpretations into English and so we are trying to touch a broader public so that they can listen and they also have the possibility to ask questions in the chat and William will read those to us later and if this theme interests you waste and environment and if you want to
Look at more conferences on top of the ones that William announced they will also be at the other conferences online that will also be web streams so thank you very much for being here and I wish you a good conference so today we are welcoming song Studied the history of Art and she worked for a long time on exhibitions and on the subject of Heritage and she also trained herself in sewing and fashion at the Academy among others and following those training she decided to get deeper into that subject creating a brand sanona with a rose pampranel
Brand and she committed herself to the slow slow 31 um non-profit organization we’ll talk about it later and she also worked at the helmo higher education school and she also was busy at the san Luke institution so I will give the floor to sandrin and after
We’ve heard her we also will have the possibility to receive some questions hello to you all thank you very much for joining us online or in person I’m very happy to be here so usually my audience is quite numerous so I teach sometimes to over a hundred students and
However despite that today I’m feeling quite humble and I will be non-judgmental and I will try to answer this very broad question is the second hand a good solution does it meet the Environmental issues and questions that we are asking ourselves so first of all of course the
First reflex is say yes but and yesterday evening I was eating at a restaurant with a friend and we were talking about faniardo an actress and she was talking about paradoxes in an article there is like a bit of an energy when we are wondering questioning ourselves
Sometimes there’s a tendency to go a little bit too fast and to say things that are contradictory to themselves and so I please I hope that you will forgive me if I say several things and I present you several perspectives I will try to present to you what this second hand
Consumption is I will present to you the history and then I will go into the yes it’s a solution but and then I would like to talk about the best practices and about the potential solutions that are being developed in this world in transition that is ours today
So first of all I thought it would be interesting to really reflect what do we talk about when we talk about fashion and second hand we talk about freep in French which is like rags and so from a history in the past clothing garments were tailor-made they were being
Cherished by the owners and so in the past when someone had to change a garment that person might become unhappy about it and so the clothing used to be really used until the very end and even then afterwards started clothes or tattered fabric would be reused and it’s only later that
We could see that this new clothing sir production or Ultra fast prediction was being developed so in the fast in the past tailor made clothing would be repaired would be re-seawn would be really really cherished and loved and alterated and so there was um they were very useful
And they were also matching a social Evolution and the clothes clothes would also be given um as a legacy or as a Heritage and we found notarial Deeds that proved that some clothes were being given as a Heritage to children so this is very different from what we find today in our
Wardrobes and today we don’t have the same relationship to clothing and maybe one of the solution for clothing would be to give clothes and garments their good name again like the good reputation and to find this love again to the clothes so when do we start seeing second-hand clothes so in the past
Thrifting always existed however the second hand markets can really be seen in the 19th of century in a prairie neighborhood called Le caridu Temple and there were four different hallways and one hallway was only for clothes and so in that building you could find small stands or small shops around
Clothes and this karodu table will know famous periods and then less famous ones and after the second World War there will be a last good period and then it started disappearing until now when we can see that second hand is um getting popular again oh I’m sorry I forgot to show you my
Slides so here I give you a small quote to try to show you that today second hand Market is very big so what he says it means that it is knowing a growth rate that is 20 times higher than the new market and in the USA they say that slow
Fashion or secondhand will be bigger than new fashion and we can also see that the this new second hand Market will have a value assessed at 36 billion of dollars in 2021 and it should double by next year so this is quite scary but at the
Same time it is also some optimism we might be have a tendency to think that it is a good solution so here’s some pictures about Le karodu table you can see some ladies there and they’re going from stand to stand and there are thrifting um also thrifting underwear looking for shoes thank you
And if you look at the history of clothing there are several turning points and they slowly led us to an over consumption first turning point is the Industrial Revolution so textile is being processed so we are in Belgium here so maybe you knew you know the movie dance which is
Talking about this industry at the end of the 19th century in Belgium and this Industrial Revolution will slowly produce our leaders to fast fashion but there are two other turning points so which is the ready to wear which appears in the U.S in the 20s in
The 30s and then there’s a big boom in the 40s and the United States are using the world war to develop their own economy and they will implement this ready to wear system ready to wear will come to France however hot Couture in France does not like ready to wear except for
