A complete review & recap on the happenings during Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter Womenswear 2024 (FW24 / FW2024). Including reviews of runway shows and collections by brands such as Alexander McQueen (Sean McGirr), Balenciaga (Demna Gvasalia) & Givenchy. Join the stream to chip in and add your thoughts on the brands and their fashion runway shows.
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The changing of the guard at McQueen began with a woman wrapped in shiny black laminated jersey, with one arm pinioned across her breast, the other tucked inside the skirt. Seán McGirr said he’d been inspired by looking at The Birds, Lee McQueen’s spring ’95 collection, in which he’d encased a model in transparent pallet tape. “This sort of idea of a compressed silhouette actually anchors the whole collection,” the 35-year-old newbie in the hot seat was saying before the show. “So I was trying to kind of bring that forward, bring that message forward, bring those silhouettes and see what I could do with real clothes.” The venue—a disused railway shed on the outskirts of Paris—echoed the rawness of the original venue, a derelict rave warehouse in London’s Kings Cross where McQueen had shown The Birds. McGirr has big shoes to fill, though he wasn’t showing any signs of nerves. His instinct for interpreting the brand, he said, is that “it should have sort of playful aggression to it, and should be kind of uplifting, because I want to bring a kind of lightness to McQueen.” McGirr said he’s not had a chance to delve into the archives yet (he only started on Dec 1st last year), but had taken his initial cues from looking at runway photos, mixed with paparazzi pictures of Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse. What he took from them, to set his tone, was more the vibe than literal references. “It’s a man or woman who are hedonistic characters,” he said. “In a way it was like, these sort of people who modeled for McQueen in the ’90s, they kind of looked like people on the fringes. Outsiders. I’m really interested in that. So I guess it’s about singular characters with really strong personalities that I’d be very curious to meet on the street in London; this sort of rough glamour of the East End. This idea of sort of damaged opulence. And I also like this kind of bitchy intelligence that kind of comes through a little bit in the attitude of the boys and girls.”
As well as the idea of constriction—the binding McGirr lashed around skinny-legged jeans and as belts on sinister broad-shouldered men’s leather coats—there was what was about to break loose from it. “This animal within; some of it feels quite visceral,” he said. There were explosions of fur-like knitwear bursting from under tailoring and from the seams of jeans. Later there were animal prints, one in the form of what looked like several cut-up animal-spot sweaters, as if the model had draped himself in a DIY punk version of animal skins. McGirr likes the idea of cutting up, customizing, repurposing found objects, smashing things up. One of his party dress embroideries was inspired by the shattered screen of a cell phone—his comment on social media. “It’s like this gesture of throwing your phone away,” he said. McGirr is not on Instagram; maybe a bellwether of a generation that’s rebelling in its own way. The McQueen-isms, of course, were present in McGirr’s jet-beaded pants suits and substantial tailored coats. First impressions were that there was less of the McQueen red carpet spectacular in evidence, and more of the street and club wear that wasn’t there before McGirr arrived. That may or may not be his mission at the brand, but at any first outing of a creative director—especially those who’ve not worked in the public eye—it’s impossible to get an instant read on who they are, or who they might become with time. McGirr did send a couple of clues, though. Both were about his Irish Dubliner identity. One was on the feet—hefty boots were encased in horse-hooves, one with a horse-tail switching from the heel. McGirr explained in an earlier interview that they were inspired by the horse-keeping Travelers of his home town. And one was in the air: as Enya’s “Orinoco Flow (Sail Away)” played at the finale, McGirr brought the house down with laughter and a spontaneous guest singing along. It broke the ice, and you saw that, maybe, this was a chink of light McGirr was promising. – VIA VOGUE RUNWAY, WRITTEN BY SARAH MOWER
Okay this should be cool we should be all up and running now and time for a great stream let me just see if we’re running on all the different platforms okay it’s all good it’s all good okay so today is kind of different I’m streaming on Twitch for the first time
So I actually realized how to stream to Twitch and YouTube at the same time so that’s what I’m doing today that’s why I’m like trying to you know figure the stuff out ah Mikey just picked up some new Runway pieces what pieces you need to do a show and tell on your Channel
We need to see what you’re working on bonjo Leo how you doing Leo was it this live stream that you said you wanted to join I can’t remember was it this one because if you want to join you have to um DM me on Instagram and I’ll
Send you the link but yeah I have especially the McQueen show I have a lot to say gez um so yeah that’ll be interesting in the Years conspiracy theories this what it’s like being British exactly what it’s like good evening good evening people I kind of love these live streams it’s
Kind of like a really fun vibe because it tends to not all the same people but it tends to be like the same community of people that just want to watch the lives and I think everyone else just watches the live streams back um so it’s
Really cool like I see the same names over and over again it’s like a cool little Community we’ve got going on here in the in the live streams yeah people don’t actually tune into live streams it’s really weird but loads of people watch it once the live
Stream is over and it’s been posted it’s so strange I I don’t understand it um so yeah the the Liams are like a really cool tight-knit Community it’s really cool yeah exactly usually around like a 100 people but if you go into the YouTube and the live stream tab you can
See like the views on my live stream so you see that like loads of people watch it once it’s been posted I just feel like it catches people off guard I don’t mind either way I love doing the live streams it’s really fun and I like the ability to be
Able to go back and forth with the audience um and sort of share opinions like I give my opinion and then they like you guys the audience give your opinion in real time it’s really fun it’s like something completely different to me just making a video and then just like putting it out
There patter making at work while watching first time I finally joined on time hey welcome to the stream you’re right on time he’s a hardworking bloke I mean it’s going to be a long stream we’re talking about three brands it might be like 2 to three hours long
Um so I would say grab some snacks get your Uber Eats popping you know get the get the the frying pan hot I just happen to be chilling right place right time yeah I guess so I guess so I think I don’t I deliberately don’t over promote my live streams also because I
Don’t want to um like the whole thing with my channel is just like if you want to watch it watch it I’m not going to like force people shove it down people’s throats like what’s my live stream tune in to my Liv stream that’s especially because I
Know like people watch it back after anyway um so yeah M&M’s or popcorn oh I’d say popcorn I’m more of a popcorn guy I’m not really like I don’t eat a lot of chocolate if I eat like really bad stuff it’s normally sweets like Skittles um but I’m not like a big
Chocolate person so yeah I would say go for the go for the popcorn once I upgrade to live streaming best believe I’m shoving it down throats okay so we’re going to chat for 30 more seconds and then we’re going to jump straight into the Alexander McQueen
Show which I have a lot to talk about when ites comes to the McQueen show a tiny bit positive and the rest of it not so positive um but we’ll see how this goes can you pause for three minutes while it’s in the microwave oh my
God McQueen I have things to say yeah Leo you didn’t answer my question is this the one that you wanted to uh um jump on or is this not the one you wanted to jump on can’t remember I really can’t remember price fashion we because like fried my
Brain oh I deserve so Hanan only comes on when I ask him to come on and I normally forget because I’m doing so many things so he’s not on the live stream now because I just didn’t even tell him about it or ask him to be on it um so yeah that’s why
Um but on that note I think uh yeah let’s talk about Alexander McQueen because I think that Alexander McQueen was most definitely the most anticipated show of the whole of pis Fashion Week and I can’t actually remember the last time I’ve said that um so it’s kind of
Good in many different ways now for many of you that know this was Shawn McGee’s debut collection at Alexander McQueen of course Alexander McQueen unfortunately took his life in 2010 and Sarah Burton took over from Alexander McQueen she was someone that was part of Lee Alexander McQueen’s design team when he was alive
So it was kind of just it made so much sense for her to take over and since she’s taken over she’s kind of kept the not the exact same level but a high level of tailoring she’s explored a lot of McQueen’s ideas but I would say that Sarah Burton’s vision of McQueen was
More commercial and it’s less angry when I think of Alexander McQueen’s work I always think of themes of like rage and anger and disdain with a lot of historical events and you know wanting to show that fashion is not just about everything being fine and dandy but also
Life is very toxic and people are toxic and Alexander McQueen explored those themes I think Sarah Burton was a big move away from that and being a bit more neutral um and so obviously I think that Shawn mcgear had massive shoes to fill considering that he is the first
Creative director that has no direct connection to Alexander McQueen uh compared to Sarah Burton who literally worked under Alexander McQueen for many years and then took over the brand so it was very interesting and I was really interested to see what would happen I remember when there was speculation
Around who would replace Sarah Burton when she had her final show um I remember thinking that the best person in my mind was just Gareth Pew because when I think of like expert tailoring and like silhouette and innovation in that sense gath Pew is like the only name that comes to mind
Especially if we’re talking like a British perspective um but of course sha mcge was announced and here we are talking about his debut collection at Alexander McQueen now before I go into it one thing I will say is that I don’t think Shawn mcgear could have won regardless
Of what Shawn mcgear did I mean sha m is someone that has obviously worked in fashion for a while now he’s worked at Brands like uniclo most recently he worked at um JW Anderson where he was designing the men’s wear and yeah I just feel like if he referenced Alexander McQueen too much
People would say oh you’re just rehashing Alexander McQueen’s work if he went a different angle and you know referen himself people would be like oh this is far move from mqueen and then if he used a lot of his influence working at JW Anderson people would be like oh
My God this looks like a JW Anderson collection which was one of the criticisms I did see about his collection um online so I think that he could never win I don’t think there’ll ever be another Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen is literally one of the greatest designers of all time at
Least in my opinion and certainly one of the most skilled designers of all time because some of the greatest designer designers of all time that we think about people like chrisen Dior for example chrisen Dior was not someone that was necessarily very skilled with his hands and handcrafting things but
He’s someone that had really really good ideas and had a way of you know getting a team to kind of bring his vision to life Alexander McQueen is one of those like designers that literally could do it all I mean this is a designer that was saval trained this is a designer
That was making patterns at Romeo giggly like this is craft top-notch top level and so no one will compare to that unless you’re someone that has built your own legacy with your own brand like a Rick Owens I don’t think any designer that is the creative director of the
Brand ever live up to you know the name that is leeander Lee Alexander McQueen so I think he was already fighting a losing battle from the start um so I did want to start by saying that because I genuinely think that no matter what he
Did I don’t think it would have met most people’s expectations regardless so let’s see if we can uh we can get the show on the screen and kind of check through what was going on in the show so actually one thing I actually thought of um with this show the set was
Kind of interesting the set was this kind of like a banded train station which was kind of weird cuz I twisted my ankle I was actually at this show and I twisted my ankle walking to my seat because I didn’t see the the train track um so I like you can see the
Train track on the edge so I literally twisted my ankle on the way and I was like looking around to make sure that no one saw my blunder and I was like I hope the models don’t like misw walk and twist their ankles but there’s enough space um so
Yeah kind of General themes from this collection before we talk about the references because what we do for guys that are new to the stream we watch the shows twice so the first time is just me talking about the show generally and then the second time is me actually
Going into each look and then we’ll look at it on Vogue Runway and everything else right so in a general sense there were a lot of things that sha mcgear said in interviews that I don’t necessarily think made sense um so in a lot of the preview interviews and a lot
Of the interviews that he did with Vogue he was talking about him wanting to usher in this sort of joyful and more cheerful idea of what McQueen is which I thought didn’t make any sense considering that McQueen is not cheerful that is not the the energy that McQueen
Is McQueen is about tailoring first of first and foremost and secondly it’s about anger and it’s actually about rage and it’s actually about McQueen a lot of his themes he was talking about you know historical things that have happened if we’re talking about Highland award um things like that or even the different
Themes that he was looking at in his work one of my favorite collections I always talk about is number 13 right and not because of the stunt at the end I think that number 13 was all about you know body positivity and you know talking about it
Almost like a commentary of just the way women are seen in society and that also there was a similar idea of that invos where invos in the finale you have this like woman who’s traditionally overweight and that in society is not seen as attractive right and then you
Also have MS that emerge from the smashing glass and Ms are seen as like ugly versions of butterflies and it’s almost like seeing the beauty and Imperfections and really who decides what things are beautiful this is McQueen these are the themes that McQueen tackles so for sha mcgear to say
Oh Alexander McQueen was this like really cheerful person to me actually didn’t make any sense because Alexander McQueen was not cheerful and it’s fine that he wasn’t cheerful he’s someone that you know had a lot of trauma through his life whether he was bullied um you know growing up in South London
And fun fact actually Alexander McQueen grew up where I grew up in leim and London so I have a very good understanding of the kind of homophobia uh he would have gone through growing up and so that’s kind of where the rage starts to come from so to kind
Of try to readdition McQueen’s life and be like Oh McQueen was this the really cheerful guy and we’re trying to create a cheerful vision of McQueen I think didn’t make sense and I think that disjointed kind of reflected in the collection in terms of not truly understanding the
Essence of what Alexander McQueen stood for or what Lee Alexander McQueen and his brand is um if that makes sense what I’m going to do is I’m going to quickly invite son of a guns because I know son of a guns wants to join the live um and then I’m going to continue
My ti raade but in the meantime what do you guys what did you guys think generally of the collection Gan says damn I’m late uh mgear own old work was basic and photography as well Bland as hell so not surprised oh that’s harsh uh the show is
Giving I have no idea what I’m doing I hope this works energy that’s a harsh way to say it but I kind of understand the sentiment because from the interviews once again I started to get this sense that there wasn’t a true understanding of what Alexander McQueen
Stood for and that’s why the collection in my opinion ended up looking disjointed um so for example in the preview one of the big Inspirations he cited was um he looked at Alexander Queen spring summer 1995 collection which obviously is the Birds collection very famous uh it’s inspired the name is
Inspired by you know the alfri the Alfred Hitchcock film I can’t even speak um from 1963 you guys will notice that film where they’re kind of these people in this town in California and these like really violent um Birds just attack everyone basically um that was kind of
Like one of the inspiration points for that collection and Shawn mcgear when Shawn mcgear in interviews was talking about the Alexander McQueen shows that he enjoys it almost seemed like someone who grew up loving McQueen kind of like me too and kind of wanting to push all those references all into
One collection all at once and so it ended up being sort of like a mismatch of when I was younger I really loved Voss but then I also loved uh the birds and so I kind of wanted to incorporate the birds but then also Voss and then
Also you know like Jack the Ripper STS as victims and also and it was just it’s just wasn’t cohesive at all it’s just all these different ideas smashing each other in the face essentially one thing I will say though being at the show I really loved the
Soundtrack I remember when uh bust the Ryme started playing I literally wanted to start dancing so I’d say that and I think overall what kind of sha mcgear was looking for this collection cuz in interviews sha mcgear was talking about how he was really looking at McQueen’s earlier work and he
Got the sense that in Alexander McQueen’s earlier work it was more Alexander McQueen being inspired by you know the rawness of London and you know growing up in the Southeast and that was also a theme that um sha mcgear was looking at and something that I thought was really interesting and I really
Agreed with in Kathy hen’s review she said that it looked like a mismatch of London’s cool kids which I kind of got the sense of that it almost reminds me of for guys that don’t know cuz once again I grew up in Lam that’s where Alexander McQueen was literally born I
Was born there too and he grew up there so close to lewisham is’s a place called Bramley I actually used to go shopping in Bromley all the time um in Bromley High Street I don’t know if it still exists anymore because retail is just like dying I don’t know how many of the