Yves Saint Laurent who will rebounce on it and will develop rivgosh his own ready to wear brand however at the start at the outset the French people did not like ready to wear it’s only later that it will gain momentum and for me that’s a switch for me a
Turning point so that means that in the past people were used to thrifting but we’ve ready to wear those people will think okay I don’t need tailor-made clothing anymore I can buy new garments new ready to wear and they don’t need to um adjust or alterate them and in the
90s it exploded so I remember the The Apparition the appearance of each em and supercom facts my mom would take us there super fun facts and she found it very practical in her case she would inherit clothes from her cousin and for me that was also
The case I would use clothes from my cousins and this used to be a tradition but it changed and we felt a bit of um the rise of Freedom so there was a woman this woman started to work and they were able to buy new clothes for their
Children and so there was this new tendency that was appearing and so for me those those switches those turning points will um slow down the second hand however that does not mean that second hand will disappear we still find second hand but secondhand is chosen because of a trend because of
How it looks and this is what will make it more popular slowly again so we have fast fashion made in Europe so at the beginning HDM for example will produce in Europe and then textile industry will become more and more toxic because of delocalization so the manufacturing and the
Will be delocalized and today some clothes will produce garments in 48 hours so we are in the midst of ultra fast fashion and that comes with a whole series of problems that are linked to the possibility what makes it possible to produce a garment in 48 hours
So I would like to draw your attention to this here so new garments pollute but they’re not the only ones who pollute second hand also pollutes this is why I say yes it’s a solution but because I would like to draw your attention to the fact that
Even though second hand is not polluting because of um Manufacturing washing them and sending them off also pollutes and this is not taken into account by Secondhand uh sales platform so here we have a small graph and we can see the various ratio of pollutions so thrifters will have tips and tricks they
Will tell you to use vodka water down with spray which can help you avoid having to wash clothes with water they will also tell you that you can wear jeans seven times without washing them because every time you wash a piece of clothing it has a huge impact on the environment foreign
Why do we use second hand why do we buy second hand because of monetary reasons because it is a trend because it gives you a certain identity and then the new thing what is new for Our Generation because we have an environmental mindset so yes so yes it is a solution however we
Should Define exactly what we mean by Secondhand so we have the thrift stores uh professionals that’s in the real life all virtual platforms and here I’d like to develop further different argument first I would like to cite Catherine doriak who says we have manufactured enough garment to dress the entire planet up to
2100 so hence the questions of secondhand what do we need exactly but what we need is already manufactured so how can we use it what’s our action the action we choose to make are interesting so indeed second hand stores and Beyond um so of course this is a very interesting subject
And then next to these physical standards are helping social economy we have platforms and the most uh famous one is vintage and today vintage we are talking about addiction about the scrolling addiction there is a practice which is called scalping which is a practice you buy new clothes
And then you resell them at a higher price and so some people use vintage um and earn their money with that so vintage created a big change because he provided um everyone the possibility to purchase second health so it’s vintage played a wide role because I as I explained earlier um
Only the nobleman’s the rich had the means to to sow garments and we even paid servants or or staff with clothes but now vintage changed the situation a lot um however this led to over consumptions over consumption for me is at the core of the issue here if
We have to choose between overconsum consuming new clothing or overconsuming second hand a government for me there is not much difference we have to understand that that at some point our governments become trash and we need to postpone that status we need to try and keep our closes for a long
Time so today we are faced by a massive influx of secondhand Clauses and in my wardrobe I constantly need to assess the quality of closing that can be sold or not and the situation is the same for second hand shots they need to sort out the low
Quality items and we call it throw away more about the Vintage platform but each time I can cite a positive point and counter it with a negative point for instance where we’re talking about over consuming indeed Stephanie Calvino mentions fast Fashions of the second hand yes however
This is a an economy that is direct from people to people you don’t have any intermediaries therefore the it’s a micro economy between micro dealings between individual however the system is not micro at least it’s huge and it takes time it’s time consuming it’s energy consuming and I’d like to mention
A thesis wonderful thesis from And I had the chance to discuss with her and she told me you know Sandrine if you bring your vintage parcel are you driving your car and drop it to a shipping point well the advantage of on the environment the fact that you bought second hand well it has been counted by