Shops are still there but when I was younger I used to go to like Top Shop and like sports direct and stuff and you could walk there from leam it’s like a 1 hour maybe 10 minute walk from Lan and one of the biggest groups to come out of
Bromley of course is the Bromley contingent these were a group of artists who were heavily inspired by The Sex Pistols and they loved the sex pistols and so they made their group that became a massive Punk group in their own right um suie Sue obviously one of the members
Is someone that is like really famous and almost made her own solo career even when the Bromley contingent sort of like died off and so when I see this sort of inspired by the southeast end London cool kids it just literally reminds me of the Bromley contingent and actually
Some of the looks on the runway in this collection I’ve literally seen suie Sue dressed that way um so that was literally one of the first things that came to my mind see if son of the gun is is is in the background what he said I don’t think these
Designers actually follow the theme they just throw it all together I guess you’re saying yeah cool kids and McQueen don’t match it was not his aim exactly what I was saying earlier about it seemed like there was a lack of understanding of really what Alexander McQueen stood for because kind of
Associating um McQueen’s work with cool kids of London and this sort of like DIY sort of aesthetic is almost akin to the punk movement which McQueen is not punk I understand why people can sort of associate his work with Punk but it’s not really Punk is it um it just isn’t
So and once again like at the core of what McQueen did it was tailoring it wasn’t DIY like nothing McQueen did was very you know Art School sort of DIY looking this is someone that was saval Road trained this is not some like amateur just making clothes oh I love Vivan westw because
The YouTube video includes the real music yeah but they can’t include the real music of course because of YouTube copyright um otherwise they won’t even be able to um you know upload it because it just won’t even be pushed by YouTube so I understand why they have to change
The the music um which is something that I did appreciate being at the show actually here says uh the McQueen woman is the tragic heroine a scorned woman the ghost of a prostitute wailing down a streets of the Victorian east end this is just the bastardization of everything
He did yeah the McQueen woman is angry the McQueen woman has rage the McQueen woman is powerful the McQueen woman is also refined and appreciates tailoring and I think something that was missing in this collection because there were a lot of McQueen references is like loads
Um even like the last looks we’ll get into it when we rewatch The Collection the molded pieces those were inspired by the molded pieces that McQueen did in Spring Summer 2005 and I remember Sara MOA did it again in 2011 I think where she had sort of something similar but
She hers had floral prints on it whereas McQueen’s one was um had like the horses and even the horse tail which ties into this collection too because those um shoes um the sort of hoof horse heels that I actually did like in this collection were inspired by that spring
Summer 2005 look and also sha mcgeer’s um Heritage and just Horsemen and Island so that was kind of interesting to tie all of that together um but I still think that yeah a lot of the the references didn’t have the essence of McQueen even down to like one of the
References I remember was this silhouette you know the circular shape around the neck that sha mcgear had in this collection in knitwear McQueen did that in I think spring summer 1997 but the thing about Alexander McQueen because he was so good at tailoring and everything he did was
About you know transforming shape around a woman’s body it would not fit that badly or it would not be so wide fitting or just loose fitting a lot of what McQueen did was about crafting around a woman’s body and I think especially in the knitwear section of this collection
We were lacking that craft around the body that McQueen is so known for um so that was something that I think was 100% missing in this collection hello hello what’s up how you doing I’m good great to see you back yeah girl um I you know ones today so I had to
Join before I before I continue going uh deep into it cuz it’s about to these were the last looks anyway what did you think generally of uh sha M Gear’s debut at McQueen uh you unfortunately I am well fortunately I am a McQueen purist so unfortunately for him I didn’t like the
Show um it was a bit all over the place as far as like references and and what he wants to pinpoint where he wants to go for the brand and you it’s that’s hard to tell from a first collection but it was I I’m not I wasn’t sure just from
Just from you know the direct the general direction right right yeah I think there’s also this um cuz people are having this conversation online of like who do we have patience for and who do we not because obviously a conversation we have now is like designers not lasting at houses like we
Saw uh rigi at Bal last for a few seasons we saw like lud at and D for like literally one season now we’ve seen like water at blue marine after one season like go so it’s kind of like is it just that fashion doesn’t have patience anymore we don’t allow
Designers to develop um so what’s the what’s the situation with that or what are your thoughts on that I it’s like it’s kind of like goes hand inand with social media and and the way that everything runs more quickly and the way the new cycle just is more quickly these
Days and I guess it’s the same thing with um patients and um you know new hires at you know at new houses you know people want to move on if it’s not if it doesn’t look like it’s going to work right right yeah I think also one of my big
Issues with this collection okay it’s still playing is that what McQueen did like McQueen was so much about craft like McQueen would go so out of his way to create things um like something I always bring up is like Amy Mullins when he made those like prosthetic legs in
Number 13 those like wooden prosthetic legs how he went out of his way to work with someone that makes pathetic legs and also WS like carsman just to make those pieces and they look so good that people didn’t even know they were prosthetic legs people literally thought they were like
Shoes that is the level of craft and like attention to detail McQueen did so in this in this uh on the set there like these foam these circular like foam things that we were all sitting on and that’s supposed to be inspired by like hay stacks um which makes sense because
Obviously sha McGee in the show notes was talking about how this was all about like this animalistic like channeling this animalistic energy but I thought why is it foam there’s nothing about the set that really channels the animalistic energy really right so why not just have like
Real hay and then try to find a way to make it you know something that people can and that’s what I mean that’s where we start to lack like the attention to detail because if Alex if Alexander McQueen was alive today you know it would be like that right idea that was
The M I’m sorry that was the main thing for me that was missing in the show is McQueen came with a a rawness to his work you know it it may not especially in the beginning it may not have been perfect but it was extremely raw in his
Emotion and what he was trying to convey and I think that um when you were talking about craftsmanship in this new collection the only places I saw it was those three last looks and maybe the shoes yeah but I did I did like the first look to be honest I did actually
Like that first it was very promising it it was promising and after that it would just yeah was like after that it was like oh no not getting invited next year after this live I’m just I just I’m just commenting on what I’m seeing if that means they
Take my seat away I don’t mind my job is not to um you know say nice things just so I can get a seat next season that’s not why I’m here I was actually surprised um what what you when you mentioned the music was different for the show because I’ve
Been to me the best thing about the show was the soundtrack I’ve been replaying the soundtrack all week um yeah the soundtrack was amazing it was so good did did they play the Inya songs and um or was it just uh for the YouTube version oh no no no they played those
And then they play it was actually really random cuz then they also had like Buster Rhymes and it was like almost like all the genres of music all in one I was like trying to figure out if there’s any like symbolism behind it right it it it almost the bust the ROM stuff
It was almost a bit contrived like trying to go dark you know because I love that song and but no but see this is what confused me about this collection too because if you look at the way the models are walking they’re kind of almost some of them are
Like looking down and like challenging this sort of angry energy but then in interview sha mcgear said he wanted to make it more cheerful so it’s like almost what are you that’s why I say it’s so disjointed it’s like you’re saying that the collection is um and let
Me actually whip up the show notes to say exactly what it says so it says a rough opulence revealing the animal within a compressed and elongated silhouette objects embedded and enveloped or enveloped in this case knitted uh statuary so if you’re talking about rough opulence so that’s already
Rough you’re talking about revealing the animal within the set does not really give me that energy it looks like a brutalist abandoned um set you should have taken us to a farmland or a farmyard with Hay all over the set like I don’t it’s so disjointed it it feels like a million
Ideas into one like kind of what person like no story no point of view basically um and I did like a lot of individual pieces like you said the Footwear the horse Footwear like those heels I really like those um there are some interesting pieces in this collection that were
Inspired by I think one uh I think vest was inspired by um broken iPhone screens so it just looked like broken glass which was neither here nor there in terms of ideas but how it actually looked I really liked that and the craft that went into it I thought was really
Nice and mad at the top the dress I liked but I was mad at the top cuz I you you saw it in person but coming at me on the you know from YouTube I liked it but then as soon as you saw the back it looked looked like it looked
Cheap yeah yeah I can see that and I think once again going back to the craft is that sort of attention to detail like doing it all the way through that was kind of missing which once again not trying to compare him to McQueen because no one’s ever going to be McQueen
But that’s kind of what was lacking but I did also enjoy cuzz one of them was sha mcgeer’s Dad I think was a mechanic and so one of them is actually like broken headlights of a car and applic onto like the dress so that’s why like some of it is like looks
Like normal glass like kind of like a car mirror and then some of it is orange and then some of it is red that was really interesting and I think I think people also said this online and I think if he actually lent into his own personal references and kind of just did
That in a McQueen energy I think this collection would have been amazing because the ideas that where that that kind of came through so with like the horse Hills where it was yes it was a reference to Spring Summer 2005 but it’s also a reference to Irish like um horse
Riders and like horse herders right that’s very interesting um or you know having kind of like oh my dad’s a mechanic and so this is like inspired by like smashed you know car glass and like headlights that’s really cool and I think every time he lent into that the
Looks looked really interesting and it started to create a story but then everything outside of that is where it started to become a bit disjointed in my opinion I I actually thought that dress was really ugly the one that you’re talking the the silver with the orange
And the red I think I think because I saw like i’ I like saw it and then um I saw it again um and like the craft that went into it made it actually really nice that’s fair um I think maybe it’s just one of those things you have to see
Up close but like yeah I think when he lent into that stuff it was like really interesting um the knitwear oh my that is like yeah yeah that is where like yeah you know when people said that it looks like JW Anderson I think that was what they were talking about
Especially these nit where looks which once again it’s a McQueen reference like McQueen did that in spring summer 1997 and for you guys um watching you can go on Vogue Runway and look at the looks I’m talking about but McQueen’s one was tighter to the body and it actually
Looked like something you would want to wear and something that looked very chic for a woman to wear um whereas there it genuinely just looks like I don’t even know what the right adjective to use is without being too harsh stuff I could think I could think of a few uh Stuffy unpractical just yeah bulis it it wasn’t it wasn’t attractive uh it feels like they’re referencing too much from current trends were they referencing current trends I don’t think so some of also product wise I was going to say I also like the like Footwear going back to the Footwear there are
These point oxfords yeah that were on a lot of the looks that was kind of like a really cool way to kind of like transform the oxfords it’s kind of I like it when people take classic shoes and kind of transform it a bit kind of like what
Martin Rose does with like the really super square toe loafers um so that was really cool see this is another knitwear piece I’m just like once again it’s just that is the most UN McQueen piece of knitwear I’ve ever seen on a Runway it doesn’t even look flattering on the models
No literally it doesn’t but then once again Footwear amazing I thought even the show production just didn’t feel like a McQueen show just but that’s because once again I said it was lacking the attention to detail in story because once again if we’re going off the show
Notes and it being about channeling this sort of like animal energy and you know a rough if you say something is rough like a rough opulence things have to be scary things have if you’re like revealing the animal within it has to where’s the rage where’s the no and I
Mean and it’s almost like I don’t know if it’s like designers also because I talk about this with demo and like when he gives interviews and sometimes designers say things that make their work come across like really disjointed in terms of saying that you want to like
Show a version of McQueen that’s you know less angry and more tearful but then in the show notes you’re saying that you’re inspired by a rough opulence those are literally contradictions you’ve quite literally contradicted yourself how did you feel about the casting the the type of models that they
Chose for this new McQueen um it was okay it was cool to see like some of the old uh McQueen models like especially Deborah sha um in the in the show especially but people rightfully so said that for someone as iconic as Deborah Shaw especially in terms of the history
Of McQueen to give her the look that they gave her was a bit off key um someone like Deborah Shaw if you’re going to put her on the runway she’s supposed to get the top look probably like look one and I I thought honestly the show
Was a bit too boring to have her anyway like if you’re gonna have Deborah sha you need to have her doing something besides I know right cuz think of like what we associate like her and like chain and that’s what we associate like Deborah Shaw with so yeah in comparison
It’s just a bit it’s a bit crazy yeah missed opportunity okay those are the pieces with like the glass well that’s the iPhone screen uh piece coming through now I wouldn’t be surprised if top talent left with Sarah baton so I heard that a lot of the team stayed actually I
Heard that most of the team stayed this Bo this look bothered me because the the way the model is holding her chest I did I didn’t understand what the purpose of that was the dress is is is nothing that you haven’t seen before so I didn’t understand the purpose of
Her doing that yeah a lot of the models were also doing like even back to the gesture in look one which also was in McQueen reference but it’s also like I think when you reference things I just think it has to make sense so what about
That gesture makes sense in terms of the story of the collection we don’t know because the collection doesn’t really have a cohesive story it’s in a way just product like different looks that are trying to tell different stories and different ideas and referencing different things um so yeah it’s just
Like there’s no real point of it it doesn’t really add anything in terms of like a theme to The Collection that looks like Rick Owens that that look looks like Rick Owens right there that’s true that’s true Leo says caring please hire me I actually do a brilliant job of make you
Money I think funny enough I think this collection will make money cuz I think the Footwear so good I think that depending on how they do the roll out of the footw I think that there’s a lot of scope for a lot of it to sell the clothes not so
Much the the last look bothered me too watching the show with that when the bag was swinging because the like you said like the gers didn’t have a purpose like why would like that I think he’s trying to channel once again because in the in his interview he said that he wants to
Channel this sort of Southeast London energy um kind of like the East End which is what McQueen’s from and because I grew up there I’m just like what is so East End about swinging your bag or like walking like that I don’t I don’t get it
And I’m someone that was born there and grew up there and I don’t get it so like I don’t even know what the idea with that one was I I’m lost it was it was very empty I I don’t know maybe you know he they need to cast models that can
Sell it better with you know the the vision because it was I I I think the problem too A lot of the models that he casted were new like extremely extremely new so yeah you know it’s hard enough to pull out you know pull off clothes that are you know that
Are good when you’re new you know so no I totally agree and I think I don’t know I just think especially at a McQueen debut like because of who McQueen was and kind of what McQueen stood for this this collection is supposed to scare me it’s supposed to shock me it’s
Supposed to be like you know the early McQueen collections where people are just in absolute shock before like they understand what he was trying to say like five years later like I really expected something it doesn’t have to be in like a in exactly the same way that
McQueen did it he could do it in a way where he’s still referencing his own Heritage and you know doing it that way um but yeah it was just so confusing do you have any as long as long as the bags and she sell caring don’t care about Legacy well I guess so
I mean geez everyone was talking about you know showing that Alexander McQueen video where he was saying that when he dies he wants um the brand to burn which obviously makes sense in theory but the issue with that is alexand McQueen let’s remember ran away from Bernard Aro and
Literally ran to Francois Pino like on his knees to invest in the brand so that he could like not be under Bernard nod’s like control and so frano has invested loads of money into the brand he’s not just going to be like okay Alexander McQueen like Lee isn’t here anymore so
Let’s just get rid of the brand and goodbye to my Millions like that’s not really how business works unfortunately so if in theory I would love for designers to just die with their brand so people don’t like bastardize it and what it means and their legacy however
In a business context is just not really realistic right did you have any uh favorite looks because I know most of the collection was um like I said I like the looks where he was referencing himself so I did like the whole like oh my dad was a
Mechanic so I was inspired by you know the headlights and all that sort of stuff I like this look look one um I really really like that um trying to think of the other looks I really liked I don’t know the the tailoring was not sharp at all which is very off key
Because once again this is Alexander McQueen Mr saval row you could not design a a brand that was made by someone who is known for like having sharp tailoring because it’s informed by interning and having an apprenticeship at saval row and then have Sloppy tailoring it’s just yeah it it’s just
The most UN Queen thing ever um so the tailoring definitely wasn’t there for me that’s one um the footw I thought was actually amazing I love the the first yeah the boots to the hoof Hills the pointy oxfords all of that was like I love that
Um I kind of liked some of the denim which some people didn’t like the denim because they said it was akin to like blue marine it was kind of like almost pushing to Y2K oh um but I liked the the idea in terms of a theme because I’m I
Was trying to kind of build a theme in my head because obviously when I actually went to the show it was really really late because it was like a really super rainy day I almost thought I was going to miss it because um I like
Planned that I was going to go to the show I was like okay I’m going to book my Uber I’m like an hour away and then I tried to book my Uber and it didn’t work so I had to like and it was like on the
Outskirts of Paris I had to walk to a train station and then when I was in the train like in the Metro it just stopped randomly and they were like oh we’re having some like difficulties and I was like there’s no way I’m about to miss this
Show and it was like rainy it was just a shitty day so like everyone came late so even though I was like 30 minutes late I was kind of like 20 minutes early so I was just sat down reading through the show notes and in the show notes which
I’m going to go through when we go through the vog runaway looks um they had a description of like the fabrics and all that of every look and kind of an idea of every look and so I was trying to build a story in my head and
So in terms of the theme of this like animalistic sort of rough opulence type of idea I liked this you know fur you know creeping out of you know Blazers and Tailoring like kind of like this look for example I kind of like that as a theme or this idea of you know
Fur being spliced out of denim that was really cool but unfortunately that was not continued that theme was not continued throughout the collection so then it ended up being disjointed I actually think the look that you um that you that you were talking about the with the fur trimmed
Uh denim that was probably one of the strongest looks if he’s trying to for like a new McQueen it’s an obvious referencing with the grommets and the leather and it was I thought that look was perfect right and so that’s what I mean like I like those looks but once again anyway
That’s for cuz once again I don’t think sea could have won either way um but I think the tailoring was exceptionally like mid um especially for Designing at literally Alexander McQueen um so yeah oh Leo I need to watch the show Studio review I thought that show Studio wouldn’t critique the collection because
Show Studio has such a big relationship with Alexander McQueen I mean they’ve interviewed Alexander McQueen on show studio so many times he’s like literally designed things live on show Studio like they have a long-standing relationship with the brand so I just thought because of that relationship they wouldn’t um
Say anything critical which is why I didn’t even bother to watch the review and not because cuz um I like heti I’m like really good friends with heti um I just thought she would be obligated not to say anything critical well I guess the obligation is to to Lee you know not
Not the brand yeah good point good point and kind of like these kind of cheatah prints too was a way for Sean to kind of bring this animalistic idea but I just think it wasn’t enough and then oh my God these looks I have no idea
What this was these sort of like yeah hoodie curon dresses that was the worst one I have no idea and yeah yeah this with the cheetah I have no idea and that is why people are saying like it looks like sort of like a art project sort of
Thing it looks likey to throw something obviously commercial in the mix yeah this this look was this this was this was a denim I really loved this is what I was like in the theme of The Collection made a lot of sense I really thought that was good
I wonder who um they’re going to get for you know branding purposes like celebrity and and Ray carpet I I wonder how that’s GNA go for them because honestly I see a lot of pieces that even Mak Sense on the red carpet yeah I even think even those last
Looks that sort of like molded p that’s inspired by like spring summer 2005 and like shades of 2011 spring summer kind of also was kind of interesting because once again going back to the fact that his dad was a mechanic and I think they said it was actually made of steel kind
Of like mimicking the chassis of an actual car um and then also the paint was that was used to make it was I think actual car spray paint which is also a reference to going back to number 13 you know the look everyone knows where the model was spinning around and then the
Like stra the spray paint was basically painted on her um that was kind of cool but visually it doesn’t look interesting in the way that McQueen and Sarah Burton did it so if you put all those examples side by side so spring summer 2005 versus spring summer 2011 and then this
One this one looks the least uh visually intriguing but in terms of an idea and you know tying it back into to his dad being a mechanic is actually quite interesting or Leah says I don’t think a job like this requires someone with an extraordinary design Vision or Talent
Just someone who can competently reissue McQueen’s patterns and styles with high octane shows not hard which I guess in a way is what Sarah Burton did although Sarah Burton obviously toned down the the ra and the anger and stuff and I think she it’s kind of fitting of the
Day we’re in that she did that cuz I don’t think McQueen could exist in 2024 I think he would be cancelled before people would have a chance to even understand what he’s trying to say cuz I remember like when he did the bumpers everyone was talking about how he’s like objectifying
Woman which obviously is not what he was trying to do or was not like even the idea of what the bumpers were but obviously it took people time to actually understand what they were but I think in today’s climate I don’t know if he would have been given the same Grace
Because of just how hyper sensitive I think everyone is in today’s climate do you think that he owes um obligation to pay homage to Sarah Burton in his design process I don’t necessarily think so I think he can do what he wants I don’t I don’t even think he had to reference McQueen
At all to be honest I think that okay I think I think that just if you channel the energy of McQueen you don’t have to do the exact same thing and you don’t have to be like here’s my version of what McQueen did 15 years ago um I don’t
Think you even need to do that you can kind of make the brand your own but not be so referential which is kind of going back to like the looks where he was kind of referencing him himself and his Heritage and his family and his history that was very
Interesting and there’s a way of still challenging it and it’s down to like attention to detail like I said with the set kind of where’s the hay where’s the animalistic Vibe where is all of that and even down to the set which would kind of add to kind of bringing that
Energy what the model should be performing especially for a McQueen debut where they should be harassing the audience like they should be scaring scaring people in the audience even like down to like that piece there like the skull sort of LED bag it almost came across like you know
Now a lot of brands have this like filler look that’s made for Tik Tok or like made for social media to you know everyone’s going to have that in the shorts and it’s going to make the rounds it almost seem like what what’s the what’s the the theme of that in what
Is cuz in the show notes let’s go back to the show notes once again rough opulence revealing the animal within where is the idea in an LED skull it’s funny if they did it for that purpose they failed because I don’t think anybody reposted that look yeah I don’t even think anyone
Talked about it to be honest talked about that look at All said where’s the animal or goat I thought the cut of this was pretty was pretty spot- on for McQueen you know even 90s McQueen yeah JW Anderson L xman geez X Rick Rens yeah the back I see what you the more I see obviously I did see it in person but
The more I see the back the more annoying it actually becomes um because yeah it just seems like there’s no consideration to the back probably because most people only see the front which is actually like a copout but then they did it with this look yeah I thought this this dress was was
Pretty fabulous was too it’s pretty no no I I love this dress the silhouette is basic but the you know yeah I love this dress too I know you didn’t like it but I actually I’m a fan of it especially like the idea of it I really like
That I don’t think I liked any of the pieces that had the the mesh under it that that nude mesh right right right right and I think my best way of kind of like concluding the whole collection is like everything that McQueen did was like really deep and like over
Considered and I think nothing about this collection is actually deep is my best way of saying it I think I even have a quote from Kathy horen I think where she said something that I was like oh that’s like quite accurate um see if I can find that quote
And it’s funny cuz I have a LoveHate relationship with Kathy horen because when we get into the Balenciaga section I’m just going to be critiquing her 24/7 because I feel like she’s almost become demna visalia’s personal cheerleader um and she’s critical about every single brand but Balenciaga and
But about demna it’s kind of strange I don’t know when that started but over the past few seasons now it’s kind of seemed to be the case after she walked that runway show it was all over it was over ah sorry it was Vanessa fredman aha
I found the quote okay so uh Vanessa fredman said in the preview Mr mcgear said the first McQueen show he remembered was Voss the spring 2001 collection that featured models trapped in a seethrough sanitarium wearing clothes made from feathers and oyster shells quietly going to Pieces as the
Audience looked on I think when I saw Voss I was like oh he’s really trying to say something Mr mcgear said because obviously McQueen there’s always a message in the close there has to be he was right yet if such a message exists in this collection it was impossible to
Identify maybe next time which is basically what Vanessa fredman said which is like super super accurate that is so accurate because it’s like it’s kind of weird that Shawn mcge is like saying himself that with McQueen there’s always a message in the cloth but at the
Same time what he put on the runway didn’t have a cohesive message it’s like that’s actually insane there’s no way that would have came out of my mouth if if if I would have saw the collection I was about to put out I wouldn’t have said that
Like no way he almost he almost set himself up in a way kind of like what demna does which is why always like say like he says something in interviews and then does the opposite is literally what like sha mcgear did in that interview um yeah that’s crazy he literally set himself
Up even like some of the references like I think he said that um the heels I really like the sort of like horse hoof heels with the horse tail at the back was a reference to McQueen’s like armadillo shoes um which obviously like everyone knows from Plato’s Atlantis and
I was like that doesn’t those those don’t look alike at all the only reference I see is spring summer 2005 clearly because it looks exactly the same as that like molded look because even I think it was Kate Moss actually that had the look where her ponytail was
Made to look like a horse’s tail that is exactly what the shoe looks like it it literally has nothing to do with like Plato’s Atlantis like it literally does not look like that I don’t know if that was just a case of like almost trying to add you
Know sometimes designers go to houses and then they do this thing where it’s like I’m going to show you that I know the references so I’m going to basically mention as many of the shows as as possible but then you end up mentioning shows and I’m like it doesn’t actually look like
That it ends up working against them yeah let me see if I can uh walk those uh those last looks bothered me too um because I I know in those constructed dresses they they have to walk a certain way and I I didn’t it wasn’t even a track especially the last
Model that that walk was crazy that walk was crazy and I I think what he was trying to was trying to do you know that McQueen clothes historically like women have have said that those clothes make you you know your posture differently like you you yeah they make you feel powerful you
Stand upright yeah right right so and those clothes I don’t think any of those clothes did that yeah because even Sarah’s clothes had that had that that form to them oh no 100% And I think Sarah was definitely I think people are critical about Sarah I think most of the
Critique about Sarah was more because she kind of made she took a lot of the emotion out of McQueen but I in my opinion she still kept the craft and she still kept the tailoring and that makes a lot of sense because she was like there when McQueen was there she was
Like in the mix so it makes sense that she would understand how to do that um by I think a lot of people almost felt like she almost Zapped a lot of the soul out of Alexander McQueen’s brand which I kind of agree with in a way um like a
Lot of the emotion was kind of lost but I still think that the clothes were just as good um just maybe the themes around it wasn’t as good with Sarah Burton but I think with here you’re lacking both yeah I I think that you know just with
The way that fashion was going in the 2010s when Sarah was there it was going towards that heavily commercial commercialized look and so if if you remember those first few U Burton collections they were amazing the the Honeycombs and the you know the the visors they they were really spectacular
A little bit void of the emotion still but the clothes were at least extremely thoughtful and considered but I I would do anything to have her back now though anything that that’s what everyone’s saying I’m like wen’t we all critiquing s b I think my critique even if she was still there
Would always be the same kind of like she’s an amazing designer that is skilled enough to keep the craft and level of tailoring that Lee did himself but then in terms of themes storytelling she’s just not there compared to M Queen and that’s not going to change so my
Idea on that is not going to change um but yeah going through to like what they’re saying in the show notes um so look one they’re saying is a distorted drape dress in laminated Jersey um look to is kind of like interesting because they have this like
Pin detailing around the neck um it kind of reminds me of like some of the old uh McQueen collections uh where a lot of models were restricted the only issue is that it’s just like it’s not a chain join to anything it’s just kind of just
A bar on its own I don’t know if that’s a reference to that um like the t- bar chain and then also black trousers in Visos I think I don’t know what it is about fashion and using Visos these days but that’s neither here nor there um you
Have this is one of my this is one of the looks I actually did like once again kind of like this animalistic idea of sort of fur seeping and you know emerging through the tailoring in a way I actually did really love this um so this is obviously a black wall piece and
Uh the sort of fur looking effect thing is moha um which is cool and then they like the ribbing is cotton very very interesting this I didn’t really understand it um but it’s just like all of it is shielding I did like the footw though these were the one
Of the iterations of the horse hoof sort of shoes but this was without the the kind of back the tail at the back so this just has like a zipper so it’s like a more commercial version a less shocking version of the Footwear I need to know who designs Footwear for McQueen
Uh because this collection had some Sensational Footwear um so yeah this is uh once again I I’m not so sure about the waist cinched in with the belts and all that um I don’t know it almost makes the tailoring look worse when actually this piece does look like it like from
The shoulders looks really amazing I like the way the sleeves look I like kind of how it curves down but then past the belt I think it actually just makes it look worse um but yeah these were kind of these sort of rain coats which is kind of fitting considering it was
Raining outside and also something that I also wondered with this show cuz with the show we got these like do a little show and tell we got these like blankets um we’re just like let me see if you can see like McQueen sewn into it and I wonder if they checked the forecast
Beforehand and then made the blankets or if it was a last minute like okay interns all of you are going to have to like sew in McQueen emblems into like blankets last minute that would be chaotic that’s kind of what happens sometimes yeah that would be really really
Chaotic but yeah it’s almost someone said and something I agree with is kind of the way the models pose and the way they are walking kind of this like face down kind of was a kin to Jong gano’s latest Ure collection but then because they’re doing the same gesture but with
Less emotion it just comes across as like not as interesting in a way um so yeah look seven is they’re calling it a quadruple collar in hand knitted wall and a black silk nylon skirt actually the fabric of that skirt does look quite interesting I must say yeah that reminds me of of
Of Market kind of like yeah it reminds you of you know the the material that they used to make those like Market bags which is kind of interesting because once again going back to him saying it’s inspired by the East end this actually is an idea coming from the
East end kind of having this like Market bag sort of you know fabric as a skirt is actually very interesting um and then you have these are the more the less commercial versions of the horse boots so now you have like the horse tail coming out but I I love these shoes I