The fact that you had to drive your car so indeed you sometimes you try to do the right thing and it’s not the case so we have to think a bit wider Beyond and corally what does she says in her thesis she says we have to see the to compare uh
The sale of the the items and the effect it has on on the environment therefore she encourages us to see what’s use we have from the purchased garment uh now we have government libraries or swap shops where you can Exchange closes and I have created a few of these stores myself
To come back to Vinted we have some downsides abuses but on the other hand I’d like to say it if someone goes to a flea market and try and find the best item and you know these markets and she’s saving all these people they are they are saving clothes
That are just displayed on the ground on the carpet and to me those who take the time to ReDiscover all the clothes and they take the time to go to those flea markets and sell back sell them back to Vintage I find some added value in this Behavior because they’re saving and they’re
Postponing the death of the of the Garment so that’s a a positive point but of course some professionals use Vinted the other way what we can do I know in Belgium there will be some changes in the taxation so anyone who is earning over 2 000 Euros on the Vintage platform will
Have to pay tax on these revenues so that’s one way that the government is trying to cut us the abuses and excesses that we have observed on Vinted to go further the solution I’d like to suggest is to go with a a concept called look at the cost per wear
Each time you purchase a garment look for quality but also try and think what’s the use of this purchase just ask yourself how many times will I wear this garment if this is something you’re going to wear every day and if you think that yes I will put
The right price to purchase such garment so you have to divide the price by the number of time you’re going to wear it’s and you can apply the same concept to fast fashion because they have programmed obsolescence in them we are we’re talking about fridges or microwaves for that rarely do we mention
This for government but it is the case if you buy a fast fashion t-shirt at five euros but you can’t wear it many times because very soon it’s not looking good do apply the concept perhaps the price even if it’s five euros will be too high
For you for the planet and with this in mind you can find quality items in second hand I know some people are against the gentrification of vintage it’s used to be available and affordable and it’s becoming more expensive but I still we can I still think we can find that
It is possible to look for Quality items and how do we know if it’s a quality item or not well you have to feel it to touch the material and we indeed do need to take time and devote time to that and also read the label okay you’re going to
Tell me well on the invinted is not possible but if you go on a physical stores try and see um the material is it synthetic is it easy to wash wool linen these are Environmental material that you can buy second hand or new well these are some examples of
Best practices that I would like to suggest and also to reflect on and project yourselves before you buy and very really briefly I’d like to mention my project Swap Shop slow 31 Marie lovenberg and I decided to create something that would help us think a platform for dialogue and we
Directly thought about slow fashion the opposite of fast fashion we draw a pyramid oh we found a pyramid already made but we we really adopted it to our purposes and we created workshops events as you can see on the pyramid it’s to take care of what you already own
Go to alterations mend repair take care of of your garments and try and try and soul yourself we have forgotten many skills it’s time to learn again that was the first layer of our pyramid number two is to swap garments we have open stores where you can just swap your clauses
They are assessed according to a few criterials including quality the material Etc so these are shared word words we have about 400 people exchanging and swapping Clauses like that we are based in liege but I know that this is very um on the rise in other places so I hope that this will
Increase even further and ask for highly I’m convinced that this is our future to create more closest library so you simply hire your garment and not purchase it so we have a shift in paradigm creating common a common World group another individual World War something you can share and swap
Thank you so these are some resources I’d like to share with you you will find here a link to Corelli’s thesis and some articles that I have used and finally the Bible for me that I use in the lecture I provide where you can have a thorough definitions of thrift shops and
You can find a very complete history of the of our Clauses thank you thank you for your attention and if you have questions I’m here to listen to them thank you so much Sandrine I do have many questions but let us first ask the audience dear participants if you have questions
Raise your hands we’ll bring the mic to you just a second yes the mic so that it’s recorded you mentioned the period in history the industrialization of clothing I would like to highlight that women were deprived of their skill they’ll they lost their skills during that period we
Used to be able to sew to mend to alter closings and to me it’s a shame that we we have lost those skills how how can the how can we bring them back there is a excellent question thank you very much the Garment professions did not only affect women we had many men
Um uh tailors were men and those who worked the leather they were men as well we you have the same in uh Couture mostly men it’s true that the smaller jobs for mending and repairing that affected women more indeed and as you are pointing it a very