Honestly really love these shoes I wonder how I thought it was peeled leather the skirt at first I didn’t know it was yeah so that’s like interesting like fabric use wise once again I kind of like this look but it’s kind of like a similar idea and the show notes it says
That it’s um once again W mohare um so basically cotton Jersey same Fabrics as like all the other looks that look similar so moving on look nine is a double breasted tailored coat um made out of wool um and I think it says they have a te- bar chain um something interesting
Actually so here you have these like safety pins these are actually the invites to the show um so once again this is very Punk to have safety pins but we had this conversation earlier I don’t think McQueen was punk I don’t think his philosophy had anything to do with Punk
So I’m not too sure about this idea of having these like Punk motifs and having one of the very big singular ideas of your debut collection being around the safety pin to the point where it was literally the invite I don’t really know about that but I did like kind of like
The silhouette of this piece in terms of tailoring this is one of the pieces that I did uh enjoy the tailoring and then similar just different colors with this look and then you have okay the safety pin is more prominent because it’s in white so the silver against the white comes across a
Bit more prominently okay look 11 this is interesting tbar chain again and then we have trousers in Black Wall mohare um the shirt is a silk nylon and then of course we have these fedora hats um I wonder what it is about this this These Chains once again we have this shirt in
That same sort of nylon sort of silk fabric uh that goes back into this idea of like referencing the East End and kind of like these like Market bag Fabrics I think that’s kind of interesting I don’t know what other people think about that but I think that’s interesting in terms of the
Reference and the theme of The Collection I think that is actually uh quite interesting and then you have these like details here something I didn’t uh I’m kind of pissed off that I didn’t get to do was have a reee um so almost all the shows like people get invited to reee the
Shows and I always say that I prefer to go to Reese’s than the actual runway show because yes it was cool to be at the show and like experience kind of the show firsthand and then also talk to people after the show that being said as
Someone that is always going to do a live stream about it and really talk about the clothing it’s always better to see the stuff up closed because when you’re at the show you can’t really take in the clothes the models walk past and then you’re trying to like try to
Understand the collection all at once and you’re trying to take it all in and it all happens really quickly so going to re the next day and actually being able to see every look and you can fill the fabric and look at it for as long as you want I think is really
Beneficial um so yeah I think I’m also really now that we’re going in into it look by look really trying to see where this animalistic sort of you know idea comes from kind of what he was saying I don’t really get it until you get to the animal prints and obviously
The horse hair shoes but for that to be such a big theme of The Collection especially in the show notes I don’t really I don’t know it didn’t come across yeah I don’t think it did this i’ I’d like the shape of this piece by the way uh this is a piece I
Didn’t talk about um but I did actually like this look because I like the footw I like the the top um in the show notes it says that it’s a jacket with a birdtail back and a leather collar in Black cotton canvas and a te- bar pencil
Skirt in black leather so basically just leather and cotton canvas kind of another one of the models that was able to model four Lee when um he was there yeah yeah bag wise because I didn’t really look into the bags but kind of you have these te- bar necklaces and then the
Clutches are kind of following the same tar um aesthetic I think those will do well actually I think those will do well I think accessories wise and Footwear Wise It’s strong and why that’s very important of course because in the context of caring that’s really actually what matters
Um cuz how many people are going to buy the runway shows this look I think we’re just going to skip that cuz yeah um okay this look is kind of like similar same fabric so you have the cotton canvas top um I actually want to know what fabric
That uh cheetah thing is like printed on so let’s see looke 16 in the show notes it says it’s a okay black faur leopard jard so it’s faux far when I was there at the show I didn’t get the sense cuz you know when something’s faux far you can like
The actual first strand come out to you a bit you couldn’t really tell and because obviously the piece didn’t have a lot of movement because it’s kind of like a a stiff fabric so I couldn’t really tell and then even I’m not that it was fur from you
Two yeah I think maybe the way the angle that you see it app from YouTube versus like where that um makes it a lot easier to see this oh yeah we’re just going to skip these ones yeah yeah this was definitely the worst looking The Collection I do not know what was going
On here just out of curiosity um hoodie and Patch red Bordeaux black beige and brown mohare leopard jard knit and jeans in Black stretch leather yeah no so moving swiftly on these looks yeah I don’t know it’s supposed to be like a single sleeve dress um and it’s in like Visos and I
Like the idea of having a single sleeve dress but execution no unfortunately I feel like these are going to be the the red carpet looks that they pick for promoter no way no way what else do they have no way no way this could have actually been really interesting I think if the
Execution was different cuz this whole like single um sleeve dress or kind of like it reminds me of a piece of clothing like a Pock that uh isak did right where you just have one piece of fabric and you make a whole piece out of it could have been executed a lot better
I like the idea execution not so much this I really loved yeah this is this is one of my favorite looks especially in terms of like the them of this like animalistic understanding and I was talking about these like pointy um oxfords I did like that I like them
Across the collection um but in terms of like what they use it literally is just like denim um with shielding um so yeah but it’s I really like this these pieces I thought this was really interesting I wish he would have expand it more on that idea of that look because they
Potential yeah here we have these gestures again with sort of like the hands in the pockets in that way um I kind of do just the neckline is so off key McQueen would not design something with a neckline that looks like this or S Burton for that
Matter like I like the idea of an aviate sort of this like Aviator sort of jacket going on I like the fabric I like the peeling I even like the color but that neckline is off key it’s so off key from the show notes is that a dress or a skirt
Underneath um pencil skirt that’s skirt okay yeah pencil skirt and black leather this was kind of neither here nor there I kind of like it in terms of the theme of the show like the fabric used um that’s kind of cool cuz this does channel that animalistic and I
Think see this this is what I mean like if these kind of ideas and like the denim we talked about these like horsehair boots kind of were more of a focus in the show I think he would have been on to a winner but I think in context with all
The other stuff we saw like those like one sleeve dresses and things like that that’s where it starts to become a bit all over the place or even that hoodie that I have no idea what that was I feel like that was the like influencer check like check like
Check why would why would influencers want to wear that though it’s like why why if they get it for free they will yeah and then we have okay it’s just this sort of like corset sort of bod sort of thing neither here nor there it could be interesting I think
It would have been more interesting if this was like created into more like a fabric that looks like hay because the way the more I look at it the more I’m like oh you could have turned this into like some sort of like hay idea and kind
Of run with that idea um I think that would have been kind of like cool and interesting but no this was a big no the the knitware for me I just didn’t like any of the n one in the collection if I’m being honest I think the stronger pieces were
Like the coats that weren’t cinched in the waist um the Footwear obviously some of the skirts I like those The Aviator jackets if they didn’t have the weird necklines but the nitw yeah it looks this is where we get into uh JW Anderson because it looks kind of
Caricature which JW Anderson does but it works because JW Anderson makes sort of like surrealist sort of he comes from that perspective of things so in the context of JW Anderson that works but in the context of McQueen which is about Precision in tailoring that looks like costume that
Looks like Wizard of Oz type thing like a mushroom cat yeah and it’s still and it’s still a reference to McQueen like I said but just not executed in the way that it looks McQueen esque these coats tailoring is not Sharp enough it just looks like any coat
Genuinely it’s not yeah so we can just move past that um the since didn’t waste I was not a fan of that at all um this piece was cool especially because of the fabric once again like this whole like East End thing going on um with a sort of like nylon sort of
Fabric um the pin stripe tailoring is off key like if you look here and in person this was something that um even the people that were sat beside me when we saw this look we were like yeah telling is a bit off on that one um yikes this this looks like it wasn’t
Even fitted to the model literally so that’s neither here or there uh yeah Deborah Shaw to put Deborah Shaw in this is like yeah it AES on disrespectful in a way Deborah Shaw is an icon when you talk about House of McQueen and you talk about Deborah Shaw they go hand in hand
You have to put Deborah Shaw in like a showstopper piece not this where once again tailoring not sharp people that know tailoring know this I’m obviously learning more and more as I go with tailoring um and I speak to a lot of tailor uh someone I actually interviewed recently is someone that
Actually interned at s row so he was kind of we did a whole thing about tailoring uh the something really important about tailoring this line here shouldn’t be here if it fits properly it should sit perfectly in your body this indicates that it doesn’t it’s not tailored
Properly um so once again Deborah Shaw didn’t deserve that since D was once again not a fan of those looks the knitwear I think were the train wrecks of the collection I think the the knitwear is 100% the train wreck I don’t even know what the idea I
Don’t I genuinely if you guys know in the comments help me out what is this a reference to that let me get my damn phone I I know uh GW s cenus wore that look with the hood but I can’t remember the collection I need to see if anyone in
The comments knows the collection I need to see the actual reference to see like from the old McQueen show to see kind of what McQueen did cuz I don’t even understand what’s supposed to be going on there um like the Footwear though Footwear Sensational um yeah these Hills are
Amazing and there’s space here which is kind of interesting I wonder if that bit of the shoe is removable because of that space there I was wondering that even with the horse bit from the boots like can removed cuz this could be like a flat leather shoe M and then you can
That if that’s the case that’s so cool and once again this is why I wish I went to the REI because I would actually have the answer to that question but I’m not important enough to be invited and after this review I definitely won’t be invited to the next REI
Um this was kind of we’ve seen this in so many recent shows I think also we’re coming off uh RI ens with the balloon um idea and they almost look exactly the same obviously not saying that anyone copied anyone like collections are made so many like months sometimes in advance um but
I think it’s just like fatigue but I do like this piece in terms of the theme once again like these like splice fur coming out of fabrics I do like that I think he should have um played with that more especially when it came to the tailoring I think that would have made
For a more interesting collection um this sort of like heavy wall with the tall base I think I don’t even know what this was about either it kind of came out of nowhere as well yeah didn’t get those pieces it looks like it’s difficult to make though so craft wise it’s
Interesting um kind of interesting cuz here you have like all the ribbing and then it just goes into this like crazy like war and Shilling sort of thing um the toour is so Random though just the toour attached to it at the bottom is really random I think it
Would be better off without any to to be honest yeah we’ll skip past those looks yeah this is the look with the the Tik Tok look I like to call it with the skull LED bag yeah neither here nor there this I actually want to know what
The fabric of the scyp was cuz I remember um watching a show um ah so Black Crush satin on the top um interesting interesting so the top is visco silk velvet and the skirt is a nylon mesh hm kind of looks like tall to be honest
Yeah These boots were also nice I love them I love those books those boots across the collection like Footwear MH so so good once again I like talking about because once again I don’t know the name of the Footwear designer but it’s good to give them the flowers because creative directors can’t design
Footwear Footwear is actually very Advanced to design and make and obviously they collaborate with the Footwear designers but there’s actually a dedicated Footwear designer that does all these things um and I think they need the credit this that look had no shape it was so un I didn’t get
That’s like an insult to McQueen genuinely um this is like like you said the Rin looks it does look very recurrent like I’m with you on that one um even like just the whole look even down to like these super chunky boots actually this looks more like demo
Balenciaga actually the boot the boots yeah the boots look more demo Balenciaga that’s probably the only foot where I wasn’t too keen on across the whole collection I think everything else was like really good good I really like this piece um and I like the whole look
Actually as one um it’s a silk nylon dress but yeah I think that look was really nice these are the looks I liked I think you didn’t like this one because of the back just because of the back the back ruined yeah I’m with you on the
Back like if you’re going to do the the craft and put this much craft into the piece just do it all the way through um and at the back is just like black lining which yeah doesn’t look great at all um but it’s weird because on some of
The other pieces it was done throughout so I don’t know what that was almost came across like rushed that that dress could be 50 other designers but also in the context of McQueen the fit of it is really off the fit once again tailoring tailoring tailoring tailoring tailoring tailoring off here off off
Tailoring because that’s what McQueen stands for like you can’t say McQueen and not say tailoring those two things come hand in hand um they they looked more like Seline to me yeah this dress I really liked kind of like the smashed iPhone idea I thought
That was really cool um and I think the next look is going to be uh the look I like that you didn’t like I think yeah the tall bit kind of cheapens it if this tall I don’t know why I think obviously that’s just what the inner material
That’s kind of what this is made on I think they could have put it on a fabric that makes it look cuz here and this is where the attention to detail is lacking because I don’t McQueen or Saron wouldn’t do this this like empty space you have to find something to do with
This part of the fabric to make it look more flattering CU it’s just random it’s like the stones kind of stop at the bottom here then they kind of go up here that looks like a huge huge lack of attention to detail like they did it on purpose
Exactly this is another like kind of akin to recoin this fitwise was horrendous um I think this is knitware this is knitted to yeah is knitware once again like I said the knitware pieces just weren’t doing it for me at all that was terrible um terrible uh fabric once again interesting East
End um shapewise I like the tailing but it doesn’t fit correctly but I like the tailoring though especially the shirt this I think these were the last few looks um and the idea is obviously interesting once again sha mge’s dad being a mechanic and sort
Of like it being made out of steel and the chassis and obviously it being painted by the same paint that you would use to paint a car and stuff kind of cool um but side by side against what he’s referencing which is Alexander McQueen spring summer 2005 and what
Sarah buron did in 2011 spring summer it’s not as good as both of those examples um so yeah that’s the that’s the McQueen collection in a nutshell um let’s see what guys are saying in the chat and we’ll move on to xoni cuz I was actually a huge fan of
Xoni and I got to see a REI of that collection which was great um so I actually got to see the the clothes this will be my I didn’t watch I’ve kind of gave up with that house so I I haven’t it you’ll see that it was a
Pleasant surprise okay um yeah because there’s no creative director right so it was like the design team that sort of did it oh okay yeah let me see what everyone’s saying um damna as boost your dresses I’ve definitely seen a 56y old man in the club wearing that black suit and red shirt
Um all these CL going to hit when we find them in thrift stores in 38 years 38 years oh my God Damn egregious wow damn damn damn uh it looked more McQ than McQueen damn that’s harsh but I kind of see what you’re saying there that’s harsh though but damn um I don’t think you get the collection okay can you explain it to me then I’m always open to learning and
Being uh corrected if I’m wrong is in the chat Sean is in the chat I mean I just went through every look and like there were so many looks I did actually like and so many pieces I did like so it’s not like I was like oh
My God this collection is terrible move on and we’ve talked about the references and like and that’s the thing I don’t just say that things are trash without actually explaining why um and it’s not like I even said it was trash cuz I don’t think that I said it was
Disjointed and it didn’t have a that made sense and it wasn’t cohesive um but if there’s anything more for me to understand about the collection I’m open to you correcting me tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock tick says the clock okay I guess we’re not going to
Get a response so um what I wanted to do was uh end this section by um having just that video where McQueen talked about sort of his brand and how he feels about it post him some of these houses should be closed but you know what it comes down
To perfume I know and we’re so brand driven in this yeah but there’s no there’s no what’s it called for it there’s no uh dignity with it I think you know if I if I ever get that old and I’m still around and I leave my company
I like I just burn the place down yeah there’s no one work there really so you never let someone carry on the the M you know McQueen tradition or the McQueen brand if you weren’t actively involved um I don’t think so I mean it does because that person will have to
Come up with the concepts from my show and my shows are so personal how can how can that be I mean and then unless it turns into an awful Runway of non-existence and concept I gonna come that it’s crazy how these people can see the future it’s it’s insane I know it’s
Scary it’s really scary so that’s the McQueen show shout out to the people that are going to watch this long one and a half hour section back have fun um but yeah I think moving on uh we’re going to talk about the xoni collection which was kind of interesting I think it
Wasn’t interesting in a sense that they did anything revolutionary or anything new but because obviously goni now is in a state of limbo they’ve kind of had quite a lot of creative directors um in recent times like Ricardo tii and CLA white Keller and Matthew Williams and
Like that whole thing going on um but this collection is kind of like one of those like interim collections so it was just done by the design team in house and it was really just about going through the archives and really modernizing um Uber Jon’s like
Silhouettes um and I found that kind of interesting because it tended to then be about the craft and when I um went to the goni reesi uh which was kind of kind of cool um I could actually see that there were they thought about like every single detail and it almost made me
Think is Zoni at a place where they should just do this and have a design team that does like more like classic clothing that a lot of women want to wear and will love to wear versus kind of like what Massy Williams did for example it’s looking like that’s the
Answer because five looks in and this is very chic why why is it that you why is it that big houses don’t just operate with a design team like because sometimes it is it turns out to be more successful than you know a creative director at the H I
Think it’s the name thing I think it’s it’s to do with um you need that one name that just cements everything together and can kind of help promote the whole thing or the one name that you can Market singularly it’s hard to Market like a design team as a concept I
Guess do people care anymore about I I I think lowkey were kind of past the days of celebrity designer you know the John Gallos the carogi you know is nobody knows who like unless you work in fashion nobody knows who uh you know I’m trying to pick a name out the air but
Um like Matthew blazy like a regular person doesn’t know work as he does nobody a regular person doesn’t know you know doesn’t know him by name so I think I think some of these brands that I think it would be more cost effective for the brands to not have you
Know a big name just just have the design team do it I don’t uh Leah said J was magic um same with lee yeah but that’s JN galano and Lee though like there’s how many young designers now are as good as like Lee and like can you
Imagine because when I think of uh lee McQueen it’s like this guy literally was a CSM graduate with saval roow tailoring experience and you know pattern making at huge Brands like when when um McQueen was at Romeo giggly it was huge that brand was massive like design students now just don’t have
That kind of experience one or skill too so even if we like oh there’s this like budding designer at CSM they’re not going to do a McQueen or gallano it’s just not I think in general I think people have less respect for actually learning craft I think the way that a
Lot of um designers used to like even when you read about them they had this like sense of like even like Chris Balenciaga he wanted to impress that woman that lived close to him that became his Patron um like you like when you read about the
Way he talks about it like he really wanted to impress her and like she was like I bet you can’t copy this paray dress and he’s like watch me I can make it even better that’s kind of the competitive nature that designers had whereas now it’s just like yeah I’m just
Going to make some hoodies and make millions like just like no one cares that’s missing across all creative Industries though is the the initial passion for what you’re doing you know yeah and if if you just want to do it because it’s it looks cool or you want to sell something like
That’s not the reason to want to be a part of of of of fashion of and of music or you know whatever you know it’s not that’s not the reason yeah this is really this is quite good I like this yeah this is an interesting take I
Think today there’s a bigger gap between veterans and newbies before it wasn’t as deep yeah I kind of I kind of agree and disagree why I say I disagree is when I was at CSM I did see a lot of students that um actually had work that I was
Like wow the only issue is that I don’t think the industry in today’s climate allows for those kind of designers to get a in the industry the way that gallano and McQueen did because gallano and McQueen from their CSM like graduate collections Anna winto is like singing
Their praises and like telling Berard no you need to hire these people that’s not H Anna winto doesn’t even know who the hell is designing at CSM now so she’s not going to tell Bernard or even know who the talented designers are to even be able to tell him okay look at this
Designer it’s just a different climate um so I don’t think there’s necessarily a talent Gap because I saw firsthand Sensational collections from graduate students I think there isn’t that same framework to facilitate um designers going from you know School designing for a few years and then going to a big
House because now like Brands want to hire celebrities and stuff like that so this is a different climate or like famous designers or like bigname designers they’re not like Taking Chances um because they’re playing with 20 million dollar right budg like Revenue figures and they want to it to
Go even higher so the last thing you’ll do is to hire like a no-name designer okay this was a very concise this is true though mccre had to show collections at the same time as YSL KL azadine the bar was high if darar is the future fashion were
[ __ ] Leo you really don’t like delara’s work God damn I don’t really know to I haven’t looked deeply into delar white to like or dislike it to be fair but Leo seems to have like a a thing against theara what did M say I do not see anything wrong with making hoodies if
You think they’re cool honestly I believe it is still participation and fashion yeah I think hoodies are fine I wear hoodies all the time I think I’m more talking about at the highest um Brands so like the in fashion at least the biggest brands used to influence
Where Trends went and they used to create Trends and steer Trends and sort of lead fashion forward and innovate fashion and so now we’re kind of going the other way around where now everyday people are inuencing fashion and then uh luxury brands are just like oh what are
People wearing hoodies okay cool put that on the wrun way it’s like almost the other way around so I mean in that context is what I’m talking about but in terms of like hoodies there’s nothing wrong with hoodies at all I love hoodies I think the lack of opportunity
And companies not taking chances on new Talent is something prevalent in the overall job market even outside of fashion it’s harder than ever to get your foot in the door yeah I kind of feel like that tends to be the case I don’t know why I also do not like how Matthew
Williams T in recent El has L us to believe he is not a talented designer I mean I’ve always liked elix I just didn’t like what he did at xon shei but it still hasn’t changed my opinion necessarily on him as a designer I just think that he can’t make super
Super ultra Chic woman’s wife which is what gon she is which is fine like not every designer can do everything that’s the thing he’s good in the lane that that he he’s in like he has he he has some good ideas but it’s it’s not like Nicholas Gia is not on that
Level oh this is a good point by the way this collection is more focused the Gucci one without the creative director was lost oh yeah that’s so true because um it’s so true cuz the Gucci collection without the creative director it looked like oh yeah it was like a a product
Line it was almost like okay we need to get every single type of product in this collection so there’s every single type of customer seen in this collection it was so random but this is like once again it’s just going back looking at um Joni’s Heritage and after I’m going to
Actually I have some images on my laptop that I’ll show you that I took um from the REI kind of like detail shots just to show some of the details um but no so so interesting so so interesting and I think actually what I loved about this collection the most
Going being able to see the REI is I’m so angry that a lot of fashion brands especially luxury brands have subpar quality but their prices are through the Wazoo I was just looking at ch’s prices because um they came out I think yesterday and one of the dresses it’s
Just like tall and it’s like 26k whoa and so it’s like for all these prices that these brands are charging and the quality is actually going down it was great to actually fill the fabrics and be like okay this feels amazing oh are people talking about the best designers still working right now
Are yoi and John for sure no doubt about it um I think maybe in terms of like mainstream but like I think Olivier thins is like really good but he’s just not as mainstream I guess I think Gareth Pew is definitely on par with like a
Yoji and a Jong galano I just think that I think that Gareth Pew isn’t as famous wellknown promoted I guess um as those designers but I think G Pew I’d put his name there um there’s loads of them to be honest if I have to think about it there are quite a few
Um they’re just not as pushed I think I think Olivia would have been nice at McQueen is but I always root for him at any open spot I I want him to come back to the big house so bad yeah I would love to know know that list
I have to sit down and write it and then like post it somewhere maybe like Community Tab and see what people say the Cher prices were set by the Devil [Laughter] Himself those prices are I don’t even know I think we’re at a point in fashion now where they’re just making prices
Outrageous on purpose and the reason why they’re doing that is so that they steer you into buying the bags and a perfume and all they’re ready to wear does is just sell the dream because it’s so unattainable it makes the cheaper products more I don’t know it makes them more
Desirable in a way because it’s like oh my God I’m buying something that’s part of a world of a brand that sells dresses for like 25k I genuinely think that’s what they’re doing now because a tall dress for 25k is just there’s no world in which that makes sense that makesense
So much sense now that that you said that just to to have the the range be so that that makes so much sense so far away from yeah yeah let me see if I can get these are already like crazy expensive anyway oh yeah 100% I mean chlo was never cheap
Anyway yeah I’m interested to see if um well I I guess it’s not not going to matter with uh the The goni Collection because usually with these collections that get designed by a team they don’t really get any promotion any marketing people just kind of move on from them
True true and that was a really good collection I’m trying to see I might just have to share my whole screen um let’s see okay yeah let me show my whole screen so these are some of the images there’s quite a few but like that was like one of the
Dresses um which if you zoom in it was actually made by like tiny little pins like these like wires so that’s what I mean like you can’t really tell that it’s that when um it’s not up closed but it’s like insane that they’ve created those wires and they’ve used it to create
Texture so like here you can see like they’ve used darker colors to kind of create a shadow um and obviously this not to is like a staple of like uberi he had like knots on a lot of things so they used that as like a motif across
This collection um so this was one of the pieces I was like oh that’s really that’s really nice um yeah that’s another like close-up piece close look oh yeah that was like the back cuz obviously it was like a train to the Dress um and then yeah that’s some more an image
Of the back oh yeah that was like one of the feather dresses that was really interesting um trying to see if I can find cuz I had some favorite pieces like even the the cat thing was really really cool um I think this is it so yeah in one of the
Blazers they had these like cat motifs um and then they also had let me see that was inside of the Blazer no no no that’s on the outside okay yeah yeah so they just have like embroidered eyes um which is a reference to goni and
Like the cat and also even down to the buttons were like oval shaped which is what uh goni used to do um even the lining first of all the lining was really amazing secondly the lining they had they brought back the monogram from the ‘ 70s which is kind of cool to see
Because it kind of looks like retro kind of like vintage in a way um see if I can find an image of that so many images I’m forgetting which one is which how do you um view I don’t know how you view the images bigger but let’s just like fly
Through I say I’m still on Windows I haven’t even moved on yeah I’m I’m like I’m like on Mac but like I’m like new new new Mac so I feel like I don’t know how to do like most of the things I used to do on like Windows um okay yeah this
Is an example of like the 70s monogram um here oh yeah so it was used as it was used as a print but it was also used as the lining of all the pieces too which was a nice touch it’s not offensive either yeah but the way they do it cuz the way
It was styled was so Chic so you would didn’t actually realize that it’s a monogram and obviously what it’s paired with too um is kind of what made it like that um oh yeah this was just like a back detail the a lot of the coats had
This like slit on the back um which you couldn’t see cuz you couldn’t really see the the back um on the runway this was really nice this like feather piece and it was like it was all sequins made with like all sequin so you can see it here um close
Up and like the the amazing thing about these pieces too is they felt just as good as they looked like the Fabrics were actually amazing which I cannot say that for many Brands I just can’t um yeah this was another one of the like coats uh that had like the slit at the
Back let’s see running through yeah so this is like the cat piece um so you’d have to look close to actually realize the cat Motif and then also I didn’t even notice that during the run ra show yeah because it’s it’s kind of like a little DET it’s lovely it
I think this one is this was one of those collections where everything was all about the details and like it’s actually the one that was good that I got to see up close even though I didn’t get to see a lot of the collections up close because this was actually one
Where it’s like oh that was how it was made oh yeah this was like one of the pictures of the lining I got that’s like uh the monogram in one of the Linings of the coats so yeah it was just like all in all like a really really cool
Collection like really just all about craft and just like a return to just the Chic xoni now do they need a creative director to kind of like jazz everything up and then like turn everything on turbo I don’t necessarily know um because inherently with collection being so Chic it makes
It super commercial also um which is kind of what they want no they kind of want stuff to sell I’m hoping um I mean before they even get a new designer that this collection gets some type of movement you know gets yeah great carpet views at
Least for the team because that that was really good I has 11x videos tabs open no you guys are crazy if you if you look closely you can see he has a folder with the exact schematics of how to break into lvmh to take downard you might maybe
Maybe maybe when I repost it you guys can pause and do your analysis and see if there’s any if there’s anything to see YouTube detectives what happened to the person that was going to correct me on the McQueen collection I told you that was shine I’m still waiting for like I’m
Waiting for the feedback like genuinely uh Karen what F star does youon she show maybe why it look so elevated oh interesting I remember they mention I even think when um Matthew Williams was still there they talked about Korean like working alongside him in a certain capacity um so that’s very
Interesting he did a madin m no the thing is that like I don’t like to be in an echo chamber so genuinely if someone has like a critique of like what I’ve said I’m so open to like um listening to what he had to say it’s just that he
Just disappeared he was like you don’t understand the collection I was like okay that’s interesting can you explain it to me and he just didn’t explain it like it’s like oh my God I actually wanted to learn something I think it’s very important for designers to work with stylist oh
Yeah 100% I think a lot of brands that have had like a big Resurgence recently I think a lot of it has to do with the stylist a massive example is Mumu I think mumu’s um return has a lot to do with like L of volov going there and
Styling it and I think literally from the second she got there is literally the same second that it started to become huge again um so I think that’s really important uh this collection is very coherent to the last few efforts of Matthew yeah there were kind of some
Like um the IDE like the big pad the big padlocks with the bags and stuff and on the heels and stuff they were kind of still there um so there was kind of some continuation um from what Matthew Williams was doing at xoni um but just way more Chic way more
Chic but I mean Karina is literally like Madame Madame Chic like she’s like Madame Paris it’s yes I’m so surprised she hasn’t gone on to like be creative director somewhere else you know I know right and she knows I mean gez from like Vogue days like she knows every designer
Every PR like she knows everyone in the industry um so I don’t think I think she could do it she has good taste she’s styled shoots obviously like her magazine and stuff like CR fashion book um she gets everybody to be an NCR book everybody I know I
Know it’s because she knows everyone it’s Karin it’s like but I’m I’m actually a fan of Karin because I just think everything Karin does is just so like it’s always so Chic like even um I went to a perfume store recently and she has this like new perfume line and even
The fragrance notes were so Chic it’s like oh she’s using like basically like weed but then it’s mixed with like burgot and then it smells just like so different it’s like this is so kous very French yeah everything she does is just like on the
Money yeah I really loved her uh her her French Vogue as well that was a a really really really nice era people are still talking about the person running away okay so I think we can it’s fitting to move into the last collection I’m talking about today um which is
Balenciaga the my favorite brand Balenciaga um but yeah before I go into it did you see the show I just watched it like I think yesterday okay what you what did you think about it it it’s it just from the venue alone it reminded me of that show he just did
A few years ago but the the clothes haven’t moved anywhere they they’ve actually gone backwards as far as like design uh you know what I guess what he’s trying to move forward with is not no 4K Balenciaga no 4K wow um so yeah I kind of I kind of agree