Precisely after the 50s women go back to their household and that’s coincides with the ready to wear and women in general emancipation so we have we are in the midst of this period women won’t have time to to sow and to do all they used to do of course at
School you still learn some skills basic skills but today they don’t have sewing classes anymore lately we visited School and we provided a lecture combined with a workshop we asked the students to bring a government to be mended and some discovered how to to sow basic really basic skills
Therefore it is an education issue as well it is true that closes were less appreciated so if you do not consider close as something important well you lose all the skills that are surrounding it for its maintenance for its repair and that that led us to the area of throwaway one of the
Key would be to reappropriate these lost skills by women but also by men and that’s in an interesting point it is not we cannot divide this it is not clustered and what is nice is that men and women everyone is interested in recovering those skills thank you other questions foreign
What has been said well I’m 58. I remember in primary school we had to learn how to knit how to so uh only girls and um boys well boys had intellectuals intellectual games to do a chess or anything else so it was very frustrating to me that we had the sewing
Lesson and boys had the interesting stuff to do and today I feel emancipated and to me it’s a change that today we don’t have those sewing classes any longer for girls and that today girls can also do something interesting well the idea was that it’s for everyone
And we don’t need to discriminate and discern it girls and boys and of of course at school we were just taught to do this and that without explanation we didn’t know why it’s important to be able to mend a garment thank you it’s really interesting this is very interesting because today
When we all ask children to take a jeans from home and we teach them sewing Not in an imposing it onto him but through games and they are making something and they’re learning and we explain to them why it is interesting to reuse an old jeans because manufacturing genes nowadays
It means leaders and leaders of water I think it’s also over 40 000 kilometers that the genes has to travel before it lands in a shop here in Europe and we try to explain what is the value of knowing how to sew and how to thread a needle because Unfortunately today we are
Throwing away pieces of clothing where there is a button missing and why is this garment being thrown away just because it is ready to throw away garment and so for me I don’t see the utility to repair it and so it is I’m not trying to blame but
I am coming back to what I was saying at the start we need to give clothings and clothes there reputation their Fame again their good name and we want to multiply workshops repair Workshop we want to infuse a new life into textile jobs taking into account today circumstances and labor conditions
So however we we know we’re not going to work the same way here as some people are working in other countries I telling you a story about an engineer and he was talking about minds mind in Europe if we had to reopen Minds here in Europe to extract those rare ores we would
Understand better what are the conditions the labor conditions that are necessary and how different they are from those practiced abroad another question I was a little bit wondering you were talking about repairing alterating clothes and I was wondering if there was also a reflection about how to maintain
And how to wash differently which other products we can use we know that in hotels for example they ask you to not throw the towels on the on the ground every day so they don’t have to change them every day and so we see that there is a reflection
Going on what about the washing products is there a reflection on that are there new products available to wash clothing so because the Soaps and stuff are also very polluting so the most toxic for clothes are the softeners because they are fatty products and they saturate the textile the fabric
And so they are good practices the first of all try to limit the number of washes or grandmothers would do it differently or so for example if you come back from a party you can you can see you can smell the the clothes have a certain smell and
It is possible to not wash it in a washing machine so that’s the first thing and then when you use a product use a basic one like a Marseille soap for example it’s the most basic soap there is and use also a few drops of essential oil and then add some vinegar
So you can soften the fabric and you have to go back to Simplicity and Sim simple is efficient and this is what is going to respect the fabric the most I hope I answered your question are there any other questions thank you I was wondering what was the environmental impact of sewing as
Opposed to buying new clothes what when you create your clothes from scratch that’s a very good question I made a bit of an experiment and compared to the real cost of a garment I couldn’t really analyze the whole life cycle but there are some studies that are starting to being conducted in gram
And at Elmo where I teach some researchers are studying the life cycle and the impact at every step of the manufacturing Pro process so when you create the clothes yourself you can control the impact you have much better so that’s already very positive of course if you want to uh look at the
Details you can choose the materials try to use better labels the label guts and codex for example Cuts is the best one next to that they are also threads that are also gots labeled which is a good one to choose but next to that if you want to create a
T-shirt and if you calculate the cost it can cost you between 35 and 50 euros a piece because you take into account the time it takes you to create it so the labor so this is actually what you pay in real life for a good quality t-shirt so the