With what you said I think like i’ I’m a fan of demna I’ve always been a fan of his work especially the earlier work I think the La Collection was a massive low for me um and when I posted that video a lot of people said that you
Don’t understand DNA’s work which I find hilarious I literally have 10 videos on my channel I counted analyzing his work and all his references and where his references come from however I think that it starts to come to a point where where you can’t just critique
Things and kind of like exist in that system so what I mean by that is recently um Kathy horen and demna velia had a interview I think it’s called rethinking Heritage on YouTube everyone can watch it it’s actually quite interesting um to see like DNA’s thought process on like everything he designed
At Balenciaga I reacted to it on patreon which is just basically me critiquing Kathy horin for like two hours CU I felt like she wasn’t being critical asking the right questions or or just like agreeing with everything demna said even if it didn’t make sense
Um so that was kind of that if you want to watch that join the patreon um but in that interview he talks about the fact that he has this like really good working relationship with the merchandisers at belenciaga but at the same time he feels kind of stifled by
The whole commercial machine um that it creates because the merchandisers will say okay black trousers and black hoodies we need that in the collection because that’s what sells and and he he said that he always grapples with himself and the way he was talking in the interview he was like even like how
Commercial and the whole Commerce of the industry and that’s why I’m always doing a commentary on like consumerism and stuff which he’s done so many times fair enough but the way he was talking I was thinking someone that feels so passionately about consumerism would not be the creative director at Bago
Like people that are you know vegan activists don’t eat meat the same way that because they genuinely believe in like especially the ones that feel strongly about you know animal cruelty or the environment that’s why they will not eat meat regardless of the circumstance they would rather starve so
Demna saying I I’m really at odds and you know I really hate how commercial the industry has been and the industry has gone so commercial and there’s a lack of craft and art and I’m like but you’re still the creative director at valenciaga though so how can you feel
So strongly about that but then still be in a position where you’re designing clothes that basically push that system more in the in the realm of you know fashion going away from Craft it being a lot about hype and you know themes of just consumerism and promoting
Consumerism didn’t really make a lot of sense and I wish that Kathy horen picked him up on that which obviously she won’t because I don’t know she walked at Balenciaga and now she’s interviewing demner and they have a good working relationship now so they’re friends and
She’s not going to do that but it just made for a very not an interesting interview at least for me because it just ended up demna saying everything that he always says and like no one really asked the right questions about it or says okay but how can you feel strongly and then
Still be at penaga then right and then he says all that and then he has the labels and the tags poking out of out of these looks right right and it’s funny because um I even think in this collection he said it was uh inspired by sort of this theme of
What luxury is in the modern day and sort of like a comment on what modern luxury is which anytime he does those themes he interest things come out of it but then the critique of mind will always be one you’ve done this idea T zillion times secondly it’s
Like it’s just like okay it’s a commentary on capitalism and consumerism and modern day luxury okay like for example he has this thing in the show notes where he calls it like the new suit which is basically a hoodie and a matching pant and his whole thing is like saying
This is a modern suit now this is what back in the day everyone used to wear Suits now everyone is wearing like sweatpants and hoodies you do that like every collection exactly so I feel like what he does and this is why um fair enough how he’s able to convince his
Fans that his ideas are actually developing because he kind of reframes what he does but it’s actually the same ideas and same looks and the same tailoring and styled the same way too and then the only time we ever get anything new the only thing that I’ve
Seen new in this collection are those um those drape dresses that look like they’ve been like smashed or pressed yeah I do I like those but other than that this is this this could have been from four years ago and it’s just so that’s kind of the
Idea everything is like a commentary on that so even even there were these looks that were kind of like these backpacks or like nylon gym bags or like even like dust bags kind of upcycled into different pieces which once again is a commentary on like modern day luxury
Like kind of like these are the dust bags that you would normally get when you buy an expensive Balenciaga bag or Footwear and now we’re going to transform this into you know a dress as a commentary on what modern day luxury means in today’s society which it’s an
Interesting idea but he’s done it so many times and normally I don’t have an issue with uh designers you know repeating ideas like Rick ens does it all the time Yoji Yamoto does it all the time however what they’re repeating are actually quite more interesting ideas and interesting Silhouettes it’s one thing
For Yodi to create a whole silhouette of tailoring and then keep doing it it’s another thing to just get drawrings and then turn into dresses or like have like oversized hoodies and then do that season after season after season like they’re two completely different things one is having like a
Recognizable um silhouette regardless of what you do like Rick ens has such a recognizable way of doing things that he could design gloves and I would no it’s Rens he could literally design socks I’ll be like oh those Rick Soxs yeah I put high class trip pants on the runway oh my
God his his inability to to move forward past this anti-consumerism anti- fasion thing is it’s it’s boring at this point but he’s at odds with himself though which is really strange because like once again I implore everyone to watch that interview with Kathy horen he is literally at odds with himself because
He’s literally saying that I have an issue with the capitalism of fashion and I have an issue with the way the fashion system functions and I have an issue with the way things are done in the industry and then you know he critiques it um wouldn’t you say demna does it
Because he he’s critiquing the industry from the inside using his position to make a commentary that’s a good point but then is um Balenciaga the right platform to do that because even a lot of stuff that he’s doing is basically what he did at vet is just a different
Name um because even this whole idea of like you know a commentary on capitalism and consumerism like I said he’s been doing it forever since vet m is having these like flips on Ultra capitalist logos of companies in this collection he did um a thing on eBay because the
Invites were this sort of like eBay thing and um that was actually really cool I think what demna does also is like World building I think he’s Sensational at World building I think he’s actually the best um at World building like the invites the shows the sets is always interesting I think this
Set once again going back to like modern day and like a commentary your modern day the set kind of started with kind of like really nice landscapes and then as time progresses AI sort of like degenerates these Landscapes into kind of what you’re seeing now which is just
Like a mismash of just like crazy things and like different things that you see online and it’s kind of a reference to uh the chaoticness of online and kind of like social media and the fact that kind of like random and crazy things are pushed to us constantly and
We kind of have overc consumption of just like information in the modern day that’s kind of a cool idea and it’s kind of like a cool way to weave that into the set and I think demna has always done good sets I I yeah I don’t think
His sets are ever really weak apart from the erow one thing because it was literally just Hollywood and that was kind of just vapid but outside of that I think he’s always been good at that but in terms of the close it’s just yeah more of the
Same at this point us waiting for evolution from demna you might as well it ain’t gonna happen and like his fans will tell you oh but like he had these really cool visor sunglasses and he had these like cuz in this collection there are these beanies that everyone was talking about
Where they cover your eyes but you can still see through them which uh everyone was talking about which is kind of cool like those beanies there for example which is kind of cool um he also had like really where would you wear that I know but if you wear that in the
Wrong neighborhood people they’re gonna literally Bop you upside of The Head Take Your Balenciaga you can’t you can’t wear wear for real yeah um and then um he had these like you know I don’t even want to be too mean but let me just let me just say it let me just
Say it so in his Vogue in his interview with Vogue he talked about this idea of and I’m trying to find the exact quote where him and his staff like him and his team at Balenciaga they play this game where I think it’s like make a look in 60
Seconds type of thing um and it’s kind of just like a fun thing that they do in in like their studio for example but then he said the last looks were a reference to that so the last looks were literally just looks that they threw
Together in like I’m not sure if it let me let me make sure I’m not misquoting I I’m not sure if it’s actually 60 seconds but I know it’s like a short amount of time um let me find it let me find it why can’t I find this
Qut um a is wild that that looks so weird to me yeah don’t know why I can’t find it wait let me let me see cuz I know it’s like in the Vogue article let’s see let’s see let’s see um ah so yeah to quote him he said we have
This one minute to create a dress challenge in the studio like project like Project Runway um so we were throwing things on the body and then taking pictures together it’s very playful um for me it’s actually this coexistence of both because that’s what makes us human now the imperfection the
Failure or the Miss I love the idea I think it’s beautiful that’s what differentiates us from the machines and so that’s why at the end you have like this mishmash of like just like 50 bras sewn together or like you know 50 bits of lingerie sewn together something that I did think was
Kind of interesting though he had this look that was three hoodies sewn together um and it was made to sort of like I think it was made to mimic like Blen yaga’s bubble dress which I guess it doesn’t have the volume like balenciaga’s bubble dress lit has volume
Going outward from the body like below the waist whereas it just has some sleeves sticking out I guess you can kind of reach and say that it’s it’s a reference to the Balenciaga bubble dress did you see the uh the dress that they designed for um Michelle Yao for the the
Oscars oh no I didn’t see that I I haven’t actually looked at all the Oscars looks I was quite I’m still behind on that they they were good this year um but he he did he did the look for Michelle Yao and apparently they he bought three Couture dresses that he
Found on eBay and pulled pulled them apart and then made one dress for her the the idea sounds cool but the dress is is not it’s it’s not flattering yeah yeah yeah yeah oh Micha wants to hop on yeah I think I’m just a bit jaded because obviously I’m coming off like
Reacting to the interview and obviously like Kathy horen and them just like him contradicting himself for like literally a good 30 minutes again um and I I actually I have some quotes from Kathy hen’s review that I actually wanted to critique um if I can actually find those
So okay so she said many designers are also showing suits in lightweight fabrics for a more draped and fluid look but again demna takes his suits further they appear to be almost liquefied on the body indeed not unlike super baggy jeans and cargos that remain popular
With young people now in a way that’s kind of a good point in terms of like if you’re making a collection that’s sort of a um inspired by the modern day clothing and kind of what people wear and a commentary on that and the fact that now everyone wears baggy clothes it
Makes sense that the clothing is just comically baggy it’s insane but then it fits so terribly that on the other hand you could just say it’s just horribly fitting clothing and there’s a difference between things being oversized and ill fitting and I think people don’t know that there’s a difference between that hello
Micah is he going to speak is he going going to uh is he muted is he not muted can’t hear you we can’t hear you yeah we still can’t hear you bro flexing with the sound off but the thing about demo is like one takeaway I took from that um um
Interview with Kathy horen is that he said once again that he doesn’t feel the same constraints when he designs his Ure he doesn’t feel that there’s any like commercial expectation so he feels like he can be free and I think that shows because I think I’ve loved every one of
His Kure collection I think they’re actually amazing and I think so it’s weird because in his cure collections he does the same idea again in terms of like I’m trying to modernize what Chris abaga is for 2024 or like I’m trying to kind of change the context of Chris bar
Balenciaga’s clothes so that’s why you’ll see like a hoodie but he the way he does the hoodie in Earth Couture collection makes sense in terms of like an idea of okay we’re trying to bring an idea of what Balenciaga is and the craft but with Silhouettes that you associate with you know modern
Days but then in ready to wear he just reduces it into nothingness I don’t and I don’t know why because it’s the same designer my thing is is if you’re a big fan of this brand and you’re buying you know because you like Dem demna and Balenciaga how many times can you buy
The same coat or the same hoodie the same baggy pant is why why do you why do you need all of that there has to be some type of of of I don’t know change up or something every season he is it’s not to me I’ve
Been bored I’ve been bored for a long time with with his with with this whole aesthetic like the whole Balenciaga aesthetic I think just needs to go away so and it’s it’s kind of funny because also even people that we say kind of have a design language that doesn’t
Change like rickes it’s not even necessarily true cuz Rick ens is more maybe he develops it by let’s say a few per every season let’s say 10% every season so by the time you look back 10 years you’re like oh it looks completely different um but demna genuinely has not developed the
Aesthetic or the silhouette at all okay mik I think you can hear you now can you hear me now yeah yeah yeah oh bro the chat said that Karen were bombing my internet I [Laughter] believe K King didn’t want you to spit yeah so now basically well I and I have
Checked about this collection off camera anyway and yeah I pretty much agree with most of the sentiments but what we were talking about in the chat that I was like oh I might as well just say on um on video is that Balenciaga seems to be one of few brands where like the
Commercial mass produced pieces that they put out seem to be doing very well right now so even though you can have one of these collections that like um if we’re talking about from like a technical um perspective and in terms of like uh the storytelling that you’re doing is not very
Interesting they’re in a weird place where are they still moving units so it’s minor type right right um especially where what I was saying do sorry sorry sorry to cut you off though but I wanted to like kind of to piggy back off what you’re saying do you think
That’s why demna is at odds with himself because like in the potentially potentially because they’re in a weird place where I said in the chat I think very few Brands reach this space where like they’ve pierced the zeit guys to the level that Balenciaga have where
Like think about when you and I first got into well I’ll speak for more for myself when I first got into fashion you’ve been into fashion a few years already like 2016 2017 people our age thought that Balenciaga was a joke we were like why are they making hoodies this big why are
They making jeans this big fast forward eight years those jeans are in other brands are replicating them you have jaded London uh Asos everyone wants the biggest baggiest jeans they can find that’s what’s trending throw itah blah blah and all of a sudden you have all these garments that we literally used to
Make fun of have L become the norm so you’re at this weird place where arguably the weakest Balenciaga collection that’s ever been shown under demna is at a time culturally so hot yeah I think what you’re saying though is is to do with the masses which obviously is fact
Because like the reason why people used to make fun of Bago at the time is um you would see like all these Essex boys wearing like skin tight skin jeans with Alexander McQueen like sneakers so that’s why anything baggy to them just look absolutely ridiculous which is why
Like people in the UK is to make fun of it all the time um but fashion people because the thing about when you enter fashion all the trends are all happening at once so like in past fasion week I saw some brands do skinny silouettes and
I saw like Brands like Baga do really Waggy things so everyone is always doing things at once so you’re never going to see something baggy or skinny at any point in time and be like oh my God that looks like uh shocking in a way um but I
Guess for like the everyday person especially like we can only speak for the UK because that’s what we know but that’s I think that’s why they and I’m thinking as I said that as well I was thinking about like at least in hip-hop American celebrity culture where like I
Really don’t think you can pull up a picture of any hip-hop artist right now where they’re not wearing balen in like time um and I don’t know I just think it’s it’s I was saying that I think we’re probably going to see at least three or four more years of demna and I
Think that’s purely because of what I describ of like well commercially the stuff is doing so well so even if me and Joe blogs and you don’t like the the runway collection that doesn’t change the fact that people are going to the stores and buying it everyone’s got oh yeah
100% so and it’s it’s the reason I was saying it’s odd as well is because well traditionally you know if it’s a whack Runway then the collection probably isn’t going to do well but we’re in this so my it will my thing is like it sells and it will sell well I
Think my thing is more because I’m critiquing demut as a designer himself demut literally in the Kathy horon interview like and everyone once again go watch it I keep saying go watch it he said and not I’m not quoting him directly because I can’t remember what he says I paraphrase um so disclaimer
Before demna sues me but um basically what he said was that he said that he feels like fashion like art in fashion and like design in fashion is like dead that there are only a few designers that actually care about uh like craft in fashion or care about
Like designing not just to design for product and for like things that will sell but just designing to push like fashion forward right and I’m like do you think that you’re one of the people like doing what you like do you think you’re one of those though no but
Is again with demna is such a weird one because I feel like every time I I sit down and read one of because often his interviews are written when I read a written interview from him or I watch one I’m like I can’t tell if he’s
Trolling or not at this point do you know what I mean because it’s like because it’s so it’s either it lacks so much self-awareness that it’s like oh clearly you’re missing like soci cues here or it’s like oh you you must just be trolling us because you’re describing yourself without describing yourself oh
It’s so strange that there are all these uh Antics and you know things on the runway we I’m not a big fan of that kind of stuff Meanwhile your last four years of runways have been like exactly that you know what I mean like just it’s always all his interviews are like that
I feel like at this point he said that nothing he does is marketing or a gimmick and then and please he he basically had a show on the Hollywood strip like you could see the Hollywood Sign cardi B was walking horribly on the runway he had Kim Kardashian
Basically everywhere to be seen the cameras were literally following her everywhere she went you had a collab with arow one like nothing you do is about marketing and gimmicks and like I’m not saying this is just coming from him once again it’s a brand they need to
Make money there’s a whole team like he said the merchandisers even in the Kathy horen interview he said that like he doesn’t feel free designing ready to wear and I can even see it like I see it because the ER Couture collections Sensational I’ve loved every single Couture collection he’s done um
Especially so I’m not saying yeah I’m not saying it’s all up to him but that being said what he says in the interviews is just like there’s just clearly a lack of self-awareness though do you think is a PR team that suggest him what to say or like what do you
Think’s happening where is this disconnect coming from yeah this is actually a what I think I think Dem is trying to too hard to be deep and insightful and just digs himself into a hole I definitely agree with that Des himself into a box at this point because
It because like you said Michael is is so successful commercially this is what everybody wants now this is what consumers want this is what the the Baga team wants so they all can make money demna is at this point is kind of held by the chains of of his own
Aesthetic maybe and then like you said like Couture is is his playground in a way to kind of do what he wants and that’s why they’ve all been really good interesting so do you think well I don’t know cuz before I was kind of under the impression that you know especially
Around the Scandal era that oh you know when people are saying oh maybe Demo’s going to get dropped blah blah blah blah but now that back I think it’s going to be like this for three or four more years that’s what I he makes too much
Money I don’t I can’t even see a time when demna is going to leave something bad would really have to happen make so much money terrible would have to happen well let’s pray for another Scandal I mean I mean if if you look at his collections on a product level
They’re also quite interesting because the Footwear there’s always some new like Footwear design that’s like cool and like people wear the bags are always like kind of wacky like in this uh collection they had like these bags that were Motocross gloves like motorcycling gloves made into bags um so all those
Kind of like ideas so from a product level there’s always like that piece that you can kind of pick out of the collection um but all in all he literally at this point is saying the same thing just in a million different ways uh like three different
Ways by a million different ways I don’t mean the clothes I mean by what he says um the clothes look exactly the same I just mean in terms of what he says about it is kind of he explains it differently um so for example the LA one the ER one
Collection was basically a reference and almost like a a study on La culture and like modern like online culture and kind of like people’s obsession with celebrity and consumerism this one is about consumerism secondhand clothing kind of like that that sometimes it’s like in in fact this collection is
Actually way more akin to event collection that he did actually that was about the one that had like the Internet Explorer logo and that sort of stuff cuz there those similar flips and ideas when he’s talking about uh eBay and he even had like eBay flips in his collection for example
Um when the contract of demo I I don’t know but they’re definitely renewing that contract he makes too much money let that be my biggest problem in knife right you think he’s he’s crying at the design table when he has to make hoodies No oh my God I want to see some of these pieces up close I mean there’s cool there’s cool stuff I mean everything is in the show notes anyway like this was kind of fun it’s like sequins everywhere and what he did was obviously this shape is a very
Balenciaga shape but these are actually shoulder pads put into the dress so it kind of creates this wacky shape which is kind of like a flip on like yes it’s a Balenciaga shape but done in a different way that’s really interesting and cool um the visors that everyone’s
Talking about these sunglass that was the best look to me that dress is is pretty incredible yeah yeah I like that dress um this piece is not for me but everyone keeps talking about and that’s the thing about show notes I think people just get like gassed up by show notes because in
Show notes I think it says it has some like resin treatment oh um and like even Kathy horen was acting like he literally did some like revolutionary thing they just treated it with like resin and then basically like did a few things to it so that the texture is slightly different
To like normal faux far that’s all like they made it like it’s like they just made it seem like oh my God they like resin treated this like coat and it was like it’s like it’s not that serious it’s so ratty yeah so all there CS kind of have the same
Idea um okay yeah this is the whole like Incognito beanie kind of like you can’t see my eyes but I can see you you think I can’t see you but I actually can yeah so so do you know what I love about demna fans um kind of like to respond to this comment
So I love it because I’m going to clip this uh video and and I’m going to get so much hate cuz like you don’t understand it and then they’re going to regurgitate the the show notes for me like they’re literally not available online and like they’re going to be like
You don’t get it like he was doing Frozen drape dresses it’s like yeah that’s just a description of what the dress is on the show notes like it’s Not and they start trying to make it deep but it’s cool though I think it’s cool that a designer like demna has a really cult following I think it’s kind of cool it’s it’s kind of I’m trying to think of other designers that have that kind of following maybe like ADI slimo
Maybe Phoebe Pho um yoi definitely has a super cult following Yoji has like a cult following like that Raya Kubo does yeah there’s like a few of them miucha fans have given up hon her really no no way I was like what M the mea girls are the m girls like
They I feel like me Product could commit murder and they still love her yeah it’s quite it’s quite interesting it’s just weird cuz dem’s earlier work was so interesting I’m not even talking about V like even Bago like and the themes and ideas were so different um so like one collection
Especially like one of my favorite collections of his was that like Parliament collection that like the blue set um also I think that was around the time that the UK did brexit or like we announced brexit or something so the timing of it was amazing and obviously that was like EU blue
The set and then it was kind of like this idea the whole theme of The Collection was this idea of like power dressing and the idea of like the politician and dressing a certain way and how you dress it determines like how you’re seen by society which was so cool
Because um actually let let me go let me go through that colle because this collection is actually boring me um yeah as a cuz just to just to go to that collection um um like what made it so interesting actually you you had it it’s a spring yeah it’s
202020 so what was so interesting also I’m not sure cuz they normally have the beauty looks um so yeah kind of like this stuff they had this like weird ass makeup this like stuff here like at the cheekbones uh which was like a commentary on and I think he touches on
That again in the interview um kind of like this idea of like plastic surgery and the fact that um kind of because this collection is about power dressing and politicians and politics and about how you’re perceived by the way you dress is this idea of you know people changing things about themselves getting
Botox and getting plastic surgery uh to change how people perceive them and so he had some interesting AR themes and that’s why this is so like tailoring heavy even down to like the tags right that they’re wearing it’s supposed to look like you know the tag of like
Someone that ushers people into like Parliament and stuff it’s so interesting and it’s like how do you go from that to talking about consumerism and like a commentary on consumerism and capitalism like how many seasons in a row like it was so interesting like start I’m guessing maybe because I I don’t
Know how this collection did you know in the stores but because it was so tailoring heavy maybe it didn’t sell that hard and so they went back to hoodies I don’t know because this I I do love this collection it’s just so interesting like concept wise clothing wise theme wise
And this is when it was just yeah all about the shapes and the tailoring and stuff even when they had like the puffer jackets or stuff it’s always like some really like interesting ass like flipping [ __ ] it’s like some weird boots that were like yeah yeah he was like actually like this is
Innovative this is like cuz when he started at Baga his wholeo was okay I’m not going to copy chrisal because no one can be chrisal which fair enough but what I’m going to do is I’m going to reimagine the ethos of chrystall for a modern customer and so having these kind of
Like puffer jackets which obviously Chris B would never design a puffer jacket because it was just not a thing that people around him used to wear um but then adding this sort of like weird shapes and weird tailoring and like cuning yourself in a way it’s just so in
And like all of that is just so lost now in the modern collections it’s just so so lost and it’s really sad it’s like really upsetting I think this collection was too was too Chic for the consumer it was but then does it matter though because obviously most people don’t
Really buy The Runaway pieces and Balenciaga will always have their permanent collection just like oversized hoodies anyway yeah that’s true so I always wonder I always wonder with with those things I Peak down the streets won’t forget no but it was just like and it’s not
Even just his collection by the way it’s like let me let me scroll through like some of his other collections too I don’t want it to seem like I’m I I feel like sometimes it comes across like a mamna hater it’s not that it’s just to
Do with like he hasn’t developed and I think he’s saying the same thing and he’s contradicting himself which is leading me to believe that like he kind of knows what he’s doing but he’s trying his best to like mask it with words but then ends up contradicting himself
Um yeah where do I even start like all these collections were interesting that was the climate change one um this first four Men’s Wear was really this was the like Martin rose that was like the Triple S and like yeah they had the the motocross boots these like motorcycling
Boots um like tailoring wise like Master Class like even bringing Chris bublin Iago shapes ENT tailoring two men’s wear and also why this actually why this collection was so iconic was it was at a time when Men’s Wear was actually a bit dry from like a silhouette standpoint it
Was like everyone was just doing like suits but suits that had no interesting shape it was almost like Men’s Wear was an afterthought this was when I was like um this was around you know the Prada rash Simmons like oh what is he going to do with the men’s wear type of
Conversation um and so demna actually brought men’s wear that has interesting shapes like tailored in interesting ways even this puffer jacket too I love it because it’s like the the c-shaped sort of blena puffer jacket um and then that was funny the whole Bernie Sanders campaign
Thing it’s just like yeah how do you go from like this to like but like you said maybe it is too to she maybe it’s not it’s not street street wear enough which is weird though cuz I think of this as like super ultra wearable but but then again maybe it’s
Not because maybe I’m just like yeah but it’s just a coat or whatever then maybe most people don’t like maybe the the Silhouettes are almost too like much for them like maybe it’s looks too comical in a way I think this collection too is when people still weren’t wearing as at
Least men’s they weren’t wearing Balenciaga clothes it was the trip s that caught on and then I think started wearing the hoodies and the pants and everything from there from this collection right like all the sh it’s just I’m trying to let me see where for me it
Just really started to fall apart I think it was from even this collection was like spring 7 23 was starting to fall apart a bit Yeah like clothing wise concept and set as always amazing I think the one for me that that I remember when they
Had that big painted rock it was like a was it a that was um that was I know what show you’re talking about that was I think this one full into 28 2018 that was the first one I remember hating I was I did not like that
Collection yeah I I did like the collections that came after it though mhm so but I think from that like actually yeah the controversy collection and I’m not just saying it because that was the collection that had the controversy that collection in particular I think actually was
Like where it started to be this whole okay yeah the same idea the same ideals I think this was the collection where they had that like all those like meme things like the seven layer Parker and stuff like that right yeah that was where that idea because obviously the show we just saw
Has this same idea of like you know clothes hanging on your neck like a jacket but as a necklace sort of idea seven layers but aart yeah like this sort of stuff um oh my god let’s like run through this quickly but yeah it’s kind
Of I don’t know I I love them and like I said his Ure is also really great um but I just I just like I don’t know how anyone can genuinely look at this collection people genuinely were trying to tell me that I don’t understand that
It’s a commentary on La culture like I didn’t just say that in my review like it isn’t obvious like there isn’t a Hollywood sign back there but no one can look at can literally say that this collection is like revolutionary or like pushing fashion forward in anyway this is quite literally product I
Think if your FR of reference is small then you won’t know that what you know what else to look for to know that this is not it so but I think a lot of his fans come come at it with you know uh you know not not a small knowledge about Balenciaga
Or or you know the brand the way it was before during you know and it’s like cuz he always does this thing where even when he does like the ultra commercial collections the last few looks will be like these really interesting um well-crafted like dresses and stuff
Um and it’s quite I don’t know why he does it that way it’s like just so you know it’s not all commercial here’s a here’s a dress but I I genuinely till till the day I die I will never get over the fact that we literally saw Spandex and like
Lululemon a Lululemon collection in form of Baga like that is insane there is no craft like about craft there is absolutely no like just look at this it’s literally even the same Fab even the lining is the same as a Lulu Lemon peas it’s the same fabric there if we’re
Going to talk about craft there is absolutely categorically no craft that goes into making that so when demna once again and this is I think why I have an issue with when he does the interviews when he says to Kathy horen that he feels like there’s the death of you know
Art in fashion and it’s almost like the death of you know designers that really care to make fashion and push fashion forward and innovate but then you simultaneously put this on and that’s why it’s just hard to really you add yeah how do you contextualize the critiques he’s
Making when sometimes he backtracks on that exact same critique because he feels that odds doing what he’s doing if I were him I wouldn’t say anything or just just just talk about the clothes you don’t have to have a concept for everything because then everybody can just go back and just see that
You’re bullshitting hey you just don’t get it bro too deep too deep for you bro to your IQ is too low to understand Dali’s World bro your IQ is lacking but yeah it’s it’s it’s insane it’s honestly insane but like it’s product standpoint it’s always going to sell CU I think
Product it’s just good product like even when I go on an Instagram it’s just like the the perfect like group of product it’s just like like look at it it’s just like perfect is this the three hoodie dress yeah this is the the three hoodie three hoodie
Dress yeah this is the uh motorcross glove oh they actually collaborated with alpine Stars that’s interesting cuz I’m getting into like riding motorbikes now so it’s like I’m going to be that purist like you you don’t make motorcycle bags unless you ride like gatekeeping like motorcycling yeah I
Know but it’s just Pro it’s just product it’s literally just those those C shoes are so ugly and I know people are still going to wear them I can’t lie I love them I think it’s just weird the steroid boot they’re crazy what I love these though they’re
The kind of things that like I take a free kick in yeah and score like crazy goals to be fair I do like weird stuff cuz it’s Innovative so the footwork I actually don’t have anything to like bad to say about the Footwear even though
Some of it is ultra wacky it’s new yeah I like it they’re trying new things they’re throwing seeing what works I kind of like that that’s very opposite to like the clothing um and I think it’s very hard cuz Footwear is so complicated and difficult to design anyway so it’s a constantly
Every single season come up with new Footwear designs is very impressive once again I don’t know exactly who the Footwear designer is like let me Google Google it who designed the Balenciaga Trip s okay so David tonier Bal uh man who’s created shoes for likes of Mella Joni who frequently works with
Balenciaga so he made a trip so maybe he like does all the designs for the brand um but shout out to him because yeah once again I think people always think it’s demna that designs all these things and it’s like he might help you know Steer kind of where it