There is a whole reflection you can think about your habits your conception purchasing habits so is it a good solution to purchase five low quality t-shirts no it’s better to choose a more ethically produced t-shirt like Eco store for example and I also encourage the elaboration or the drafting up of a charter
To explain how to maintain the clothes so they are a lot of possibilities and Reflections to do and so one of the things to do is I will not purchase five low quality T-shirts because when I add those on top of each other they will cost more than
One good quality t-shirt but are we ready for that are we ready for D growth are we ready to consume less and that’s also at the heart of the problems is this consumption Trend and if we look for an alternative solution like vintage but if we still over consume on Vintage
We are actually not implementing a good solution so I’m coming back to what you were saying online question and they’re asking what is the role of the political level do they have a role to play yes at the European level a lot of things are happening I’m really not um
Able to present to you the details of what is happening at the European level but there are there is a legislation there are official documents and there is also um new requirements that will be imposed on textile Industries requirements when it comes to transparency when it comes to waste when
It comes to obsolescence so things are moving and they need to move they need to move at the macro and at the micro level so that means if Europe drafts up directives but nothing changes at the local um National level it won’t help and then local initiatives they will only really
Gain momentum if there is also some support going from above so the macro and the micro levels need to work hand in hand so if you ban something so in France for example a few years ago they forbade the destruction of new clothes stocks because in the past some
Stocks were being destroyed so that became um that that was banned but what happened the destruction got delocalized so those stocks were then sent abroad to be destroyed so we need both European level decisions and we need local support local initiatives I hope I answered the question another question
Would you recommend a documentary on Fast fashion there are a lot of those the two Coastal fashion for example is the one that had the biggest impact on me so the true cost of fashion is the title of this documentary and it’s really excellent there is
The life of panties pair of panties and I think it’s a filmmaker from liege and she started from the her mother’s shop and I had an exchange with one of the cultural center where this movie where this documentary was shown in 2020 during the Kobe times and it’s also really nice
Lots of interesting things also and a shocked movie happening in uh England and there there is a factory in which women 85 to 95 percent of women labor working in Factory for Brands like boohoo for example and they earn about seven pounds an hour no social security
And this is like in a kind of England’s Norman’s land so this documentary for example it was like a hit in the face I lived in England and it’s really hard for me to comprehend or understand or think about those neglected abandoned Factory buildings that there are some women who are still
Working in horrible conditions we still have a impression that that these sweatshops only happen or exist very far away from us but that’s not the case you can find some in England I also had a question you were talking about the importance of touching the textile to a pre-ender quality and he
Also said something there are some ideas or bias about the quality or the the life expectancy of clothes so people still think that made in China is bad however made in Italy would be good and a luxurious product but it’s not always the case so again
There are a lot of nuances so today there is a trend which is the made in Europe Trend because people are becoming more aware so you go and you look at the label and you might think oh this is made in China this is probably bad quality this is what I would also
Believe in the past and you can see those evolve and I discovered that a garment is labeled thank you it’s not always reflecting what’s happening so for example you can put made in Italy on a piece of clothing when only the buttons were attached to the clothes in made in Italy and
Yes there is this trends we think it’s politically correct to buy made in Italy clothing however there are some things happening in Portugal or in Eastern Europe where there are some sweatshops so that’s why it’s important to work together with ethical Brands who have a clear charger
And for me the solution would be transparency if there is a brand that you like ask questions make some searches on internet if it looks shady and there’s not a lot of transparency it’s probably that they’re not really clear about themselves and about the made in China today we have
Two issues according to me so we have one problem of the ugud minority they are imprisoned they are working in camps and they have to make clothes so for example Lacoste Brands decided not to produce made in China clothes as long as they would not be a solution offered to
Protect that ethnic minority and then another issue let’s not forget that China developed very strong manufacturing capacities but also strong textile know-how and so we go to China today not only to look for cheap made in China but sometimes there are some um suing workshops in China that have a
Very high skilled labor and so there are several aspects and this shows how complex the reality is so once you start wondering and questioning for me that’s the first main step towards conscious purchases now you were talking about transparency another question could you maybe go into details into how does vintage
Work what’s the energy consumption impact what’s what about emissions what is the impact is it only local or is it also broader vintage works on three pillars you have Spain Benny looks so Belgium the Netherlands and France Spain so you have like this axis this region so there’s lots of Vinted packages
I was looking at the number of packages being sent around I thought I read about billions I’m not quite sure anymore but it’s it’s it’s huge so the environmental impact is huge too due to packaging among others I don’t have specific numbers but if you think about
If you think that you are going to walk or use your your your bike to pick up your package that’s better but if you look you have to think about your packaging you can use cardboard or if you can use paper to protect the the clothes it also has a different impact
So I’m not going to stop buying on Vintage I have a 14 year old boy he needs specific types of clothing when I don’t find those garments on or in my barter shop I will look for what he wants or for this specific piece of clothing on Vintage I don’t scroll I’m
Not shopping online but I’m looking for something very specific like pants or shirts and it’s always about thinking it’s the over conception that is bad for the carbon footprint for the waste produced but if you are going about it in a conscious manner if you go about it smartly
Then I think using vintage can also limit your impact I’m not quite sure I answered the question it’s the word waste that made me reacted I went and I bought um like bags to protect some pieces of clothing in the washing machine and I was thinking I could just use an old
T-shirt to do that and so this reflection thing I can just reuse something I already have it’s a bit of a Pity that it we don’t think more they are really simple gestures that we can implement and why can’t we find tips and tricks in textile stores for example to avoid having more
Waste so for example I could use an old jacket to to make a bag so there are many possibilities to transform an upcycle lots of garments are being are tattered and we choose to throw them away but we can make a different choice however we need inspiration to find a solution so yes
This is a challenge but nowadays the good thing is that the homemade is becoming more and more trendy again not only when it comes to a textile and clothes but in a lot of different domains so what you’re talking about is really upcycling it’s it’s giving a new
Added value to something that was already existing and you transform it so it’s not recycling it’s upcycling and this has been existing since the Middle Ages we found old texts about somebody who was transforming all garments in um in a pouch for example and why did that disappear because of ultra liberalism
Because we were given the possibility to live in a consumption Society where we just purchase what we need and we’re not thinking about could I make it myself no I can find it in the store so I’m just go and buy it so it comes from the golden 60s from the 70s
So maybe we should blame our parents a little bit and say it’s their fault but but I do teach future designers and I decided to work with them and the what is remaining as an industrial designer how do you use the leftovers what can I do with them
What can I do with those do I use them in my reflection of um as a designer as a Creator and it’s the same for fashion designers so a lot of them are going to use a zero waste pattern so it’s a new technique so zero waste pattern
The ID being that you are creating the design you’re modeling your garment without um with a less waste possible so they are working with professionals the modelists aiming at having a zero waste to use as much textile material as possible from and others will use the wasted piece in
Order to create new items so that’s very trendy as well another idea is to explain on the label explain the price why the does it costs such and such that’s communication that’s raising awareness and that’s moving towards more transparency you mentioned sewing I as a
Creator as the author of a of a garment I spent so many hours designing the Garment I went to a shop to have manufactured that cost me so much and I need some extra money to be able to make a living out of it so if you describe it on your label that’s
That’s more information to your uh client to your customer you mentioned the use of closest to you encourages to think of the using and here I have an example for a wedding dresses so that’s cool that’s an example of a garment that you wear only once that is expensive that
Enters a lot of text time so perhaps can we just hire a such garment would that be better indeed we have some hiring a high Ring shop for cocktail dresses and I see an increasing demand in wedding dresses higher so the reflection is already present indeed it might be that we are emotionally
Linked to this particular piece another great idea is to use the wedding dress of your mother or your grandmother of someone that is dear to you and alter it alternative and helmets if necessary but it is true that one characteristic of a garment is that it is highly personal it is emotional
Um not perhaps all the items of your wardrobe that you could exchanges or swap with anyone or real you without being attached to it but then you have those particular pieces of garment address can be a wedding dress it can be assured the shirt you were wearing uh at
Graduation time or something that reminds you of your identity of all part of your history and this is important this aspect of closing because that might trigger back some value that we can put in our closest thank you we are drawing to the end of our conference do you have a final