Goes but there’s like a creative mind who’s like making all this Footwear and like all the accessories too yeah it’s just product after it’s like I feel like I’m going it’s like a thrift store which is kind of kind of cool in way spicy chili what the hell yeah it’s
A bag it’s a bag remember said he doesn’t do anything that’s gimmicky remember nothing he does is a gimmick that’s what he said that’s what he said Yik so many products so many SKS so many SKS I love this mall passport wallet and it’s it’s cool
Like it’s actually really fun I know cuz demna is actually a hilarious guy I’ll give him the credit like even the interview uh with Kathy horen I was laughing at points because he’s actually quite a funny guy like genuinely and I think he tries to bring that sense of
Humor to um valenciaga and I think it does actually work sometimes um kind of like this whole okay Balenciaga passport it’s like yeah it’s like because all everything he does is just all a com a commentary on like contemporary living right so that’s why you’d have a bag
That’s a passport or like a Cheeto bag that’s a bad is it like it makes sense but that’s also a gimmick you have to also say that yes it’s a gimmick it’s gimmicky it’s funny it’s fun but it’s also gimmicky I wonder how many actual motorcyclists wear the cuz this actually
Looks like it’s functional it’s got the the ankle protection it doesn’t have Shin protection though which depending on what kind of motorcycling you do You’ need some okay this this looks more substantial it’s even got the right fabric like it looks abrasion proof interesting like product wise I think
They make cool stuff I just think cohesively as you know a designer that creates Collections and stuff it just isn’t fantastic but yeah those are basically my thoughts on uh Balenciaga if anyone has any questions before I uh I dip to my bed I’ll be very open to answering any last
Questions M said it’s my bedtime yeah it’s almost 2: a.m. damn literally almost 2: a.m. it’s 9:45 here I know things I do for Americans eh thank you cuz my problem is if I if I live stream on my evening like 67 it’s going to be like
21 in like the US and people will be at work and stuff so I have to stream late people I watch Like UK people I watch stream even later like one of the guys I watch a he’s like a UK guy that streams he streams at like 3:00 a.m. like he
Starts streams at like 3:00 a.m. I’m like I don’t know how you do it but I understand damn but no how do you feel about the uh um are you going to do another series for Paris oh yeah yeah yeah of course of course what other shows are you gonna
Cover oh let me actually get my phone CU I have just BR I cuz I like to do like three brands per stream just so you can like really delve into each brand I feel like if there’s more I’ll end up like rushing through them and then not really talking about it yeah
Um let’s see Paris Fashion Week Paris Fashion Week okay so on my list I have uh Louis Vuitton obviously because that uh Nicholas G like 10 years uh anista kind of interesting Vivian Westwood was kind of interesting because just like everyone was talking about it um ch holding holding a stick looking like
A a human a human wit you’ve got CH of course because of the debut collection um scaar ready was interesting because it was the most commercial collection I’ve ever seen from scaparelli as the most like paired back collection ever it’s almost like scaparelli version of quite luxury so
That I thought would be interesting to talk about um mium meu I want to talk about meu um Sakai because I I like went to the show and I really loved it I thought it was really good um and I also wanted to talk about junor Wan Bay so I have those
Written down I have some that I’ve parked so H cover is like one I’ve parked I’ve parked like Stella McCartney um C Stella McCartney I think was actually stronger than a Stella McCartney show I’ve seen in a very long time oh D um who else do I have pared cuz the
Parked brands are based on if like I have more time before the next season um mug glare is there a lot of people like the mug glare show that was like big Um let’s see what else is on my list I put cassablanca also because I went to the show um so yeah the fashion YouTube has been taken over with hes and commentary essays I kind of feel like we’re we’re in the era of like yeah video essays so everyone’s like making video essays
About different things um uh can you briefly talk about price point versus fabric I view a beautiful Dior cream dress jacket made of polyester over 5K so it really really depends I think um first of all every fabric has a grade so there’s bad quality cotton there’s good quality
Cotton um and a lot so a big misconception is a lot of people think that uh good quality cotton is based on like the ounce or like how thick it is which actually isn’t true it’s about the way Fabrics are like woven that’s what determines the quality so just because
Something is thicker and heavier doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better it just means it’s thicker and heavier which means it’s more conducive to wearing in let’s say cold weather um so like a good reason why let’s say Japanese denim is so good is because they use these like old weaving
Machines where they weave the yarn so tightly that the quality of the denim is like exceptional and that’s what they do with other Fabrics too which is why like Japan is like amazing quality wise right so same thing with I’m just saying all of that to say that even with polyester
For example is M developed a certain type of polyester that he like presses to make pleat um and that is actually really high quality polyester like those pieces they don’t run color they don’t um share micr Plastics they’re easily foldable that they also last an extremely long time they can be washed
Over and over and over again the shape doesn’t change but then if you use like a lowquality polyester then it could so it depends is there’s no like one size fits all if I see the jacket then I could tell you because what if Dior develop Ved that specific polyester then
It wouldn’t it might obviously it doesn’t warrant 5K because luxury is luxury it’s never worth the price but just because I think there is this misconception that oh it’s polyester it shouldn’t be expensive which I don’t necessarily agree with I think it depends on what type of polyester have
They developed a new Fabric in a different way because like for example OA is literally polyester but it’s like not the kind of polyester that we associate with polyester so I think it it depends yeah exactly all Fabrics have negatives they also have positives like every fabric has like a pros and con
Like polyester is like for example stretchy um so it’s like comfortable to wear in certain instances especially if you make the right polyester um if you make bad polyester it itches your skin it’s the sexy polyester uh you went to shows and saw clients how
Was it to see clients at shows oh yeah so brief kind of story I guess um so this season I went to P Fashion Week With threads um so with like meta um which is kind of fun um because I was like posting on threads and like
Learning how to use a platform on the Fly and stuff which is kind of cool um so that’s kind of why I was there and they kind of helped facilitate like me getting into the Reese’s and the shows and stuff so that’s how I got into like Lou vitton
And like the bigger shows was through them like xon and stuff um so yeah that was that was kind of cool it was like a cool experience I mean I’ve gone to I go to Fashion Week all the time I just have to have a reason to so some Seasons um
Like in the past I’ve written for Vogue Runway so that’s why I was there um this season it was like with threads if I don’t have a reason to go I won’t go because like I don’t have money to just like pay for a hotel to just be staying
In Paris aimlessly just to like do up lifestyle that’s like a waste of my time and money um but it’s fun it’s fun when I do get to go though this was probably like your your biggest Paris fashion week as far as like the level of shows you got to
Attend right oh 100% yeah definitely definitely definitely like the biggest one oh my God so funny story about Bernard aror right so I actually stood right beside Bernard arnor in Paris so I um they had the showroom for the lvmh prior so it was just a showroom for all the
Semi-finalists and all the like designers were there and like everyone went to see the collections essentially and then Bernard no was like literally going around talking to each designer so at the time I was with Hanan and we were talking to uh the guys at like who
Deserves war or who decides War sorry yeah who decides War um and then Bernard and all just came and then we were just like okay we’re just going to leave now cuz Bernard is here and obviously he’s the important person so but it’s so weird because like he’s so soft spoken I
Didn’t expect him to be that soft spoken in person and then I didn’t even want to get anywhere close to him because he had these a massive like these massive um like bodyguards and they look like if you went like five centimeters close to Berard they would fold you into like
Damn into a sandwich it literally they were huge I was like oh my God yeah it’s time for me to take my leave um is giving us foreign policy who deserves War yeah that was like uh tongue twister who decides oh yeah yeah I bet he smells like The Souls of
Interns oh my god oh I was fascinated to learn that Visos is breathable and can be used as a silk substitute um yeah yeah so that’s what I mean like even for example Visos is one of those Fabrics that like people say oh Visos it shouldn’t be expensive it
Depends once again cuz I know that Phoebe Pho for example in a lot of her recent stuff she’s using Visos um but I think because she wants it to have that relative like ease of like it being breathable but still being CU a lot of her stuff is like heavy tailored
Coats um so how she makes it conducive for like warmer weather is by using things like visco so once again it depend like the whole fabric thing is really complicated I study chemical engineering so for me like I literally studied Material Science so I have an understanding of fabrics that most
People won’t so for me it’s just let me go and feel the fabric and actually see what exactly it is but yeah it’s complicated is my like answer to all of that I’m from Florida so I love Visos like I I need so any designer that that has Visos
Related items I usually gravitate toward yeah cuz it needs to be breathable it’s like it’s even um cuz people always assume it’s like they they’ll like both and be like my cotton is like 200 GSM I was like you do know that’s just the weight it doesn’t mean they’re like it’s
So thick it’s so high quality it’s like not necessarily if it was woven like [ __ ] it might be heavy because it’s more fabric but it’s you’re going to have a hole in it not too long from now I just want to chill and drink from coconuts
I think also in context of me like being so close to Bernard it’s funny because we kind of locked eyes and I I was like gave him that like cordial smile and then he smiled back at me and in the back of my head I was just thinking oh
My God if only he knew what I say about him on my channel he would have kicked me out of the event because it’s LV M event so he was well within his rights to be like you out out he’s watching right now he’s watching right now that’s who allowed this man into
This event no I always make jokes at Bernard’s expense because it’s just funny I like making fun of people also that people think are Untouchable because they’re not like Anna winter I think people actually genuinely believe that like Anna winter if they speak bad on Anna winto that she’s going to like
Cancel their careers it’s like Anna winto doesn’t have that power she doesn’t control YouTube she doesn’t control social media like G of the days why Vogue has a monopoly on like who can talk about fash right um so yeah it’s just people are very scared so that’s why I find it really
Funny said the richest man in the world smiled at you crazy oh my God yeah that was just crazy story it’s just weird it’s just actually so weird that like cuz I didn’t even know when he entered I was literally just talking to the designers and then I just looked to my
Left cuz there was like loads of noise so I looked to my left and I just saw three huge guys and then Bernard no in like the middle like it’s like what’s going on it’s like oh yeah this is the lvm Mi priers like showroom so of course
He’s here I think if I were to see Bernard no without security out somewhere I don’t even think I’d realize it was him because he just looks so mean he’s kind of he’s yeah he’s lowkey though so it’s not like his security don’t stand right beside him
They just stand at points so it actually kind of looks dep depending on what angle you look at it looks like he’s just there alone until you go close to him and then all of a sudden these like massive guys appear from nowhere um I think they actually wanted to give him
The space so the designers don’t feel like you know their space is being invaded by these like huge security guards yeah his suits are amazing to be fair his impeccable suits his suit was looking sharp I mean when you’re that rich I mean you can literally go to the best
Tayor I mean geez he owns Dior factories and stuff so of course his suit he owns tayor I’m sureit somebody that stays with him all the time he could literally just call one of his designers please can you make me a suit exactly that like the Dior stuff is
Like he could just literally go to the atellier and just give him the measurements and be like yeah make me a custom piece that’s probably why Maria gracy’s been there so long she’s the one that’s actually tailoring the suits yeah personally wait when you say he wears
Theor it can’t be off the rack there’s no way he wears the O off the rack that is not that’s just not possible cuz they don’t even make suits in the style that he he wears classic traditional suits like Kim Jones is not making stuff that looks like that it must be custom
Maybe it’s like similar but it it’s definitely all custom because it’s not even stuffed that’s on the runway really her pull up on pcks let’s see Bernard all style quiet luxury let’s see what he wears he just wears the same ass like he likes a navy
Suit doesn’t he when I saw him he was wearing a navy suit yeah it’s like this sort of stuff right kind of like classic just navy suit even his like kids have adopted the same thing not Bernie [Laughter] Arnold yeah what he wears is Ultra Classic so it’s not like any of this
Stuff is ever on a Runway so it’s like even if it is Dior it’s all custom which it’s not hard to make how hard is it to just go to the Tellier of like literally skilled Artisans and be like oh just make me a basic ass like suit these
People are used to making the most outlandish things like making patterns that don’t even make sense and then he’s like oh just make me like a a suit I’m sure every lvmh house that makes suiting has his measurements oh yeah of Course like today I want suit make it in Navy the usual me m right his son is the spitting image of him literally literally it’s almost scary I need Bard all to do a what’s in my closet yeah that’s never going to happen never that’s just not he doesn’t have a
Closet that’s that’s not a closet his closet is Navy suits I’m very sure he has like 50 on some like Steve’s job [ __ ] oh my God mad skeletons right a car closet he has a car closet for [Laughter] sure imagine if Berard switches up one year and does hella Vogue and complex
Interviews that would be insane that would actually be insane but I don’t think Bernard can do interviews because well it depends on which journalist because most journalists will ask him question questions that are too he wouldn’t want to answer and then it just won’t become an interview just he won’t
He’ll be like no comment his closet is his second guest House oh yeah he did do the Oxford Union that’s true he did he did I watched that I remember watching that he did do that but then that’s different that’s not an that’s Oxford Union everyone does at Oxford it’s like prestigious like you go and speak at
Oxford it’s a bit that’s more up his alley it’s like very like upper class you know it’s very Oxford Oxford University where all the politicians go all his friends now they all probably went to Oxford too if he has any friends from the UK that are in politics
Okay but anyway it’s kind of fun doing this I think uh I’m going to take my leave thank you very much son of a guns for making your famous return thank you for having me of course um but yeah this is really fun and also the first time I’ve uh live
Streamed on YouTube and twitch at the same time so we’ll see if anyone from twitch was actually watching um but yeah thank you guys very much and I’ll see you guys probably in the next stream on the next video whenever that happens who knows take care peace
10 Comments
They should have cut all those ugly suit looks. I’m sorry but…they should have giving him more time to adjust and get into the flow before having him do a show. It was very disappointing.
25:05 shareholders don't let designers develop.
Plain simple imho: The guy for McQueen did not have any storytelling… sorry but to me McQueen is all about story. I’m no fashion designer but even I understand that McQueen fashion was not cheerful lol
I have read a lot about this collection. I watched it live and thought something was not right.
No one new into this design house can pull off the first collection. Pretty impossible task.
If this is the path Séan wants to go, he should come back and show in London, if he wants that East End vibe. You will never create this is Paris.
I also have come to the conclusion that Kering should close this house down as it can never be what people want it to be, without insulting it's memory. Even Lee said in an interview that he would burn it down. So many houses just plodding on with no direction. I thought Riccardo Tisci or Olivier Theyskens would have been a stronger fit.
He’s from Stratford
Its quite sad to see this collection, it further reiterates what many have said, these capitalists (Arnault and Pinault etc) are ruining fashion! Off topic, but related… Same thing is happening to Boeing, the planes are falling apart because we have business graduates running the company, instead of engineers and pilots. What happens when all you care about is the bottom line, profits, sales – the passion, the quality falls by the wayside
Amazing casting at Givenchy! Love seeing gorgeous black models on the runway 🤎
1:57 yup exactly me
i hated Balenciaga when Demna became Creative Director, but just look at the infuence he has had on fashion. Many of the seasonal trends have been influenced by the brand for the past five years. Other brands copying the Balenciaga silhouette and are still doing it. It is a desirable Brand. When I go on the online store I want to buy the clothes. He makes brands like Chanel and Dior passe. I now like the brand and hate what is going on at Vouis Vuitton.
CORRECTION! Alexander McQueen was born in lewisham but later relocated to Stratford. The greater point of what I was saying still stands (as someone that grew up in a similar part of London as McQueen and was born in the exact same place – I couldn't see that Sean McGirr was accurately depicting the east end. There is nothing happy go lucky or glamorous about it, especially not when I was growing up and that's one of the exact reasons why McQueen's references to his life a lot of the time came from a place of anger or frustration.)