Comments or questions you mentioned emotions and I would like to emphasize the notion of over consumption because overconceptions is a natural compensation for something that is lacking so sometimes we we buy more to fill something that is missing within us and we might reflect on why do
We over consume closes and to me a garment is linked to all these uh pleasure to excitement to something emotional around purchasing the the item so there is a psychology Dimension to us purchasing too many closes thank you for your comments I believe that our Behavior are well covered they are studied by
Marketers by big brands and these brands what they do best is to provoke uh the needs to attract us the attractiveness they are in the windows the smell in the shops the everything is made to attract customers to make you purchases so they play On Emotion very professionally and we have also
Instagram which is feeding us a constant desire of obtaining such and such Clauses to look like those Instagram individual so and we do need to resist that is not easy to resist to such um such a call a massive constant effort and so we feel
When we are in a shop I need to get some pleasure out of purchasing a nice item of clothes I might swap garment there and here but we have to resist to those marketing efforts by our own reflections of investing in our happiness investing in our well-being by purchasing
Some garment I put some money into something a close of an item because I know that it will stay for a long time with me it will have several lives so I am not against um the fact that we’ll go and have some pleasure in buying clothes we are past
That period where we went to hem and went out with three huge bags of cheap clothes this is gone now the quantity has been shifted to Quality what’s important is to be happy with your your piece of item your garment and have a a very long and happy life with your
Closest I hope this feeds into your reflection yes we do work on our mindsets we do need to work on our conscience we need to raise awareness about this topic because psychologically psychologically these are compulsive purchases that are that trigger immediate Pleasures which disappears practically instantly instant
A few instances later sorry we didn’t know do need to include the psychological Dimension into our Behavior we do have a great concept by a shakt the launch concept and they call it the consumer actor meaning that each of us as a consumer we need to become an actor to to reflect on
Our Behavior and not do things impulsively and there are a wide array of methods today the online shopping make makes it even more difficult however you should never validate your your purchase on the spot leave it for some time or overnight and and then go back to it
And see if you really need to buy everything that you have put in your basket and that’s how you can really become an actor you can really drive your purchases and not um be the victim of compulsive purchase thank you I was looking up on other methods of being
More choosing perhaps we should choose more basic and neutral Clauses and there there might be a risk of of having clothes that are dull and not fashionable anymore I don’t think so thank you because I’m a teacher in in the fashion industry and in at schools something we need to know is that
Tomorrow’s Fashion will be hybrids we have today there are engineers researchers that are inventing new material new textiles that will have a lesser impact on the planet we often hear that you should only buy linen or wool and then you will lose on the variety and on the beauty of
Fascists but today we are working on Leathers from from fish or stencils or new materials this is a new area we are really in a transition we often talk about the transition for the food industry but here in the Garment industry we are in this transition held by new technology discoveries progress
And too many Tomorrow’s Fashion is hybrid so it will not be dull don’t worry about it you can mix so many take Stars some old natural high-tech they start I’m very optimistic I love clothing and I’m sure that we will invent more skills in the textile industry in the future
However we will need to mainstream some items uh learn skills that we had lost in the past and something that is important is to is education and the very last question before we close the conference it’s an online question secondhand is a new revenue for everyone do you see
There a risk in transparency can you repeat it yes the second hand provides an opportunity to earn money but isn’t there a risk like into for fast fashion to have to lose transparency and to have to go against the environment indeed ideally we should labelize second hand
And to have a better tracking of second-hand Goods that will be ideal in Social economy we have local shops so it’s quite easy to track what what kind of closes comes in wallonia it’s very close it’s local however I do also see that sometimes we purchase stocks of
Second-hand clothes and we do not know where they come from these clauses and that’s adds some risks for instance today we still do ship second-hand closest to Africa it is sorted there what they don’t need ends up in piles of waste and the problem is that after it is again shipped back to
European secondhand and thrift stores or American Thrift stores and that’s a problem so the kill the profession of adding value to garments this is a real real skills we need to do it here and not delegate it to African countries for them to send it
Back to us but uh at this stage it is not regulated we it is not liberalized sourcing and resourcing need to be more um liabilized we need to be able to say our second hand Clauses are sold from local places that would be ideal if you could
Say that but at this stage it’s not possible thank you so much Sandrine this is the end of the conference don’t hesitate to go and see our two exhibitions I hope you enjoyed this session and I look forward to see you soon thank you very much